Probably he's just not looked at his channel in a while... life gets in the way sometimes🤷♂ I agree it's too bad. He's very good at explaining things and the videos he's done are quite good!
I was going to diy this job and came across 5 good youtube videos. Then i came across the best and truly complete one. I unsaved the earlier 5. One great video is all i need. Thank you.
a friend of mine does all types of stone/tile work. He said if doing a large job with many bucket mixings, fill a bucket to the exact amount of water then drill a hole at the top level. you'll always have the correct amount of water to pour into mixing bucket.
@barkershill ??? .... you decide where to drill the hole based on the volume or weight of substance you wish to consistently measure. If you want 5 gallons or 2 litres you will fill the bucket to the level you want and then drill a hole at the fill line so any excess drips away. ....
Looking at the walls of that building , obviously they need pointing /rendering /painting . Would it not have been better to do that first and save messing up the new floor?
Learn from my mistake! My son and I were pouring self levelling concrete over newly laid 3/4" plywood to lay down a concrete floor for a bathroom (to be tiled). I mixed and my son poured and spread. We needed 8 bags of cement. The problem was the cement started to set rather quickly, after about 15 minutes. So when my son poured freshly mixed concrete it refused to meld with the setting concrete and created lumps and dents. It took me half a day to grind off a big bump in the floor. Plus we had to do another corrective pour to fill an area that was lower (a big dent). This all could have been avoided if a) 1 mixed 2 bags at once in a larger container like a garbage can, mixing one bucket at a time was too slow, you need to have as much liquidy cement on the floor as possible 2) had we had a spiked roller to even the edges and 3) watched this video.
Self levelling is easier as it does what it says. Cement/concrete requires effort and skill as you physically have to level it. Now it may come down to cost as self leveller is way more expensive and goes off very quick versus cement where you have much longer to work with.
Pretty good video - you covered just about everything, and clearly. A couple of points I'd add: #1 / I totally agree with the viewer who said you need a person mixing and helping with the carrying, so that the spreader can concentrate on that. You want as much as possible of the area to be runny at the same time. Once the compound starts to firm up, you will have lost the opportunity to achieve a truly level floor. YOU DON'T GET A SECOND CHANCE with this stuff. #2/ The spiked roller is almost essential if you want a really smooth and level finish. The spikes constantly break the surface tension, HUGELY aiding the leveling process. The difference between spiked rolling, and trowelling only, has to be experienced to be believed. I have tried both, and I will NEVER again do a project without the spiked roller. 3/ Spiked shoe bases again are highly recommended, if at all possible, as you can walk all over the job without leaving craters, that may or may not level up properly. #4 / Don't try to feather out any edges to a zero thickness, certainly if the leveller is intended to be your finished surface. Apart from that .. happy levelling. It's a great addition to the building game.
I love your no no-nonsense approach and your sense of humour. I think this is the best video for doing this on the web and no annoying music while you talk so you can hear what you're saying.
This is one of the best videos I have seen. Incredibly in depth and very well explained. Plus, for your American friends (me) I truly appreciate the conversion from Meters to Feet etc.
I've always wondered why the primer was necessary. Your explanation is exemplary. Thank you. It makes total sense that an unprimed floor would sap the water too fast for a good cure. Exelent advice that got you a new sub!
I didn't want to do do floor leveling but this guy got me fired up to do it. I love how he uses tools that us DIYers would grab from around the house, it makes it so much more relatable.
i have watched numerous diy videos and pro videos , you my friend beat the lot , well done for explaining simply and concisely , learnt more in the time it took to watch you video than all the other ones added together , Thank you 10/10😀
I am just going to say, we should see more of you. There are probably 1000 things you can teach. Not just entire projects but also little things as well. This video was a great start to a channel.
Great job! Handy tip I’ve used before is getting a flat disc on a 9” grinder and just going over the floor for half an hour taking of the high bits, also with mixing I’ll normally add half a bag and give it a quick mix, then add a quarter, mix that then add what’s left, just means you’re not fighting a big lump in the middle, keep up the good work!!
Hey....this was SUPER great. I always wondered how to use a self-levelling compound. This guy made it really easy to understand. Yet another reason to love the British!!! ...and I like some of the comments too. Helpful. Thx....R (From California!!!)
this was an encouraging video to see that 1 person can do such a large room by themself. I have a 500 sqft room I am doing this weekend and have about 35 bags I will be doing. Pumped!
The white gloss on the black bucket has earned a sub straight away.
3 роки тому+5
I encourage you to make more videos, the content is great even for entertainment. I sent this to my friends and they loved it, and they were not interested in leveling floors, till they watched it
Great video, I was just a day late finding it as we did our garage floor yesterday, but the process was pretty much the same. The bags I bought were Blue Circle leveller, 21 quid each and we got through 6 in total (bought 8 to make sure we defo had enough!). It was quite a thick pour due to way the floor undulated, and turned out the Amazon spikey roller's spikes were a bit on the short side and it preferred being a brush. I ran a bead of expanding foam around the corners of the walls to allow for expansion. Came out great, very smooth. Now I grew up on a farm in the 80s and PPE was something other people used, but I've learned my lesson, please wear a mask/respirator when sweeping a floor like that.
