my floor in my house, it had laminate flooring that was splitting at the joins because the floor had dips and raises all over the place. I needed to level the floor before putting down new laminate... what a nightmare... one corner of the room was 1 inch higher than the rest, and on average about half inch uneven dips in the floor... total nightmare to try to get it all level, especially as there are 3 doorways into this room. Anyways so I began chiselling away some of the high spots (the centre of the room was 1 inch higher as well), as if the previous owner had just dumped concrete into a wheelbarrow in the centre of the room and tried to levei it out from the centre.. leaving a big hump in the centre of the room.. But the real issue was the type of concrete, it was poured ontop of a concrete base that was too dry, so if you tried to chisel away at one section, a huge section of concrete would crack and come away, like some chunks up to 2 feet so I had to cover the entire section with a bonding compound, and re concrete the floor where it all started coming away, and then had to level the whole floor with self levelling compound. the bathroom next to this room was exactly the same, uneven, and taking the previous tiles up... it would take up big chunks of concrete with each tile! revealing a sort of sand like textured concrete underneath, just such a nightmare and now... the kitchen is the exact same thing all over, I want to laminate over the kitchen tiles with a vinyl floor, but the tiles were put down uneven, some of them about 1/4 inch higher than others.... so i am thinking of putting sbr down all over the tiles and self levelling ontop of the tiles. if i try to take the tiles up, it will take up huge deep chunks of concrete with them and i cant be doing with all that headwork - so been looking up some videos to try to get my head round the best option.
Hows it holding up? I am in same scenario. I read Henry requires wire mesh or chicken wire if pouring on wood. But everyone I see except 1 on youtube doesnt bother with that step. Think it will fail overtime with plywood deflection when walking?
There are different types of henry, 456 I believe is the correct product number that can be used over plywood. A bonding agent is recommended but no wire mesh. It has polymers in it that allow it to be flexible. Even if it cracks In a spot or to the adhesion is fantastic and it won't come up. Kinda like a driveway with a hairline crack. For me it is hold up fine, I will not hesitate to use it on plywood in the future.
I did it in 2 sections, first the one you seen me pour in the video. I used cardboard dams with foil tape holding them to the floor. Then moved the refrigerator onto that surface once cured then the second pour.
I am doing this type of job very often and am a little confused about how you doing leveling. My dear friend, you need to take some lessons on how to do it. Use the right tools and you will get better results. Thanks!
In my video's i am showing people a way to do this that doesn't require the professional tools. The high dollar tools are nice but why would someone buy them to do a DIY project or one time project when other cheaper tools and creativity can obtain close to the same results for way less money spent on tools. My channel is not about how professionals do with the professional tools but rather how anyone can do it and get really close to if not the same professional results. Thanks for watching. Congratulations on the success of your channel i know it takes alot of hard work and dedication to get where you are.
Im not sure of OPs tile situation but if his tiles are cracking it could mean other issues are happening and need to be addressed. Its better to remove the tiles and start fresh to figure out other issues along the way.
Let me know if you guys have ever had to fix a wavy sub floor!
I live in Michigan not to far from Detroit. I need help with leveling a room in my basement! Would you have interest in doing the job?
I am sorry, I am overloaded with work. There are some good flooring contractors in the area and handyman as well that could help with that.
my floor in my house, it had laminate flooring that was splitting at the joins because the floor had dips and raises all over the place. I needed to level the floor before putting down new laminate...
what a nightmare... one corner of the room was 1 inch higher than the rest, and on average about half inch uneven dips in the floor... total nightmare to try to get it all level, especially as there are 3 doorways into this room.
Anyways so I began chiselling away some of the high spots (the centre of the room was 1 inch higher as well), as if the previous owner had just dumped concrete into a wheelbarrow in the centre of the room and tried to levei it out from the centre.. leaving a big hump in the centre of the room..
But the real issue was the type of concrete, it was poured ontop of a concrete base that was too dry, so if you tried to chisel away at one section, a huge section of concrete would crack and come away, like some chunks up to 2 feet so I had to cover the entire section with a bonding compound, and re concrete the floor where it all started coming away, and then had to level the whole floor with self levelling compound.
the bathroom next to this room was exactly the same, uneven, and taking the previous tiles up... it would take up big chunks of concrete with each tile! revealing a sort of sand like textured concrete underneath, just such a nightmare and now... the kitchen is the exact same thing all over, I want to laminate over the kitchen tiles with a vinyl floor, but the tiles were put down uneven, some of them about 1/4 inch higher than others.... so i am thinking of putting sbr down all over the tiles and self levelling ontop of the tiles.
if i try to take the tiles up, it will take up huge deep chunks of concrete with them and i cant be doing with all that headwork - so been looking up some videos to try to get my head round the best option.
Sounds like you have your hands full. Sometimes short cuts work out worse than the full on repair.
Hows it holding up? I am in same scenario. I read Henry requires wire mesh or chicken wire if pouring on wood. But everyone I see except 1 on youtube doesnt bother with that step. Think it will fail overtime with plywood deflection when walking?
There are different types of henry, 456 I believe is the correct product number that can be used over plywood. A bonding agent is recommended but no wire mesh. It has polymers in it that allow it to be flexible. Even if it cracks In a spot or to the adhesion is fantastic and it won't come up. Kinda like a driveway with a hairline crack. For me it is hold up fine, I will not hesitate to use it on plywood in the future.
The instructions on the 555 say nothing about metal lathe over a wood install.
Super helpful, thanks brother!
You are welcome.
I had a floor like that i used an oscillating saw and heat gun and 5 in 1
Did you move the fridge out?
No, I just moved it around. A bit of a pain but still easier than moving it out of the room.
How did you keep the self leveling from getting on the fridge because it flows.
I did it in 2 sections, first the one you seen me pour in the video. I used cardboard dams with foil tape holding them to the floor. Then moved the refrigerator onto that surface once cured then the second pour.
I am doing this type of job very often and am a little confused about how you doing leveling. My dear friend, you need to take some lessons on how to do it. Use the right tools and you will get better results. Thanks!
In my video's i am showing people a way to do this that doesn't require the professional tools. The high dollar tools are nice but why would someone buy them to do a DIY project or one time project when other cheaper tools and creativity can obtain close to the same results for way less money spent on tools. My channel is not about how professionals do with the professional tools but rather how anyone can do it and get really close to if not the same professional results. Thanks for watching. Congratulations on the success of your channel i know it takes alot of hard work and dedication to get where you are.
why not put laminate on top of your existing tiles?
Im not sure of OPs tile situation but if his tiles are cracking it could mean other issues are happening and need to be addressed. Its better to remove the tiles and start fresh to figure out other issues along the way.
You would have saved yourself a ton of work with a steamer or clothing iron and a wet towel to soften the glue ND remove the tiles
Never thought of using an iron, thank you.
17 years later………..
It don't take 17 years! what's wrong with you! 16 top's