As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Parts purchased for this project: Compressor: amzn.to/3gsLyw3 Condenser: amzn.to/3iAS1XB Evaporator: amzn.to/31LCJcB Accumulator/Drier/Orifice tube kit: amzn.to/2ZHc4em To donate financially to the channel: www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=5PRRGY4GM2CSE&item_name=To+Support+A+Guy+And+His+Projects%21¤cy_code=USD&source=url
@@jessierumley4203 varied on time of day but it was closer t o60 before and closer to low 50's after. still not as cold as my other vehicles, but cold enough!
@@AGuyandHisProjectsGreat video sir, and I appreciate your honesty that will save me money. I was wondering if you or any of your friends ever did the heater coil isolation modification and if it help and how much it helped. I have a 2002 and I have been able to get it to 48F on 98 degree days without changing anything but orfice but I am not happy... pull 1hr from the lake when you been on the water all day I like to see at least 40f but I am beginning to think after all you did, that our old truck AC is not big enough for the crew cab and certainly not designed to get us low enough vent temperature no matter where were live. I drove a 2016 and it would freeze you when 98f outside. I think they just didn't design our systems well. I wish someone had an upgraded system they would sell to retrofit our old truck. But I think I am like you I got 160,000 on the old girl and I am not paying 90,000 dollars to these greed fill people, When I was in my twenties you could buy a F250 for 30k on any lot. This country has gone so far downhill....
@@jessierumley4203 yeah so I had the v10 in this video and it wouldn't cool quite as nice as I would like, adequate yes but not icy. I now have a 6.0l powerstroke that has the same a/c system and it blows just about the same as the v10 did lol. I have tried oem compressors and other equipment. I've played around with different orifice tubes and yeah, neither truck will make nipples hard in the summer haha!
You may not be a certified mechanic, but you are a good mechanic. You have made the best video that I have watched on replacing the A/C compressor and other necessary components. Thank you for taking the time to give a thorough instructional video. It convinced me that I can do this job.
I am getting ready to do the same thing, same parts but for a 7.3. Don’t ever look to see where the compressor is located on a 7.3. It is a much easier job. I think you were supposed to take the rubber off the other evaporator, but I doubt it matters. Because the compressor is so easy with a 7.3, I have never removed the inner fender, so the evaporator is the hardest step by far. It is really hard to access those back bolts with the inner fender not taken out. I cut the top of box where the evaporator goes so I do not have to remove the back bolts to get it out. I found that I was able to seal the box back better doing them this way when not removing the inner fender. One piece of Mylar tape. Another thing you might consider is during the summer, I disconnect the heater core and connect the water pump with a straight piece of hose, by passing the heater core. Plug the two open ends together and leave some antifreeze in it. You might also want to replace the blender door actuator. Super easy. All you need is a flat screw driver, but make sure the replacement is turned the same as the current one. What happened to mine was the blender door stopped closing completely and the compressor started melting the Teflon in it. When I pulled the orifice, it was completely clogged with black. The only way to fix it is a complete replacement. I tried cleaning out the evaporator, but melted Teflon is stubborn. I will pull the inner fender this time and make sure the air box is sealed.
THIS VIDEO IS A+ AWESOME. Sorry stuck on caps. No wasted film shots, no wasted words. Good angles and tips. It is so hard to make a video this good... I bought a 2003 f250 super duty V10 from New Holland tractor in Oregon for $2500. And sold my 30K 2014 RAM after tearing offf the dash and redoing the AC in that. I have no idea why this runs so well with 325K miles on it. I like your shocks. I put FOX 2.0 on mine.
Thanks for the comment! I always appreciate the feedback. I have actually never run fox shocks on any of my vehicles, not for any reason other than I just never have. Someday maybe i'll spring for a set
Here's a good tip for you - To save your Condenser coil from damage Simply install a house screen with frame in front of the coil assembly. On my 2008 Super Duty someone did this before I purchased the truck - and WOW! what a saver from buggs and road rash gravel getting in and plugging the air flow...
Thanks for the video. I performed this exact proceedure Except on diesels the Compressor is at the very top. Super easy. My truck is a 2000 Ford F-250 Super duty 7.3 Power stroke. Same color as this picture. Just followed this video and installed UAC condenser, Compressor, Dryer and evaporator. it was all one kit for $247 from Rock Auto... The evaporator was a little challenging. But compressor, dryer and condenser was easy peasy. it's 101 outside today in Texas and my AC is blowing 45 Degrees. Everything worked like it should. Things to consider having on hand... when you change the Evaporator, get some updated insulation and or tape to cover the Air Box. Super easy to put a good insulation job on it while it's out of the truck. Under time crunch I put it all back together. So I will come back and do the best I can on better insulation. Right now, I am happy with it. I will try to check back in a year. Feel free to ask questions. Good luck ... YMMV.
Almost 1 year later, I can tell you that the system is still working great.... Very Happy I did this....I live in Texas and it gets hot.....Just had a very hot day in August and it worked very well... My insulation job didn't last.... but overall the system performs very well. Very happy with my system and highly recommend this scenario.
The pressure switch that is on the hoses that connect to the compressor.....Why didn't Ford allow for the connecting plug to FACE you instead of facing AWAY from you. AT LEAST it was that way on my truck. What a PITA!! Thanks Ford engineers...I used a dentist mirror and a hook tool to get it out..
