Hey Rich! Got my EXB last Wednesday....30 packs in😎 I like the performance of the AGF-RC servo on 7.4 from the Max6, thank you for the recommendation. Placeholder Arrma 2050kv motor for now. Broken the rear wing mount at the bulkhead and sheared the bolts into the shock tower/rear diff.....twice! But that was after numerous 40+ mph cartwheels of a kicker ramp😎 Spare parts and HW dual motor fan heat sink enroute. I sure hope Arrma comes out with a Mojave Roller. Off to Ladera Ranch to bash today!
Basically the diff works because the side gears get pushed outward due to their beveled nature when one wheel starts to spin. This pushes on the clutches locking them together. Since some clutch discs are tied to the axle and some to the diff case it slows the spinning of that axle and wheel. I'd be interested to see how well this works in practice though since there is no friction material on these clutches. Can you try to hold one wheel and spin up the motor? If this works properly it should be very hard to hold one wheel while the other spins.
Thanks Rich. Love the way you showed your cleaning and maintenance routines. As for the motor choice, I thought you made that quite clear in your electronics installation video that you chose “what you had available” and had plans to insert a Tekin truggy motor “when you could”. It looks like the roller held up well to a beating and it seems well constructed and durable! Stay safe buddy!👍🤓🇦🇺
Thanks buddy! Yeah, I had some "watchers" get a bit crazy about what I chose for it and they had some insulting opinions about it. Yeah, the EXB did quite well - I've been spoiled on the Teknos as of late, but this one really impressed me
@@TheRCNetwork I definitely agree. I put in the extra time after I run because if something does break or I need to fix something I don't have to deal with a rusted screw or parts that have been neglected for 6 months. I only have 9 RCs but they all run and are in perfect working order. I like knowing I can grab any one of them right now and take it out for a rip.
Holy crap, I am convinced that you are the cleanest and neatest person who's ever delved into the hobby of RC. Watching this was almost therapeutic. LOL
Thanks MM! I agree on the maintenance - I see so many people complain when things break - but they could have caught it if they could see the components on the RC through all that dirt!
Max-2 26S. Nice one Rich! 🤪 Great breakdown. really appreciate the details of the new diffs. tremendous upgrades from Arrma on the flagship Kraton. looking forward to more bash and electronics vids 🤟
That video was helpful I feel like I can tear into the front or center diff now that I saw what's goin on in there. I love my EXB so far it's my first Arrma. I like how u did the inspection of driveline and suspension, I never realized how much better it is if u disconnect the shocks and pinion to get a real good look at everything. 👍👍
My talion chassis is busted and have preordered the EXB today. ETA end of august here in Belgium. Can't wait to have this beast. I'll run it on a hobbywing Ezrun max8 and 4274 motor.
I checked what you said about the diffs only being limited slip in front and center. This statement might be wrong. The part number shown in the manual is for the Limited Slip Diff. ARA310990 for front and back. Please check this. Either you are mistaken or the manual has a misprint.
If you look at the owners manual that I had in the video - the front and center had exploded views of the LSD plates. One the one section of the owners manual, it had an exploded view of the front/rear with the rear noted as having spacer washers in place of the LSD plates. I haven't pulled the rear diff yet, just going off of the manual. As for replacement parts, the front and rear are identical, so I would assume that the part number would include the plates and you would have to determine if you're using it on the front/rear.
I find the squeaking in the rear to be the pillow balls on the turnbuckles. Great looking truck tho, I will likely be getting the 8s Kraton for myself this Christmas season.
Man, I wouldn't be screwing those hinge pin screws in and out with a power tool as often as you are. Great way to strip them and then be up for new arms.
Ryan Inc I only use a power driver for disassembly, usually just for 1/8th scale.....if you have the appropriate driver with a clutch, hex tips and feel for it, you’ll never strip a screw/screw thread
Heads up to those who purchase the replacement RPM wing mounts #81642 for an EXB.....they fit fine with 1 mm removed from the bosses that mount to the aluminum shock tower. Still 3mm of plastic for the bolt head to sit on. More flexy than the OEM.... $17 vs $10 for stock Arrma. More flexible should be better. I see there are billet aluminum arms.......but then what becomes the fuse?😎
Off topic! My friend is having me check out OCRC today and I’ve heard you talk about it a lot. Going to run my short course for some practice laps. I’m very new but I come from the FpV world :)
Sun gears don't spin in there, they are locked in place by the plastic. There is nothing unique about shock lower attachment point. Other brands have been doing that for very long time. Great video!
