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Great video, very well done. I have a 2004 F150 5.4l that will not send power to the relay powering the AC coil. When applying 12 volts to the relay all is well and the system does a great job of cooling and the pressures are right where they should be according to the various charts for temp and humidity levels. How do I prove the issue is the PMC? Or should I be looking in a different direction.
Hey my guy, I'm trying to program a USED Abs module into an 07 sport trac. I've done it with both an autel and FMP, still get a code 2477 for configuration. Have been told that for this particular module (7a2z2c219e) that the old data can not be over written and I am just wasting my time (repeatedly). Hoping you can confirm this. Many thanks
I once overcharged the ac in my car causing it to cycle on and of really fast when I started to accelerate. I could feel the car shuttering from it. Took some refrigerant out and it worked fine again
I was taught this by a HVAC tech. He told me under charge and over charge will trip the pressure switches. I vacuumed down my cooling system and charged it after I was having problems. He pulled out almost an extra pound.
Good video. This is why I ended up buying a 30 lb tank of refrigerant and a weight scale so that I can put the correct amount in. I would love to have a charging station like you have but I'm just a DIY'er that fixes my vehicles and some of my friends and can't justify having one. I used to use the cans and a can tap and it was hard to put the correct amount in. I taught myself how to do AC repair work back in 2006 by reading AC repair books and by researching on the internet. Bought the correct gauges, vacuum pump, and other tools and have successfully fixed about 15 vehicles over the years. I also got my 609 cert so I could buy R12 which I still run in one of my older vehicles.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 I bought a mostly full 50 lb tank of R12 probably about 10 years ago or so for about $250. I still use it in my 92 Chevy Cavalier.
Hmm that's interesting, I was expecting the high side pressure to increase more dramatically from such a significant overcharge. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
The symptoms you show can also be caused by defective engine cooling fan or dirty condenser fins. Best way to tell if a system is over or under charged is to check pressure without starting the engine with the engine temp at ambient. High and low pressure will be equal. Pressure in PSI should be very close to ambient temp in F. There are charts available in the shop manual for this test. Retired Ford Engineer with 51 years experience fixing Ford, Mazda, Volvo and JLR vehicles in 46 different countries.
@@brucewayne-ej3cx Keep the high side gauge valve closed anytime you are running the engine with the A/C on. The reason is if the A/C is on, the compressor would be pressurizing the Freon supply tank which can be very dangerous. The supply tank could explode.
@@parolajd I'm glad you told me this. Lol it's a bit late tho I did it the wrong way it worked out thank God. It did seem a little sketchy but it worked. Next time I'll do it right.
@ John Parola You should make a diy video for fords. I've always had fords along with their issues. And fix the majority of the problems myself if at all possible. This Ac compressor/ system diagnosis / fix is one I'll probably end up having a shop fix as I do not have all of the tools.
@@parolajdif the pressures aren’t equal at ambient temperature and cold engine at rest ,what this could mean Sir ( probably some obstruction, the temperature in the vents goes down to 34-36 F by the pyrometer ) ? The ambient temperature 80.7 degree F by the pyrometer and 81 F by regular wall thermometer. High side pressure is 100psi and low side pressure is 80 psi static on cold engine . All pressures are taken from the black scales in psi of the gauges. Even reversed the gauges to see if they measure properly and they are correct . The pressure- temperature chart for r134a says the pressure need to be 86.7psi at 80degrees F and 88.4 psi at 81 degrees F .
Converting the low side pressure to evaporator temperature is a great tool to help visualize why the air coming out of the vents is warmer. Initially your evaporator temp was 44 degrees. Afterwards it was 58 degrees. Obviously the 58 degree coil won't cool as well. BUT, don't confuse that with undercharging a system, i.e low suction pressure. As he points out tho', more doesn't mean better. Great video.
Thank you a lot for this video! Finally got my ac system working right and barely overcharged it. Your video helped me fix it amongst forums & ac psi specs that were confusing Thanks to the experienced commenters too!
When properly charged, weak compressor will give them same symptoms. It's hard to suck than to push and you need a good pressure drop to boil off in the evaporator.
Those auto parts quick charge don't come with fancy machine like you got, you got to depend on the analogue gauge, I guess was not paying attention to quantity , just opened it all the way, so my Honda Civic was not getting cold like to should, After watching this video, I am pretty sure I overcharged it, So i had to let some out at low side at the schrader valve , I would let some out and keep checking, saw my temp gauge starting to come down, got it down to 40 , Worked like a charm, I was going to take my civic to a shop, Glad I saw your video, Thank you Mr Brian
Thank you so much, very helpful information. I had over charged my ac after changing out an AC Condenser and it wasn't getting cold. The compressor kept turning on and off, I adjusted the amount of freon and its working fine now.
I have a 2011 F250 that I bought used in 2018. I never had any AC problems and I've never added any refrigerant. Recently it quit cooling. If I put it on max cool it will eventually come on after 10 or so miles of continuous driving. I thought maybe it needed charging so I bought a can of refrigerant and connected it to the low pressure side. I DIDN'T ADD ANY REFRIGERANT, but the gauge read nearly 90. The ambient temperature was about 78 degrees F.
But more is better! Good demo. Whenever I see those MONSTER 20oz or more "AC pro" cans in the parts stores I wonder how many people have dumped those into good systems. Heck, newer vehicles are full at 16oz sometimes.
@Mustang Ricer6589 Not out of reach in some places, they have the small cans ready for sale at places around me. Still $$$ but it will come down in price.
Or they buy it because it says, With Stop Leak. I’ve been doing this for 40 years, there’s no such thing as a stop leak for A/C systems, only destruction.
I have 2013 f150 that was blowing cool but thought it could be colder so I used one of those cans. Now when I turn on my ac the fan goes to high speed. I'm guessing it is doing this because it is over charged? Would it be best to drain it all and just have it recharged?
You should make a video showing how to tune the system for optimal cooling, in the dead of heat. I find that recharging to spec, and removing tenths at a time, yields some pretty impressive results. It's not a free lunch however, you sacrifice optimal output at lower temps, and make compressor cycling duty load higher. I've used other gasses other than r134a in my personal systems, and have achieved great results for super cheap.
I've always wondered if there was someone else out there that does that!! I do the same thing. I've never recharged and stopped at spec. I've always gotten really cold air conditioners from just playing with the freon level. Mine have always been coldest with less freon than spec. Is that what you've seen over the years?
@@TheVenom8343 and under charge can make it cooler. I know that in residential systems the evap coil will freeze over if the system is under charged and air will stop passing through the coil. Another issue with low charge is that you will increase compressor cycling which may decrease your fuel economy on the car and increase compressor wear.
