Thanks heaps legend. I’ve watched this video at least 60times this week and finally did my DHM cam today with the A racer and AF2. Only think I can add was to zip tie the chain to sprocket so ya don’t have to line it up🤙
Takes me back some 30 years when I would tinker with Mini Cooper engines but this is not back breaking😁👍 So I bought my self a Grom with 67 miles (my birth year as it happens) got my basic bike test next Saturday and my tool box open. Can't wait! Brilliant, clear and precise video, thanks from the other side of the pond in sunny Liverpool 🙋
Thanks for posting. The video they have on the DHM website isn’t very clear and the guy is just rushing through it. Now I know the torque specs too. Thanks.
Mine arrives Tuesday ! We were having good weather in houston and I didn’t want to be without a bike so I waited to send the Ecu back in for the second tune/cam shipment. Now I’m here with everything taken apart waiting for Tuesday to get here like a kid on Christmas lol. Great vids as usual 👌🏽
I see you went with the factory valve clearance, however on the DHM website they recommend a .005" clearance on both valves. May I ask why? Have you tried the DHM settings and found factory to be better?
You actually commented on a reddit thread of mine about installing this (I had trouble getting the sprocket on) . Yeah, I had a _significantly less_ amount of play with that sprocket. Like, around 9:21 or so you were able to get it pretty much on just by pushing it, for mine the tab that sticks out to fit on the notch in the cam barely passed the middle of the cam bolt hole. I could have did this next part myself, but just due to the lack of time to work on it I ended up taking it to a place for a tech to finish it out, they had to open the engine to detention the cam chain for it to get on lol. So long as the tension is actually right this is absolutely an easy install though lmao.
It's strange that people have are having difference experiences with it. I've taken mine off a couple of times now and have been able to put it on with about the same effort as in the video. Did you try holding the chain with one hand and slightly rotating the flywheel to make sure that the chain wasn't caught or snagged somehow? Either way glad to hear you got it fixed, but it'd be great if you could figure out why so you don't have to take it to a shop when you do a big bore kit ;)
I’m getting ready to do a chimera intake and can shaft install while my ECU gets flashed. The last part of the video makes me nervous, do you have a valve adjustment video and can you confirm the spacing they should be? Thanks! Great video though
FYI guys, as long as the tab lines up on the sprocket and cam, it should go in pretty easily. the issue is getting that tab on the cam side to line up. Took me maybe 1.5 hours to do the cam and ecu taking my sweet time with the valve clearances, not bad at all.
Compared to replacing the intake and the exhaust, how much of an effect does replacing the camshaft have? This seems like a job I'd be less than confident doing myself.
Cam makes a pretty big difference, bigger than the intake or exhaust. Doing all 3 together (with tune) is your biggest bang for the buck when it comes to power.
@@jukes4499 I’ve never done only a cam and not intake/exhaust/cam - on the dyno, power curve may shift right but net power is increased across the band.
I can’t for the life of me seem to get the sprocket back on. And of course, I ended up breaking the tab. How much pressure are you pushing forwards, towards the mark? Mine won’t stay on T when I start messing with the sprocket, but I still had the links marked, so it would still be in center correct? I was holding it while spinning, and I didn’t realize it bound, and I bent the tab. I marred up the center of the cam piece where the sprocket goes too, a little. Gah, I’m pissed. I dunno why I was having such a hard time trying to get it back on. Hopefully new sprocket comes in soon.
