*Brand New Lineup of Full and Thin Kerf CMT Chrome Saw Blades - use code KMT10CMT for extra 10% off* kmtools.com/collections/cmt-saw-blades *Blade Cleaner* - shop.kmtools.com/bladecleaner *Comprehensive Guide to Saw Blades Blog* - shop.kmtools.com/bladesblog *Table Saw Blade Sharpening Video* ua-cam.com/video/OSXacCeEZu4/v-deo.html *How to Tell When Your Saw Blade is Dull* ua-cam.com/video/ItaxJMBmsOg/v-deo.html *Video Refresher* *Thin Kerf VS Full Kerf* Thin is better if your saw has less than 1.5 HP. If your saw is more than 1.5hp get the Full Kerf. A Thin Kerf blade is great to have in the arsenal regardless for those times you want to save as much wood as possible. Also great for preserving exposed joinery and grain match when removing box lids. *Ripping Blade 24T* The best for rip cuts and terrible at crosscuts. My most used blades. *Crosscut Blade 60T/80T* Fantastic for crosscuts but terrible at rip cuts. Low or negative rake makes them great in the Miter Saw or for fine cuts in plywood. *General Purpose Blade 40T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts in wood UNDER 1.25”. Great for shop jigs and plywood. *Combination Blade 50T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts up to 2 and 1/8” inch thick. Not good for plywood though. *Dado Stack* Best for dados, grooves, rabbets, half laps, bridal joints, and hogging out material when you’re not cutting all the way through. Central City Tool Supply Saw Sharpening (in Santa Maria, CA) bit.ly/CentralCitySawSharpening
You mention less than and more than 1.5hp. However what if your table saw is *equal to* 1.5 hp (as mine is 😂). In my search on the web it seems to be up in the air and have even seen some rather large debates. What is your opinion?
I'm still undecided on which to get...I can only afford one right now...sigh. @KatzMosesTools Tamar 3x3 customs speaks highly of you so you are part of my research. I see blades with slice or openings every so far along...it's my understanding it's to help cool the blade. If I have a blade with none...is it safe to make my own thin spaces or cut outs? If so is there a particular shape or size and how deep would I go? I inherited a bunch of blades from an uncle when he passed away.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Nice video. When I started with my JSS Pro (1.5HP) from SawStop, I purchased several quality thin kerf blades just to discover that they caused pinching between the riving knife and the fence, so I switched over full kerf blades (CMT Chrome & Amana Electro-Blu) and all my problems went away.
This video made me realize that I'm stupidly using a combination blade on my miter saw. I just ordered a nice CMT crosscut blade from your shop. Thanks!
Wow! I agree with the others, that slow motion footage is amazing and very helpful in understanding how the various teeth do their work. That was also a lot of information delivered rapidly…may I humbly suggest a summary chart(s) that could be screen shot for reference appearing at the end of the video? Thank you.
Jonathan... Great content, excellent teaching skills. I was wondering if you could suggest an overall / all around CMT ripping blade for my 2hp DeWalt contractor table saw (DWS7491) , and an overall / all around cross cut CMT blade for my 12" DeWalt miter saw? Just want to start my collection and need your help. Thank you! Keep up the good work.
Welcome back, and glad you're feeling better. This is great content, and fascinating slow motion video, but you're presenting it way too fast. As a former professional trainer, you have to take a second or two to let the content sink in before moving on. Remember, new people are drinking from the fire hose.
I hear you but for every one of these comments, I get 5 "get to the point" comments. Lots of info to get through and 2 things are true of YT videos: 2 part and very long videos do poorly but when I talk in a clear and concise manner (like this) a majority of people seem to enjoy them more. We have a great in depth blog on our website that goes into even finer detail if you want to check out more and read at your own pace..
I currently have the 8 1/4in dewalt table saw. Could you recommend where I can get some decent 8 1/4in table saw blades. Eventually I will upgrade to the 10'' table saw. Thanks
Quick question for you since I can’t seem to find it anywhere else… how do you cut a Dado in 12mm BB? The CMT precision set will dial it down to 1/32nds, but 12mm is ~15.16/32nds, leaving 15/32 too tight and 16/32 too sloppy loose
@@katzmosestools Thanks! I was hoping there might have been some metric shims to make it easier to dial it in, ie, set it up for 15/32, and then just add in the shim for the .16 difference which is about .0037", and if you wanted 8mm, use the 5/16, then add a .00246" shim for the difference. I've only personally worked w/ imperial, but was looking to start doing some drawer boxes and nice cabinet work and BB was metric. Been doing a ton of research on blades for my new saw (A Sawstop... thank you for your slowmo video on that too!). Hope you get some of the ones you have in your shop back in stock!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Watching the slow mo video I noticed how all the teeth aren't cutting, do pro sharpening shops grind the outer diameter of the blade to get all the teeth even before they sharpen the teeth? No point in having 90 teeth if only 30 are actually contacting the wood.
Since you are using a SawStop, it would be good to mention that they neither recommend 1) a thin kerf blade or 2) blades with anti kickback teeth in them. The thin blades presumably may fracture when the brake kicks in. Likewise the anti kickback may allow the blade to make a few more degrees of rotation before it digs into the brake. In reality they are probably both fine and we are splitting hairs, but if you loose a finger or an eye, a lawyer, and your wife, will tell you that you should have RTFM
These are the blades I carry in my store so its what we would obviously use to demonstrate what types of blades there are. We only bring tools I strongly believe in to my store so I'm proud to promote them and in no way was I paid to do so. In fact its quite the opposite. I have to purchase the blades first to be able to sell them. These companies have huge minimum intial orders so I had to put my money where my mouth is. If you go back in any video I have for the last 2 or 3 years these are the blades I have used and reccomend exclusively. Hard to see the small amount of pitch buildup on the teeth and I had an old Forrest 2 with tons of pitch build up from the rubbing in the kickback video. So I just grabbed that to demonstrate the cleaning. Was not intentional. I obsess over what I reccomend to you guys and gals. We test and test and work hard to make informed decisions. I take my commitment to offer quality high value product reccomendations seriously. I assure you I will always reccomend what I believe is the best value without outside corporate influence on my decisions.
