Great review not only about the test machine but also some tips and points to measure against and in English language since I came across many in Russian ...Konnwei must know i bougth this item after watching your reveiw...please do another review' In out of vehicle
Thanks a lot!!! The only difference with out of vehicle is that it just shows you the menu for battery test only; the same battery test done in the video. Nothing is different at all. It removes the cranking and charging since it won't have access to the starter and alternator respectively.
Hi, there is another video by another person that did the out of vehicle. If you can't find, you to Amazon and find this product. Scroll through the pictures and there is a video of a mechanic . In hope this helps you 🙂
This is the best review I found regarding this battery tester. All the other videos are either in different languages or are done by people that don't know what they're talking about. Thumbs up my friend, I salute you for this great review. Now I know how to use this battery tester since I got it today. I won't be making mistakes. 🥰
Thanks to your review I bought that little tester and was able to buy good battery from the shop. Yes I know hiw it sound but car batteries can sit on shop /warehouses shelves for years and discharge damage them. i found few batteries on shelf with 65-70% life left🙈 bought one with 96% . Great review thank you
That's the way! I'm always armed with this when buying a battery. If you don't already, also explore charging the battery on a schedule out of the car. It will last much longer.
Here's a comparison I made between this tester and a Schumacher BT-100 load tester, which applies 100 amp load during the test. I used a lithium-ion phosphate battery going through a jump pack cable for some bench testing. The battery I tested showed a 2.89 volt drop under a 93.2A load. Dividing the voltage drop by the current gives the resistance measurement. This translates to a internal battery resistance of 31 millohms. Using the conductance tester, it showed a CCA of 118 and a resistance of 25.6 milliohms. The results are pretty close and were repeatable from run to run, so my particular tester seems to be doing a fairly good job using the small 1.5A load instead of the larger 100A load. The key to using this tester is making sure you have the proper connection to the battery. One issue is that the clamp is too small to fit over most terminals and people will try to just clip on whatever they can get to, and that can result in erratic readings.
I was using this KW208 tester to figure out why my jump pack was working so poorly and it was able to easily determine the problem with mainly due to the on/off switch that this jump pack from harbor freight used. When testing by clipping on to the switch feed input versus the switch output I could see a huge difference in the CCA measurement. The nice thing with this is that it uses very little current during the test so it doesn't drain out the battery as I was repeatedly trying the different comparison load tests. As a result of the tests I decided to just connect the output cables directly instead of going through the switch and it works much better now. Using the tester I also was able to easily determine that the fairly large drop was due to the cables themselves, but there is no good way to fix that without cutting short or getting beefier cables than the ones harbor freight used on the Centech jump pack. This little tester is proving pretty invaluable, especially for the price that Walmart has it for 😉
@@DIYAutoworksNG It was nice to see that the principle behind the tester was sound. I was actually thinking about using an add on for adding a separate wire connection to the sense line with a secondary clip to allow the proper connection to be made more easily, in case the terminal is too fat for the tester to handle. All that needs to be done is use a metal tab between the serrated jaw and the terminal, insulating it from contact with the terminal, and have a wire connected from the tab to a second clamp for attaching to the terminal separately. Should be easy enough to do -
Very good review. I’ve just bought one now after seeing this video. Bought it off a company called Banggood. Never heard of them before, hope they’re ok??? Lol Can’t complain for only £19 inc shipping to the UK 👍
I received the konnwei unit a few days ago and am impressed with it using it on the two cars we have. On the cranking test, do you know what the min and max voltage figures refer to? I wonder if that’s a set figure, or relating to the battery being tested. I thought usually on a cranking test there would be just one voltage result, not two? Ive read the little instruction book and it doesn’t mention it. Great piece of kit 😀
Congrats on your acquisition. Also for verifying Banggood. 😄 The 2 voltages reflect the min & max voltage outputs the battery was able to deliver while the starter was pulling a load on the battery to start the car. The minimum value is important because below a certain value, it means the battery is either no good or that the starter is faulty and pulling an abnormally high load from the battery.
The one I got has a white backlight, I guess they were changed at some point. It's a bit brighter than needed when working at night, but it can serve as a flashlight if needed 😎
@@DIYAutoworksNG The green is actually the latest version apparently, because your serial number is higher than the one I got with the white flashlight screen 😎 Same version numbers though.
