My Beetle GSR is having such issues after only 12000miles and 6 years old. I found this most informative however not sure if I am brave enough to fix it myself. Cheers!
Excellent !! Thank you :) and please never hide behind your ability to speak English, you speak better than most and you were absolutely crystal clear ! ( and funny)
Great vid thanks. Seems we protect against the fools in manufacturing making these things too much. By error proofing things like this so it can’t be fitted the wrong way around with simple tools such as square figment one end and triangular the other. Narrow minded design, quality comes last in todays society, it’s all about cost and profit. 👍🏼
"Focus you God dammed shit!" That's so German. So am I, probably why I laughed so hard. Seriously, VW is dropping the ball on so many issues. So frustrating, I really like my CC.
thanks for the video , i was looking for that king of complete explanation since many month , i 'm in the same situation with my octavia 1,8 tsi ( P2015..) and replacing the part with a new one which risks malfunctioning in the same way in some time is disapointing.
But he missed most important problem. The problem is 1kleineMax1 himself: he did NOT show us how this contraption (control valve) should operate normally. For example, if you press accelerator pedal down, what should happen at high RPM's ? If I release accelerator pedal, what should happen (at idle)? This is important, because I see little or no action in my vehicle, but all the valves, all the sensors, control diaphragm moves well, test well. Adaptation Procedure via Scan Tool results in "Success", I can see the 0% and 99% on Scanner during Adaptation. I marked the Control Valve's STEM with white marks: maximum position, minimum position. I press accelerator, I see no movement. So, all these successful tests of manifold itself mean nothing. I must know what must happen with MAXIMUM and MINIMUM marks and how and when.
I had a loose vacuum line that made this code. After connecting it the engine light went away. Nice. Also found out i have the "revised " version of this intake . nice. This video did help me track down my problem.
@@andrewthompson6866 if you watch the video he explains the main differences between the two housings .. Version one is basically a all-in-one type of deal..version two is very similar but has some features that make it more dependable .. When you lift your hood and look onto the intake manifold you should be able to see the "actuator " .. If its a version two you can see the spine that goes from the actuator to the area of the manifold that does this flap work..
My daughter has a 2010 golf 2.0 tdi and has same problem u will start removing the parts tomorrow, will this issue make the engine start running erratic as well as thought its going to cut out
I have an Audi B8 with the very same "triangle" problem. The shop said that the entire mainfold has to be changed. It costs ~600€, which seems too much for a small worn plastic part. Isn't there a way to change just this part instead of the entire mainfold, or glue it to the shaft? The only problem is that if I remove the mainfold I will have to change the caskets, which I suppose cannot be re-used ?
You can not buy the peaces sepreatly, as far as i know. I could be possible to glue in the actuater/triangle peace but you have to use a two components glue that is able too fill gabs, also the possition of the flap while glueing ist very critical. The intake should not cost 600€, more like 150€ to 300€ depending on where you buy it. The intake in my video has the partnumber 06J-133-201-BH, updated nummber with different design then in the video! When removing/changing the intake you need the intake gasket, throttlebody gasket, 4 sets of injector gaskets and a special tool to install them.
1kleineMax1 Thanks, I do not know why the dealer is asking so much for it here. I would probably try to either import it, or glue it somehow. Thanks for the part number.
NP! If you have options, ask an other dealer and maybe also for a partnumber for your car, just to bee safe that the numbers match and VW-dealers allways get the newest revision. Also you need a breather tube that plugs into the new style vacum-solenoid. Humblemechanic shows the metal-plug and says that you should leave it open. But thats not true! there was a revision of the solenoid and if you bought it you got the breather tube too, i dont know if it will come with the new style intake which includes the new solenoid. (Number for new solenoid is 06H-906-283-B, dont have a number for the tube) PS: By Mindfull with the glue if you try it. Cause too much will glue the flabs to the housing when it seeps out!