@@katzmosestools I understand your running a business/brand #1 and don’t wanna cause you stress after a recent surgery. I understand and appreciate the information. But no one on UA-cam is doing anything for free (this doesn’t mean I’m implying anything more). Otherwise most people wouldn’t do it. I don’t want you to take my comment as being rude or obnoxious, as I’m not. It’s just my opinion. I get there’s good and bad. Here my bad recently. Hell I just had my FESTOOL CT48 AC burn (electronics) up with less than 12 hours total run time an set off a clients fire alarms etc. Sent it in for repair and get it back with more damage than it’s ever had. So now I have to jump threw more hoops to get this resolved. But I will say in my experiences and even my recent bad one. That no company is perfect an that some tools should be avoided for good or bad reasons. All I’m saying is it’s great to share and help each other out as human beings and woodworkers for the greater good for all to benefit. But things don’t always work out like that. I feel the most practical thing in my experiences to tell anywood worker to buy only what it is that you really need when that time comes. Otherwise your chasing your tail and not making any saw dust. Hope this response finds you well. An I have no grudge or personal vendetta just my opinion and comment.
@@katzmosestools Jonathan, I want provide another perspective and that is that I sincerely appreciate what you do and how you share information with those of us who want to grow our woodworking skills and tool collections. Until your first saw blade video, I was blissfully (isn't ignorance wonderful) using a $38 Diablo 50T combination blade on my table saw. So far as I knew it was working just fine. Sure, I had seen other videos touting expensive blades, but I simply couldn't justify it. Then I saw your first video. I even commented/communicated with you about your opinion regarding using full kerf blades on my saw. After that I made the jump and got the 24T Rip and 60T Crosscut CMT Chrome blades, both for less than a single Forrest blade. Are they as good, I don't know, probably not, but you know what...? They ARE providing me great cuts at a great value and absolutely better than what I was using before. If it wasn't for you and the information you have shared, I would still be using that Diablo, and I'm pretty sure It would not have been happy rip cutting some 8/4 Hickory (heating up, warping, burning, yikes) like that 24T rip blade did. I am a hobbyist woodworker. I have no doubt that the money I spent on these blades was money well spent and that they make my Delta contractor table saw a better tool and me a better woodworker. I will need to have my dream SawStop 3HP cabinet saw before I feel like I need to even consider spending more on blades. Thank you again and keep up the good work and keep sharing the knowledge.
You know this just seems like a long commercial where you are trying to just sell us your stuff. It may be good but it is just kind of repulsive to watch.
Every business is trying to sell you their stuff. It is up to you, the consumer, to decide what you purchase. At least here you are getting knowledge and value up front with no strings attached. Can’t say that for brick and mortar or most online retailers.
I cannot emphasize enough how much you have helped my woodworking. I love the down to earth teaching style. I have been building things for two decades, but have just now bought wood glue. I have always used screws for everything - but to be fair, I was always framing. Not wood working. You have given me the confidence, and knowledge to build my first real piece of furniture. I love the channel, love the content.
Now do the same video with bandsaw blades- different sets, tpi, width, tensions, etc. That's one episode. Then do the same with jigsaw blades. Another episode. Finally do the same with scroll saw blades. Another episode. You already understand pictures (high speed video) are worth a thousand words....
One of the writers for the old American Woodworker, when asked how do you know when your blade is dull commented, "if you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator."
I’ve actually started using 7-1/4” blades on my table saw full time, until I need to make a full depth cut. But 99% of the time I’m cutting 1-1/2” or less thick material and the 7-1/4” are cheaper, thinner, easier on my saw, and quieter. And cheaper 😁
I bought one of the cmt blades you recommended from the video back when you went to the blade sharpening place. I previously had a Freud cause I thought it was close enough to good. The difference in cut quality is more than night an day. I just can't even believe how much better of a blade it is. It feels like my saw gained an extra HP or something. The cuts feel less dangerous cause I'm not pushing the cut through, it's just gliding through instead. It is seriously a big deal everyone should invest in.
I wish I could pin this comment. It's the absolute truth! Thanks for sharing my friend! Side note: the brother who designed the Freud blades started the CMT line just 4 years ago. Since coming on board he's been awarded more than 10 patents for blade technology. He's done all the things Freud wouldn't let him do because they wanted to keep costs down.
Great info as usual. I need to watch again and take notes. I've got an old (80's vintage) Craftsman 12" direct drive table saw and have always been torn about buying 10" blades for it, feeling like I'm cheating myself out of the extra radius. Thinking rationally about it, the only time it would make a noticable difference is if I'm trying to resaw or otherwise cut through extra thick materials, so I probably shouldn't feel bad about using the smaller blades. Do you have any thoughts about this? Is there anything else I might be missing out on by using blades smaller than the capacity of the same? Thanks for sharing!
Great video on multiple fronts. - lots of good info! - great slow mo, besides being cool, it really helps understanding what our blades are doing. I agree on the premium blade being a consideration. I have both a CMT crosscut (IIRC at your suggestion a while ago) and a Ridge Carbide rip blade. Love them.
Awesome video. One thing to add though, the difference in the plate thickness on the thin kerf VS thick kerf and how that can influence stability of the blade. Forrest, for instance, recommends to use a blade stiffener on the thin kerf because they can sometimes flutter due to that thinner plate.