If the links are marked you should be good, just confirm once it's on that everything is lined up and you can see the circle and carrot on the cam gear and the "T" mark through the window. As you can see in the video, I'm not a big guy but using the needle nose pliers through those two rear holes made it pretty easy for me. How close were you to getting it on? you may want to hold the chain with your left hand and move the flywheel back and forth to make sure nothing is caught up somewhere? As far as the bent tab, can you not just bend it back? It shouldn't matter if that part of the cam is marred up so don't sweat that. Also when putting on the gear, put pressure with your left hand on the gear as you pull it left with your right hand. I was surprised how easily it wanted to slide into place, with everything oiled up it slipped on as soon as it was close.
eastcoastish man, thank you for the quick response. I was doing it the way you were in the video, and they way you basically describe it. It’s like it was so close to being on, bur the actual circle in the middle of the sprocket was just like 2 hairs away from searing on. So I was trying to hold it in place, to keep tension on the chain and rotate the flywheel, to make sure I had enough slack, and didn’t lose my position- I guess that little tab ended up catching and it bound up. It was bent pretty bad, not fixable. I ended up just removing it to make sure that it would still in fact sit on the cam (wirh out the chain) Maybe my leverage was wrong. But I was using needle nose pliers, and I couldn’t get it forward (more towards the front of the bike) no matter how hard I seemed to pull. Hopefully the new sprocket comes in this week. Last time I tried to order parts, literally nothing was in stock. The ease of which mine came off, and how yours went on, I figured I should have no problem. All I want to do is keep trying, and now I wait..... I’ll keep you updated. Thanks again!
So I got it on. Maybe because it’s 30degress ish here, it wasn’t as easy to overcome the cam tension. The cam tensioner seems to be hydraulic, and it is a 5mm Allen head just below the flywheel. I backed it out almost fully and was able to get it on. I’m using the adjustable cam sprocket. The other issue i ran into was, even though I was in TD center, and ever thing seemed to line up, I seemed to be o an different chain link than the one I had (thought) that it originally was. Possibly due to the adjustable cam sprocket, possibly due to me not being 100 certain when I removed it. After a full day of messing with it, triple checking, and deliberating weather or not to fire it up, everything seems to be working ok.
@@CIarkNova is the "o" a full link off? The bike will run bit you'll have manually advanced (or retarded) the timing if its not lined up. Do you have a timing light? Harbor Freight has a $29 one that works fine.
eastcoastish the O on the sprocket, the mark on the engine case, and the hash mark to the right of the T are all lined up. It’s just that I THOUGHT when I took it off, the tooth was on an inner chain link. So the link itself is off from the one I thought it came off of, but again, it’s possible the engine shifted a little when I turned it trying to remove the sprocket, or I was slightly off. Plus perhaps the adjustable cam itself sits different. Which I have set 2.5 marks to the right. The timing marks weren’t a link off, the physical link I thought was the link that lined up as well seemed to be different. I put it back on the link I thought it was, and yes, it was then like a full link off. I made a poston the grom forum dot net. Thanks again for the reply.
I imagine all the parts used on this grom will be the same on my 2022 Monkey whenever it gets here(went from late sept, to late oct and now mid dec ugh)?
The engine stuff *should* be the same although I know the 2019 Monkey and 2019 Grom had ECUs that were pinned slightly differently - the physical engine though, aside from color differences were the same.
HI great video, I did the exact same DHM mods on my 22 monkey. I went from 56 to 60 mph on the top end. How much did you gain? I was looking for more as you gained 16 mph when you did a cam and reflash on your older monkey.
I've only down a couple of miles so far but the idle seems the same and it only seemed a little bit louder - hard to tell since the bike was pretty loud with the Yoshi pipe already...
This is the small (1/4") one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVS4T5 and this is the 3/8" one: www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench-64915.html
I will at some point. The stock gearing feels good right now, when big bore kits and other performance mods come out though I'm sure I'll need to start making some changes on the gear ratios.
Do you mean if you get a cam do you need a flash? If you're running anything more than an intake or an exhaust, you should get your ECU flashed or get a stand alone fuel management system like the aRacer.
@@SimplyKelp No, you can get an ECU flashed for just an intake or just an exhaust or a combo of you want. Check out DHM they have all the info on flashes.
Did you feel a miss of power in early rev range down low when first installing, and if so did it get better as I have stage 2 kit and it has a flat spot from down low in all gears.
