Really refreshing to see a father and son working together successfully. Critical thinking skills learned while young will propel the young man to s good life. Congratulations guys. Really good stuff 👏
Thanks for the encouraging words, Todd. If I've learned anything from the sawmill experience, it is this: My parents should have gotten me a mill when I was 10 years-old!
There is something oddly satisfying as a man to cut your trees down, mill them, then build something. Great video as I have to do the same thing on my mill. BTW, I have the exact same mill. I seem to remember a Sawing with Sandy video doing this and if I remember correctly, he rotated the log 180 degrees with the canted end through the end of the sawmill. All he had to do was level the canted part.
Thanks for watching! You are correct! Sandy does it a little bit differently by rotating the ends. I call our method "peeling the banana". Now that we have a crane in our mill shed, we might experiment a little more. Extra track would also make life easier!
@@BissellMapleFarm I’d love to hear which method is easier. I ordered extra track from Woodland Mills and am planning on permanently installing the extra track, but making the trailer mobile so I can take it to remote locations or put it back in the sawmill shed. I’ve not seen anyone post a video on that, so maybe it won’t work.
Just saw the video and want to thank you for the ingenuity you used . I also have an HM-130 and am also looking to build a shed for my mill. This is by far one heck of a great investment and lots of fun to own. An idea, get a Honda car jack for a toe board, cheap and readily available. Use the channel you have turned over to rest it on. Happy Milling .
Good video. Excellent common sense explanation. Subscribed and hope to see more. Blessings men. Praying for your safety, strength, health, wisdom and success. ☝️🙏🙌🇺🇸💪🎯
Great job. I like the jack idea. We use wood blocks too, but the jack is great for fine tuning. Our little mill, an American, has blade guides that slide in and out horizontally. These and proper blade tension, (TIGHT!) and of course a sharp blade and rpm really go a long ways towards eliminating a wavy cut. Those knots are much harder than the softwood and will definitely make a bandsaw "run". I'm about to cut some long timbers on our 16' mill for our new timber frame sugar camp.
There is an easier way...! Move the over-length Cant/Log down the bed as far as needed & Place some 4x, 5x Etc. on the bunks (Cut to Cut. Worst side UP!) to raise the uncut lower edges. If you have truly "squared-Up" the Cant. Alternatively; Take the Squared-up, over-length Cant/Log & set it aside. Place the 4" slab you cut off earlier >= 6 feet - Down-Track on the Bunks the same orientation as it was originally sawed. (Heavy end toward the beginning) Turn the Cant/Log - End-for-End and place it on top of the 4" slab (Cut to Cut. Worst side UP!) raising the uncut edges up above the bunks at the beginning of the track. Run the saw-head past the "round" to the surface of the cant where it is sawed to get the height dimension, go back to the beginning of the cant and make your four (4) cuts at that setting while on top of the slab. No jacking, math, thinking or leveling needed...!
Man, you are probably right. I'm not smart enough to grasp all of this. I need to give it to Austin or George. I am really good at making things harder than they should be!
@@BissellMapleFarm i totally agree they helped out when I had cancer scare they are awesome. I seen on there video you blessed a young man with a mower that was really awesome something you did. Great people hang together
These videos make you appreciate how much hard work goes into milling lumber. A lot harder then just going to the big box stores and picking up lumber. I wonder how much a beam like this would cost at Home Depot?
I think you are right! We also boosted the RPM's. That seemed to help. Having a sharpener and tooth-setter has made all the difference. The good news? We have gotten better since our first timber! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
@davidpatterson5728 no reason. That's the way it was facing, I guess. But I don't really want the large end hanging off the mill, now that I think about it.
I cut a 25' monster white pine on my oscar 30. It to has about a 16' work deck. If that wasn't enough challenge I want finished timber wedge shape. This log being 18" - 12" and 6" thick. I'm building a 20x20 old style log cabin man-cave garage building. The gable ends will stick out at least a couple feet so I'm going to need at least four timbers this long. I built a support of cribbing to hold up the potruding end, but have decided to build a bed extention for cutting the rest. It was in the plans anyway. I'm a timber framer who has always struggled to get long enough timbers for projects and dicking around for 8-10 hours cutting out two timbers decided it for me. Granted those two will make 50 square feet of wall but one pass cut would sure speed up the process. Some of that time mentioned was processing the rest of the lumber in the log.
Hey dad get your helper some nice gloves and knee pads. Go out and purchase the MSA 220-C 16" ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW THEY OFFER WIT LIKE 4 OR 8 RECHARGEABLE LITHIUM BATTERIES. YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME. KEPP ON!
I have been thinking the same thing. I was looking at the Dewalt Chainsaw because I have a bunch of the Dewalt batteries from tree tapping. I can absolutely see where an electric chainsawn is helpful around the mill. A blower, too. We really need to work on cleMilling. Sawdust after milling.