A couple of things you might want to consider for priming. On a rough floor like the one in the video you should use a stiff bristle broom instead of a roller. The reason for this is that no matter how carefully you sweep a dusty concrete floor there will always be a residue. By using a broom and scrubbing in the primer you actually incorporate the dust into the primer instead of just rolling over it. It really makes a big difference in the bond strength.. Oh and a convenience tip - instead of pouring the primer directly on the floor, put it into a bug sprayer and spray onto the floor prior to brooming it in. It's neater and prevents puddling.
Yep . Always swirl it around pressing it to be sure it is sticking to the floor and not like dough on a floured rolling pin . Tar on the dussty roof too.
What a fantastic no nonsense video! Great personality too not too dull and not too jokey. Just enough to peak your interest. Need to do more videos. Great content and quality. Would really fly.
I have been a plumber for 15 years, Doing this for the first time tomorrow and watching this has given my the confidence I needed! Great video I am going to subscribe for sure. Thanks a lot!
I loved this video-- it explained several technical issues that I did not understand after watching many other videos. For example, the reason to remove high spots prior to pouring (saves on material) and how different types of compounds are designed for different purposes (thickness, dry time, etc). Thanks! I now feel ready to pour! BN
Oh my. I’ve watched several DIY videos. I enjoy watching them and learning how to do stuff. I’ve replaced my own rotors and brakes, changed out my garbage disposal, and all sorts of stuff. This is the first DIY video that has turned me on. What an attractive, talkative, funny guy who gives great instruction with subtle innuendos.
We get three guys on the job. One is the "Mixer" one is moving material and pouring it out and a third guy is there to clean as we go and make sure the other two guys have what they need at all times. This makes the process go quickly and in a clean and organized fashion. Nothing worse that getting too rushed, dirty or have to stop to clean or do anything but the job at hand. It is beautiful in the end!
Only 3? Bro I have 23, One mixing One cleaning One pouring One standing about texting One shouting at women One levelling One checking its level One checking the levelling guys sober One checking the concrete is dry One wetting concrete after One making tea One preparing food One driving to shops for supplies One checking milk level in tea One checking the milk in coffee And got a few more on general duties, I feel sorry for you only having 3
If you use a piece of wire e.g. cut up a wire coat hanger and hang it over the internal edge of the bucket at the required level you are guaranteed the correct amount of liquid every time without having to search for the measure mark. This works particularly well for mixing coloured 2 pack mixes where you cannot see the measure marks. You just make 2 measure wires. One for part A and one for part B.
Absolutely perfick. Am retired now but did exactly as you advised except for one thing. In Australia we can buy a “walking trowel” specifically for this work. Means you pour as you did by walking pouring the bucket along the perimeter of room and then whilst standing the trowel which is on a broom handle 400mm wide fixed at about 30 degrees on long side and you gently ‘sweep it” back and forth. Great for around toilet pedestals into corners etc. the trowel has the leading edge at right angle to the short sides but rounded on the top clean edge. Was able to do large areas without bending or soiling knees.
Super explanation. I have been trying to find one of these things in the UK - closest I got was a very long featheredge (google: Screwfix magnusson featheredge 70 3/4"). But I'd love to get one on the end of a pole - obviously not that wide though!
What an excellent detailed explanation. Much appreciated. You are a fantastic teacher creating an "I can do it as well feeling"...... Thank you so much.
If you have a short paddle mixer and a lot to mix, build a sturdy platform for the bucket to sit on so that you are standing upright, It will save a lot backache. Also, mixers can take a few seconds to stop so a hanger to suspend the mixer on between uses saves valuable time. The cable tends to wrap around spindle easily as it doesn't stop spinning immediately so I extend the flexible grommet to help keep the cable away from the moving parts.
Love the clever trick of white glossing the bucket, I'd never even realised my black buckets had a measurement in them! Also calibrating is equally good idea, thank you. Now I need a spiky roller with long handle before I start. Great video, please make more
I watch heaps of these advice types of videos on UA-cam as I enjoy doing some work myself, about to raise my kitchen floor 20mm and wanted some tips on using self leveling mix, I came across this video and found it to be about the best one I've seen. Awesome tips well presented, thanks heaps from Melbourne.
Peter Hushin that makes sense. Consider raising your other floors with plywood. It will be cheaper and easier plus plywood will be more structurally stable compared to a cement leveler
Everything I wanted to learn from a very experienced This You Tube Channel is destined for greatness. Excellent presentation, excellent content, very encouraging to DIYers, v.g. Presentation style , excellent professional video style and sound quality. GREAT instruction. Thank you 🙏
17:00 I found myself in the kitchen that 1ml of water is equal of 1gramm exactly. So you can use a scale instead is much more efficient and accurate. 5.5 liter is 5500 ml are equal to 5500 grams or 5.5 kilos of water. Trace a line in the bucket after that.. Pouring severals graduated glass of water into the bucket increase the error marge every time resulting in an innaccurate final reading.
