Hey Dmitry, this is the first time I've seen a detailing video from your channel and I'm impressed. You did a very professional job on the video and I have subscribed. Thanks for your work.
Yea Adams has some really amazing formulations. Sometimes people snooze on them, because they are a bigger company and enthusiasts tend to favor boutiques, but Chris and his team make super interesting stuff. Thanks for watching!
👍 👍 👍 So cool!. My favorite ceramic booster remains, meguiar's M799 pro hybrid ceramic bead booster!. You should test it. On an existing ceramic it's a treat, even autonomous it's nice! , if you come to test it one day, it would be interesting to do the same, a ceramic section without topper, a section + topper, and an autonomous section.
I'm guessing this is super hydrophobic, is it the best you know of? There seems to be so many it's hard to pick one. What do you recommend for an antistatic dust repellant topper?
I'm so glad I discovered your YT vids on detailing products. You are very thorough with your tests and how you explain them. I love detailing my vehicles and am finding your reviews to be very helpful. Thank you for your time.
Meguiars D156 has been many detailers go-to spray wax for the past 10+ years. It would be great if you could test this for us to use as a baseline. Thanks much for the database you are building for comparison of coatings. Have you considered adding a GLASS test to more easily reveal streaking &/or high spot issues? I use spray wax on entire car after wash while drying and anything with above average streaking on glass goes in the trash.
Dominick, thats a pretty interesting idea. Glass does tend to be noticeably streaky since it’s clear. It does work a bit differently in how products adhere to it though. This is why i haven’t been doing durability tests on glass. Its not an ideal substrate for many products. Ill have to think about this one. D156 is a good product, I’ve used it in the past as well. Ill definitely add it to my test list. Thank you for watching and your very insightful comment!
@@DmitrysGarage Yea, got me thinking about diff surfaces. Consider the possibility that there may not be an "ideal substrate" for some products as they are advertised(and work well) for the entire exterior(paint/glass/plastic/chrome). Heck, D156 works great on the interior as well. HOWEVER, in contrast, some products leave very undesirable residue on anything but paint. For practicality I aim to only use products that are safe on all surfaces. Wish i had a better understanding of the situation. If you are in contact with any product chemists please run this past them to see if there is any valuable info. Also consider that many people apply spray waxes outdoors where a some of the product oversprays beyond the desired panel to glass/trim and a decent amount simply blows away to be wasted. For every car guy with a garage there is one without...
Yea these are all definitely great points and this is why synthetic testing like I'm doing can only go so far, ultimately people need to try out products in their particular circumstances and see how they function on their substrates in their application environments.
Hey Dmitry, I'm always interested in your visual appeal verdicts. It just occurred to me that you haven't tested Sonax Polymer Net Shield, and having only dabbled with SiO2 products I only recently learned that it's a classic polymer sealant renowned for its solid durability (5-6 months), beading and, most notably for me, its depth/darkening effect that you seem to enjoy as much as I do! I'd love to know what you make of it before I consider ditching my ceramic coating once its current life cycle is up ;) I just watched your top review of The Last Coat which appears to be a slicker SiO2 alternative with similar performance so I'll probably get around to finally trying that one out anyhow. Thanks!
Andrew, I'll make sure that's added to my list :). I have some new testing coming soon so ill be able to process more tests than ever. Thanks for watching my videos!
I love watching your videos on detailing products. Can you please do a comparison test of Adams graphene ceramic spray coating vs Adams graphene ceramic spray coating advanced. I'd like to know if there is a big difference or any difference at all. THANK YOU!
@@DmitrysGarage Thank you. I am trying decide if spending the extra $$ is worth it for the advanced or is the basic one almost equivalent. Would like an honest opinion and your testing practices are phenomenal.
Hi Dmitry! Thank you for such informational videos! Would you recommend using a wash soap that helps dissolve sealant before reapplying once these sprays get close to failure? Or would it be appropriate to just spray on a new coat after a standard wash?