I’ve replaced this part twice on my 09 gti. It is now sitting in my driveway because it needs a third one. Total plastic garbage. I will never buy another vw
Did you buy the newest one? Direct from VW? The part that i show in the video is also from a 2009 GTI. We replaced it in 2016, and it is still wokring fine, so 6 years ... is still ok. The current partnumber is: 06J133201BH
@@reyjustimbaste1058 I would advise you to use this guide: ua-cam.com/video/c7c35MJq5e0/v-deo.html Look for the seals of the injectors and the installtion tool for the teflonseal at the tip. Cause at least one injector will come out and then is best to change this seal. This job is not something you can just do you need to be well prepared and teke your time.
I have a 2010 GTI with 104,000 miles. Driving this weekend on the Pennsylvania Turnpike the engine light came on and the code, read from Autozone, is P2015 for Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range Bank 1. Car seems to be running okay. VIN is: WVWEV7AJ6AW220359. Would replacing the Intake Manifold be covered under the extended warranty for this part at the VW dealer? Thank you!
I know this is old, but i'm having a go at actually fixing the old one.(just to prove i can do it) thanks to your video i have an idea on removing the flaps before i did it myself. also confirmed exactly what i had discovered. BTW I loved your vid, put a smile on my face - yar triangles are goodt it will be fine.
Report back if you were able to fix it! For my friend it was not an option, he did want the problem to comeback soon. Also we didnt found any information about people successfully fixing it.
OK i did the repair, found the exact same issues shown here. what i discovered was at the armature end the guide for the cam/shaft was out of round and sloppy, and the triangle key way was worn. so i built up the shaft support and the triangle key so there was no slop, and the flap system opened and closed to it;s original stop points. Basically it worked like it should without the play. unfortunately it still throws an error code, But on the positive side, it feels a lot smoother and a little more responsive, which would be expected with its theoretical lengthening and shortening of the runner / air speed. I'm assuming 1 of two things, my sensor is indeed faulty or the output of the sensor is very position critical, and when it went back together it is not getting the numbers it is expecting. By all accounts I've been told they loose a bit of low down torque if you do the flapper delete kit. no to mention the idle suffers ... and lets face it, they idle like a diesel tractor to begin with. hope this helps a little ..
COOL THING! A shame that it did not remove the error. But as you mentioned, Ithink it could be simply the not exact position... but also that would mean that the fault would be thrown as soon as the flaps get sloppy... I did not test if you could turn the sensor (green element) for more then 360°, maybe yours is just out of original position.
I fixed it by using araldite epoxy .Mixed it put it in the triangular part.Put it back together let it set. Light went off and has been off for a month now.
The problem is it's made of plastic! Why? Companies that make any part with plastic are so stupid! Where did they go to school to learn this? Anybody knows that plastic and high heat temperatures don't mix! Especially when the mating surfaces are metal and plastic. Companies that do this need to stop making them out of plastic and start making them out of good old fashion metal! Maybe this was done intentionally to make money on parts and repairs. So stupid and greedy! By the way, plastic does wear, especially when used or some type of drive. Anyway, thanks for a great share and have a great one!
Not sure if anyone is still commenting on this video but i have a 2015 tiguan and I got the p2015 error code as well. Is there anyway to just clean the flaps? Or is a brand new manifold the best idea
I've owned one of these VW's for a few months now. It has 97K miles on it. This thing is a real POS. Too much plastic, relies too heavily on O-rings which swell and are ruined by oil contamination and this engine leaks like a sieve. I'll be selling this vehicle and saying good riddance to this piece of crap.
Hey at 10:40 you said you had that part out already to clean it. I'm just wondering how you cleaned it and what product you used to do so? Thanks alot!
