Thank you all for tuning in! This video has quite a few different tools and materials, so here is a handy list! Thanks for watching! 🔊🔊🔊 Get wiring for your next car audio build with our show sponsor KnuKonceptz! www.knukonceptz.com/ 🔊🔊🔊 🔨 Recommended Tools and Materials: ✔ Speaker Foam Tape - amzn.to/3Xi5vOy ✔ Air Pump Wedge - amzn.to/4cFMHgE ✔ SoundShield Contour - amzn.to/3XuTgOR ✔ Closed Cell Foam - amzn.to/3MkTwcz ✔ De-pin Tool Kit - amzn.to/3Z09pwM ✔ Hole Punch for Sound Materials - amzn.to/3yR2hIr ✔ Butyl Rubber Tape - amzn.to/471fHhw ✔ Other tools - www.amazon.com/shop/caraudiofabrication As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
It definitely is easier on the hands, and I honestly feel like it is a bit less likely to damage the panel as you are applying constant steady pressure, just my opinion. Don't forget I have it linked in the bio for you. Thanks for watching!
That really is an awesome tip. And the fact that it applies pressure over a greater space minimizes the chance of breaking whatever connects the panel to the door.
Yeah I have a couple of these and never thought to do this. I have some hard to reach spots that don't allow my tool to really pry upward. Thanks for that tip!
I followed these installation instructions for the most part and just no 3d printed mounts used ones from crunchfield and for a first time install went amazing and sounds so much better then my 15+ year old OEM system
I remember when I was installing back in the early 2000's. There was a product made from foam that could be mounted behind the speaker to keep the speaker dry as well as contain some of the air movement and get better bass response. I don't know how well they worked for sound. I do wonder why we continue to use the door panel area as a box when it's clearly too much air for them. If you're printing an adapter, why not make it a container based on manufacturer specs?
You inspired me to do a much better job with my rear door speaker upgrade! For the front speakers I used Infinity Reference 6530CXs and added speaker foam tape to the front and back of the Metra speaker adapter on my 2005 Lexus RX330. For the rears I ordered Focal 165 ACs, NVX XBAF65 Weatherproof Silicone Rubber Speaker Baffle, speaker foam tape, and GOSCHE 197mil Sound Deadening Mat! Wish me luck ; )
A few months ago I did the speaker foam rings and added sound treatment to the back side of the door panels. Oh man it brought my RF Prime speakers to life. Before they didn't sound that great even with my current kicker amps installed but now its quite loud and direct now. I will say Honda cr-v's are not the best when it comes to acoustics from the factory due to the bigger suv/crossover cabin size but also the thin metal that Honda uses. Even adding a full system, it requires a lot more to make it sound good.
@@bananameowmeow9260 I used Stinger Roadkill sound deadening since I have a box left over from a client's project. Behind the speaker I put a small sheet of 8''x8'' on the inner door metal following with the 5-6'' piece of foam from the speaker ring on top of that. The rest of the inner door metal is still bare, but I'll save that for another day. The door panel itself. I applied about 85-90% of deadening material on the back side of the panel. Made sure to not cover any screw mounting points or wherever something might need to be taken apart someday. I did that to all the door panels minus the tailgate (I'll leave for another day as well). After that the speaker ring foams (as I have explained earlier). IMHO it was a night and day difference. My car is slightly quiter down the road. The doors shut solid now. The music doesn't sound echo-y anymore. It's very direct and clearer. Overall I'm happy with the results. Yeah, it sounds "incomplete" but I can only do so much with such little time in the modern age.
Hey Mark, great stuff. Just had a question on the green mounting tape you used at 14:07, what kind of thickness is it? I was hoping to pick up some of the TESA 51136 stuff, but my distributor has been out of stock for months. Looking at getting some 3 mil duct surface protection film, but I'd rather get whatever you used in this rather than take a chance with film that was meant for a different application.
