Festool ETS EC 150 3 or 5mm??
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- I've decided to bite the bullet and trade in my $80 Bosch sander for a new Festool ETS EC 150 sander. Is it worth it? And which one? The 3mm or the 5mm? I take you through my journey and show you why and which one.
TOC
0:00 Intro
1:15 Why Festool
1:50 Veneer Problem
2:15 3mm/5mm Comparison
4:11 Timed Veneer Test-3mm
4:56 5mm Timed Test
5:18 Rotex 150 Test
6:15 Final Decision - Навчання та стиль
![Festool ETS EC 150/5 First Impressions [video 563]](/img/n.gif)
Super helpful comparison as I’m shopping for the next sander
Thank you so much for this video! Super helpful so keep them up as I’ll be following 🙏🏽
Thank you for the information and the comparison - I am pondering single Festool sander decision right now and this helps.
They need to make one that switches 3mm to 5mm orbits!
I think there is a weight block, that in theory could be changed and a conversion could be made , since both machines are almost identical. But its just not practical.I have a 150/5 - but for finer work, just take my dts or 125 ets..
This is great. Thank you.
that was very helpful.Thank you very much for shearing your thoughts.
Thank you so much for the demo. Helped so much deciding on what to get now vs later.
This was precisely my question. I agree that time is an issue. Thanks for the video. I am getting the 5.
this video is exactly why I bought the 5 mm yesterday. Thank you very much.😅
You helped me decide on the 5mm as I mostly work with solid lumber. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have decided I am going to buy one of these sanders, for the mentioned benefits. The stroke was the deciding factor. I’m clear now which one to buy. Thank you.
This video was well done. Thanks!
This video was a huge help…especially happy to see you compare to the rotex. My impression was that the ets was simply the ros side of a rotex…clearly not.
This video helped clear things up SO much. I'm not tech savvy and I don't speak the language of tools. But I have specific needs due to my disability. I need something lightweight and it's vital that the vibration is as low as possible. I have arthritis and vibration can be excruciating for days after a long session. Sometimes it's so bad that I have to wear a brace. By cutting down the vibration, good ergonomics, and shortening the sanding time I think I can get through it with much less pain.
My decision is made. This sander will keep me up and running for much longer. It's worth the upgrade to add years to my hobby.
Thank you.
Did the same test and kept the 3mm. Like you I have the 150 rotex so figured the 3mm would be a nice compliment. In reality, either the 3 or 5mm would do great. Nice post, thank you.
Thanks very much for this info helps alot!
Thanks for doing this comparison. I own the 3 mm version and have been trying to decide if I “need” the 5 mm for more aggressive removal. The additional comparison with the Rotex was super helpful as I own one of those and have told myself I can accomplish the same aggressive sanding as the ets-ec 150/5; it appears that’s not necessarily the case. Though I sort of wish it was, as that would save me money 😂
Thanks for the video. I recently went through the same process, I also have the Rotex, i chose the 3mm. I prefer the finish and use more aggressive sandpaper if I need to remove more material. Fwiw
Great video bro, keep it rocking
Thank you very much. My primary sander has been a rotex 150, but finally adding a dedicated finish sander. I was between the 3vs5 as well. Going to go with 5mm. Thanks!
best video of festool sanders
What a great video. Thanks very much for making this. I so enjoyed this video and it was exactly what I was looking for Great testing and really well done. I have the RO90 and I'm buying a 6-in orbital and was trying to decide between the RL150 The 6-in ets,.
Really just the video I needed thanks again very much for making this video 👍
Thanks. Your video was a big help. I am going to buy the 5mm. For thin stuff, I am very happy to go hand power with a good sanding block/pad.
I own the previous brushed version, the ETS 150/5. My thought process in deciding on the 5mm over the 3mm was very similar to yours. I like that the 5mm can speed up my sanding time on most woods. If I happen to need to sand a thin veneer, I use high grits and slow down the sander speed. I am also fortunate to also own the ETS 125/3 as well as the RO 150 Rotex. Very good video!
Great video brother.
Great video thanks
Great video presentation
Very good video!