@@patrickmarkos7724 if you watch this video I show the dyno sheet after the cam, there is a bit of a flat spot around 6k for me but only for a few hundred rpm ua-cam.com/video/OyCYEm7PiTQ/v-deo.html
This question has probably been asked a bunch of times but in terms of cam install, has anyone had any reliability issues since upgrading? I have a new 2022 and know I want to do intake and exhaust but worried that upgrading the cam could impact long term reliability of the engine even if using one of the high end cam upgrades?
Cam shouldn’t have any reliability issues. It’s just lifting the valves higher than the stock, so you could argue some premature wear on valve springs and overall engine internals with the system having more hp, but if these issues did manifest they’d be after 10s of thousands of miles.
Its lined up correctly to the T mark, because of compression the flywheel wouldn't sit perfectly on the T without holding it. The distance between the T and the F doesn't represent a full sprocket tooth (unlike the CT70 engines where there is much more space between the tick marks) I appreciate the observation though.
This is the second video I've watched about installing the cam and I'm just wondering why not set the timing up correctly before dissassembly. Then you would not have to adjust much? Also, I can't believe that loosening the valve lash can't make this whole process easier? A lot of people like to do videos, but not many of them are real mechanics...lol
I'm definitely not a real mechanic but it's clear you're not either. The timing chain keeps everything "timed," as soon as you take it off, you will need to realign everything to be timed correctly again; "setting the timing up correctly before disassembly" would not make any difference. As far as loosening the tappets before removing the cam, you can do that if you have any issue pulling the cam out, as you saw in this video, the cam came right out and the new one easily back in, so again, no need to do that either. Not sure why you're throwing shade on a video that shows how to do something that you clearly don't know how to do. Cheers.
You will get more performance out of them if you do. With the stock flash you will be running pretty lean. If you do get it flashed, you might as well get the cam at the same time and get the ECU flashed for all 3.
@@quintinfawcett the reset video I did was just to set it to default - for a flash you have to send the ECU to DHM. They explain everything on their website.
I use an impact wrench to just zip it off. But if you use an Allen key to remove the small circular covers, you can get a socket in there to hold it from spinning. You also need to do this to tighten/torque correctly.
Check out this quick video on how to more easily get the cam gear on: ua-cam.com/video/yrMjy8zPosk/v-deo.html
Thanks heaps legend. I’ve watched this video at least 60times this week and finally did my DHM cam today with the A racer and AF2. Only think I can add was to zip tie the chain to sprocket so ya don’t have to line it up🤙
Solid idea. I will try that when I do my install here in the coming weeks.
Did you make a video using that method?
Takes me back some 30 years when I would tinker with Mini Cooper engines but this is not back breaking😁👍 So I bought my self a Grom with 67 miles (my birth year as it happens) got my basic bike test next Saturday and my tool box open.
Can't wait!
Brilliant, clear and precise video, thanks from the other side of the pond in sunny Liverpool 🙋
I just followed this for my install. Really well explained, thanks!
Thanks for posting. The video they have on the DHM website isn’t very clear and the guy is just rushing through it. Now I know the torque specs too. Thanks.
The white loafers with black socks are timeless!
Those have become my official garage shoes.
beat me to it! : )
Keep this upp been following since your first video on the Grom! Definitely gonna do this!!
Mine arrives Tuesday ! We were having good weather in houston and I didn’t want to be without a bike so I waited to send the Ecu back in for the second tune/cam shipment. Now I’m here with everything taken apart waiting for Tuesday to get here like a kid on Christmas lol. Great vids as usual 👌🏽
Great video! Mine will be here next week!
Awesome video man, you helped me out a lot. Thanks!
Wats the top speed after putting the cams in??
I see you went with the factory valve clearance, however on the DHM website they recommend a .005" clearance on both valves. May I ask why? Have you tried the DHM settings and found factory to be better?