Nice video man! I was told a 13mm flex head ratcheting wrench isn’t a key tool for this compressor job, don’t know if that makes sense but thought I’d throw it out there. Thanks for the video man, it will help me tons when I finally break down and do all the work my truck needs.
@@AGuyandHisProjects OMG. That evaporator cover. I am having a hell of a time. Seems like Ford could have put locators on the bottom and then secured with bolts on the top. Unbelievable.
@@winstonsmith3685 hahahaha I do not disagree! I think I ended up ripping the wheel well liner out and getting at some of them from the bottom...I think. I've done a few of these and the different vehicles kinda mesh together noe
Thanks for the video, but some of your thoughts on not showing some of the details while replacing the Evaporator Core being stupid is not so stupid. We just swapped out ours yesterday...It took total of 4 hours. Details such as removing the fender liner which was a nightmare as it did not want to come out with 2 of us working on it. I think we had about 14 or so screws to find and remove, all the hoses, accumulator, etc has to be removed. Both my son-in-law and I turn wrenches on almost all repairs to our vehicles and this one was a bit of a challenge. But rewarding in the end. Just glad I got the quick view at least to motivate me to do this repair. I am sure the repair shop would have charged me an entire day's labor.
Thanks for watching and the comment! Yeah I have to pick and choose how many details to show as the videos start getting extremely long lol. Glad you were able to figure it out and end up with that feeling of accomplishment! Always feels good when you are finished and know you saved a bunch of dough
Nice! I will be doing this coming up spring 2021. Right now it's November 2020 and I have plenty of time to get the parts. Whenever I do this job, this is the video I will be using. Except Mines a 5.4
Thanks for watching! I tried to do a thorough job on this video for that very purpose. Please remember though, I am not a mechanic nor do I have any professional experience. How close are the 6.8l and 5.4l layouts? Do they look similar?
I liked your comment on the third bolt on the compressor-hitting the shroud under it. I got my "one direction" ratchet caght in no mans land. Used a grinder. Cut BRAKE LINE! Ordered motorcraft BRTF-3 to rplace. Only 83 bucks on Amazon. (I was trying to use good finger-thinking and let my disc wander. Your video is awesome BTW.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Thank you for saying that. I thought I was the only one. It was an Ikon, not my Snapon, I grinded it off, and it still WORKS! I ground down the metal underneath afterwards as I wait for new brake line. I should have just made a brake line repair. But this way I'll bleed brakes and replace front calipers as well.
nice vid. Helpful: restate fastener sizing on components.. I saw the gunked up orfice,, but did NOT see you flush the lines. or any remaining components (you replaced yours) Most warranties are voided without doing so. thanks
Thanks for watching and the compliment! To be 100% honest...this was the easiest a/c replacement I have done. Everything is very accessible on this truck. Some other vehicles can be a monster task lol
Diesel tech Ron has a video showing the little spring loaded tab about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long on the bottom passenger side of the tensioner that you push in while holding the tensioner with a breaker bar or the special tool and then while still holding the tab in you release the tensioner and it is held in place to get the belt off. I’ve seen it in a few videos where they take the belt off. You can reach under the tensioner on the lower passengers side of it ( bottom right corner if you are facing forward towards the front of the truck) and feel around for the tab. You push in and you can feel it give under the light spring tension on it.
O ring kit is just a conglomerate of various kits I've bought. Your local auto parts store probably sells a variety pack. As far as the plastic tool it is a refrigerant line disconnect tool.
Important to know, if it’s a 5.4 and not a v10, there are bolt holes on the crossmember to go up through with an extension to remove the 3 bolts. It’s in front of the cross memeberon the v10. Dealing with it now
Very good gonna do the same thing on my 7.3 over the weekendWhat is a really rough range on the parts pricing. I’ll probably end up buying my parts through Napa since they are close
@@stitchthisditchthat259 very well thanks for asking. I replaced all parts my 16yr old son helped and we both learned a lot. For refrigerant we were able to get a scale a pump gauges and refrigerant from an HVAC friend. Blowing nice cold air wife’s happy!
@@williamwmcqiv6157 lucky man unfortunately for me discovered I have no ac package on my truck no condenser or anything else no ac controls in cab looks like I’ll continue to cook until winter in the Midwest here
@@stitchthisditchthat259 Ouch..I once knew a guy who ripped out his ac in az cuz he only used his truck to get to work and he could get there before it would cool down. His logic…. it made better sense to rip it out instead of …just not use it.
Good stuff Mainerd. Just got finished doing the cylinder head temp sensor and all related parts including the alternator (bearing noise). Just after I got everything done.... AC system failed on my 03 Excursion. Guess what's next.
Great vid, i see you went aftermarket on all of it. where did you get the accum./drier tube o rings at ? and 1 more if may, on the top of accum/drier itself next to the two main lines/tubes is a port sticking up (mine has a black cap on it), could you tell me what that is ?
I think I'm having the same issue with the orifice tube clogged on my 2000 F350 5.4, the A/C works at idle but once I get driving the A/C kicks off and on. I thought it was just low on refrigerant but when I charged the system more now the clutch slips when I rev the engine and only engages at idle. I've got a video on my channel of what I'm seeing. Might just go ahead and do this and replace the whole system.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Maybe? It does seem to lead to a bad clutch that it slips, but when I set the RPM to around 2500-3k like I'm running down the highway the low side drops way down to around 10-15 psi and the high side spikes to around 350 PSI, then the compressor will kick off, pressures normalize, then the system kicks back on, repeating this until I let it idle then the pressures kind of stick around the same. I'm wondering if the orifice tube is clogged full of junk like yours was and the high side is building up with pressure and the compressor is sucking down the low side till the pressure switch sees low pressure and cuts off the compressor. I'm pretty sure the system should be around 50PSI low and 260PSI high or so based on a r134a pressure chart I seen.