@@BissellMapleFarm Thanks ! UA-cam just refered me to a video about that curiosly and I'v watch YOU answering the question - really appreciated. We just got the mill and it cuts straight from now - we'll have the same challenge of cutting longer than the mill to make a beam under the same mill so this video was very instructive. Thanks !
I have a HM130max ordered and on the way.....was just noticing the wavy cuts on your beam....is that an accurate assessment? Dull blade? Pushing mill to fast?
Lots of reasons. All of the above! Ha! Truthfully, we didn't quite have everything set up perfect. We had tension too tight from an uncalibrated torque wrench. Maybe the biggest factor was the log being spruce. Knots cause blades to dive if you put and sort of pressure. Making videos and watch the mill head go across in hyper lapse, you can see the rails dip down where we did not have a solid base under the jacks.. I'm not sure if that did it - or a combination. We put an RPM meter on the engine, too. That helped us. We increased RPM's to 3800-3900 and that made the greatest difference in reducing wave. Austin keeps it at 3850 and when you have to go slower and slower to stay at 3850 - you know it is time to change the blade. That's important... because if you need to push.... the blades will dive. And finally, there are wear blocks that are supposed to be spaced a business-card-thickess away from the blade. If those aren't in the right Y axis the blade will be allowed to dive Spruce is tough to keep wave out. But that mill is a bargain. I recommend the trailer from Argyle WI. Glad we did it.
Instead of using the jack to level the round section, I typically put a 2x12 or 4x12 under the square cant so the round part isn't on a bunk, then shim the very end for stability
Yeah, Gary. It is a gift I have. I'm pretty good at letting people use my stuff and put it away dull or broken...or not at all. I have teenage boys... I took every tool and nail I could find from my Dad's shop. Bow saws.... hammers....It irritated him. But I was building 3-story forts at 11- years-old. Tearing engines apart using my dad's tools. Probably lost the 1/2" socket a bunch... But I'm glad he never dissuaded me from creating things. He didn't even gripe about dull chains...
I’m not a sawyer, but would it have worked any better to have had the small end of the log on the other end of the mill? It looked like your cuts were too big! By making smaller cuts, you could have sawn some boards from the slab’s which would have made them easier to handle!!! Too much waste! The last cut would have provided you with some 1”boards without a lot of extra work!!! Just saying!!
Correct! It sucked cutting boards out of slabs! No waste, except time. Plus we learned. As far as the small end... we found if we do that the log will tip. We ended up doing that on the next episode. Episode #63. It was hard to strap it down and move the ratchet straps... repeat. Sucked.
Yeah, man. I hate ads. I have no control over UA-cam. I actually pay UA-cam so I don't have to watch ads. It is worth it. I'm not sure why more people don't pay UA-cam the $10 to avoid ads.
I love a Family operation. I learned everything I know from my Dad. Nice Job Guys. Keep it up!🤠👍
Really refreshing to see a father and son working together successfully. Critical thinking skills learned while young will propel the young man to s good life. Congratulations guys. Really good stuff 👏
Thanks for the encouraging words, Todd. If I've learned anything from the sawmill experience, it is this: My parents should have gotten me a mill when I was 10 years-old!
Nice to see three generations working together as team to accomplish a goal . Great team work.
There is something oddly satisfying as a man to cut your trees down, mill them, then build something. Great video as I have to do the same thing on my mill. BTW, I have the exact same mill.
I seem to remember a Sawing with Sandy video doing this and if I remember correctly, he rotated the log 180 degrees with the canted end through the end of the sawmill. All he had to do was level the canted part.
Thanks for watching! You are correct! Sandy does it a little bit differently by rotating the ends. I call our method "peeling the banana". Now that we have a crane in our mill shed, we might experiment a little more. Extra track would also make life easier!
@@BissellMapleFarm I’d love to hear which method is easier. I ordered extra track from Woodland Mills and am planning on permanently installing the extra track, but making the trailer mobile so I can take it to remote locations or put it back in the sawmill shed. I’ve not seen anyone post a video on that, so maybe it won’t work.
You are a good dad. Always wondered how to cut longer lengths on the Woodlands. Thanks for sharing.
Just saw the video and want to thank you for the ingenuity you used . I also have an HM-130 and am also looking to build a shed for my mill. This is by far one heck of a great investment and lots of fun to own.
An idea, get a Honda car jack for a toe board, cheap and readily available. Use the channel you have turned over to rest it on.
Happy Milling .
Great idea! Thanks for stopping by!
Hi guys, wonderful job. Love the grab jaws for your tractor. Cheers.
