Great video. About 3 years ago, I got fed up with the wiring on my '68 Ford 5000 and as a summer project, my sons and I did a complete overhaul. replaced the points and coil with a Pertronics setup which allows a full 12v to the coil now. Generator and voltage regulator were replaced with an alternator. The location of the voltage regulator was perfect for a fuse box. Replaced all the lights from the headlights to the dash lights with LED replacements. Added LED work lights and LED strobes up on the canopy, so now I have great 360 degree light around the tractor at night- perfect for snow removal. And then, we custom wired everything. I completely restored the rear light which took some significant work as the inside of the lens was caked with 50 years of crud. I also redid the factory dash. I didn't like the replacements with extra light sockets. It also took some work and some careful silicone work to reseal it again. But the restored dash with the LEDs looks fantastic. My youngest son (11 at the time) worked out the fuse values for each circuit. Was a perfect "real world" use of math for him. So, the dash is it's own circuit along with the ignition. The headlight switch, the new switches for the strobes and front and rear work lights are all on their own circuits. A huge automotive connector was used above the fuel tank so that the tractor can easily be split. Also wired in a pigtail so that my Battery Minder charger/conditioner can be easily connected. All in all, the upgrades made the machine far more reliable, the lights are now awesome, and almost everything works as it should. My only issue was that the alternator drives the Proof Meter too fast. As a result, I installed a tach with hour meter up under the canopy to have a true value
One of the best sites for information about this nice old tractors. My steeringgearbox has much play, maybe at some day we will see a video troubleshoot for this to fix it. Thanks for your help
The gear box is adjustable and it's not a hard job at all. Search for it on the net and see what you can find. This is a generic adjustment. Look for an old car, truck, or tractor manual. Adjust the worm shaft first then the sector adjustment. First thing is to inspect all steering components to see if anything is worn causing the excess play.
LOL Mice have found the wiring on all of the equipment on my farm tasty at times. As a busy farmer that relies on vintage equipment for all of my tasks, I must drop a thank you for the work you do on this channel. Your videos have helped me quite a few times in the past to get my old stuff going. Happy new year and god bless!
Rachel, I remember watching your father on his JD model B engine rebuild video from YEARS ago. Good to see your parents passed on the mechanical savvy knowledge…..Keep up the good work ethic!
Your videos helped us a lot. 1000 thanks! You explain everything so well. I love it when Rachel says "2000 3000 and 4000. That sounds so sweet 🤗. Greetings from Bavaria, Germany ✌
Thanks! I just ordered my full kit! Heck of a lot better that messing with the mess of old wires spliced and jumped my the 40 years of previous owners and my self.
Wow, I can just imagine Grandpa and little Rachel working on a tractor. 🥳 I would like to see a tour in the factory where the new dash and other parts are made. 🐬 I did not see the new dash running in action?
I've just bought a one owner diesel 3910 II Ford tractor with 1400 hours from a neighbor. Good shape but a few issues, starter/solenoid or ignition switch, have a small power steering leak and a small leak at injector pump. First I'll completely service it before using it. Received an Operators Manual today, but I can't find information on the information I find under the hood, Tractor # BB20195, Model CA414C, ....Where can I find this and year it was made. Thanks and enjoy your videos.
Is there a tractor make or model that is the most reliable, easy to fix in your opinion (old or new)? Or a couple of models that stand out over the test of time in your opinion(s)?
At 14:04, those are called Bayonet connector bulbs. At 20:40, it should not be called Yellow/Red, but correctly called Yellow with Red stripe. Same for the rest.
Hello ! I have a request, many of us have older Fords around the 1960s with Select o Speed, can you show in detail how these work and how to repair and adjust them correctly. There are probably many of these tractors that are unused because people don't dare or understand how to maintain and repair them. It would be appreciated if you could address this thoroughly in future films. Thank you in advance.
I have 1969 ford 3000 3 cylinder gas engine. And i used it y months ago ran pretty good. I went to go start it the kther day and i have no start. I think i have to replace my distributor cuz the wire that comes out of it feels like it is broken inside the coating of The wire and unfortunately it's broken right up close to where the rubber boot is that goes inside the distributor so I'm unable to just place in a new wire. Wish you guys were closer I'd have you fix my drive to her and find out what's wrong with it.