@@pibblesnbits Yeah, it freezes up. But I throw it over to "vent" and she's thawed in 30 seconds or so. I choose to do that because my A/C will blow 28 degrees F and boy that's nice down here in hot ass MS!! Lol
I'm in MS as well. My 2014 will only blow 60 degrees out the vents. I changed the expansion valve today and same thing. What kind of freon are you using? I put 2 12 oz can which is 24 oz which is what the sticker says. My gauges read 25-30 and 15-200. So I added a extra can. Pressure went up 30/200. Temp gauge dropped to 58 or so degrees. What are your Pressure readings?what part of MS are you in?
I was able to change both high/low standard schrader valve cores that were leaking w/o losing additional refrigerant on my 90s Honda. Thank you Mastercool!
@@jasonmorris2813 The tool has a built in ball valve controlled by a lever preventing the discharge of refrigerant and another part of the tool unscrews and removes the valve core aided by pressure from the system. It's a clever device using a simple procedure for removal and replacement. Sometimes they don't always work on the first try. They also make them for home A/C condenser units. Same process.
My truck’s low side pressure is too high. Freon is good and no leaks but it is not cooling. The mechanic said there is restriction and that I need to change the compressor and accumulator. The compressor is working it is just not cooling. What is your opinion on that?
I LOVE THE VIDEOS, FRIEND, THANKS FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE. YOU ARE THE BEST !!!! (Sorry, I don't speak English.) ME ENCANTAN TUS VIDEOS AMIGO, GRACIAS POR TUS CONOCIMIENTOS. ERES EL MEJOR!!!!
I had a garage service my working air con come back not working they said my compressor is bad. It would turn on for a second make a very bad noise turn off. I hooked up my own air con gauge. The low side was on 100 psi WTF they overfilled it. We got it back down to 35psi. Works perfect now no noise ice cold. Dont know if any long term damage but right now its good. Makes it worse my work boss owns the garage lmao. I told him your guys nearly destroyed my air con. They are in the shit. lucky for them it was my car not another customer. Would have cost him.
The other issue people don't understand well is how dramatically ambient temperature will change absolute gas pressures. Never interpret pressure readings without adjusting for ambient temp.
Is there any concern with potential oil added with those DIY cans? We did a can, pulled .9 oz oil, but didn’t bother adding any PAG after the recharge...the can only indicates 5-15% PGME of a 20oz can...compressor ok with the added oil? I just love the ‘propriety’ mix along with the concentrations are ‘trade secret’ according to their MSDS.
Perfect timing. I just recharged my 2006 Navigator yesterday, and by the looks of it I'm undercharged. System holds 58 ozs, and I added 4 12oz cans. System works great though, both front and rear A/C systems are blowing cold air. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video, its very easy to overcharge/undercharge with those r134a cans if not checking specified pressures under the A/C performance test procedures for that vehicle (Ambient temp, max heat load, stated engine RPM, out of direct sunlight).
Question? Why would I have ice cold AC at idle but when on the highway it warms up and not as cold? At idle I am showing 38-40 degrees and on highway showing 55-60? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
@@ed4709 If its goes back to blowing cold again when you come to a stop, (Without needing to bump the a/c clutch) its likely an undercharged a/c system.
After watching your other videos, I went with the little otc bottle and added it until the compressor stopped short cycling. I ran it for about 15 minutes and my windows started picking up condensation outside. I know I have a slow leak somewhere but with 200k on the beast, I don't think it will be around too much longer
Thanks for the video! I was wondering... as for a DIYer, if lets say I overcharged my system and I got only this cheap low side pressure gauge, would that work if I just drop the pressure back into the 12oz AC can with my car shut off when system has equalized pressure of 80-90psi...? So that it doesn't get vented to atmosphere.
@@ve2430an empty can has zero pressure. An equalized system is going to have positive pressure. Simply connecting manifold to can will pressurize the can with refrigerant. At least until the can equalizes to the system. Then use another empty can.
I replaced the high side line where the pressure switch is and new pressure switch also. Filled it to 2 lb 6 Oz as listed and for about 2 weeks ran perfect. Clutch started to not engage so I figured was a schrader leak I was already aware of topped her off a little and went on about the day this happened one more time. And now about a month later the compressor clutch engages on and off at random times leaving the air hot or muggy and hot then hot. Hooked up my manifold gauges to it and the high side was 350! The low side was about 45. It was 90 out. What would any input be why it's doing this should I go get it evacd and recharged or is they another issue causing this aside being overcharged. I'm no mechanic so any input is appreciated just tryna save some money on my 07 mercury
I've gotta take my truck to a Ford dealership because the last person to work on this truck overcharged it by a long ways... I go buy a DIY kit of freon and connect it to find the PSI over 150... I knew right away why it wasn't blowing cold air
I have a 2006 sienna I change the condenser expansion valves and the AC compressor and only works basically in high RPMs when driving when the car is stopped, the AC is not cooling correctly. I change the gas today and the temperature before that was 250 and over.
If you have an ac system showing both low pressures on high and low and the duct temp warm, how do you know if there is a leak, a stuck closed expansion valve, orfice tube plugged, pressure or control valve failure, or just low refrigerant?
According to the R-134A T/P chart, at 90° ambient, the low side should be between 45-55psi and the high side between 250-270psi. If your system was indeed at the right capacity at first, then hooking up gauges and going off the R-134a T/P charts will tell you nothing about the system state of charge, as it was telling me it was low at first and good after you added 1lb.
Great video and explanation! Ac work can be very simple once you understand how the system works but still can be confusing in certain instances. Thanks for the quick tip! Especially on a Ford! Lol
Looking at your gauge pressures they stay constant, system I’ve worked on shows pressures rising and falling as clutch cuts in and out. Are they two different systems? Low side cycling circa 10 to 30 psi and high side 80 to 125 psi, ambient 70F. I can see on gauges that a lower pressure = lower temp but I also know that there is potential a min of 25psi required to run system. So reducing charge would stop it running I think? M and not make it colder? System above is correctly charged with 28oz of R134A
I've wanted to ask you a question about cooling. I've thought about installing a good aftermarket or something from the junkyard. A stand alone electric fan over the hottest spot on the radiator that is run / turned on by a switch in the cab. Say on a really hot day or heavy stop and go traffic I can reach over and turn on that fan to increase cooling. Would that fan block enough regular cooling with the fan off that it does the opposite of it's intended purpose?
I was just checking my 93 F150s air and when I looked up the pressure chart online it stated for 90 degrees the low side should be between 45-55 psi and for 95 degrees it should be between 50-55 psi. I set mine at around 45 and it was blowing colder than at 35psi, what gives?
Too low of a charge and the lack of refrigerant will not let it absorb as much heat to cool the air in the car like it should. It’s all about the refrigerant sucking up heat and turning from a liquid into a gas in the evaporator. Too little and it turns to a gas too soon to really cool the interior off.
