Top 10 Climbing Training Mistakes I See ALL the Time
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- Опубліковано 22 тра 2024
- For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: www.hoopersbeta.com/
In this episode we go over the top 10 climbing training mistakes. Note, these are general mistakes that people make, not specific examples of one particular move that you should or should not do. These are guidelines that can be used to improve everyone's training and at all levels.
Show notes:
1) Not getting enough sleep.
Sleep is when we heal. Sleep is when we refine and maintain motor control . Getting less than 6 hours of sleep can lead to physical exhaustion happening earlier in our workouts and training. Also, increased sleep has been studied and shown to lead to a decreased chance of injury published research in 2014
2) Not enough recovery time
Your body needs to recover and heal fully. If you are climbing on healing tissue, you are increasing the chance to injure yourself. If you are climbing multiple days in a row, give yourself a couple days off
. Allow your body to build back up after you break it down, or you cannot train as hard as you should, and as such are not applying the appropriate forces for your body to get stronger. This will vary from person to person based upon many factors (sleep, diet, how long you have been training, genetics, etc).
3) Poor diet
How dedicated are you to your progress? A common response I see, not just in climbing (and even sometimes in myself!) is justifying poor eating habits due the fact that we are active with climbing. How many times have you said to yourself "I deserve this cookie, I climbed hard today". If you are serious about climbing, get serious about your diet. No, I will never say don't eat that cookie (ice cream is my weakness, to be honest), BUT you need to monitor how often you are doing this and moderate your eating.
4) Not tracking workouts and progression
Not everyone will buy into this right away, but the reason why this is important is that you need to know what works for you. Just because it works for 1 person doesn’t mean it will work for everyone. Only way to know? Write it down
, track your progress. Don't go overboard and stop your workout every time something happens but rather track your weights and/or reps, track if and see if you could arrange the workout better, and then reflect. Look back. Did you get the changes you wanted to see?
5) Not setting realistic goals with training
You don’t hop off the couch and become a professional baseball player, just like you don’t hop off the couch and climb V14. Set goals and make them realistic
. A great way to do this is to use SMART goals. SMART goals are Specific, Measurable, Attainable/achievable, Realistic, and on a Timeline.
So, set SMART goals for yourself, work on those goals, write down your success and failures, then make your next goal based upon your timeline.
6) Focusing on outliers
Everyone knows someone who can do some ridiculous amount of training, or some crazy maneuver, don’t chase these outliers. Listen to your body, do training appropriate for you.
7) Only chasing fatigue
Everyone wants to hit that high level of fatigue thinking that is the only way to get stronger. We feel like it is the only way we know we have had a successful training day, but this is not true. Sometimes rather than just chasing fatigue, which is when your form may suffer, have days where you are chasing technique and using LESS energy for your movements. What about working on your mobility? You don't need to chase fatigue to feel a great stretch but that doesn't mean it isn't really important to your progress in climbing. Don't let fatigue define the success of your training every day.
8) Not giving training enough time
Physical adaptations TAKE TIME. If you are starting a new program, see it through. And remember, write it down! Yes, how you look and feel at the end of a training program is also important, but did you hit your goals? At the end watch your progress and also consider how dedicated you were
9) Ego defined training
We all like to think that we can do anything. We can lift heavy weights, we can train 6x/week, we can run as long as we want. While it’s good to be confident, if your ego is too big, you can cause yourself to get injured by doing too much.
10) Being the strongest climber in your group
Don’t get complacent, get out of routine, climb with people stronger than you, work on different styles of climbing, etc. If you’re the strongest person in your group of friends, you may not be pushing yourself to the next level. You should always have fun with climbing and climb with your friends, but don't reject an opportunity to climb with stronger people, it may make you stronger!
For more info visit RockTherapyPT.com
Instagram: @rocktherapypt
Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
Instagram: @emile166 - Спорт
Found this channel yesterday, I've been binging everything. Fantastic content
loved the progress bar in the bottom
I needed the last two so bad! Thank you.
I was looking for running and climbing and his video popped up. I really started liking his videos very much. Very informative.
I love these videos! Coming from powerlifting and bodybuilding I really appreciate your approach and your knowledge on muscle building, nutrition, periodization, mental aspect and so forth. Most of climbers or even climbing coaches don't have such a round knowledge on human body.
Absolutely nailed it in my opinion. You turned these pitfalls around into clear advise. Keep up the great work!
Another great advise I heared in another video I would like to share here:
Do not say negative absolute statements to yourself. Believe in the difference between
"I can not do this." and
"I cannot do this, YET."