I have just used my kw208 today and got good results. However, what was interesting was that i received a state of health of 50% for my current car battery and the tool advised to replace it. The battery is only 2 yeare old and so i was a little surprised that 50% state of health reading is seen as a battery that needs replacing? Also i was wondering if your foxspur battery charging tool which i also have could increase the health of my battery using the pulse feature? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The internal resistance of the battery is likely quite high. The foxsur pulse repair will do the battery good and improve the SOH (may be slight), however, I have noticed that once the kw208 says replace, I haven't been able to get it to 'unsay' it by repairing the battery lol. Take note, this just means that the battery failed a certain threshold. When I got a failed test, I still used the battery for several months before it started giving symptoms that could get you stranded.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I think that I will continue with the batter for the time being and just keep a close eye on its performance. I may use the pulse repair feature further down the line too but it's a case of monitoring things for the time being. I have a Varta F17 car battery and it has never failed to start the car so far so fingers crossed and thank you once again.
Good. Only thing I'd suggest is doing the pulse repair sooner than later. The longer a battery sits stratified, the harder the lead crystals get, and more difficult repair becomes.
So just to understand when testing the alternator, the test is ran after revving the engine to 2500 rpm but not during? Thanks for the video, definitely helps.
The test involves testing different components of the alternator, rectifier, voltage regulator, etc. Testing is done before (idle) and during the 2500RPMs.
It seems like the enter button is supposed to be pushed while the engine is revving for 10 seconds, but in all the videos I've seen, it's pushed after it returns to idle, and it didn't seem to affect the results.
Great review, best I've seen. For the very first test is the key on at all? I saw it said turn headlights on for 10secs, but do we keep the key completely off until we go to the charging tests? Thanks!!
I don't think this information is stated in the manual but should follow the pretty standard route of applying a load to the battery and measuring the current.
@@DIYAutoworksNG curious what kind of load is applied through those thin test leads. Must be a very transient load, I'll have to put a current probe on it to see when I get one to test out.
Got one of these and ran a test on it to see what it's doing. The unit applies a 1.5A load in a 250Hz square wave for a duration of 400ms to do the test. The cable clamp is set up in a 4 wire configuration so the voltage at the battery can be more accurately measured for its response to the 1.5A current. Calculation of the battery resistance is based on how much the voltage drops with the load current applied compared to the no load portion in the test.
Hello and thanks for the video. When doing the charging test, I see you increase RPM first and then you go back to the tester and press enter. I thought you should first press enter and then go increase RPM. Am I wrong? Thanks
It actually is better to allow the battery to sit for a while rather than test it right after you charge it. The numbers are counterintuitively lower if you test it right after you take it off the charger.
How accurate is this? I bought this before finding your video, sadly I get different readings everytime regardless of voltage. I’ll redo the test multiple times and I’ll get every single result minus bad cell, replace. Each test will have been performed consecutively within minutes of each other in the same session and yet every reading is different. For example if CCA is 500, it’ll read 460 on one test and say good battery. Next test will read 280 and say replace. Next test will say 420 good recharge, next test 380 charge-retest. I don’t know how to feel about this product as I get completely inconsistent readings all performed in the same session within 60 seconds of each other while the tester is still hooked onto the battery. Based on my experience it seems that the tester will give me results based on my CCA. Neither my voltage or soc/soh/rated/ohms have any effect on what result I get. The only reading that fluctuates is the CCA and depending on where it’s at during the battery test based on my experience, will be the only factor to determine what result I get. I apologize for the length of my comment, but seeing as this video is a couple years old, I’m hoping that you continued to use this product and either ran across this same scenario, or have used it enough to give your expertise. My problem may be that I do not like to run a test once and accept the results given. I like to run tests 3-5 times and use the majority test result to determine what actually is going on, rather than doing a test once and accepting that result, when that result may not be accurate. Unfortunately my experience with this tester is proving to be challenging as I cannot get a solid majority result to let me know effectively what is wrong with my battery. Could inconsistent readings also be an indicator of something? Thanks for all the videos you do as always I always look forward to them and thanks for taking the time to respond. I appreciate your time and value your expertise!
