Before you throw away a blade that you've cut a lot of wood with give it a bath with saw blade pitch/resin remover. I've noticed that whenever I take a wood cutting blade that was cutting just fine and I store it for a few months and don't use it, whenever I put the blade back on it suddenly cuts like its dull. I bought a bottle of that SawStop blade cleaner and gave my 7.25" Diablo fine tooth blade a bath and when it was done it was cutting like it was brand new. I knew I didn't put too much mileage on it and was wondering why it was suddenly not cutting so well. I think what happens is the sap/resin that is on your teeth bricks/hardens up when you store it a long time. When you're using a blade every day the resin is being constantly knocked off and new resin is on then its knocked off as you're cutting. But when you store a blade the resin that was last sitting on the teeth stays there and bricks up and so when you start using that blade again suddenly there's a lot of extra resistance on every tooth and it cuts like crap but if you dissolve that stuff off with a cleaner the blade is brand new again.
You can resharpen the Diablo blades as well. I've done it a number of times. I plan on trying the CMT blades, but I'll wait until I can't resharpen the Diablo blades any more.
I’ve had the red come off on my work before, but I always thought it was from my fence being off, or the wood being warped. Btw, this mans channel is about to take off! His editing skills are insane!
I just stumbled across your video. I used to use Frued blades. But I used their industrial line with black lettering. A bit better than the Diablo that sold in the local depots. The thin kerf blades were great when using an underpowered saw. But I upgraded to a grizzly 240 volt 5 horsepower table saw. When using harder woods the thin blades wood deflect. I decided to try a Ridge Carbide blade… full kerf. I don’t look back now. The carbides on the ridge carbide are enormous. You can send them back to ridge carbide for sharpening. The carbides are big in fact, that they can be resharpened up to 25 times before replacing. I have a 24 tooth flat top grind for ripping. I have their 48 tooth alternating top bevel for cross cutting and ripping plywoods. I have their laminate/melamine blade which cuts double sided veneered sheet goods without chipping and tear out. And lastly, I have their super dado stack. It cuts perfect flat bottom dados with zero tear out or chipping no matter what I cut into. They are however, more expensive than the cmt and Diablo blades but are cheaper than Forrest. In my opinion they’re better better than Forrest as well. Check one out sometime. You won’t be disappointed! They also offer thin kerf blades for underpowered saws. They also will sharpen all of your router bits as well. Great American made blades!
I use a radial arm saw for all my ripping (they have 100% dust control for ripping, due to their blade guard design). And the only problem with the Ridge and Forrest blade is that the 40 tooth blades have no anti-kickback raker teeth. It's not a big deal, but when doing crosscuts on a radial arm saw, having anti-kickback raker teeth could prevent a stall or a climb of the blade, because the non-cutting raker teeth limit the "bite" so if you accidentally feed the blade too fast, it will be less likely of suddenly biting and binding. Almost all of the modern Diablo and similar blades have "anti-kickback rakers" on their blades.
I purchased one of Freud's industrial blades in 80T TCG to make a full kitchen's complement of melamine cabinets. It did a fantastic job. Hardly a chip to be found anywhere, even as the zero-clearance insert started to wear out a bit.
@@starseeddeluxeInteresting tip! I read the hook angle is also a consideration for RAS and Miter Saws, where a negative angle is less likely to climb. Is that true? It sounds like a positive hook is better for circular/track saws and table saw blades meant for ripping?
I really like CMT blades as well. I always spend more and get the industrial line as I find they stay sharper much longer. As for the colour remark, the nice thing of coloured blades is that they are visible when spinning. I have a silver blade that looks invisible when in motion which is dangerous.
I love the cmt glue joint rip blade. People *REALLY* need to pay attention to the blade. If you set up your knife correctly, and you are running a rip blade and it isn't ripping very well, try cleaning it to get the pitch off and toothbrush for the teeth. If that don't work, then get a new blade or sharpen it. Personally, CMT are excellent. As far as storage goes, I just toss a 3" deck screw and then I wrap some painters tape around it and then just hang my blades on the wall. Rip, cross cut, for each size which I run 10", 6" and whatever 3/4" (track saw blade it's an odd size) and a 7 and 3/4 circular saw. Oh and a 12" miter blade. I keep a couple of each because I swear I think my blade is dull, then I clean it and suddenly it's back in biz. Right blade right job, on those harder woods like walnut, the 24T is my go to. People think "Framing blade bro, gonna tear out my dude get wrecked noob or I'll 360 no scope ur mom" I use a 24t ALOT, and when you have to rip 34 pieces of 8 foot walnut, you will want to to be quick. If you are smart, you are oversizing anyway if you are starting your milling process. I do a shallow skip plane, do a jig on the table saw to get a straight edge (or use a track saw depending on size) and let it hang out a day. Trust me, you need a 40" long piece? Do it 41", need a 8" wide piece, do it 8.5". Nothing worse than trying to fight with 16ths because you got it too thin and now have to panic to figure out how to make it work. Not that I know anything about that.
menards carries CMT blades in stock in their stores. so you dont even have to wait for shipping necessarily. if you dont need it in the next 5min the katz moses shop or taytools both sell them and you get to support a small business run by woodworkers i use a cmt 50t combination blade in my table saw almost exclusively. no complaints. an added benefit to the combination blade is the first of every 5 tooth set is a flat top grind. for anyone who doesnt know that means your first tooth isnt angled like the rest of them. this means you can use a cmt combi blade for dados and rabbits and get a flat bottom instead of one with ridges. especially useful if youre in the uk and dont have a long enough arbor on your saw for a dado stack. or for that one half lap you gotta do and cant be bothered to change to a dado stack. diablo 100t on the miter saw simply because it came with when i got it from someone. itll get replaced with a cmt when it wears out for sure. and yes, red has come off on my work pieces before when i used diablo blades on the table saw. its annoying.
Both can be sent so a sharpening service they will just determin the angle on the Diablo, sharpen it and send it back. You can probably sharpen the CMT once more because of the thicker teeth
@@oleschnorr3543 As for me, up to 80% for re-sharpened of the price of a new one makes the whole operation not worth of attention. Even if we go scale, and assume that blade will stand safely 3 re-sharpening, it will save us less then 1 blade. So, with regular level of blades (DeWalt, Diablo, ...) IMHO not worth of risks and inconveniences. And I was counting 0.5€ price. With 1€ it's not serious at all. But. If we're using Forest and better blades - it's another story.
I used to have sharpening shop, and have been a Profesional woodworker for 35 years. All blades are resharpenable. Even the cheap blades even though its not cost effective. I still sharpen my blades and I sharpen Diablo blades all of the time. It's easy to figure angles with quality equipment. Thanks for the video.
I have the cmt chrome combination 50t blade. I got it for the table saw, but I use it in the miter saw to great effect. Diablo blades get dull fast when used for construction and framing, like they don't hold up to instances of stress over that long of a period. I still use them when I don't want to damage more expensive blades. For 6.5"/165mm & 7.25"/185mm, I now use flourine coated blades. They're more expensive and have to be imported from Japan, but they're really something else. They cut like butter, last a long long time, and the graphics never rub off. You can use them daily and they'll look like new. The best ones are the Makita white flourine shark skin and Hitachi black flourine killer whale. There's some other brands that make them too, including some larger ones.
First you a got a 👍 for the internet ref. I too made an unauthorized green/black vacuum purchase. Once my wife used for helping clean up some remodeling, she liked it so much we retired our house Bosch canister vacuum and bought a second green/blac’ vauum for the house (all hard surface flooring). Anyways, Forrest Woodworker user here, for more decades than I care to remember. They’re an investment, the customer service/sharpening/repair service is fast & second to none. Started w a Forrest thin kerf on a 10” 110v saw a long time ago in a galaxy far away. When came time to sharpen I bought a 2nd regular kerf to try while waiting. Was a bit much for my saw at the time and 2+” maple. So bought a second thin kerf and the reg kerf went on a shelf. A few years back, upgraded to a PM2K saw. Dug out the regular kerf Forrest, like butter through 2+” maple, wenge, red oak you name it, on the PM. So the thin kerfs and the blade stiffener (which is worth the money BTW for the thin kerf blades) now sit on a shelf. And I alternate between two std kerfs. I’ve lost track of how many times the blades have been resharpened over the decades. I send em in, they come back repaired teeth as needed, cleaned and as sharp as day one, if not sharper. Cuts are as claimed (if your saw is tuned). Minimum blade marks, seldom any burn marks (almost always due to operator error sometimes wood stress relieving). I’m thinking these blades will outlast me and pass down to my boys. Not associated w Forrest (or any mfgs I might mention) in any other way than as a extremely satisfied customer. Not a tuber, so no free blades here, bought and paid for w my own money. We need more companies like Forrest, Timberwolf, LN, Whiteside, Amana, Jesse-em, Veritas etc. And yes, I do use CMT products, their cleaner and router bits. Disclaimer, I’ve never tried a CMT blade, just haven’t had a reason to…yet. Perhaps one day if I wear one of the Forrest out? As always, YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. Nothing less.