I can’t decide on what to get a exb kraton or notorious? Kind of even want a xmaxx choices I tell ya are the new exb diffs that much more durable or what?
@@derekquinones8614 In my opinion, get the EXB. If you already have electronics. I have no experience in the xmaxx. If the xmaxx batteries run out make sure you have a hitch for towing.
I was looking forward to this vid! Thank you for the diff tear down. Looks like the internals might not need shimming like the RTRs do 💪 I sometimes have squeaks at the arms too, usually in the rear. They rub on the suspension mounts a bit. Bit of lube or PTFE spray and it goes 👌
Thanks for watching! I didn't see any reason to shim the diffs at this time....I always find pillow ball suspensions very creaky...but on this one, it was the rear for some reason. I will end up using a dry spray at some time for the hingepins
Hey Rich do you wipe down your rcs after every run?? Gotta imagine that would get time consuming to do that after every run. Or was it more cause you were doing a video and also wrenching on it? I usually blow mine off with a compressor and throw it back on the shelf and run it a few more times and then clean it down and I'll move onto another rc and repeat lol. Great video though Rich, really helpful. Appreciate your advice and knowledge 👍🏻🍻
Every RC gets blown off with my compressor when I put them away. If I'm working on it, I'll then wipe it down like you saw in the video. It's very rare that I put away a dirty RC though.
Nice vid again. Got a Kraton V4 with rpm arms, rpm wingmount, stronger servo, chassis braces, t-bone bumper & rpm rear skidplate. Keep upgrading the V4 (when things break) or sell it and order the EXB? I'm not an extreme basher btw. Love the look of the EXB though.
Thank you rich those gears look so much better than the 6s rtr might have to put some money aside for the upgrade to these gears it's so goin to cost $$
I've heard of a few people with this issue - Jason from Arrma is aware of it and has stated it may have been an issue with only some EXB's - He advised dropping in the LSD plates in the rear vs having the diff open
Go to Walmart and buy a case of air duster 6 cans for like 12 bucks in the computer section basically cans of compressed air for dusting keyboards and electronics
Awesome vid Rich , i appreciate the view of the diff . Tech question for you , i have the same servo and receiver that you used ; Did you do any pre programming on the servo or use that switch that came with the receiver . Or can i just install them both like a standard set up and adjust settings through my futaba transmitter . Thanks for your time ...
Thanks RCT! The servo just dropped in, set your endpoints and centering on your Futaba and go. The receiver installs and sets up just like a regular Futaba receiver - I did install the little capacitor, JIC.
I noticed no shim on the gear side carrier bearing. The V4 needed at least two shims, and have read that It seems to be needed for the EXB as well. Your thoughts?
The Maxx is a bit smaller in size (1/110th scale vs 1/8th scale) and contains a ton of plastic in comparison....If you want to be in the Traxxas eco system, or already are (batteries, charger, etc) it might be a better choice. All out durability and performance, I'd have to give it to the EXB
Remember the EXB has no electronics while the Maxx does. You can't go wrong with either TBH. Kevin Talbot, one of the hardest on his RCs on UA-cam may help you make your choice.
I have both, the maxx v2 is awesome and durable but the larger size of the kraton and larger tires make it a slightly more serious machine rocking 6s power. The maxx v2 is an awesome turn key machine ready to go out of the box, battery adapters can help avoid being stuck with only traxxas batteries, both trucks are awesome.
Loved the video! Your maintenance routine puts my quick rinse under a tap to shame 😂 My area is better suited to 10th scale but this is very tempting...
Gotta be careful with running water over an RC, even with waterproof electronics - eventually, the water will cause havoc starting with your bearings, then eventually all the hardware and electronics
I wanted a kraton then seen so many videos complaining about the strength of it. So I changed and decided to get an xmaxx now this beast came along and kinda put pay to these other attempted kratons. Should I still go xmaxx or go back to kraton?
Size is a big factor between the two...also cost of ownership (truck, batteries, upgrades, etc). I haven't driven an XMaxx, but I can say the EXB is probably the best Arrma to date
@@TheRCNetwork I know the price of parts is dramatic on kraton over Xmaxx. But based on the last part of your comment,is the kraton a nice safe bet? Could you take a new Xmaxx and the new EXB and now do a nice comparable. Without the inevitable happening to the kraton.