I’m running the 0.005” clearance at the moment. I noted it in the pop up in the video.
Really useful video. Thanks!
You actually commented on a reddit thread of mine about installing this (I had trouble getting the sprocket on) . Yeah, I had a _significantly less_ amount of play with that sprocket. Like, around 9:21 or so you were able to get it pretty much on just by pushing it, for mine the tab that sticks out to fit on the notch in the cam barely passed the middle of the cam bolt hole.
I could have did this next part myself, but just due to the lack of time to work on it I ended up taking it to a place for a tech to finish it out, they had to open the engine to detention the cam chain for it to get on lol. So long as the tension is actually right this is absolutely an easy install though lmao.
It's strange that people have are having difference experiences with it. I've taken mine off a couple of times now and have been able to put it on with about the same effort as in the video. Did you try holding the chain with one hand and slightly rotating the flywheel to make sure that the chain wasn't caught or snagged somehow? Either way glad to hear you got it fixed, but it'd be great if you could figure out why so you don't have to take it to a shop when you do a big bore kit ;)
@@eastcoastish do I need to lubricate the cam before install?
Doing it now, think it only needs to go the depth of the tab.
I’m getting ready to do a chimera intake and can shaft install while my ECU gets flashed. The last part of the video makes me nervous, do you have a valve adjustment video and can you confirm the spacing they should be? Thanks! Great video though
Beautiful..
DO you need to change the computer when replacing DHM S1 CAM for 2021 Grom?
You should have the ECU flashed or use a stand alone fuel management system like aRacer RCMiniX
FYI guys, as long as the tab lines up on the sprocket and cam, it should go in pretty easily. the issue is getting that tab on the cam side to line up. Took me maybe 1.5 hours to do the cam and ecu taking my sweet time with the valve clearances, not bad at all.
I think the cam should .05mm on intake and exhaust. for the valve lash.
Yes, that's David's recommendation with the cam, I noted it in the pop up on the video and in the comments.
@@eastcoastish must have missed it! Nice looking forward to your next video with it tuned.
Compared to replacing the intake and the exhaust, how much of an effect does replacing the camshaft have? This seems like a job I'd be less than confident doing myself.
Cam makes a pretty big difference, bigger than the intake or exhaust. Doing all 3 together (with tune) is your biggest bang for the buck when it comes to power.
@@eastcoastish I’ve heard using this cam can reduce low-end torque. Have you found that to be true?
@@jukes4499 I’ve never done only a cam and not intake/exhaust/cam - on the dyno, power curve may shift right but net power is increased across the band.
I can’t for the life of me seem to get the sprocket back on. And of course, I ended up breaking the tab.
How much pressure are you pushing forwards, towards the mark? Mine won’t stay on T when I start messing with the sprocket, but I still had the links marked, so it would still be in center correct? I was holding it while spinning, and I didn’t realize it bound, and I bent the tab. I marred up the center of the cam piece where the sprocket goes too, a little. Gah, I’m pissed.
I dunno why I was having such a hard time trying to get it back on.
Hopefully new sprocket comes in soon.
If the links are marked you should be good, just confirm once it's on that everything is lined up and you can see the circle and carrot on the cam gear and the "T" mark through the window.
As you can see in the video, I'm not a big guy but using the needle nose pliers through those two rear holes made it pretty easy for me. How close were you to getting it on? you may want to hold the chain with your left hand and move the flywheel back and forth to make sure nothing is caught up somewhere? As far as the bent tab, can you not just bend it back? It shouldn't matter if that part of the cam is marred up so don't sweat that. Also when putting on the gear, put pressure with your left hand on the gear as you pull it left with your right hand. I was surprised how easily it wanted to slide into place, with everything oiled up it slipped on as soon as it was close.
eastcoastish man, thank you for the quick response. I was doing it the way you were in the video, and they way you basically describe it. It’s like it was so close to being on, bur the actual circle in the middle of the sprocket was just like 2 hairs away from searing on.