IMO, Diablo blades are thin and cup/wander on me and can cut well for half a day…if I use a Diablo blade doing kitchen crown, it makes my miter joints look terrible and have little contact..you use a real good blade like this CMT, you don’t want to use anything else..they cut perfectly and square and they will stay sharp longer than any Diablo and can be resharpened and are not basically disposable…if you have enough experience cutting and working wood, this is a no brainer. I can get free Diablo blades thru my job but I prefer to buy a better blade myself to make my job easier and a little more fun.
@@BigInjun05 don't take it to them, they'll mess up the hook angles and the bevel in the teeth, sure they cut nice in the beginning, but they will burn your wood and might even get more kickback.
i prefer full kerf blades . my table saw has the horses to handle all hard woods . sawdust isn’t an issue since i do all wood working outside in fair weather .
Thanks for a great video. I just ordered 3 CMT 10" saw blades after watching your video. A 60- tooth for my miter saw, a 50-tooth for my radial arm saw and a 42-tooth general purpose for my table saw. Total order for all 3 with tax and shipping was only $108. Can't beat that price
Had to jump in here - have been using a CMT Cabinet Blade (all purpose) on my old Grizzly 1023 for the last 30 years! Just cleaned it for the first time this week and the teeth still look good-to-go. Granted, only doing “hobby” frequency on projects, but still feel like I couldn’t have spent that money any better than when I bit the bullet back in the day and got that blade! I’m with you all the way, and don’t think I’ll ever be buying any other brand for my cabinet or miter saws. By the way, sorry for being a little slow to subscribe - your videos helped me sort out my track saw plans/choices, and I even bought most of the gadgets and equipment you recommended to make my new Makita track saw do it’s thing better! Super happy with how that all worked out. Just didn’t make the “click” back then - corrected that today! Looking forward to seeing your video on the square, and whatever else you have in your pipeline. Keep it coming!
Imo, the only major reason to buy a pricey blade, like a Freud, or Forrest, is if you have a cheap, quality resharpening service near by. If you don't then get the Diablo's or the cheaper CMTs, because they are basically disposable/consumables at that point. It's often more expensive to ship out a Diablo for a resharpening, especially on something like a 60 tooth, than to just buy a new one. I really love Freud, but I plan to try out a CMT sometime, after seeing Katz-Moses raving about them. I keep Diablos around for projects like shop furniture, or working with 2x4s and sap filled softwoods. I don't want to run my Freuds through a bunch of 2x4s when the cut quality doesn't matter a ton. At the end of the day, the best solution, imo, is to have a dedicated rip blade (I like Freud's 30 tooth Glue Line - it really does leave glue-line ready rips), a nice crosscut of at least 60 teeth (I have a Freud, but the Diablo ones work fine here), and then a 40 tooth cheaper Diablo for random projects. If you take the time to change blades, and only use them for their intended purposes, they will last a lot longer.
I just found your channel. Only took seconds to decide to subscribe. I appreciate your honest approach to teaching. Looking forward to more. Watch out for those former Troopers who now pack power tools!😊
It’s been a while since I’ve used a cmt, I remember it hanging in there for a while. I’m a self employed renovation/finish carpenter. Whatever saw I have, I have a blade for a specific purpose. So for my Bosch contractor table saw, has several different blades on it at all times. Mostly Diablo due to convenience. I think the best durability test I could do is ripping Ipe. When I build decks, it’s mainly with Ipe. Most the time the milling is little to be desired so I will rip each piece into a uniform dimension, reprofile them and sand the surface. The super straight lines this yields is undeniable. I’ve gotten so many jobs for going the extra mile from customers that want to pay for it. I’ll go through 2-3 blades per job. I could keep track of the linear ft on the blade till the working corner breaks off. That’s when I pitch them. It would be quite the real world direct comparison cutting one of the hardest materials out there.
So if all im doing is ripping, should I even buy a new 24t blade or keep one came with my saw? Its sawstop cts. I have a diablo 60t on my 10in miter saw I use for crosscuts I could swap to my new table saw as well
Been using CMT for over a year, I notice a big difference. Diablo is fine for my circular saw. Just had 2 of the 4 CMT's re-sharpened, lot cheaper than buying new blades
Funny thing you😂 mentioned here. Just two days ago at work we had our jobsite table saw dropped off for cutting 1/2" x 48"x108" felt acoustic sheets. It seemed nobody wanted to open the brand new 100 tooth diablo blade. Being the new guy I grabbed the package and carefully opened it. I think that was a test! I'm new to the company but have 30+ years experience. No cuts! I think I passed! Not gonna lie, it got a bit tricky to avoid a cut!
I am just getting into woodwork and picked up an iron top table saw and refinished the top and was looking to get a new blade and this popped up in my tube feed… excellent video and great info to put me in the right direction! Thanks @Witt
Just stumbled across your channel. Unreal and great work! Yesterday I was so close to stocking up with fully set of Forrest.... I ended up switching to CMT last minute. Feels great!
I just found a mention of CMT ITK blades. Had to be careful because some CMT blades on Amazon have 33mm arbor so won't work on our saws without special adapters. I got the 1" 80 tooth 👍🏻
I recently picked up a CMT blade, not this line but all i can say is wow! Probably the only blades I’ll buy in future unless I’m a bind and need one asap.
I got a CMT 80T full kerf this summer. I've been very happy with it. I already have a good 24T blade but my 40T isn't the best so I'll be getting the CMT and see how that one works out. I'm sure I'll be happy with that one as well.
Dimar blades made in Canada that Lee Valley sells are pretty nice, you don't hear about them on UA-cam, It's almost like a secret. I worked for a cabinet shop that had their Dimar blades sharpened.
Sharpening: I have a house just a ten minute walk from a sharpening service, so I take mine there when I go to Athens, but if you’re not close to a sharpening service you need to consider that by the time you add postage both ways to the sharpening cost of a table saw blade you can almost buy a new $30 blade. So is sharpening actually worth it?
I have the General Purpose and the ripping blade that I bought off the “old testament cat” you mentioned when Jonathan first released them in his store. The General purpose cuts Melamine as well as any high tooth count blade I have ever used. With that said I always score the cut first and then cut through but I was shocked at how clean it comes off the saw for a material that notoriously chips.
Nice. I used both of those yesterday! Sometimes I use the filling blade to cross cut plywood because there’s no tear out. Crazy what a quality blade can do.
I tried the cmt full kerf rip blade . Came with one tooth broken off (package was fine). Also had two extra holes drilled in the plate, assume to balance it. Never had this with other quality blades.
Long time lurker, first time poster. As someone who does almost exclusively metalwork in my garage I laughed when you talked about the price of saw blades. If you try to spend too much under $100/blade for the smaller ones, they just chip teeth after only a few cuts and are dangerous to use in my experience. I've had so many problems with the Diablo blades leaving red on things I've cut up with them and I totally agree about the packaging. Thanks for helping a filthy casual like me find a better saw blade for cutting the occasional piece of plywood.
Ironic part of this is I have been using these for over a year, no problems until yesterday. Using a new CMT Heavy Duty Chrome blade , Crosscut, during a cut the Chrome started chipping off and hit me in the face (no damage) Sent an email with pictures Waiting to hear from customer service! Blade is just a little over 3 months old. Stuff happens... Will let you know how well they stand behind their product!
What would you recommend for a miter saw? Cutting mostly pine and poplar. Sometimes, even though not meant for, but out of need, carbon fiber (hockey sticks) and pvc (misc projects). Thanks
Hey Joe! I just put the full kerf 80 count on my miter saw. Its cuts beautifully. My miter saw is cheap and I was surprised that the full kerf worked flawlessly. Either thin or full would work for you. The higher the counter, the better the finish - so pick what you can afford. Here's the video I did while swapping it out: ua-cam.com/video/RWvxhSaI9nk/v-deo.html This is the exact blade I used: CMT Chrome 10/80: lddy.no/1239k (affiliate link). Use promo code CMT10 for 10% off. Of course, if you have a 12" saw, get the 12" version.