Great product. Awesome
Really good video buddy
Thank you so much for your video! I learned MUCH for this information! I think I will purchase BOTH sanders! I'm currently in the process of planning purchases for the Festool tool I will need to work this this shop. As this shop is intended to turn a profit, despite the enormous costs of tools ($6k to $7k) I've decided to just purchase the tools I need and focus on using those tools to make that money back! If I was just doing this as a hobby, then I would only purchase the 150/5.
Thanks for the video. It’s a no brainer in my opinion. The 5 can do everything the 3 can do with the correct technique. But the 5 is about a third faster and that’s invaluable. I recently purchased the 5 and had I thin veneer to sand. The first board was a practice run and I learned very fast that I needed to speed up my movement and slowed down the sander speed just a little. It worked out great. I never thought I would spend this much money on a sander but I’m honestly happy I did. Festool is so over priced but until someone can come up with the same quality in tools we will have no choice but to buy them.
Thanks for this.
In my experience, sanding can become so exhausting that the willingness to cut corners becomes high.
So if quality fine finish is possible with the 5mm, then speed is 100% the way to go.
Thanks, interesting
Thanks. It would have been interesting to talk about the grit being used and the "pattern" of each sander. You can slow down an aggressive sander as much as you want by using a finer grit paper, so to me it seems the scratch pattern is more important than the rate of material removal?
I have the 3 because I also have the RO150 for the rough jobs.
Thanks for the comparison, much appreciated. I decided on the 5mm as well. I know a lot of people say the 5mm for rougher work and the 3mm for finer work, but in actuality, both will achieve the same outcome, just faster with the 5mm, at the cost of you having to be a bit more diligent in regards to not sanding too much and going through veneers. I'll gladly accept having to be a bit more focused when sanding in exchange for less time spent sanding.
Same here. I also find it much easier to focus and stay focused throughout when the task at hand is more dynamic and demands it.
Great video, always wanted to ser the comparison. Just a small nitpick, that electric motor is actually AC even though they call it bldc (yes I know, it can get a bit confusing lol). Main point is that it is brushless.
Hi everyone,I own a Mirka orbital sander for about 16 years,the best sander I have ever used ,still working up to this day, couple of times I broke the cable, but near the machine. sad when Mirka change to the new type of machine without power box the cable of new machines lasting 3 to 6 monts.good luck wit Festool, they are good machines but to expensive for pand pepper and velcro base.
Good
You can always change your Festool sanding pad to a hard or soft one.
Thank you but still can't decide between the RO150 and The ETS 150-5 as I can afford but one even thats a stretch.
thanks for showing us the difference, i'm still considering buying a festool 3 or 5mm sander, or the mirka 2,5mm of 5mm. The 5mm of Mirka gives two sanding discs (125 & 150).
I'm a painter so I have to sand paint on wood and other materials. I already own a rotex and a dtsc400 from Festool.
Mirka is expensive but very leight weight. I've seen other painters getting a mirror finish with the Mirka 2.5mm. So tough!
Did you end up getting a Mirka? I am debating on getting one for my woodworking
If you get the 125 Festool the 150 disks will work fine on it: they both share the same motor, so you can save $100 on the 125 and buy a 150 pad. You can't go the other way though.
Thank you for this review of the usability and distinguishing characteristics of the Fezrool orbital sander. 5mm allows faster sanding, for the same price as the 3mm orbit pattern so for general and rougher material use, 5mm. 3mm for predominately fine finish work. Thanks! Armchair woodworker, boatbuilder engineer, analyst, pilot, adventurer, sailor, bicycler, designer and inventor, central Phoenix Arizona
Don, since you mention boatbuilding, which would you recommend for sanding in preparation for new paint (bottom, topsides, and decks)? 5mm I assume?
Festool is awesome, and I own many of their tools and systainers, but you should have tried Bosch's 6in ROS with vibration control (in 2012 they were $220, now $250). It's an extremely good sander which I have used since 2012. I've only owned 2 in that time and have put so many hours on them I can't even guess the total. The first I sold 5 or 6 years ago, and the second is still running strong to this day. You can sand with them for hours straight and will have no tingly feeling afterwards. They also put the 5in to shame when it comes to power and material removal.