Good video. Excellent common sense explanation. Subscribed and hope to see more. Blessings men. Praying for your safety, strength, health, wisdom and success. ☝️🙏🙌🇺🇸💪🎯
Thank you for watching! We hope you enjoy our shenanigans!!
Great job. I like the jack idea. We use wood blocks too, but the jack is great for fine tuning. Our little mill, an American, has blade guides that slide in and out horizontally. These and proper blade tension, (TIGHT!) and of course a sharp blade and rpm really go a long ways towards eliminating a wavy cut. Those knots are much harder than the softwood and will definitely make a bandsaw "run". I'm about to cut some long timbers on our 16' mill for our new timber frame sugar camp.
Nice! I'm jealous!
There is an easier way...!
Move the over-length Cant/Log down the bed as far as needed & Place some 4x, 5x Etc. on the bunks (Cut to Cut. Worst side UP!) to raise the uncut lower edges.
If you have truly "squared-Up" the Cant.
Alternatively; Take the Squared-up, over-length Cant/Log & set it aside.
Place the 4" slab you cut off earlier >= 6 feet - Down-Track on the Bunks the same orientation as it was originally sawed. (Heavy end toward the beginning)
Turn the Cant/Log - End-for-End and place it on top of the 4" slab (Cut to Cut. Worst side UP!) raising the uncut edges up above the bunks at the beginning of the track.
Run the saw-head past the "round" to the surface of the cant where it is sawed to get the height dimension, go back to the beginning of the cant and make your four (4) cuts at that setting while on top of the slab.
No jacking, math, thinking or leveling needed...!
Man, you are probably right. I'm not smart enough to grasp all of this. I need to give it to Austin or George. I am really good at making things harder than they should be!
Just throw it it’s getting late lol
Nice job boys. I wake up saying hurry up it’s late. Sawmill life
When i milled a log longer than the mill could cut, i took off the last bunk so i wouldnt have to back it up after the 2 first cuts. Just a note
Very nice. Lots of creative thinking on that project
It was. We were way over our heads. But we just used farmer ingenuity...
How did you find us, Bruce?
@@BissellMapleFarm SPENCER LAWN CARE
@@bruceslawncarenist9234 nice! I was hoping you'd say that! Good people! So glad we met them at the Paul Bunyan Show!
@@BissellMapleFarm i totally agree they helped out when I had cancer scare they are awesome. I seen on there video you blessed a young man with a mower that was really awesome something you did. Great people hang together
These videos make you appreciate how much hard work goes into milling lumber. A lot harder then just going to the big box stores and picking up lumber. I wonder how much a beam like this would cost at Home Depot?
1200.00 dollars. And up.
Great job
Thanks, George! I appreciate you watching!
Your blade was dull... I can see the waves in the final cut
I think you are right! We also boosted the RPM's. That seemed to help. Having a sharpener and tooth-setter has made all the difference.
The good news? We have gotten better since our first timber! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Looks like a Dan Reed saw mill set up. I recognized the trailer!
Yes it is!
Yea I noticed the woodland forestry trailer right away , my hm 126 is on one also , very happy with Dan’s setup .
Is there a specific reason why you started with the larger diameter as opposed to the smaller diameter? Maybe I missed something.
@davidpatterson5728 no reason. That's the way it was facing, I guess. But I don't really want the large end hanging off the mill, now that I think about it.
14:20 should have used the adjustment arm
I would... but it would get in the way of the camera shot 😂😂
Just slip some 4x material under the flat section and jack the other end if it needs it.
I cut a 25' monster white pine on my oscar 30. It to has about a 16' work deck. If that wasn't enough challenge I want finished timber wedge shape. This log being 18" - 12" and 6" thick. I'm building a 20x20 old style log cabin man-cave garage building. The gable ends will stick out at least a couple feet so I'm going to need at least four timbers this long. I built a support of cribbing to hold up the potruding end, but have decided to build a bed extention for cutting the rest. It was in the plans anyway. I'm a timber framer who has always struggled to get long enough timbers for projects and dicking around for 8-10 hours cutting out two timbers decided it for me. Granted those two will make 50 square feet of wall but one pass cut would sure speed up the process. Some of that time mentioned was processing the rest of the lumber in the log.
Use a star Drive screws in there like two or 34 times stronger depending on which one to buy
Hey dad get your helper some nice gloves and knee pads. Go out and purchase the MSA 220-C 16" ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW THEY OFFER WIT LIKE 4 OR 8 RECHARGEABLE LITHIUM BATTERIES.
YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME. KEPP ON!
Its a stihl msa 220-c 16 inch bar. You are gonna end up using it sooo much!!! Greatest purchase for your mill!
Perfect son.
I have been thinking the same thing. I was looking at the Dewalt Chainsaw because I have a bunch of the Dewalt batteries from tree tapping. I can absolutely see where an electric chainsawn is helpful around the mill. A blower, too. We really need to work on cleMilling. Sawdust after milling.