@@wittworks thanks a ton, much appreciated. Btw, great video. Loved the content as always. Will watch “this” video after dinner. Thanks for the video link and product link. I will definitely take advantage of the promo tonight as well thanks
I don't know about their saw blades, but I ABSOLUTELY LOVE their router bits!!😍 I'll definitely use CMT, but any thoughts on Spider Tarantula blades...?
I use CMT, Festool and Forrest along with Freud saw blades, I stop using the Dewalt, Diablo and Avanti, Irwin blades, Will move to Amana for my next melamine/ plywood blade as my CMT is at the end of it's life cycle. Tools I currently use Compound Miter, Track Saw, Circular Worm Drive, PCS SawStop 10inch so from 5 1/2 inch all the way to 12 inch blades and I wont use a cheap blade on Hardwoods that are 9 plus dollars a board foot. Nor on Custom Core plywoods for cabinet building. Cut Quality is extremely important to me.
I've got s significant collection of table saw blades. I started with a couple cheap blades that came with tools, and you can easily detect the cut quality differences between those and better aftermarket blades. I keep a couple around though in case I need to cut garbage wood that may have a nail or something in it. Doesn't come up often, but it's nice to have something that I don't care about damaging. When I started buying blades I began with Freud, but that was before Diablo was a thing. I would characterize those older Freud blades as higher quality than the Diablo. The teeth where a little more substantial than Diablo, and the plates slightly thicker. I rarely had cut quality issues with them, but I would start to see issues when pushing them hard. I changed blades on my table saw pretty often because the multipurpose blade wasn't up for demanding rips or delicate crosscuts. When I used the right blade for the job, the cuts were good, but the 24T rip blade struggled with deep cuts in dense woods. I figured that just the way things were, so I lived with it. My first premium blade was the 40T WWII multipurpose blade. That was a game changer. I rarely changed blades after that. It produced good results on all but the most demanding cuts. Well worth the investment. After about 10 years of use, it needed sharpening, and I wanted a blade to use while waiting for it to come back. I heard good thing about Ridge Carbide, so I purchased their 40T. I won't say it was a huge difference, but It was detectably better than the Forest blade. The plate is stiffer, the carbide slightly thicker, and it was sharper out of the box. Furthermore, I sent the WWII to Ridge for sharpening, and it came back better than new. Still not quite as good as the Ridge version, though. Buoyed by that experience, I purchased a Ridge rip blade. Turns out demanding rips don't have to result in poor cut quality. Rips in 12/4 hard maple (Stair treads for a floating staircase, in case you're wondering why anybody would choose to work with 12/4 hard maple) were silky smooth and burn free with the Ridge blade. Despite having about 10 table saw blades on the shelf, until recently I didn't have a high tooth-count, high bevel angle crosscut blade. It's not a blade I use that often, so I wasn't eager to drop $160 on the Ridge Carbide version. JKM was talking up the CMT Orange blades, so about a year ago I ordered the 80T. I have mixed feeling about it. I noticed all the same positives you pointed out, and the cuts are fantastic. When crosscutting Mahogany, my 60T Freud would leave a very slight amount of the finely splinted tearout on the exit of the cut, but the CMT cuts are nearly perfect. However, it's the first saw blade I ever purchased that came with a defect. The arbor hole isn't round. It looks like a laser-cut hole, and it's as if the laser stopped in one area too long and extra material melted away. A small portion of the hole is oversized, and there are visible signs of burning there. I noticed it before I even opened the package, so I'm not sure how it could have been missed on inspection. I considered returning it, but the rest of the hole is round, it fits tight and centered on the arbor, and spins up with no noticeable vibration, so I'm using it anyway. I know it's an anecdote and not data, but it makes me wonder if they have quality control issues. That said, if I find myself in need of some odd specialty blade that's available in CMT Orange, I would consider buying again.
What is the little notch in the arbor hole in the CMT blade at the 5:38 time stamp? I noticed one of mine had that and I though it was just my blade due to the saw for maybe being not tight enough or something. The blade seemed to wobble before I noticed it. That specific blade wobbles now and my old Diablo doesn’t. Do all the CMT blades you have have that same little notch
I’m just like you. Buy the best until you find something that is equivalent, or at least gives you the best use for your money. Blade prices are about to go up along with all other steel. Buy now. Stock up. Thanks for your video. I could tell it was an honest review and that is appreciated.
Been using the 24 tooth. I think I am going to buy a second one so I have one to use while I send the other out for sharpening. Then buy 2 of the 60 tooth for the same reason. Quick question, how many times can you send it out to be re-sharpened on average?
I just got a 12" grizzly extreme 7-1/2hp table saw. I wish Taylor tools offered a 12 inch blade with a lower tooth count. I'll have to check CMT to see if they even offer one. I just got a Diablo 80 tooth blade and wish I would've just bought a 10" CMT from Taylor tools. Great video!
Thank you! That’s a beast. What tooth count would be ideal? I’ll ask the owner and see if he can get anything. I know cmts catalog is larger than what they have in stock on the website.
@@wittworks Thanks for the reply! I would like to have a lower count for ripping. The saw is a used saw (only a year and a half old) and the blades it came with are a high tooth count. It has a 1" arbor so that really limits my blade selection.
I asked Taylor. Until he responds, check this one out: amzn.to/38a9rK2 What I found is 12” with a 1” bore is “industrial” so that is the class of blades you have to search in.
@@wittworks Thanks! I'll check the CMT website and see what I can find. I know my saw is way overkill but for the price I got it for, I couldn't pass it up. I also didn't want to spend a lot of money on a saw and then in a couple of year's have to step up to a little bigger one. I give God the glory for the deal I got. It's a year and a half old Grizzly G0606X1 saw with both optional toolboxes, Grizzly 3 hp G0562ZP dust collection system with a bunch of pipe and blast gates along with other collection pieces, a shop fox mortise machine and a bunch of other small tools for $3,500. The last we stopped adding up the cost new was a little over $8,000. Now I'm trying to come up with a three phase converter so I can use the saw. I'm glad Matt from 731 recommend your channel. You have another subscriber and look forward to your content!
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
A good secret for anything that can fit in a drop saw is that aluminium drop saws are way better than most wood drop saws. They are so rigid and the tip speed is so high that it's hard to get anything but a perfect cut in any material. A bit pricey and I'm not sure if you can get less than 2.5mm kerf at the large size and speed, in fact I think thinner blades wouldn't be that good since at that size they would probably flex and vibrate too much. With the big 350mm blades we tended to use 4mm 120tooth blades at 5200rpm, you could sharpen those things pretty much forever since the teeth are so thick. You often can't get more than 45deg mitre and tilt though, so it's not like they are just better or anything, but very nice if you can pick one up cheap.
You get what you pay for up to a point. Tooth design, run out, how well they cut deeper sections, and how long they stay sharp for. The sweet spot for me is in blades at around the £40 mark for 10 inch blades. My favourites are uk made Shark blades professional series at £35. Better than blades at £100 I previous bought and with similar runout at about 2 thou at the teeth which I consider excellent. Quiet to. My try cmt next time. Did you test deflection, runout or how well it mitre cuts deep sections?
Thank you! I tested runout after the video and it was in the same range as I get with Diablo (but I can’t remember what it was). Didn’t test depth, but I’ve cut 2” white oak and 2” walnut with no issues. Doesn’t bog my saw down like Diablo did. Also just put the full kerf on my cheap miter saw. Cuts like butter. I was sunrises my cheap miter would handle the full kerf.
@@wittworks Full kerf is always more precise as long as the saw can handle it (less deflection). Motors ideally need to be over 1.8HP for using full kerf blades (1.4KW). Anything under that needs thinner blades. I generally use 2.8 to 3.2mm kerf blades in a 3HP saw.
Bought my first CMT blade the other day. The 50 tooth, P10050 ITK Plus. It was on sale on Amazon for cheaper than the comparable 'devil' blade at HD. In my short woodworking experience, I've bought two Diablo blades (both 50 tooth). I have a Ridgid R4512 and I never put the stock blade on it. I went straight to the Diablo. I used the first one for well over a year. Never cleaned it. I worked well. I used the second one for just about as long. No real problems to speak of with either blade. Then, I used it to cross-cut and rip some luxury vinyl flooring. Not the cheaper, bendy stuff. This was solid core. It took varying amounts of carbide off of virtually every tooth. I didn't notice at first until I wanted to cut some wood afterwards. I had saved the first Diablo blade I had purchased so I cleaned it up and put it back on the saw and it worked pretty well. However, I wasn't done with the vinyl flooring so I ended up sacrificing that older blade. Not having a "good" blade anymore, I decided to put on the stock 40 tooth blade that came with my saw. It certainly did the job I needed it to do, but man, what a difference. That's when I saw the deal on Amazon for the CMT blade. I couldn't pass it up. Granted, a 50 tooth CMT is like night and day compared to the stock 40 tooth blade from Ridgid (or whoever makes them), but jeez Louise. What I noticed most was the lack of dust on the saw table. Compared to the stock 40 tooth blade, it was if I had over-arm dust collection. I have been delivered from the 'devil'. CMT all the way, for me.
you can sharpen the diablo by just sharpening the tips and not the sides if the edges are not that rounded over you can skim the sides as well as long as the sides stay over the kerf, and it will rejuvenate the blade and you can use it again instead of throw it out. think of the landfills.
