What a bizarre little contraption. My washer began slinging water all over the place during normal wash but works fine using permanent press like a previous comment mentioned. After taking apart the drain and inspecting the diverter valve, I didn’t see any blockage or signs of a short. I guess I’m stuck just using perm press from now on. Thanks for the great video!
This is a great video. So helpful and actually explains how the parts work. Fascinating stuff, really. Well, I found it clever, anyway. Thanks for posting. Cheers PP
You are welcome Mr Poopy, I would like to do a few more of these when I have time. If you like seeing inside electrical household items in general I would recommend looking at Big Clive's channel
@@motrepairs Thanks Dan. I pulled the valve out today and removed a covid mask clip from the guts. Your video was spot on, the added bit about how to pull the actuator out to check the gate was a great tip. The difference was you went the extra distance to explain how it all works and what some of the problems are. I'll check out Big Clive. Thanks from across the ditch. Cheers PP
Hi Dan Thank you so much for replying to my comment. My machine looks like the one on this video that you say you will do another video on their fault codes. I can't seem to find that video. I have subscribed to your channel and watched all your videos that I can find on youtube. You explained the beeping for a fatal fault which is what my machine is doing but you don't go any further to explain what the possible issues are and whether I can do something about it at home or not. Please note that I am located in Tonga and we have limited access to repair services and parts which is why I take the time to explore this avenue first. Your expert assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul
Yes Ive been a bit busy recently to do more videos, hopefully starting up this month. If should have an error code on the screen while its beeping, or can you tell me what lights are on
Hi Dan, Thanks for this video on instructing just how the diverter valve works it was most informative. I checked my valve, and it had no carbon burn marks, but I purchased another valve, and my washer is still not recirculating the water so it must not be getting the paper voltage to push the plunger up. My washer will run about 2 to 3 minutes, and it starts emptying out the the drain hose wasting all the soapy water, and will continue filling and emptying on each cycle. So I'm guessing its probably the main control board may be the culprit? I only found refurbished control boards on line and they want $145 or more for one, no guarantees it will work? So with the washer being 12 years old I'd rather put that money towards a new washing machine. FYI, I can't find anywhere on line where Fisher Paykel Top Loader Washers are for sale in the US, in fact one person wrote that F&P stopped sending units to the US back in 2019 before the pandemic so I'll be leaning towards a US Model Maytag Washer that are probably not sold in Oz? Thanks again for all you help!
Yes it sounds like it is a faulty controller then. They can short and blow the controller then dry out and not visually show it some times. Maytag is owned by Whirlpool now, we only see some models here so I can't help with suggestions sorry. I know there was a bit of a technology exchange a few years ago between whirlpool and FP so there are some of their top loaders that are very similar to Smart Drives.
@@motrepairs Hi Dan, I sent you an email message that you may have not received regarding bypassing the diverter valve. On our GWL 15 washer I found a pamphlet stuck in the owners manual that stated; to bypass the diverter valve use the Permanent Press wash cycle. I did this, and now our washing machine works fine with no problems or beeping alarms. So from now on we will only be using the Permanent Press cycle to do all of our laundry loads. No more emptying, and refilling, waisting detergent, or water for us as the washer works just fine using this cycle. Not sure if you knew this or not? Cheers, James
@@jamesb6216 I too have been just washing everything on permanent press since my washer was doing the same as what you and others described. I found that Amazon sells the diverter valve so I'm going to try the new one and see if that fixes it. Otherwise, it's permanent press for me. I've had the machine since 2007 and am trying to get as much life out of it as I can! Already replaced the dual inlet valve to fix a drip inside the drum.
Excellent video. I just replaced mine with the help of your video. I was just going to chuck it out but took the old one apart after watching this. The amount of soap scum residue was gross. No wonder it wasn’t working. Is it possible to put the new valve on backwards? I’m still getting the diverter valve error after putting the new one on?
Thanks for the excellent videos,very clear.because the wax solenoid thing is power on or off can I assume the terminals work either way?my machine has 2 orange wires running to the controller marked vc and dc on the circuit board.cheers
My control module just blew, my mashine is 12 years old, I put another control in it, it has done one wash and was fine, I was just checking can the modules just blow or is there always a reason, I don't want it to blow again, any help would be appreciated.
My washer is slinging water out of the top. It comes out between the lid and front. When opened I can see that water and suds are dripping off the inside of the lid and are on the the sides of the top of inside washer. I have replaced the pump and that didn’t help. It appears that the water is literally sling out over tHe tub and running all over the floor. Any suggestions?
Is the neck ring that clips over the bowl in place and undamaged? And check that the fill nozzle at the back hasn't become disconnected from its elbow hose. Some of the older style recirculation hoses had the molding at the top changed to stop leaks, but that was more water leaking down the sides not spraying up onto the lid.
A good explanation. This is a nice simple design and potentially quite robust and repairable...except for the risk of water ingress.
What a bizarre little contraption. My washer began slinging water all over the place during normal wash but works fine using permanent press like a previous comment mentioned. After taking apart the drain and inspecting the diverter valve, I didn’t see any blockage or signs of a short. I guess I’m stuck just using perm press from now on. Thanks for the great video!