Props to you for using crappy 5in box store orbitals for years, at least now you know what you missed out on.
P.S. I have the 5in corded Festool and its vibration is much worse than the my Bosch 6in. I can't speak to the ones you mention in this video because I've yet to use either. I have the Rotex 90 coming this week.
Now you tell me....LOL.
Can you let me know how the Rotex compared to the Bosh and Festool 3 in the vid
@@whatever_12 Great question. So as you saw in the video the Rotex took about the same as the 3mm. The Bosch 5" took 6:30, but not a totally fair comparison cuz I used a different brand of paper on the Bosch. The Festools' all used new 100G Rubin. But I had to use Diablo 100G on the Bosch (didn't have 5" Rubin). Interestingly the Diablo cuts faster than the Rubin for the first 2 minutes then loses some of its' edge. and seems to remove less material from there on. Hope this helps.
Nice video. I chose the 3 mm because I assumed it would leave smaller, less noticeable swirl marks in stain- grade material. I’d love to see a comparison video of that.
Nothing more to add ;)
You right on that!
I think the 5 is a good choice for the reasons you describe, and the capacity to still do that fine sanding while only needing to be attentive to outcome in a narrower band.
Perhaps a slightly finer grit would provide you added time via less aggressive sanding if you want it?
I thought the same
Nice and detailed review. 👍
Loved that you also compared it to the RO 150. Since the RO 150 actually was closer to the 3 mm when in random orbit mode, it would have been interesting to see the time for the RO 150 when in Rotex mode. I would assume it to be much faster than the ETS EC 150/5, but by how much?
FYI, the RO 150 specs state a 5mm sanding orbit.
While not very scientific, I’d put it at about 3-3 1/2 “much’s” faster. I have the RO and EC/3, both in 125, and feel like this is a far more versatile and time saving combo for me. But, I sometimes need to remove a lot of material and sometimes need to sand between finish coats and everything in between. No one tool will do all of that, but the RO gets shockingly close and the EC/3 does a fine job of the rest.
You could probably dial the 5mm back speed wise with delicate stuff.
You didn’t mention the sandpaper type and grits you used for your tests… I had the good fortune to happen across a used pair of the previous generation ETS 150 sanders, about 10 years ago. A little heavier and taller than the current ETS EC generation but amazingly smooth running with very minimal vibration to your hands. IF you have the budget, having both sanders is very handy. Barring project specific needs, I keep 80 or 100 grit Granet abrasive on the ETS 150/5 and 180 or 220 grit on the ETS 150/3. Sanding is a joy with the pair and I actually enjoy prepping for finishes. If properly connected to a decent dust extractor, the process is nearly dustless. However, maximum settings on the extractor is NOT ALWAY BEST. Depending on materials, you may get a better finish and smoother operation with the extractor set somewhere near its midrange. Enjoy the new sander!
I have been racking my brain for the past several weeks trying to decide to get the 150/5 or the 125/3! I guess I'm just going to have to break down and get both! I want fast stock removal but I also want a nice finish!! Lol
For TRULY FAST material removal, get the Rotex 150 and the 150/3 for fine finishing. The Rotex isn’t as easy on your arms but it can hog off material like the champ it is!
Just the information I was looking for. I already has the 3mm and ordered a 5mm, but my mistake, I actually ordered another 3mm and used it. Now, I need to sell my 3 mm and do I really need the 5mm? I guess I can debate that with myself.
Thanks for much for sharing
John from Palos Verdes
Hi Mark. Love your to-the-point video! I make simple frames for my photos, etc. I mount tempered Masonite to the back of the frame, that is slightly larger than the frame. That way I can sand down the Masonite to match up exactly with the edge of the pine frame for a clean look. Do you think that the ETS EC 5 would be a good option? (the Masonite is tough; my old Makita square vibrating sander with 60 grit took forever with a two inch test piece of Masonite. Thanks Mark!