@@TheRCNetwork I'm using 6s blx 12T gear with a arrma blx 4074 4-pole 6s brushless motor. I'm kinda new to this so I just went with parts that come in the standard kratons. My friends has the same parts in his normal kraton and has no issue's.
There's a bunch of people out there that don't know how to match electronics to RC's.....and with Covid (at the time) it was really tough to get anything
@@TheRCNetwork I hear you brother. You ever scroll down to the very bottom of an Amazon product page and see the questions that people ask? I'm blown away every time. Lol, amazing sometimes.
@@TheRCNetwork noway. My Ofna vehicles from 2005 had bigger diff. They can easily redesign or design it properly from the beginning. 1/8 scale vehicles from those Era rarely strip diff. The limitless and Typhon has the sane size diff as the Kraton and Mojave. That's not right.
@@Victic005 the Kraton was designed first and all else evolved from there….in comparison, the 1/8th race vehicles (Tekno, AE, Lodi, Mugen) have diffs about the same size. I too had several OFNA vehicles (lived right by OFNA/Nitrohouse and the Hyper series had similar sized diffs…..what differs are the quality of metals and the quality of plastics…..not to mention that Arrma users likely don’t maintain their vehicles as well, and drive them a harsher (bash) than a race vehicle.
@@TheRCNetwork I thought the Typhon was first. My OFNA diff from the 9.5 is way bigger. This is back in the days when powerful electric motors weren't yet around.
New to hobby. Slightly confused. Isn't that Tekin 2000kv motor only rated for 4s? I've been looking at the Tekin combo setups, but confused on what motor to get for my EXB. 1900kv? 2000kv? or do I have to go down to a 1440kv if I'm running 6s? Please help. Thanks!
VaporRipper Tekin over-specs their motors. Typically a 2000kv motor should work fine on 6s - in fact the stock 6S Arrma motor is 2050kv. I checked with Tekin about the build and had them look - they said, based on weight and everything, the 2000kv 4038 (longer Truggy can) will be fine on 6s. Now, warranty wise......not sure they would technically warranty it.....but oh well! The 1900kv I had installed is a short buggy canned motor similar to the Tekin T8 4030.
@@TheRCNetwork Thank you. So a Tekin 2050kv should be fine then? For some reason the 2000kv combo is like $50 more than the 2050kv combo at the moment. I'll grab the 2050kv if it will work. Already got a Protek370TBL servo. Building a monster.
VaporRipper the 2050kv is likely the shorter buggy canned motor (4030) - I’d suggest the longer canned 2000kv Truggy motor (4038), which is why the price difference.
@@jamesrobinson4950 and on the stock rtr kraton 6s and im sure many others. idk wheres hes getting "typically 10 gauge is only need on battery wires". my 3s gens ace batteries have 8 gauge.
@@jasondearden1394 yup $60 for the ara311066 and $13 for ara310979 then whatever they charge for shipping and tax so I say around $80 to do each case.....I wanna also say thank you for the new drive line parts and its something that was much needed
On the original release of the EXB, the front and center had the LSD plates and the rear had spacers...which failed on some peoples kratons. Arrma now has LSD plates on all three diffs
Following everyone Who follows me I use my Spark for making content....kinda creepy that you know I have one......but why would someone just “give” a $700 (at the time) drone to someone?
Dustin Blades diffs break due to poor driving and over powering your RC. Mine did not break! 😃👍 Arrma and Horizon is aware of the isolated incidents - most have been due to the incorrect amount of shims inside the rear diff to spot hold for no LSD plates (They’re only in the front and rear). The diff should have 3 shims on each side, I believe (once again inside the diff) - some made it out of the factory with only 2 on each side.
Yeah, not much volume there....besides what was stuck to the top/bottom gears and spiders, I didn't remove any oil. Even when I replaced the oil, I only put in a small amount.
Bruh.....you're on MY channel, commenting on MY video, about MY rc that I RAN! If you're destroying your RC (especially an Arrma) you're either driving like crap or have zero regard to keeping your RC in a functional order. Just saying! 😂
The manual is not clear on how to re-assemble the diff with regards to the plates - Also, when ever people start adding their own electronics, there will be problems (the diffs are the first weak point in any build)...as well as labeling "Extreme Bash" - it seems like it gives people a license to try and be "that guy" that destroyed the seemingly "unbreakable" RC. Everyone is also a broad term - you must mean the 3 people in FB groups that are standing on their soapbox?