In my personal experience a blade stiffener severely limits your cutting depth and doesn't have a noticeable effect in my opinion. I could certainly see a use for it in some harder woods but I used one for about a year because someone recommended it and then once I took it off I never went back.
@@katzmosestools I definitely agree with it limiting the depth of cut. I have one and never use it, but I also only use full kerf blades since I have the Industrial Sawstop. It'd be interesting to see if there are situations where you could cause the flutter and compare one with and one without the stiffener. Maybe it is just snake oil, idk
I think this video is going to cost me a lot of money 🤫 I’ve understood different blade types before but never really respected it enough to ever using anything but a combination blade, except when I’m using thin veneer plywood. I’ve used TSP to clean my Blade before and it took off all the markings, so it probably would do the same for the slick coating as well. Thanks for this in-depth look at this, Jonathan.
I just purchased a week ago the CMT full kurf Gen purpose and the thin kurf combo from your and your store is extremely easy to follow and understand what each blade is used for. Extremely satisfied, definitely recommend you to everyone for blades.
Great video! For ripping ¾" plywood at a 45 degree angle, wanting a clean cut but avoid burning, what would you suggest? (I am getting burning with my 40 tooth ATB blade from Ridge Carbide)
Just started doing simple Shaker cabinet doors and you've already helped out a bunch. I watched your tips for new woodworkers and learned why my tongue and grooves weren't consistent from entry side to the exit side. Doing them in 3 passes removing a little material at a time made gave me perfect results. No more hogging for me!
Glad to see you are doing well, been awhile, me too, changing gears at this point, come with age I suppose. I'll be checking out you shop, perhaps I could use a new blade or two for the table saw, the miter has gotten most of the new blades of late, but in changing gears, the table saw will need a new set, plus with be researching your collection of blafe and bit sharpening job shops! Safety first, last, and in between, provides for happy fabrications! PS. Well damn the bad luck, guess I have to make a 150 mile round trip you're sold out of the blades I like to use! ...maybe next time!
Very disappointing, this was a sales infomercial, the tech delivery was way too quick. This is surprising as I am normally frustrated with presenters who deliver their material at an impossible slow rate. But Jonathan put too much in too little with one purpose, to sell CMT products. Perhaps with more attention to delivery of useful information the blatant sales pitch would have been more acceptable.
Excellent presentation! Well presented, a few frames of slow motion conveys more information and knowledge than a half hour of verbal explanation. If other power tools presentations use this format and level of research into the subject at hand you may set a high bar for others to achieve and likely raise the level of an entire industry.
Ive been framing for 25 years and never really put much thought into blades other than what i thought was thin kerf is best ive been using a Diablo 24 tooth for years now but i just bought a 60 tooth saw blade for some architectural concrete forming ive been doing and i love it so im here to learn what blades are best for what.
We need a sawblade brand shootout like the sandpaper test! It would hard to do, but I know you could do an awesome job at it. Go all out and put the winner in your store 😝
Great video Jonathan. Lots of great information for us. I wish I could hear as fast as you talk, though. I will need to watch this video about three more times to feel like I got everything. Thanks for sharing it. I'm a fan of CMT blades and will be using then exclusively from now on.
I don't understand how you appear so much in person and you don't let that good filming of the wood cuts be seen clearly. I tried to pay attention and over and over again you appeared talking. Better in off a little more?. Good idea and effort, in any case.
Not a comment but a table saw question. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw with a right tilting blade. Is it safe to cut a 60 degree angle with the fence on the right side of the blade.
"... the shims come in at anything from very very thin to a little bit thicker..." - Probably my favourite sentence in the whole video. You've got a great presentation style Jonathan it its just how I would describe such things. Love it.
Dude that is some awesome slow motion footage, lovin it. I learn so much here. I had no idea the cmt blades were that affordable, might have to pick some up when I order my apron.
Really interesting video, good to see the slow motion of the various blades. Also good to see that we both use the same CMT blades, I too have found them to be extremely well made! Are these also available as Infinity in the states? Some of their cutters have the same part numbers as the CMT ones?
Glad to hear you’re doing better. Also like the fact that you’re selling these on your website. You’re the reason I bought my first blade from CMT. It’s been a great to work with and I plan on buying more but this time from you to support the channel! Keep up the great work!
I'm cutting Northern Calif Black Walnut from my yard, that I milled 5 years ago. 3" thick now. I want the sharpest bestest nicest cut possible. Speed, FPS, is not an issue. I'm thinking a spray bottle of water and a 100Tooth on a 10" table saw. Any free advice?
Rip cuts 24-30t and crosscuts 60t. You’re doing way too much with that 100t spray bottle idea. Your biggest problem will be saw power not blade. Walnut is pretty soft as far as hardwoods go.
@@katzmosestools well, I ordered a 90T diablo blade..... 10" saw. I only have to cut 15 linear feet and it has to be razor sharp. wish me luck. and thanks
Great break down for each type of blade, thanks for all the info. I would love to see more of the slow mo videos, maybe something between the different types of blades or cutting edge.
Another fantastic video! Something that could be beneficial is to talk about riving knives with different thickness blades as well? Just a thought, keep up the great work 👍👍
Great tutorial! Questions on the use of thin kerf blades... Do you find it a benefit to use (a) blade stabilizer(s) with them to reduce possible wobble? Are they worth the expense? Also... any benefit to placing a spacer/shim between the thin kerf blade and saw arbor, so that the blade to fence distance remains the same as that for a full kerf? I assume switching between thin and full causes the saw fence scale to be thrown off by the difference between the blades (meaning you may have to re-adjust the fence scale each time because the cut distance changes). Just looking for help before I investigate further. Tx!