The AC system on my Explorer has the symptoms of blockage when running. When I shut it off there is a 10 psi. difference between the low side and high side pressures which takes hours to equalize. Does this confirm the system has blockage? Thanks
My brother has a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with inadequate cooling. After correct charge is added to vacuumed system high side pressure rises to approximate normal while low side drops to near 20 PSIG and the low pressure control cuts out the compressor clutch - the compressor only stays engaged for less than 30 seconds each cycle and then cuts off, comes back on after low side pressure rises to above 40 PSIG . This repeats endlessly. The expansion valve, refrigerant lines and condenser coil have all been replaced (individually) and the symptoms have not changed. Overcharging intentionally causes the high side pressure to rise but has no effect upon the low side pressure. Any suggestions?
Can you make a video on 07-08 f150 ac issues related to electronic clutch fan not engaging for ac only engaging when coolant temp reaches 210 (which is never)
Ok dumb question but the ac compressor clutch has to be engaged while reading these guages right? I am asking because the pressure drops when the clutch engages
What if just the high side keeps going up? Ambiet is 75f, i was at 30psi low and high was 150psi with a slightly whiney compressor. Vents were still cold but i was worried about the compressor sound and decided to top off. I added about 2/3rds of a pound and the low side barely moved to 33psi but high side went to 175psi. Kind of high for 75f ambient no? Compressor is quiet now. Vents cool nice at 40f in the middle vent. Think I'm ok?
According to the R134a charts for a 90 degree day, you were low to start with? But after putting more in it got too hot, so you were right. Are the Charts wrong??
Quick question sir, I replaced the condenser and compressor. When I charged the system the ac cycles on and off. The low psi shows 35 than down to 18 high starts at 85 than down to 55 when ac kicks in. Outside temperature was high 50's low 60's.Car should take 1.1 lbs but I put a little more than 1.5. I replaced cts and fan but still the same. Am confused over watching under chargeed and over charged videos. Thank you
Ford e-250 with rear a/c low side a/c pressure 65at idle brand new compressor front advance autoparts carquest. New orifice tube,condenser,motorcraft drier? Should I switch the compressor for a motorcraft?
I have an 89 mustang gt and just replaced every a/c component and charged it. Is the a/c compressor supposed to stay on constantly or is it supposed to cycle off and on?
Quick question, at Idle 86F deg. day, The pressures are ~30 / ~200. Windows closed, on recirc. Blower on high. When I increase RPM to 1500 - 2000 it seems to cycle often, every 20 - 30 sec. Seems the same with windows open. Is this normal? Thank you for your professional advice and videos.
Very useful demo video. Thanks a lot. I have a question though. You said that the pressure in the low-pressure section is a very important readings. It makes perfect sense as most of DIYers (myself included) have only the gauge for low-pressure measurements. You also showed the "normal readings" for "this weather". So my question is what is the normal pressure in the suction area? I can see in my car this reading can flactuate from 35 to 45 PSI just because of the ambient temperature. What should I consider as normal? Thanks again.
At 105 degrees ambient I’m getting about 38/280 psi. Cooling is not great. What would you recommend? Are my pressures too low given the ambient temperature? All the charts I see state low side should be 50-55 and high should be 330-335 at 105 degrees
So I have a mystery that I need help on. 2009 FORD f-150 FX4, Evap. Temp: 36-41 Deg F., blending dampers at 0%, vent temp 64 deg. F. when on MAX A/C, cabin temp. sensor shows 194 deg. F. inside the cab. when it's only 75 deg. F. inside. Techs tried to replace cabin temp sensor, still reads the same. Could the damper doors not be connected to the servo's correctly, or could the servos position sensing be wrong causing heat to blend into the vent output air? it's going to a automotive electronic specialists in two weeks under warranty for work, I just want some ideas incase this doesn't work?
My 2014 f150 says 24 oz. I put 2 12 oz cans in it and my pressure readings are 25-28 low side and around 150 high side. I changed expansion valve. Yours shows 34 oz. On your sticker. So I put 3 12 oz cans in it total because its 99 degrees here and 116 with the humidity. It will not blow colder than 60 degrees out of the vents. No matter if I put 24 oz or 36 oz. I'm just lost. My high pressure fans have kicked on but my pressure is around 200 and my low pressure is around 30. Do I still need to add more? I started to change the condenser with the expansion valve.
May I ask you if you would have any idea what can I do to fix my problem. My driver side vents blow hot air. However the passenger side is blowing cold air out of the vents
Do you have duel climate control (separate air temp settings for driver/passenger) if so, sounds like the driver air mix motor is stuck on hot. Find where the air mix motor is. Then turn temp to hot and cold. It should move. If it does not move. Probably that motor is out. You can find the air mix motor on the passenger side and do the same. And you will see the motor move from hot to cold for a reference.
This is going to sound weird, but undercharging is a possibility. When undercharged, the evaporator can be cold at the bottom, but warm at the top. If the ductwork for the driver side is taken from the top of the evaporator, it will be warm air, while the pass side is cold. 90's Contours were like that. In fact, Ford had a TSB on that. (I was a Ford dealer tech thru the 90's)
My 2004 Hyundai Sonata AC was not working as good as it had been, then started blowing hot air. I hooked up my gauges, the high side about 150 psi, the low side ran off the scale to the 6:00 position !? At 80' F... when it quit the outside temp was 105F and I had gone about 15 miles with barely cool air, when started the car about 30 minutes later, it was blowing hot. After a couple hours searching the web for Why I had low side pressure of 350 psi more than double the high side, it said that air had got in the system and to evacuate, pull a vacuum and recharge. I did but the system when running produced the same condition as before. Anyone have any advice ?
What’s it mean when my low side is normal and high side is high? I have s 05 excursion with rear ac I cleaned the front orfice tube and the rear one also. Haven’t re charged it yet. It was 75°f and my low was 35 and my high was 350-400
While it is high enough to be a restriction if the low side is not dropping too low too fast then I would be looking at the condensers ability too cool such as being blocked, fan operation etc.
I have a 2014 silverado and the ac compressor runs but doesn't seem to pump the freon around. Pressure on the low side is greater than high side which is odd. And... the cooling fans does not turn on when I turn the ac on inside the cabin. Fans work fine to cool the engine but not turning on for the ac. I unpluged the Pressure sensor and fans kick high speed. Any thoughts?
If the pressure on the low side is high. The high side pressure cutoff is kicking out the clutch. Plus your AC cooling fan motor is dead. When you push the AC button on. The AC fan should be running.
So as winter ends I went to turn on my AC (2015 mustang gt). It didn’t blow cold so naturally i picked up some refrigerant. To my surprise when I plugged it in it read overcharged. I drained refrigerant out. Ac clutch and compressor kicked on. However I constantly need to keep draining more and more out. And when it does come on only the passenger side vents cool. Mind you last time I charged the system was summer and about 85 degrees out. It’s roughy 60 degrees out now. Could the blend door actually be causing high pressure because the Freon isn’t getting properly cooled? Please help me I’m desperate at this point.