Good video apart from no mention of moisture content. You MUST measure the moisture before you start even on new floors. Damp will blow the screed and any floor coverings. Various products are available to overcome any issues
I Watch construction videos on UA-cam all day long I can say you are the best teacher I found thank you for your knowledge the brought me a lot of business
I am pouring self leveling cement this week - for like 50 sqm. And since it's a pandemic - I will do it myself. This is the best guide - by a mile. And it's in metric !!!
We usually burn the fibers off with either a weed torch or a small propane torch-much easier than cutting them, just make sure there is nothing flammable around if you do burn. After burning sweep or vacuum up ashes.
The explanation on concrete curing "drying" was very well said. This is why you can't leave concrete in a mixer or bucket and simple add more water. It will cure under water. The mix might be different but it will still get hard. Also, this is why concrete is covered with plastic to strengthen it, if the air is very dry. Rain doesn't effect concrete aside from physically disturbing the surface.
Great video for carpenter like myself, I'm about to tackle about 300 sqft of horrible new concrete deck that was poured a month ago. I've used this stuff a few times before but definitely learned some great tips. Many thanks.
Great video! I like the personality and humor as much as I like the instructional process. Excellent descriptions your video really informs while at the same time teaching how to do it properly. Great Job!!
Great video with lots of helpful content, and clever (cute) production too. Tomorrow I’ll be working on a small job. I’ll start by trying to grind down the high spot and then calibrate and follow the math. Thank you from Canada. Metric, for the love of Pete!
I loved everything about this video you were so detailed step-by-step You made it extremely idiot proof Bonus your accent's awesome Loved listening to you and you're a doll To watch🤗🤗 Thank you for this video~
Alex Muir - UA-cam at it's absolute best. Packed with information and wel presented. I have a small personal gym to level and this is everything needed.
I’m having flashbacks to when I did my own floor. 40 bags, alone, only following the instructions on the bag 😂 I got a good result in the end, but it is not as easy as this guy makes it look! The one thing I learned is that I will never do it alone again. It would be really really helpful to have someone mixing for you whilst you only have to worry about spreading it! Nice job though and I like the effect the roller gave. A good non slip finish for a shed 👍
Fanatastic video !!! You totally explained everything in detail . I definitely feel confident in self leveling my basement thanks to your video . Thank you very much ! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent overview! My 2 cents - In addition to the spiky-roller, it also helps to use a notched tiling trowel or notched-adhesive-spreader-on-a-long-broom-handle to really _spread_ the goop around to encourage it to self-level. Also, a squeegee with a long handle can help flattening the goop without straining your back :) BTW - add spacer-tape along the walls, if pouring more than 5mm thick :)
@@TomNouri It's basically an adhesive-backed foam tape - 3mm to 8mm thick. This prevents the poured floor touching the walls and potentially cracking due to slight movement of the wall.
Good intro for DIY enthusiasts. I do thousands of m2 of this stuff every year. Problem is your mixing prep took too long and that spike roller had to go on straight away after pulling. The air bubbles MUST be removed failing which you get a weak floor. Depending on ambient temperature some products have 6 - 10 minutes working time to join to the next mix. Which is not alot of time.
I've always based my man count on the amount of bags needed mixed. 1-4 bags 1 guy can normally do it if he moves fast and knows what he's doing. 4-6 bags at least 2 guys prepped and ready to rock 6-10 bags I double up on everything from there do the math on guys and tools, like some others have said here you want the whole floor liquid in 15-20 minutes, so it levels properly. I like the wire trick mentioned below! Great idea.
Just found ur channel. And wow. I have watched a whole lot of videos. some ok some good but this was great. Well explained. Thank you. Needed this. Redoing a horrible basement bathroom.
In a different UA-cam video on Self-levelling a floor, the only difference was the gentleman cut out a small section of the bucket so excess water would pour out. So he knew his workers were always adding an exact amount of water each and every time.
To be specific: the water mixes with the calcium oxide(lime) to make calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) which in turn reacts with the CO2 in the atmosphere to make calcium carbonate(limestone). Cement is made by reversing the process. They "calcine" limestone which means heat up at a high enough temperature to drive out the CO2 and water from the limestone. The resulting calcium oxide chunks, called Clinker, get ground down to a powder in a tumbler grinder/mill and that's the cement. It's not just Calcium, as it often involves some magnesia and silicates, but the calcium is usually the principal component.
Because this is not self-leveling how I imagine it. If you would like to install a floating floor, this would not be leveled enough... You would have to make much more self-leveling concrete/mixture (in much more bigger container) and pour it at once... Not mentioning that by this way of self-leveling you could have problems with furniture (table, wardrobe etc.), while the floor would not be leveled perfectly.
