It’s good to know you are adopting a sort of “good - better - best” system for your packages, as many other boat detailers seem to be doing lately. All my fundamental knowledge came from your videos and courses so I’ve been offering only one package (the 3 step full blown restoration). But I’ve noticed as you mentioned in another comment that not everyone wants or can afford a flawless finish. I think I may need to re-assess my packages.
Hey Drake! Love your videos and I thank you a lot for what you have thought me through your videos since you started. Quick tip I learned working in PR, at 14:30 before you bump up the speed, clean/fluff your pad with your spur(no need to add polish). It will drastically reduce the vibration and cut smoother. God Bless
I washed, buffed and washed my 99 Malibu Response today. Tomorrow will be polishing with a DA. Thanks for all the info, would not have attempted without your videos. Shoulders are killing me because the highest vertical section I could do was maybe 16”. Ski boats suck to do. 😂
Drake, you are fucking amazing at what you do. Truly the best of the best. I have learned so much from watching your content. I implemented your techniques in my boat detailing business and its now thriving more than ever. Much love from Norway, keep doing what your doing!
Started watching your videos awhile ago while being laid up here at the VA hospital and now I'm getting out and ready to try them on my Ranger bass boat after getting home. Thanks for the informative info and have already got the Makita rotary and just need the waxer.
Just reading the comments answered so many questions I had. Nice! A few more, if I may. 1 - When using your Flex 4301, do you use the 4-3/8” adapter plate and 5.5” pads? 2 - My boat deck and gunnels have a rough finish, like a Carolina Skiff, is there much that can be done to protect them and make them easier to keep clean? Maybe a brush style applicator using a polish like Jescar? Or would Starbrite deck wash and non-skid wax work better? 3 - What would you suggest to protect a Tempress style hatch cover that is made from “glass filled polypropylene “. Maybe the same method as is used for non-skid deck, or just stay with something like 303 Protectant?
m.ua-cam.com/video/ibfh8ucS1K8/v-deo.html hey bro, here’s the answer to your second question right here in this video. I don’t use the adapter on my flax, mostly because I don’t use it anymore. I know use a Roops Millie Forced rotation polisher instead of the 3401. Finally, for the hatches, 303 fabric guard works pretty good if there is a cover on the hatch. Hope this helps!
Used DRAKE 15 at Maxshine and was discounted $20! Really enjoying your videos. I have a camper and a boat that can use some attention. I am going to give it a try based on your work on camera. Thank you!
Hey Drake, thanks for all of the great info you share. What is your process for polishing a black rubber rub rail? And, are you using Shine Supply Clutch for anything? Thanks!
Awesome videos.... all of em. Giving me the confidence to do my 30 year old 25ft. I'm going with the 4 step using all the products u use. 1 question u used daddy o in this video over jescar power lock.... why? Before I place my shine supply order I'm curious why u went with daddy o and the pros/cons of both
Hey bro! Just something different- I like Shane supply products a lot so I’ll try to use them wherever I can- This will create more water beads, the jar product will create more of a water sheen off of the surface.
Great step by step. I've watched you for quite awhile and use your process for detailing my 2003 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer. I've recently used Turtle Wax 53409 Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating on my car which turned out fantastic. It says it's good for boats...what's your thoughts? Super easy to apply, would sure be a time saver if it works well!
I’m not a big fan of anything turtle wax on boats, it’s just not made to hold hold up to the harsh, marine environment. For cars, it would be fine, but in my opinion not for boats. 😉
But did you try the new 53409 Hybrid Solutions product on a boat to test that theory? I know they didn't have a great reputation back in the day, but...times change. Project Farm has rated this product better than any other, twice! Seems extremely durable and effective. Worth a test.
Could you make a detailed video about edge work and what kind of hardware it takes to get In between tight places? I just did an Rv oxidation removal and it came out good but working the small areas was a pain in the ass. Great video by the way the content just keeps getting better!
m.ua-cam.com/video/rXQgxvH1OTs/v-deo.html m.ua-cam.com/video/xaCvzA4I1Bg/v-deo.html These aren’t videos specifically on how to buff small areas, but they do show me doing some of that in these. However, these are more reviews more or less for these two small polishers. The is a really good tool if you were looking to detail in tight spaces.
I greatly appreciate you spending time teaching how to clean & prep, cut, wax and polish a boat in Florida. What temperatures are acceptable for this? I’m assuming too hot or cold would make the process difficult or impossible. Thank you 🙏
Hey bro! Anytime. Just make sure the temperature is not much below 40°, and the heat index doesn’t exceed 95 to 100°. Anything about that will just make it plain miserable ;)
Hey, what is your opinion about the safety risk with the vibrations of the polish machine? I heard it can mess up your nerves in your hand over time. Was wondering if that’s a myth or not.
Unfortunately it’s almost impossible to do step home with a DA polisher. The compound needs to be worked in really good and hard by rotary buffer, the DA is just not powerful enough to cut through heavy oxidation. However, for the rest of the steps, you could probably get away with DA if that’s what the budget allows 😎
@@DrakesDetailingthanks for the guidance, I was trying to avoid getting one more tool but it’s a boat so I figure will be ordering one. I’ll use your link, thanks!
Definitely going to try this combo - this is perfect for most of my boat clients. I didn’t think Wake up had enough bite to remove holograms from Heavy Cut, but I’ve never tried it with the rupes wool pads. Have you found any uses for the Rupes Blue course wool pad? Super helpful video 💪
I will tell you it will not perfectly removal all swirls… but it will get about 75 percentage of them out with used with the Rupes yellow wool. I do tell my customers this and I have yet to have one customer not be ok with it for the price break
Great video brother! I was lost till I found this video, keep up the good work! I'm going to use this process on my 22 Sea Hunt after watching this. The shine supply site has Daddy-O paint sealant and Cherry Ceramic Wax can I use either for step 3? Your link for the wax goes to a different product on Amazon, not sure which I should be using. Thank!!