Hello, when my 78 FORD GRANADA Was new it was December, first spring turned it on Scared me the belt was howling, as the compressor tried to run, went home took a look, OK OVERCHARGED Got an EMPTH throwaway cylinder put it in a vacuum, tossed it in the FREEZER, removed the charge & WEIGHED IT. 7LBS ,,,,,WOW NEW CAR pulled vacuum on car , weighed in the charge , never had a problem with it after , just goes to show you , NOT BECAUSE ITS NRW, DOES NOT MEAN ITS OK., that was R12 CHEERS 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Just changed my condenser on my 2015 Roush stage3. Heat exchanger rubbed a hole in it, (For those who own these cars check clearance of heat exchanger ). Put added oz and half of PAG 46 in condenser before install. Pulled vacuum. No leaks. Added 24oz of refrigerant per under hood label Low side reads. 40 , high side 200. At idle. 2k rpm 39 deg at center vent. Does these readings sound about right? It was 93deg outside.
Yes - might need to add another oz of oil though if only 1.5 oz in there . Through low side engine at 1500-2000 rpm . Recheck pressures . Put a big box fan on high in front of radiator and make sure condenser fan running .
Hello there , quick question I have a 07 4.2 , I changed the AC compressor pulled and clutch , that was making a noise , but working good , now that I change those parts the compressor won't turn off ! The longest the AC is on any position the clutch will be engaged , but not engage when is off , before I change the pulley and clutch there was on and off , what can be wrong? I'll appreciate any information
Quick question. I took my car in to a shop to get a recharge, I watched the guy do it as he connected the hoses and pressed buttons on his machine, but he never turned on my car. Did he do it wrong???
@@inverseuniverse5727 Absolutely wrong, no way of knowing previous charge and no way of having accurate high side reading without engine in operation.. You need at least 1500rpm to cycle the a/c and you need airflow over the condenser..
Not necessarily, if he pressed a button to “recover” all your Freon and then he pressed another button to “charge“ your ac with the manufacture’s recommended Freon weight, then you are correctly charged to spec. But, without starting the engine and engaging the compress, you would not know if the ac system had other issues.
Is the AC clutch engaging and disengaging? Because when you go into shops they say if that's happening it's either under charged or overcharged. Looking forward to your thoughts thanks
Blindly charging is the equivalent of using the "parts cannon" to fix a problem. If someone's going to attempt a DIY fix, get a gauge set and understand what the low side and high side pressures should be for the system and what it means when either or both are off-target. And if the gauges show the system is completely dead... don't just charge it! Vac it down, check if it holds vacuum... if it doesn't, charging the system without first finding the leak is a complete waste of money.
@@FordTechMakuloco Yep , agree 100% . I do check condensor fan running on low speed and I place a large box fan in front of radiator so mimics maybe 15 mph driving so condensor fan can have some incoming air pressure . Had to buy really good gauges since the budget gauges were not accurate . Done Subaru to Nissan to Ferrari AC rebuilds so learned to buy new compressors . Rebuilt ones don't last. And new TXV , o-rings and where applicable filter dryer.
Hello there were are you located I'm having problems with my 2013 ford f-150 ecoboost with primary low circuit codes to cylinders 5,6 and module fuel pump
I had a factory charge amount put into my F150. High pressure is @320psi and low pressure is @60psi. Any ideas? I’m thinking expansion valve? The system held a vacuum and was charge to the correct amount of refrigerant.
Videos are awesome they have helped my family alot. I have 2007 Ford Explorer 4.6l 3v 4x4 no rear air 166000 miles Ac is ice cold At idle when its over 95 dry west Texas heat the compressor cycles normally but then randomly will cycle to on position and stay on until vehicle begins to over heat. The computer will shut ac compressor off vehicle cools down and then ac compressor begins cycling again. Will not over heat with ac off Where should i look New thermostat, clutch fan, radiator flush, radiator cap, ford aux electric cooling fan added.
Just went outside turned defroster on high heat. Compressor kicked in and it over heated 105 outside with hood open Turned off defroster cooled down Setting at 219f hood open nothing on
Ok, I have a 02 Excursion with the V10. It has 79k miles. I live in an area where it can be 110 degrees. My A/C was not blowing very cold. So I took it in to have it serviced. It takes 4.25lbs of refrigerant, and on the service invoice it says my low side was 40psi and the high 225psi. It says 47 degrees on discharge. However on some days it doesnt get very cold. Is 40 and 225 ok numbers? I would like it to be as cold as if it was brand new... suggestions?
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Great video, very well done. I have a 2004 F150 5.4l that will not send power to the relay powering the AC coil. When applying 12 volts to the relay all is well and the system does a great job of cooling and the pressures are right where they should be according to the various charts for temp and humidity levels. How do I prove the issue is the PMC? Or should I be looking in a different direction.
Hey my guy, I'm trying to program a USED Abs module into an 07 sport trac. I've done it with both an autel and FMP, still get a code 2477 for configuration. Have been told that for this particular module (7a2z2c219e) that the old data can not be over written and I am just wasting my time (repeatedly). Hoping you can confirm this. Many thanks
I once overcharged the ac in my car causing it to cycle on and of really fast when I started to accelerate. I could feel the car shuttering from it. Took some refrigerant out and it worked fine again
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I don't know anybody else that would take the time and effort like you do to show us this info. Thank you!
Yep the 62 degrees was the temp I was getting. Mine was overcharged too. Now it's 40. Thanks.
Excellent! This is one place where " more is not better", one thing most people don't understand. Thanks Brian.
I was taught this by a HVAC tech. He told me under charge and over charge will trip the pressure switches. I vacuumed down my cooling system and charged it after I was having problems. He pulled out almost an extra pound.
Good video. This is why I ended up buying a 30 lb tank of refrigerant and a weight scale so that I can put the correct amount in. I would love to have a charging station like you have but I'm just a DIY'er that fixes my vehicles and some of my friends and can't justify having one. I used to use the cans and a can tap and it was hard to put the correct amount in.
I taught myself how to do AC repair work back in 2006 by reading AC repair books and by researching on the internet. Bought the correct gauges, vacuum pump, and other tools and have successfully fixed about 15 vehicles over the years. I also got my 609 cert so I could buy R12 which I still run in one of my older vehicles.
That’s awesome!
A wholesaler told me that R-12 was going up so I bought 1200 cans for $1/can. 6 months later it went to $25
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 I bought a mostly full 50 lb tank of R12 probably about 10 years ago or so for about $250. I still use it in my 92 Chevy Cavalier.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 that's like Bitcoin!
Hmm that's interesting, I was expecting the high side pressure to increase more dramatically from such a significant overcharge. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
The sight glass helps a lot. An under charge system will show bubbles. As it is fully charged, the bubbles go away and that's where you have to stop.
The symptoms you show can also be caused by defective engine cooling fan or dirty condenser fins. Best way to tell if a system is over or under charged is to check pressure without starting the engine with the engine temp at ambient. High and low pressure will be equal. Pressure in PSI should be very close to ambient temp in F. There are charts available in the shop manual for this test.
Retired Ford Engineer with 51 years experience fixing Ford, Mazda, Volvo and JLR vehicles in 46 different countries.