Did you ever find a fix for this? I have a 2007 Audi A4 and they have the same engine and am at 171,000 miles and was going to replace my intake manifold, or possibly rebuild it if there is parts or a kit available for that but with the wear you are showing the plastic manifold might have just as much play as yours were new parts will just wear out in 1/3 the time. I think it might be time for an upgrade. Please let me know what you have found. I can give you my contact information so we can exchange our findings. Thank you so much, great video!
These Flaps give you more power, low end power (low revolutions/min). Cause they accelerate the airstream via closing/redusing the intake diameter in front of the valves. Since the same amount of air will be sucked in (turbo is not working at low rpm)the engine but with the reduced diameter the has to go fast and this improves the mixture in the zlinder. Since it is a TFSI with direct injection. I dont know what you would have to change to get a good low end behavior.
That was a great break down of what the problem is. I have 168,000 miles on my 09 MK5 GTI. I guess that was a good run on that intake. Well its going to get the updated version. Thanks for the break down and where all the issues are.
The loose conection at triangel part AND most important, the wrong/loose endstops. I dont know if they try to hold it in a half open/closed state. Sounds abit hard with a vacum actuator. So maybe the endstops are more important.
I also have his problem. there are now runner flap delete kits available for the tsi ea888 engine. you will still have the error code on the clocks but you can get this mapped at at a tuner
Yeah it could, cause the filling of the cylinder with air would be less effecient. But would you notice it? I dont know! The most noticable thing would be the error/mil ^^
I'm getting the same reading p2015 it's a leak in the intake manifold. When I drive my car, and I give it gas to go faster my intake manifold squeals , do you know what would cause this? I have a video of the sound.
Hi, the P2015 was gone after changing the manifold on the car of my friend. It was defintely the things that i showed in this video. The car atm has no faults but still some times some idle issues ... we will see.... and may fix it ^^ I watched your video, sounds more like a problem with the belt or one of the pulleys. Just remove the belt and do the same the test in the video again (not while driving, cause you will not have any powersteering!!). If its gone, check all pulley to see if they rotate nice.
Thanks for helping us. I have little question if possible. I was getting p2015 and installed bracket. It is 2.0 TDI CR with plastic intake manifold. Mechanic needed to take away manifold to install bracket, he disconnected fuel lines from high pressure fuel pump because they were covering intake manifold. Anyway, long story short, no more p2015 but after this engine started to work louder, after few days i noticed he did not tightened fuel line bolt from high pressure fuel pump to rail and the fuel was leaking under high pressure fuel pump, including revving up on idle to compensate for the pressure i guess. I visited mechanic once again and he fixed this by tightening the screw but engine still works louder along the vibrations on idle, no revving on idle anymore. Is it possible that 'ecu/computer' needs to learn new settings while driving, or there is 'air' in fuel lines? is it possible that he damaged hpfp because he did not tightened fuel line from hpfp to rail? or something else? thanks a lot to anyone having time to help me out
You should take a look at the HP-fuelpump, cause it has a plunger that rides on a camshaft extension at the vakuumpump. This plunger can go bad and damage it selfe and the pushrod of the HP-fuelpump. This will cause a tiking/nocking noise. But also the HP-fuelpump can be gone bad since it was under higher load then normal. These are all "maybes" cause a remote diagnosis is simply not perfect.
DONT EVER buy this part for only $60, the normal price (not dealer) is around $150. The dealer price without tax is $240. So 150 is cheap and sold via shopdap.com This repair/replacement is big, takes some times and you do not want to do it twice because you get a cheap part that is just a fake aftermarket. If one runnerflap brakes you will total your engine. Then 100$ more will sound cheap as hell.
Manuel Ortiz Using God's name in vein is only relevant if you believe in God. If you do not, then God is just another word. The same as ,it, then ,their or there. Just words. You should not really be pushing your religious views to someone else!
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You made me smile at: Focus, you goddamn shit!
Thanks for the complete disassembly. Now I know buying the new manifold was the correct decision without a doubt. Thanks.
My Beetle GSR is having such issues after only 12000miles and 6 years old. I found this most informative however not sure if I am brave enough to fix it myself. Cheers!