@@joshchatwin8179 Honestly, the Kraton doesn't need 8s - I'm even on the fence about 6s - I could probably make this rig run GREAT on 4s with an appropriate powered motor and blow away most on 6s.
Who's getting (already got) an EXB?
Got mine Friday 24th. Ladson, SC.
Im getting one in the Netherlands
Got mind in Boise ID 7/27 just waiting on castle mamba x 8s for it.
DeviousRC 66 why is that?
Hey Rich! Got my EXB last Wednesday....30 packs in😎 I like the performance of the AGF-RC servo on 7.4 from the Max6, thank you for the recommendation. Placeholder Arrma 2050kv motor for now. Broken the rear wing mount at the bulkhead and sheared the bolts into the shock tower/rear diff.....twice! But that was after numerous 40+ mph cartwheels of a kicker ramp😎 Spare parts and HW dual motor fan heat sink enroute. I sure hope Arrma comes out with a Mojave Roller. Off to Ladera Ranch to bash today!
This is one of the most professional Rc videos I have seen. You did a great job putting this “how-to” video together. Very well done!
Wow, thanks! I appreciate the great comments!
I love the clarity and detail of your videos. Great work. 👍👍
Thanks K! I appreciate the great comments!
Best RC videos hands down.
Basically the diff works because the side gears get pushed outward due to their beveled nature when one wheel starts to spin. This pushes on the clutches locking them together. Since some clutch discs are tied to the axle and some to the diff case it slows the spinning of that axle and wheel. I'd be interested to see how well this works in practice though since there is no friction material on these clutches. Can you try to hold one wheel and spin up the motor? If this works properly it should be very hard to hold one wheel while the other spins.
Do RC exactly this! ua-cam.com/video/WeLm7wHvdxQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for the info - and I'll test that out
Thanks Rich.
Love the way you showed your cleaning and maintenance routines.
As for the motor choice, I thought you made that quite clear in your electronics installation video that you chose “what you had available” and had plans to insert a Tekin truggy motor “when you could”.
It looks like the roller held up well to a beating and it seems well constructed and durable!
Stay safe buddy!👍🤓🇦🇺
Thanks buddy! Yeah, I had some "watchers" get a bit crazy about what I chose for it and they had some insulting opinions about it. Yeah, the EXB did quite well - I've been spoiled on the Teknos as of late, but this one really impressed me
You are one of the very few I would have absolutely no hesitation in buying a used RC off of.
You take great care of your RCs.
Thanks for that.....It's a ton of effort, but you get paid back with better performance from your RC!
@@TheRCNetwork I definitely agree. I put in the extra time after I run because if something does break or I need to fix something I don't have to deal with a rusted screw or parts that have been neglected for 6 months. I only have 9 RCs but they all run and are in perfect working order. I like knowing I can grab any one of them right now and take it out for a rip.
@@blindj We have a lot in common there!
Holy crap, I am convinced that you are the cleanest and neatest person who's ever delved into the hobby of RC. Watching this was almost therapeutic. LOL
Thanks Jack! I always like to keep my stuff clean and functional. It makes for good video too!
Great tear down! That diff is interesting. I've got an EXB on order and can't wait to rip it!
Thanks Tony - the EXB is a great truck.......probably my favorite Arrma to date
Excellent stuff, Rich. Maintenance is easily overlooked so it's good to see some best practices here.
👍😎👍
Thanks MM! I agree on the maintenance - I see so many people complain when things break - but they could have caught it if they could see the components on the RC through all that dirt!
Buddy one of the best exb videos without any sendage :) Very informative, excellent communication 👍😎
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Max-2 26S. Nice one Rich! 🤪 Great breakdown. really appreciate the details of the new diffs. tremendous upgrades from Arrma on the flagship Kraton. looking forward to more bash and electronics vids 🤟
Thanks for stopping by Randy!
Just picked up my EXB today, it's an insane beast. I am so happy with it.
Nice! I'm really impressed.....I thought it was going to be just another Arrma with a few sprinkled upgrades
That video was helpful I feel like I can tear into the front or center diff now that I saw what's goin on in there. I love my EXB so far it's my first Arrma. I like how u did the inspection of driveline and suspension, I never realized how much better it is if u disconnect the shocks and pinion to get a real good look at everything. 👍👍
Hey Jason, so glad to help! Thanks for watching!
My talion chassis is busted and have preordered the EXB today. ETA end of august here in Belgium. Can't wait to have this beast. I'll run it on a hobbywing Ezrun max8 and 4274 motor.