@@MrTomasekk A "floating floor" by definition is a floor (usually a slab topping) that isn't physically connected to the subfloor structure. An application is to reduce impact sound transmission. If the objective is to achieve a level floor surface over a substrate that deviates from level by in the order of 15mm then a "self levelling" i.e. floor that can flow to form a level surface, is what is being very well demonstrated in this video. If you need to level a floor that's more significantly out of level, a different method can be used. Over an existing concrete floor a concrete topping can be applied by scrabbling the existing surface to form a key, priming with a cement and water mix, pouring, compacting and levelling the floor. If the concrete surface is to achieve its intended strength then covering it with plastic sheet (or keeping it wet) will retain the water required for hydration of the cement in the mix for a sufficient time.
Big job. I remember seeing a truck which mixed self leveller for a second floor. They had squeezecrete to pump. Well done on your job. That's not easy work and lots of cleaning. I had to level on a smooth troweled concrete floor. Since it was a shop on lease. I spoke with an industrial chemist and followed his advice. You can get fine silica sand and mix with cement and also use a screedbond which is a latex synthetic rubberised emulsion system. Say for instance a bonding agent and mixed 50% with water. I mixed at 2.8 cement with silica sand. I used a feathering edge which worked quiet well was pleasing. The area I needed to cover was not as big as what you did. However I achieved pleasing results. Hopefully it hasn't laminated. The problem with self leveller is it is a liquid type of application and it only self levels the area you cover before the liquid hardens.
You would be a millionaire in the USA. Your presentation skills are awesome, your clothing fits the task at hand , unlike the fake front men who present products on television.
Thanks. Excellent presentation with essential information and many useful tips. Maybe a mention of PPE such as a quality dust mask when prepping and using silica based products wouldn't have gone astray. I am sure it's on the products.
My concrete slab under 30 yr old carpet was very dry, dusty, crumbly, etc. I cleaned and swept the cement floor and was told to put. Sealer/ primer on it so I did. I then painted it. Let it dry and it peeled off weeks months later. Even the sealer. Then I tried another way in another room and didn’t seal it. Prime it or anything and used a garage paint. It peeled off I had to redo my entire floor all over agin with acetone and a wire brush by hand. 266 square feet of cement floor. The I just bought rust oleum (stain not paint) he stain actually absorbed into the concrete. Wahlah..it worked. I put a few layers on it so I could have a very deep gray and completely covered the floor. I then went over the stained floor with 2 coats of clear, rust oleum and it dried beautiful!!!! But I ended up with a bumpy shiney floor. So I need to figure out if this leveling will do the trick for me for a beautiful smooth floor.
Why have you only uploaded 3 videos? Mate you're the best DIY explainer I've seen on UA-cam!
Probably he's just not looked at his channel in a while... life gets in the way sometimes🤷♂ I agree it's too bad. He's very good at explaining things and the videos he's done are quite good!
I was going to diy this job and came across 5 good youtube videos. Then i came across the best and truly complete one. I unsaved the earlier 5. One great video is all i need. Thank you.
a friend of mine does all types of stone/tile work. He said if doing a large job with many bucket mixings, fill a bucket to the exact amount of water then drill a hole at the top level. you'll always have the correct amount of water to pour into mixing bucket.
Don Proctor that is such a good tip thanks
Genius!
@barkershill ??? .... you decide where to drill the hole based on the volume or weight of substance you wish to consistently measure. If you want 5 gallons or 2 litres you will fill the bucket to the level you want and then drill a hole at the fill line so any excess drips away. ....
Looking at the walls of that building , obviously they need pointing /rendering /painting . Would it not have been better to do that first and save messing up the new floor?
Learn from my mistake! My son and I were pouring self levelling concrete over newly laid 3/4" plywood to lay down a concrete floor for a bathroom (to be tiled). I mixed and my son poured and spread. We needed 8 bags of cement. The problem was the cement started to set rather quickly, after about 15 minutes. So when my son poured freshly mixed concrete it refused to meld with the setting concrete and created lumps and dents. It took me half a day to grind off a big bump in the floor. Plus we had to do another corrective pour to fill an area that was lower (a big dent). This all could have been avoided if a) 1 mixed 2 bags at once in a larger container like a garbage can, mixing one bucket at a time was too slow, you need to have as much liquidy cement on the floor as possible 2) had we had a spiked roller to even the edges and 3) watched this video.
how is this dfiferent from concrete mix ? aside from sel leving at $45 a bag vs $8 a bag for concrete bag
Self levelling is easier as it does what it says. Cement/concrete requires effort and skill as you physically have to level it.
Now it may come down to cost as self leveller is way more expensive and goes off very quick versus cement where you have much longer to work with.
"Ribbed - but not for my pleasure" 😂🤣.Alex is clear, concise, informative, and funny. Great video.Thanks for posting.
Pretty good video - you covered just about everything, and clearly. A couple of points I'd add: #1 / I totally agree with the viewer who said you need a person mixing and helping with the carrying, so that the spreader can concentrate on that. You want as much as possible of the area to be runny at the same time. Once the compound starts to firm up, you will have lost the opportunity to achieve a truly level floor. YOU DON'T GET A SECOND CHANCE with this stuff. #2/ The spiked roller is almost essential if you want a really smooth and level finish. The spikes constantly break the surface tension, HUGELY aiding the leveling process. The difference between spiked rolling, and trowelling only, has to be experienced to be believed. I have tried both, and I will NEVER again do a project without the spiked roller. 3/ Spiked shoe bases again are highly recommended, if at all possible, as you can walk all over the job without leaving craters, that may or may not level up properly. #4 / Don't try to feather out any edges to a zero thickness, certainly if the leveller is intended to be your finished surface. Apart from that .. happy levelling. It's a great addition to the building game.