I jb welded the triangle piece to cut the slack and code disappeared I don’t know how long it lasted because I sold the car
i glued my triangel yesterday togather. i hope it last for vacation :-) later i will replace it.
Excellent !! Thank you :) and please never hide behind your ability to speak English, you speak better than most and you were absolutely crystal clear ! ( and funny)
Great vid thanks. Seems we protect against the fools in manufacturing making these things too much. By error proofing things like this so it can’t be fitted the wrong way around with simple tools such as square figment one end and triangular the other. Narrow minded design, quality comes last in todays society, it’s all about cost and profit. 👍🏼
Very helpful explanation, Thanks a lot for sharing.
"Focus you God dammed shit!" That's so German. So am I, probably why I laughed so hard.
Seriously, VW is dropping the ball on so many issues. So frustrating, I really like my CC.
I laughed and had to rewind it a few times. Made me laugh so hard bc it just sounded funny to me.
thank-you for pointing out, very helpful.
thanks for the video , i was looking for that king of complete explanation since many month , i 'm in the same situation with my octavia 1,8 tsi ( P2015..) and replacing the part with a new one which risks malfunctioning in the same way in some time is disapointing.
"Yay, triangles are great"!......funny. Excellent video!
They are so Triangular LOL
I died at "Focus you go# damn #@it" hahaha
But he missed most important problem. The problem is 1kleineMax1 himself: he did NOT show us how this contraption (control valve) should operate normally. For example, if you press accelerator pedal down, what should happen at high RPM's ? If I release accelerator pedal, what should happen (at idle)? This is important, because I see little or no action in my vehicle, but all the valves, all the sensors, control diaphragm moves well, test well. Adaptation Procedure via Scan Tool results in "Success", I can see the 0% and 99% on Scanner during Adaptation. I marked the Control Valve's STEM with white marks: maximum position, minimum position. I press accelerator, I see no movement. So, all these successful tests of manifold itself mean nothing. I must know what must happen with MAXIMUM and MINIMUM marks and how and when.
I had a loose vacuum line that made this code. After connecting it the engine light went away. Nice. Also found out i have the "revised " version of this intake . nice. This video did help me track down my problem.
How could you tell if you had the revised version?
@@andrewthompson6866 if you watch the video he explains the main differences between the two housings .. Version one is basically a all-in-one type of deal..version two is very similar but has some features that make it more dependable .. When you lift your hood and look onto the intake manifold you should be able to see the "actuator " .. If its a version two you can see the spine that goes from the actuator to the area of the manifold that does this flap work..
@@andrewthompson6866
ua-cam.com/video/5IVxPqriZkk/v-deo.html
video shows old vs revised version
Your English is pretty damn good and you're funny! Thanks for the great info as well!
My daughter has a 2010 golf 2.0 tdi and has same problem u will start removing the parts tomorrow, will this issue make the engine start running erratic as well as thought its going to cut out
I would not say that it would do that to the point of cuting out.
It just make the devolpment of a good and uniform mixture worse.
I have an Audi B8 with the very same "triangle" problem. The shop said that the entire mainfold has to be changed. It costs ~600€, which seems too much for a small worn plastic part. Isn't there a way to change just this part instead of the entire mainfold, or glue it to the shaft? The only problem is that if I remove the mainfold I will have to change the caskets, which I suppose cannot be re-used ?
You can not buy the peaces sepreatly, as far as i know. I could be possible to glue in the actuater/triangle peace but you have to use a two components glue that is able too fill gabs, also the possition of the flap while glueing ist very critical.
The intake should not cost 600€, more like 150€ to 300€ depending on where you buy it. The intake in my video has the partnumber 06J-133-201-BH, updated nummber with different design then in the video!
When removing/changing the intake you need the intake gasket, throttlebody gasket, 4 sets of injector gaskets and a special tool to install them.