Hey bro! Those are good, just car power lock is a very good polymer sealant as well. If you want to go to ceramic route, shine supplies bead lock is very good as well.
@@DrakesDetailing I ordered all my products using your code, plan on doing heavy cut, chop top, wake up then Daddy-O using all your recommended pads. I see in your other videos you do a dawn wash before wax, should I do a dawn soap wash after the medium cut or should I do the dawn wash after the wakeup?
Hey bro! It all depends on what the condition of the gel coat is. In this case, there was some oxidation that needed to be taken care of with the initial step because the customer wanted his boat to look good for the season. In my opinion, there’s really no one size fits all machine. But if there was a boatowner, that was going to have one, I’d recommend the forced rotation polisher. It has a little bit of cutting, and you can polish and wax with it as well.
I’m buffing above the toe rail on my dads 34’ Chris craft Catalina I’m finding myself fighting with the cord when working in tight areas would recommend a cordless buffer in this situation thanks again
In my opinion, a cordless buffer will never have the cutting power needed for what you were doing, my suggestion is to tie the cord somewhere out-of-the-way where it’s not going to be falling in the way of the spindle.
Hi Drake, love your videos. What makes you decide on what you're using. For example; I notice that on some videos you use Chop-Top religiously after the heavy cut, and some you skip and go into the wake-up. Whats the thought process there? Thank you in advance and many blessings!
Hey bro! It all boils down to every single gelcoat being different. Sometimes wake-up is enough to remove the swirls if we use the right pad, and others we need to throw another step into it to pull more imperfections out. It also depends on what the customer is paying for. To save them some money, sometimes we go straight to wake up to eliminate another step in the process to keep costs down.
@@DrakesDetailing Amazing explanation, making the price negotiable can make the difference of closing a deal or not when a client cant afford a upsale; makes sense! thank you for your time.
Did you use a non forced rotation Da because the boat was in pretty good shape? Would you still use a forced rotation if the boast needed more polishing. I was looking to pick up a machine in addition to a rotary and was wondering what I should get? Thank you for all your videos I've learned a lot.
Hey bro! In this particular situation, I didn’t feel it was necessary given the products I was using. However, every gel code is completely different. If you were looking to add another machine, in addition to your rotary, I would personally vote the forced rotation.
Any reason why you used the yellow wool for the Wakeup in this video compared to using orange CCS in previous videos, are there situations where each one works better, or do you just prefer the wool now? Just ordering supplies to go over my boat and wondering if I should have both? Thanks for the great videos, as a boat owner I have learnt a lot from them!
Hey bro! Just a different way. it eliminates a step, so you can even make it a little bit cheaper for your customer this way, and to be honest, some different processes just work better for different gelcoat situations than others.
After the heavy cut. When do you use Chop top vs Wake Up. Im about to do my boat this week. In other videos you used chop top. Then jescar. Then another protectant
Thanks for the question! I am going to make a video on this to explain further 💯 If you want a quick shine, do what I did in this video. If you want a flawless finish I would do heavy cut white wool rotary, chop top yellow wool rotary, wake up orange foam da, Jescar or daddy o for your wax.
Am installing van roof vent on fiber glass extended high top. The goal is to thoroughly clean for maximum adhesion of the vent sealant Butyl tape. What do you recommend for maximum cleaning that won't damage gel coat? Would plain ol alcohol be just as good?
Hey bro! You didn’t miss anything, I don’t have a video specifically for that. But if if I ever have one to do, I will definitely keep it on the list to make a video for it!😎
@@DrakesDetailing well then I guess you’re welcome on giving you an idea for a new video🤣 the black is a pain to keep looking good though so I’ll be waiting for the video lol
This question is for my personal boat. I did a three step cut/polish/wax on some old videos you had back in 21 using different products. I've put Jescar only on in 22 and it didn't get out last season (boat has been covered). I switched to shine supply for my cars and wanted to redo a buff/polish/wax process on my boat. Would adding a fourth step using chop top on a yellow wool pad be over kill? Also, do you have thoughts on spider cracks in the fiber glass? Grid them out and try to repair them, or is it just wear and tear on older boats. Its an 97 older BW.
Thanks for the question! If you want todo chop top you’ll want todo that as step 2. So it would do heavy cut, chop top, wake up then wax. That’s my usually system when I am going after a flawless finish
Have you ever tried microfiber pads ? I'm curious because I will have to do a 2 steps gelcoat correction on a boat, and it's my first time. I only have experience with cars. From my experience with cars, microfiber cutting pads tend to cut and finish very well even with a cutting paste. Thank you
I used to use microfiber pads all the time to apply my jar, polymer sealant. they work wonderfully! However, I know some people are a fan of using leper light cutting, I am not a huge fan of using them for that purpose. I just don’t find they work that well. I still like them for applying sealant and have nothing against them.
I have a blue winnebago camper that is badly oxidized but I only have a forced rotation polisher. What pads would you use to remove the oxidation and what products.
You never want to take a rub-rail off, they are a pain to put back on, and that is a lot of liability on you if you are a detailer that I would not risk. maxshineusa.com/product/cordless-dual-action-polisher/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAACfS6HFN3d0tKgcPwJXsjhfJ49MMy&gclid=CjwKCAjw2Je1BhAgEiwAp3KY75tJ7v0sr_pnSZo0WT-61dyP5_t4eWzCPzJ_lQaxauGx3sZKll6KNRoCdQwQAvD_BwE Maxshine makes a great mini polisher that is great for those hard to reach areas! Use my discount code DRAKE15 at checkout! 😎
Nice video, just bought the 3D one today for my camping trailer made with gelcoat, can you help me please? After I apply the compound my surface was very good looking so I decide to wax it with cleaner wax, the surface was pretty nice too with the wax. Once the sun appear I can see some haze underneet the wax kind of a window that as been not wash good. Why do you think it his appenning ? Thanks for your help.
