Great Job Man!! You made my swap so much easier, thanks for this video, much appreciate it. I'll be driving my girl really nice going forward until Arrma figures this out lol. Thanks again!
Get some shims for the input gear bearing, I can't remember the exact dimensions, but east tactics made a good video on it I believe. I did that with my EXB diffs, I found I only needed a single .2mm shim for the ring gear and a .2mm shim put behind the bearing for 0 slop. No binding either. Super smooth. This is with the stock plastic bulkhead. I'm using the coupler as well, since I actually like the design, and I don't have to use loctite for the grub screw... Haven't had it back out even a little bit. The only thing I'm worried about now is the diff internals, since I have a pretty overkill 6s castle system.
As long as you put the rear and front backwards, you can change motor rotation and it still work. But if one in correct and one backward they will spin in opposite directions. 🤙
@@RCKnockout Nope removed it because i stripped the original grub screw i only had shorter ones. I just use the outdrive without the cuppler. It affects nothing
Everything I've heard about these kraton diffs... get the aluminum bulkheads. From what I've heard from just about everyone... once they went to aluminum diff covers the diff problems stopped. One thing.... maybe you should have maybe... idk... torn 1 down and have an idea of what you are doing before you make the video. Ppl come to see it done the right way. Not watch you make the same mistakes they would have made if they never looked up a video on how to do it. Idk.. just my opinion.
Great video thank you for making it. It really helped me change out my bulkhead
Glad it helped!
Great Job Man!! You made my swap so much easier, thanks for this video, much appreciate it. I'll be driving my girl really nice going forward until Arrma figures this out lol. Thanks again!
No problem bro! Glad you found it helpful 😉👍
Get some shims for the input gear bearing, I can't remember the exact dimensions, but east tactics made a good video on it I believe. I did that with my EXB diffs, I found I only needed a single .2mm shim for the ring gear and a .2mm shim put behind the bearing for 0 slop. No binding either. Super smooth. This is with the stock plastic bulkhead. I'm using the coupler as well, since I actually like the design, and I don't have to use loctite for the grub screw... Haven't had it back out even a little bit. The only thing I'm worried about now is the diff internals, since I have a pretty overkill 6s castle system.
Can the Diff Only Go in 1 Way Into the Case? Might Be a Stupid Qustion
Actually I think you could put it in the wrong way. Ring gear goes to the drivers side…it’s a tight squeeze..doesn’t slip in very easily either
As long as you put the rear and front backwards, you can change motor rotation and it still work. But if one in correct and one backward they will spin in opposite directions. 🤙
Are you sure that drill is a proper tool for the job?
I run without the rear cuppler it does nothing than preventing your grub screw coming loose
You don’t run the coupler on the rear?
@@RCKnockout Nope removed it because i stripped the original grub screw i only had shorter ones. I just use the outdrive without the cuppler. It affects nothing
@@EXTREMERC416 there’s just more movement because it’s not clamped to the pinion shaft? But not enough for the driveshaft to come out?
Firs guy to comment and first guy to like
Everything I've heard about these kraton diffs... get the aluminum bulkheads. From what I've heard from just about everyone... once they went to aluminum diff covers the diff problems stopped. One thing.... maybe you should have maybe... idk... torn 1 down and have an idea of what you are doing before you make the video. Ppl come to see it done the right way. Not watch you make the same mistakes they would have made if they never looked up a video on how to do it. Idk.. just my opinion.
Sadly the wing blocked the view of most of the work being done