1kleineMax1 Thanks, I do not know why the dealer is asking so much for it here. I would probably try to either import it, or glue it somehow. Thanks for the part number.
NP! If you have options, ask an other dealer and maybe also for a partnumber for your car, just to bee safe that the numbers match and VW-dealers allways get the newest revision. Also you need a breather tube that plugs into the new style vacum-solenoid. Humblemechanic shows the metal-plug and says that you should leave it open. But thats not true! there was a revision of the solenoid and if you bought it you got the breather tube too, i dont know if it will come with the new style intake which includes the new solenoid. (Number for new solenoid is 06H-906-283-B, dont have a number for the tube)
PS: By Mindfull with the glue if you try it. Cause too much will glue the flabs to the housing when it seeps out!
I’ve replaced this part twice on my 09 gti. It is now sitting in my driveway because it needs a third one. Total plastic garbage. I will never buy another vw
Did you buy the newest one? Direct from VW? The part that i show in the video is also from a 2009 GTI. We replaced it in 2016, and it is still wokring fine, so 6 years ... is still ok.
The current partnumber is: 06J133201BH
1kleineMax1 after seeing the video i may try fixing it again- myself. The quote for parts and labor is about $1200
@@reyjustimbaste1058 I would advise you to use this guide: ua-cam.com/video/c7c35MJq5e0/v-deo.html
Look for the seals of the injectors and the installtion tool for the teflonseal at the tip. Cause at least one injector will come out and then is best to change this seal.
This job is not something you can just do you need to be well prepared and teke your time.
I have a 2010 GTI with 104,000 miles. Driving this weekend on the Pennsylvania Turnpike the engine light came on and the code, read from Autozone, is P2015 for Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range Bank 1. Car seems to be running okay. VIN is: WVWEV7AJ6AW220359. Would replacing the Intake Manifold be covered under the extended warranty for this part at the VW dealer? Thank you!
I am wondering this too.
I know this is old, but i'm having a go at actually fixing the old one.(just to prove i can do it)
thanks to your video i have an idea on removing the flaps before i did it myself. also confirmed exactly what i had discovered.
BTW I loved your vid, put a smile on my face - yar triangles are goodt it will be fine.
Report back if you were able to fix it! For my friend it was not an option, he did want the problem to comeback soon. Also we didnt found any information about people successfully fixing it.
OK i did the repair, found the exact same issues shown here.
what i discovered was at the armature end the guide for the cam/shaft was out of round and sloppy, and the triangle key way was worn. so i built up the shaft support and the triangle key so there was no slop, and the flap system opened and closed to it;s original stop points.
Basically it worked like it should without the play.
unfortunately it still throws an error code, But on the positive side, it feels a lot smoother and a little more responsive, which would be expected with its theoretical lengthening and shortening of the runner / air speed.
I'm assuming 1 of two things, my sensor is indeed faulty or the output of the sensor is very position critical, and when it went back together it is not getting the numbers it is expecting.
By all accounts I've been told they loose a bit of low down torque if you do the flapper delete kit.
no to mention the idle suffers ... and lets face it, they idle like a diesel tractor to begin with.
hope this helps a little ..
COOL THING! A shame that it did not remove the error. But as you mentioned, Ithink it could be simply the not exact position... but also that would mean that the fault would be thrown as soon as the flaps get sloppy...
I did not test if you could turn the sensor (green element) for more then 360°, maybe yours is just out of original position.
I fixed it by using araldite epoxy .Mixed it put it in the triangular part.Put it back together let it set. Light went off and has been off for a month now.
Troy Allen help no inglés. Se puede remover las flapes????? Help
Danka very much.