Hi Steve, you probably left some cleaner wax on the camper and the sun hit it. It probably just dried on there. You can try to polish it out or scrub it out.
@@DrakesDetailing Thanks you were right I had cleaner wax stick to my walls, I guess was to warm outside or cleaner wax doesn't work after compound, maybe because the surface is too clean.....
Drake isn't it necessary to wash after polishing and before waxing? I thought that was a needed step to get rid of any residuals in the compound so that the surface is optimized for the wax/sealant to bond to? If so, is Dawn best for that? Thanks for these videos man. I'm learning how to take care of my center console myself because of the knowledge you share here.
Hey bro, after the chop top step, you can use Don Was or alcohol wipe to remove the contaminants, however, after wake up, you do not want to wash it off with a degreaser. Wake up has a bonding agent in it that helps the sealant step afterwards to bond to it better.
Hey seen multiple of your videos. My question to you is when you are washing, polishing and waxing. Are you doing this in the shade? Or doing each side with the sun in the opposite direction?
I do it in all sorts of conditions, the only time you really can’t do it is when it is pouring rain. Otherwise you can do it in the direct sunlight, and shade. if you’re doing it in the shade, just try to make sure it’s not below 40°, and if you’re doing it in the direct sun, not hotter than 95 to 100° if possible. Also, if you’re buffing in the direct sunlight and applying sealant and coatings, they can tend to dry a lot faster, and you will need to be mindful of your timeliness and removing the product.
Awesome video Drake!! Question man I’ve been doing it awhile but still haven’t learned how to handle customers who have a small budget and are ok with it not being mirror finished. For instance I have a 24’ Sea Chaser I’m doing now that has enough oxidation to sand, but the customer doesn’t want to spend that much right now so I have just cut with Level R, Elevate and Sealed. But I know that it’s not the end results I like or want and it drives me insane. They’re happy but I’m not if that makes sense 😂 how do you handle these situations? The ones who “just want some wax” or “a little shine”?
Give the customer what he wants brother, This stuff drives me crazy as well because I want to shoot for perfection... But sometimes we want something the boat owner doesn't even want or need. That's why we came up with the buff and shine package for this exact scenario.
been watching alot of your videos and just curious why you skipped the chop top step after the compound and used wake up for step 2? Ive been building the confidence to do my own boat by watching alot of your videos but now im confused lol.. my rig is white with a blue stripe and has heavy oxidation any info would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks
Hey bro! This is just a different way of doing it, I still do it the other way, and will not stop doing it that way, but this is just a different way to do it. Also, for some gel coats, different processes, work differently. For a gel coat, that’s not too bad badly oxidized, this is a perfect step because you don’t do too much heavy buffing, but it’s still pretty oxidized just one step of heavy buffing, followed by polishing and sealing. However, if your boat is heavily oxidized, then I would stick with my first method of heavy cut, chop chop, then wake up.
Drake, in many of your other videos after you heavy cut or chop top, you wash the boat again to get rid of the oils in the compound before applying wake up or jescar. Don’t we need to wash between compound/polish?
I have vinyl graphics on my Baja 277 and the gel coat is in need of a good buffing polish and waxing! Will the abrasive nature of the cut and polish be ok on the vinyl?
Yes, it will be fine, and it will actually help bring some life back to the graphics. However***. You can potentially burn through them, I would only use about half the pressure on the graphics that you would use on the gelcoat
If my boat is waxed yearly and cleaned (properly) every use, can I just use a microfiber pad on my M8 V2 and some type of polish/cleaner? Or a sealant?
Absolutely! It boat, clean and protected every couple months versus letting it go a year or two, then needing to compound polish and start from the beginning again.
I apply my Jescar sealant by hand! I was never able to find a pad that applied the Jescar properly. I use a red diamond cut pad on my max da to remove my Jescar after 30 minutes. I follow it up with the Jescar detailing spray
@@DrakesDetailing I tried a few times. It seemed to use a lot of product and the people around here don’t pay much! I’m at $15 a ft for open bow. $20-25 for Cuddy cabin I am high on the price range around here
In my opinion, if you want to detail about the correct way, you at least will need two of the three. You can live with just the rotary buffer, and a force rotation polisher. The buffer will remove the oxidation, and the horse rotation will polish the surface to a glass-like beautiful finish.
I’ve been detailing for 2 years. Only time I would use a generator is when there’s absolutely no power available. (Storage buildings, boat yards, etc.)
What if I use shine supply Cherry 🍒 for the last step ? I feel like I got the wrong product for the last step. I’m in mobile AL on the gulf coast salt water !!
Similar, however I wouldn’t recommend going as heavy… RV gelcoat isn’t as thick. I’d suggest just starting with chop top and a yellow pad, and go from there
I didn’t see the link for the adapter for the double sided wool pad to use on the Makita. Can you update your links or just reply to this comment if I missed it? Thanks
why the switch up from rotary polisher with yellow wool and chop top, than da with orange pad with chop top, and finish with da with white foam and jescar? just wondering since that seemed to be your go to.
That is my system on full restores , some customers don’t have the budget for that much work nor are looking for perfection. We created this package for a more affordable rate 💯
Wouldn’t buffing, polishing, and waxing the hull take ages when splitting the boat up into 2-3 foot sections since you have to wait 30 minutes for the wax to soak into the boat? Is there a more efficient way to do this? I was thinking you maybe just buff and polish the full half of the hull, then apply the wax at the end, let it dry, and then wipe it all off. Would that be a good way to go about doing this? P.S. I wouldn’t be using the same polish as you, so I wouldn’t be waiting for that to set in (unless you always let the polish soak in) And one more thing. If I am using foam pads for the polish and microfiber pads for the wax, how would I go about cleaning these pads? I would assume the pad spur would be too rough for them, but maybe not.