A Big Hello from Boston!!!!! Love the few videos I have watched so far. My brother is a Graphic Artist as well. lol. But regarding the throw away Diablos, they can be resharpened! I just found out at a local high end Tool Store. They actually resharpen them for super cheap. Gave me some big explination on how and why and wow. Anyway, great job cant wait to indulge in some more of your work..........
So I tried two of those blades 1 12 inch for my DeWalt miter saw and 1. 10 inch for my tablesaw extremely disappointed with both the 12 inch one was actually to the point of being dangerous. It kept hooking and basically exploding the wood I have never in my life seen that happen before. the 10 inch one kept leaving orange stuff the stuff that’s in between the grooves all over the wood
Really love the content. The best review on CMT blades out there. Plus, I would have to say that after doing this review, you are forgiven for using the Devil blades!!
I have the 48t metal/stainless blade 4 my Milwaukee Worm Drive it is brand new and I plan to use plenty of cutting oil but I will be cutting 5/16 Steel if I use plenty of cutting oil and time will I be okay or am I overthinking this and should just use a little oil and cut away
@wittworks, GREAT video, very informative. I clicked a link to buy a blade and came across the CMT ORANGE CHROME COMBINATION BLADE 10" X T50 ATB+TCG (1/8" FULL KERF), where does this blade fall compared to the GP blade? Looking forward to your reply before purchasing.
Thank you! I would get the combo - but I’ve not used it yet. They said you can’t go wrong with either. I sometimes cross cut plywood with my 24t ripping blade and get no tear out. Don’t tell anyone.
I also like CMT blades because they can be sharpened. I hate the idea of a one time blade. Also have had the red come off when I’ve used diablo blades at work. So annoying that I did anything I could to not use the diablo. Eventually bought some CMT blades and brought them to work 😆
Im curious if the burning you got from a new blade wasn't more from the fence being misaligned or pushing the wood through too slow because a new blade shouldn't burn like that
Sharpening saw blades is pretty much a thing of the past for a lot of home shops. It's just a guess that the guy doing it knows what makes the blade preform best. And the cost per tooth can make new "exposable" blades more economical.
Hi there Genuine question why can't the diablo be re-ground. They aren't avaliable in the uk but look very similar to our freud blades which can be sent of to be sharpened
They can be sharpened if you find someone who can copy the angles (shouldn’t be hard if they’re a pro). Usually the carbide is thin so your sharpening would be limited.
I haven’t had to send them out yet to get sharpened. KatzMoses has a recommendation in the video I plugged at the very end of the video if you want to give them a try.
I doubt that the framing square is as accurate as the TSO GRS-16 Guide Rail Square. If yours is accurate, then you got lucky as most are not. A framing square is used when precision is not needed.
Yeah I hear ya I'm not beyond tryin to get the best of everything in any area of my shop, but I have a huge problem spending 150 on a blade..matt did suggest CMT to me soooooo I gotta get em maaaan...lol...thanks for upload...well done and fair....
When tooth count is talked about why doesn't anyone mention the tooth spacing or density between a 60 tooth 7 1/4" , 10" and 12" blade. Theoretically a 60 tooth 10" blade should cut about the same as a 80tooth 12" blade. Correct me if I am wrong.
Hey Witt great videos! Just a heads up…. I’m neeer to woodworking…3 years ish… I learned by watching some other UA-camrs… you can actually clean up the blade with a degreaser type chemical and lightly scrub them… bam… I get double or triple the use from them. You can probably do that with the cmt before sharpening!
If you have a Menard's in your area, they have CMT in the store. They are a lil bit more expensive but if you hate the ugly red on your project, then it is worth it.
I've had great experiences with the also Italian made Irwin Marples blades. They're right about the same price as the CMTs and Diablos, but they have a tonnn of carbide on them - very resharpenable, probably a lot like the CMTs.
This video was so awesome 👏. Great job!!!
Aw shucks! Thank you! Means a lot coming from The Man.
Matt, thanks for highlighting other channels. This shows your character.
Matt is like Tina Turner. Simply The Best.
We agree!
This transition around 1:35 minute really drive me crazy. 🤯
Before you throw away a blade that you've cut a lot of wood with give it a bath with saw blade pitch/resin remover. I've noticed that whenever I take a wood cutting blade that was cutting just fine and I store it for a few months and don't use it, whenever I put the blade back on it suddenly cuts like its dull. I bought a bottle of that SawStop blade cleaner and gave my 7.25" Diablo fine tooth blade a bath and when it was done it was cutting like it was brand new. I knew I didn't put too much mileage on it and was wondering why it was suddenly not cutting so well. I think what happens is the sap/resin that is on your teeth bricks/hardens up when you store it a long time. When you're using a blade every day the resin is being constantly knocked off and new resin is on then its knocked off as you're cutting. But when you store a blade the resin that was last sitting on the teeth stays there and bricks up and so when you start using that blade again suddenly there's a lot of extra resistance on every tooth and it cuts like crap but if you dissolve that stuff off with a cleaner the blade is brand new again.
You can resharpen the Diablo blades as well. I've done it a number of times. I plan on trying the CMT blades, but I'll wait until I can't resharpen the Diablo blades any more.
I’ve had the red come off on my work before, but I always thought it was from my fence being off, or the wood being warped.
Btw, this mans channel is about to take off! His editing skills are insane!
Bro. You have to be more subtle. They’ll know I paid you to be my hype man. 🙃
@@wittworkslooks like it didn't matter how thick he laid it on, lol.
I just stumbled across your video. I used to use Frued blades. But I used their industrial line with black lettering. A bit better than the Diablo that sold in the local depots. The thin kerf blades were great when using an underpowered saw. But I upgraded to a grizzly 240 volt 5 horsepower table saw. When using harder woods the thin blades wood deflect. I decided to try a Ridge Carbide blade… full kerf. I don’t look back now. The carbides on the ridge carbide are enormous. You can send them back to ridge carbide for sharpening. The carbides are big in fact, that they can be resharpened up to 25 times before replacing. I have a 24 tooth flat top grind for ripping. I have their 48 tooth alternating top bevel for cross cutting and ripping plywoods. I have their laminate/melamine blade which cuts double sided veneered sheet goods without chipping and tear out. And lastly, I have their super dado stack. It cuts perfect flat bottom dados with zero tear out or chipping no matter what I cut into. They are however, more expensive than the cmt and Diablo blades but are cheaper than Forrest. In my opinion they’re better better than Forrest as well. Check one out sometime. You won’t be disappointed! They also offer thin kerf blades for underpowered saws. They also will sharpen all of your router bits as well. Great American made blades!
I use a radial arm saw for all my ripping (they have 100% dust control for ripping, due to their blade guard design). And the only problem with the Ridge and Forrest blade is that the 40 tooth blades have no anti-kickback raker teeth. It's not a big deal, but when doing crosscuts on a radial arm saw, having anti-kickback raker teeth could prevent a stall or a climb of the blade, because the non-cutting raker teeth limit the "bite" so if you accidentally feed the blade too fast, it will be less likely of suddenly biting and binding. Almost all of the modern Diablo and similar blades have "anti-kickback rakers" on their blades.
I purchased one of Freud's industrial blades in 80T TCG to make a full kitchen's complement of melamine cabinets. It did a fantastic job. Hardly a chip to be found anywhere, even as the zero-clearance insert started to wear out a bit.
@@starseeddeluxeInteresting tip!
I read the hook angle is also a consideration for RAS and Miter Saws, where a negative angle is less likely to climb. Is that true?
It sounds like a positive hook is better for circular/track saws and table saw blades meant for ripping?
I really like CMT blades as well. I always spend more and get the industrial line as I find they stay sharper much longer. As for the colour remark, the nice thing of coloured blades is that they are visible when spinning. I have a silver blade that looks invisible when in motion which is dangerous.