That was very illustrative
Great video ! Thanks
The problem is it's made of plastic! Why? Companies that make any part with plastic are so stupid! Where did they go to school to learn this? Anybody knows that plastic and high heat temperatures don't mix! Especially when the mating surfaces are metal and plastic. Companies that do this need to stop making them out of plastic and start making them out of good old fashion metal! Maybe this was done intentionally to make money on parts and repairs. So stupid and greedy! By the way, plastic does wear, especially when used or some type of drive. Anyway, thanks for a great share and have a great one!
huh that curious they havent fixed vw? which one problem issue that has gti R 2010-2015?
Plastic parts won't last long in Tropical weather...
Not sure if anyone is still commenting on this video but i have a 2015 tiguan and I got the p2015 error code as well. Is there anyway to just clean the flaps? Or is a brand new manifold the best idea
Is it now better to pull the shit out and not install it back
do you fix the problem? thanks for the video is very helpful for me
I've owned one of these VW's for a few months now. It has 97K miles on it. This thing is a real POS. Too much plastic, relies too heavily on O-rings which swell and are ruined by oil contamination and this engine leaks like a sieve. I'll be selling this vehicle and saying good riddance to this piece of crap.
Hey at 10:40 you said you had that part out already to clean it. I'm just wondering how you cleaned it and what product you used to do so? Thanks alot!
Tnx man I really got it! great piece!
Dude you are so funny.😂 Nice video. It all makes sense. Thnx
your sarcastic humor made this video even more awesome! lol "I like triangles" LOL
Could someone summarize for me? Im from poland and i don’t understand. Thanks
Surely VW should be rectifying this with a redesign that uses metal parts instead O_O
yes they have . there is a new one available that is supposed to of fixed these issues.
Part Number: 06J-133-201-BH
I bought a new 1 and still getting P0 2015 and 2014
Did you ever find a fix for this? I have a 2007 Audi A4 and they have the same engine and am at 171,000 miles and was going to replace my intake manifold, or possibly rebuild it if there is parts or a kit available for that but with the wear you are showing the plastic manifold might have just as much play as yours were new parts will just wear out in 1/3 the time. I think it might be time for an upgrade. Please let me know what you have found. I can give you my contact information so we can exchange our findings. Thank you so much, great video!
Very good information. Thank u
Found out that if your modifying your car you can remove the flaps all together and get more power out of your vehicle, minutes fuel economy
These Flaps give you more power, low end power (low revolutions/min). Cause they accelerate the airstream via closing/redusing the intake diameter in front of the valves. Since the same amount of air will be sucked in (turbo is not working at low rpm)the engine but with the reduced diameter the has to go fast and this improves the mixture in the zlinder. Since it is a TFSI with direct injection.
I dont know what you would have to change to get a good low end behavior.
That was a great break down of what the problem is. I have 168,000 miles on my 09 MK5 GTI. I guess that was a good run on that intake. Well its going to get the updated version. Thanks for the break down and where all the issues are.
So whats the real cause of P2015 fault code? The losse triangle part or the green postioning sensor?
The loose conection at triangel part AND most important, the wrong/loose endstops.
I dont know if they try to hold it in a half open/closed state. Sounds abit hard with a vacum actuator. So maybe the endstops are more important.
Programmed Wear
I also have his problem. there are now runner flap delete kits available for the tsi ea888 engine. you will still have the error code on the clocks but you can get this mapped at at a tuner
Para Dox that's what I am thinking of doing . But if it can't run the output test will it put In limp mode? Any idea?
Guys have you managed to fix the issue as I'm having the same problem
the more edges you have the more likely things get rounded off
Excelente información , saludos amigo
Hi thanks for this great video, can this cause a high fuel consumption?
Yeah it could, cause the filling of the cylinder with air would be less effecient. But would you notice it? I dont know!
The most noticable thing would be the error/mil ^^
this video it a jewel. thank yooooooouuuuuuuu
Thanks a lot for sharing this. It's really useful video 👍
13:45 tell me, does the output occur in a part with a triangular hole or on the axis of the flaps
I'm getting the same reading p2015 it's a leak in the intake manifold. When I drive my car, and I give it gas to go faster my intake manifold squeals , do you know what would cause this? I have a video of the sound.