Appreciate you watching! I would say if it’s the same product you could use more, but depends on how the durability and contamination is. A low durability product is usually fine to apply regularly with a decontamination every so often. A high durability one you run for say 6 months should at lest be decontaminated with a strip shampoo. Over that time you’ll collect plenty of contamination. A clay and polish every few years doesn’t hurt either. I generally do not clay bar unless I also polish, but this may be less relevant depending on use and condition of the car. Clay bar tends to impart light marring which is fine on say a work truck, but not a good idea without polishing on say a show car as the other extreme.
The reasoning behind a topper is (as has been explained by the detailing gurus) that it performs as a "sacrificial layer" to help your (sometimes VERY costly) ceramic coating last longer. Is it somewhat of a money grab? Sure. But if we didn't have toppers, the coatings would not last NEARLY as long. That's just physics. Plus - people LIKE to put stuff on their car. No one who merely puts a Ceramic coating on their car and "leaves it alone" is on UA-cam watching detailing videos.
Larry, thanks for watching and commenting. I do agree with you that toppers will provide a layer, and we can see that in this video when we test durability. I also agree that some people love to keep applying products. I would argue that your coating will "last" forever if you keep applying a topper, you'll never see it fail because you always have another product you're spraying on. This is fine, but I would ask why not just use a silica spray sealant (which is what a booster is) and just skip spending the money on the coating? The two products as you said layer, so if you like the performance of your top layer, why not just use that? In my opinion the whole sales pitch of a coating is it providing protection (slickness, hydrophobicity, etc...) with a high durability and longevity. Good coatings will in fact perform well without any booster products until you're ready to polish your car again and re-coat in a few years. I know some are claiming 5, 7 even 9+ years of protection, but who runs the same coating for 9 years without re-polishing their paint? Coatings are only about as hard as your fingernail, maybe slightly harder for the good stuff.
@@DmitrysGarage thanks for your thoughtful response. I agree with most of that except the part when you say coatings might last their rated range if you don’t put a topper on them. I’ve been testing coatings from various manufacturers on my personal car for the last 18 months, and I’ve already had two instances of failure, not complete failure, but to the point that the coating is sheeting, fairly slowly and not beading at all. And, I’m one of those people that likes to put toppers on. So I’ve been using toppers on top of good coatings and I’m still getting failures. I don’t think there’s a coating on the planet that you could put on a car & never put a topper on it, just do maintenance washes every two weeks and have that coating still beading up after three years. I have yet to see I see a single instance of that.
Larry, I totally agree that not all coatings last their rated range without a second helper product, as I've had similar experiences to you. While you say you're seeing good coatings fail, to me they wouldn't qualify as good if they can't adequately bead and protect for at least 2 years. I personally don't invest much thought into ratings past 2-3 years because I think every car that is driven needs to have some paint correction routinely even if it's very minor polishing. There are a lot of really crappy coatings out there, but even simple ones can last for a few years. I had Adam's Graphene Ceramic Spray, which isn't even their full durability coating on my truck and it lasted for just about 2 years before I sold the truck. I expect the liquid version to last even longer on my Audi, so far we're almost 1.5 years in without issues. I did have to re-do it on the back of the car because someone rear-ended me, the front is still the original coating though. I also tend to wash with pretty simple soaps like the Adam's blue shampoo, because it's very mild and a really simple formulation.
@@DmitrysGarage Shine Supply Beadlock Pro failed after 8 months. Gyeon Mohs Syncro had a couple of weak spots at 8 months & after 13 months, as did Dallas Paint Correction TMR & Nova Evo Pro. Diamond ProTech Diamond Body 36 is losing hydrophobics after 7 months. I think some of those coatings are rated as “good.” & I did use toppers religiously. I know my prep was great too as I made sure to go the extra yard to have the paint perfectly prepared for the coatings. I think by October I’m going to re-polish & apply some different coatings for testing.
@@larrysing Try out some of the Adam's coatings. I had great luck with their graphene line of coatings including the spray, the regular liquid, and I'm about to do a test video of the advanced formula. I never use toppers on mine and they seem to last just fine. Seven, eight and thirteen months is unacceptable in my opinion. I'm not sure what's going on with those products, but I haven't tested those myself.
