Hello ! Thank you for your video. Helped me a lot. My only question would be - At 4:11 how do I know if I need a *Gasket* or *O-ring* placed between the metal part you removed and the gear housing ?
Hi, If it's an O-ring, you'll obviously see that when it's apart, but if you want to order the bits before dismantling, I would have thought you would be able to see the gasket in the join while it's still togther, so if not there it's likely an O-ring (unless previous owner messed up!). I found an old picture of one with a gasker, the gear side looks similar to one with an O-ring, so the difference will be the cover part which should have an indentation for the O-ring to sit in.
@@CH-jt4ii thanks for your reply It was already dismantled but it was not so obvious to me. Anyway it is most probably a gasket as I did not find any old O-ring between the 2 parts. Ordered one ;) not so easy to find !
I've read both 100:1 and 50:1 for this type of engine. From what I understand it'll run at 100:1 but is better & will last longer at 50:1.Using the ratio of 50:1, it will be 20ml per litre, or 1/10 litre for a 5 litre can. Some 2 stroke oil bottles will have a measurement on the side of the bottle to indicate how much to pour in for a certain volume.
Hi, it's been a while since I've worked on one of these but I don't recall anything that would stop it moving. I had a quick check on some parts I still have lying around and it may just be the top of the drive shaft being very tight or corroded on. You may have to remove the leg from the powerhead.
Hi, I didn't video the reassembly I'm afraid. I don't recall lining up the cogs to be to much of a problem. Put in the final drive/gear. Make sure you have the washers correctly placed on top of the small gear. Then put the small gear in location on the final drive and line the cogs up while locating the centre gear hole with input shaft hole. Push the input shaft down slightly to locate and keep small gear in place - you made need to turn the shaft slightly while wiggling the gear to get them to line up. I can't recall how much clearance there is, but you may be able to have the drive shaft protruding slightly from the case, then put the gear on it, then push shaft all the way through. You can turn the drive shaft a bit to ensure it's all OK then fit the circlip.
Thanks very much! Was great to see how this goes for my honda 2
Thanks very much! very informative
Great video very informative. Thanks
Hello ! Thank you for your video. Helped me a lot.
My only question would be
- At 4:11 how do I know if I need a *Gasket* or *O-ring* placed between the metal part you removed and the gear housing ?
Hi, If it's an O-ring, you'll obviously see that when it's apart, but if you want to order the bits before dismantling, I would have thought you would be able to see the gasket in the join while it's still togther, so if not there it's likely an O-ring (unless previous owner messed up!). I found an old picture of one with a gasker, the gear side looks similar to one with an O-ring, so the difference will be the cover part which should have an indentation for the O-ring to sit in.
@@CH-jt4ii thanks for your reply
It was already dismantled but it was not so obvious to me. Anyway it is most probably a gasket as I did not find any old O-ring between the 2 parts. Ordered one ;) not so easy to find !
Where did you find one..?
The impeller has a keyhole shape hole, but nothing seems to fit into the slot part - am I missing something? Surely needs a pin to lock it?
Hi. How much oil do you mix with 1 litre of fuel ? Thx. Just buy one.
I've read both 100:1 and 50:1 for this type of engine. From
what I understand it'll run at 100:1 but is better & will last longer at 50:1.Using the ratio of 50:1, it will be 20ml per litre, or 1/10 litre
for a 5 litre can. Some 2 stroke oil bottles will have a measurement on the side of the bottle to indicate how much to pour in for a certain volume.
how did you get the gear box off the leg? I've removed the bolts on the gearbox but it just wont move!
Hi, it's been a while since I've worked on one of these but I don't recall anything that would stop it moving. I had a quick check on some parts I still have lying around and it may just be the top of the drive shaft being very tight or corroded on. You may have to remove the leg from the powerhead.
@@CH-jt4ii it was a seized engine shaft to leg shaft that was stopping me from easily removing the leg and the gearbox!
any chance of seeing the reassembly?. lining up the shaft with the gear cog is proving very tricky. any tips?
Hi, I didn't video the reassembly I'm afraid. I don't recall lining up the cogs to be to much of a problem. Put in the final drive/gear. Make sure you have the washers correctly placed on top of the small gear. Then put the small gear in location on the final drive and line the cogs up while locating the centre gear hole with input shaft hole. Push the input shaft down slightly to locate and keep small gear in place - you made need to turn the shaft slightly while wiggling the gear to get them to line up. I can't recall how much clearance there is, but you may be able to have the drive shaft protruding slightly from the case, then put the gear on it, then push shaft all the way through. You can turn the drive shaft a bit to ensure it's all OK then fit the circlip.