Most US places are backordered till August now too - great choice on the electronics!
Got mine a few days ago. Never had a 6S rc let alone a 1/8 scale truck. It’s such a beast! I really want to take mine out on some nice jumps!
you'll be amazed at the power of these things.
I checked what you said about the diffs only being limited slip in front and center. This statement might be wrong. The part number shown in the manual is for the Limited Slip Diff. ARA310990 for front and back. Please check this. Either you are mistaken or the manual has a misprint.
If you look at the owners manual that I had in the video - the front and center had exploded views of the LSD plates. One the one section of the owners manual, it had an exploded view of the front/rear with the rear noted as having spacer washers in place of the LSD plates. I haven't pulled the rear diff yet, just going off of the manual. As for replacement parts, the front and rear are identical, so I would assume that the part number would include the plates and you would have to determine if you're using it on the front/rear.
Great teardown and look at those new diffs! That is the most interesting part of this new roller 👍
Thanks GLRC! I totally missed this in the unboxing - I felt it needed some good air time
Great video as always! I've got one on order can't wait to get it!
Thanks James! Please share your thoughts when your's arrives!
I find the squeaking in the rear to be the pillow balls on the turnbuckles. Great looking truck tho, I will likely be getting the 8s Kraton for myself this Christmas season.
Yeah, it usually is the pillow balls...I wanted to narrow it down
Glad it held up
It did quite well!
Man, I wouldn't be screwing those hinge pin screws in and out with a power tool as often as you are. Great way to strip them and then be up for new arms.
Ryan Inc I only use a power driver for disassembly, usually just for 1/8th scale.....if you have the appropriate driver with a clutch, hex tips and feel for it, you’ll never strip a screw/screw thread
Only half way on video- that is one of the bests..thx !
Thanks buddy!
Perfectly explained and shown as always! more over attantion to the details is more than expected! THANKS!,
Thanks Dato - glad to help
Excellent quality & helpful instruction on what I'll have to do when I purchase the my EXB 👏👍
Glad to help, Craig!
Heads up to those who purchase the replacement RPM wing mounts #81642 for an EXB.....they fit fine with 1 mm removed from the bosses that mount to the aluminum shock tower. Still 3mm of plastic for the bolt head to sit on. More flexy than the OEM.... $17 vs $10 for stock Arrma. More flexible should be better. I see there are billet aluminum arms.......but then what becomes the fuse?😎
Off topic! My friend is having me check out OCRC today and I’ve heard you talk about it a lot. Going to run my short course for some practice laps. I’m very new but I come from the FpV world :)
Sun gears don't spin in there, they are locked in place by the plastic.
There is nothing unique about shock lower attachment point. Other brands have been doing that for very long time.
Great video!
That's likely on the LSD plates......yes on the lower shock mounting - but new for a basher rig - Thanks for watching
These exb Kraton diffs made my notorious a beast of a beast! Arrma did right with the diffs. I know this truggy is bad ask!
I can’t decide on what to get a exb kraton or notorious? Kind of even want a xmaxx choices I tell ya are the new exb diffs that much more durable or what?
@@derekquinones8614 In my opinion, get the EXB. If you already have electronics. I have no experience in the xmaxx. If the xmaxx batteries run out make sure you have a hitch for towing.
"GP4" is Arrma's (could also be an industry standard) term for the Gear "mesh". Just like the Pinion n Spur are "Mod 1"
-Cheeze
Ahhh, could be. Thanks for stopping by!
I was looking forward to this vid! Thank you for the diff tear down. Looks like the internals might not need shimming like the RTRs do 💪 I sometimes have squeaks at the arms too, usually in the rear. They rub on the suspension mounts a bit. Bit of lube or PTFE spray and it goes 👌
Thanks for watching! I didn't see any reason to shim the diffs at this time....I always find pillow ball suspensions very creaky...but on this one, it was the rear for some reason. I will end up using a dry spray at some time for the hingepins
Hey Rich do you wipe down your rcs after every run?? Gotta imagine that would get time consuming to do that after every run. Or was it more cause you were doing a video and also wrenching on it? I usually blow mine off with a compressor and throw it back on the shelf and run it a few more times and then clean it down and I'll move onto another rc and repeat lol. Great video though Rich, really helpful. Appreciate your advice and knowledge 👍🏻🍻
Every RC gets blown off with my compressor when I put them away. If I'm working on it, I'll then wipe it down like you saw in the video. It's very rare that I put away a dirty RC though.