One more thing. Sorry for asking so many questions, I am just getting started on boat detailing with some friends. If I only would like to buy one buffer (the makita 9237), is it okay if I also use it for polishing and waxing. I was wondering since I noticed you switched to a different buffer for polishing and waxing.
If you’re going to use one machine, make sure it’s the Makita rotary buffer, not the orbital. At least you were able to cut with the rotary, and do all the other steps.
When I say split up in sections, just work in 2 x 2 areas to make sure you control the quality. If you’re running down the entire side of a hall willy-nilly, it’s very easy to not pay attention a certain certain spots you missed.
No, you can only cut oxidation with a rotary buffer. The DA polisher does not have enough power to cut through oxidation. It is just meant for light polishing, and the application of polymer sealant, and/or wax.
Great video been waiting for a new one. Question how would you tackle the water line stains for a boat that’s been sitting for 4 years? There’s videos of people using toilet cleaner but I want a professional opinion.
Rust Aid or Muriatic Acid works wonders on scum lines. Rust Aid has Hydrofluoric acid and Oxalic acid in it and Muriatic acid has Hydrochloric acid in it. I tend to use Rust Aid more. Drake has also said that Shine Supply’s Smooth Move will remove scum lines as well. I have a gallon of smooth move but haven’t tried it on a scum line yet. He also said that Smooth Move is safer on gelcoat.
@dean7416 thank you for your suggestion I’ll order one for the acid products along with smooth move and compare the results because I tried using chop top but it didn’t remove any layer.
Can you use a wool buffing pad that can be found on amazon on marine applications when it’s advertised as automotive? I guess my question is are there pads meant specifically to be used on boats?
I personally would not buy any specifically automotive branded products. I use all country and buff and shine pads, but they can be used for both and our advertised as both. Personally, I wouldn’t get them off of Amazon because they are probably not good quality. Either country or buff and shine pads.
If you use a rotary for the whole thing, you’ll have Swall marked throughout the entire process. By switching to a DA halfway through the system, helps remove swirl marks, and create more of a glass like finish. A DA is not strong enough to conquer, heavy oxidation, but it’s plenty strong enough to polish, and apply sealant to gelcoat
Sounds like a hack job. If a boat has underlying oxidation that Jescar might last you a week. If you cut and polish then seal you’re going to get around 5 months.
When dabbing the compound on before buffing do 1 extra dab to mark your start/stop for the next section (2’). Leave that dab there as the start when you shuffle over. I mostly try to use a feature on the boat like a cleat or porthole or stanchion, etc. ❤ 🛥️
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It’s good to know you are adopting a sort of “good - better - best” system for your packages, as many other boat detailers seem to be doing lately. All my fundamental knowledge came from your videos and courses so I’ve been offering only one package (the 3 step full blown restoration). But I’ve noticed as you mentioned in another comment that not everyone wants or can afford a flawless finish. I think I may need to re-assess my packages.
This is good! I need to make a video on this topic! 💯
@@DrakesDetailing That would be awesome, I think it would help a lot of people!
Hey Drake! Love your videos and I thank you a lot for what you have thought me through your videos since you started. Quick tip I learned working in PR, at 14:30 before you bump up the speed, clean/fluff your pad with your spur(no need to add polish). It will drastically reduce the vibration and cut smoother. God Bless
Agreed ! 💯
I washed, buffed and washed my 99 Malibu Response today. Tomorrow will be polishing with a DA. Thanks for all the info, would not have attempted without your videos. Shoulders are killing me because the highest vertical section I could do was maybe 16”. Ski boats suck to do. 😂
Thanks for watching! good luck!
Drake, you are fucking amazing at what you do. Truly the best of the best. I have learned so much from watching your content. I implemented your techniques in my boat detailing business and its now thriving more than ever. Much love from Norway, keep doing what your doing!
Heck yea! This comment just made my day! Thank you for watching and keep killin it 🤘
@@DrakesDetailing Likewise brother!
It would be interesting to see your technique on a boat that’s been painted, I really enjoy your videos, thanks Drake 👍😁
Anytime! I will try to do a video about that sometime in the future 😎🔥
Started watching your videos awhile ago while being laid up here at the VA hospital and now I'm getting out and ready to try them on my Ranger bass boat after getting home. Thanks for the informative info and have already got the Makita rotary and just need the waxer.
Awesome! Glad I could help! I hope everything is OK, and that you feel better! 💯😎
Just reading the comments answered so many questions I had. Nice!
A few more, if I may.
1 - When using your Flex 4301, do you use the 4-3/8” adapter plate and 5.5” pads?
2 - My boat deck and gunnels have a rough finish, like a Carolina Skiff, is there much that can be done to protect them and make them easier to keep clean? Maybe a brush style applicator using a polish like Jescar? Or would Starbrite deck wash and non-skid wax work better?
3 - What would you suggest to protect a Tempress style hatch cover that is made from “glass filled polypropylene “. Maybe the same method as is used for non-skid deck, or just stay with something like 303 Protectant?
m.ua-cam.com/video/ibfh8ucS1K8/v-deo.html hey bro, here’s the answer to your second question right here in this video.
I don’t use the adapter on my flax, mostly because I don’t use it anymore. I know use a Roops Millie Forced rotation polisher instead of the 3401. Finally, for the hatches, 303 fabric guard works pretty good if there is a cover on the hatch. Hope this helps!
@@DrakesDetailing Thanks!
Used DRAKE 15 at Maxshine and was discounted $20! Really enjoying your videos. I have a camper and a boat that can use some attention. I am going to give it a try based on your work on camera. Thank you!
Good stuff! Thanks so much!
Hey Drake, thanks for all of the great info you share. What is your process for polishing a black rubber rub rail? And, are you using Shine Supply Clutch for anything? Thanks!
Hey bro!
I unfortunately don’t have a great method for restoring black rub rails, however clutch would be a great start!