I have never found a stabilizer to make a noticeable difference. It is way thicker that the 1/32 difference between a full and thin and cause you to lose a lot.of cutting capacity. You DON'T want to put it between the motor and the blade. The correct side is the nut side. Will cause all sorts of problems with the riving knife and the drive shaft.
@@katzmosestools Appreciate the fast reply! Understood... on the stabilizer use. What about shimming the thin kerf blade to make the right side of the blade align with a full kerf (again, so the blade to fence cut distance does not change)? My old Craftsman does not have a riving knife and I use a MicroJig MJ Splitter (one setup for thin, one for full kerf). Tx again!
Only criticism I can give is slow your dialog down by about 10% or so. It's hard to understand so many technical terms when you talk so fast. Maybe it's just because I'm from South Louisiana and we talk slower. I don't know. Good work nonetheless.
Great information, lots of details and love the slo-mo stuff. But this one was like drinking water from a fire hydrant, dude lay off the caffeine, it's ok to breathe. 🤣✌Thanks!!
If ripping cherry I often get burn marks and I think I use either a combination or general purpose blade - what do you recommend for a 2.5HP saw for ripping lumber like cherry?
Question... Doesn't the tip do all of the cutting? I was comparing the shot at 13:33 and the tips of both look to stick up about the same amount above the metal body. I'm imagining this is where the sharpening mostly occurs? Alternatively sharpening is grinding the face and the CMT looks thicker on that direction but not by a ton. Could you put this extra carbide in practical terms? Like n sharpenings at $x vs buying a new blade? I've never had a blade sharpened so I don't know. On one hand, seems like more carbide is better... On the other I thought "huh, adding more carbide that doesn't actually do any cutting just to say there's more carbide would be a slick marketing technique."
Johnathan, I know you have provided a lot of good information here but I could only make it halfway through, before actually getting dizzy. This needed to be a much longer video, at a slower pace. Please start using a high speed camera, to record your vids, or back off the caffene, or Something.
So many woodworkers are so old school, which in a way I love. But I also love how modern and tech savvy you are, to the point to where you really do know a lot about pro video production like you actually work in film production! Great stuff man
Interestingly, all the woodworking channels I see, the people are expert computer programmer geniuses, who just happen to make a living doing woodworking in their extremely fancy climate controlled commercial work spaces. I can only think of one woodworking channel I've found that the guy doesn't seem to be an expert level video editor, and he just happens to be the only person UA-cam making radial arm saw content. This guy. ua-cam.com/video/C2BBY0h_foY/v-deo.html
Inrecently bought a CMT blade and all that I can say is wow! I am hooked will buy these moving forward unless i need one ASAP since box stores don’t carry them.
You repeatedly refer to 1.5hp or less. I have a 1.75 Sawstop. Back when I worked at a WW supply store, we debated endlessly about FK vs TK. Since 1.75 is on the border, what's your take? FWIW, I started using a FK GP and a TK rip. So far, I like them. The Chrome Orange are everything you say they are.
Great info and slo mo video Jonathan but consider slowing down the explanations a bit ;) I had to go back and forward multiple times to ingest all your excellent info.
*Brand New Lineup of Full and Thin Kerf CMT Chrome Saw Blades - use code KMT10CMT for extra 10% off* kmtools.com/collections/cmt-saw-blades
*Blade Cleaner* - shop.kmtools.com/bladecleaner
*Comprehensive Guide to Saw Blades Blog* - shop.kmtools.com/bladesblog
*Table Saw Blade Sharpening Video* ua-cam.com/video/OSXacCeEZu4/v-deo.html
*How to Tell When Your Saw Blade is Dull* ua-cam.com/video/ItaxJMBmsOg/v-deo.html
*Video Refresher*
*Thin Kerf VS Full Kerf* Thin is better if your saw has less than 1.5 HP. If your saw is more than 1.5hp get the Full Kerf. A Thin Kerf blade is great to have in the arsenal regardless for those times you want to save as much wood as possible. Also great for preserving exposed joinery and grain match when removing box lids.
*Ripping Blade 24T* The best for rip cuts and terrible at crosscuts. My most used blades.
*Crosscut Blade 60T/80T* Fantastic for crosscuts but terrible at rip cuts. Low or negative rake makes them great in the Miter Saw or for fine cuts in plywood.
*General Purpose Blade 40T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts in wood UNDER 1.25”. Great for shop jigs and plywood.
*Combination Blade 50T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts up to 2 and 1/8” inch thick. Not good for plywood though.
*Dado Stack* Best for dados, grooves, rabbets, half laps, bridal joints, and hogging out material when you’re not cutting all the way through.
Central City Tool Supply Saw Sharpening (in Santa Maria, CA) bit.ly/CentralCitySawSharpening
Just ordered a 60T for ripping some Walnut lamination strips for rocking chairs. I’ll put it to the test.
You mention less than and more than 1.5hp. However what if your table saw is *equal to* 1.5 hp (as mine is 😂). In my search on the web it seems to be up in the air and have even seen some rather large debates. What is your opinion?
I don’t know why but my cmt tk combo does better then their 80 tooth and my TK Freud glue line blade
I'm still undecided on which to get...I can only afford one right now...sigh. @KatzMosesTools Tamar 3x3 customs speaks highly of you so you are part of my research. I see blades with slice or openings every so far along...it's my understanding it's to help cool the blade. If I have a blade with none...is it safe to make my own thin spaces or cut outs? If so is there a particular shape or size and how deep would I go? I inherited a bunch of blades from an uncle when he passed away.
one of the best explanations I've ever seen about blades. greetings from Brazil
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
I really appreciate all the info on saw blades. I'm a 50 year nail bender & every blade info video I watch I learn something. Thanks again
Nice video. When I started with my JSS Pro (1.5HP) from SawStop, I purchased several quality thin kerf blades just to discover that they caused pinching between the riving knife and the fence, so I switched over full kerf blades (CMT Chrome & Amana Electro-Blu) and all my problems went away.