I love your no no-nonsense approach and your sense of humour. I think this is the best video for doing this on the web and no annoying music while you talk so you can hear what you're saying.
This is one of the best videos I have seen. Incredibly in depth and very well explained. Plus, for your American friends (me) I truly appreciate the conversion from Meters to Feet etc.
I've no plans to self level a floor yet still watched it from start to finish. Great detailed video.
I've always wondered why the primer was necessary. Your explanation is exemplary. Thank you. It makes total sense that an unprimed floor would sap the water too fast for a good cure. Exelent advice that got you a new sub!
I didn't want to do do floor leveling but this guy got me fired up to do it. I love how he uses tools that us DIYers would grab from around the house, it makes it so much more relatable.
Dont have a anevrism when you check the prices on a colomix mixer 🤣
Great job...moved along quickly with lots of good information while working in real time. Very informative and easy to watch...
i have watched numerous diy videos and pro videos , you my friend beat the lot , well done for explaining simply and concisely ,
learnt more in the time it took to watch you video than all the other ones added together , Thank you 10/10😀
This geezer could be on TV no problem, great presenting style.
I am just going to say, we should see more of you. There are probably 1000 things you can teach. Not just entire projects but also little things as well. This video was a great start to a channel.
Great job! Handy tip I’ve used before is getting a flat disc on a 9” grinder and just going over the floor for half an hour taking of the high bits, also with mixing I’ll normally add half a bag and give it a quick mix, then add a quarter, mix that then add what’s left, just means you’re not fighting a big lump in the middle, keep up the good work!!
Hey....this was SUPER great. I always wondered how to use a self-levelling compound. This guy made it really easy to understand. Yet another reason to love the British!!! ...and I like some of the comments too. Helpful. Thx....R (From California!!!)
this was an encouraging video to see that 1 person can do such a large room by themself. I have a 500 sqft room I am doing this weekend and have about 35 bags I will be doing. Pumped!
I've watched a ton of videos on a lot of things. You my friend are a great communicator and teacher. great job. can't say enough. !!
When a bloke tells you to calibrate your bucket, you know you're at the business end.
I agree. Thank you for the lesson.
@@Debonair.Aristocrat whats a bloke?
The white gloss on the black bucket has earned a sub straight away.
I encourage you to make more videos, the content is great even for entertainment. I sent this to my friends and they loved it, and they were not interested in leveling floors, till they watched it
Very well presented, making it so easy to follow.
If not already you should be on TV
Great video, I was just a day late finding it as we did our garage floor yesterday, but the process was pretty much the same. The bags I bought were Blue Circle leveller, 21 quid each and we got through 6 in total (bought 8 to make sure we defo had enough!). It was quite a thick pour due to way the floor undulated, and turned out the Amazon spikey roller's spikes were a bit on the short side and it preferred being a brush. I ran a bead of expanding foam around the corners of the walls to allow for expansion. Came out great, very smooth.
Now I grew up on a farm in the 80s and PPE was something other people used, but I've learned my lesson, please wear a mask/respirator when sweeping a floor like that.
A couple of things you might want to consider for priming. On a rough floor like the one in the video you should use a stiff bristle broom instead of a roller. The reason for this is that no matter how carefully you sweep a dusty concrete floor there will always be a residue. By using a broom and scrubbing in the primer you actually incorporate the dust into the primer instead of just rolling over it. It really makes a big difference in the bond strength.. Oh and a convenience tip - instead of pouring the primer directly on the floor, put it into a bug sprayer and spray onto the floor prior to brooming it in. It's neater and prevents puddling.
We used to sweep/ mop the dusty floor/sweep mop again if needed. Then use a thick nap roller. I like your ideas though! Every trick helps
@@drakevelazquez8728 many priming products reccomend to use a broom /brush on concrete not a roller
I like the broom idea. Great tip we're just getting into interior coatings
Yep . Always swirl it around pressing it to be sure it is sticking to the floor and not like dough on a floured rolling pin .
Tar on the dussty roof too.
@@gregorydahl Dirt and dust on anything....
How have you only made 3 videos like 6 years ago? Seriously. this has to be the best explanation for self leveling cement I have found.
The best explanation on floor levelling I have seen thus far. Congratulations and thank you.
What a fantastic no nonsense video! Great personality too not too dull and not too jokey. Just enough to peak your interest. Need to do more videos. Great content and quality. Would really fly.
I have been a plumber for 15 years, Doing this for the first time tomorrow and watching this has given my the confidence I needed! Great video I am going to subscribe for sure. Thanks a lot!
How'd it go?
@@May4thbwithu it went ok... ive done it quite alot since this comment and learnt from a few mistakes haha.