Thank you. Good point.
Ohh damn that's a good point
Mark your blades with magic marker. You can draw spokes on the blade of get dizzy with a spiral!!! LOL
I love the cmt glue joint rip blade. People *REALLY* need to pay attention to the blade. If you set up your knife correctly, and you are running a rip blade and it isn't ripping very well, try cleaning it to get the pitch off and toothbrush for the teeth. If that don't work, then get a new blade or sharpen it. Personally, CMT are excellent. As far as storage goes, I just toss a 3" deck screw and then I wrap some painters tape around it and then just hang my blades on the wall. Rip, cross cut, for each size which I run 10", 6" and whatever 3/4" (track saw blade it's an odd size) and a 7 and 3/4 circular saw. Oh and a 12" miter blade. I keep a couple of each because I swear I think my blade is dull, then I clean it and suddenly it's back in biz.
Right blade right job, on those harder woods like walnut, the 24T is my go to. People think "Framing blade bro, gonna tear out my dude get wrecked noob or I'll 360 no scope ur mom" I use a 24t ALOT, and when you have to rip 34 pieces of 8 foot walnut, you will want to to be quick. If you are smart, you are oversizing anyway if you are starting your milling process. I do a shallow skip plane, do a jig on the table saw to get a straight edge (or use a track saw depending on size) and let it hang out a day. Trust me, you need a 40" long piece? Do it 41", need a 8" wide piece, do it 8.5". Nothing worse than trying to fight with 16ths because you got it too thin and now have to panic to figure out how to make it work. Not that I know anything about that.
menards carries CMT blades in stock in their stores. so you dont even have to wait for shipping necessarily. if you dont need it in the next 5min the katz moses shop or taytools both sell them and you get to support a small business run by woodworkers
i use a cmt 50t combination blade in my table saw almost exclusively. no complaints. an added benefit to the combination blade is the first of every 5 tooth set is a flat top grind. for anyone who doesnt know that means your first tooth isnt angled like the rest of them. this means you can use a cmt combi blade for dados and rabbits and get a flat bottom instead of one with ridges. especially useful if youre in the uk and dont have a long enough arbor on your saw for a dado stack. or for that one half lap you gotta do and cant be bothered to change to a dado stack.
diablo 100t on the miter saw simply because it came with when i got it from someone. itll get replaced with a cmt when it wears out for sure.
and yes, red has come off on my work pieces before when i used diablo blades on the table saw. its annoying.
Thank you for sharing. Good tip on the combo blade.
Both can be sent so a sharpening service they will just determin the angle on the Diablo, sharpen it and send it back. You can probably sharpen the CMT once more because of the thicker teeth
Yeah I've had my Diablo blades both sharpened before and they were just as good as new if not better.
How much can it cost?
@@mykolashatkovskyi8817 you can probably expect 0.50€-1€ per tooth at least here in Germany
@@oleschnorr3543
As for me, up to 80% for re-sharpened of the price of a new one makes the whole operation not worth of attention.
Even if we go scale, and assume that blade will stand safely 3 re-sharpening, it will save us less then 1 blade.
So, with regular level of blades (DeWalt, Diablo, ...) IMHO not worth of risks and inconveniences.
And I was counting 0.5€ price. With 1€ it's not serious at all.
But. If we're using Forest and better blades - it's another story.
There are also catalogs with angles for Diablo for anyone interested.
I used to have sharpening shop, and have been a Profesional woodworker for 35 years. All blades are resharpenable. Even the cheap blades even though its not cost effective. I still sharpen my blades and I sharpen Diablo blades all of the time. It's easy to figure angles with quality equipment. Thanks for the video.
I have the cmt chrome combination 50t blade. I got it for the table saw, but I use it in the miter saw to great effect.
Diablo blades get dull fast when used for construction and framing, like they don't hold up to instances of stress over that long of a period. I still use them when I don't want to damage more expensive blades.
For 6.5"/165mm & 7.25"/185mm, I now use flourine coated blades. They're more expensive and have to be imported from Japan, but they're really something else. They cut like butter, last a long long time, and the graphics never rub off. You can use them daily and they'll look like new. The best ones are the Makita white flourine shark skin and Hitachi black flourine killer whale. There's some other brands that make them too, including some larger ones.
Would be nice if we could get those white makita ones in the UK they look really good and nice to hear you’ve had a good experience with them
First you a got a 👍 for the internet ref. I too made an unauthorized green/black vacuum purchase. Once my wife used for helping clean up some remodeling, she liked it so much we retired our house Bosch canister vacuum and bought a second green/blac’ vauum for the house (all hard surface flooring).
Anyways, Forrest Woodworker user here, for more decades than I care to remember. They’re an investment, the customer service/sharpening/repair service is fast & second to none. Started w a Forrest thin kerf on a 10” 110v saw a long time ago in a galaxy far away. When came time to sharpen I bought a 2nd regular kerf to try while waiting. Was a bit much for my saw at the time and 2+” maple. So bought a second thin kerf and the reg kerf went on a shelf. A few years back, upgraded to a PM2K saw. Dug out the regular kerf Forrest, like butter through 2+” maple, wenge, red oak you name it, on the PM. So the thin kerfs and the blade stiffener (which is worth the money BTW for the thin kerf blades) now sit on a shelf. And I alternate between two std kerfs. I’ve lost track of how many times the blades have been resharpened over the decades. I send em in, they come back repaired teeth as needed, cleaned and as sharp as day one, if not sharper. Cuts are as claimed (if your saw is tuned). Minimum blade marks, seldom any burn marks (almost always due to operator error sometimes wood stress relieving). I’m thinking these blades will outlast me and pass down to my boys.
Not associated w Forrest (or any mfgs I might mention) in any other way than as a extremely satisfied customer. Not a tuber, so no free blades here, bought and paid for w my own money. We need more companies like Forrest, Timberwolf, LN, Whiteside, Amana, Jesse-em, Veritas etc. And yes, I do use CMT products, their cleaner and router bits.
Disclaimer, I’ve never tried a CMT blade, just haven’t had a reason to…yet. Perhaps one day if I wear one of the Forrest out?
As always, YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. Nothing less.
10" diablo 40T is $47 at Home Depot for a pack of 2 ($23.50 per blade). Which is much less than getting a blade resharpened when you include shipping.
IMO, Diablo blades are thin and cup/wander on me and can cut well for half a day…if I use a Diablo blade doing kitchen crown, it makes my miter joints look terrible and have little contact..you use a real good blade like this CMT, you don’t want to use anything else..they cut perfectly and square and they will stay sharp longer than any Diablo and can be resharpened and are not basically disposable…if you have enough experience cutting and working wood, this is a no brainer. I can get free Diablo blades thru my job but I prefer to buy a better blade myself to make my job easier and a little more fun.
Box store blades are designed for rough framing not fine wood working.
A professionally resharpened blade will cut better than new.
I have a local shop that sharpens.
@@BigInjun05 don't take it to them, they'll mess up the hook angles and the bevel in the teeth, sure they cut nice in the beginning, but they will burn your wood and might even get more kickback.
i prefer full kerf blades . my table saw has the horses to handle all hard woods . sawdust isn’t an issue since i do all wood working outside in fair weather .
Thanks for a great video. I just ordered 3 CMT 10" saw blades after watching your video. A 60- tooth for my miter saw, a 50-tooth for my radial arm saw and a 42-tooth general purpose for my table saw. Total order for all 3 with tax and shipping was only $108. Can't beat that price
Had to jump in here - have been using a CMT Cabinet Blade (all purpose) on my old Grizzly 1023 for the last 30 years! Just cleaned it for the first time this week and the teeth still look good-to-go. Granted, only doing “hobby” frequency on projects, but still feel like I couldn’t have spent that money any better than when I bit the bullet back in the day and got that blade! I’m with you all the way, and don’t think I’ll ever be buying any other brand for my cabinet or miter saws.
By the way, sorry for being a little slow to subscribe - your videos helped me sort out my track saw plans/choices, and I even bought most of the gadgets and equipment you recommended to make my new Makita track saw do it’s thing better! Super happy with how that all worked out. Just didn’t make the “click” back then - corrected that today! Looking forward to seeing your video on the square, and whatever else you have in your pipeline. Keep it coming!
Thanks! The square video was released a few months back. Check it out.
Imo, the only major reason to buy a pricey blade, like a Freud, or Forrest, is if you have a cheap, quality resharpening service near by. If you don't then get the Diablo's or the cheaper CMTs, because they are basically disposable/consumables at that point. It's often more expensive to ship out a Diablo for a resharpening, especially on something like a 60 tooth, than to just buy a new one.