It's a sickness. I suffer from the exact same illness. I've gone through countless DSP's, amplifiers, speakers, single and dual subwoofers plus corresponding enclosures (many). I've also installed and upgraded speaker wires, rca cables, optical cable, many, many times all in the same vehicle. I have added sound deadening, then more sound deadening, then even more sound deadening. I know, the itch has consumed me. All I can say is, you will reach the point of diminishing returns. Most of what I had didn't need an upgrade, but that itch was relentless. However, in reaching that point, I have discovered that by keeping all that equipment, when I get that "itch", I just mix and match different combos of what I already have. It's enough to keep me busy for years. 😂 Also, at this point, I can remove all the body panels, seats, carpet, and dashboard blindfolded, in record time.😂😂😂
@@richardr5888 that's quite a bit of itching haha, I've gone through a few subs, a few amps, a few speakers, brands, sizes and placements, passive and active crossovers, but I have yet to try the DSP, I would hope when that time comes, it'll be my last! Fingers crossed 😂
@@richardr5888 "blindfolded, in record time"....I too know this itch....It'll never stop, BUT, if it does, may they remember my battle cry "THIS IS GONNA SOUND SICK WHEN I'M FINISHED!!!!"
12:57 for any other D.I.Y guys like me, I don't think Mark really mentioned the importance of taking out extra wires. If you don't do it. Then you'll most likely get a humming noise though your speakers that will get louder as you press the gas. It's super annoying.
Just awesome!!! i have learnt so many new Techniques, new tools and consumables from your vids for my latest install.. New Zealand needs installers like you!!
The newer aluminum Ford trucks already have pretty decent sound control so this would probably sound great. Despite all the use of plastic panels everywhere the quality, fit, and the way they are mounted is so much better than older vehicles. Just going over train tracks in my parents old Ford Excursion that we had (miss that beast) thing felt like it was gonna rattle apart.😂 Compared to my dad’s 22’ F-350 there is zero rattling going over bumps, I love it. I couldn’t imagine how hard it must be to upgrade the newest F-150s (and up) with the B&O Unleashed 21 speaker setup. Especially the speakers that are in the headrests. Thing must sound so damn nice though. Makes me want to test drive one just to hear the system.🤣
So glad you shown the karma wire!!! That's the sexiest wire in car audio!! Esp the 12g biwire. I use mine to wire each sub in parallel. No jumpers each coil gets a direct lead! Love that stuff.
I don't think I've seen the "sound treatment" material in your video description... Would you be able to provide a link for that as well? Great video! Thank you in advance!
Thanks for the great info on making my DIY install more professional! Highly appreciate all your good content and shared knowledge! What's the green transparent sheets you used to generate the patterns for the sound deadener material?
Nice video! I have one question, how do you mesure the distance between the pannel grill and the door metal plate so you can decide how much space you have for making the speaker mounts?
It’s would be interesting to see a comparison of materials covering speakers. I know myself and probably some others might be looking to “hide” the speakers. Is there really a difference for the materials and effects on different size speakers. Just a thought.
@@JasonWW2000 I was actually thinking of materials that would cover a speaker grill. My selfish reasons are that I am planning a sound system for a classic car. Having the ability to hide or “camouflage” helps with keeping the look I’m after. A different topic than this one but something I could see interest in.
Do foam rear baffles make a difference? I'm going to be doing every single technique to make my system sound the absolute best, I'm wondering if I should, or shouldn't do baffles?
If I wanted to just replace my front speakers and didn’t install an amp, do you think I would hear a noticeable difference from stock. I have an 18 Accord EX.
I have a 2014 audi s3 I’m upgrading the rear speakers to coaxial speakers but the oe speakers have to 2 way … How can I cancel the tweeter wiring ? As it brings up a fault code Thanks loves you channel ❤
What material are you using to print? I've been using pla, they hold up fine, but my speaker-adapter screws keep coming loose I know PLA isnt recommended for high heat applications
I have an aftermarket system in my 2008 Honda Accord coupe running off of the factory head unit. I have Alpine components in the front and rear run off of an amplifier. The tweeters are just way too harsh and I don't have much adjustability of treble through the factory head unit. Could anybody recommended tweeters that will perform well, but not be so harsh? Thanks in advance! 😊
@@JasonWW2000 yeah, the component sets have passive crossovers that came with the setup. I think I'll give your advice a shot! I might give the L pad a shot first. I truly appreciate your feedback Jason.
WTH!? Are guys really out here just throwing panels around and dropping them on the floor? 😆😆🤦🏾♂️ Sometimes it's nerve wrecking just to get'em off. I enjoyed the video Mark 👍🏾
I see it literally everyday, some people actually take pride in a disastrous workspace, as if a mess and haphazardly ripping things out of a car makes them more official
do i need an amp? Headunit can power 4x50w (allegedly) and front speakers(2way 13) are with 90dB sensitivity. and the rear are with 91dB (16.5 coaxial). Headunit is Pioneer MVH-S320BT front speakers are Ground Zero GZIC 130.2 Rear speakers are Ground Zero GZIF 6.5. The car is old Audi A3
Mark, I have the same 3d printer! I would love to see how you configure your print setup. (walls, bed, speed, and ABS material you use....etc) especially with ABS due to the special considerations you need to make when printing ABS.