Adding onto this. The first time I used it on my vehicle was in the morning after the vehicle had been sitting all night because the day before my battery randomly lost power even though I left nothing on for power to be drawn and was around 10v and I had to jump start my vehicle. I let the vehicle sit overnight and tested it first thing in the morning before starting the vehicle. At that point every time I ran the test it was actually consistent and said charge-retest. Well I started the vehicle up no problems and later on during the day once the vehicle had been driven the tests started to say good battery or good-recharge consistently. The following day just to see how the battery was doing I hooked it up and that is when I got those different readings that I had mentioned in my previous comment above. Inconsistent and not accurate. I wanted to added this incase knowing this could help provide better feedback. If you’ve not run through this scenario with this product hopefully somebody who has will also be able to give their expertise on this situation so I’ll leave this comment in hopes that it will help somebody someday!
It should on the regular 12v AGM XS power batteries. You'll just need to select AGM as battery type as well as the rest of the parameters as appropriate.
I bought this unit and my results are not making sense . It was a 760 CCA BATTERY and the results showed 1150 CCA with 100% SOH and a voltage of 12.03. listed as GOOD -RECHARGE. HOW CAN THE CCA be higher? Then I went of a long 1hr ride at 55-60 MPH. Tested it again, still at 12.02 volts but SOH WAS 53% and listed as GOOD RECHARGE. And your results show 12.80 volts with a betterSoH then me and it states REPLACE. I don’t know about this unit. I has good reviews but things don’t add up.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I tested the battery 15 hrs after last driving. Surface charge accounts for only 1% of the voltage. My voltage was lower. Up to 12.36 v with a voltmeter after the car went “ to sleep” . Maybe your resistance was high and that is why it stated REPLACE even with a voltage of 12.8 ( which is very high, almost too high) . It was odd to see a CCA result of 1150 when the battery was rated at 760CCA even if there was a surface charge . Anyway thanks for the replies. It is a simple device and maybe just an anomaly. Did not have any battery problems before testing . I was just wondering what the battery condition of all my cars were since they are getting older. The konnwei was only sale for $20 at Amazon.
If you don't turn on the headlights for 10 seconds to clear surface charge when prompted by the tool, your readings will be off. However, 15 hrs after driving should be enough to clear surface charge. The replace recommendation is based on internal resistance I believe, a sulfated battery may still have a high voltage but the CCA will be low.
Ouch. The device is quite accurate. Time to part with some cash. I have tried repeatedly to see if I could charge any battery that it rated "replace" back to "Good Battery", using repair mode on a charger, no success to date. On the bright side, also use the device when you go to buy a new battery. You'll be surprised at what you'd find.
cranking test is not testing the starter motor, isnt just a test to see if the batter is good or not for starting.. it shouldnt have anything to do with the starter motor.
Thanks a lot. While you are correct that the cranking test in a way, is a test on the battery's performance, this tool's cranking test does test the starter motor. Battery voltage while cranking is an indication of starter function. See excerpt from the manual of the KW208 tool: "Cranking test helps you analyze the starting motor including cranking voltage and the cranking time to check the starting motor works properly or not" This independent resource also backs this up: constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14050/css/Cranking-Voltage-Test-92.htm
I tested mine it says “good recharge “ what does this mean my battery is no good ? because I’m having issues with my car it will start in the morning then if I go shopping it will not start. Battery is strong all lights work etc then after 10 tries or so my car will start! what could be the problem ? i did a crank test and it said “ charging high “ any help would be appreciated since i’m tight on money
@CHB_98 "Good Recharge" means you have a good battery that is low on charge. That's understandable from the multiple cranks you said it requires to start the car. Was it a crank or charging test you did next? Either way, hard starting can be a bunch of things; vacuum leaks, stuck pcv valve, dirty MAF sensor, throttle body, defective cold start switch (Toyota) and many more. What car is it?
@@DIYAutoworksNG hi it’s a 09 gmc acadia , I did a cranking test and it said normal , I have recharged the battery hope the problem goes away I was thinking it maybe the starter ?
Great review not only about the test machine but also some tips and points to measure against and in English language since I came across many in Russian ...Konnwei must know i bougth this item after watching your reveiw...please do another review' In out of vehicle
Thanks a lot!!!
The only difference with out of vehicle is that it just shows you the menu for battery test only; the same battery test done in the video. Nothing is different at all. It removes the cranking and charging since it won't have access to the starter and alternator respectively.
Hi, there is another video by another person that did the out of vehicle. If you can't find, you to Amazon and find this product. Scroll through the pictures and there is a video of a mechanic . In hope this helps you 🙂
Thank you for this video! You saved me the trouble of trying to decipher the poor instructions that came with it.