If your compressor requires the added oil I am told you put it straight into one of the compressor ports. If you can't fit it all in there I have put the rest into either the accumulator or the low port. I am not a mechanic though and can't guarantee the proper way to do that. That is how I typically go about it though.
Hey man, really appreciate the video! My 02 7.3 has an issue with how hard ac blows. I pinch 2 outside vents for the right feel. Replaced compressor, fan-motor & fan, along with resistor. Only positive results were colder air blowing consistently, but no added wind speed. Did your wind speed from your vents increase after completing the work in this video? Thanks again, dude! 7.3 High-Life!
Thanks for watching! The only thing I did in this video that would have increased the blower output is replacing the evaporator. I dont know what is different on the 7.3, have you looked for a cabin air filter?
Unfortunately, no cabin filter in my model. Which leads me to believe the evaporator may possibly be clogged with residue and restricting the flow of air. Thanks for the quick response, man!
I changed everything but the Evap and i lost all charge in 4 days to where the comp wont kick on.. I dont see any leaks w the dye but never took it apart to check the Evap.
@@LemonySnicket-EUC I think I had a bad o ring where the line goes into the drier. Evap was in pretty bad shape also. I ended up replacing it at the same time I fixed the o ring
Do you have any videos on this as well? I have a bad compressor and a leak but I cannot find the leak so I figure it might be best to replace the high and low pressure lines as well to be safe
I do not think that I do...but if you check out the Playlist on this truck there might be one in there. I've had a lot of cars and filmed a lot of videos haha. I can't remember anymore
You mentioned that anytime the system is opened you need to replace the dryer. I have a 99 V10 and the clutch/pulley bearings on the ac compressor is bad but that's it blows ice cold and works well.. can I just replace the compressor ? Also, thanks for the video
I would always recommend replacing the drier when system is opened. The desiccant can only absorb so much moisture before it is capped out and can't help anymore
I'm going in to change the evaporator (only thing I never inspected or changed, smh) and orifice tube. Everything else is already new a year ago. I shouldn't have to change my drier again right?
I've been trying to find the evaporator temperature sensor, with no luck. No references anywhere. There is one part for sale that is called a cabin air temp sensor, and one supplier has an alternate term "temperature sensor for evaporator". Does this era AC setup have a temp sensor in the evaporator itself, as most all auto AC systems do? My evap to accumulator tube and the accumulator to compressor lines are icing up solid on Max AC, and the condensation stops dripping. The AC still works fine, and it doesn't freeze up on normal AC mode.
I don't know anything about an evaporator temperature sensor. Typically the evap temp is regulated by the orifice tube to my understanding. But I could be wrong.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Hey thanx for responding. Yeah, most cars and also home AC units use a temp sensor embedded in the fins of the evaporator. I think the ‘99-‘07 are different in that way. Do you ever notice it icing up when you run it on Max AC? My accumulator inlet and outlet pipes are getting solid ice on them. Fine in normal mode. And it works fine on Max, even iced up.
I just replaced my evap core using this video...there is some "device" I'll call it mounted inside of the evap housing (this is on a '99 super duty)...it has some resistors on it and a couple of what looks like wires wrapped in a spiral , kind of like a tighly wound spring...I have NO idea what it is, I didn't touch it to do this repair, and I really only gave it a quick "wtf is that" glance...I'm only mentioning it in case it's the thing you're talking about!
@@marks93cobra Hey thanx for replying! As DIYers we can help each other get our vehicles working properly. I suspected that was the blower fan speed resistor you mentioned, and after a web search I found images of exactly what you are talking about with the resistors and coiled wires. It is the fan resistor (Autozone sku 349719 if you want to web search it for your own knowledge, they go bad a lot and mine actually is bad and I wanted to change it, so you’ve saved me some searching!). I have it on good authority (TooManyToys here on utube) that indeed these trucks had no evap temp sensor. Weird. Watch evap replacement videos on other autos and they all (or most all) have a temp sensor embedded in the evap fins. Also, if you notice your fan speed doesn’t seem to change from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, then jumps way up on 4, your resistor is almost certainly the problem.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yeah, the orifice tube simply evaporates the Freon and maintains high pressure in the system before it and by evaporating into the core it drops the pressure beyond it, but has no mechanism for shutting down the compressor when the core freezes up. Most all AC systems (auto and home/commercial) have the temp sensor that shuts down the compressor when the evap core gets too far below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
I ground my third bolt down to a shorter size. Ford is almost great. And great compared to 4th gen dodge; where you have to remove the entire dash and steering drop column.
@@AGuyandHisProjects sorry. I think I wasn’t clear. When you take out the the old core it has rubber and foam around it. The new core comes without it. When my mechanic installed the new core he did not re install the old rubber and foam. So my question is when you replaced your core did you install it without the foam or with? Sorry for not being more descriptive the first time. I think the air is blowing around it and allowing the core to freeze on long drives. Thank you in advance for any idea you may have.
