Table Saw Blades for Woodworking: The Ultimate Guide
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- Rob Cosman tells you what table saw blades you really need.
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If you liked this video, check out Rob's top table saw safety tips : ua-cam.com/video/66bdGr01NCE/v-deo.html
The chisel explanation is outstanding.
I did not take into consideration that switching to a thin kerf blade meant that I needed a thin kerf riving knife and a zero-clearance throat plate (preferably). All set now. By the way, I purchased one of your shooting boards and my accuracy has vastly improved. Thanks, Rob.
Great info.
And is that a mullet you’re rockin’ ?
Party on !
as a retired furniture maker i have to agree with your choices. i see so many people wasting money on branding. for me i only ever use rip, crosscut and a set of dado blades. the one thing i would add to this is cleaning your blades regularly to extend their life and give a cleaner cut.
So true. Cleaning in a bucket with a few spritz of purple Super Clean (or similar) is the best way to extend life. Combo blades really is bad for everything. That said, I just do most of my cuts with a 7 1/4 rip. Cheap to buy and replace, low noise and vibrations, low wear and tare on machine.
Yes! Especially working with pine and plywood. I didn't listen to myself recently, and was in a hurry. I ripped 6 sheets of 1/2" plywood into strips for a garage wall. Then I broke down 3/4 for cabinets. By the 2nd sheet of 3/4, it was bogging and some jagged surface veneer.
I looked closely at the teeth and could see a dark coating. I presume from the glue in the plywood.
Thank you for continuing to make this type of videos, where the idea is to teach and improve, greetings from Mexico
Glad you like them! You keep watching and we will keep filming. Where in Mexico are you?
I use the Freud thin kerf rip blade on my table saw - works like a champ. Great bang for the buck. Makes a difference on my saw as it's slightly under-powered.
Rob, I like Freud blades and own several. My preference, though, is Forrest combination and crosscut blades and Dimar rip and dado blades. The Forrest blades, when sharp, produce a tear-out free crosscut and a rip cut that does not require jointing before gluing. The Freud blades only come into use when the Forrest and Dimar blades are in the sharpen pile…
The only blade I have added to the rip and crosscut is a dedicated plywood blade. I was getting to much tear out on plywood. Love the thin kerf freuds!!!
Thought Rob was going to cover this.
Totally agree Rob. I use almost exclusively the Freud blades. Both the standard blade and the industrial blade.
I have a friend who hates to change saw blades! He bought a second table saw so he didn’t have to change blades. He has more money than sense. And if he reads this comment he will know I’m talking about him! 😊 I’ve told him this before…
Thank you Rob.
Another useful video Rob and team.
Thanks' for watching
I recently upgraded from a Dewalt job site saw to a 3hp sawstop pcs. I erroneously believed a better saw meant no saw marks and I could not use a thin rip blade. I adjusted the blade to the miter bar down to .001” and used your paper shim trick for the fence. I got a full kerf CMT combination blade and was getting bad saw marks. I’m watching the video before bed but after seeing your recommendations I totally forgot I already have these saw blades. I can’t wait to try them on the sawstop tomorrow.
I’m still a bit new to woodworking and was wondering what hand plane is recommended to remove saw blade marks. I’ll check out your other videos to see if this is mentioned. Thanks for the straight to the point video.
I’m also a big fan of thin kerf blades :). I’d love to hear your thoughts on dado stack sets!
Great description of rip and cross cut, thank you.
Very educational video thanks for sharing
I like the Freud blades, but I tend to run a combo blade 90% of the time, and only switch to the rip blade when I have some 8/4 stuff to deal with.
I have always subscribed to the concept of using the proper kind of blade for the job at hand.
I just found your channel. Love the way your explain and teach.
Excellent tutorial, thank you Rob 👌👍
Thank you for watching
Great info thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Totally agree with your selection. Been using Freud blades for 30+ years.
Thank you for saving me money as I am about to buy my first table saw and I now know which blades to buy.
Very succinct, thank you from a beginner woodworker.
I appreciate your experienced advice always, Rob. I've settled on 3 blades (all Freud thin kerf): flat-top combination for routine use, crosscutting & grooves/dadoes; "glue ready" rip; and, a fine tooth plywood/melamine blade.
You use fine tooth blade on all plywood, regardless of thickness?
@@keithmarlowe5569 Diablo 50 tooth combination blade most used (flat carbide tips leave smooth grooves & dados), Freud 30 tooth glue line rip blade for joining, Freud 80 tooth plywood/melamine blade. All thin kerf for my contractor saw.