This is the best review I found regarding this battery tester. All the other videos are either in different languages or are done by people that don't know what they're talking about. Thumbs up my friend, I salute you for this great review. Now I know how to use this battery tester since I got it today. I won't be making mistakes. 🥰
Thanks a lot!!!!
This was one of the best reviews for a product I have ever seen. Very precise, easy to understand, you explained everything. I loved it!
Thanks!
Thanks to your review I bought that little tester and was able to buy good battery from the shop. Yes I know hiw it sound but car batteries can sit on shop /warehouses shelves for years and discharge damage them. i found few batteries on shelf with 65-70% life left🙈 bought one with 96% . Great review thank you
That's the way! I'm always armed with this when buying a battery. If you don't already, also explore charging the battery on a schedule out of the car. It will last much longer.
Here's a comparison I made between this tester and a Schumacher BT-100 load tester, which applies 100 amp load during the test.
I used a lithium-ion phosphate battery going through a jump pack cable for some bench testing.
The battery I tested showed a 2.89 volt drop under a 93.2A load.
Dividing the voltage drop by the current gives the resistance measurement.
This translates to a internal battery resistance of 31 millohms.
Using the conductance tester, it showed a CCA of 118 and a resistance of 25.6 milliohms.
The results are pretty close and were repeatable from run to run, so my particular tester seems to be doing a fairly good job using the small 1.5A load instead of the larger 100A load.
The key to using this tester is making sure you have the proper connection to the battery. One issue is that the clamp is too small to fit over most terminals and people will try to just clip on whatever they can get to, and that can result in erratic readings.
I was using this KW208 tester to figure out why my jump pack was working so poorly and it was able to easily determine the problem with mainly due to the on/off switch that this jump pack from harbor freight used.
When testing by clipping on to the switch feed input versus the switch output I could see a huge difference in the CCA measurement. The nice thing with this is that it uses very little current during the test so it doesn't drain out the battery as I was repeatedly trying the different comparison load tests.
As a result of the tests I decided to just connect the output cables directly instead of going through the switch and it works much better now.
Using the tester I also was able to easily determine that the fairly large drop was due to the cables themselves, but there is no good way to fix that without cutting short or getting beefier cables than the ones harbor freight used on the Centech jump pack.
This little tester is proving pretty invaluable, especially for the price that Walmart has it for 😉
Thanks for sharing this!
Good to know it's checking the boxes with your independent tests!
@@DIYAutoworksNG It was nice to see that the principle behind the tester was sound.
I was actually thinking about using an add on for adding a separate wire connection to the sense line with a secondary clip to allow the proper connection to be made more easily, in case the terminal is too fat for the tester to handle.
All that needs to be done is use a metal tab between the serrated jaw and the terminal, insulating it from contact with the terminal, and have a wire connected from the tab to a second clamp for attaching to the terminal separately. Should be easy enough to do -
Sounds good!
Excellent review of a good product. Keep up the great work.
Much appreciated!
Thank you very much for uploading this video of how this product works because I bought it on aliexpress and I had no idea you explain it very well
Thanks for the compliment!
Super clear review of the product...easy to understand..Thanks For the review...now i can make a decision
Great. Glad I could be of help.
Good video, and the editing made it way easier to watch then watching someone run back and forth.
Thank you!
Many thanks!
Excellent review! Thank you for sharing this information!
My pleasure!
Thanks for makes this video clip bro..easy to understand and using this product 🎉🎉
Many thanks!
Very good review. I’ve just bought one now after seeing this video. Bought it off a company called Banggood. Never heard of them before, hope they’re ok??? Lol Can’t complain for only £19 inc shipping to the UK 👍
Lol. I know banggood but have not procured from there before.
I received the konnwei unit a few days ago and am impressed with it using it on the two cars we have. On the cranking test, do you know what the min and max voltage figures refer to? I wonder if that’s a set figure, or relating to the battery being tested. I thought usually on a cranking test there would be just one voltage result, not two?
Ive read the little instruction book and it doesn’t mention it.
Great piece of kit 😀
Congrats on your acquisition. Also for verifying Banggood. 😄
The 2 voltages reflect the min & max voltage outputs the battery was able to deliver while the starter was pulling a load on the battery to start the car. The minimum value is important because below a certain value, it means the battery is either no good or that the starter is faulty and pulling an abnormally high load from the battery.