So I was trying to hold it in place, to keep tension on the chain and rotate the flywheel, to make sure I had enough slack, and didn’t lose my position- I guess that little tab ended up catching and it bound up. It was bent pretty bad, not fixable. I ended up just removing it to make sure that it would still in fact sit on the cam (wirh out the chain)
Maybe my leverage was wrong. But I was using needle nose pliers, and I couldn’t get it forward (more towards the front of the bike) no matter how hard I seemed to pull.
Hopefully the new sprocket comes in this week. Last time I tried to order parts, literally nothing was in stock.
The ease of which mine came off, and how yours went on, I figured I should have no problem. All I want to do is keep trying, and now I wait..... I’ll keep you updated. Thanks again!
So I got it on. Maybe because it’s 30degress ish here, it wasn’t as easy to overcome the cam tension.
The cam tensioner seems to be hydraulic, and it is a 5mm Allen head just below the flywheel. I backed it out almost fully and was able to get it on.
I’m using the adjustable cam sprocket.
The other issue i ran into was, even though I was in TD center, and ever thing seemed to line up, I seemed to be o an different chain link than the one I had (thought) that it originally was. Possibly due to the adjustable cam sprocket, possibly due to me not being 100 certain when I removed it. After a full day of messing with it, triple checking, and deliberating weather or not to fire it up, everything seems to be working ok.
@@CIarkNova is the "o" a full link off? The bike will run bit you'll have manually advanced (or retarded) the timing if its not lined up. Do you have a timing light? Harbor Freight has a $29 one that works fine.
eastcoastish the O on the sprocket, the mark on the engine case, and the hash mark to the right of the T are all lined up. It’s just that I THOUGHT when I took it off, the tooth was on an inner chain link. So the link itself is off from the one I thought it came off of, but again, it’s possible the engine shifted a little when I turned it trying to remove the sprocket, or I was slightly off. Plus perhaps the adjustable cam itself sits different. Which I have set 2.5 marks to the right.
The timing marks weren’t a link off, the physical link I thought was the link that lined up as well seemed to be different. I put it back on the link I thought it was, and yes, it was then like a full link off.
I made a poston the grom forum dot net.
Thanks again for the reply.
I imagine all the parts used on this grom will be the same on my 2022 Monkey whenever it gets here(went from late sept, to late oct and now mid dec ugh)?
The engine stuff *should* be the same although I know the 2019 Monkey and 2019 Grom had ECUs that were pinned slightly differently - the physical engine though, aside from color differences were the same.
Looking at the blue one in my area, 4600 to 4900. Bit high
Those seem to be about the going OTD rates at the moment given that they seem to be still somewhat limited in supply.
Good vid , I probably would of done TDC first .. but good stuff!
HI great video, I did the exact same DHM mods on my 22 monkey. I went from 56 to 60 mph on the top end. How much did you gain? I was looking for more as you gained 16 mph when you did a cam and reflash on your older monkey.
did h ever have starting issues without putting that decompression lob on the new cam ?
No issues.
Is it still a normal idle after the cam install? And is the bike louder now? Thanks
I've only down a couple of miles so far but the idle seems the same and it only seemed a little bit louder - hard to tell since the bike was pretty loud with the Yoshi pipe already...
Also what torque wrench are you using?
This is the small (1/4") one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MVS4T5 and this is the 3/8" one: www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/38-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench-64915.html
Would you be willing to experiment with front and rear sprockets to find a optimal (for your bike) setup?
I will at some point. The stock gearing feels good right now, when big bore kits and other performance mods come out though I'm sure I'll need to start making some changes on the gear ratios.
If I just get a reflash, do I have to get the cam?
Do you mean if you get a cam do you need a flash? If you're running anything more than an intake or an exhaust, you should get your ECU flashed or get a stand alone fuel management system like the aRacer.