Greetings from Denmark i got a Ford 3000 diesel and i am confused about the charge lamp in the dashboard, is it good ore bad if the lamp Light up after the engine gas been started up?
I have a 1970 Ford tractor 2000 My question is why is my new starter dragging when I turn off my ignition is still drags I took off the cables to get the tractor to stop I'm thinking it can be the ignition switch second question is when I did hook up the battery cables My tractor started without the ignition being on gets me to think that I might need a new ignition switch puzzled
Any ideas about changing a belt connected to alternator, fan, and one more in a Ford 3910 tractor with a p.t.o. without pulling the whole front end off? Researched but can't to find anyone/anything that helps. Initially pulled off the bolts off one pulley off the bottom and was able to move the spline forward. There seems to be enough clearance to get the belt behind but can't seem to get it over the pulley. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thank you!
I have a gas 1980 2600 I can’t find a wiring harness and diagram for this tractor any where . Great tractor just needs wiring but it’ll just be a high priced yard art now
Hello, so in a bit of a pickle. i have a 72 Ford 2000 gas 3 cylinder and I have replaced my wiring harness as well as a new generator and voltage regulator all from your site so I know they are all working. It still doesn’t seem to be charging my battery. My voltage light still stays on and if I remove my negative from the battery with the tractor running it cuts out. I’m at a loss here, any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi Rachel.and Dan . Two questions . I have a Diesel Ford 5000 1- where is the hidraulic pump ( have no power lifting hay bales ) Where can I get a manual for the F 5000
Put a question on your tune-up video from last year, but this one is more current. Do you have a source for a throttle spring for the Holley on a 1968 Ford 3000?
If you look on the bottom of your tractor there is a drain nut for that and then there's one in the middle on the side of the tractor that's the fill up just keep putting gear oil in it until it goes clear then cut your bottom nut and fill it up until it starts coming out that side nut you're full you're fresh you're finished❤
All my tractors are industrial tractors (MF-202 and JD 302A). Will you ever do any videos on them? I know that my MF is close to a TO35 but I don't know the ag version of the JD302A (do you know?). Also, I made the mistake of buying tractors that needed new rear tires- so I need 4 14.9-24 tires. 2 years ago, these tires were $400 ish a-piece so I put it off. Now they're going for $800-$1200 a-piece. Surely there is a way to not spend $3200 and get some tires (and no, new tubes won't solve this. Any ideas? Would love to get your advice!!!!
You learned a lesson the hard way. Everything increases over time. Odd ball industrial tire sizes especially. Step into a Carlisle. As for industrial... highly doubt there is much if any difference beyond implement accessories. There was another import tire brand I've heard of... but can't remember at the moment. It will probably come to me when I stop trying to remember it.
Sorry to bother you again. Ford 3000 hydraulic brain has a spring next to the press valve. Does it need to be removed in all of them? This bow is missing in some videos, thank you again
Hello lets me thanks so much for your videos and also you father ls a master I iam a owner of a ford 4000 diesel 1972 and its a four whel drive i have this equipment in costa rica central america carring palm oil fruit in a farm I love so much this much this machine
This test at 4:45 of the video does not prove that the regulator is functional. It shows that the field and dynamo wiring is intact, but does not prove the electrical operation of the cut-out, and the voltage and current relays. The voltage shown is only armature residual which on a lucas generator is 2 to 3 volts. Try fixing components instead of replacing them.
It’s not a bad idea to use dielectric grease on all those electrical connections before you plug them in. Keeps corrosion at bay so ten years down the road when the ignition switch needs replaced, it all unplugs like it was new.
I have Ford 4000 and it has a dc generator. . When I start the engine, the charging light stays on as long as I increase rpm enough. The charging voltage is still only 12.5-13v. The generator is rather new and so is the regulator and wiring. I was wondering are these dc generators just so lazy... Many people have upgraded to ac alternator taken from a car...
That sounds correct to me. The generator produces less volts then a alternator would. So the volts your getting is right. They definitely charge at a slower rate. I also have to Ford tractor I have 1969 3000. With the industrial size front bucket loader. Absolutely love that old girl.
you had me until you said to pull the battery cable off while running to test the charging system. you put a voltage spike through the system and could burn out some parts.