Depends on the compressor. Some will come prefilled with enough oil to take care of your whole system. Others come with zero oil. Others yet will come with "shipping" oil that you have to drain and then add the correct amount to your system. I don't really cover it in the videos because there are too many variables and people take these videos for 100% gospel lol. The oil is something you will have to verify with the compressor you purchase. Even the ones that come pre-filled for your whole system, if you are not replacing your whole system you may need to drain some of the oil out of the compressor prior to install.
Thanks for watching! You have to find out how many ounces came in your new compressor, then subtract that from what is on the label under the hood. Every compressor model/manufacturer is going to come with a different amount of oil already in it
Video is great. If you need to get spoon fed every bit, the project may not be for you. Use your discernment. This guys video/videos are great. Yes, I have to fill in the blanks for the final details, but like he said, have faith and you’ll figure it out once you’re in there.
Did this AC condenser have the coils that run across? Because I need to know if it does maybe this will fit on my 2001 Ford excursion, I bought one from partsgeek and they sent me the wrong one and now they won’t even respond to my emails about wanting my refund.
Thanx, l wish my evaporator was in the engine compartment, your truck is way better engineering wise, than my 97 f150's, AC system, sometimes l wonder about some of fords engineer's designs, Just sayin, lol.. Great video tho, thanx again..
Heck if I remember. I do one of these videos every week and this was a few years ago. That said I have the parts linked in the video description to make it easy for you
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Compressor: amzn.to/3gsLyw3
Condenser: amzn.to/3iAS1XB
Evaporator: amzn.to/31LCJcB
Accumulator/Drier/Orifice tube kit: amzn.to/2ZHc4em
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what were vent temperatures before and after
@@jessierumley4203 varied on time of day but it was closer t o60 before and closer to low 50's after. still not as cold as my other vehicles, but cold enough!
@@AGuyandHisProjectsGreat video sir, and I appreciate your honesty that will save me money. I was wondering if you or any of your friends ever did the heater coil isolation modification and if it help and how much it helped. I have a 2002 and I have been able to get it to 48F on 98 degree days without changing anything but orfice but I am not happy... pull 1hr from the lake when you been on the water all day I like to see at least 40f but I am beginning to think after all you did, that our old truck AC is not big enough for the crew cab and certainly not designed to get us low enough vent temperature no matter where were live. I drove a 2016 and it would freeze you when 98f outside. I think they just didn't design our systems well. I wish someone had an upgraded system they would sell to retrofit our old truck. But I think I am like you I got 160,000 on the old girl and I am not paying 90,000 dollars to these greed fill people, When I was in my twenties you could buy a F250 for 30k on any lot. This country has gone so far downhill....
@@jessierumley4203 yeah so I had the v10 in this video and it wouldn't cool quite as nice as I would like, adequate yes but not icy. I now have a 6.0l powerstroke that has the same a/c system and it blows just about the same as the v10 did lol. I have tried oem compressors and other equipment. I've played around with different orifice tubes and yeah, neither truck will make nipples hard in the summer haha!
Do you have an Amazon link for the Blue AC Disconnect tool you used on the line in the video?
You may not be a certified mechanic, but you are a good mechanic. You have made the best video that I have watched on replacing the A/C compressor and other necessary components. Thank you for taking the time to give a thorough instructional video. It convinced me that I can do this job.
Thanks for the compliment! I really appreciate it, it goes a long ways :). Let me know how it goes!
I am getting ready to do the same thing, same parts but for a 7.3. Don’t ever look to see where the compressor is located on a 7.3. It is a much easier job. I think you were supposed to take the rubber off the other evaporator, but I doubt it matters. Because the compressor is so easy with a 7.3, I have never removed the inner fender, so the evaporator is the hardest step by far. It is really hard to access those back bolts with the inner fender not taken out. I cut the top of box where the evaporator goes so I do not have to remove the back bolts to get it out. I found that I was able to seal the box back better doing them this way when not removing the inner fender. One piece of Mylar tape. Another thing you might consider is during the summer, I disconnect the heater core and connect the water pump with a straight piece of hose, by passing the heater core. Plug the two open ends together and leave some antifreeze in it. You might also want to replace the blender door actuator. Super easy. All you need is a flat screw driver, but make sure the replacement is turned the same as the current one. What happened to mine was the blender door stopped closing completely and the compressor started melting the Teflon in it. When I pulled the orifice, it was completely clogged with black. The only way to fix it is a complete replacement. I tried cleaning out the evaporator, but melted Teflon is stubborn. I will pull the inner fender this time and make sure the air box is sealed.
Thanks for the advice and comment!
Followed this procedure with the same parts a year ago.... Things are still working great and I highly recommend it.
Thanks for checking back in, it's awesome!
THIS VIDEO IS A+ AWESOME. Sorry stuck on caps. No wasted film shots, no wasted words. Good angles and tips. It is so hard to make a video this good... I bought a 2003 f250 super duty V10 from New Holland tractor in Oregon for $2500. And sold my 30K 2014 RAM after tearing offf the dash and redoing the AC in that. I have no idea why this runs so well with 325K miles on it. I like your shocks. I put FOX 2.0 on mine.