This video made me realize that I'm stupidly using a combination blade on my miter saw. I just ordered a nice CMT crosscut blade from your shop. Thanks!
Terrific review. I am shopping for 10 inch sawblades and this review has been very helpful, thank you.
Information is unbelievable valuable, I cant express how much your knowledge is appreciated. Thank you.
I use pine-sol to clean my blades, works fine. Great video, nice to see you back!
Great to see your face pop up in my feed! Glad you are feeling better.
hope youre feeling good man! good to see you back
Cool footage. I also love CMT, Amazing quality. Great info in this video.
Great video. I learned a lot! Thanks!
Wow! I agree with the others, that slow motion footage is amazing and very helpful in understanding how the various teeth do their work. That was also a lot of information delivered rapidly…may I humbly suggest a summary chart(s) that could be screen shot for reference appearing at the end of the video? Thank you.
I put a summary in the pinned comment but it certainly would've been good to add to the video
Great info - thanks for sharing knowledge.
Jonathan... Great content, excellent teaching skills. I was wondering if you could suggest an overall / all around CMT ripping blade for my 2hp DeWalt contractor table saw (DWS7491) , and an overall / all around cross cut CMT blade for my 12" DeWalt miter saw? Just want to start my collection and need your help. Thank you! Keep up the good work.
Very informative and hell you sold me at hello….. order place done deal
Welcome back, and glad you're feeling better. This is great content, and fascinating slow motion video, but you're presenting it way too fast. As a former professional trainer, you have to take a second or two to let the content sink in before moving on. Remember, new people are drinking from the fire hose.
I hear you but for every one of these comments, I get 5 "get to the point" comments. Lots of info to get through and 2 things are true of YT videos: 2 part and very long videos do poorly but when I talk in a clear and concise manner (like this) a majority of people seem to enjoy them more. We have a great in depth blog on our website that goes into even finer detail if you want to check out more and read at your own pace..
I currently have the 8 1/4in dewalt table saw. Could you recommend where I can get some decent 8 1/4in table saw blades. Eventually I will upgrade to the 10'' table saw. Thanks
I need consumables!
Quick question for you since I can’t seem to find it anywhere else… how do you cut a Dado in 12mm BB? The CMT precision set will dial it down to 1/32nds, but 12mm is ~15.16/32nds, leaving 15/32 too tight and 16/32 too sloppy loose
Good question, there's 6 or so shims that come with it to really dial it in. You put them between the chippers.
@@katzmosestools Thanks! I was hoping there might have been some metric shims to make it easier to dial it in, ie, set it up for 15/32, and then just add in the shim for the .16 difference which is about .0037", and if you wanted 8mm, use the 5/16, then add a .00246" shim for the difference. I've only personally worked w/ imperial, but was looking to start doing some drawer boxes and nice cabinet work and BB was metric. Been doing a ton of research on blades for my new saw (A Sawstop... thank you for your slowmo video on that too!). Hope you get some of the ones you have in your shop back in stock!
Where do you get your coffee?
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I’m too lazy to switch my blade. I use a combination blade almost all the time. 😕
Dang I just ordered two blades on Saturday, guess I missed out on a 10% opportunity…
Watching the slow mo video I noticed how all the teeth aren't cutting, do pro sharpening shops grind the outer diameter of the blade to get all the teeth even before they sharpen the teeth? No point in having 90 teeth if only 30 are actually contacting the wood.
Since you are using a SawStop, it would be good to mention that they neither recommend 1) a thin kerf blade or 2) blades with anti kickback teeth in them. The thin blades presumably may fracture when the brake kicks in. Likewise the anti kickback may allow the blade to make a few more degrees of rotation before it digs into the brake. In reality they are probably both fine and we are splitting hairs, but if you loose a finger or an eye, a lawyer, and your wife, will tell you that you should have RTFM
our mom
Moses parted the sea and Katz-Moses parts money from my wallet. Time to get a new blade
my sincere apologies 😜
Clearly this is a CMT Tool Promotion Video. But your wiping down a Forrest WoodWorker II blade. So kinda makes you wonder…..
These are the blades I carry in my store so its what we would obviously use to demonstrate what types of blades there are. We only bring tools I strongly believe in to my store so I'm proud to promote them and in no way was I paid to do so. In fact its quite the opposite. I have to purchase the blades first to be able to sell them. These companies have huge minimum intial orders so I had to put my money where my mouth is. If you go back in any video I have for the last 2 or 3 years these are the blades I have used and reccomend exclusively. Hard to see the small amount of pitch buildup on the teeth and I had an old Forrest 2 with tons of pitch build up from the rubbing in the kickback video. So I just grabbed that to demonstrate the cleaning. Was not intentional. I obsess over what I reccomend to you guys and gals. We test and test and work hard to make informed decisions. I take my commitment to offer quality high value product reccomendations seriously. I assure you I will always reccomend what I believe is the best value without outside corporate influence on my decisions.
@@katzmosestools I understand your running a business/brand #1 and don’t wanna cause you stress after a recent surgery. I understand and appreciate the information. But no one on UA-cam is doing anything for free (this doesn’t mean I’m implying anything more). Otherwise most people wouldn’t do it. I don’t want you to take my comment as being rude or obnoxious, as I’m not. It’s just my opinion. I get there’s good and bad.