I really love Freud, but I plan to try out a CMT sometime, after seeing Katz-Moses raving about them. I keep Diablos around for projects like shop furniture, or working with 2x4s and sap filled softwoods. I don't want to run my Freuds through a bunch of 2x4s when the cut quality doesn't matter a ton.
At the end of the day, the best solution, imo, is to have a dedicated rip blade (I like Freud's 30 tooth Glue Line - it really does leave glue-line ready rips), a nice crosscut of at least 60 teeth (I have a Freud, but the Diablo ones work fine here), and then a 40 tooth cheaper Diablo for random projects.
If you take the time to change blades, and only use them for their intended purposes, they will last a lot longer.
Thank you for sharing. The cheaper CMTs are re sharpen-able.
I just found your channel. Only took seconds to decide to subscribe. I appreciate your honest approach to teaching.
Looking forward to more. Watch out for those former Troopers who now pack power tools!😊
Thank you Louis!
It’s been a while since I’ve used a cmt, I remember it hanging in there for a while. I’m a self employed renovation/finish carpenter. Whatever saw I have, I have a blade for a specific purpose. So for my Bosch contractor table saw, has several different blades on it at all times. Mostly Diablo due to convenience. I think the best durability test I could do is ripping Ipe. When I build decks, it’s mainly with Ipe. Most the time the milling is little to be desired so I will rip each piece into a uniform dimension, reprofile them and sand the surface. The super straight lines this yields is undeniable. I’ve gotten so many jobs for going the extra mile from customers that want to pay for it. I’ll go through 2-3 blades per job. I could keep track of the linear ft on the blade till the working corner breaks off. That’s when I pitch them. It would be quite the real world direct comparison cutting one of the hardest materials out there.
That’s awesome! Thank you for sharing.
So if all im doing is ripping, should I even buy a new 24t blade or keep one came with my saw? Its sawstop cts. I have a diablo 60t on my 10in miter saw I use for crosscuts I could swap to my new table saw as well
I love the labels on the wood, and you humor adds to each video.
Thank you! 🤩
spot on. nothing cuts clean and smooth like CMT blades
Been using CMT for over a year, I notice a big difference. Diablo is fine for my circular saw. Just had 2 of the 4 CMT's re-sharpened, lot cheaper than buying new blades
thats great!
What was the sharpening charge?? When I checked a long time ago, it was cheaper to buy a new blade.
@@nunnaurbzznzzz1734 I believe it was under $11. My blades are between $60 and $150 each.
@@jimdfwwoodworks37Was it a local sharpening service or something online?
@@TWC6724 Local here in Phx
Funny thing you😂 mentioned here. Just two days ago at work we had our jobsite table saw dropped off for cutting 1/2" x 48"x108" felt acoustic sheets. It seemed nobody wanted to open the brand new 100 tooth diablo blade. Being the new guy I grabbed the package and carefully opened it. I think that was a test! I'm new to the company but have 30+ years experience. No cuts! I think I passed!
Not gonna lie, it got a bit tricky to avoid a cut!
dude, just use a pair of scissors to cut around the edge, then lift the blade out, it is really easy. what are you guys doing??
@ssl3546 Many mistakes are written in blood. It's tough to be perfect and odour free as much as I try. Close calls are exactly what they are.
"And the most expensive wood out there, a pine 2x6 from a big box store" And now I am subscribed! 🤣
Thanks! I’ll take your subscription as the silver lining to the lumber prices.
I am just getting into woodwork and picked up an iron top table saw and refinished the top and was looking to get a new blade and this popped up in my tube feed… excellent video and great info to put me in the right direction! Thanks @Witt
Congrats! You’ll love them. Thank you.
Just stumbled across your channel. Unreal and great work! Yesterday I was so close to stocking up with fully set of Forrest.... I ended up switching to CMT last minute. Feels great!
Thank you Blake! You'll love them! They're SO good.
This is not possible. You don’t go from shopping Forrest to these garbage blades. CMT is paying everyone a whole lot of money
I’m not aware of cmt paying anyone. Certainly not me.
@@wittworks what?! You have discount codes!
Doesn’t mean they pay me. Cmt doesn’t know who I am.
I just found a mention of CMT ITK blades.
Had to be careful because some CMT blades on Amazon have 33mm arbor so won't work on our saws without special adapters. I got the 1" 80 tooth 👍🏻
I recently picked up a CMT blade, not this line but all i can say is wow! Probably the only blades I’ll buy in future unless I’m a bind and need one asap.
I got a CMT 80T full kerf this summer. I've been very happy with it. I already have a good 24T blade but my 40T isn't the best so I'll be getting the CMT and see how that one works out. I'm sure I'll be happy with that one as well.
Great blades! Wish I saw your videos that showed these blades earlier. Great price too
Dimar blades made in Canada that Lee Valley sells are pretty nice, you don't hear about them on UA-cam, It's almost like a secret. I worked for a cabinet shop that had their Dimar blades sharpened.
I’ll check them out!
Sharpening:
I have a house just a ten minute walk from a sharpening service, so I take mine there when I go to Athens, but if you’re not close to a sharpening service you need to consider that by the time you add postage both ways to the sharpening cost of a table saw blade you can almost buy a new $30 blade. So is sharpening actually worth it?
I have the General Purpose and the ripping blade that I bought off the “old testament cat” you mentioned when Jonathan first released them in his store. The General purpose cuts Melamine as well as any high tooth count blade I have ever used. With that said I always score the cut first and then cut through but I was shocked at how clean it comes off the saw for a material that notoriously chips.
Nice. I used both of those yesterday! Sometimes I use the filling blade to cross cut plywood because there’s no tear out. Crazy what a quality blade can do.
Al Gores Internet!!! I love it!🤣
I tried the cmt full kerf rip blade . Came with one tooth broken off (package was fine). Also had two extra holes drilled in the plate, assume to balance it. Never had this with other quality blades.
I run cmt in everything from saws to my routers. I don’t change blades much anymore and I build a lot of subwoofer enclosures!
Very cool!
Long time lurker, first time poster. As someone who does almost exclusively metalwork in my garage I laughed when you talked about the price of saw blades. If you try to spend too much under $100/blade for the smaller ones, they just chip teeth after only a few cuts and are dangerous to use in my experience.
I've had so many problems with the Diablo blades leaving red on things I've cut up with them and I totally agree about the packaging.
Thanks for helping a filthy casual like me find a better saw blade for cutting the occasional piece of plywood.
Ironic part of this is I have been using these for over a year, no problems until yesterday. Using a new CMT Heavy Duty Chrome blade , Crosscut, during a cut the Chrome started chipping off and hit me in the face (no damage)
Sent an email with pictures Waiting to hear from customer service! Blade is just a little over 3 months old.
Stuff happens... Will let you know how well they stand behind their product!
Dang! Let me know. Where’d you buy it from?
@@wittworks Katz Mosses... Really bothers me, it puts a finish cut on that is perfect.
@@wittworks K-M
What would you recommend for a miter saw? Cutting mostly pine and poplar. Sometimes, even though not meant for, but out of need, carbon fiber (hockey sticks) and pvc (misc projects). Thanks
Hey Joe! I just put the full kerf 80 count on my miter saw. Its cuts beautifully. My miter saw is cheap and I was surprised that the full kerf worked flawlessly. Either thin or full would work for you. The higher the counter, the better the finish - so pick what you can afford. Here's the video I did while swapping it out: ua-cam.com/video/RWvxhSaI9nk/v-deo.html
This is the exact blade I used: CMT Chrome 10/80: lddy.no/1239k (affiliate link). Use promo code CMT10 for 10% off. Of course, if you have a 12" saw, get the 12" version.
@@wittworks thanks a ton, much appreciated. Btw, great video. Loved the content as always. Will watch “this” video after dinner. Thanks for the video link and product link. I will definitely take advantage of the promo tonight as well thanks
You’re welcome!
I don't know about their saw blades, but I ABSOLUTELY LOVE their router bits!!😍 I'll definitely use CMT, but any thoughts on Spider Tarantula blades...?
I use CMT, Festool and Forrest along with Freud saw blades, I stop using the Dewalt, Diablo and Avanti, Irwin blades, Will move to Amana for my next melamine/ plywood blade as my CMT is at the end of it's life cycle. Tools I currently use Compound Miter, Track Saw, Circular Worm Drive, PCS SawStop 10inch so from 5 1/2 inch all the way to 12 inch blades and I wont use a cheap blade on Hardwoods that are 9 plus dollars a board foot. Nor on Custom Core plywoods for cabinet building. Cut Quality is extremely important to me.