I was thinking of installing a better sound system in my car, but after watching a dozen of your videos I'm slowly starting to think that it would be in vain. My car is a twenty year old Volvo saloon. It has a factory installed system of 11 speakers and a 200W amplifier. Also factory Dolby cassette player and 20-disc CD changer. Two speakers in each front door, a midrange and a tweeter. One midrange in the rear doors, two programmable woofers/midrange speakers in the rear shelf, full-range speakers in the front seat headrests and a large subwoofer in the dash. All speakers work flawlessly, as does the programming system, but when playing music louder or playing music with a lot of bass and distortion, the entire front panel and door panels resonate with very irritating vibrations. And when the music is very muted and the trubble is programmed to the maximum setting, the tweeters and speakers on the back shelf start emitting a very irritating high-frequency sound, almost like a dog's whistle. I'll probably follow the advice in this video and add soundproofing to start with. later, maybe if that's the problem, change the wiring... and maybe it's also a problem with something else.
Gary Biggs used that type of cut around the surround on his midbass drivers in the kick panels on the Buick regal and he was a world champion for years. So it must be good.
I find disconnecting the positive battery post works best for me. That way there is absolutely no power running down the positive power wires that can catch grounds while working on the vehicle. You would think that if you where to take the positive power wire while the negative ground on the battery is disconnected and touch the ground on chassis it would cause a short.
Put one of those little plastic battery terminal protectors on Positive (they come with car batteries when purchased) simple! Everyone just disconnects the negative
Thank you all for tuning in! This video has quite a few different tools and materials, so here is a handy list! Thanks for watching!
🔊🔊🔊 Get wiring for your next car audio build with our show sponsor KnuKonceptz! www.knukonceptz.com/ 🔊🔊🔊
🔨 Recommended Tools and Materials:
✔ Speaker Foam Tape - amzn.to/3Xi5vOy
✔ Air Pump Wedge - amzn.to/4cFMHgE
✔ SoundShield Contour - amzn.to/3XuTgOR
✔ Closed Cell Foam - amzn.to/3MkTwcz
✔ De-pin Tool Kit - amzn.to/3Z09pwM
✔ Hole Punch for Sound Materials - amzn.to/3yR2hIr
✔ Butyl Rubber Tape - amzn.to/471fHhw
✔ Other tools - www.amazon.com/shop/caraudiofabrication
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Bro you def do great work . But you are a whole other level of An@l. And OCD. You must charge alot. . Do you have employees?
Using the air bladder for panel removal is pure genius.
That is something I’m definitely going to utilize in the future.
Thanks for the tip 👍
It definitely is easier on the hands, and I honestly feel like it is a bit less likely to damage the panel as you are applying constant steady pressure, just my opinion. Don't forget I have it linked in the bio for you. Thanks for watching!
That really is an awesome tip. And the fact that it applies pressure over a greater space minimizes the chance of breaking whatever connects the panel to the door.
Yeah I have a couple of these and never thought to do this. I have some hard to reach spots that don't allow my tool to really pry upward. Thanks for that tip!
@@Kennyy212 I have a couple of these also and never thought of using them for this. But I will now.
You, sir,are an audio perfectionist/genius! The people who do business with you are very fortunate.
These videos always make me want to take my panels off and clean up existing or past door treatments 😂
I followed these installation instructions for the most part and just no 3d printed mounts used ones from crunchfield and for a first time install went amazing and sounds so much better then my 15+ year old OEM system
I remember when I was installing back in the early 2000's. There was a product made from foam that could be mounted behind the speaker to keep the speaker dry as well as contain some of the air movement and get better bass response. I don't know how well they worked for sound. I do wonder why we continue to use the door panel area as a box when it's clearly too much air for them. If you're printing an adapter, why not make it a container based on manufacturer specs?
Never thought of using an air bladder for panels. So good!
It works really well! Thanks for watching!
bro you do beautiful artwork with car audio
Thank you so much 😀
Oh the air blowie thing was brilliant. Great idea.
They should sound epic with all that preparation. Great job 👏
Absolutely fantastic install methods!