Thanks for the comment! I always appreciate the feedback. I have actually never run fox shocks on any of my vehicles, not for any reason other than I just never have. Someday maybe i'll spring for a set
Here's a good tip for you - To save your Condenser coil from damage Simply install a house screen with frame in front of the coil assembly. On my 2008 Super Duty someone did this before I purchased the truck - and WOW! what a saver from buggs and road rash gravel getting in and plugging the air flow...
I'm sure that would keep debries away yep, as long as it doesn't starve for air then it sounds like a great idea!
The road 1 tires are Excellent! Got 50,000 miles on mine, and still look new
That's what I like to hear! I have a jeep now as well and contemplating putting these on there too
Thanks for the video. I performed this exact proceedure Except on diesels the Compressor is at the very top. Super easy. My truck is a 2000 Ford F-250 Super duty 7.3 Power stroke. Same color as this picture. Just followed this video and installed UAC condenser, Compressor, Dryer and evaporator. it was all one kit for $247 from Rock Auto... The evaporator was a little challenging. But compressor, dryer and condenser was easy peasy. it's 101 outside today in Texas and my AC is blowing 45 Degrees. Everything worked like it should. Things to consider having on hand... when you change the Evaporator, get some updated insulation and or tape to cover the Air Box. Super easy to put a good insulation job on it while it's out of the truck. Under time crunch I put it all back together. So I will come back and do the best I can on better insulation. Right now, I am happy with it. I will try to check back in a year. Feel free to ask questions. Good luck ... YMMV.
Glad I could help! Thanks for the comment and thoughts to help others out :)
Almost 1 year later, I can tell you that the system is still working great.... Very Happy I did this....I live in Texas and it gets hot.....Just had a very hot day in August and it worked very well... My insulation job didn't last.... but overall the system performs very well. Very happy with my system and highly recommend this scenario.
The pressure switch that is on the hoses that connect to the compressor.....Why didn't Ford allow for the connecting plug to FACE you instead of facing AWAY from you. AT LEAST it was that way on my truck. What a PITA!! Thanks Ford engineers...I used a dentist mirror and a hook tool to get it out..
Always some frustration haha
Nice video man! I was told a 13mm flex head ratcheting wrench isn’t a key tool for this compressor job, don’t know if that makes sense but thought I’d throw it out there. Thanks for the video man, it will help me tons when I finally break down and do all the work my truck needs.
Thanks for watching, glad I help!
So thank you, you literally just saved me $900 bucks
You are most welcome! This is exactly why I started filming my projects. Glad I can help
Can’t thank you enough for this video. Bought an older Excursion with dead AC. Was planning to do this, but wasn’t sure what I would be getting into.
Very glad I can help! Let me know how it goes!
@@AGuyandHisProjects OMG. That evaporator cover. I am having a hell of a time. Seems like Ford could have put locators on the bottom and then secured with bolts on the top. Unbelievable.
@@winstonsmith3685 hahahaha I do not disagree! I think I ended up ripping the wheel well liner out and getting at some of them from the bottom...I think. I've done a few of these and the different vehicles kinda mesh together noe
Thanks for the video, but some of your thoughts on not showing some of the details while replacing the Evaporator Core being stupid is not so stupid. We just swapped out ours yesterday...It took total of 4 hours. Details such as removing the fender liner which was a nightmare as it did not want to come out with 2 of us working on it. I think we had about 14 or so screws to find and remove, all the hoses, accumulator, etc has to be removed. Both my son-in-law and I turn wrenches on almost all repairs to our vehicles and this one was a bit of a challenge. But rewarding in the end. Just glad I got the quick view at least to motivate me to do this repair. I am sure the repair shop would have charged me an entire day's labor.
Thanks for watching and the comment! Yeah I have to pick and choose how many details to show as the videos start getting extremely long lol. Glad you were able to figure it out and end up with that feeling of accomplishment! Always feels good when you are finished and know you saved a bunch of dough
Nice! I will be doing this coming up spring 2021. Right now it's November 2020 and I have plenty of time to get the parts. Whenever I do this job, this is the video I will be using. Except Mines a 5.4
Thanks for watching! I tried to do a thorough job on this video for that very purpose. Please remember though, I am not a mechanic nor do I have any professional experience. How close are the 6.8l and 5.4l layouts? Do they look similar?
Thanks. Finally a video where people aren't just pointing to shit on the compressor they already installed, lol!
Haha glad I can help!
Great video
I made a little cut out in the fender plastic to access the AC compressor line screw, Instead of removing it
Heck yeah! Sometimes they can be that big of a PIA that I can see that being worth it lol
I liked your comment on the third bolt on the compressor-hitting the shroud under it. I got my "one direction" ratchet caght in no mans land. Used a grinder. Cut BRAKE LINE! Ordered motorcraft BRTF-3 to rplace. Only 83 bucks on Amazon. (I was trying to use good finger-thinking and let my disc wander. Your video is awesome BTW.
Thanks a lot! Yeah, I've made the one way ratchet mistake more than I care to admit hahaha
@@AGuyandHisProjects Thank you for saying that. I thought I was the only one. It was an Ikon, not my Snapon, I grinded it off, and it still WORKS! I ground down the metal underneath afterwards as I wait for new brake line. I should have just made a brake line repair. But this way I'll bleed brakes and replace front calipers as well.
Yes I have the exact same truck. I am not looking forward to he evaporator core. I was warned that this is the most challenging part off the total
Haha yeah, getting in there is a bit squishy and moving things around is a bit tricky...but doable
Lube makes life a lot easier in general. Wise words.