Very good information for up and coming woodworkers, 2 blades are all you really need.
I have way too many.
Don't we all? and lets not talk about how many hand saws I have !
thanks
Like other commentors, I have tried several brands of blades. In nearly 50 years, I never saw major differences between the cut quality of higher end blades. There were some that may have lasted longer than others. What I did learn, is that better (more expensive) blades can be re-sharpened several times. This greatly off-sets the initial higher price, So, after being re-sharpened many times, the overall cost, over the life of the blade, is very reasonable. I recommend Ridge Carbide for sharpening. They "true up" and balance the plate as well as sharpening. Also, they engrave your name on the plate. Cool. Thanks for another informative video.
Спасибо!
I bought Freud on your recommendation for my first table saw blades and they've been great. I got the thin kerf 60T crosscut, thin kerf 24T rip, and a dado set. I've cut a decent amount with both and they've been awesome. The only niggling problem i'm having is the rip will chip out a little bit on one side when cutting splines on mitered boxes with hard or brittle woods. The piece that chips out is just a little too deep to sand out (thin material for small dainty boxes) so some glue and sawdust "fixes" it.
I primarily use hardwoods and I’ve been using the thin kerf Freud 24T rip and thin kerf 60T crosscut blades for 6 or 7 years now. No need to buy anything else or more expensive brands either. I agree with Rob.
I totally agree. I thought I was missing something by not buying expensive blades, actually I’m not missing a thing. I only have one 1/8” flat top blade for small dados for boxes.
Thanks Rob. I like Freud blades too but I don’t have experience with very many others
I think they are the best blade for th ebuck out there. I buy nothing else.
I know Rob is not keen on combination blades, but I find the Freud Premier Fusion 40-tooth combo blade to work very well for both ripping and cross-cutting. It's available in both thin kerf and full kerf versions. Not too expensive either.
Jake bought one of those for us to try.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will be interested to hear your opinion.
I also use Freud blades and very happy with it. Btw: congrats to 300k 😊🎉
I think Freuds are the way to go. Thanks for noticing the 300k. And thanks for being a part of thst
I appreciate your advice Rob but really, it’s all opinion at the end of the day with some obvious empirical trends. However, you would think any intelligent woodworking community surely understands the marketing strategies that are designed around brand recognition, but sadly after decades of saw use and now internet viewing I see things haven’t changed. One of the joys of woodworking for me is independent thought, self agency and the keen ability to determine what works best in my shop for me. I do buy Freud Industrial saw blades because unlike some brands, they go on sale frequently where I live. I also tend to buy blades from my local sharpening service provider. They sell industrial quality lines and also really know which brands have commercial quality carbide/exemplary brazing compared to ones that “sharpen like butter being so soft” as they see multiple brands daily. Personally I don’t mind changing blades - not a big deal. Really! I have soft metal blades, Teflon cross cut, thin kerf industrial rip (love it), a combination blade (kept in saw by default, use it on plywood a lot), a melamine blade, etc. Add a high quality stacking dado set, and I’m golden. I have an overhead dc blade guard that swings out of the way for sled use, and use low pizza baking plates with an industrial soaking cleaner that helps keep things from gumming up.
Another advantage to thin kerf blades is reduced sawdust
I always swap in a rip blade when cutting with the grain, 24 teeth is perfect. I have a 12" 24 tooth carbide ripping blade I use for ripping really thick stock. I have a fine blade that I use for plywood and an atb blade for general cutting. Worth swapping them out.
I bought that Freud ripping blade 6 months ago and I had absolutely zero idea how easy ripping hardwoods could be! I have one other blade I use a lot and I ONLY use it for cutting miter splines. It's a Craftsman flat-top combo blade from a radial arm saw. It's just a little thicker than 1/8", allowing more substantial splines. $8 well spent! Thank you for all the great videos!
Sounds like you have the right blades for the right job!
Excellent advice, but the reason I'm commenting is the 212th Field Artillery patch on your apron. I was assigned to them in 1985. It's not a common patch to see.
Interesting take on preference for Freud blades. I use their crosscut blades on my miter saw and their thin kerf rip on table saw for ripping, but much prefer my Ridge Carbide thin kerf combo as a general-purpose blade which keeps its edge longer and with more carbide for repeated sharpening than the Freud blades, even with regular cleaning in my opinion.
What blade do you recomend for cutting splines for picture frames? I'm using a freshly sharpened 'flat grind 24 tooth rip blade' but still am getting tear out. .... Thanks also for all your great woodworking lessons on UA-cam. I've learned so much through your videos over these past few of years.