Maybe check the top of the recirculation hose where it enters the tub, it can leak from there sometimes. Some models had an upgraded recirc hose
This is a great video. So helpful and actually explains how the parts work. Fascinating stuff, really. Well, I found it clever, anyway. Thanks for posting. Cheers PP
You are welcome Mr Poopy, I would like to do a few more of these when I have time. If you like seeing inside electrical household items in general I would recommend looking at Big Clive's channel
@@motrepairs Thanks Dan. I pulled the valve out today and removed a covid mask clip from the guts. Your video was spot on, the added bit about how to pull the actuator out to check the gate was a great tip. The difference was you went the extra distance to explain how it all works and what some of the problems are. I'll check out Big Clive. Thanks from across the ditch. Cheers PP
Hi Dan
Thank you so much for replying to my comment. My machine looks like the one on this video that you say you will do another video on their fault codes. I can't seem to find that video.
I have subscribed to your channel and watched all your videos that I can find on youtube. You explained the beeping for a fatal fault which is what my machine is doing but you don't go any further to explain what the possible issues are and whether I can do something about it at home or not.
Please note that I am located in Tonga and we have limited access to repair services and parts which is why I take the time to explore this avenue first.
Your expert assistance is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Paul
Yes Ive been a bit busy recently to do more videos, hopefully starting up this month. If should have an error code on the screen while its beeping, or can you tell me what lights are on
Hi Dan, Thanks for this video on instructing just how the diverter valve works it was most informative.
I checked my valve, and it had no carbon burn marks, but I purchased another valve, and my washer is still not recirculating the water so it must not be getting the paper voltage to push the plunger up.
My washer will run about 2 to 3 minutes, and it starts emptying out the the drain hose wasting all the soapy water, and will continue filling and emptying on each cycle. So I'm guessing its probably the main control board may be the culprit? I only found refurbished control boards on line and they want $145 or more for one, no guarantees it will work? So with the washer being 12 years old I'd rather put that money towards a new washing machine. FYI, I can't find anywhere on line where Fisher Paykel Top Loader Washers are for sale in the US, in fact one person wrote that F&P stopped sending units to the US back in 2019 before the pandemic so I'll be leaning towards a US Model Maytag Washer that are probably not sold in Oz? Thanks again for all you help!
Yes it sounds like it is a faulty controller then. They can short and blow the controller then dry out and not visually show it some times. Maytag is owned by Whirlpool now, we only see some models here so I can't help with suggestions sorry. I know there was a bit of a technology exchange a few years ago between whirlpool and FP so there are some of their top loaders that are very similar to Smart Drives.
@@motrepairs Hi Dan, I sent you an email message that you may have not received regarding bypassing the diverter valve. On our GWL 15 washer I found a pamphlet stuck in the owners manual that stated; to bypass the diverter valve use the Permanent Press wash cycle. I did this, and now our washing machine works fine with no problems or beeping alarms. So from now on we will only be using the Permanent Press cycle to do all of our laundry loads. No more emptying, and refilling, waisting detergent, or water for us as the washer works just fine using this cycle. Not sure if you knew this or not? Cheers, James
@@jamesb6216 I read your post, washed on permanent press and it worked. I replaced the diverter valve and all is well.
@@jamesb6216 I too have been just washing everything on permanent press since my washer was doing the same as what you and others described. I found that Amazon sells the diverter valve so I'm going to try the new one and see if that fixes it. Otherwise, it's permanent press for me. I've had the machine since 2007 and am trying to get as much life out of it as I can! Already replaced the dual inlet valve to fix a drip inside the drum.
Excellent video. I just replaced mine with the help of your video. I was just going to chuck it out but took the old one apart after watching this. The amount of soap scum residue was gross. No wonder it wasn’t working. Is it possible to put the new valve on backwards? I’m still getting the diverter valve error after putting the new one on?
Potentially could get tit the wrong way around, the outlet that is open when it is cold/off is the drain outlet.
or a phelleps head screwdriver..
If you are referring to the screw/bolt on the securing clip then yes you can use a Screw driver but I've found a socket easier.
Thanks for the excellent videos,very clear.because the wax solenoid thing is power on or off can I assume the terminals work either way?my machine has 2 orange wires running to the controller marked vc and dc on the circuit board.cheers
Yes the polarity doesn't matter so you can connect either way.
@@motrepairs sure enough I dismantled the old unit to find it clogged with soapy burnt residue thanks for your generous help
My control module just blew, my mashine is 12 years old, I put another control in it, it has done one wash and was fine, I was just checking can the modules just blow or is there always a reason, I don't want it to blow again, any help would be appreciated.
Some of them can just blow, usually if some of the power triacs that control the motor fail.
Hi Dan, I have a Washsmart Model WA8560G1. Today it has been giving the Fatal Warning Beep. Can you suggest a way forward for me please?
Has it been showing lights? If so you can see my video about reading the fault codes ua-cam.com/video/YbpLNMK2w08/v-deo.html
What fault if any will this display on a fisher paykel top load washer? Thank you.
The main diverter codes are 51 and 52, but you can also get a 37 not draining fault or a User Warning "Suds Lock"
Where does it divert water from ?
It diverts water from the pump so instead of going out the drain it is splashed on top of the clothes. It is run in the fill and wash stages.
My washer is slinging water out of the top. It comes out between the lid and front. When opened I can see that water and suds are dripping off the inside of the lid and are on the the sides of the top of inside washer. I have replaced the pump and that didn’t help. It appears that the water is literally sling out over tHe tub and running all over the floor. Any suggestions?
Is the neck ring that clips over the bowl in place and undamaged? And check that the fill nozzle at the back hasn't become disconnected from its elbow hose. Some of the older style recirculation hoses had the molding at the top changed to stop leaks, but that was more water leaking down the sides not spraying up onto the lid.
Was diverter valve