Lol you are not wrong!
Good video. Only thought was that it is much nicer that the diesel has it's AC pump on top of the motor so it's little easier to access.
haha, Diesels seem to make everything more difficult in some way or another.
nice vid. Helpful: restate fastener sizing on components.. I saw the gunked up orfice,, but did NOT see you flush the lines. or any remaining components (you replaced yours) Most warranties are voided without doing so. thanks
Thanks for the tips! I kinda forget about warrenties...I honestly don't think I've ever cashed in on one lol
Very good video, thanks. My '99 F350 v10 needs this job, your video made it look easy.
Thanks for watching and the compliment! To be 100% honest...this was the easiest a/c replacement I have done. Everything is very accessible on this truck. Some other vehicles can be a monster task lol
Nice video very succinct
Thanks! Hope it helped :)
For the belt tensioner, there is a kickstand on the bottom of it. Its definitely a knuckle saver. Google image for the reference.
Interesting, I'll have to look into that!
Diesel tech Ron has a video showing the little spring loaded tab about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long on the bottom passenger side of the tensioner that you push in while holding the tensioner with a breaker bar or the special tool and then while still holding the tab in you release the tensioner and it is held in place to get the belt off. I’ve seen it in a few videos where they take the belt off. You can reach under the tensioner on the lower passengers side of it ( bottom right corner if you are facing forward towards the front of the truck) and feel around for the tab. You push in and you can feel it give under the light spring tension on it.
My son needs to do this to his F250.
When the a/c isn't working it makes for a rough drive lol
Do you have links to the O-ring kit you have and also for the plastic tool you used to separate the tubing that holds the orifice tube together?
O ring kit is just a conglomerate of various kits I've bought. Your local auto parts store probably sells a variety pack. As far as the plastic tool it is a refrigerant line disconnect tool.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Thanks got all my parts replaced.
Important to know, if it’s a 5.4 and not a v10, there are bolt holes on the crossmember to go up through with an extension to remove the 3 bolts. It’s in front of the cross memeberon the v10. Dealing with it now
On mine the hole doesn't quite line up for the third bolt. I can only get a wrench on it which means no leverage.
Must be doing something wrong.
@@Bionicjoe i just ran into that because the bottoms were swapped out at some point and 13mm heads because they were standard bolts. Pita
Good for posting, thanks!
Very good gonna do the same thing on my 7.3 over the weekendWhat is a really rough range on the parts pricing. I’ll probably end up buying my parts through Napa since they are close
Thanks for watching! Check out the parts list in the video description and that should get you close
How did it go? Need to do it on my 2001 f350 7.3
@@stitchthisditchthat259 very well thanks for asking. I replaced all parts my 16yr old son helped and we both learned a lot. For refrigerant we were able to get a scale a pump gauges and refrigerant from an HVAC friend. Blowing nice cold air wife’s happy!
@@williamwmcqiv6157 lucky man unfortunately for me discovered I have no ac package on my truck no condenser or anything else no ac controls in cab looks like I’ll continue to cook until winter in the Midwest here
@@stitchthisditchthat259 Ouch..I once knew a guy who ripped out his ac in az cuz he only used his truck to get to work and he could get there before it would cool down. His logic…. it made better sense to rip it out instead of …just not use it.
Great job. I need to do my 7.3 soon
Thanks! The location of things are a bit different on the 7.3 but the process should be similar
Not gonna show you how to recover because I vented my shit strait to atmosphere lol.
Haha, no sir!
Good stuff Mainerd. Just got finished doing the cylinder head temp sensor and all related parts including the alternator (bearing noise). Just after I got everything done.... AC system failed on my 03 Excursion. Guess what's next.
Haha it's a never ending battle!
Great vid, i see you went aftermarket on all of it. where did you get the accum./drier tube o rings at ? and 1 more if may, on the top of accum/drier itself next to the two main lines/tubes is a port sticking up (mine has a black cap on it), could you tell me what that is ?
Thanks! I believe I have all the parts linked in the video description and the top pinned comment. The black cap covers a port to hook gauges up to
I think I'm having the same issue with the orifice tube clogged on my 2000 F350 5.4, the A/C works at idle but once I get driving the A/C kicks off and on. I thought it was just low on refrigerant but when I charged the system more now the clutch slips when I rev the engine and only engages at idle. I've got a video on my channel of what I'm seeing. Might just go ahead and do this and replace the whole system.
Sounds like an interesting problem you have there. Maybe a weak clutch or loose wire somewhere?
@@AGuyandHisProjects Maybe? It does seem to lead to a bad clutch that it slips, but when I set the RPM to around 2500-3k like I'm running down the highway the low side drops way down to around 10-15 psi and the high side spikes to around 350 PSI, then the compressor will kick off, pressures normalize, then the system kicks back on, repeating this until I let it idle then the pressures kind of stick around the same. I'm wondering if the orifice tube is clogged full of junk like yours was and the high side is building up with pressure and the compressor is sucking down the low side till the pressure switch sees low pressure and cuts off the compressor. I'm pretty sure the system should be around 50PSI low and 260PSI high or so based on a r134a pressure chart I seen.
Yeah, I think that could be a fair guess, wouldn't hurt to check that before replacing the entire system!
You didn’t include The Orifice tube with the parts list
Thanks for pointing that out, I'll add a link when I get home!