Do you think we are at the point where it is no longer important to categorize/compare by the various technologies. Carnauba, Polymer, Sio2, Ceramic, Teflon, Graphene, can we just call them all COATINGS and let the data/results speak for themselves? (IMO Wax is an obsolete term even if there is a minor amount of carnauba in a hybrid product) (Sidenote: I think the only reason the industry is keeping Carnauba around in hybrid products is to satisfy old-school car guys, and it is possible that the actual amount(if any) within the product is insignificant. Pure marketing to a specific target audience)
This is a good question. I personally do think were at that point. Ultimately many products are quite good now and I would wonder does the underlying technology (ie. Carnauba vs SiO2) really matter if it does the job. The tech can matter when stacking products, but for most users I imagine a spray wax is a spray wax no matter how it works if it works across all metrics. So I tend to bucket by application method. This is a very interesting discussion though. I do think carnauba is largely dead outside of some show car applications where it may have some richness/depth advantages but often the other metrics are abysmal. It maybe at minimum partially marketing related too.
The friction test would be more accurate if you had a taped line to start at for every pull. Otherwise the nilly Willy decision of where to start may be affected by the slope of the hood in that particular spot. The hood is curved…
Hey, If you have time, Could you do a test on the Adams Graphene Boost please. Thank you
Hey Dmitry, this is the first time I've seen a detailing video from your channel and I'm impressed. You did a very professional job on the video and I have subscribed. Thanks for your work.
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words and your viewership!
I’m a huge fan of a lot of different ceramic products. Adam’s has topped my personal list over the past year or so.
Yea Adams has some really amazing formulations. Sometimes people snooze on them, because they are a bigger company and enthusiasts tend to favor boutiques, but Chris and his team make super interesting stuff. Thanks for watching!
@@DmitrysGarage used them for years and boutique or not, they deliver for my customers, and the delivery is what I care about.
@@P4SDetails yep, thats all that matters, i think people get too into the branding etc... they'd lose their mind if walmart started carrying adams lol
👍 👍 👍 So cool!. My favorite ceramic booster remains, meguiar's M799 pro hybrid ceramic bead booster!. You should test it. On an existing ceramic it's a treat, even autonomous it's nice! , if you come to test it one day, it would be interesting to do the same, a ceramic section without topper, a section + topper, and an autonomous section.
Glad you liked the video! I'll make sure that one is on my list as well :).
I'm guessing this is super hydrophobic, is it the best you know of? There seems to be so many it's hard to pick one. What do you recommend for an antistatic dust repellant topper?
I'm so glad I discovered your YT vids on detailing products. You are very thorough with your tests and how you explain them. I love detailing my vehicles and am finding your reviews to be very helpful. Thank you for your time.
I'm really glad you like my channel and that the reviews are helpful :), appreciate you watching!
Are you gonna review the Graphene Boost? I been waitin patiently thinkin you would review it
It's on the list! :)
Meguiars D156 has been many detailers go-to spray wax for the past 10+ years. It would be great if you could test this for us to use as a baseline. Thanks much for the database you are building for comparison of coatings. Have you considered adding a GLASS test to more easily reveal streaking &/or high spot issues? I use spray wax on entire car after wash while drying and anything with above average streaking on glass goes in the trash.
Dominick, thats a pretty interesting idea. Glass does tend to be noticeably streaky since it’s clear. It does work a bit differently in how products adhere to it though. This is why i haven’t been doing durability tests on glass. Its not an ideal substrate for many products. Ill have to think about this one. D156 is a good product, I’ve used it in the past as well. Ill definitely add it to my test list. Thank you for watching and your very insightful comment!
Oh and thank you so much for the super thanks! Just noticed it as im on my mobile!
@@DmitrysGarage Yea, got me thinking about diff surfaces. Consider the possibility that there may not be an "ideal substrate" for some products as they are advertised(and work well) for the entire exterior(paint/glass/plastic/chrome). Heck, D156 works great on the interior as well.
HOWEVER, in contrast, some products leave very undesirable residue on anything but paint. For practicality I aim to only use products that are safe on all surfaces. Wish i had a better understanding of the situation. If you are in contact with any product chemists please run this past them to see if there is any valuable info.