@@eastcoastish is the cam Necessary if I just want to get a flash? Sorry if I worded it incorrectly im new to all of this
@@SimplyKelp No, you can get an ECU flashed for just an intake or just an exhaust or a combo of you want. Check out DHM they have all the info on flashes.
@@eastcoastish Thank you very much!
what brand is that motorcyle lift?
Harbor Freight
Did you feel a miss of power in early rev range down low when first installing, and if so did it get better as I have stage 2 kit and it has a flat spot from down low in all gears.
It does move the power higher in the band but that’s typically where you want it.
@@eastcoastish right okay, but no flat spots when first riding it? I feel a flat spot until about 5-6k rpm
@@patrickmarkos7724 if you watch this video I show the dyno sheet after the cam, there is a bit of a flat spot around 6k for me but only for a few hundred rpm ua-cam.com/video/OyCYEm7PiTQ/v-deo.html
Yeh that's what I feel only a few 100rpm, hopefully it gets better as you ride
This question has probably been asked a bunch of times but in terms of cam install, has anyone had any reliability issues since upgrading? I have a new 2022 and know I want to do intake and exhaust but worried that upgrading the cam could impact long term reliability of the engine even if using one of the high end cam upgrades?
Cam shouldn’t have any reliability issues. It’s just lifting the valves higher than the stock, so you could argue some premature wear on valve springs and overall engine internals with the system having more hp, but if these issues did manifest they’d be after 10s of thousands of miles.
@@eastcoastish thanks for the reply and the additional info, love the videos btw!
You lined the cam up with F mark, it should be on the T mark bro. The F is for fire and T is for timing. Check the vid.
Its lined up correctly to the T mark, because of compression the flywheel wouldn't sit perfectly on the T without holding it. The distance between the T and the F doesn't represent a full sprocket tooth (unlike the CT70 engines where there is much more space between the tick marks) I appreciate the observation though.
How do you stay married with so many bikes in the garage?
I let her keep as many shoes in the closet as she wants 😂
9:54 Can you not just take the tensioner out, it makes huge difference and it takes you less than 20 seconds
There's no external cam chain tensioner on the '22 Grom (like there was for the previous engines).
hello, if I only install the CAM, will I gain power? Thank you
This is the second video I've watched about installing the cam and I'm just wondering why not set the timing up correctly before dissassembly. Then you would not have to adjust much? Also, I can't believe that loosening the valve lash can't make this whole process easier? A lot of people like to do videos, but not many of them are real mechanics...lol
I'm definitely not a real mechanic but it's clear you're not either. The timing chain keeps everything "timed," as soon as you take it off, you will need to realign everything to be timed correctly again; "setting the timing up correctly before disassembly" would not make any difference. As far as loosening the tappets before removing the cam, you can do that if you have any issue pulling the cam out, as you saw in this video, the cam came right out and the new one easily back in, so again, no need to do that either. Not sure why you're throwing shade on a video that shows how to do something that you clearly don't know how to do. Cheers.
I want to put an intake and exhaust on my 22 grom so should I follow your video to reflash my ecu or will it be ok without doing that?
You will get more performance out of them if you do. With the stock flash you will be running pretty lean. If you do get it flashed, you might as well get the cam at the same time and get the ECU flashed for all 3.
@@eastcoastish so do i have to send it to dhm or can I reset it myself like you did in your how to video?
@@quintinfawcett the reset video I did was just to set it to default - for a flash you have to send the ECU to DHM. They explain everything on their website.
@@eastcoastish ok thanks
Cool videos all the way from EL PASO TX FOLLOW U AND TTORRES 👍🙏
But how the fuck you get that screw off without the chain moving
I use an impact wrench to just zip it off. But if you use an Allen key to remove the small circular covers, you can get a socket in there to hold it from spinning. You also need to do this to tighten/torque correctly.
Nice hair job.
All that for one horse power 😢
Dhm recommends. 003 now for both