This is an excellent series on faux Mahogany, thank you so much! To make it a little easier on the users, make sure to include part numbers in your title. Thumbs up!!!
So talented... So grateful you would help an aspiring artist like myself, though the links you spoke of are not in the comments... regardless pleasure watching your skill
Great work I just had one question badger hair horse hair squirrel hair are there any vegan bristle brushes available for for faux painting. ? Thanks for the great videos learned a lot now I'm just going to practice practice on a benchtop thanks..
Is there any way to create that effect in real mahogany or figured wood in general where where you look at it you see darker highlights then you tilt the wood and you see lighter almost iridescent effect within the figuring. I restore old radios from the 1930s through the 50s many have magnificent veneers which are really expensive to buy now if the veneer is destroyed and still are not the quality of the veneers from 70 to 80 years ago. I appreciate your attention to detail but I don't see how this will trick a person that this is real wood unless they don't have a great eye. That said I think you are an artist and I mean no insult. I imagine this is the best way to create faux wood effects I have seen. I just notice things like how the figuring of real wood dances in the light when you tilt it. I have mastered woodgrain effects in miniature since I have for decades built ww1 plastic aircraft models which many had wooden propellors and fuselages. I use acrylic undercoat with artist oils with soft brushes as overcoat. Right now I am debating on a rare 1937 Zenith console I recently got which the veneer is trashed on the top as well as the burl side accents. The veneer to redo this costs alot but so do the brushes to duplicate your techniques . I just can't tell on this screen if it is worth it for me who, I feel I could duplicate your techniques with practice and the right tools vs. just buying veneer and doing it correctly. Any advice?
My cabinet and furniture instructor always said " buy the best tools available and they will serve you well each time you use them".Great vid!!
Looks great so far, it's great that you explain what all the different brush properties are and how to use them.
This is an excellent series on faux Mahogany, thank you so much! To make it a little easier on the users, make sure to include part numbers in your title. Thumbs up!!!
so what you are doing is showing how a great artist would paint a beautiful picture of a slab of wood.
Masterful, passionate, wonderful!
So talented... So grateful you would help an aspiring artist like myself, though the links you spoke of are not in the comments... regardless pleasure watching your skill
Great work I just had one question badger hair horse hair squirrel hair are there any vegan bristle brushes available for for faux painting. ? Thanks for the great videos learned a lot now I'm just going to practice practice on a benchtop thanks..
Hi, what is the formula for the glaze? I have watched and rewatched this video, and checked for the formula in the description, but I can’t find it.
Beautiful
Respect Mon!
Nic
Where are you from? You sound like you are from New Orleans. I grew up here and the accent sounds familiar.
Is there any way to create that effect in real mahogany or figured wood in general where where you look at it you see darker highlights then you tilt the wood and you see lighter almost iridescent effect within the figuring. I restore old radios from the 1930s through the 50s many have magnificent veneers which are really expensive to buy now if the veneer is destroyed and still are not the quality of the veneers from 70 to 80 years ago. I appreciate your attention to detail but I don't see how this will trick a person that this is real wood unless they don't have a great eye. That said I think you are an artist and I mean no insult. I imagine this is the best way to create faux wood effects I have seen. I just notice things like how the figuring of real wood dances in the light when you tilt it. I have mastered woodgrain effects in miniature since I have for decades built ww1 plastic aircraft models which many had wooden propellors and fuselages. I use acrylic undercoat with artist oils with soft brushes as overcoat. Right now I am debating on a rare 1937 Zenith console I recently got which the veneer is trashed on the top as well as the burl side accents. The veneer to redo this costs alot but so do the brushes to duplicate your techniques . I just can't tell on this screen if it is worth it for me who, I feel I could duplicate your techniques with practice and the right tools vs. just buying veneer and doing it correctly. Any advice?
Thanks U for sh