Also consider that many people apply spray waxes outdoors where a some of the product oversprays beyond the desired panel to glass/trim and a decent amount simply blows away to be wasted. For every car guy with a garage there is one without...
Yea these are all definitely great points and this is why synthetic testing like I'm doing can only go so far, ultimately people need to try out products in their particular circumstances and see how they function on their substrates in their application environments.
Ammo NYC top coat sounds like a good product to test. I love Larry's products!
Hey Dmitry, I'm always interested in your visual appeal verdicts. It just occurred to me that you haven't tested Sonax Polymer Net Shield, and having only dabbled with SiO2 products I only recently learned that it's a classic polymer sealant renowned for its solid durability (5-6 months), beading and, most notably for me, its depth/darkening effect that you seem to enjoy as much as I do! I'd love to know what you make of it before I consider ditching my ceramic coating once its current life cycle is up ;) I just watched your top review of The Last Coat which appears to be a slicker SiO2 alternative with similar performance so I'll probably get around to finally trying that one out anyhow. Thanks!
Andrew, I'll make sure that's added to my list :). I have some new testing coming soon so ill be able to process more tests than ever. Thanks for watching my videos!
A Damn Good Review
Hi dmitry love your channel, could you use the adams boost as a topper over jescar power lock plus ? Keep up the good work !
Have you had a chance to try their Graphene Boost yet? I’d like to see how that compares to this Ceramic Boost.
I have not, but that one is high up on my list :).
@@DmitrysGarageand Adam’s graphene detail spray pleaseeeeee 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Wish you had did a section on top of wax, most manufacturers claim ceramic boosters work on wax as well
I may do that in the future :)
Great video! Are you planning on testing Adam's graphene boost?
Yeah, trying to decide between these two products. It'd be great to see how it performs!
Could you test the test panel before applying and after instead of using the glass to test the gloss
Great review!
Thank you!
Excellent review my dear friend 👍👍👍
Thanks Joaquin! Always a pleasure to hear from you my friend!
I love watching your videos on detailing products. Can you please do a comparison test of Adams graphene ceramic spray coating vs Adams graphene ceramic spray coating advanced. I'd like to know if there is a big difference or any difference at all. THANK YOU!
Thanks Melinda! I will be testing the advanced formulations as soon as I can :)
@@DmitrysGarage Thank you. I am trying decide if spending the extra $$ is worth it for the advanced or is the basic one almost equivalent. Would like an honest opinion and your testing practices are phenomenal.
Hi Dmitry! Thank you for such informational videos! Would you recommend using a wash soap that helps dissolve sealant before reapplying once these sprays get close to failure? Or would it be appropriate to just spray on a new coat after a standard wash?
Appreciate you watching! I would say if it’s the same product you could use more, but depends on how the durability and contamination is. A low durability product is usually fine to apply regularly with a decontamination every so often. A high durability one you run for say 6 months should at lest be decontaminated with a strip shampoo. Over that time you’ll collect plenty of contamination. A clay and polish every few years doesn’t hurt either. I generally do not clay bar unless I also polish, but this may be less relevant depending on use and condition of the car. Clay bar tends to impart light marring which is fine on say a work truck, but not a good idea without polishing on say a show car as the other extreme.
The reasoning behind a topper is (as has been explained by the detailing gurus) that it performs as a "sacrificial layer" to help your (sometimes VERY costly) ceramic coating last longer. Is it somewhat of a money grab? Sure. But if we didn't have toppers, the coatings would not last NEARLY as long. That's just physics. Plus - people LIKE to put stuff on their car. No one who merely puts a Ceramic coating on their car and "leaves it alone" is on UA-cam watching detailing videos.
Larry, thanks for watching and commenting. I do agree with you that toppers will provide a layer, and we can see that in this video when we test durability. I also agree that some people love to keep applying products. I would argue that your coating will "last" forever if you keep applying a topper, you'll never see it fail because you always have another product you're spraying on. This is fine, but I would ask why not just use a silica spray sealant (which is what a booster is) and just skip spending the money on the coating? The two products as you said layer, so if you like the performance of your top layer, why not just use that?