When filling the system do you keep high side closed? Looks like he's doing that. But I filled it with both open is that wrong?
@@brucewayne-ej3cx Keep the high side gauge valve closed anytime you are running the engine with the A/C on. The reason is if the A/C is on, the compressor would be pressurizing the Freon supply tank which can be very dangerous. The supply tank could explode.
@@parolajd I'm glad you told me this. Lol it's a bit late tho I did it the wrong way it worked out thank God. It did seem a little sketchy but it worked. Next time I'll do it right.
@ John Parola You should make a diy video for fords. I've always had fords along with their issues. And fix the majority of the problems myself if at all possible. This Ac compressor/ system diagnosis / fix is one I'll probably end up having a shop fix as I do not have all of the tools.
@@parolajdif the pressures aren’t equal at ambient temperature and cold engine at rest ,what this could mean Sir ( probably some obstruction, the temperature in the vents goes down to 34-36 F by the pyrometer ) ? The ambient temperature 80.7 degree F by the pyrometer and 81 F by regular wall thermometer. High side pressure is 100psi and low side pressure is 80 psi static on cold engine . All pressures are taken from the black scales in psi of the gauges. Even reversed the gauges to see if they measure properly and they are correct . The pressure- temperature chart for r134a says the pressure need to be 86.7psi at 80degrees F and 88.4 psi at 81 degrees F .
Converting the low side pressure to evaporator temperature is a great tool to help visualize why the air coming out of the vents is warmer.
Initially your evaporator temp was 44 degrees. Afterwards it was 58 degrees. Obviously the 58 degree coil won't cool as well. BUT, don't confuse that with undercharging a system, i.e low suction pressure.
As he points out tho', more doesn't mean better. Great video.
Thank you a lot for this video! Finally got my ac system working right and barely overcharged it. Your video helped me fix it amongst forums & ac psi specs that were confusing
Thanks to the experienced commenters too!
When properly charged, weak compressor will give them same symptoms. It's hard to suck than to push and you need a good pressure drop to boil off in the evaporator.
A weak compressor can give same readings?
Those auto parts quick charge don't come with fancy machine like you got, you got to depend on the analogue gauge, I guess was not paying attention to quantity , just opened it all the way, so my Honda Civic was not getting cold like to should, After watching this video, I am pretty sure I overcharged it, So i had to let some out at low side at the schrader valve , I would let some out and keep checking, saw my temp gauge starting to come down, got it down to 40 , Worked like a charm, I was going to take my civic to a shop, Glad I saw your video, Thank you Mr Brian
YOU LET SOME OUT???? OR you recovered some refrigerant?
One of those is illegal.😮
Thank you so much, very helpful information.
I had over charged my ac after changing out an AC Condenser and it wasn't getting cold. The compressor kept turning on and off, I adjusted the amount of freon and its working fine now.
I have a 2011 F250 that I bought used in 2018. I never had any AC problems and I've never added any refrigerant. Recently it quit cooling. If I put it on max cool it will eventually come on after 10 or so miles of continuous driving. I thought maybe it needed charging so I bought a can of refrigerant and connected it to the low pressure side. I DIDN'T ADD ANY REFRIGERANT, but the gauge read nearly 90. The ambient temperature was about 78 degrees F.
But more is better! Good demo. Whenever I see those MONSTER 20oz or more "AC pro" cans in the parts stores I wonder how many people have dumped those into good systems. Heck, newer vehicles are full at 16oz sometimes.
And those guys will never see the high side at 350 psi, since they don't have both gauges ...😵
@Mustang Ricer6589 Not out of reach in some places, they have the small cans ready for sale at places around me. Still $$$ but it will come down in price.
Or they buy it because it says, With Stop Leak. I’ve been doing this for 40 years, there’s no such thing as a stop leak for A/C systems, only destruction.
I have 2013 f150 that was blowing cool but thought it could be colder so I used one of those cans. Now when I turn on my ac the fan goes to high speed. I'm guessing it is doing this because it is over charged? Would it be best to drain it all and just have it recharged?
@@socratese71yes
You should make a video showing how to tune the system for optimal cooling, in the dead of heat. I find that recharging to spec, and removing tenths at a time, yields some pretty impressive results. It's not a free lunch however, you sacrifice optimal output at lower temps, and make compressor cycling duty load higher. I've used other gasses other than r134a in my personal systems, and have achieved great results for super cheap.
I've always wondered if there was someone else out there that does that!! I do the same thing. I've never recharged and stopped at spec. I've always gotten really cold air conditioners from just playing with the freon level. Mine have always been coldest with less freon than spec. Is that what you've seen over the years?
@@TheVenom8343 and under charge can make it cooler. I know that in residential systems the evap coil will freeze over if the system is under charged and air will stop passing through the coil. Another issue with low charge is that you will increase compressor cycling which may decrease your fuel economy on the car and increase compressor wear.
@@pibblesnbits Yeah, it freezes up. But I throw it over to "vent" and she's thawed in 30 seconds or so. I choose to do that because my A/C will blow 28 degrees F and boy that's nice down here in hot ass MS!! Lol
I'm in MS as well. My 2014 will only blow 60 degrees out the vents. I changed the expansion valve today and same thing. What kind of freon are you using? I put 2 12 oz can which is 24 oz which is what the sticker says. My gauges read 25-30 and 15-200. So I added a extra can. Pressure went up 30/200. Temp gauge dropped to 58 or so degrees. What are your Pressure readings?what part of MS are you in?
I was able to change both high/low standard schrader valve cores that were leaking
w/o losing additional refrigerant on my 90s Honda. Thank you Mastercool!
How is that possible
@@jasonmorris2813 The tool has a built in ball valve controlled by a lever preventing the discharge of refrigerant and another part of the tool unscrews and removes the valve core aided by pressure from the system. It's a clever device using a simple procedure for removal and replacement. Sometimes they don't always work on the first try. They also make them for home A/C condenser units. Same process.
That a/c machine is nice.
My truck’s low side pressure is too high. Freon is good and no leaks but it is not cooling. The mechanic said there is restriction and that I need to change the compressor and accumulator. The compressor is working it is just not cooling. What is your opinion on that?
How to spot an overcharged A/C... the empty can of ACPro on the floor board!
😂
Just can't beat a good tec guy...thx Brian...
I LOVE THE VIDEOS, FRIEND, THANKS FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE. YOU ARE THE BEST !!!! (Sorry, I don't speak English.)
ME ENCANTAN TUS VIDEOS AMIGO, GRACIAS POR TUS CONOCIMIENTOS. ERES EL MEJOR!!!!
Thanks!
I had a garage service my working air con come back not working they said my compressor is bad. It would turn on for a second make a very bad noise turn off. I hooked up my own air con gauge. The low side was on 100 psi WTF they overfilled it. We got it back down to 35psi. Works perfect now no noise ice cold. Dont know if any long term damage but right now its good. Makes it worse my work boss owns the garage lmao. I told him your guys nearly destroyed my air con. They are in the shit. lucky for them it was my car not another customer. Would have cost him.