You inspired me to do a much better job with my rear door speaker upgrade! For the front speakers I used Infinity Reference 6530CXs and added speaker foam tape to the front and back of the Metra speaker adapter on my 2005 Lexus RX330. For the rears I ordered Focal 165 ACs, NVX XBAF65 Weatherproof Silicone Rubber Speaker Baffle, speaker foam tape, and GOSCHE 197mil Sound Deadening Mat! Wish me luck ; )
The gems in this video are amazing. Thank you sir.
A few months ago I did the speaker foam rings and added sound treatment to the back side of the door panels. Oh man it brought my RF Prime speakers to life. Before they didn't sound that great even with my current kicker amps installed but now its quite loud and direct now. I will say Honda cr-v's are not the best when it comes to acoustics from the factory due to the bigger suv/crossover cabin size but also the thin metal that Honda uses. Even adding a full system, it requires a lot more to make it sound good.
did you added full coverage sound treatment or just behind the speakers only
@@bananameowmeow9260 I used Stinger Roadkill sound deadening since I have a box left over from a client's project. Behind the speaker I put a small sheet of 8''x8'' on the inner door metal following with the 5-6'' piece of foam from the speaker ring on top of that. The rest of the inner door metal is still bare, but I'll save that for another day. The door panel itself. I applied about 85-90% of deadening material on the back side of the panel. Made sure to not cover any screw mounting points or wherever something might need to be taken apart someday. I did that to all the door panels minus the tailgate (I'll leave for another day as well). After that the speaker ring foams (as I have explained earlier). IMHO it was a night and day difference. My car is slightly quiter down the road. The doors shut solid now. The music doesn't sound echo-y anymore. It's very direct and clearer. Overall I'm happy with the results. Yeah, it sounds "incomplete" but I can only do so much with such little time in the modern age.
Hey Mark, great stuff. Just had a question on the green mounting tape you used at 14:07, what kind of thickness is it? I was hoping to pick up some of the TESA 51136 stuff, but my distributor has been out of stock for months. Looking at getting some 3 mil duct surface protection film, but I'd rather get whatever you used in this rather than take a chance with film that was meant for a different application.
Are these new speakers and the video itself due to that never ending itch for upgrades I'm currently going through? 😂
It's a sickness. I suffer from the exact same illness. I've gone through countless DSP's, amplifiers, speakers, single and dual subwoofers plus corresponding enclosures (many). I've also installed and upgraded speaker wires, rca cables, optical cable, many, many times all in the same vehicle. I have added sound deadening, then more sound deadening, then even more sound deadening. I know, the itch has consumed me. All I can say is, you will reach the point of diminishing returns. Most of what I had didn't need an upgrade, but that itch was relentless. However, in reaching that point, I have discovered that by keeping all that equipment, when I get that "itch", I just mix and match different combos of what I already have. It's enough to keep me busy for years. 😂
Also, at this point, I can remove all the body panels, seats, carpet, and dashboard blindfolded, in record time.😂😂😂
@@richardr5888 that's quite a bit of itching haha, I've gone through a few subs, a few amps, a few speakers, brands, sizes and placements, passive and active crossovers, but I have yet to try the DSP, I would hope when that time comes, it'll be my last! Fingers crossed 😂
@@richardr5888 "blindfolded, in record time"....I too know this itch....It'll never stop, BUT, if it does, may they remember my battle cry "THIS IS GONNA SOUND SICK WHEN I'M FINISHED!!!!"
@@richardr5888😂😂😂 I'm in the same hospital ward with you 😂😂
I saved this video because the consumerism was insane.
12:57 for any other D.I.Y guys like me, I don't think Mark really mentioned the importance of taking out extra wires. If you don't do it. Then you'll most likely get a humming noise though your speakers that will get louder as you press the gas. It's super annoying.
I got that humming after installing my speakers and I couldn’t figure out the source I’m so glad I saw this
Gary Biggs used that diffuser around his JBL midbasses in the award winning buick regal
Just awesome!!! i have learnt so many new Techniques, new tools and consumables from your vids for my latest install.. New Zealand needs installers like you!!
I love your channel.