I loved this video-- it explained several technical issues that I did not understand after watching many other videos. For example, the reason to remove high spots prior to pouring (saves on material) and how different types of compounds are designed for different purposes (thickness, dry time, etc). Thanks! I now feel ready to pour! BN
What a shame you didn’t continue making vids. This one was fantastic, with great production quality, excellent explanation, etc.
To the point narrative, sharing typical on the job situational comedy is refreshing! That is why we love our jobs, we enjoy life as we do our task!
Brilliant way of teaching, like a professor. Absolutely enjoyable.
Well done and thank you. Your video is better than most professional sales videos. Thumbs up for your cameraman/woman too! Great job!
This is the best video I have ever seen .... The editing is superb, the explanations sooooo detailed. So consice. Loooove this guy! (y)
Oh my. I’ve watched several DIY videos. I enjoy watching them and learning how to do stuff. I’ve replaced my own rotors and brakes, changed out my garbage disposal, and all sorts of stuff. This is the first DIY video that has turned me on. What an attractive, talkative, funny guy who gives great instruction with subtle innuendos.
We get three guys on the job. One is the "Mixer" one is moving material and pouring it out and a third guy is there to clean as we go and make sure the other two guys have what they need at all times. This makes the process go quickly and in a clean and organized fashion. Nothing worse that getting too rushed, dirty or have to stop to clean or do anything but the job at hand. It is beautiful in the end!
Only 3? Bro I have 23,
One mixing
One cleaning
One pouring
One standing about texting
One shouting at women
One levelling
One checking its level
One checking the levelling guys sober
One checking the concrete is dry
One wetting concrete after
One making tea
One preparing food
One driving to shops for supplies
One checking milk level in tea
One checking the milk in coffee
And got a few more on general duties, I feel sorry for you only having 3
@@lildeanc Looks like the work will be done just right, with tea and food ready on time LOL
@@bohakasha🤣 you’d be suprised, somtimes more monkeys make more mess than one
I liked this for the primer dry floor water sucking explanation.
If you use a piece of wire e.g. cut up a wire coat hanger and hang it over the internal edge of the bucket at the required level you are guaranteed the correct amount of liquid every time without having to search for the measure mark. This works particularly well for mixing coloured 2 pack mixes where you cannot see the measure marks. You just make 2 measure wires. One for part A and one for part B.
genius a small screw would work too
Great video! You gave so much detail without boring the viewers. I feel much more confident about trying this myself now. Thanks
1 minute into the video and i already love this video due to the usage of metric system
Absolutely perfick. Am retired now but did exactly as you advised except for one thing. In Australia we can buy a “walking trowel” specifically for this work. Means you pour as you did by walking pouring the bucket along the perimeter of room and then whilst standing the trowel which is on a broom handle 400mm wide fixed at about 30 degrees on long side and you gently ‘sweep it” back and forth. Great for around toilet pedestals into corners etc. the trowel has the leading edge at right angle to the short sides but rounded on the top clean edge. Was able to do large areas without bending or soiling knees.
Super explanation. I have been trying to find one of these things in the UK - closest I got was a very long featheredge (google: Screwfix magnusson featheredge 70 3/4"). But I'd love to get one on the end of a pole - obviously not that wide though!
What an excellent detailed explanation. Much appreciated. You are a fantastic teacher creating an "I can do it as well feeling"...... Thank you so much.
If you have a short paddle mixer and a lot to mix, build a sturdy platform for the bucket to sit on so that you are standing upright, It will save a lot backache.
Also, mixers can take a few seconds to stop so a hanger to suspend the mixer on between uses saves valuable time.
The cable tends to wrap around spindle easily as it doesn't stop spinning immediately so I extend the flexible grommet to help keep the cable away from the moving parts.
Love the clever trick of white glossing the bucket, I'd never even realised my black buckets had a measurement in them! Also calibrating is equally good idea, thank you. Now I need a spiky roller with long handle before I start. Great video, please make more
I watch heaps of these advice types of videos on UA-cam as I enjoy doing some work myself, about to raise my kitchen floor 20mm and wanted some tips on using self leveling mix, I came across this video and found it to be about the best one I've seen. Awesome tips well presented, thanks heaps from Melbourne.
Peter Hushin why are you raising your floors that much?
@@mikeo6525 I installed wooden floors and with the 10mm ply and then the wooden planks it took to gap to between 20 - 25mm difference
Peter Hushin that makes sense. Consider raising your other floors with plywood. It will be cheaper and easier plus plywood will be more structurally stable compared to a cement leveler
what just happened? I m not a DIY man but that was one of the best videos Ive ever watched. brillant stuff dude. keep it up. I just learnt somethign!
Everything I wanted to learn from a very experienced This You Tube Channel is destined for greatness. Excellent presentation, excellent content, very encouraging to DIYers, v.g. Presentation style , excellent professional video style and sound quality. GREAT instruction. Thank you 🙏
So many gems hidden in your casual talking
17:00 I found myself in the kitchen that 1ml of water is equal of 1gramm exactly. So you can use a scale instead is much more efficient and accurate. 5.5 liter is 5500 ml are equal to 5500 grams or 5.5 kilos of water.