Awesome videos.... all of em. Giving me the confidence to do my 30 year old 25ft. I'm going with the 4 step using all the products u use. 1 question u used daddy o in this video over jescar power lock.... why? Before I place my shine supply order I'm curious why u went with daddy o and the pros/cons of both
Hey bro! Just something different- I like Shane supply products a lot so I’ll try to use them wherever I can- This will create more water beads, the jar product will create more of a water sheen off of the surface.
Great step by step. I've watched you for quite awhile and use your process for detailing my 2003 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer. I've recently used Turtle Wax 53409 Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating on my car which turned out fantastic. It says it's good for boats...what's your thoughts? Super easy to apply, would sure be a time saver if it works well!
I’m not a big fan of anything turtle wax on boats, it’s just not made to hold hold up to the harsh, marine environment. For cars, it would be fine, but in my opinion not for boats. 😉
But did you try the new 53409 Hybrid Solutions product on a boat to test that theory? I know they didn't have a great reputation back in the day, but...times change. Project Farm has rated this product better than any other, twice! Seems extremely durable and effective. Worth a test.
Could you make a detailed video about edge work and what kind of hardware it takes to get In between tight places? I just did an Rv oxidation removal and it came out good but working the small areas was a pain in the ass. Great video by the way the content just keeps getting better!
m.ua-cam.com/video/rXQgxvH1OTs/v-deo.html
m.ua-cam.com/video/xaCvzA4I1Bg/v-deo.html
These aren’t videos specifically on how to buff small areas, but they do show me doing some of that in these. However, these are more reviews more or less for these two small polishers. The is a really good tool if you were looking to detail in tight spaces.
I greatly appreciate you spending time teaching how to clean & prep, cut, wax and polish a boat in Florida. What temperatures are acceptable for this? I’m assuming too hot or cold would make the process difficult or impossible. Thank you 🙏
Hey bro! Anytime. Just make sure the temperature is not much below 40°, and the heat index doesn’t exceed 95 to 100°. Anything about that will just make it plain miserable ;)
insane vidéo Drake ! Thanks alot
Appreciate it! 😎😎😎
Hey, what is your opinion about the safety risk with the vibrations of the polish machine? I heard it can mess up your nerves in your hand over time. Was wondering if that’s a myth or not.
It’s a real thing, but I have been doing it for 10 years and have no issues 💯
30 years here and no physical issues..mental however is another thing..
@@JayDubberlol vibez
Drake, thanks for these videos, they’re great.
For Step 1, if I don’t have a rotary polisher, can I use a DAP? and if yes, what pad should I use? TIA.
Unfortunately it’s almost impossible to do step home with a DA polisher. The compound needs to be worked in really good and hard by rotary buffer, the DA is just not powerful enough to cut through heavy oxidation.
However, for the rest of the steps, you could probably get away with DA if that’s what the budget allows 😎
@@DrakesDetailingthanks for the guidance, I was trying to avoid getting one more tool but it’s a boat so I figure will be ordering one. I’ll use your link, thanks!
Definitely going to try this combo - this is perfect for most of my boat clients.
I didn’t think Wake up had enough bite to remove holograms from Heavy Cut, but I’ve never tried it with the rupes wool pads.
Have you found any uses for the Rupes Blue course wool pad?
Super helpful video 💪
I will tell you it will not perfectly removal all swirls… but it will get about 75 percentage of them out with used with the Rupes yellow wool.
I do tell my customers this and I have yet to have one customer not be ok with it for the price break
@@DrakesDetailing very cool! 🤘🏼
Great video brother! I was lost till I found this video, keep up the good work! I'm going to use this process on my 22 Sea Hunt after watching this. The shine supply site has Daddy-O paint sealant and Cherry Ceramic Wax can I use either for step 3? Your link for the wax goes to a different product on Amazon, not sure which I should be using. Thank!!
Hey bro! Those are good, just car power lock is a very good polymer sealant as well. If you want to go to ceramic route, shine supplies bead lock is very good as well.
@@DrakesDetailing I ordered all my products using your code, plan on doing heavy cut, chop top, wake up then Daddy-O using all your recommended pads. I see in your other videos you do a dawn wash before wax, should I do a dawn soap wash after the medium cut or should I do the dawn wash after the wakeup?
So informative. Do you always start with Heavy Cut polish? Is there one machine a DIY boater can use for both polishing and waxing?
Hey bro! It all depends on what the condition of the gel coat is. In this case, there was some oxidation that needed to be taken care of with the initial step because the customer wanted his boat to look good for the season. In my opinion, there’s really no one size fits all machine. But if there was a boatowner, that was going to have one, I’d recommend the forced rotation polisher. It has a little bit of cutting, and you can polish and wax with it as well.
Regarding that heavy cut pad, what is the size adapter you used? I can't find anywhere what size the pad needs. Thanks...
shinesupply.com/products/double-side-wool-pad-adapter?_pos=1&_sid=c5ab6f04a&_ss=r
Here they are ;)
I’m buffing above the toe rail on my dads 34’ Chris craft Catalina I’m finding myself fighting with the cord when working in tight areas would recommend a cordless buffer in this situation thanks again
In my opinion, a cordless buffer will never have the cutting power needed for what you were doing, my suggestion is to tie the cord somewhere out-of-the-way where it’s not going to be falling in the way of the spindle.
Hi Drake, love your videos. What makes you decide on what you're using. For example; I notice that on some videos you use Chop-Top religiously after the heavy cut, and some you skip and go into the wake-up. Whats the thought process there? Thank you in advance and many blessings!
Hey bro! It all boils down to every single gelcoat being different. Sometimes wake-up is enough to remove the swirls if we use the right pad, and others we need to throw another step into it to pull more imperfections out.
It also depends on what the customer is paying for. To save them some money, sometimes we go straight to wake up to eliminate another step in the process to keep costs down.
@@DrakesDetailing Amazing explanation, making the price negotiable can make the difference of closing a deal or not when a client cant afford a upsale; makes sense! thank you for your time.