You can do a load test without a load tester. Just hook up your volt meter to the battery and crank the engine over and watch your voltage. Poor man's load tester.
A true load test is checking the cranking amps. The tester creates a dead short pulling on all the cranking amps available. You can have a battery that wont crank a tractor but enough voltage to turn on lights or a radio etc.
@@jdubya54 Out of all the years I've been an automotive I've never seen a battery load tester that test amps. They always test volts. Only time I ever seen anybody doing amp draw test was to see if a starter was bad.
You absolutely cannot check an alternator by disconnecting the battery cable while it's running! If your regulator loses ground a good alternator can put out 100 volts at high rpm! Headlights go off like flash cubes. Internal alternator wiring looks like burnt shredded wheat, etc. I'm in central Indiana. If you want to learn mechanic work and pay me a small but reasonable wage I'll drive up there and teach you how to rebuild engines, transmissions, differentials, carburetors, starters, alternators, generators, electrical diagnosis etc etc. Somebody could get hurt and/or cause serious damage to their equipment if they follow your videos.
You can't just generate current. It has to go somewhere. That's where the load comes in. Alternators and generators are rated by Amp output at the specified voltage. Testing equipment on the bench or vehicle requires a carbon pile to load or drop the output resistance. If the voltage regulator is working and voltage is at the specified range Ohms law says amperage will increase and that's what we need to check. You can disassemble, clean, and play with an ohm meter but you won't know if it's going to perform. When it's done properly you might show 40 Amps @ 7+ volts for 6 volt system or 14+ volts for 12 volt system. You have to produce more than nominal voltage to overcome resistance in the wiring and the battery itself. Even Harbor Freight has a load tester than can impose a quick load on your charging system. This is the electrical equivalent of an engine dyno. You put a load on it at operating rpm to check the output. Stator windings can actually be checked on the bench when disassembled. Connect a battery and Amp meter directly to the windings just for a second.3 wires have 3 ways to connect so there are 3 test combinations. If you read 60 Amp draw its output will be 60 Amp. 90 Amp Alternator will have 90 Amp draw etc.
Great video.
About 3 years ago, I got fed up with the wiring on my '68 Ford 5000 and as a summer project, my sons and I did a complete overhaul.
replaced the points and coil with a Pertronics setup which allows a full 12v to the coil now. Generator and voltage regulator were replaced with an alternator. The location of the voltage regulator was perfect for a fuse box. Replaced all the lights from the headlights to the dash lights with LED replacements. Added LED work lights and LED strobes up on the canopy, so now I have great 360 degree light around the tractor at night- perfect for snow removal. And then, we custom wired everything.
I completely restored the rear light which took some significant work as the inside of the lens was caked with 50 years of crud. I also redid the factory dash. I didn't like the replacements with extra light sockets. It also took some work and some careful silicone work to reseal it again. But the restored dash with the LEDs looks fantastic.
My youngest son (11 at the time) worked out the fuse values for each circuit. Was a perfect "real world" use of math for him. So, the dash is it's own circuit along with the ignition. The headlight switch, the new switches for the strobes and front and rear work lights are all on their own circuits. A huge automotive connector was used above the fuel tank so that the tractor can easily be split. Also wired in a pigtail so that my Battery Minder charger/conditioner can be easily connected.
All in all, the upgrades made the machine far more reliable, the lights are now awesome, and almost everything works as it should. My only issue was that the alternator drives the Proof Meter too fast. As a result, I installed a tach with hour meter up under the canopy to have a true value
Dang I wish you had made a video of this. I have a 1966 ford 4000 and I’m wanting to redo the wiring.
you are the best online tractor help very humble
One of the best sites for information about this nice old tractors. My steeringgearbox has much play, maybe at some day we will see a video troubleshoot for this to fix it. Thanks for your help
The gear box is adjustable and it's not a hard job at all. Search for it on the net and see what you can find. This is a generic adjustment. Look for an old car, truck, or tractor manual. Adjust the worm shaft first then the sector adjustment. First thing is to inspect all steering components to see if anything is worn causing the excess play.