Here my bad recently. Hell I just had my FESTOOL CT48 AC burn (electronics) up with less than 12 hours total run time an set off a clients fire alarms etc. Sent it in for repair and get it back with more damage than it’s ever had. So now I have to jump threw more hoops to get this resolved.
But I will say in my experiences and even my recent bad one. That no company is perfect an that some tools should be avoided for good or bad reasons. All I’m saying is it’s great to share and help each other out as human beings and woodworkers for the greater good for all to benefit. But things don’t always work out like that. I feel the most practical thing in my experiences to tell anywood worker to buy only what it is that you really need when that time comes. Otherwise your chasing your tail and not making any saw dust. Hope this response finds you well. An I have no grudge or personal vendetta just my opinion and comment.
@@katzmosestools Jonathan, I want provide another perspective and that is that I sincerely appreciate what you do and how you share information with those of us who want to grow our woodworking skills and tool collections. Until your first saw blade video, I was blissfully (isn't ignorance wonderful) using a $38 Diablo 50T combination blade on my table saw. So far as I knew it was working just fine. Sure, I had seen other videos touting expensive blades, but I simply couldn't justify it. Then I saw your first video. I even commented/communicated with you about your opinion regarding using full kerf blades on my saw. After that I made the jump and got the 24T Rip and 60T Crosscut CMT Chrome blades, both for less than a single Forrest blade. Are they as good, I don't know, probably not, but you know what...? They ARE providing me great cuts at a great value and absolutely better than what I was using before. If it wasn't for you and the information you have shared, I would still be using that Diablo, and I'm pretty sure It would not have been happy rip cutting some 8/4 Hickory (heating up, warping, burning, yikes) like that 24T rip blade did.
I am a hobbyist woodworker. I have no doubt that the money I spent on these blades was money well spent and that they make my Delta contractor table saw a better tool and me a better woodworker. I will need to have my dream SawStop 3HP cabinet saw before I feel like I need to even consider spending more on blades.
Thank you again and keep up the good work and keep sharing the knowledge.
@@davidbondi means more than you know. Thank you my friend!
You know this just seems like a long commercial where you are trying to just sell us your stuff. It may be good but it is just kind of repulsive to watch.
Every business is trying to sell you their stuff. It is up to you, the consumer, to decide what you purchase.
At least here you are getting knowledge and value up front with no strings attached.
Can’t say that for brick and mortar or most online retailers.
I cannot emphasize enough how much you have helped my woodworking. I love the down to earth teaching style. I have been building things for two decades, but have just now bought wood glue. I have always used screws for everything - but to be fair, I was always framing. Not wood working.
You have given me the confidence, and knowledge to build my first real piece of furniture. I love the channel, love the content.
Chris, could not have said it better. I came to the comments to leave a very similar message. 😊
Now do the same video with bandsaw blades- different sets, tpi, width, tensions, etc. That's one episode. Then do the same with jigsaw blades. Another episode. Finally do the same with scroll saw blades. Another episode. You already understand pictures (high speed video) are worth a thousand words....
I agree. Those bandsaw blades are really hit or miss.
One of the writers for the old American Woodworker, when asked how do you know when your blade is dull commented, "if you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator."
Hahaha that's awesome!
Man that slowmo is crazy!! It's wild how the teeth just plane the shavings off in that footage. Awesome video Jonathan!
Thanks my friend!
Great video but that guy behind you is annoying! I found myself looking at him instead of you when you changed shots. LOL!
Basically, you have created The Bible for Saw Blades. You’ve got several great epistles now. Thank you. I’ve learned a lot.
That was the goal hahaha. Thanks brother
The slow-mo cam footage is amazing. I can now visualize the cutting process and get a better idea of what blade to use.
I’ve actually started using 7-1/4” blades on my table saw full time, until I need to make a full depth cut. But 99% of the time I’m cutting 1-1/2” or less thick material and the 7-1/4” are cheaper, thinner, easier on my saw, and quieter. And cheaper 😁
How do the CMT blades stack up to the Forrest Woodworker II blades?
Great video, but Unbelievable, what do you talk much !!
I bought one of the cmt blades you recommended from the video back when you went to the blade sharpening place. I previously had a Freud cause I thought it was close enough to good. The difference in cut quality is more than night an day. I just can't even believe how much better of a blade it is. It feels like my saw gained an extra HP or something. The cuts feel less dangerous cause I'm not pushing the cut through, it's just gliding through instead. It is seriously a big deal everyone should invest in.
I wish I could pin this comment. It's the absolute truth! Thanks for sharing my friend! Side note: the brother who designed the Freud blades started the CMT line just 4 years ago. Since coming on board he's been awarded more than 10 patents for blade technology. He's done all the things Freud wouldn't let him do because they wanted to keep costs down.
Great info as usual. I need to watch again and take notes. I've got an old (80's vintage) Craftsman 12" direct drive table saw and have always been torn about buying 10" blades for it, feeling like I'm cheating myself out of the extra radius. Thinking rationally about it, the only time it would make a noticable difference is if I'm trying to resaw or otherwise cut through extra thick materials, so I probably shouldn't feel bad about using the smaller blades. Do you have any thoughts about this? Is there anything else I might be missing out on by using blades smaller than the capacity of the same? Thanks for sharing!
Great video on multiple fronts.
- lots of good info!
- great slow mo, besides being cool, it really helps understanding what our blades are doing.
I agree on the premium blade being a consideration. I have both a CMT crosscut (IIRC at your suggestion a while ago) and a Ridge Carbide rip blade. Love them.
Feed speed (how fast you push the wood) and the great slow motion video would be great to see. Glad you back and doing well.
We used to rent the high speed camera for failure analysis. They are awesome. Nice to see it used in educating others.