In my opinion the whole sales pitch of a coating is it providing protection (slickness, hydrophobicity, etc...) with a high durability and longevity. Good coatings will in fact perform well without any booster products until you're ready to polish your car again and re-coat in a few years. I know some are claiming 5, 7 even 9+ years of protection, but who runs the same coating for 9 years without re-polishing their paint? Coatings are only about as hard as your fingernail, maybe slightly harder for the good stuff.
@@DmitrysGarage thanks for your thoughtful response. I agree with most of that except the part when you say coatings might last their rated range if you don’t put a topper on them. I’ve been testing coatings from various manufacturers on my personal car for the last 18 months, and I’ve already had two instances of failure, not complete failure, but to the point that the coating is sheeting, fairly slowly and not beading at all. And, I’m one of those people that likes to put toppers on. So I’ve been using toppers on top of good coatings and I’m still getting failures. I don’t think there’s a coating on the planet that you could put on a car & never put a topper on it, just do maintenance washes every two weeks and have that coating still beading up after three years. I have yet to see I see a single instance of that.
Larry, I totally agree that not all coatings last their rated range without a second helper product, as I've had similar experiences to you. While you say you're seeing good coatings fail, to me they wouldn't qualify as good if they can't adequately bead and protect for at least 2 years. I personally don't invest much thought into ratings past 2-3 years because I think every car that is driven needs to have some paint correction routinely even if it's very minor polishing. There are a lot of really crappy coatings out there, but even simple ones can last for a few years. I had Adam's Graphene Ceramic Spray, which isn't even their full durability coating on my truck and it lasted for just about 2 years before I sold the truck. I expect the liquid version to last even longer on my Audi, so far we're almost 1.5 years in without issues. I did have to re-do it on the back of the car because someone rear-ended me, the front is still the original coating though. I also tend to wash with pretty simple soaps like the Adam's blue shampoo, because it's very mild and a really simple formulation.
@@DmitrysGarage Shine Supply Beadlock Pro failed after 8 months. Gyeon Mohs Syncro had a couple of weak spots at 8 months & after 13 months, as did Dallas Paint Correction TMR & Nova Evo Pro. Diamond ProTech Diamond Body 36 is losing hydrophobics after 7 months. I think some of those coatings are rated as “good.” & I did use toppers religiously. I know my prep was great too as I made sure to go the extra yard to have the paint perfectly prepared for the coatings. I think by October I’m going to re-polish & apply some different coatings for testing.
@@larrysing Try out some of the Adam's coatings. I had great luck with their graphene line of coatings including the spray, the regular liquid, and I'm about to do a test video of the advanced formula. I never use toppers on mine and they seem to last just fine. Seven, eight and thirteen months is unacceptable in my opinion. I'm not sure what's going on with those products, but I haven't tested those myself.
Do you think we are at the point where it is no longer important to categorize/compare by the various technologies. Carnauba, Polymer, Sio2, Ceramic, Teflon, Graphene, can we just call them all COATINGS and let the data/results speak for themselves?
(IMO Wax is an obsolete term even if there is a minor amount of carnauba in a hybrid product)
(Sidenote: I think the only reason the industry is keeping Carnauba around in hybrid products is to satisfy old-school car guys, and it is possible that the actual amount(if any) within the product is insignificant. Pure marketing to a specific target audience)
This is a good question. I personally do think were at that point. Ultimately many products are quite good now and I would wonder does the underlying technology (ie. Carnauba vs SiO2) really matter if it does the job. The tech can matter when stacking products, but for most users I imagine a spray wax is a spray wax no matter how it works if it works across all metrics. So I tend to bucket by application method. This is a very interesting discussion though. I do think carnauba is largely dead outside of some show car applications where it may have some richness/depth advantages but often the other metrics are abysmal. It maybe at minimum partially marketing related too.
The friction test would be more accurate if you had a taped line to start at for every pull. Otherwise the nilly Willy decision of where to start may be affected by the slope of the hood in that particular spot. The hood is curved…
Agreed, it wasn’t a perfect test. You should check out my newest test (ie Gyeon Wax). Its now an automated machine based test.