Nice vid again.
Got a Kraton V4 with rpm arms, rpm wingmount, stronger servo, chassis braces, t-bone bumper & rpm rear skidplate.
Keep upgrading the V4 (when things break) or sell it and order the EXB? I'm not an extreme basher btw. Love the look of the EXB though.
Thanks Bob! The Kraton's all around are great
@@TheRCNetwork I see what you did there. ;)
Thank you rich those gears look so much better than the 6s rtr might have to put some money aside for the upgrade to these gears it's so goin to cost $$
Thanks for watching! I agree - the EXB's are quite nice....the LSD plates threw me for a loop on the re-install, but everything worked out
@@TheRCNetwork its pretty cool looking design
Got mine already destroyed rear diff first run after checking it first
I've heard of a few people with this issue - Jason from Arrma is aware of it and has stated it may have been an issue with only some EXB's - He advised dropping in the LSD plates in the rear vs having the diff open
This thing is awsome was planning on getting the mojave next and convert to 8s kraton power system but now this might be the one getting it
There's a possible exb Mojave roller releasing
Craig...yes, I’d love a Mojave roller!
I'd wait till end of next few months to buy an arrma.... roumors are lots of new vehicles and updated versions are being releasing
Yup Jason said around Christmas but I hope they get rid of the pot metal spider gears in the dif
Is there an alternative to the blowing air? I don't have a compressor.
toothbrush and paintbrushes
@@Vergeetmenietje thanks, great idea!
Go to Walmart and buy a case of air duster 6 cans for like 12 bucks in the computer section basically cans of compressed air for dusting keyboards and electronics
Harbor freight has $30 air compressors some times.
@@mynameisfrank6519 I have one of those. Not really worth it. They run out of pressure pretty quick & are loud.
Awesome vid Rich , i appreciate the view of the diff . Tech question for you , i have the same servo and receiver that you used ;
Did you do any pre programming on the servo or use that switch that came with the receiver . Or can i just install them both
like a standard set up and adjust settings through my futaba transmitter . Thanks for your time ...
Thanks RCT! The servo just dropped in, set your endpoints and centering on your Futaba and go. The receiver installs and sets up just like a regular Futaba receiver - I did install the little capacitor, JIC.
@@TheRCNetwork Thanks Rich !!
Great video Rich.
Thanks Jason!
Great informative Vid. Thanks 🙏 Very tempted to Snag an EXB.
It's pretty decent, especially if you have the knowledge to install electronics. You gain a ton of upgrades
I noticed no shim on the gear side carrier bearing. The V4 needed at least two shims, and have read that It seems to be needed for the EXB as well. Your thoughts?
I didn't see a shim and it really didn't;t seem too needed one (just comparing it to my many other race inspired builds)
This or the Maxx? Really wanted a RTR but this peaks my interest!!
The Maxx is a bit smaller in size (1/110th scale vs 1/8th scale) and contains a ton of plastic in comparison....If you want to be in the Traxxas eco system, or already are (batteries, charger, etc) it might be a better choice. All out durability and performance, I'd have to give it to the EXB
Remember the EXB has no electronics while the Maxx does. You can't go wrong with either TBH. Kevin Talbot, one of the hardest on his RCs on UA-cam may help you make your choice.
I have both, the maxx v2 is awesome and durable but the larger size of the kraton and larger tires make it a slightly more serious machine rocking 6s power. The maxx v2 is an awesome turn key machine ready to go out of the box, battery adapters can help avoid being stuck with only traxxas batteries, both trucks are awesome.
Loved the video! Your maintenance routine puts my quick rinse under a tap to shame 😂 My area is better suited to 10th scale but this is very tempting...
Gotta be careful with running water over an RC, even with waterproof electronics - eventually, the water will cause havoc starting with your bearings, then eventually all the hardware and electronics
Great intro rich!!!!! 💯💯💯💯
Thanks buddy! Tried something different
I wanted a kraton then seen so many videos complaining about the strength of it. So I changed and decided to get an xmaxx now this beast came along and kinda put pay to these other attempted kratons. Should I still go xmaxx or go back to kraton?
Size is a big factor between the two...also cost of ownership (truck, batteries, upgrades, etc). I haven't driven an XMaxx, but I can say the EXB is probably the best Arrma to date
@@TheRCNetwork I know the price of parts is dramatic on kraton over Xmaxx. But based on the last part of your comment,is the kraton a nice safe bet? Could you take a new Xmaxx and the new EXB and now do a nice comparable. Without the inevitable happening to the kraton.