Every cmt blade I have had has been amazing
As we say in Italy: "The more you spend the less you spend". Thank you Jonathan for sponsoring this fantastic Italian company!
Awesome video. One thing to add though, the difference in the plate thickness on the thin kerf VS thick kerf and how that can influence stability of the blade. Forrest, for instance, recommends to use a blade stiffener on the thin kerf because they can sometimes flutter due to that thinner plate.
In my personal experience a blade stiffener severely limits your cutting depth and doesn't have a noticeable effect in my opinion. I could certainly see a use for it in some harder woods but I used one for about a year because someone recommended it and then once I took it off I never went back.
@@katzmosestools I definitely agree with it limiting the depth of cut. I have one and never use it, but I also only use full kerf blades since I have the Industrial Sawstop. It'd be interesting to see if there are situations where you could cause the flutter and compare one with and one without the stiffener. Maybe it is just snake oil, idk
I think this video is going to cost me a lot of money 🤫 I’ve understood different blade types before but never really respected it enough to ever using anything but a combination blade, except when I’m using thin veneer plywood. I’ve used TSP to clean my Blade before and it took off all the markings, so it probably would do the same for the slick coating as well. Thanks for this in-depth look at this, Jonathan.
I just purchased a week ago the CMT full kurf Gen purpose and the thin kurf combo from your and your store is extremely easy to follow and understand what each blade is used for. Extremely satisfied, definitely recommend you to everyone for blades.
Great video! For ripping ¾" plywood at a 45 degree angle, wanting a clean cut but avoid burning, what would you suggest? (I am getting burning with my 40 tooth ATB blade from Ridge Carbide)
Just started doing simple Shaker cabinet doors and you've already helped out a bunch. I watched your tips for new woodworkers and learned why my tongue and grooves weren't consistent from entry side to the exit side. Doing them in 3 passes removing a little material at a time made gave me perfect results. No more hogging for me!
That was an excellent video with a ton of information.
It did seem too much too fast, probably due to editing and to cover the material.
Glad to see you are doing well, been awhile, me too, changing gears at this point, come with age I suppose.
I'll be checking out you shop, perhaps I could use a new blade or two for the table saw, the miter has gotten most of the new blades of late, but in changing gears, the table saw will need a new set, plus with be researching your collection of blafe and bit sharpening job shops!
Safety first, last, and in between, provides for happy fabrications!
PS. Well damn the bad luck, guess I have to make a 150 mile round trip you're sold out of the blades I like to use! ...maybe next time!
Very disappointing, this was a sales infomercial, the tech delivery was way too quick. This is surprising as I am normally frustrated with presenters who deliver their material at an impossible slow rate. But Jonathan put too much in too little with one purpose, to sell CMT products. Perhaps with more attention to delivery of useful information the blatant sales pitch would have been more acceptable.
Excellent presentation! Well presented, a few frames of slow motion conveys more information and knowledge than a half hour of verbal explanation. If other power tools presentations use this format and level of research into the subject at hand you may set a high bar for others to achieve and likely raise the level of an entire industry.
Ive been framing for 25 years and never really put much thought into blades other than what i thought was thin kerf is best ive been using a Diablo 24 tooth for years now but i just bought a 60 tooth saw blade for some architectural concrete forming ive been doing and i love it so im here to learn what blades are best for what.
We need a sawblade brand shootout like the sandpaper test! It would hard to do, but I know you could do an awesome job at it. Go all out and put the winner in your store 😝
High Jonathan, this is Raymond. Wanted to know when you will have Precision dodo set 24 teat, in-stock I need to buy one. Let me know I appreciate it.
Great video Jonathan. Lots of great information for us. I wish I could hear as fast as you talk, though. I will need to watch this video about three more times to feel like I got everything. Thanks for sharing it. I'm a fan of CMT blades and will be using then exclusively from now on.
Good video, but not enough FPS.
How would you compare festool blades to CMT? Wondering which you get to add to my mitre saw.
I don't understand how you appear so much in person and you don't let that good filming of the wood cuts be seen clearly. I tried to pay attention and over and over again you appeared talking. Better in off a little more?. Good idea and effort, in any case.
Fyi... I accidentally hit the thumbs down button. I immediately hit the thumbs up right after though 👍
Not a comment but a table saw question. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw with a right tilting blade. Is it safe to cut a 60 degree angle with the fence on the right side of the blade.
"... the shims come in at anything from very very thin to a little bit thicker..." - Probably my favourite sentence in the whole video. You've got a great presentation style Jonathan it its just how I would describe such things. Love it.
I wanted to see more slow-mo. You rented that fancy camera and most of your 14 minute video was not slow-mo footage. 🤔
Why doesn't CMT offer a thin kerf ripping blade with FTG?
Dude that is some awesome slow motion footage, lovin it. I learn so much here. I had no idea the cmt blades were that affordable, might have to pick some up when I order my apron.
Thank You for your explanation and I do agree that spending more can often cost less
What’s the difference between 12t and 24t in use for a dado? Wish you had covered this in the video.
Great video. Great Information. Awesome human. Miss ya KM!
Awesome video! Now I need a director's cut version of this and the kick back slow motion footage.
Great info, and awesome shots. Thanks. Glad you are feeling better, and returned.
Really interesting video, good to see the slow motion of the various blades. Also good to see that we both use the same CMT blades, I too have found them to be extremely well made! Are these also available as Infinity in the states? Some of their cutters have the same part numbers as the CMT ones?
CMT made their blades a couple years ago but have since stopped. They have old pictures on their site.
Great content!
That footage is a game changer and your depth of detail on this subject is the most educational video yet! Bravo good sir!