Wow awesome &flawless instalation thanks for all the tech . These Chanel gets better more & more 👍👍👍🔥🏁🏁🏁😎🙋♂️💯
The newer aluminum Ford trucks already have pretty decent sound control so this would probably sound great. Despite all the use of plastic panels everywhere the quality, fit, and the way they are mounted is so much better than older vehicles. Just going over train tracks in my parents old Ford Excursion that we had (miss that beast) thing felt like it was gonna rattle apart.😂
Compared to my dad’s 22’ F-350 there is zero rattling going over bumps, I love it. I couldn’t imagine how hard it must be to upgrade the newest F-150s (and up) with the B&O Unleashed 21 speaker setup. Especially the speakers that are in the headrests. Thing must sound so damn nice though. Makes me want to test drive one just to hear the system.🤣
Your attention to detail is off the charts. I wish all "professional" shops followed the same techniques.
Not every customer wants to pay for that little extra, they want cheap and fast
So glad you shown the karma wire!!! That's the sexiest wire in car audio!! Esp the 12g biwire. I use mine to wire each sub in parallel. No jumpers each coil gets a direct lead! Love that stuff.
I bought the karma 8 gauge twisted wire and it was thick as 0 gauge 😂
Nice work man
I don't think I've seen the "sound treatment" material in your video description... Would you be able to provide a link for that as well?
Great video! Thank you in advance!
Thanks for the great info on making my DIY install more professional! Highly appreciate all your good content and shared knowledge! What's the green transparent sheets you used to generate the patterns for the sound deadener material?
What fillament are you using to print your speaker adapters?
A car interior can become a difficult environment for 3d printed parts.
Mark, you are amazing and thank you.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate you tuning in!
Awesome video, as always!
Thank you for watching!
Nice video!
I have one question, how do you mesure the distance between the pannel grill and the door metal plate so you can decide how much space you have for making the speaker mounts?
Put a big chunk of playdoh in, put door panel back on. It's dumb but it works. Works good for checking under hood clearance too
@@CarAudioFabrication thanks a lot!
📝📝📝
…taking notes…
Really digging this build- The last build was pretty awesome, but really digging this one..
Glad you like it! Appreciate you watching
It’s would be interesting to see a comparison of materials covering speakers. I know myself and probably some others might be looking to “hide” the speakers. Is there really a difference for the materials and effects on different size speakers. Just a thought.
@@JasonWW2000 I was actually thinking of materials that would cover a speaker grill. My selfish reasons are that I am planning a sound system for a classic car. Having the ability to hide or “camouflage” helps with keeping the look I’m after. A different topic than this one but something I could see interest in.
Do foam rear baffles make a difference? I'm going to be doing every single technique to make my system sound the absolute best, I'm wondering if I should, or shouldn't do baffles?
is there a video coming on those customer A pillars?
Of course! That's what I said when I showed them.
Just was about to install speakers lol
Then have I got some tips for you!
I’m about to get these speakers. What do you think of them?
There Focal can't go wrong, guessing your in the US ? Lucky your not in Australia mate there double the price lol
@@Reflect744 thanks. I’m in UK mate, costing about £290 a pair
nice tips
What was the green clear tape?
Where are you located? I would love for you to do my car this good!
If I wanted to just replace my front speakers and didn’t install an amp, do you think I would hear a noticeable difference from stock. I have an 18 Accord EX.
worse case scenarios is add a built in amp dsp to amplify and fine tune your new speakers
What filament did you use? ABS?
I have a 2014 audi s3 I’m upgrading the rear speakers to coaxial speakers but the oe speakers have to 2 way …
How can I cancel the tweeter wiring ? As it brings up a fault code
Thanks loves you channel ❤
How do you like the focal speakers?
Nice install!
Thank you!
@@CarAudioFabrication you always do excellent installations! Keep up the great work!
Pump it up !! Pump the jam while the beats are pumpin!😂😂
What gauge ng wire? Is it AWG 16?
Watching you take the door panels off is like those chiropractor videos 😂
"Until you get that release" 😅😂 just like a chiropractor lmfao
Hi, where do you get that green sheet from to draw cutout templates?
JK Tapes
woot!
What sound treatment material are you using for the speaker opening and behind the speaker?
请问打印得底座用啥材料?What material is used for the base? pla?
Focal car audio
I got FOCAL in the front doors on my V70 2005, they sound amazing!!
@2:56 Wild "Woobie" spotted.
Where can we get those speaker adapters?
Is there a speaker adapter so that car door speakers can be put on an angle where it face drivers ears instead of his legs?
@@Ashok_kumar_Dolka if you have access to a 3d printer, just adjust the model design to be angled
Are you using Knukonceptz's karma wire? How many conductors did you go with?
For getting speaker signal from the rear to the front yes. Will be 8 channels worth
@@CarAudioFabrication I saw a video you used Karma for an active but can't find the series.