Dear friend, what diff type do u use on the rear? Open or LSD diff? Hope you can reply as I am waiting for my new exb from post man.
This was the stock LSD diff, that I didn't;t have an issue with
@@TheRCNetwork thank you sir for your reply!! So yours is basically the 2nd latest batch of Kraton exb 6s?
Did you say 26s ?
yes, yes he did! lol
Yes, and ''Max 2'' lol
Great video. You earned a sub👍🏻
Thanks Yoda!
my exb's rear differential died on my second pack,kinda disappointing.
Seth Morrison what’s your power system, gearing and surface traction? That’s likely the cause of it.
@@TheRCNetwork I'm using 6s blx 12T gear with a arrma blx 4074 4-pole 6s brushless motor. I'm kinda new to this so I just went with parts that come in the standard kratons. My friends has the same parts in his normal kraton and has no issue's.
@@dougk4071 I ordered a locked diff for the rear till parts to make a new one come out
@@dougk4071 www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-Kraton-EXB-Rear-Differential-Spool-Billet-Aluminum-replaces-ARA310985/264826917053?pageci=b8dd1245-6478-4a8f-b57f-d64dcb01b546
How on Earth could anybody scuffle about that motor ESC combo!? I would kill for that in my Talion! Lol
There's a bunch of people out there that don't know how to match electronics to RC's.....and with Covid (at the time) it was really tough to get anything
@@TheRCNetwork I hear you brother. You ever scroll down to the very bottom of an Amazon product page and see the questions that people ask? I'm blown away every time. Lol, amazing sometimes.
Arma needs to design a bigger diff for their offroad vehicles.
Not sure how they can make them larger with out jeopardizing the design...they're pretty much the largest you can make for a 1/8th scale
@@TheRCNetwork noway. My Ofna vehicles from 2005 had bigger diff. They can easily redesign or design it properly from the beginning. 1/8 scale vehicles from those Era rarely strip diff. The limitless and Typhon has the sane size diff as the Kraton and Mojave. That's not right.
@@Victic005 the Kraton was designed first and all else evolved from there….in comparison, the 1/8th race vehicles (Tekno, AE, Lodi, Mugen) have diffs about the same size. I too had several OFNA vehicles (lived right by OFNA/Nitrohouse and the Hyper series had similar sized diffs…..what differs are the quality of metals and the quality of plastics…..not to mention that Arrma users likely don’t maintain their vehicles as well, and drive them a harsher (bash) than a race vehicle.
@@TheRCNetwork I thought the Typhon was first. My OFNA diff from the 9.5 is way bigger. This is back in the days when powerful electric motors weren't yet around.
New to hobby. Slightly confused. Isn't that Tekin 2000kv motor only rated for 4s? I've been looking at the Tekin combo setups, but confused on what motor to get for my EXB. 1900kv? 2000kv? or do I have to go down to a 1440kv if I'm running 6s? Please help. Thanks!
VaporRipper Tekin over-specs their motors. Typically a 2000kv motor should work fine on 6s - in fact the stock 6S Arrma motor is 2050kv. I checked with Tekin about the build and had them look - they said, based on weight and everything, the 2000kv 4038 (longer Truggy can) will be fine on 6s. Now, warranty wise......not sure they would technically warranty it.....but oh well! The 1900kv I had installed is a short buggy canned motor similar to the Tekin T8 4030.
@@TheRCNetwork Thank you. So a Tekin 2050kv should be fine then? For some reason the 2000kv combo is like $50 more than the 2050kv combo at the moment. I'll grab the 2050kv if it will work. Already got a Protek370TBL servo. Building a monster.
VaporRipper the 2050kv is likely the shorter buggy canned motor (4030) - I’d suggest the longer canned 2000kv Truggy motor (4038), which is why the price difference.
@@TheRCNetwork You are correct sir. Thanks for your help 👍 Invaluable. Tekin2336 combo it is.
Where did you get your wire separators on your motor wires?
bit.ly/2WDKuhr
@@TheRCNetwork I ordered those they don't fit, do you know of anything for 10 gauge wire?
I haven't seen 10g versions anywhere......Are you using 10g for the motor wires? Typically 10g would only be needed on the battery wires
@@TheRCNetwork on the hobbywing 1650kv motor.