Daddy o is awesome! Works great on gel coat or paint
That’s right! 💯
Did you use a non forced rotation Da because the boat was in pretty good shape? Would you still use a forced rotation if the boast needed more polishing. I was looking to pick up a machine in addition to a rotary and was wondering what I should get? Thank you for all your videos I've learned a lot.
Hey bro!
In this particular situation, I didn’t feel it was necessary given the products I was using. However, every gel code is completely different. If you were looking to add another machine, in addition to your rotary, I would personally vote the forced rotation.
Any reason why you used the yellow wool for the Wakeup in this video compared to using orange CCS in previous videos, are there situations where each one works better, or do you just prefer the wool now? Just ordering supplies to go over my boat and wondering if I should have both? Thanks for the great videos, as a boat owner I have learnt a lot from them!
Hey bro! Just a different way. it eliminates a step, so you can even make it a little bit cheaper for your customer this way, and to be honest, some different processes just work better for different gelcoat situations than others.
After the heavy cut. When do you use Chop top vs Wake Up. Im about to do my boat this week. In other videos you used chop top. Then jescar. Then another protectant
Thanks for the question! I am going to make a video on this to explain further 💯
If you want a quick shine, do what I did in this video.
If you want a flawless finish I would do heavy cut white wool rotary, chop top yellow wool rotary, wake up orange foam da, Jescar or daddy o for your wax.
Hey brother. How do you clean the yellow Rupes pad? Just like the white wool or you washing and spinning them? Great video.
, Yes, you can run a pad spur through it or wash it with water and let it dry.
Am installing van roof vent on fiber glass extended high top. The goal is to thoroughly clean for maximum adhesion of the vent sealant Butyl tape.
What do you recommend for maximum cleaning that won't damage gel coat?
Would plain ol alcohol be just as good?
You can use acetone, alcohol, or any heavy duty cleaner that has a degreasing agent in it will do. 👍🏻
great job explaining, excellent video
Glad you liked it!
Hey boss learned a lot from videos. But curious if you have any videos i didn’t missed on detailing or maintaining black powder coated t tops?
Hey bro! You didn’t miss anything, I don’t have a video specifically for that. But if if I ever have one to do, I will definitely keep it on the list to make a video for it!😎
@@DrakesDetailing well then I guess you’re welcome on giving you an idea for a new video🤣 the black is a pain to keep looking good though so I’ll be waiting for the video lol
This question is for my personal boat. I did a three step cut/polish/wax on some old videos you had back in 21 using different products. I've put Jescar only on in 22 and it didn't get out last season (boat has been covered). I switched to shine supply for my cars and wanted to redo a buff/polish/wax process on my boat. Would adding a fourth step using chop top on a yellow wool pad be over kill? Also, do you have thoughts on spider cracks in the fiber glass? Grid them out and try to repair them, or is it just wear and tear on older boats. Its an 97 older BW.
Thanks for the question!
If you want todo chop top you’ll want todo that as step 2. So it would do heavy cut, chop top, wake up then wax. That’s my usually system when I am going after a flawless finish
Have you ever tried microfiber pads ? I'm curious because I will have to do a 2 steps gelcoat correction on a boat, and it's my first time. I only have experience with cars. From my experience with cars, microfiber cutting pads tend to cut and finish very well even with a cutting paste. Thank you
I used to use microfiber pads all the time to apply my jar, polymer sealant. they work wonderfully! However, I know some people are a fan of using leper light cutting, I am not a huge fan of using them for that purpose. I just don’t find they work that well. I still like them for applying sealant and have nothing against them.
I have a blue winnebago camper that is badly oxidized but I only have a forced rotation polisher. What pads would you use to remove the oxidation and what products.
If you have a force rotation, polisher, I would use the lake country, gray force, rotation pad and chop top by shine supply.
Any tips or tools around emblems and rub rail? Is it worth taking the rub rail off?
You never want to take a rub-rail off, they are a pain to put back on, and that is a lot of liability on you if you are a detailer that I would not risk.
maxshineusa.com/product/cordless-dual-action-polisher/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAACfS6HFN3d0tKgcPwJXsjhfJ49MMy&gclid=CjwKCAjw2Je1BhAgEiwAp3KY75tJ7v0sr_pnSZo0WT-61dyP5_t4eWzCPzJ_lQaxauGx3sZKll6KNRoCdQwQAvD_BwE
Maxshine makes a great mini polisher that is great for those hard to reach areas!
Use my discount code DRAKE15 at checkout! 😎
Nice video, just bought the 3D one today for my camping trailer made with gelcoat, can you help me please? After I apply the compound my surface was very good looking so I decide to wax it with cleaner wax, the surface was pretty nice too with the wax. Once the sun appear I can see some haze underneet the wax kind of a window that as been not wash good. Why do you think it his appenning ? Thanks for your help.
Hi Steve, you probably left some cleaner wax on the camper and the sun hit it. It probably just dried on there. You can try to polish it out or scrub it out.
@@DrakesDetailing Thanks you were right I had cleaner wax stick to my walls, I guess was to warm outside or cleaner wax doesn't work after compound, maybe because the surface is too clean.....
Drake isn't it necessary to wash after polishing and before waxing? I thought that was a needed step to get rid of any residuals in the compound so that the surface is optimized for the wax/sealant to bond to? If so, is Dawn best for that? Thanks for these videos man. I'm learning how to take care of my center console myself because of the knowledge you share here.
Hey bro, after the chop top step, you can use Don Was or alcohol wipe to remove the contaminants, however, after wake up, you do not want to wash it off with a degreaser. Wake up has a bonding agent in it that helps the sealant step afterwards to bond to it better.
Hey seen multiple of your videos. My question to you is when you are washing, polishing and waxing. Are you doing this in the shade? Or doing each side with the sun in the opposite direction?