Thanks for the video! I appreciate the review and it helps with making a decision to purchase this tester over others. Seems solid enough.
Thanks a lot mate!
Yea. Nice piece of kit.
Incidentally, used it 2 days ago when my neighbour called me to help check their car battery.
Great video and explanation, thank you!
You are welcome!
Thanks for your review...very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the review... Now I understand how to use it.Nice video.
Thanks!
Finally a good explaination!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Im planning to buy this one also.
Good choice 👌🏼. Mine still works well.
Great video and you explained it very well. I don't like the green screen looks old school but it does the job in the end.
Thanks! Don't like the green screen too, but not enough to overlook how effective it is. Happy with this purchase.
The one I got has a white backlight, I guess they were changed at some point. It's a bit brighter than needed when working at night, but it can serve as a flashlight if needed 😎
Nice! I thought I was ordering the white one, only for it to show up green😅
@@DIYAutoworksNG The green is actually the latest version apparently, because your serial number is higher than the one I got with the white flashlight screen 😎
Same version numbers though.
I like the flash light😀
Great review on an inexpensive tester. Mine came with the blue display. :o)
Thanks! Lucky you on the blue screen. 😂
Great review. thanks for making this video!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video, it really helps.
Happy you found it useful! Thanks for sharing.
Good review bro! 😎👍
Thanks! 👍
Very good review!!
Many thanks!
Good explanation! 😃👍
Thanks
Thank you for this review it was very helpful 🙏
You're welcome!
Thank you for this!
You're welcome!
Fantastic review!
Thanks!
A very helpful video. Keep it up
Many thanks!
Thank you for your awesome review 👍👍
Thanks!
Awesome video
Thanks for the compliment!
Great video. 👍
Thanks!
Very informative review
Many thanks!
I have just used my kw208 today and got good results. However, what was interesting was that i received a state of health of 50% for my current car battery and the tool advised to replace it. The battery is only 2 yeare old and so i was a little surprised that 50% state of health reading is seen as a battery that needs replacing? Also i was wondering if your foxspur battery charging tool which i also have could increase the health of my battery using the pulse feature? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The internal resistance of the battery is likely quite high. The foxsur pulse repair will do the battery good and improve the SOH (may be slight), however, I have noticed that once the kw208 says replace, I haven't been able to get it to 'unsay' it by repairing the battery lol. Take note, this just means that the battery failed a certain threshold. When I got a failed test, I still used the battery for several months before it started giving symptoms that could get you stranded.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I think that I will continue with the batter for the time being and just keep a close eye on its performance. I may use the pulse repair feature further down the line too but it's a case of monitoring things for the time being. I have a Varta F17 car battery and it has never failed to start the car so far so fingers crossed and thank you once again.
Good. Only thing I'd suggest is doing the pulse repair sooner than later. The longer a battery sits stratified, the harder the lead crystals get, and more difficult repair becomes.
@@DIYAutoworksNGThanks for another great tip. I'll hopefully get the battery out of the car and get it on pulse repair asap.🙏🏾
The green display was probably old stock from a prior revision. The update just didn't warrant new model #.
So just to understand when testing the alternator, the test is ran after revving the engine to 2500 rpm but not during? Thanks for the video, definitely helps.
The test involves testing different components of the alternator, rectifier, voltage regulator, etc. Testing is done before (idle) and during the 2500RPMs.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks for the clarification!
It seems like the enter button is supposed to be pushed while the engine is revving for 10 seconds, but in all the videos I've seen, it's pushed after it returns to idle, and it didn't seem to affect the results.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr interesting. I think it should be pressed while it is revving. But for this you need two persons.
Thank you for the review
You're welcome!
Great review, best I've seen. For the very first test is the key on at all? I saw it said turn headlights on for 10secs, but do we keep the key completely off until we go to the charging tests? Thanks!!
Thanks for the compliment!
Yep. Ignition should be off for the battery test.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you!
Excellent video
Thanks!
Thanks!
any information on how it makes its measurements? Does it momentarily load with a transient current and measure the voltage drop?
I don't think this information is stated in the manual but should follow the pretty standard route of applying a load to the battery and measuring the current.
@@DIYAutoworksNG curious what kind of load is applied through those thin test leads. Must be a very transient load, I'll have to put a current probe on it to see when I get one to test out.