Trace a line in the bucket after that..
Pouring severals graduated glass of water into the bucket increase the error marge every time resulting in an innaccurate final reading.
1000l Is equal 1000kg at 4 degrees c
Good video apart from no mention of moisture content. You MUST measure the moisture before you start even on new floors. Damp will blow the screed and any floor coverings. Various products are available to overcome any issues
Great video, when I am mixing 21 bags worth I get them open ready and a large water tub full of water saves wasting time 👌👍
Great technique tx!
So much knowledge in just one video, you should have 4.5m subs instead of 4.5k
Excellent. Best on UA-cam regarding this subject and great tips below. Will be doing my garage soon.
Fantastic presenter. Deffo should be on TV!
I Watch construction videos on UA-cam all day long I can say you are the best teacher I found thank you for your knowledge the brought me a lot of business
Great guide clear instructions cant believe it only has 3 videos on the channel
Inspite of dots left (could be very benificial later), you did great job and your explanation was at educational level. Thank you.
I am pouring self leveling cement this week - for like 50 sqm. And since it's a pandemic - I will do it myself. This is the best guide - by a mile. And it's in metric !!!
I've never learned so much while having been flipped off at the same time. Thanks!
You are a great teacher. This vid and the roof one are brilliant!
Very helpful. I might be tempted to blowtorch those threads off before starting.
I was thinking to use a garden strimmer but a blowtorch would be great too.
I plan to level my garage floors this weekend using this product. Hoping for the best...
We usually burn the fibers off with either a weed torch or a small propane torch-much easier than cutting them, just make sure there is nothing flammable around if you do burn. After burning sweep or vacuum up ashes.
The explanation on concrete curing "drying" was very well said. This is why you can't leave concrete in a mixer or bucket and simple add more water. It will cure under water. The mix might be different but it will still get hard. Also, this is why concrete is covered with plastic to strengthen it, if the air is very dry. Rain doesn't effect concrete aside from physically disturbing the surface.
Great video for carpenter like myself, I'm about to tackle about 300 sqft of horrible new concrete deck that was poured a month ago. I've used this stuff a few times before but definitely learned some great tips.
Many thanks.
Great video! I like the personality and humor as much as I like the instructional process. Excellent descriptions your video really informs while at the same time teaching how to do it properly. Great Job!!
Good discussion on the importance of primer and priming.
Bro your videos are great. "Just calibrate your bucket " ...lol. First time I heard that, but you're 100% correct.
Excellent thank you for sharing the problems that occurred at the end something to look towards avoiding!!!
Great video with lots of helpful content, and clever (cute) production too. Tomorrow I’ll be working on a small job. I’ll start by trying to grind down the high spot and then calibrate and follow the math. Thank you from Canada. Metric, for the love of Pete!
Great video. Wish I'd watched it before attempting to level my kitchen floor.
I loved everything about this video you were so detailed step-by-step You made it extremely idiot proof Bonus your accent's awesome Loved listening to you and you're a doll To watch🤗🤗 Thank you for this video~
Excellent video. Explained so much more than other videos that were just selling their product. Loved your talking.
Alex Muir - UA-cam at it's absolute best. Packed with information and wel presented. I have a small personal gym to level and this is everything needed.
You are a great instructor, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
I’m having flashbacks to when I did my own floor. 40 bags, alone, only following the instructions on the bag 😂 I got a good result in the end, but it is not as easy as this guy makes it look! The one thing I learned is that I will never do it alone again. It would be really really helpful to have someone mixing for you whilst you only have to worry about spreading it!
Nice job though and I like the effect the roller gave. A good non slip finish for a shed 👍
If you are working fast enough, and that means having enough people for the size of the job, you won't end up with the spiked roller 'dimples'.
Fanatastic video !!! You totally explained everything in detail . I definitely feel confident in self leveling my basement thanks to your video . Thank you very much ! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent overview! My 2 cents - In addition to the spiky-roller, it also helps to use a notched tiling trowel or notched-adhesive-spreader-on-a-long-broom-handle to really _spread_ the goop around to encourage it to self-level. Also, a squeegee with a long handle can help flattening the goop without straining your back :) BTW - add spacer-tape along the walls, if pouring more than 5mm thick :)
What’s spacer tape?
@@TomNouri It's basically an adhesive-backed foam tape - 3mm to 8mm thick. This prevents the poured floor touching the walls and potentially cracking due to slight movement of the wall.
Thanks for the info 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good intro for DIY enthusiasts. I do thousands of m2 of this stuff every year. Problem is your mixing prep took too long and that spike roller had to go on straight away after pulling. The air bubbles MUST be removed failing which you get a weak floor. Depending on ambient temperature some products have 6 - 10 minutes working time to join to the next mix. Which is not alot of time.
Excellent video thank you - Retired Site Engineer/ NHS Works Officer / DIY er
Thanks now armed with the correct method my garage floor will finally be smooth and level.
I've always based my man count on the amount of bags needed mixed.
1-4 bags 1 guy can normally do it if he moves fast and knows what he's doing.