I've got s significant collection of table saw blades. I started with a couple cheap blades that came with tools, and you can easily detect the cut quality differences between those and better aftermarket blades. I keep a couple around though in case I need to cut garbage wood that may have a nail or something in it. Doesn't come up often, but it's nice to have something that I don't care about damaging.
When I started buying blades I began with Freud, but that was before Diablo was a thing. I would characterize those older Freud blades as higher quality than the Diablo. The teeth where a little more substantial than Diablo, and the plates slightly thicker. I rarely had cut quality issues with them, but I would start to see issues when pushing them hard. I changed blades on my table saw pretty often because the multipurpose blade wasn't up for demanding rips or delicate crosscuts. When I used the right blade for the job, the cuts were good, but the 24T rip blade struggled with deep cuts in dense woods. I figured that just the way things were, so I lived with it.
My first premium blade was the 40T WWII multipurpose blade. That was a game changer. I rarely changed blades after that. It produced good results on all but the most demanding cuts. Well worth the investment. After about 10 years of use, it needed sharpening, and I wanted a blade to use while waiting for it to come back. I heard good thing about Ridge Carbide, so I purchased their 40T. I won't say it was a huge difference, but It was detectably better than the Forest blade. The plate is stiffer, the carbide slightly thicker, and it was sharper out of the box. Furthermore, I sent the WWII to Ridge for sharpening, and it came back better than new. Still not quite as good as the Ridge version, though.
Buoyed by that experience, I purchased a Ridge rip blade. Turns out demanding rips don't have to result in poor cut quality. Rips in 12/4 hard maple (Stair treads for a floating staircase, in case you're wondering why anybody would choose to work with 12/4 hard maple) were silky smooth and burn free with the Ridge blade.
Despite having about 10 table saw blades on the shelf, until recently I didn't have a high tooth-count, high bevel angle crosscut blade. It's not a blade I use that often, so I wasn't eager to drop $160 on the Ridge Carbide version. JKM was talking up the CMT Orange blades, so about a year ago I ordered the 80T. I have mixed feeling about it. I noticed all the same positives you pointed out, and the cuts are fantastic. When crosscutting Mahogany, my 60T Freud would leave a very slight amount of the finely splinted tearout on the exit of the cut, but the CMT cuts are nearly perfect. However, it's the first saw blade I ever purchased that came with a defect. The arbor hole isn't round. It looks like a laser-cut hole, and it's as if the laser stopped in one area too long and extra material melted away. A small portion of the hole is oversized, and there are visible signs of burning there. I noticed it before I even opened the package, so I'm not sure how it could have been missed on inspection. I considered returning it, but the rest of the hole is round, it fits tight and centered on the arbor, and spins up with no noticeable vibration, so I'm using it anyway. I know it's an anecdote and not data, but it makes me wonder if they have quality control issues. That said, if I find myself in need of some odd specialty blade that's available in CMT Orange, I would consider buying again.
Thank you. I was looking into the CMT blades that I saw while looking at a new Miter.
Great video! I've been considering the CMT blades...you just convinced me
Thank you! I might have 7 🫣
They are stunning.... used them for 15 years and they are stunning. And their 3.2mm blades can hold to 12-15 sharpenings witch is stunning.
I was able to have the diablo saw blade sharpened at a local professional sharpner. It cost a bit, but seems pretty good.
Very nice! I’ve seen some with enough carbide on them to sharpen
What is the little notch in the arbor hole in the CMT blade at the 5:38 time stamp? I noticed one of mine had that and I though it was just my blade due to the saw for maybe being not tight enough or something. The blade seemed to wobble before I noticed it. That specific blade wobbles now and my old Diablo doesn’t. Do all the CMT blades you have have that same little notch
All of them have that notch and I’m not sure why. Mine don’t wobble 🤷♂️
@@wittworks thanks. I think I’ll give them another go. Maybe the blade is actually fine. Thanks for the quick reply and I love your content.
I’m just like you.
Buy the best until you find something that is equivalent, or at least gives you the best use for your money.
Blade prices are about to go up along with all other steel. Buy now. Stock up.
Thanks for your video. I could tell it was an honest review and that is appreciated.
One of the greatest marketing videos ever, but speaks the truth , and you learn !! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Been using the 24 tooth. I think I am going to buy a second one so I have one to use while I send the other out for sharpening. Then buy 2 of the 60 tooth for the same reason. Quick question, how many times can you send it out to be re-sharpened on average?
Great advice. I’m shopping for a flat tooth joinery blade. I’m heading to Taylor tool works from here. Thanks
Thank you Dave! You’ll love them! I have 7 and will never go back to the devil. After a year they’re still very sharp.
I just got a 12" grizzly extreme 7-1/2hp table saw. I wish Taylor tools offered a 12 inch blade with a lower tooth count. I'll have to check CMT to see if they even offer one. I just got a Diablo 80 tooth blade and wish I would've just bought a 10" CMT from Taylor tools. Great video!
Thank you! That’s a beast. What tooth count would be ideal? I’ll ask the owner and see if he can get anything. I know cmts catalog is larger than what they have in stock on the website.
@@wittworks Thanks for the reply! I would like to have a lower count for ripping. The saw is a used saw (only a year and a half old) and the blades it came with are a high tooth count. It has a 1" arbor so that really limits my blade selection.
I asked Taylor. Until he responds, check this one out: amzn.to/38a9rK2
What I found is 12” with a 1” bore is “industrial” so that is the class of blades you have to search in.
@@wittworks Thanks! I'll check the CMT website and see what I can find. I know my saw is way overkill but for the price I got it for, I couldn't pass it up. I also didn't want to spend a lot of money on a saw and then in a couple of year's have to step up to a little bigger one. I give God the glory for the deal I got. It's a year and a half old Grizzly G0606X1 saw with both optional toolboxes, Grizzly 3 hp G0562ZP dust collection system with a bunch of pipe and blast gates along with other collection pieces, a shop fox mortise machine and a bunch of other small tools for $3,500. The last we stopped adding up the cost new was a little over $8,000. Now I'm trying to come up with a three phase converter so I can use the saw. I'm glad Matt from 731 recommend your channel. You have another subscriber and look forward to your content!
Thank you! What a deal!
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
A good secret for anything that can fit in a drop saw is that aluminium drop saws are way better than most wood drop saws. They are so rigid and the tip speed is so high that it's hard to get anything but a perfect cut in any material. A bit pricey and I'm not sure if you can get less than 2.5mm kerf at the large size and speed, in fact I think thinner blades wouldn't be that good since at that size they would probably flex and vibrate too much. With the big 350mm blades we tended to use 4mm 120tooth blades at 5200rpm, you could sharpen those things pretty much forever since the teeth are so thick. You often can't get more than 45deg mitre and tilt though, so it's not like they are just better or anything, but very nice if you can pick one up cheap.
You get what you pay for up to a point. Tooth design, run out, how well they cut deeper sections, and how long they stay sharp for. The sweet spot for me is in blades at around the £40 mark for 10 inch blades. My favourites are uk made Shark blades professional series at £35. Better than blades at £100 I previous bought and with similar runout at about 2 thou at the teeth which I consider excellent. Quiet to. My try cmt next time. Did you test deflection, runout or how well it mitre cuts deep sections?
Thank you! I tested runout after the video and it was in the same range as I get with Diablo (but I can’t remember what it was). Didn’t test depth, but I’ve cut 2” white oak and 2” walnut with no issues. Doesn’t bog my saw down like Diablo did. Also just put the full kerf on my cheap miter saw. Cuts like butter. I was sunrises my cheap miter would handle the full kerf.
@@wittworks Full kerf is always more precise as long as the saw can handle it (less deflection). Motors ideally need to be over 1.8HP for using full kerf blades (1.4KW). Anything under that needs thinner blades. I generally use 2.8 to 3.2mm kerf blades in a 3HP saw.
Bought my first CMT blade the other day. The 50 tooth, P10050 ITK Plus. It was on sale on Amazon for cheaper than the comparable 'devil' blade at HD.
In my short woodworking experience, I've bought two Diablo blades (both 50 tooth). I have a Ridgid R4512 and I never put the stock blade on it. I went straight to the Diablo. I used the first one for well over a year. Never cleaned it. I worked well. I used the second one for just about as long. No real problems to speak of with either blade. Then, I used it to cross-cut and rip some luxury vinyl flooring. Not the cheaper, bendy stuff. This was solid core. It took varying amounts of carbide off of virtually every tooth. I didn't notice at first until I wanted to cut some wood afterwards.