I’m thinking I may have a problem finding a shop wanting to charge the system if they didn’t do the work. Anyone have thoughts on that?
If concerned I'd call a shop ahead of time to verify!
Thank you for this video. How and where is oil added?
If your compressor requires the added oil I am told you put it straight into one of the compressor ports. If you can't fit it all in there I have put the rest into either the accumulator or the low port. I am not a mechanic though and can't guarantee the proper way to do that. That is how I typically go about it though.
Hey man, really appreciate the video! My 02 7.3 has an issue with how hard ac blows. I pinch 2 outside vents for the right feel. Replaced compressor, fan-motor & fan, along with resistor. Only positive results were colder air blowing consistently, but no added wind speed. Did your wind speed from your vents increase after completing the work in this video? Thanks again, dude! 7.3 High-Life!
Thanks for watching! The only thing I did in this video that would have increased the blower output is replacing the evaporator. I dont know what is different on the 7.3, have you looked for a cabin air filter?
Unfortunately, no cabin filter in my model. Which leads me to believe the evaporator may possibly be clogged with residue and restricting the flow of air. Thanks for the quick response, man!
Keep in Mind I am not a mechanic, but possibly weak blower motor or resistor as well?
Thank you. good video.
You are most welcome. Hope it helped!
I changed everything but the Evap and i lost all charge in 4 days to where the comp wont kick on.. I dont see any leaks w the dye but never took it apart to check the Evap.
Dang, always sucks when it doesn't work out :/
Did you figure it out ?
@@LemonySnicket-EUC I think I had a bad o ring where the line goes into the drier. Evap was in pretty bad shape also. I ended up replacing it at the same time I fixed the o ring
hello, is it easy to replace the ac lines/hoses as well while replacing the other components?
Yeppers!
Do you have any videos on this as well? I have a bad compressor and a leak but I cannot find the leak so I figure it might be best to replace the high and low pressure lines as well to be safe
I do not think that I do...but if you check out the Playlist on this truck there might be one in there. I've had a lot of cars and filmed a lot of videos haha. I can't remember anymore
Notice you didnt change the lines, did you inspect them or are they good forever ? They are aluminum right ?
I opted to keep them in place after a flush
Maybe a dumb question but do I need to get the system vacuumed out before I break everything apart?
You gotta recover the refrigerant before opening the system. Then vacuum out all the air/moisture before filling it back up
You mentioned that anytime the system is opened you need to replace the dryer. I have a 99 V10 and the clutch/pulley bearings on the ac compressor is bad but that's it blows ice cold and works well.. can I just replace the compressor ? Also, thanks for the video
I would always recommend replacing the drier when system is opened. The desiccant can only absorb so much moisture before it is capped out and can't help anymore
I'm going in to change the evaporator (only thing I never inspected or changed, smh) and orifice tube. Everything else is already new a year ago. I shouldn't have to change my drier again right?
Yeppers! Everytime you open the system it is a good idea to change it. It absorbs moisture and everytime you open system you introduce more
I've been trying to find the evaporator temperature sensor, with no luck. No references anywhere. There is one part for sale that is called a cabin air temp sensor, and one supplier has an alternate term "temperature sensor for evaporator". Does this era AC setup have a temp sensor in the evaporator itself, as most all auto AC systems do? My evap to accumulator tube and the accumulator to compressor lines are icing up solid on Max AC, and the condensation stops dripping. The AC still works fine, and it doesn't freeze up on normal AC mode.
I don't know anything about an evaporator temperature sensor. Typically the evap temp is regulated by the orifice tube to my understanding. But I could be wrong.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Hey thanx for responding. Yeah, most cars and also home AC units use a temp sensor embedded in the fins of the evaporator. I think the ‘99-‘07 are different in that way. Do you ever notice it icing up when you run it on Max AC? My accumulator inlet and outlet pipes are getting solid ice on them. Fine in normal mode. And it works fine on Max, even iced up.
I just replaced my evap core using this video...there is some "device" I'll call it mounted inside of the evap housing (this is on a '99 super duty)...it has some resistors on it and a couple of what looks like wires wrapped in a spiral , kind of like a tighly wound spring...I have NO idea what it is, I didn't touch it to do this repair, and I really only gave it a quick "wtf is that" glance...I'm only mentioning it in case it's the thing you're talking about!
@@marks93cobra Hey thanx for replying! As DIYers we can help each other get our vehicles working properly. I suspected that was the blower fan speed resistor you mentioned, and after a web search I found images of exactly what you are talking about with the resistors and coiled wires. It is the fan resistor (Autozone sku 349719 if you want to web search it for your own knowledge, they go bad a lot and mine actually is bad and I wanted to change it, so you’ve saved me some searching!). I have it on good authority (TooManyToys here on utube) that indeed these trucks had no evap temp sensor. Weird. Watch evap replacement videos on other autos and they all (or most all) have a temp sensor embedded in the evap fins. Also, if you notice your fan speed doesn’t seem to change from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, then jumps way up on 4, your resistor is almost certainly the problem.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yeah, the orifice tube simply evaporates the Freon and maintains high pressure in the system before it and by evaporating into the core it drops the pressure beyond it, but has no mechanism for shutting down the compressor when the core freezes up. Most all AC systems (auto and home/commercial) have the temp sensor that shuts down the compressor when the evap core gets too far below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
what was the full cost of everything? great video!