Nice plan!
Got one of these and ran a test on it to see what it's doing.
The unit applies a 1.5A load in a 250Hz square wave for a duration of 400ms to do the test. The cable clamp is set up in a 4 wire configuration so the voltage at the battery can be more accurately measured for its response to the 1.5A current.
Calculation of the battery resistance is based on how much the voltage drops with the load current applied compared to the no load portion in the test.
Nice analysis. Thanks for sharing!
nice video thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you Sir
Pleasure.
thank you buddy !
You're welcome. Thanks!
If the device is not starting after connecting to the battery terminals, does it mean the battery is completely dead?
Yes, or that it doesn't have good contact with the terminals.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks reply back so quickly
You're welcome!
Thank you 👍
TNX man !! :)
I am wondering if you do repeated tests with 5 mins interval, will it shows the same results (or at least, minimum deviation from one to another)?
I haven't tried that.
Tnks Bro.
You're welcome
Hello and thanks for the video. When doing the charging test, I see you increase RPM first and then you go back to the tester and press enter. I thought you should first press enter and then go increase RPM. Am I wrong? Thanks
I followed the procedure per the instructions on the tool. It tells you to raise and hold the RPM before pressing ENTER.
Can you measure current leaking with this device?
You mean like a parasitic drain? No. A multimeter is the better tool.
@@DIYAutoworksNG yes, ok so standard method with AMps. Thanks!
Hi, I Wanna Ask... Did We Need To Fully Charged The Battery Before We Can Test It?
The tester will work either way. If the battery is not properly charged, it will tell you to charge and retest.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Owh... Okay2... Thanks Ya Boss... :)
👌🏼👍🏼
It actually is better to allow the battery to sit for a while rather than test it right after you charge it. The numbers are counterintuitively lower if you test it right after you take it off the charger.
I agree. Especially if testing out of vehicle. If testing in vehicle, the tool usually prompts to turn on the headlights to clear surface charge.
Thankyou
You're welcome!
How accurate is this? I bought this before finding your video, sadly I get different readings everytime regardless of voltage. I’ll redo the test multiple times and I’ll get every single result minus bad cell, replace. Each test will have been performed consecutively within minutes of each other in the same session and yet every reading is different. For example if CCA is 500, it’ll read 460 on one test and say good battery. Next test will read 280 and say replace. Next test will say 420 good recharge, next test 380 charge-retest. I don’t know how to feel about this product as I get completely inconsistent readings all performed in the same session within 60 seconds of each other while the tester is still hooked onto the battery. Based on my experience it seems that the tester will give me results based on my CCA. Neither my voltage or soc/soh/rated/ohms have any effect on what result I get. The only reading that fluctuates is the CCA and depending on where it’s at during the battery test based on my experience, will be the only factor to determine what result I get. I apologize for the length of my comment, but seeing as this video is a couple years old, I’m hoping that you continued to use this product and either ran across this same scenario, or have used it enough to give your expertise. My problem may be that I do not like to run a test once and accept the results given. I like to run tests 3-5 times and use the majority test result to determine what actually is going on, rather than doing a test once and accepting that result, when that result may not be accurate. Unfortunately my experience with this tester is proving to be challenging as I cannot get a solid majority result to let me know effectively what is wrong with my battery. Could inconsistent readings also be an indicator of something? Thanks for all the videos you do as always I always look forward to them and thanks for taking the time to respond. I appreciate your time and value your expertise!
Adding onto this. The first time I used it on my vehicle was in the morning after the vehicle had been sitting all night because the day before my battery randomly lost power even though I left nothing on for power to be drawn and was around 10v and I had to jump start my vehicle. I let the vehicle sit overnight and tested it first thing in the morning before starting the vehicle. At that point every time I ran the test it was actually consistent and said charge-retest. Well I started the vehicle up no problems and later on during the day once the vehicle had been driven the tests started to say good battery or good-recharge consistently. The following day just to see how the battery was doing I hooked it up and that is when I got those different readings that I had mentioned in my previous comment above. Inconsistent and not accurate. I wanted to added this incase knowing this could help provide better feedback. If you’ve not run through this scenario with this product hopefully somebody who has will also be able to give their expertise on this situation so I’ll leave this comment in hopes that it will help somebody someday!
So it powers on when you connect it to a battery?
Yes.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I think mine is defective. It won't power on.