Great video, my car was sitting for a long time and the AC just was not getting cold enough so now I know what to do thanks bro
The other issue people don't understand well is how dramatically ambient temperature will change absolute gas pressures. Never interpret pressure readings without adjusting for ambient temp.
Is there any concern with potential oil added with those DIY cans? We did a can, pulled .9 oz oil, but didn’t bother adding any PAG after the recharge...the can only indicates 5-15% PGME of a 20oz can...compressor ok with the added oil? I just love the ‘propriety’ mix along with the concentrations are ‘trade secret’ according to their MSDS.
Excellent info!
Great vid!! Very instructive. I’ll put that one in the bank!!
Perfect timing. I just recharged my 2006 Navigator yesterday, and by the looks of it I'm undercharged. System holds 58 ozs, and I added 4 12oz cans. System works great though, both front and rear A/C systems are blowing cold air. Thanks for the video.
Was it totally empty? Or did you just dump 4 12 oz cans in it without knowing what was in there?
Excellent video, its very easy to overcharge/undercharge with those r134a cans if not checking specified pressures under the A/C performance test procedures for that vehicle (Ambient temp, max heat load, stated engine RPM, out of direct sunlight).
humidity.
Yup, looked exactly like when I overcharged mine. 110F day and it was brutal in the car. Pulled off some pressure and back to ice cold
How you pulled off some pressure?
with a recovery machine of course
@@gerardotorres8872 Straight into the atmosphere of course
Greta will be pissed! How dare you 😂
Question? Why would I have ice cold AC at idle but when on the highway it warms up and not as cold? At idle I am showing 38-40 degrees and on highway showing 55-60? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
year, model, engine?
Sorry for the late response. It’s a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 5.4l engine. Thank you
@@ed4709 If its goes back to blowing cold again when you come to a stop, (Without needing to bump the a/c clutch) its likely an undercharged a/c system.
After watching your other videos, I went with the little otc bottle and added it until the compressor stopped short cycling. I ran it for about 15 minutes and my windows started picking up condensation outside. I know I have a slow leak somewhere but with 200k on the beast, I don't think it will be around too much longer
Thanks for the video! I was wondering... as for a DIYer, if lets say I overcharged my system and I got only this cheap low side pressure gauge, would that work if I just drop the pressure back into the 12oz AC can with my car shut off when system has equalized pressure of 80-90psi...? So that it doesn't get vented to atmosphere.
How are you gonna suck it back into the can? Lol
@@ve2430an empty can has zero pressure. An equalized system is going to have positive pressure. Simply connecting manifold to can will pressurize the can with refrigerant. At least until the can equalizes to the system. Then use another empty can.
@@HectorFabela-k6u How do you know the can will not blow or explode.?
@@HeydaCarreras By weight. Just like you add it into the system.
It's called a refrigerant scale.
I replaced the high side line where the pressure switch is and new pressure switch also. Filled it to 2 lb 6 Oz as listed and for about 2 weeks ran perfect. Clutch started to not engage so I figured was a schrader leak I was already aware of topped her off a little and went on about the day this happened one more time. And now about a month later the compressor clutch engages on and off at random times leaving the air hot or muggy and hot then hot. Hooked up my manifold gauges to it and the high side was 350! The low side was about 45. It was 90 out. What would any input be why it's doing this should I go get it evacd and recharged or is they another issue causing this aside being overcharged. I'm no mechanic so any input is appreciated just tryna save some money on my 07 mercury
I've gotta take my truck to a Ford dealership because the last person to work on this truck overcharged it by a long ways... I go buy a DIY kit of freon and connect it to find the PSI over 150... I knew right away why it wasn't blowing cold air
Im so gladyou always explain yourself to many 9whatevers) should not touch automobiles at all
I have a 2006 sienna I change the condenser expansion valves and the AC compressor and only works basically in high RPMs when driving when the car is stopped, the AC is not cooling correctly. I change the gas today and the temperature before that was 250 and over.
THINGS YOU always wanted to know , BUT were afraid to ASK !
If you have an ac system showing both low pressures on high and low and the duct temp warm, how do you know if there is a leak, a stuck closed expansion valve, orfice tube plugged, pressure or control valve failure, or just low refrigerant?
When I'm parked ac won't go on and off,bit when I'm driving I can hear click noise ac going on and off... why it does that?
According to the R-134A T/P chart, at 90° ambient, the low side should be between 45-55psi and the high side between 250-270psi. If your system was indeed at the right capacity at first, then hooking up gauges and going off the R-134a T/P charts will tell you nothing about the system state of charge, as it was telling me it was low at first and good after you added 1lb.
Great video on a.c. pressure, explained!
Jesus Christ. I now want to buy a Ford pickup just because this guy so knows his shit about Fords!
Great video and explanation! Ac work can be very simple once you understand how the system works but still can be confusing in certain instances. Thanks for the quick tip! Especially on a Ford! Lol
Very simple😄😄😄😄
Looking at your gauge pressures they stay constant, system I’ve worked on shows pressures rising and falling as clutch cuts in and out. Are they two different systems? Low side cycling circa 10 to 30 psi and high side 80 to 125 psi, ambient 70F. I can see on gauges that a lower pressure = lower temp but I also know that there is potential a min of 25psi required to run system. So reducing charge would stop it running I think? M and not make it colder? System above is correctly charged with 28oz of R134A
A weak compressor can give the same reading on a properly charged system?
I've wanted to ask you a question about cooling. I've thought about installing a good aftermarket or something from the junkyard. A stand alone electric fan over the hottest spot on the radiator that is run / turned on by a switch in the cab. Say on a really hot day or heavy stop and go traffic I can reach over and turn on that fan to increase cooling. Would that fan block enough regular cooling with the fan off that it does the opposite of it's intended purpose?
I was just checking my 93 F150s air and when I looked up the pressure chart online it stated for 90 degrees the low side should be between 45-55 psi and for 95 degrees it should be between 50-55 psi. I set mine at around 45 and it was blowing colder than at 35psi, what gives?
Too low of a charge and the lack of refrigerant will not let it absorb as much heat to cool the air in the car like it should. It’s all about the refrigerant sucking up heat and turning from a liquid into a gas in the evaporator. Too little and it turns to a gas too soon to really cool the interior off.
The AC system on my Explorer has the symptoms of blockage when running. When I shut it off there is a 10 psi. difference between the low side and high side pressures which takes hours to equalize. Does this confirm the system has blockage? Thanks
My brother has a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat with inadequate cooling. After correct charge is added to vacuumed system high side pressure rises to approximate normal while low side drops to near 20 PSIG and the low pressure control cuts out the compressor clutch - the compressor only stays engaged for less than 30 seconds each cycle and then cuts off, comes back on after low side pressure rises to above 40 PSIG . This repeats endlessly. The expansion valve, refrigerant lines and condenser coil have all been replaced (individually) and the symptoms have not changed. Overcharging intentionally causes the high side pressure to rise but has no effect upon the low side pressure. Any suggestions?