Rob, thanks for all your content. You always tends to get to the meat to the matter with little fat.
Been looking for the thin curve for rib blade with 24 teeth but cannot seem to find 1 without shoulders.
Any chance you might add a comment about the actual item number, it would be greatly helpful.
One of the other comments referenced your long hair. Have you considered donating your hair to make a wig for a child with cancer??
Makes something beautiful and allows you to protest at the same time.
Luckily you are 1 of those individuals with a full head of hair unlike those of us with high foreheads!
I have the Freud rip blade, and it does cut quick, but I find that the tearout on the bottom is always so bad that I never end up doing final rips with it. This may be hinted at when you say no rip is glue line ready and you take it to the jointer, but I usually end up using something like a 50 tooth for final rips to get a cleaner bottom.
For sheet goods like melamine faced particle board or hardwood plywood I use a 7-1/4 60 tooth thin kerf Diablo finishing blade model D0760 in my 10” table saw. I get great cuts with no tear out or chipping.
I’ll put my Forrest Duraline Hi-A/T against your Diablo all day long. Yah, it may cost 4x your Diablo but the cost of destroying one cut on the plywood I’m using far outweighs the difference…
I have travelled a similar journey for the same time period. I have accumulated 20 or so blades in my rack including some Forrest, CMT, Amana, SawStop, Delta, etc. My goto daily driver is the Freud Glue Line Rip and Cross Cut. I really only ever use the other blades when I need to cut dirty wood or my primary blades are out being sharpened. I do like my Forrest Dado set better than the old Amana I sold with my old Delta saw. I also have a dedicated Amana Flat top which I feel cuts cleaner on the top surface than my Freud GLR. I do not really like the thin kerf blades that much as I have too many regular thickness blades and so all my zero clearance inserts are set for 1/8" which means I do not get as clean of a cut using the thin kerf. Of course that point is mostly moot since I never glue up off the table saw and I have 5 HP saw (just too lazy to add another zero clearance insert). But I will use a thin kerf when I really need to save wood.
I bought a thin curf blade (a Diablo blade, also agree they make great blades especially for the price) for my table saw but somewhat short sightedly realised after a few cuts that I had made a serious error. The riving knife on my saw was too thick for the thin kerf blade and after the first piece got stuck on it I had to swap back to the thicker kerf blade. Replacing the riving knife on my saw is not a simple matter and I could make another riving knife and make sure it is the correct thickness etc but just beware when buying a thin kerf blade about this.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. This is a good question.
Been sticking with the Freud Industrial blades for few years now and they haven't let me down. Have a thin kerf cross cut, thin kerf glue line rip and a standard heavy duty rip with a flat top for joinery. Been wanting to try a FSTool because I hear they are great and made in Canada, but haven't been able to find local as easily as the Freuds.
I have not heard anything about FesTool blades. I will take a look
We use FS tools saws where I work in Toronto. They make great saw blades but the focus of their business is most definitely industrial, so not surprised you have a hard time finding them.
If you have 3hp , might as well get full kerf. Rob, on the freud rip blade, doesnt that have "shoulders" also? Thanks.
Hi Rob, just found this video and loved it. Can you recommend companies that can sharpen carbide blades?
Can you use the thin kerf on a sawstop with the riving knife?
@robcosmanwoodworking Great video and just in time.
I'm trying to improve the quality of my tools in my home, I got some amana tools blades and they seems to perform really well (I have a crosscut one and a combination one, they mistakenly send me that one instead of the ripping and I was lazy to replace) but I just ordered a ripping one, have you tried the amana ones? both are around the same price point would you recommend me to switch (literally i just ordered it so I can still cancel the order and replace it with a freud)
Thank you very much
I agree, have found the Freud thin kerf the best. And keep the hair, it suits you!
Oh no....... I am old school so I like the shorter hair. 😁
@@robr9905 What ever makes you feel good and makes you attractive to your bride!
@@williamjones914- good point
Any advice on which blade is best for mitre cuts on picture frames?
I've been using a cross cut blade but get chip out on the back of moldings. Thin kerf/ hi tooth count would be best?
Sometimes, when I want to squeeze every last ounce out of thinner, more expensive stock, I’ll use 7-1/4” 40 tooth circular saw blade on my table saw. Very thin kerf and as an added bonus, very quiet.
Interesting. Never thought of doing that. I can see how it would work
I'm curious how you feel about the Freud made Diablo blades sold at Home Depot. I'm not exactly certain what the difference is between an actual Freud and a Diablo; maybe the thickness of the carbide tooth?