You guys are awesome, my father in law tractors need work and your videos are the best for our needs. Thank you so much for sharing.
LOL Mice have found the wiring on all of the equipment on my farm tasty at times. As a busy farmer that relies on vintage equipment for all of my tasks, I must drop a thank you for the work you do on this channel. Your videos have helped me quite a few times in the past to get my old stuff going. Happy new year and god bless!
!!!! You guys make my day after all of my wire burn and now i found your channel!!😊 thanks
Rachel, I remember watching your father on his JD model B engine rebuild video from YEARS ago. Good to see your parents passed on the mechanical savvy knowledge…..Keep up the good work ethic!
Your videos helped us a lot. 1000 thanks! You explain everything so well. I love it when Rachel says "2000 3000 and 4000. That sounds so sweet 🤗. Greetings from Bavaria, Germany ✌
Thanks! I just ordered my full kit! Heck of a lot better that messing with the mess of old wires spliced and jumped my the 40 years of previous owners and my self.
Nice video! Love when you work on the 3,000’s
Somehow y'all always have just the right video for my tractor ... thanks! great stuff and tons of details
Another great job! And always helpful information! Keep up the great work 👍👍👍
Fantastic video, I have a Ford 2000 I’ll definitely utilize this information. Thank you very much!
Thanks for this awesome tutorial video. It will make my life easier.
like all you both do for these old fords. so helpful.
Wow, I can just imagine Grandpa and little Rachel working on a tractor. 🥳 I would like to see a tour in the factory where the new dash and other parts are made. 🐬
I did not see the new dash running in action?
Love my old Ford 2000. Would love to see a alternator conversion kit for these tractors as well.
Really enjoy your videos. Would love to see a power steering column rebuild/refresh….❤️our 3000 diesel, hate it’s failing p/s
Do you have a video of changing a generator charging system to a alternator charging system for ford 4000 3 cylinder engines!!
I've just bought a one owner diesel 3910 II Ford tractor with 1400 hours from a neighbor.
Good shape but a few issues, starter/solenoid or ignition switch, have a small power steering leak and a small leak at injector pump.
First I'll completely service it before using it. Received an Operators Manual today, but I can't find information on the information I find under the hood, Tractor # BB20195, Model CA414C, ....Where can I find this and year it was made.
Thanks and enjoy your videos.
Good job y'all! Very thorough!
I don’t have one of these tractors, but I’m leaving this comment for the algorithm!
Is there a tractor make or model that is the most reliable, easy to fix in your opinion (old or new)? Or a couple of models that stand out over the test of time in your opinion(s)?
At 14:04, those are called Bayonet connector bulbs. At 20:40, it should not be called Yellow/Red, but correctly called Yellow with Red stripe. Same for the rest.
Hello ! I have a request,
many of us have older Fords around the 1960s with Select o Speed, can you show in detail how these work and how to repair and adjust them correctly.
There are probably many of these tractors that are unused because people don't dare or understand how to maintain and repair them. It would be appreciated if you could address this thoroughly in future films.
Thank you in advance.
Agreed!
Take the negative battery terminal off test works only for a gasoline
I have 1969 ford 3000 3 cylinder gas engine. And i used it y months ago ran pretty good. I went to go start it the kther day and i have no start. I think i have to replace my distributor cuz the wire that comes out of it feels like it is broken inside the coating of The wire and unfortunately it's broken right up close to where the rubber boot is that goes inside the distributor so I'm unable to just place in a new wire. Wish you guys were closer I'd have you fix my drive to her and find out what's wrong with it.
Very good video. Thank you.
Can I change my tac. To electronic instead of the cable
Greetings from Denmark i got a Ford 3000 diesel and i am confused about the charge lamp in the dashboard, is it good ore bad if the lamp Light up after the engine gas been started up?
I have a 1970 Ford tractor 2000 My question is why is my new starter dragging when I turn off my ignition is still drags I took off the cables to get the tractor to stop I'm thinking it can be the ignition switch second question is when I did hook up the battery cables My tractor started without the ignition being on gets me to think that I might need a new ignition switch puzzled
Any ideas about changing a belt connected to alternator, fan, and one more in a Ford 3910 tractor with a p.t.o. without pulling the whole front end off? Researched but can't to find anyone/anything that helps. Initially pulled off the bolts off one pulley off the bottom and was able to move the spline forward. There seems to be enough clearance to get the belt behind but can't seem to get it over the pulley. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thank you!