Hmmm. If I understand your application....I think you are using the masonite as backer for the photos. So if you have an 8x10" photo + mat to frame it you might have a masonite piece that is 11x14. And on occasion the frame rabbet is not deep enough so the masonite is proud of the frame. The best tool to sand it down would be a drum sander. That would remove material consistently (and fairly fast). In essence reduce the thickness of the masonite. A regular orbital sander (like the Festools in the video) is going to take a long time and give you varying thicknesses across the backer. That said your old Makita is likely a finish sander and that process is even more extended. Another idea would be to purchase thinner backer. Something like a plywood (or other tempered hardboard) which come in a number of various thicknesses depending on manufacture. Sorry for the long winded response. Hope this helps!
@@DIYMark - Hi again, Mark. Sorry to ask you to kindly read this novel!
What I often do is buy ready made cradle box "frames" that comes with finished basswood backing from art stores. I then mount a metal photograph to the end of the frame. (This way a customer could either hang it on the wall or... set in on a desk... since the back is finished and smooth). It's a great look because the photo goes right up to the edge of the cradle box frame edge.
The problem is that the manufactured cradles boxes are often not true. They might not be exact in the size ordered
.
If the frame edge is little larger than the photo, the edges need to be trimmed down to be exactly the same size of the metal photo for the clean look. In the opposite case, if the photo is larger than the frame, the photo will stick out and I'd in trouble because I can't sand down the aluminum edge!
Therefore, it's easier to make my own "frame" or cradle box and I can make it exactly the size of the photo. I've found that cutting the backing a little larger than the size need, I can sand down the backing so that it is exactly smooth to the photo.
So I'm trying material that is light and smooth to use as the back side. I was using .05mm thin plywood from HomeDepot but since it's a ply material it often has a messy edge.
Smooth tempered Masonite would be good but, as I mentioned, it's a heavy material and it takes forever to sand the edges smooth. I might just stick to the plywood.
I think that your belt sander idea would work. I wish that I had my Dad's old planner.
BTW, my project pieces are not really frames in the conventual sense...they are more of a.
If you want to see what the end result looks like, go to my IG which is @homsyphoto Go down to Row 29, Maui ocean photo.
Keep up the good work on your IG account!! - Joe Homsy (El Dorado Hills, CA)
Nice video comparison! I recently received my new ETS EC 125/3 (bought an upgrade 6" pad off Amazon) and then started finding multiple reviews where most everyone was recommending the ETS EC 150/5 over the 125/3 (how did I not find these reviews when I was shopping earlier?). At any rate, now I am trying to figure out if I should go ahead and purchase the 150/5 as a compliment to my 125...seriously doubt if prices will get any cheaper.
The 125 is better because you can get the 150 pad for it but you cant change the 150 to a 125 pad.
I have the 125 because I can sand smaller spaces with it and then when I need to stand bigger areas I can switch to a 150 pad
@@JeDxDeVu Thanks. I already have the set-up you mentioned but have also seen some videos where the go-to for some is the 150 with the 5 mm stroke so, I suppose the more accurate question to ask might be if I already have a 3 mm stroke (regardless of pad size) is it worth adding the 5 mm to my workforce.
What did you decide?
@@stefanbuscaylet I ended up buying the 150/5 but still up in the air as to if I should keep or sell my 125/3 (still has not been used).
@@steinbierz i fretted for a couple days now and ultimately decided to keep my 125/3. Seems festool has decided that /3 is what the “US” market prefers as well as the 125mm vs the 150mm. Now time to get to work with mine. I have laundry cabinets that need final sanding this weekend! Thanks for the reply.
Hi, DIYMark! What about Dualtron 3 ?
Do you think upgrading to a 6 inch pad is a noticeable difference as well?
We use palm sanders with 80 grit to remove edger marks sanding hardwood floors. Would 80gr still blend or will the larger 5mm swirls be visible?
my first Festool sander was the ETS EC 125/3 because the 125 can fit the 150 pads but the 150 cant fit the 125 pads
Like so many others I have been chewing the crud on this exact issue for a couple of weeks now :) 3mm or 5mm. I also already have the Rotex 150 and was surprised to see that it performed closer to the 3mm ETS then the 5mm (time/agression-wise)
Great video but I am still on the fence LOL although my instincts are telling me to go with the 3mm as I don't really need to save time so much as a hobbyist and I feel that will be better as a finishing sander on ply and MDF....