I do it in all sorts of conditions, the only time you really can’t do it is when it is pouring rain. Otherwise you can do it in the direct sunlight, and shade. if you’re doing it in the shade, just try to make sure it’s not below 40°, and if you’re doing it in the direct sun, not hotter than 95 to 100° if possible. Also, if you’re buffing in the direct sunlight and applying sealant and coatings, they can tend to dry a lot faster, and you will need to be mindful of your timeliness and removing the product.
Awesome video Drake!!
Question man I’ve been doing it awhile but still haven’t learned how to handle customers who have a small budget and are ok with it not being mirror finished. For instance I have a 24’ Sea Chaser I’m doing now that has enough oxidation to sand, but the customer doesn’t want to spend that much right now so I have just cut with Level R, Elevate and Sealed. But I know that it’s not the end results I like or want and it drives me insane. They’re happy but I’m not if that makes sense 😂 how do you handle these situations? The ones who “just want some wax” or “a little shine”?
Give the customer what he wants brother, This stuff drives me crazy as well because I want to shoot for perfection... But sometimes we want something the boat owner doesn't even want or need. That's why we came up with the buff and shine package for this exact scenario.
@@DrakesDetailing agreed!! I appreciate the feedback. Love the content man keep it up
Great Video! Could I use chop top as a substitute for the first step heavy cut?
Yes, but only on lightly oxidized boats. Chop top isn’t as aggressive as heavy cut and won’t cut as much
In the past you normally would use a white ccs pad on a griots to pull out holograms does the 21 mm with the orange pad seem to work better
No rhyme or reason, just different gel coats, and different techniques. At the end of the day, both work just fine.😎
been watching alot of your videos and just curious why you skipped the chop top step after the compound and used wake up for step 2? Ive been building the confidence to do my own boat by watching alot of your videos but now im confused lol.. my rig is white with a blue stripe and has heavy oxidation any info would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks
Hey bro! This is just a different way of doing it, I still do it the other way, and will not stop doing it that way, but this is just a different way to do it. Also, for some gel coats, different processes, work differently. For a gel coat, that’s not too bad badly oxidized, this is a perfect step because you don’t do too much heavy buffing, but it’s still pretty oxidized just one step of heavy buffing, followed by polishing and sealing.
However, if your boat is heavily oxidized, then I would stick with my first method of heavy cut, chop chop, then wake up.
Thanks for the info just ordered some pads chop top and your code worked great saved some cash 💪great content
Drake, in many of your other videos after you heavy cut or chop top, you wash the boat again to get rid of the oils in the compound before applying wake up or jescar. Don’t we need to wash between compound/polish?
Hi Dan, no, there’s no need to wash between the oil and polish that. Just before you seal. 😎👍🏻
I have vinyl graphics on my Baja 277 and the gel coat is in need of a good buffing polish and waxing! Will the abrasive nature of the cut and polish be ok on the vinyl?
Yes, it will be fine, and it will actually help bring some life back to the graphics. However***. You can potentially burn through them, I would only use about half the pressure on the graphics that you would use on the gelcoat
@@DrakesDetailing OK, great! Thanks for the info!
Is there any problem using beadlock ceramic coating after the wake-up instead of Daddy-O.
Nope, ceramic sits on wake up perfectly 💯
If my boat is waxed yearly and cleaned (properly) every use, can I just use a microfiber pad on my M8 V2 and some type of polish/cleaner? Or a sealant?
Absolutely! It boat, clean and protected every couple months versus letting it go a year or two, then needing to compound polish and start from the beginning again.
I apply my Jescar sealant by hand! I was never able to find a pad that applied the Jescar properly. I use a red diamond cut pad on my max da to remove my Jescar after 30 minutes. I follow it up with the Jescar detailing spray
That’s definitely not a wrong way to do it, however, I still like doing it with the black foam pad. Give it a try, it’s a lot easier. 😎
@@DrakesDetailing I tried a few times. It seemed to use a lot of product and the people around here don’t pay much! I’m at $15 a ft for open bow. $20-25 for Cuddy cabin
I am high on the price range around here
Can I buy 1 polisher? Griots, makita or max shine? If so, which one? I want to remove oxidation, buff and seal with one device.
In my opinion, if you want to detail about the correct way, you at least will need two of the three. You can live with just the rotary buffer, and a force rotation polisher. The buffer will remove the oxidation, and the horse rotation will polish the surface to a glass-like beautiful finish.
@@DrakesDetailingI use DeWalt 18cm orbital polisher and Liquid Elements DA 125mm polisher. Wool and paste is all from Scholl brand.
So when at a customers house do you run a generator, or use their electric?
I’ve been detailing for 2 years. Only time I would use a generator is when there’s absolutely no power available. (Storage buildings, boat yards, etc.)
We use their power and water 💯
Thanks for the tips I’m in the process of getting started.
What if I use shine supply Cherry 🍒 for the last step ? I feel like I got the wrong product for the last step. I’m in mobile AL on the gulf coast salt water !!
That could work! I just don’t think it would hold up as well as Jescar power-lock or Shine Supplies Beadlock ceramic coating.
How do you price out a boat detailing job, how many people in your crew
m.ua-cam.com/video/0WN0CQkEljo/v-deo.html
@DrakesDetailing thanks so much for this- automatic subscriber
Do you prefer the yellow wool on the DA rather than the yellow wool on the Rotary?
No, but if you have a boat that is looking for a more budget friendly option go with the steps I did in this video.
@@DrakesDetailingahhhh ok thanks for the response!
How much do you charge per foot for something like this as I live outside Tampa fl?
I typically charge around $25 per foot per step
Will this same process work on a RV or trailer that is gel coat and heavily oxidized ?
Similar, however I wouldn’t recommend going as heavy… RV gelcoat isn’t as thick. I’d suggest just starting with chop top and a yellow pad, and go from there
@@DrakesDetailing thanks man, I didn’t know that gelcoat wasn’t as thick on RVs. 🙏 much appreciated!!!
@@DrakesDetailing since it’s thinner on RVs, do you recommend polishing with wake up when light oxidation begins to return, instead of buffing?