Oh shoot I don't remember. I have it all linked in description though if you wanted to throw it all in your cart to see it all added together. Thanks!
Idk if you mentioned it. If you already answered my question in the video, I apologize.
Before replacing these parts, did you drain out the Freon?
You are legally supposed to "recover" the refrigerant yes.
All that and you didn't replace the low pressure switch lol. Good video though.👍
Thanks for the comment! No need to, if ot ever fails it is a pretty easy fix though.
Amazing Content. Thankyou!
You are most welcome!
I ground my third bolt down to a shorter size. Ford is almost great. And great compared to 4th gen dodge; where you have to remove the entire dash and steering drop column.
I'm not a big fan of anything downtime from Mopar. They do some dumb stuff on the engineering side haha
thank you
You are most welcome!
Great video. One question. Did you put the rubber gasket from the old core on the new core?. My mechanic replaced my core and didn’t replace.
I tend to not re-use any gaskets unless I absolutely have to.
@@AGuyandHisProjects sorry. I think I wasn’t clear. When you take out the the old core it has rubber and foam around it. The new core comes without it. When my mechanic installed the new core he did not re install the old rubber and foam. So my question is when you replaced your core did you install it without the foam or with? Sorry for not being more descriptive the first time. I think the air is blowing around it and allowing the core to freeze on long drives. Thank you in advance for any idea you may have.
Do you have a video on replacing the body bushings?
Not yet, bit they are in my future!
You didn't have to add any oil?
Depends on the compressor. Some will come prefilled with enough oil to take care of your whole system. Others come with zero oil. Others yet will come with "shipping" oil that you have to drain and then add the correct amount to your system. I don't really cover it in the videos because there are too many variables and people take these videos for 100% gospel lol. The oil is something you will have to verify with the compressor you purchase. Even the ones that come pre-filled for your whole system, if you are not replacing your whole system you may need to drain some of the oil out of the compressor prior to install.
The best👍
Thanks!
That orifice tube :O
Hahaha yeah it was lovely
How many ounces of oil did you add to the compressor ? Need to change the compressor on my 7.3
Thanks for watching! You have to find out how many ounces came in your new compressor, then subtract that from what is on the label under the hood. Every compressor model/manufacturer is going to come with a different amount of oil already in it
The brand uac condenser 2 bad .waiting for third to arrive from summit auto
That's a bummer
I love how you dont even show where the bolts are. so helpful.
Thanks for watching! Yeah video was getting long. When you get in there you will find them! Have faith in yourself and you'll make it :)
Video is great. If you need to get spoon fed every bit, the project may not be for you. Use your discernment. This guys video/videos are great. Yes, I have to fill in the blanks for the final details, but like he said, have faith and you’ll figure it out once you’re in there.
Any issues with the open line-sets when spraying all that water?
You can tape them up if yiu want. Otherwise throw it on the vacuum and let it go for pretty much forever to remove the moisture
Nice video
I appreciate that, thanks!
Did you have to vacuum the system before re adding the refridgerent?
Yes, that is mandatory! Only way to get all the moisture out of the system after having it open.
Type of ratchets did you use and extensions lmk
Oh crap, it has been a couple of minutes and I don't remember haha
Great video. You anywhere near Houston, Texas? I'll pay you to fix mine. I've got a 2016 F-250 6.2L gasser
Haha you aren't the first person to ask! I'm in South Dakota now
I’m located in Houston
If I drive to South Dakota will you redo the entire system .?? @@AGuyandHisProjects
Haha! I'm not a mechanic so I don't hire out
Did this AC condenser have the coils that run across? Because I need to know if it does maybe this will fit on my 2001 Ford excursion, I bought one from partsgeek and they sent me the wrong one and now they won’t even respond to my emails about wanting my refund.
Thanks I know where not to get one
I’ll never order from parts geek, they’re customer service is their email, which they never reply to
Shoot I don't remember now! I sold the v10 and went to a 6.0l and I wish I could remember for you
What step stool platform thing is that?
I don't know the brand off the top of my head, but I bought it at home depot, it was over by the ladders. It has been a very worthwhile purchase!
Thanx,
l wish my evaporator was in the engine compartment, your truck is way better engineering wise, than my 97 f150's, AC system, sometimes l wonder about some of fords engineer's designs,
Just sayin, lol..
Great video tho, thanx again..
Haha, I wonder about all of the engineers out there
Hey are those shocks upside down?
No sir! That being said I'm not 100$ sure that it matters all that much. Could be wrong
That is the way Bilstein told me to install mine. There are drain holes in the shock boot so they go down. @@AGuyandHisProjects
Sucks for you the 7.3 is up on top
Haha I know right!
Seen lots of these like they and Wonder why they put them on the bottom instead of leaving them up top
@@stevenmcc2119 never can tell with engineers haha. They get paid a lot of money to make life miserable for the blue collar guys lol
Maax
👍
How much was the parts?
Heck if I remember. I do one of these videos every week and this was a few years ago. That said I have the parts linked in the video description to make it easy for you
Where is the drain line
Are you talking about for the evaporator?
So where the FUCK do you put the 8oz of pag46.......
In the compressor ideally. If not you can drop some into the dryer...that is what I do anyway
yes cuz in a brand new compressor only about 4.5 oz. fit
Lol it’s called an evaporator CORE not COIL
Thanks for watching! Depends on what part of the country you are from I suppose lol. The terms are used interchangeably here.