What would be tge reason it wouldn't power on when i have it connected to battery?@DIYAutoworksNG
My battery is 5 months old and Resistance is 6.2 or 5.5 is it OK battery health is 80% and CCA 590 out of 595 I am curious why Resistance is higher
What's the state of charge? Resistance of less than 10 Ohm is good.
SOH - 90%
SOC - 80%
CCA -590
Measure - 580
Because the SOC is 80%, if you charge it externally back to 100%; or as close as it can get to it, the internal resistance should drop a bit further.
Does it work on xs power battery
It should on the regular 12v AGM XS power batteries. You'll just need to select AGM as battery type as well as the rest of the parameters as appropriate.
Display won't come on when cables are connected.
Is it a known bad battery? If so, the battery is too dead to be tested.
I bought this unit and my results are not making sense . It was a 760 CCA BATTERY and the results showed 1150 CCA with 100% SOH and a voltage of 12.03. listed as GOOD -RECHARGE. HOW CAN THE CCA be higher? Then I went of a long 1hr ride at 55-60 MPH. Tested it again, still at 12.02 volts but SOH WAS 53% and listed as GOOD RECHARGE. And your results show 12.80 volts with a betterSoH then me and it states REPLACE. I don’t know about this unit. I has good reviews but things don’t add up.
Seems you didn't remove surface charge before running the test, or did you?
@@DIYAutoworksNG I tested the battery 15 hrs after last driving. Surface charge accounts for only 1% of the voltage. My voltage was lower. Up to 12.36 v with a voltmeter after the car went “ to sleep” . Maybe your resistance was high and that is why it stated REPLACE even with a voltage of 12.8 ( which is very high, almost too high) . It was odd to see a CCA result of 1150 when the battery was rated at 760CCA even if there was a surface charge . Anyway thanks for the replies. It is a simple device and maybe just an anomaly. Did not have any battery problems before testing . I was just wondering what the battery condition of all my cars were since they are getting older. The konnwei was only sale for $20 at Amazon.
If you don't turn on the headlights for 10 seconds to clear surface charge when prompted by the tool, your readings will be off. However, 15 hrs after driving should be enough to clear surface charge. The replace recommendation is based on internal resistance I believe, a sulfated battery may still have a high voltage but the CCA will be low.
Thank you, I bought one and mines said bad cell😩
Ouch. The device is quite accurate. Time to part with some cash. I have tried repeatedly to see if I could charge any battery that it rated "replace" back to "Good Battery", using repair mode on a charger, no success to date.
On the bright side, also use the device when you go to buy a new battery. You'll be surprised at what you'd find.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I know rii, tyme to spend more money 🤷🏾🤣
If alternator is bad it will say?…….no output?
It depends on what part of the alternator that is defective.
Mode mana ini..
????
cranking test is not testing the starter motor, isnt just a test to see if the batter is good or not for starting.. it shouldnt have anything to do with the starter motor.
Thanks a lot. While you are correct that the cranking test in a way, is a test on the battery's performance, this tool's cranking test does test the starter motor. Battery voltage while cranking is an indication of starter function. See excerpt from the manual of the KW208 tool:
"Cranking test helps you analyze the starting motor including cranking voltage and the cranking time to check the starting motor works properly or not"
This independent resource also backs this up:
constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14050/css/Cranking-Voltage-Test-92.htm
I tested mine it says “good recharge “ what does this mean my battery is no good ? because I’m having issues with my car it will start in the morning then if I go shopping it will not start. Battery is strong all lights work etc then after 10 tries or so my car will start! what could be the problem ? i did a crank test and it said “ charging high “ any help would be appreciated since i’m tight on money
@CHB_98 "Good Recharge" means you have a good battery that is low on charge. That's understandable from the multiple cranks you said it requires to start the car. Was it a crank or charging test you did next? Either way, hard starting can be a bunch of things; vacuum leaks, stuck pcv valve, dirty MAF sensor, throttle body, defective cold start switch (Toyota) and many more. What car is it?
@@DIYAutoworksNG hi it’s a 09 gmc acadia , I did a cranking test and it said normal , I have recharged the battery hope the problem goes away I was thinking it maybe the starter ?
What resistance amount would tell you to get a new battery?
Ideally less than 5 Ohm. 5 - 10 Ohm is also acceptable.
Do you need to run the engine
Depends on the test your running. It's all explained in the video.