Does this work on painted hulls as well or just gelcoat hulls?
It depends what kind of paint, for most paints it is the exact same process, including IMRON.
Let’s go !!
💯
What about the chop top as polish?
In some instances, it does work as a polish if your customer is looking to work with a tight budget! It finishes out very nicely.
How many pads would you use for each step on a boat that size on just the exterior?
I would plan to use two pads each for each step on an entire detail.
@@DrakesDetailing thank you
I didn’t see the link for the adapter for the double sided wool pad to use on the Makita. Can you update your links or just reply to this comment if I missed it? Thanks
Sorry about that! We did miss it! Here is the link. shinesupply.com/products/double-side-wool-pad-adapter?_pos=1&_psq=Adaptor&_ss=e&_v=1.0
TYSM! (Order placed)
why the switch up from rotary polisher with yellow wool and chop top, than da with orange pad with chop top, and finish with da with white foam and jescar? just wondering since that seemed to be your go to.
That is my system on full restores , some customers don’t have the budget for that much work nor are looking for perfection. We created this package for a more affordable rate 💯
Cool cool, just making sure something didn’t change too much
💯💯 sorry for the confusion
Wouldn’t buffing, polishing, and waxing the hull take ages when splitting the boat up into 2-3 foot sections since you have to wait 30 minutes for the wax to soak into the boat? Is there a more efficient way to do this? I was thinking you maybe just buff and polish the full half of the hull, then apply the wax at the end, let it dry, and then wipe it all off. Would that be a good way to go about doing this?
P.S. I wouldn’t be using the same polish as you, so I wouldn’t be waiting for that to set in (unless you always let the polish soak in)
And one more thing. If I am using foam pads for the polish and microfiber pads for the wax, how would I go about cleaning these pads? I would assume the pad spur would be too rough for them, but maybe not.
Also thank you so much for this video, it was extremely helpful!
One more thing. Sorry for asking so many questions, I am just getting started on boat detailing with some friends. If I only would like to buy one buffer (the makita 9237), is it okay if I also use it for polishing and waxing. I was wondering since I noticed you switched to a different buffer for polishing and waxing.
If you’re going to use one machine, make sure it’s the Makita rotary buffer, not the orbital. At least you were able to cut with the rotary, and do all the other steps.
When I say split up in sections, just work in 2 x 2 areas to make sure you control the quality. If you’re running down the entire side of a hall willy-nilly, it’s very easy to not pay attention a certain certain spots you missed.
Can you use a DA to cut
No, you can only cut oxidation with a rotary buffer. The DA polisher does not have enough power to cut through oxidation. It is just meant for light polishing, and the application of polymer sealant, and/or wax.
and how much cost for this boat ?
I believe this was around 3500
Bro, if ceramic protection is more durable, why do customers still use wax, because it is cheaper for them?
Yes exactly 💯
*or I think some people must have a bad application and / or failed to maintain and were then turned off by it
Why does the Daddy O go to a Jescar product?
Not sure what you mean by this sorry 🤘
@DrakesDetailing when I click on the link for Daddy O it takes me to a Jescar sealant product on Amazon.
Which rupes do you use?
The Millie, and I love it!
Invest in a long throw random orbital. It will eliminate all the swirl marks you left behind. Will leave a more professional appearance.
I have a long throw, I used it in this video 🤘
dont see any shine supply daddy o listed
shinesupply.com/products/daddy-o?_pos=2&_psq=Dad&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Here you bro 😎
Great video been waiting for a new one. Question how would you tackle the water line stains for a boat that’s been sitting for 4 years? There’s videos of people using toilet cleaner but I want a professional opinion.
try buffing it with wake up or Chop Top from shine supply
Rust Aid or Muriatic Acid works wonders on scum lines. Rust Aid has Hydrofluoric acid and Oxalic acid in it and Muriatic acid has Hydrochloric acid in it. I tend to use Rust Aid more. Drake has also said that Shine Supply’s Smooth Move will remove scum lines as well. I have a gallon of smooth move but haven’t tried it on a scum line yet. He also said that Smooth Move is safer on gelcoat.
@dean7416 This ☝️☝️☝️
@dean7416 thank you for your suggestion I’ll order one for the acid products along with smooth move and compare the results because I tried using chop top but it didn’t remove any layer.
Hey dean what’s your ratio when using rust aid, is it 1:10 dilution?
Hello sir, I have a new batch of polishing machines. Would you be interested in helping me test them？
What type of machines?
@@DrakesDetailing Car polisher, sir.
Can you use a wool buffing pad that can be found on amazon on marine applications when it’s advertised as automotive?
I guess my question is are there pads meant specifically to be used on boats?
I personally would not buy any specifically automotive branded products. I use all country and buff and shine pads, but they can be used for both and our advertised as both. Personally, I wouldn’t get them off of Amazon because they are probably not good quality. Either country or buff and shine pads.
🇵🇷✌🏼
🙌🙌🙌
Why go from a rotary to a DA? Why not just use a rotary for the whole thing. Also thought a DA isn’t strong enough for gelcoat.
If you use a rotary for the whole thing, you’ll have Swall marked throughout the entire process. By switching to a DA halfway through the system, helps remove swirl marks, and create more of a glass like finish. A DA is not strong enough to conquer, heavy oxidation, but it’s plenty strong enough to polish, and apply sealant to gelcoat
dawn soap, starbrite hull cleaner, jescar polish. This is too much
Sweet, maybe I should make a video on doing this and see what comes out better ?
Sounds like a hack job. If a boat has underlying oxidation that Jescar might last you a week. If you cut and polish then seal you’re going to get around 5 months.
When dabbing the compound on before buffing do 1 extra dab to mark your start/stop for the next section (2’). Leave that dab there as the start when you shuffle over. I mostly try to use a feature on the boat like a cleat or porthole or stanchion, etc. ❤ 🛥️
Good tip!