Please what other symptoms can be noticed without the special machine?
Can you make a video on 07-08 f150 ac issues related to electronic clutch fan not engaging for ac only engaging when coolant temp reaches 210 (which is never)
Ok dumb question but the ac compressor clutch has to be engaged while reading these guages right?
I am asking because the pressure drops when the clutch engages
correct
What if just the high side keeps going up? Ambiet is 75f, i was at 30psi low and high was 150psi with a slightly whiney compressor. Vents were still cold but i was worried about the compressor sound and decided to top off. I added about 2/3rds of a pound and the low side barely moved to 33psi but high side went to 175psi. Kind of high for 75f ambient no? Compressor is quiet now. Vents cool nice at 40f in the middle vent. Think I'm ok?
According to the R134a charts for a 90 degree day, you were low to start with? But after putting more in it got too hot, so you were right. Are the Charts wrong??
You must check pressure on a hot engine bay otherwise they will be low.
Found one today with 350 on the high side and 120 on the suction side...
Hypertension!!!
Looks good to me @_@
Quick question sir, I replaced the condenser and compressor. When I charged the system the ac cycles on and off. The low psi shows 35 than down to 18 high starts at 85 than down to 55 when ac kicks in. Outside temperature was high 50's low 60's.Car should take 1.1 lbs but I put a little more than 1.5. I replaced cts and fan but still the same. Am confused over watching under chargeed and over charged videos. Thank you
Ford e-250 with rear a/c low side a/c pressure 65at idle brand new compressor front advance autoparts carquest. New orifice tube,condenser,motorcraft drier? Should I switch the compressor for a motorcraft?
I have a P0530. This code don't let engage ac clutch. Low and hi pressure sensors are new, what else to check up.
ok - how do you fix the overcharging???
Do you run at idle or bump up RPM when checking pressure? I couldn't tell
idle
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks
Bump the rpm if you have a clutch fan.
I have an 89 mustang gt and just replaced every a/c component and charged it. Is the a/c compressor supposed to stay on constantly or is it supposed to cycle off and on?
Quick question, at Idle 86F deg. day, The pressures are ~30 / ~200. Windows closed, on recirc. Blower on high.
When I increase RPM to 1500 - 2000 it seems to cycle often, every 20 - 30 sec. Seems the same with windows open.
Is this normal?
Thank you for your professional advice and videos.
What about if the low pressure gauge is flunctuating and compressor turns on and off with in 6 seconds?
Very useful demo video. Thanks a lot. I have a question though. You said that the pressure in the low-pressure section is a very important readings. It makes perfect sense as most of DIYers (myself included) have only the gauge for low-pressure measurements. You also showed the "normal readings" for "this weather". So my question is what is the normal pressure in the suction area? I can see in my car this reading can flactuate from 35 to 45 PSI just because of the ambient temperature. What should I consider as normal? Thanks again.
What are the causes of two sides high inspite of properly charged AC system
At 105 degrees ambient I’m getting about 38/280 psi. Cooling is not great. What would you recommend? Are my pressures too low given the ambient temperature? All the charts I see state low side should be 50-55 and high should be 330-335 at 105 degrees
So what would the gauges read if it was an undercharged system?
So I have a mystery that I need help on. 2009 FORD f-150 FX4, Evap. Temp: 36-41 Deg F., blending dampers at 0%, vent temp 64 deg. F. when on MAX A/C, cabin temp. sensor shows 194 deg. F. inside the cab. when it's only 75 deg. F. inside. Techs tried to replace cabin temp sensor, still reads the same. Could the damper doors not be connected to the servo's correctly, or could the servos position sensing be wrong causing heat to blend into the vent output air? it's going to a automotive electronic specialists in two weeks under warranty for work, I just want some ideas incase this doesn't work?
My 2014 f150 says 24 oz. I put 2 12 oz cans in it and my pressure readings are 25-28 low side and around 150 high side. I changed expansion valve. Yours shows 34 oz. On your sticker. So I put 3 12 oz cans in it total because its 99 degrees here and 116 with the humidity. It will not blow colder than 60 degrees out of the vents. No matter if I put 24 oz or 36 oz. I'm just lost. My high pressure fans have kicked on but my pressure is around 200 and my low pressure is around 30. Do I still need to add more? I started to change the condenser with the expansion valve.
May I ask you if you would have any idea what can I do to fix my problem. My driver side vents blow hot air. However the passenger side is blowing cold air out of the vents
Sounds like you have a blend door problem. He has another video for the blend door actuators
Do you have duel climate control (separate air temp settings for driver/passenger) if so, sounds like the driver air mix motor is stuck on hot. Find where the air mix motor is. Then turn temp to hot and cold. It should move. If it does not move. Probably that motor is out. You can find the air mix motor on the passenger side and do the same. And you will see the motor move from hot to cold for a reference.
This is going to sound weird, but undercharging is a possibility. When undercharged, the evaporator can be cold at the bottom, but warm at the top. If the ductwork for the driver side is taken from the top of the evaporator, it will be warm air, while the pass side is cold. 90's Contours were like that. In fact, Ford had a TSB on that. (I was a Ford dealer tech thru the 90's)
Thank you for this demonstration. Very insightful.
My 2004 Hyundai Sonata AC was not working as good as it had been, then started blowing hot air. I hooked up my gauges, the high side about 150 psi, the low side ran off the scale to the 6:00 position !? At 80' F... when it quit the outside temp was 105F and I had gone about 15 miles with barely cool air, when started the car about 30 minutes later, it was blowing hot. After a couple hours searching the web for Why I had low side pressure of 350 psi more than double the high side, it said that air had got in the system and to evacuate, pull a vacuum and recharge. I did but the system when running produced the same condition as before. Anyone have any advice ?
It's possible that the compressor is faulty.
What does it mean when my low side is 55 psi and high side is 175 psi on a 95 degree day? When I turn the van, low and high side equalize at 110 psi.
Glad you made AC video thanks
What’s it mean when my low side is normal and high side is high? I have s 05 excursion with rear ac
I cleaned the front orfice tube and the rear one also. Haven’t re charged it yet.
It was 75°f and my low was 35 and my high was 350-400
While it is high enough to be a restriction if the low side is not dropping too low too fast then I would be looking at the condensers ability too cool such as being blocked, fan operation etc.
@@FordTechMakuloco thank you. I was wondering if maybe the higher psi was due to front and rear ac units maybe it’s normal?
No not normal
@@FordTechMakuloco could try a new condenser. Wouldn’t hurt. 20 year old vehicle
How do you fix an over charged system??? My 2012 5.0 f150 is blowing hot air and the gauge is pegged to the high when I check the low port.