@@jamesrobinson4950 and on the stock rtr kraton 6s and im sure many others. idk wheres hes getting "typically 10 gauge is only need on battery wires". my 3s gens ace batteries have 8 gauge.
What hex drivers do you use?
MIP - pretty much the best you can buy
Are the differentials interchangeable with 6s BLX differential ?
Yes they are they drop right in they will be able next month $80 to do each dif
You are to use the corresponding input gear
@@jasondearden1394 yup $60 for the ara311066 and $13 for ara310979 then whatever they charge for shipping and tax so I say around $80 to do each case.....I wanna also say thank you for the new drive line parts and its something that was much needed
Thanks so much for that. Can't wait for them to be for sale mate.
@@onemansvideos2134 I have an Outcast, would that apply to mine and well? I know they share a lot of parts
10k is kind of weak no? I’d go heavier
For the center, it is
Could be the sway bar.
Very true - I'll check that. After the video, I put my ear to the inner hinge pin and the outer and it was all the same noise levels....I'll find it!
Hey, she took it!
????
@@TheRCNetwork lol, the beating you gave it.
@@humblerc841 Sorry, I'm slow sometimes! lol. Yes, quite well!
@@TheRCNetwork oh no worries, I'm pretty vague sometimes ! 🤣
Don't worry about what people say. You do you! Tekin is by far better then anything hobby wing makes anyways!
Yeah, she seemed to still scoot along nicely! lol
@@TheRCNetwork yeah I bet she did. Thats a great esc
I thought it was just the center diff that a limited slip
On the original release of the EXB, the front and center had the LSD plates and the rear had spacers...which failed on some peoples kratons. Arrma now has LSD plates on all three diffs
Oh right cool
Hi sir can I please have your DJI Spark fly more combo if you have one
Following everyone Who follows me I use my Spark for making content....kinda creepy that you know I have one......but why would someone just “give” a $700 (at the time) drone to someone?
❤️👊😀epic I love that truck
Yep, it's one of Arrma's best!
Seems like the diff has broken on every truck they made? Wth
Dustin Blades diffs break due to poor driving and over powering your RC. Mine did not break! 😃👍 Arrma and Horizon is aware of the isolated incidents - most have been due to the incorrect amount of shims inside the rear diff to spot hold for no LSD plates (They’re only in the front and rear). The diff should have 3 shims on each side, I believe (once again inside the diff) - some made it out of the factory with only 2 on each side.
We're is all the diff oil 🤣
Yeah, not much volume there....besides what was stuck to the top/bottom gears and spiders, I didn't remove any oil. Even when I replaced the oil, I only put in a small amount.
Ya baby that's how you Clean an RC🚿🛀
Thanks buddy!
A builders dream💀
I agree!
Still has upper arm slop 😬
That's notorious on a pillow ball suspension truck - especially with truggy length arms. Even race quality trucks will have side to side play
Use 5mm washers alongside or instead of the existing spacers
@@yaffajaff Great tip!
Tomorrow....
Nice!
I destroy my craton and put more aftermarket parts on
90% of keeping your RC in working order is maintenance and driving skill.
@@TheRCNetwork you don't even drive your RC car nobody asked you I've been running RC cars before you're even born sunny boy.
Bruh.....you're on MY channel, commenting on MY video, about MY rc that I RAN! If you're destroying your RC (especially an Arrma) you're either driving like crap or have zero regard to keeping your RC in a functional order. Just saying! 😂
@@TheRCNetwork 😂😂😁👋
Everyone is having problems with the diffs
The manual is not clear on how to re-assemble the diff with regards to the plates - Also, when ever people start adding their own electronics, there will be problems (the diffs are the first weak point in any build)...as well as labeling "Extreme Bash" - it seems like it gives people a license to try and be "that guy" that destroyed the seemingly "unbreakable" RC. Everyone is also a broad term - you must mean the 3 people in FB groups that are standing on their soapbox?
The RCNetwork I mean I want one was going to try 8s but then again iv seen few people moan about blowing the rear diff
@@joshchatwin8179 Honestly, the Kraton doesn't need 8s - I'm even on the fence about 6s - I could probably make this rig run GREAT on 4s with an appropriate powered motor and blow away most on 6s.
The RCNetwork it might not need 8s bro but the fact is just like to see what it can do on 8s
The RCNetwork love your stuff by the way
Put it on the shelf....Ha!
Thanks for watching!