I have a chop saw for cross cutting, 80 tooth ATB, and saw stop for ripping, 60 tooth combination. I am encouraged to up my game with a thin kerf rip blade thanks to your suggestion. Question for you is: does any of this change if I am cutting plywood? Thank you Rob.
Chop saw is ok for rough length, but nowhere near as accurate as a sled on a tablesaw, hence why the 80t crosscut blade. I prefer to use the crosscut for plywood, reduces tear out.
When do we get to hear all about the new cosman hand plane?
Can you do a video and show how to sharpen them?
Also do you think you will ever go back to building a project on your livestream? I like the question and answer but loved the start to finish builds.
The way to sharpen them is send them out to get sharpened. Unlike handsaws there are lots of places tgat will do it. Besides most teeth are carbon and very hard so you need special sharpening gear. As for the builds the issue is it must be a super simple build that can be done in 2 hours, and that is more suited to our online workshop
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you for taking the time to reply. I will look for a place in my area to get this done.
Re-confirms what I'd already learned, but the extra-expense lesson way:
One thin 24 Tooth Freud Rip blade and one thin 80 Tooth Freud crosscut blade are all I need.
So I've got several "other" blades gathering dust on my wall. The combo that came with my SawStop is "OK" for when I really don't care that much about the niceness of the cut. Which isn't often.
Sounds like you went down the same road as I did...Sorry we didn't film this sooner so we could save you some money
"The Art of Racing in the Rain"
👌👌👌
Forrest has made 3/32" blades since at least 1990.
Cheers,
Alan Tomlinson
I find them a bit spendy compared to freud and harder to order
Any recommendation for something to cut plywood/MDF/melamine and the like? My guess would be to use the crosscut, but just wondering if you have had better result with something else.
MDF is very hard on blades. I would use a special blade with a very high tooth count.
Cheers,
Alan Tomlinson
You the man Rob! Looking real distinguished with that hair getting that long!
Great video as always, Rob. What are your thoughts on the riving knife as related to the thickness of the saw kerf. Thin kerf blades are generally thinner than my riving knives (I have a tall one and a low profile one for my particular saw--both the same thickness). I haven't used thin kerf blades for this reason, apart for some special cases.
I have a Delta 10 inch cabinet saw, and was able to order a thin-kerf riving knife for about $65 off ebay. It appears they can also be obtained for other brands of saw.
I have the same question. Since I got my Sawstop I generally don't use my thin kerf blades for this reason. When I have tried, the wood binds. I haven't seen a thinner riving knife for the Sawstop.
SawStop actually sells a thin kerf riving knife, I would recommend it if you’re using thin kerf blades.
I cannot find a link to your last 10 newsletters!
I have a Freud thin kerf rip and a glue-line rip, also a WoodWorker ll combo, and assorted cross cut blades. By far the Freud rip blades get the majority of work, with the WoodWorker ll handling the majority of cross cuts.
I just recently had the glue line rip blade sharpened - ~$30, and see no reason to own and use any other blades.
Another awesome video (as always from you). You did make an inaccurate statement about the saw stop though. Metal doesn’t trigger the flesh sensing brake technology. The electrical current from any part of our body is what triggers the brake to be activated. You can demonstrate my point by putting a nail or screw in a board. Then hold the board with your hand and touch the saw stop blade with just the nail/screw and you’ll see that the red flashing light does NOT come on. Of course this is done with the saw on but NOT with the blade spinning. Now with the saw stop on and the blade NOT spinning touch the blade with your finger and you’ll see the red light come on
I had my sawstop triggered when I cut thru a board with a couple of 18 ga Brad nail. So for sure metal will trigger it
I disagree and have had my saw trigger and destroy a brand new blade as a result
Newbie question. If you were to put on a thin kerf blade would you need to change the riving knife as well?
That depends on your table saw. Since there is no standardization in riving knife thickness you need to check your owners manual for that answer. If you have a cabinet grade sawstop like I use sawstop’s riving knife works on both think snd thick “regular” thick blades
Thanks Rob. I use a Ridgid 4513 contractor saw. I'll check the manual out.
Question: If I want to cut a dadao on my table- or Mitre-saw, would a combination blade be a good choice? I figure the inserted flat teeth would cut away the triangle, left behind by a cross-cut blade. And no: my saws don't acept a dado-stack.