11 days, cannot depend for follow . This is the way it goes
I have a 2014 silverado and the ac compressor runs but doesn't seem to pump the freon around. Pressure on the low side is greater than high side which is odd. And... the cooling fans does not turn on when I turn the ac on inside the cabin. Fans work fine to cool the engine but not turning on for the ac. I unpluged the Pressure sensor and fans kick high speed. Any thoughts?
If the pressure on the low side is high. The high side pressure cutoff is kicking out the clutch. Plus your AC cooling fan motor is dead. When you push the AC button on. The AC fan should be running.
So as winter ends I went to turn on my AC (2015 mustang gt). It didn’t blow cold so naturally i picked up some refrigerant. To my surprise when I plugged it in it read overcharged. I drained refrigerant out. Ac clutch and compressor kicked on. However I constantly need to keep draining more and more out. And when it does come on only the passenger side vents cool. Mind you last time I charged the system was summer and about 85 degrees out. It’s roughy 60 degrees out now. Could the blend door actually be causing high pressure because the Freon isn’t getting properly cooled? Please help me I’m desperate at this point.
Hello, when my 78 FORD GRANADA Was new it was December, first spring turned it on Scared me the belt was howling, as the compressor tried to run, went home took a look, OK OVERCHARGED Got an EMPTH throwaway cylinder put it in a vacuum, tossed it in the FREEZER, removed the charge & WEIGHED IT. 7LBS ,,,,,WOW NEW CAR pulled vacuum on car , weighed in the charge , never had a problem with it after , just goes to show you , NOT BECAUSE ITS NRW, DOES NOT MEAN ITS OK., that was R12 CHEERS 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Just changed my condenser on my 2015 Roush stage3. Heat exchanger rubbed a hole in it, (For those who own these cars check clearance of heat exchanger ). Put added oz and half of PAG 46 in condenser before install. Pulled vacuum. No leaks. Added 24oz of refrigerant per under hood label Low side reads. 40 , high side 200. At idle. 2k rpm 39 deg at center vent. Does these readings sound about right? It was 93deg outside.
Yes - might need to add another oz of oil though if only 1.5 oz in there . Through low side engine at 1500-2000 rpm . Recheck pressures . Put a big box fan on high in front of radiator and make sure condenser fan running .
Hello there , quick question I have a 07 4.2 , I changed the AC compressor pulled and clutch , that was making a noise , but working good , now that I change those parts the compressor won't turn off ! The longest the AC is on any position the clutch will be engaged , but not engage when is off , before I change the pulley and clutch there was on and off , what can be wrong? I'll appreciate any information
The clutch pulley has a small washer. If you didnt measure the clutch clearance after the installation. That's a place to check first
Quick question. I took my car in to a shop to get a recharge, I watched the guy do it as he connected the hoses and pressed buttons on his machine, but he never turned on my car. Did he do it wrong???
Not wrong . If charging without engine running ,
But he did not check , fans and inside blower , that is incomplete service.
@@inverseuniverse5727 Absolutely wrong, no way of knowing previous charge and no way of having accurate high side reading without engine in operation.. You need at least 1500rpm to cycle the a/c and you need airflow over the condenser..
Not necessarily, if he pressed a button to “recover” all your Freon and then he pressed another button to “charge“ your ac with the manufacture’s recommended Freon weight, then you are correctly charged to spec. But, without starting the engine and engaging the compress, you would not know if the ac system had other issues.
Is the AC clutch engaging and disengaging? Because when you go into shops they say if that's happening it's either under charged or overcharged. Looking forward to your thoughts thanks
No it must be way overcharged to cycle
Blindly charging is the equivalent of using the "parts cannon" to fix a problem. If someone's going to attempt a DIY fix, get a gauge set and understand what the low side and high side pressures should be for the system and what it means when either or both are off-target. And if the gauges show the system is completely dead... don't just charge it! Vac it down, check if it holds vacuum... if it doesn't, charging the system without first finding the leak is a complete waste of money.
Agreed!
@@FordTechMakuloco Yep , agree 100% . I do check condensor fan running on low speed and I place a large box fan in front of radiator so mimics maybe 15 mph driving so condensor fan can have some incoming air pressure . Had to buy really good gauges since the budget gauges were not accurate . Done Subaru to Nissan to Ferrari AC rebuilds so learned to buy new compressors . Rebuilt ones don't last. And new TXV , o-rings and where applicable filter dryer.
Hello there were are you located I'm having problems with my 2013 ford f-150 ecoboost with primary low circuit codes to cylinders 5,6 and module fuel pump
Hey i need your help i got a ford 5.4 triton 2004 its smoking and it randomly turns off when not accelerating
What is the 2007 ford xlt flex 5.4 ac refrigerant and oil capacity? Sticker missing under hood. Thanks
Would an over charge a/c system cause the a/c clutch/ compressor to keep running?
I had a factory charge amount put into my F150. High pressure is @320psi and low pressure is @60psi. Any ideas? I’m thinking expansion valve?
The system held a vacuum and was charge to the correct amount of refrigerant.
Videos are awesome they have helped my family alot.
I have 2007 Ford Explorer 4.6l 3v 4x4 no rear air 166000 miles
Ac is ice cold
At idle when its over 95 dry west Texas heat the compressor cycles normally but then randomly will cycle to on position and stay on until vehicle begins to over heat. The computer will shut ac compressor off vehicle cools down and then ac compressor begins cycling again.
Will not over heat with ac off
Where should i look
New thermostat, clutch fan, radiator flush, radiator cap, ford aux electric cooling fan added.
Just went outside turned defroster on high heat.
Compressor kicked in and it over heated
105 outside with hood open
Turned off defroster cooled down
Setting at 219f hood open nothing on
BTW: I like the new intro. 🙂
Ok, I have a 02 Excursion with the V10. It has 79k miles. I live in an area where it can be 110 degrees. My A/C was not blowing very cold. So I took it in to have it serviced. It takes 4.25lbs of refrigerant, and on the service invoice it says my low side was 40psi and the high 225psi. It says 47 degrees on discharge. However on some days it doesnt get very cold. Is 40 and 225 ok numbers? I would like it to be as cold as if it was brand new... suggestions?
a/c cools fine when the engine is first cranked up (cold). Once warmed up, the system blows warm air. Does this sound like an expansion valve?
Did you ever figure out what caused that problem? Having the same shit goin on with my 03 5.4 f150
@@kring5252 any update bro?
🌮👍🏼😀🥵😊👍🏼 It’s Shooting Ice Cubes Out The Vents on mine at 35 on The Low and 300 on The High Side R 134a Thank You Master Ford Tech 😀👍🏼
"Let me show you what happens when you overpressurize a.." BOOOOOOOOM!!!!
Hahahahahaha
Nice one, lol
and don't charge from high side folks.
Boom is unlikely unless a already weak hose or seal ruptures
DIY - I need to replace my blend door actuator - driver side on my 2008 F350 Super DUTY. HELP!!
Is it normal for a Ford super duty ac compresor to toggle on and off constantly?
no