BTW do you still think you made the right choice 2 years on?
Thanks for the review and very informative. If you had to choose between 3 and 5 again, which one would you say is better for sanding for prime, paint and top coat?
Hmmm. Generally I don't use a RO sander between paint coats. In my experience it takes off too much material when the paint is still soft. But for prep prior to prime I would stick with my 5mm choice. It's been great.
Good comparison. For the concern on plywood, jus sand with a higher grit. For example.. If you would normal start with 150 grit on plywood.. Start with 180. Since it cuts faster your get a smoother finish and still in less time than jumping grits
So why not the Mirka or the SurfPrep
I guess I’m not the only one struggling w/ the same decision. Your video was very (!) helpful in aiding my decision. I’ll also go w/ the “5” for the same reason you did: faster production time. Now if I could only also afford a Rotex....
Hi,
Is Sanding Stroke value important in epoxy?
Should I buy Festool Ro 150 (5mm) or Ro125 (3.60mm) ?
Are Festool Ro150 and Ro125 Base Sanding Pads Mutually Compatible? Can we attach 125 grit sanding pad to Ro150?
I have a question about the sandpaper. Are you guys using festool sandpaper? do you have to? and how does it compare to others as I am using 3M Cubitron and it was a game changer on my Bosch sander ( 5")
I have the ETS125, Rotex 90 and Rotex 150. I have planned on getting the ETS EC150/3 for some time. I do a mix or real wood and plywood projects and figure the Rotex 150 (and 90) will serve me well for removal and the ETS EC150/3 would be best for finish and plywood.
You did test both the 3 and the 5mm with the same sanding pad, right? Right?
When sanding veneer can you adjust the variable speed on the sander if you're working with a really thin piece? I'd like to get one of these sanders and have been stuck on the same thing and this demonstration was really helpful. I mostly build things with solid wood and hand sand the finishes in between coats so not sure if I need the 3mm or not. Did you actually finish a few pieces and compare the two that way as well?
I was able to get the same final results with both sanders. I did wipe on poly after running through the grits (120, 180, 220) and could not tell the difference between 3 or 5mm.
@@DIYMark Thanks for the reply! With some of the oil finishes I use I sand up to a pretty high grit so I have been back and forth. The faster sanding is really appealing though as well.
Just liked and subscribed. What grit did you use for your test?
All sanders were equipped with new disc of 100 grit Rubin at the start of the timed test. Thanks for support!!
@@DIYMarkhave you used Granat instead of Rubin? Be interested to hear if there’s any difference, I find that sometimes the sander can feel likes it’s wanting to pull itself where it wants to go, wondering if that’s to do with the paper?
Nice video. I wonder when you lower the speed, does 5mm become better at a finer job?
I've found that lowering the speed makes it less aggressive. Only grit change produces a finer swirl.
Curious as to your thoughts about keeping the 5 now. I sand solid wood more than plywood. I really only want to buy one sander. My gut says less aggressive stroke would produce a better sanding surface. However, faster material removal gets the project along quicker. Have you had an occasion when you thought the 3 would have been better or are you more often than not affirming your decision to keep the 5? Thanks.
I totally understand your dilemma. I went through the same thought process. I found that both the 3mm and 5 gave the same exact finish results. As long as you progress through the grits...not trying to jump from say 100 to 220 the end result is the same. You do need to slow the 5 down on veneers or it will cut too fast and potentially damage them sooner as I illustrated in the video. But for me the benefit of shortening sanding on solid material out weighed the risk on veneers. Still happy with my choice.
@@DIYMark thank you for the reply. Do you find yourself using the Rotex much at all now? And if you do use it when is it better than the 150/5? I must admit my only experience with sanders are Dewalt and a Bosh plan sander. I am getting more into solid woods and need glue lines to disappear. I have been blessed to be able to afford a top of the line sander but I with my time constraints and other financial priorities it seems practical to only get one do-it-all sander. I really appreciate your insight.