The angled blades still leave a small groove on the sides of the cut and are deeper than the flat teeth (that's the scoring Rob mentioned). A combo blade can be used for dados of course but it's not necessarily a good choice as it won't produce a smooth, flat surface like a flat tooth ripping blade. On the plus side, a rough surface on the bottom of the dado is a great excuse to pick up a router plane! :)
How important is the grind of the teeth? Any one preferred for best cuts? Thanks
I do not think the grind is particularly important, except it is nice to have a rip that has all flat tops so you get relatively smooth bottoms when hogging out dados or other cuts
Does the coating on the Freud blade interfere with the saw stop?
Not that I know of.
Thin kerf blades work great. Just remember you need a think kerf riving knife to go with it. A regular kerf riving knife will be too thick for the kerf that the blade makes in the wood to pass.
Not all but you do need to check. The sawstop riving knife is designed to work on both
Rob, Living far outside of North America, I am having difficulty getting information. Does your Sawstop saw require a Sawstop blade to maintain 1) function, and 2) warranty? Not looking for a 'legally binding answer', just an insight based on your experience. Thanks in advance.
No, they do not require a specific brand to maintain a warranty/function.
Another time when I go to bed less stupid (it’s a French saying). Thank you for sharing 🌞
Lets less, more enlightened! !!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking 😊🌞
Rob is giving off major John Fogerty vibes!
I’m just one guy but I will say that the Forrest Signature Line Chopmaster 12”, 90 tooth miter saw blade is inferior to the Freud Ultimate 96 tooth miter saw blade and at almost double the price. I also bought into the hype of Forrest Woodworker II all-purpose blades for my table saw and again was less impressed with the cut for the additional expense over a comparable Freud blade. I too have made the switch to the Freud thin kerf blades and find them to be very good and equally as durable. They aren’t as quick for widening a cut into a groove or dado as the standard kerf but that isn’t an operation that I often do. I own about 10 saw blades for my table saw and many I no longer use.
Yup you and I traveled similar roads to get to the same place!!!!
I know Rob doesn't do a lot of work with sheet goods, especially melamine. But if its something you're cutting a lot of and the quality of your cut matters look into Triple Chip Blades.
I agree. I have a dedicated Freud Melamine blade that only gets used for Melamine. Occasionally I’ll come across a piece of melamine that has a fragile edge and I have to score it then cut it. It seems to be one particular type of melamine that happens with. Every other kind I’ve used it works great on.
I disagree, I make my living on the table saw and the FS Tool XL4000 is by far a superior blade, no doubt about it. I do use the Freud too but it tends to flex when just a small cut is made so if I'm breaking out kitchen cabinets it the XL 4000 for sure.
Hey everyone.. it's Mr. Mullet Man 😅😅😅
I am leading the mullet come back
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ..and a great job at that
The correct answer is yes.
All of them.
DOnt be like me....You just need two, actually I could throw in a thrird blade which would be a regular thickness rip just for those times you are cutting thicker than 2" wood
Rip, combo, and a sacrificial blade for uncommon materials.
Ya no, I'm getting used to seeing you with long hair. Kinda suits you
Well...I certainly wouldn't call this an ultimate guide....
I think it is as I have given you the only blades you really need. I believe me, I have spent a lifetime and tons of money figuring this out. So to me that's an Ultimate guide of saw blades. Sorry you do not think so.
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingI didn't say it wasent very valuable information.
But an ultimate guide would be deep diving into all blade types, manufactures, configurations, features, ect.
Also. That would be really awesome to get your insight on all that.
Kinda like an ultimate guide type video ;P
@@BentusiProgenitorsbe boring as well! Info overload.
Then your smooth small brain wouldn't have to watch the video and you could watch this one. The non ultimate guide.
Great vid Rob. but i'm sticking with CMT. Great if not better than your fraud blades!!!!!! In my opinion
Go with what you know and like
Ok Rob. You are the master and my idol. But. I must be honest.
1. Your hair has gone from joke to cringe. Please dont bruce jenner on us.
2. Your new intro is on the same cringe level. Its just done poorly. Its just my opinion.
Sorry i had to. Much love and thanks for all the free content for all woodworkers worldwide.
No worries! I own a small strip mall, one of my tenants went out of business due to the last Govt mandated shutdown. Only small businesses were targeted, this one was a hair salon where I got my hair cut. The long hair is part of my larger protest against government overreach, hair goes when “Turdeau ” goes, I can’t wait!!
Ahhh, I had no idea. Sorry.
Turdeau😂 has been so damaging to your country. Klaus' young noble leader. Your government has been hijacked.
The fact that they froze truckers bank accounts is scary.
I hope Canadians get there country back.
Sorry for being insensitive, without understanding.
Please dont stop your content.
Appreciate it.
Too much talk wasting time
Find other videos to watch and quit wasting my time dufus!