Kraton 6s EXB V1 rear diff shimming and replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 лют 2024
- In this video, AJ swaps out and shimms the rear diff for the Kraton in preparation for the upcoming comparison with the Kraton EXB 6s V2. Come along as he walks you through the task at hand and explains the how and why of it all.
Part number:
Pinion shimm used in this video
Calandra Racing Concepts
(CLN) #4738
Music:
Epidemic Sound:
Rockin for Decades; You'll Learn
Helmut; Among the clouds
Videvo Music:
Drafting the blueprint; Agreement in principle, Plan to succeed, Impliment the whole plan, Trademark Quality
CPI014701; Business Plan - Розваги
I literally did this on the Bigrock 6s last night. This would have been helpful yesterday, lol. Nice video none the less.
Great information, thanks
Thanks for the video pretty sure this is gonna get me going again. 👍👍👍👍👍
just put spacers in all open diffs now ,upvoted!!
You can actually get SKF Japan made premium quality bearings, but they cost a lot. But I think they will live much longer than the car itself will. Great video 🥳
Thanks for sharing. Good to know 😎👍
Later Arrma's come with the input gear shim installed. The V5 Kraton did not. I think they figured out if there's a little bit of binding in the beginning they will settle to the proper mesh.
Thanks for the tips, :)
Awesome Vid AJ...🤩 Shimming that input gear is definitely a must in most diffs, especially on the exb's....💯👍🏼
Great video! I have a Arrma Talion, I’ve seen you past videos but didn’t hear what weight diff fluid you use in the front and rear diffs of the Talion. Thanks for the great videos!
He doesn’t like to give that advice because everyone driving and environment different. I’d go 60k 200k 30k ,
With exb diffs I never had a problem with ring pinion , the larger internal diff gear ⚙️ wears , v1 spiral diffs never had a problem with internals but ring pinions wear . I wish they just beefed up ring pinion , I’ve been replacing new diffs with old once they give me problems , there’s like 5 different variations of arrma diffs now I don’t like to put money into a basher with too many hours run time . Filled up they don’t last as long because more resistance, if arrma filled diffs bad drivers could strip the input gear easily.
Thank you! What's the purpose of the sway bar? I have one on the Losi Ten SCBE and have no idea why it's there.
For anyone wondering, you can get the white lithium grease at Home Depot. I have that exact same bottle AJ used.
Keeps it stable in turns and bumps prevents bumpsreer
That’s a good truck
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw It's actually a buggy-style rc. It's often confused w/ the SCTE. I believe they both use the same or very similar chassis.
The sway bar helps prevent too much body roll during cornering. This helps keep the tires planted because as they roll due to body roll the tires do not track the same. Sway bars are a good thing. Thanks for asking 😎👍
Did you change the front differential as well? I’ve heard that if they are not the same it will blow both diffs front and back out.
I’ve never experienced that issue. We’ve swapped out diffs in many RCs and unless the center diff is locked and you’re running on super high traction like asphalt the only thing to look out for is ratio. The gearing (or tooth size) makes no appreciable difference. Shimming is very important however. Thanks for asking. And yes, we have EXB diffs front and rear. 😎👍
Those D safe drives cups with the outer rubber are rubbish.. put those straight machine ones on.. get a new one since it warn out.. my TLR typhon came with those D Safe ones and if you take the rubber off the whole cup wobbles. The rubber was put on to offset the out of balance.. but its not good. I've waited a long time for the hobby shop to bring in some more..because they only stock the D Safe... im going to order more of those updated ones...
Your screws are getting rusted. Dab some quick dry lub like wax or silicone on the screws without rust before the rust emerged.
I spray rigs down with silicone oil after cleaning but eventually rust wins 😂if it’s a rc I’m using a lot ,