Hi, the P2015 was gone after changing the manifold on the car of my friend. It was defintely the things that i showed in this video. The car atm has no faults but still some times some idle issues ... we will see.... and may fix it ^^
I watched your video, sounds more like a problem with the belt or one of the pulleys. Just remove the belt and do the same the test in the video again (not while driving, cause you will not have any powersteering!!). If its gone, check all pulley to see if they rotate nice.
Andrew Chondo the pcv solenoid causes the squeal
What sensor was that at 3 minutes and eight seconds mark
potentiometer which looks at the position of the flaps
good info
Good job
don't try to fix poorly designed intake manifold, just throw it in the bin and replace it with aluminium aftermarket that will last like forever
Really? Dealership wants like $500 to replace this, do you have a link for this.
Excellent info, thank you
Спасибо. Супер ) 👍
I love hearing Germans complain about German car design. It's good to know that even they admit that the design is stupid.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video..... Dein Englisch ist besser als mein Deutsch
I replaced the whole intake I still have the same code
Original part?
very help full cheers.
Excellent helpful video
Excellent information thanks
Thanks for helping us. I have little question if possible. I was getting p2015 and installed bracket. It is 2.0 TDI CR with plastic intake manifold. Mechanic needed to take away manifold to install bracket, he disconnected fuel lines from high pressure fuel pump because they were covering intake manifold. Anyway, long story short, no more p2015 but after this engine started to work louder, after few days i noticed he did not tightened fuel line bolt from high pressure fuel pump to rail and the fuel was leaking under high pressure fuel pump, including revving up on idle to compensate for the pressure i guess. I visited mechanic once again and he fixed this by tightening the screw but engine still works louder along the vibrations on idle, no revving on idle anymore. Is it possible that 'ecu/computer' needs to learn new settings while driving, or there is 'air' in fuel lines? is it possible that he damaged hpfp because he did not tightened fuel line from hpfp to rail? or something else? thanks a lot to anyone having time to help me out
You should take a look at the HP-fuelpump, cause it has a plunger that rides on a camshaft extension at the vakuumpump. This plunger can go bad and damage it selfe and the pushrod of the HP-fuelpump. This will cause a tiking/nocking noise. But also the HP-fuelpump can be gone bad since it was under higher load then normal.
These are all "maybes" cause a remote diagnosis is simply not perfect.
I'll go with that
thanks
it is only $60.00. in internet. I fixed it, it give me problem again. better replace with new part.
DONT EVER buy this part for only $60, the normal price (not dealer) is around $150.
The dealer price without tax is $240. So 150 is cheap and sold via shopdap.com
This repair/replacement is big, takes some times and you do not want to do it twice because you get a cheap part that is just a fake aftermarket.
If one runnerflap brakes you will total your engine. Then 100$ more will sound cheap as hell.
@@1kleineMax1 I have the same problem with my Golf GT 1.4 MK5. What is the best solution?
@@silahim79 There are many different Models and i dont know what engine you have. Normaly the GT should have a 2.0L engine.
@@1kleineMax1 It is 1.4 tsi 170 hp engine.
I think this manifold doesn't have moving flaps....
Great feet back .
vielen Dank!
Спасибо!
Existem reparo pra isto em seus país ?
Portuguese for: Is there repair for this in your country?
all parts in fu..ing plastik !! quality vw ??? pfff........ price up car and quality down ...
pls stay with german
Very good video! The only issue with me is that why do you use Gods name in vein bro. God loves you and your family. Please avoid. God bless you!
Manuel Ortiz Using God's name in vein is only relevant if you believe in God. If you do not, then God is just another word. The same as ,it, then ,their or there. Just words.
You should not really be pushing your religious views to someone else!
"in vein"? lol God cares more about grammar than youtube comments, sorry.