I have a gas 1980 2600 I can’t find a wiring harness and diagram for this tractor any where . Great tractor just needs wiring but it’ll just be a high priced yard art now
Very nice vedio ❤
Hello, so in a bit of a pickle. i have a 72 Ford 2000 gas 3 cylinder and I have replaced my wiring harness as well as a new generator and voltage regulator all from your site so I know they are all working. It still doesn’t seem to be charging my battery. My voltage light still stays on and if I remove my negative from the battery with the tractor running it cuts out. I’m at a loss here, any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Hi Rachel.and Dan .
Two questions .
I have a Diesel Ford 5000
1- where is the hidraulic pump ( have no power lifting hay bales )
Where can I get a manual for the F 5000
Put a question on your tune-up video from last year, but this one is more current. Do you have a source for a throttle spring for the Holley on a 1968 Ford 3000?
Great job, I have a Ford 3000 diesel, and transmission oil is white from moisture how can I get all that out before putting in new oil.
Thanks
If you look on the bottom of your tractor there is a drain nut for that and then there's one in the middle on the side of the tractor that's the fill up just keep putting gear oil in it until it goes clear then cut your bottom nut and fill it up until it starts coming out that side nut you're full you're fresh you're finished❤
Great jobs guys
Do you have a video that shows how to remove a Ford steering column? I have a leaky lower seal on the power steering gear box.
Are y’all going to have anymore of the premium kits on your sight? I just looked to purchase one and it is out of stock 😢
Great video….thanks
Nice video 👍🏼
What about positive or negative ground does that make a difference
Hallo how are you I am Pakistan I love Ford tractor 🚜
All my tractors are industrial tractors (MF-202 and JD 302A). Will you ever do any videos on them? I know that my MF is close to a TO35 but I don't know the ag version of the JD302A (do you know?). Also, I made the mistake of buying tractors that needed new rear tires- so I need 4 14.9-24 tires. 2 years ago, these tires were $400 ish a-piece so I put it off. Now they're going for $800-$1200 a-piece. Surely there is a way to not spend $3200 and get some tires (and no, new tubes won't solve this. Any ideas? Would love to get your advice!!!!
You learned a lesson the hard way. Everything increases over time. Odd ball industrial tire sizes especially. Step into a Carlisle. As for industrial... highly doubt there is much if any difference beyond implement accessories. There was another import tire brand I've heard of... but can't remember at the moment. It will probably come to me when I stop trying to remember it.
I Have a Yellow Ford tractor Industrial 3 cylinder Gas do you have a wiring harness for it?
Very nice ❤
Could you do video on a complete wiring on 2n 9n and 8n my 8n wiring was taken out
Are you guys familiar with farmtracs
Great Video
Hello, I have brake and hydraulic problems for my Ford 3000. Can you help me with just information?
Yes, with pleasure
ارسل رقم الهاتف كي اتواصل معك
The hydraulics do not stay at a single setting. Do I need to replace the valve seal for this?
Ok, I will replace all the gaskets. It doesn't lift adjustable, it only lifts or lowers it straight.
Sorry to bother you again. Ford 3000 hydraulic brain has a spring next to the press valve. Does it need to be removed in all of them? This bow is missing in some videos, thank you again
I decided to replace generator with a alternator do i still need voltage regulator to hook up instrument panel
Bună am un tractor ford 3000 și nu mai am turații la acul de la priză când calc ambreiajul, se poate face vreo modificare?
Kove your videos. I would like to know if you sell a rebuilt carburetor for a 3-cylinder gas 2600 ford tractor
Hello lets me thanks so much for your videos and also you father ls a master I iam a owner of a ford 4000 diesel 1972 and its a four whel drive i have this equipment in costa rica central america carring palm oil fruit in a farm I love so much this much this machine
Awesome thank y’all
This test at 4:45 of the video does not prove that the regulator is functional. It shows that the field and dynamo wiring is intact, but does not prove the electrical operation of the cut-out, and the voltage and current relays. The voltage shown is only armature residual which on a lucas generator is 2 to 3 volts. Try fixing components instead of replacing them.
nice job
The teens wondered what was kept in the red shed on the far edge of the school grounds.