Where can I get custom a pillars for a 2017 Ford F-350
What material are you using to print?
I've been using pla, they hold up fine, but my speaker-adapter screws keep coming loose
I know PLA isnt recommended for high heat applications
Nevermind, I see you used the heat set inserts
I just straight up screwed them into the print
Discussed in the previous 3d printing video
@@CarAudioFabrication oh snap, say no more thank you
I have an aftermarket system in my 2008 Honda Accord coupe running off of the factory head unit.
I have Alpine components in the front and rear run off of an amplifier. The tweeters are just way too harsh and I don't have much adjustability of treble through the factory head unit.
Could anybody recommended tweeters that will perform well, but not be so harsh? Thanks in advance! 😊
@@JasonWW2000 yeah, the component sets have passive crossovers that came with the setup.
I think I'll give your advice a shot!
I might give the L pad a shot first.
I truly appreciate your feedback Jason.
@@JasonWW2000 you're the best
The stuff you don't see makes a big difference
Definitely
WTH!? Are guys really out here just throwing panels around and dropping them on the floor? 😆😆🤦🏾♂️ Sometimes it's nerve wrecking just to get'em off. I enjoyed the video Mark 👍🏾
I see it literally everyday, some people actually take pride in a disastrous workspace, as if a mess and haphazardly ripping things out of a car makes them more official
do i need an amp? Headunit can power 4x50w (allegedly) and front speakers(2way 13) are with 90dB sensitivity. and the rear are with 91dB (16.5 coaxial). Headunit is Pioneer MVH-S320BT front speakers are Ground Zero GZIC 130.2 Rear speakers are Ground Zero GZIF 6.5. The car is old Audi A3
I have a couple of car audio questions that I don’t think you have touched on. How do I get questions to you?
This can be further improved by lining the door card with a wool felt.
Mark, I have the same 3d printer! I would love to see how you configure your print setup. (walls, bed, speed, and ABS material you use....etc) especially with ABS due to the special considerations you need to make when printing ABS.
Check out the video! It's a few back from this one on the channel, I covered it in detail. Thanks for watching!
I was thinking of installing a better sound system in my car, but after watching a dozen of your videos I'm slowly starting to think that it would be in vain.
My car is a twenty year old Volvo saloon.
It has a factory installed system of 11 speakers and a 200W amplifier. Also factory Dolby cassette player and 20-disc CD changer. Two speakers in each front door, a midrange and a tweeter. One midrange in the rear doors, two programmable woofers/midrange speakers in the rear shelf, full-range speakers in the front seat headrests and a large subwoofer in the dash.
All speakers work flawlessly, as does the programming system, but when playing music louder or playing music with a lot of bass and distortion, the entire front panel and door panels resonate with very irritating vibrations. And when the music is very muted and the trubble is programmed to the maximum setting, the tweeters and speakers on the back shelf start emitting a very irritating high-frequency sound, almost like a dog's whistle.
I'll probably follow the advice in this video and add soundproofing to start with. later, maybe if that's the problem, change the wiring... and maybe it's also a problem with something else.
Hey Mark, Looks like you need another workbench, to punch those Holes out. Save the Floor and your Knees!?
Gary Biggs used that type of cut around the surround on his midbass drivers in the kick panels on the Buick regal and he was a world champion for years. So it must be good.
If you look at any OEM speaker it's there... a must have!
I need those speaker adapter brackets for my truck with the same setup. Can I buy some from you? 😅
Sure! Email on the site
👍
I find disconnecting the positive battery post works best for me. That way there is absolutely no power running down the positive power wires that can catch grounds while working on the vehicle. You would think that if you where to take the positive power wire while the negative ground on the battery is disconnected and touch the ground on chassis it would cause a short.
Put one of those little plastic battery terminal protectors on Positive (they come with car batteries when purchased) simple! Everyone just disconnects the negative
Rockford fosqate. P3 subwoifrer box Dugan
Come to FL this winter. I've got an install for ya. It needs some of your ingenuity.
jeeez, makin my install feel lame lol
Would the foam around the speaker run any risk of rubbing on the cone of the speaker itself?
I don't like the corrugated foam. Give me the p!ain Jane one I don't care about wrinkles.
Why worry so much about sealing everything up airtight when the door itself has tons of large holes and is nowhere near airtight?
He said he was going to do a whole treatment later.
where can I find that green plasric/tape u used?
JK interior protection tape