@@chriskourlos4407 we are raising men.
"Pitter Patter" Haha, Awesome!
Why not cut them with a smaller tree for a single rather than a massive one for two beams? Would that be any easier or faster?
@@whoblowsthere002 that's what we had. I'd say we are smarter now than we were 3 years ago.
Is this the first time using a bandsaw mill????
@bryansaunter4124 yeah, pretty much.
I have a similar mill (new) and I was wondering why is it wavy like that ?
@vikombucha A few years ago, we didn't know what caused that. We do now.
Dull blades and knotts.
@@BissellMapleFarm Thanks !
UA-cam just refered me to a video about that curiosly and I'v watch YOU answering the question - really appreciated.
We just got the mill and it cuts straight from now - we'll have the same challenge of cutting longer than the mill to make a beam under the same mill so this video was very instructive. Thanks !
I've subscribed :P
Bravo
We are back up at 1080P! Enjoy!
I have a HM130max ordered and on the way.....was just noticing the wavy cuts on your beam....is that an accurate assessment? Dull blade? Pushing mill to fast?
Lots of reasons. All of the above! Ha! Truthfully, we didn't quite have everything set up perfect. We had tension too tight from an uncalibrated torque wrench. Maybe the biggest factor was the log being spruce. Knots cause blades to dive if you put and sort of pressure. Making videos and watch the mill head go across in hyper lapse, you can see the rails dip down where we did not have a solid base under the jacks.. I'm not sure if that did it - or a combination.
We put an RPM meter on the engine, too. That helped us. We increased RPM's to 3800-3900 and that made the greatest difference in reducing wave. Austin keeps it at 3850 and when you have to go slower and slower to stay at 3850 - you know it is time to change the blade. That's important... because if you need to push.... the blades will dive.
And finally, there are wear blocks that are supposed to be spaced a business-card-thickess away from the blade. If those aren't in the right Y axis the blade will be allowed to dive
Spruce is tough to keep wave out. But that mill is a bargain. I recommend the trailer from Argyle WI. Glad we did it.
@@BissellMapleFarm thanks for the detailed answer....I will be sure to keep that in mind when I get mine...
Instead of using the jack to level the round section, I typically put a 2x12 or 4x12 under the square cant so the round part isn't on a bunk, then shim the very end for stability
That's a pretty good idea.
When my daughter was born she couldn’t say grandma so my mother-in-law became GAGA.
Amazing how it sticks around. My dad will always be Bacca... He doesn't mind.
New viewer courtesy of Spencer Lawn Care
@sara threet thanks for stopping by! I hope you enjoyed this episode! One of my faves.
Did anyone say you "cant" do that?
I cant say I've heard that one.
👍
Use a rotating laser to set it up
That's a good idea.
Pull one of your bottom supports out from your uncut end.
Good idea.
Next time dull that chain a bit more
Yeah, Gary. It is a gift I have. I'm pretty good at letting people use my stuff and put it away dull or broken...or not at all. I have teenage boys...
I took every tool and nail I could find from my Dad's shop. Bow saws.... hammers....It irritated him. But I was building 3-story forts at 11- years-old. Tearing engines apart using my dad's tools. Probably lost the 1/2" socket a bunch...
But I'm glad he never dissuaded me from creating things. He didn't even gripe about dull chains...
git yerself a cuple pieces of 1/2" pvc pipe and use it as rollers for those big ass slabs
Great idea!!!
Dropped your tape dude
I’m not a sawyer, but would it have worked any better to have had the small end of the log on the other end of the mill?
It looked like your cuts were too big! By making smaller cuts, you could have sawn some boards from the slab’s which would have made them easier to handle!!! Too much waste! The last cut would have provided you with some 1”boards without a lot of extra work!!!
Just saying!!
Correct! It sucked cutting boards out of slabs! No waste, except time. Plus we learned.
As far as the small end... we found if we do that the log will tip. We ended up doing that on the next episode. Episode #63. It was hard to strap it down and move the ratchet straps... repeat. Sucked.
Just use wood glue to attach them.
Some of that wood glue is pretty tough!
Tighten up that thumb screw.
@simionetransportinc6238 which one?
@@BissellMapleFarm Lol. I just noticed the knob vibrating loose on the blade guide/guard.
@simionetransportinc6238 we still have it! But it does need tightened pretty good to hold.
a bit too many ads:((
Yeah, man. I hate ads. I have no control over UA-cam. I actually pay UA-cam so I don't have to watch ads. It is worth it. I'm not sure why more people don't pay UA-cam the $10 to avoid ads.
@@BissellMapleFarm We don't pay because we should not have to...
Just Saying...
@@richardnewcomb9471 you don't have to have any ads. You have that right.