Hey I have a ford 3000 how can I figure out what year it is
It’s not a bad idea to use dielectric grease on all those electrical connections before you plug them in. Keeps corrosion at bay so ten years down the road when the ignition switch needs replaced, it all unplugs like it was new.
I have Ford 4000 and it has a dc generator. . When I start the engine, the charging light stays on as long as I increase rpm enough. The charging voltage is still only 12.5-13v. The generator is rather new and so is the regulator and wiring. I was wondering are these dc generators just so lazy... Many people have upgraded to ac alternator taken from a car...
That sounds correct to me. The generator produces less volts then a alternator would. So the volts your getting is right. They definitely charge at a slower rate. I also have to Ford tractor I have 1969 3000. With the industrial size front bucket loader. Absolutely love that old girl.
🤔is name change permanent or temporary?
Overheating what your problem ford 3610 tractor from pakistan
Next video will be how to repair a 'tachometer' on a Ford 3000.
Nice
Rachell genia
👍👍👍👍👍
you had me until you said to pull the battery cable off while running to test the charging system. you put a voltage spike through the system and could burn out some parts.
Won’t the voltage regulator prevent a spike?
@@stephens7107 that is what would get burned up as well as the lights and gauges.
F 1700 wont shift help
You can do a load test without a load tester. Just hook up your volt meter to the battery and crank the engine over and watch your voltage. Poor man's load tester.
A true load test is checking the cranking amps. The tester creates a dead short pulling on all the cranking amps available. You can have a battery that wont crank a tractor but enough voltage to turn on lights or a radio etc.
Or show 12 or more colts in a tester
@@jdubya54 The load from your starter is your draw while you watch the voltage drop on the meter. Even a caveman can do it!
@@jdubya54 Out of all the years I've been an automotive I've never seen a battery load tester that test amps. They always test volts. Only time I ever seen anybody doing amp draw test was to see if a starter was bad.
I never met a cave man before. Lol
I want to marry this girl even though I’m probably 40 years older than her.
Find a Ford 5610 tractor engine
Merry me 😍
You absolutely cannot check an alternator by disconnecting the battery cable while it's running! If your regulator loses ground a good alternator can put out 100 volts at high rpm! Headlights go off like flash cubes. Internal alternator wiring looks like burnt shredded wheat, etc. I'm in central Indiana. If you want to learn mechanic work and pay me a small but reasonable wage I'll drive up there and teach you how to rebuild engines, transmissions, differentials, carburetors, starters, alternators, generators, electrical diagnosis etc etc. Somebody could get hurt and/or cause serious damage to their equipment if they follow your videos.
I’m commenting so I can see who’s right. I’m not educated on this so I would like to know. :)
You can't just generate current. It has to go somewhere. That's where the load comes in. Alternators and generators are rated by Amp output at the specified voltage. Testing equipment on the bench or vehicle requires a carbon pile to load or drop the output resistance. If the voltage regulator is working and voltage is at the specified range Ohms law says amperage will increase and that's what we need to check. You can disassemble, clean, and play with an ohm meter but you won't know if it's going to perform. When it's done properly you might show 40 Amps @ 7+ volts for 6 volt system or 14+ volts for 12 volt system. You have to produce more than nominal voltage to overcome resistance in the wiring and the battery itself. Even Harbor Freight has a load tester than can impose a quick load on your charging system. This is the electrical equivalent of an engine dyno. You put a load on it at operating rpm to check the output. Stator windings can actually be checked on the bench when disassembled. Connect a battery and Amp meter directly to the windings just for a second.3 wires have 3 ways to connect so there are 3 test combinations. If you read 60 Amp draw its output will be 60 Amp. 90 Amp Alternator will have 90 Amp draw etc.
You cannot talk to these people on the phone the only way to place an order is online
Can i contact you?,i need your help to repair my ford 3600 tractor.if you can give me your whatsapp number?🥺