Glad to hear you’re doing better. Also like the fact that you’re selling these on your website. You’re the reason I bought my first blade from CMT. It’s been a great to work with and I plan on buying more but this time from you to support the channel! Keep up the great work!
Random question what is the circular indent thats at the 1/4 of the diameter
Fantastic video, Jonathan! Thanks a bunch! 😃
I really hope everything is fine with you now!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
What sawblade is compatible with sawstop?
I'm cutting Northern Calif Black Walnut from my yard, that I milled 5 years ago. 3" thick now. I want the sharpest bestest nicest cut possible. Speed, FPS, is not an issue. I'm thinking a spray bottle of water and a 100Tooth on a 10" table saw. Any free advice?
Rip cuts 24-30t and crosscuts 60t. You’re doing way too much with that 100t spray bottle idea. Your biggest problem will be saw power not blade. Walnut is pretty soft as far as hardwoods go.
@@katzmosestools well, I ordered a 90T diablo blade..... 10" saw. I only have to cut 15 linear feet and it has to be razor sharp. wish me luck. and thanks
Great break down for each type of blade, thanks for all the info. I would love to see more of the slow mo videos, maybe something between the different types of blades or cutting edge.
Another fantastic video! Something that could be beneficial is to talk about riving knives with different thickness blades as well?
Just a thought, keep up the great work 👍👍
Great tutorial! Questions on the use of thin kerf blades...
Do you find it a benefit to use (a) blade stabilizer(s) with them to reduce possible wobble? Are they worth the expense?
Also... any benefit to placing a spacer/shim between the thin kerf blade and saw arbor, so that the blade to fence distance remains the same as that for a full kerf? I assume switching between thin and full causes the saw fence scale to be thrown off by the difference between the blades (meaning you may have to re-adjust the fence scale each time because the cut distance changes).
Just looking for help before I investigate further. Tx!
I have never found a stabilizer to make a noticeable difference. It is way thicker that the 1/32 difference between a full and thin and cause you to lose a lot.of cutting capacity. You DON'T want to put it between the motor and the blade. The correct side is the nut side. Will cause all sorts of problems with the riving knife and the drive shaft.
@@katzmosestools Appreciate the fast reply! Understood... on the stabilizer use. What about shimming the thin kerf blade to make the right side of the blade align with a full kerf (again, so the blade to fence cut distance does not change)? My old Craftsman does not have a riving knife and I use a MicroJig MJ Splitter (one setup for thin, one for full kerf). Tx again!
@@csimet it doesn't change to the left side of the blade but changes by 1/32 between the fence and the blade.
Only criticism I can give is slow your dialog down by about 10% or so. It's hard to understand so many technical terms when you talk so fast. Maybe it's just because I'm from South Louisiana and we talk slower. I don't know. Good work nonetheless.
Play the video in .75, .5, or .25. Check the “gear”, pick you playback speed of choice.
Me, watching every video in 2x speed …
:)
Great information, lots of details and love the slo-mo stuff. But this one was like drinking water from a fire hydrant, dude lay off the caffeine, it's ok to breathe. 🤣✌Thanks!!
This guy is always on 1.5 speed
Who makes a good dado set I have to much blow out
The amount of dead pixels on that slow mo camera is incredible 🤣 fantastic video man!! 😉😉🍺
If ripping cherry I often get burn marks and I think I use either a combination or general purpose blade - what do you recommend for a 2.5HP saw for ripping lumber like cherry?
Get a dedicated ripping blade. That's a super powerful saw and with the correct blade you shouldn't be getting burning
also make sure your fence and blade along with miter slot are properly aligned.
Great video!!! Thank you!!
Question... Doesn't the tip do all of the cutting? I was comparing the shot at 13:33 and the tips of both look to stick up about the same amount above the metal body. I'm imagining this is where the sharpening mostly occurs? Alternatively sharpening is grinding the face and the CMT looks thicker on that direction but not by a ton. Could you put this extra carbide in practical terms? Like n sharpenings at $x vs buying a new blade? I've never had a blade sharpened so I don't know. On one hand, seems like more carbide is better... On the other I thought "huh, adding more carbide that doesn't actually do any cutting just to say there's more carbide would be a slick marketing technique."
Johnathan, I know you have provided a lot of good information here
but I could only make it halfway through, before actually getting dizzy.
This needed to be a much longer video, at a slower pace.
Please start using a high speed camera, to record your vids, or back off
the caffene, or Something.
So many woodworkers are so old school, which in a way I love. But I also love how modern and tech savvy you are, to the point to where you really do know a lot about pro video production like you actually work in film production! Great stuff man
Interestingly, all the woodworking channels I see, the people are expert computer programmer geniuses, who just happen to make a living doing woodworking in their extremely fancy climate controlled commercial work spaces. I can only think of one woodworking channel I've found that the guy doesn't seem to be an expert level video editor, and he just happens to be the only person UA-cam making radial arm saw content. This guy. ua-cam.com/video/C2BBY0h_foY/v-deo.html
Inrecently bought a CMT blade and all that I can say is wow! I am hooked will buy these moving forward unless i need one ASAP since box stores don’t carry them.
You repeatedly refer to 1.5hp or less. I have a 1.75 Sawstop. Back when I worked at a WW supply store, we debated endlessly about FK vs TK. Since 1.75 is on the border, what's your take? FWIW, I started using a FK GP and a TK rip. So far, I like them. The Chrome Orange are everything you say they are.
Awesome sawblades info film. It's great to see how to cut blades in slowmotion. Thank Jonathan. Greetings from the land of the clompen🇱🇺🌷
Great info and slo mo video Jonathan but consider slowing down the explanations a bit ;) I had to go back and forward multiple times to ingest all your excellent info.