@@rw7532 So I never used the Rotex too much. It really is a specialty sander in my mind. It's a beast....best for quick removal. It works so well at things like paint removal on siding. But for furniture/cabinets just too much of a handful. I would use my RO Bosch, before I got the Fez.
How do you like your Rikon band saw? What model is it?
No Rikon bandsaw (delta/laguna). I have their drill press. I did a review on it some time ago...have been very happy with it. ua-cam.com/video/0kZrf-d1cf8/v-deo.htmlsi=CIyQuxBfOe6xnx31
How did the rotex take so long?? I have that one and put a dimple in my first project almost instantly! What grit was that?
the test was with a new piece of 100 grit Rubin on each sander. The Rotex was run in RO mode to match the ETS sanders. I was surprised as well. Cuz as you know if you run the Rotex in rotary mode it will cut like an angle grinder.
It's just my own view but I believe the paper you use matters more/as much as what sanding machine you use. I find 80% of paper on the market is junk & cuts badly after a very short time. Buying good paper is a minefield - "Top Brand" papers vary by grade, one grade will be good, another grade will be rubbish - I.E you get a pack of 240 grit & it works great, but their 40 grit in the same range is garbage. Price isn't always an indicator of quality either.
The same applies to masking tape - just as another example - my local stockist has several brands on the shelves - the "Premium" stuff isn't nearly as good as a supposedly "lesser" brand tape they stock..The premium brand stuff is a disaster-zone tbh - it adheres badly, when it does stick it becomes a battle to remove - it's all "Name" & no game.
When it comes to sanders, I run pretty much "Junk" grade machines if going on price, but with really good paper, they work brilliantly - chuck rubbish paper onto a "Premium" machine & I reckon it will sand badly - presumably with good paper they'd be fantastic, but I have never tried either scenario as I just run "garbage" sanders & bin them when (if) they die, go buy another.
The paper used is the key thing - good paper makes a bad sander look good, bad paper makes every sander look bad. I have no go-to brand of paper for every grit but I do have go-to brands for each grade of paper we use. With really good paper, you're sanding for such short periods as they cut well, vibration & harshness in the machine stops really mattering. With bad paper, you could slap it onto the plate of a Rolls-Royce sanding machine & it would still break your heart.
If 3M weren't such dopes at allocating dealer status to outlets, my local guys would stock 3M paper & I'd only use 3M papers as they rock - but they are so they don't so I don't - much like Akzo Nobel/Dulux are so far up their own backsides in allocating "Dealership" status to anyone that it makes their paints unobtainable for many - me included. If they pulled their heads out of the clouds & appointed more dealers, I'd use no other brand of paint - but they don't so I can't.
Festool stuff is good gear - I did a lot of work for Festool here when they were setting up their operation, their System is gigantically impressive - but in their wisdom they assigned the local "dealership" to one of the greatest bell-ends you'd ever stumble across - presumably he ticked all their boxes - which was enough to make me vow never to buy any of their stuff for myself. A lot of big-brands could do a lot better if they made their products more widely accessible. I have zero desire to jump hoops for the privilege of being allowed buy workshop stuff - I'm looking at you 3M & you Akzo Noble & you, Festool...
Hello Mark, I got a question regarding your Jet planer/jointer review. You mentioned that you've removed the guard on it. If you still have it, would you be up to selling the guard assembly?
I noticed you also have the Rotes sander as well. Do you think it worth getting the Rotex 150 and the ETS 150?
The Rotex is a beast. It is the polar opposite of the ETS EC. It vibrates, is super loud, and it is a handful. But in rotary mode it removes material so well. If you have a big job (like removing paint from siding) it is the go to tool.
Didn't wanna pay 600 euro cos of high price bought Bosch get 75 150 400 euro payed 1 week later start to using every time I had badly tingling hands, numb fingers i had pain weird feeling hands so disappointed with Bosch sold it someone. So I am thinking what should I buy? Festool ets ce 150 will do all i need or not. Regarding you reviews ets ce 150 is the best. But 600 euro just sanding machine.
Hands up who would turn the speed down on the 5mm to make it take twice as long....
Bro what RPM were you running on the 5mm and 3mm
What rpm was your rotext 150 using when you performed the test
Love the content big brother ❤