4-6 bags at least 2 guys prepped and ready to rock
6-10 bags I double up on everything
from there do the math on guys and tools, like some others have said here you want the whole floor liquid in 15-20 minutes, so it levels properly. I like the wire trick mentioned below! Great idea.
Just found ur channel. And wow. I have watched a whole lot of videos. some ok some good but this was great. Well explained. Thank you. Needed this. Redoing a horrible basement bathroom.
You are an awesome teacher. I'm going to try this. I loved the scientific explanations
In a different UA-cam video on Self-levelling a floor, the only difference was the gentleman cut out a small section of the bucket so excess water would pour out. So he knew his workers were always adding an exact amount of water each and every time.
Which video?
Now they have ruined a bucket with a hole in it. Just get a stick with a highly visible marker.
@John Jones i think your right there , a bucket only costs a quid
To be specific: the water mixes with the calcium oxide(lime) to make calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) which in turn reacts with the CO2 in the atmosphere to make calcium carbonate(limestone).
Cement is made by reversing the process. They "calcine" limestone which means heat up at a high enough temperature to drive out the CO2 and water from the limestone. The resulting calcium oxide chunks, called Clinker, get ground down to a powder in a tumbler grinder/mill and that's the cement.
It's not just Calcium, as it often involves some magnesia and silicates, but the calcium is usually the principal component.
One of the best informative videos I’ve ever seen. Thorough concise and extremely well explained! Thank you very much
I love this. The advice seems to be based on experience.
Very well-made video! Just about to do a room now. Feel fairly confident after watching this. Thank you.
What can 685 grouches find wrong with this detailed, complete and well presented video?
Because this is not self-leveling how I imagine it. If you would like to install a floating floor, this would not be leveled enough... You would have to make much more self-leveling concrete/mixture (in much more bigger container) and pour it at once... Not mentioning that by this way of self-leveling you could have problems with furniture (table, wardrobe etc.), while the floor would not be leveled perfectly.
@@MrTomasekk A "floating floor" by definition is a floor (usually a slab topping) that isn't physically connected to the subfloor structure. An application is to reduce impact sound transmission. If the objective is to achieve a level floor surface over a substrate that deviates from level by in the order of 15mm then a "self levelling" i.e. floor that can flow to form a level surface, is what is being very well demonstrated in this video. If you need to level a floor that's more significantly out of level, a different method can be used. Over an existing concrete floor a concrete topping can be applied by scrabbling the existing surface to form a key, priming with a cement and water mix, pouring, compacting and levelling the floor. If the concrete surface is to achieve its intended strength then covering it with plastic sheet (or keeping it wet) will retain the water required for hydration of the cement in the mix for a sufficient time.
Genuinely the best DIY video I've seen. cheers so much!
Great Vid Alex. Love painting a little gloss over the measurement guide :)
Haha brilliant. Never thought SLC could be so entertaining, nice one.
That white gloss tip is brilliant ! Thank's
Big job. I remember seeing a truck which mixed self leveller for a second floor. They had squeezecrete to pump.
Well done on your job. That's not easy work and lots of cleaning. I had to level on a smooth troweled concrete floor.
Since it was a shop on lease.
I spoke with an industrial chemist and followed his advice. You can get fine silica sand and mix with cement and also use a screedbond which is a latex synthetic rubberised emulsion system. Say for instance a bonding agent and mixed 50% with water.
I mixed at 2.8 cement with silica sand.
I used a feathering edge which worked quiet well was pleasing. The area I needed to cover was not as big as what you did. However I achieved pleasing results.
Hopefully it hasn't laminated. The problem with self leveller is it is a liquid type of application and it only self levels the area you cover before the liquid hardens.
this is a great educational video. i don't understand why the thumbs down. Too many trolls?
?
For me it was all going so well until I clapped eyes on the stippled floor finish in the last minute. Floor looks like it has a rash.
You would be a millionaire in the USA. Your presentation skills are awesome, your clothing fits the task at hand , unlike the fake front men who present products on television.
I'm here just for the intro graphic, that was sick.
Thanks. Excellent presentation with essential information and many useful tips. Maybe a mention of PPE such as a quality dust mask when prepping and using silica based products wouldn't have gone astray. I am sure it's on the products.
My concrete slab under 30 yr old carpet was very dry, dusty, crumbly, etc. I cleaned and swept the cement floor and was told to put. Sealer/ primer on it so I did. I then painted it. Let it dry and it peeled off weeks months later. Even the sealer. Then I tried another way in another room and didn’t seal it. Prime it or anything and used a garage paint. It peeled off I had to redo my entire floor all over agin with acetone and a wire brush by hand. 266 square feet of cement floor. The I just bought rust oleum (stain not paint) he stain actually absorbed into the concrete. Wahlah..it worked. I put a few layers on it so I could have a very deep gray and completely covered the floor. I then went over the stained floor with 2 coats of clear, rust oleum and it dried beautiful!!!! But I ended up with a bumpy shiney floor. So I need to figure out if this leveling will do the trick for me for a beautiful smooth floor.