I had saved the first Diablo blade I had purchased so I cleaned it up and put it back on the saw and it worked pretty well. However, I wasn't done with the vinyl flooring so I ended up sacrificing that older blade.
Not having a "good" blade anymore, I decided to put on the stock 40 tooth blade that came with my saw. It certainly did the job I needed it to do, but man, what a difference. That's when I saw the deal on Amazon for the CMT blade. I couldn't pass it up.
Granted, a 50 tooth CMT is like night and day compared to the stock 40 tooth blade from Ridgid (or whoever makes them), but jeez Louise. What I noticed most was the lack of dust on the saw table. Compared to the stock 40 tooth blade, it was if I had over-arm dust collection.
I have been delivered from the 'devil'. CMT all the way, for me.
Tengo 3 CMT . Son mejores las diablos? Gracias.
I wonder if the 48t blade would be any good. I ordered the 80 for my miter saw. But the price on that 48 seems nice
you can sharpen the diablo by just sharpening the tips and not the sides
if the edges are not that rounded over you can skim the sides as well as long as the sides stay over the kerf, and it will rejuvenate the blade and you can use it again instead of throw it out.
think of the landfills.
A Big Hello from Boston!!!!! Love the few videos I have watched so far. My brother is a Graphic Artist as well. lol. But regarding the throw away Diablos, they can be resharpened! I just found out at a local high end Tool Store. They actually resharpen them for super cheap. Gave me some big explination on how and why and wow. Anyway, great job cant wait to indulge in some more of your work..........
Very cool! Go Sox! My family grew up on Cape Cod in both New Bedford and Hyannis. Go to Friendly's for me....
I'm from New Bedford!!!!! That's so funny. I say Boston because who knows New Bedford. I will share as much as possible. Good luck!
NEW BEDFID is how my mom says it
Yes that is too funny We definitely "pahk the cah in the Yahd"
@@wittworks too funny! Yes we definitely "pahk the cah in the yard here in New Befid!!! Take care keep making these great videos
So I tried two of those blades 1 12 inch for my DeWalt miter saw and 1. 10 inch for my tablesaw extremely disappointed with both the 12 inch one was actually to the point of being dangerous. It kept hooking and basically exploding the wood I have never in my life seen that happen before. the 10 inch one kept leaving orange stuff the stuff that’s in between the grooves all over the wood
Are there replacement blades for tracksaws?
Good to see you back, I hope things are going ok!
Thanks bro
Forgot to ask, real "Work" outfit at the start?
😙 it was. Only wore it on very special occasions
Really love the content. The best review on CMT blades out there. Plus, I would have to say that after doing this review, you are forgiven for using the Devil blades!!
Thanks Mike. You’re funny! *makes sign of the cross*
Just an FYI, Menards carries CMT accessories....I've bought a blade there and also a forester bit from CMT.
I have the 48t metal/stainless blade 4 my Milwaukee Worm Drive it is brand new and I plan to use plenty of cutting oil but I will be cutting 5/16 Steel if I use plenty of cutting oil and time will I be okay or am I overthinking this and should just use a little oil and cut away
@wittworks, GREAT video, very informative. I clicked a link to buy a blade and came across the CMT ORANGE CHROME COMBINATION BLADE 10" X T50 ATB+TCG (1/8" FULL KERF), where does this blade fall compared to the GP blade? Looking forward to your reply before purchasing.
Thank you! I would get the combo - but I’ve not used it yet. They said you can’t go wrong with either. I sometimes cross cut plywood with my 24t ripping blade and get no tear out. Don’t tell anyone.
Thanks for making this video. We have been wondering if we should buy CMT blades or diablo blades.
Thank you! For business I think it’s an easy choice. Saves money in the long run.
I also like CMT blades because they can be sharpened. I hate the idea of a one time blade.
Also have had the red come off when I’ve used diablo blades at work. So annoying that I did anything I could to not use the diablo. Eventually bought some CMT blades and brought them to work 😆
That’s awesome!
I have used CMT for 15 years and I am getting up to 15 sharpenings on a single blade. They are just awesome.
Wow! That’s a great investment.
Why can't you sharpen a Diablo. Angles can't be measured?
Im curious if the burning you got from a new blade wasn't more from the fence being misaligned or pushing the wood through too slow because a new blade shouldn't burn like that
9:40 Where can these be resharpened for $10?
Sharpening saw blades is pretty much a thing of the past for a lot of home shops. It's just a guess that the guy doing it knows what makes the blade preform best. And the cost per tooth can make new "exposable" blades more economical.
Just to add to your count ...yes...I get the red on my cuts. I have used CMT and have had no issues.
Thank you for sharing. Seems to be a common experience with the red blades
Amana MA10060 MITER 10"x60T ATBFT 5/8"BORE This is the one I use what do you think about it.
I can’t find a CMT full Kerf blade with flat top grind and more than 24T for joinery on the table saw. Any ideas?
Kat moses has em on sale this weekend. Gonna try one out
Hi there
Genuine question why can't the diablo be re-ground. They aren't avaliable in the uk but look very similar to our freud blades which can be sent of to be sharpened
They can be sharpened if you find someone who can copy the angles (shouldn’t be hard if they’re a pro). Usually the carbide is thin so your sharpening would be limited.
Switched to CMT , no regrets. Diablo was not cutting square, blade was warping in table saw
I used to get Diablo blades but have now completely switched to CMT. They are the best blade for the money by a long shot.
BTW: The CMT blades do in fact cut easier. Butter!
Great video. Is there any benefit to the ripping blades that say they are "glue line" ripping blades versus the regular 24T ripping blades?
What service or website do you use to get the CMT blades sharpened?
I haven’t had to send them out yet to get sharpened. KatzMoses has a recommendation in the video I plugged at the very end of the video if you want to give them a try.
@@wittworks Thanks, I am excited for your next video about the Etsy track saw DIY square. It seems like a fair price if it performs well.
Thanks. It’s pretty great. Doesn’t look or feel 3D printed.
bit.ly/CentralCitySawSharpening
I doubt that the framing square is as accurate as the TSO GRS-16 Guide Rail Square. If yours is accurate, then you got lucky as most are not. A framing square is used when precision is not needed.
You’re right. Most aren’t accurate. I took my woodpeckers square to the store and picked the best one 🤭
I have my local machinist sharpen my Diablo blades and the cut quality is better than when it was new.
So true with that Diablo packaging. Nicking is almost assured.
🩸
I have been using the 24T for a while now they are without a doubt the best blade for the money no mater the application.
I cross cut with my 24t. Don’t tell anyone 🤫
@@wittworks hahaha no problem me too
I haven't tried anything from CMT yet. I've been using Diablo for a few years now, but I'm really curious about CMT
Thanks Tim! I was the same. Diablo is okay. Mine dulled quickly. I've been using the CMT for a year and haven't had to sharpen them yet.
Yeah I hear ya I'm not beyond tryin to get the best of everything in any area of my shop, but I have a huge problem spending 150 on a blade..matt did suggest CMT to me soooooo I gotta get em maaaan...lol...thanks for upload...well done and fair....
How about track saw blades?
When tooth count is talked about why doesn't anyone mention the tooth spacing or density between a 60 tooth 7 1/4" , 10" and 12" blade. Theoretically a 60 tooth 10" blade should cut about the same as a 80tooth 12" blade. Correct me if I am wrong.
Dirty hands, a state trooper, and an old testament cat hahahaha subscribed!!!!🤣
Nate! You're one of the select few who's caught it (and commented). Thank you! Big things coming in the pipeline...
Hey Witt great videos! Just a heads up…. I’m neeer to woodworking…3 years ish… I learned by watching some other UA-camrs… you can actually clean up the blade with a degreaser type chemical and lightly scrub them… bam… I get double or triple the use from them. You can probably do that with the cmt before sharpening!
yep. ive cleaned them many times, but if they're dull....
I started buying cmt 10 years ago
They are amazing
You were ten years ahead of the curve!
If you have a Menard's in your area, they have CMT in the store. They are a lil bit more expensive but if you hate the ugly red on your project, then it is worth it.
I've had great experiences with the also Italian made Irwin Marples blades. They're right about the same price as the CMTs and Diablos, but they have a tonnn of carbide on them - very resharpenable, probably a lot like the CMTs.
menards by me now carries cmt saw blades!!! Can't wait to try them
That’s huge!
Great video Drew
Excellent. I needed this information.
Nice job. Great presentation.
Thank you TW!
What bout price wise?
I’m sure big Al appreciates the Mention .
You can sharpen Diablo blades as well. Many times.