The same goes for:
"I am a V5 climber" and
"The best I did SO FAR was a V5."
Think about what you are saying to yourself and how it affects you. Choose your fighter:
a) "This felt horrible, because I failed. I hate slopers. It is impossible for me to hold this sloper. I am weak. I will never be able to do what this guy can do. I don't want to fall off again in front of my friends. I need to crush a V1 to feel better. I hate myself for skipping the last training session for no good reason."
b) "It was exciting to try a V7 for the first time. I can only be sure that it is too hard, if I try. It being a V7 means it is supposed to be too hard for me to get it first go. I can try to figure out one more move, which would be a success. It being a V7 means there is something to learn for me. Did I already learn something on my first try? How great would it feel to be able to do this after half a year of additional training! Last year, I did not even manage a V3, today I flashed three of them."
I totally agree with you. It's about how does your brain is programmed !
This advice can be also applied in daily life, where you try to see the positive.
Thank you for sharing this advice, it's a very important one for motivation !
Love the timeline!
thanks for making these awesome videos and keeping them short and to the point
I appreciate you saying that! Keeping them short is definitely a challenge lol but thank you for watching.
I’m guilty of most of these. I do try and climb with people who are way better than me for all the reasons you stated. They push me, they guide me, and they also encourage me.
Great video, concise, and I agree with all your points. I think its important to note that ego can be a great motivating force, but does come with the pitfalls you mentioned. Thanks for your content!
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I agree. With climbing you definitely need to have confidence lol, you just have to curb it in other arenas.
@@HoopersBeta 3 years later this vid is absolutely wonderful:)
Amen!!! It took me a couple of years of training to realize most of these and surely i am still an offender of some. Such a great video! Thank you!
Absolutely! Takes a long time to really "master" training and we always have some room for improvement (even when we know better ;) hah)
Love the icons in the timeline :)
section 3 was way less fun than I thought it was going to be.
The bloopers are so relatable 😂
This not only a climbing tips these are life tips
I was a V4 teen climber at one point
Definitely guilty of the 'chasing the pump' mistake, thinking that because I didn't feel the forearm pump after an hour of climbing that meant I had greater endurance so I would extend my session until 2 hours. After too much of these sessions I was left with a little improvement and a whole shoulder/bicep injury. Not worth it!
Do you have any more resources for diet?
Hey there! Love the video. You mentioned how 3 or 6 days of training is less than ideal than 4 or 5. Was this on a 1 week timeline?
Yes. The research I am referring to was based on a weekly timeline.
@@HoopersBeta Is this still the case for beginners? i’ve always been told beginners should do 3 max
@@danielpeshev9875 That's because the tendons and muscles aren't used to the stress yet, and if you do more, you get a higher risk of injury. Tendons also need longer to develop than muscles, so bear that in mind also.
here for the #HoopersBloopers nice haircut!
Haha. Love the hashtag.
I only agree with #5 and #7, all the rest are for people who want to climb competitively. I climb to relax and have fun! Not fussed about the grade and cake after training is part of that.
"Cake After Training" should be on a t-shirt ;)
Was this filmed at The Wall climbing gym in Vista, CA?
Yep!
And alway remember:
Train, sleep, recover, climb, eat, track, set goals, focus, stay balanced, send, be consistent and reflected, surround yourself with a bunch of bro's and sis's and repeat 😄👌yeah its that simple
So easy! Haha
how can one train 4 to 5 days a week? I don't understand. I can climb one day then it takes my forearms and grip 2 days minimum to recover. Then hangboard after recovery. Is there some secret?
Different targets and different muscle groups. That's great that you know your body and can take effective breaks!
Well, these are not bad tips for beginners, but would be nice if you had actually included some climbing-specific tips. 10/10 of these apply to any sport
Number 11 : have fun !
Quick question, at 2. Recovery time, is it 3 / 4-5 / 6 days... a week? Or?
Thanks! :)
Some research suggests that 4-5 days of training is ideal, with 3 days or fewer being too little and 6 days or more being too much.
-Emile
While this video should have 10k views, people will still be looking at magnus vlog (or whatever else...) thinking that this is what they should do...
Just gotta keep trying to spread the word! Thank you for the support. We will keep grinding and eventually it will have 10k+ views 😉
this guy is more dreamy than magnus anyway
@@HoopersBeta Almost at 10k now :) :)
@@HoopersBeta pushing 50k now 🙂
How much sleep should you get?
Tough question. Enough to feel rested? 🤷♂️
-Emile
For recovery time, do you mean 4-5 days per week?
It entirely depends on the workout you did that day. Light aerobic endurance like ARC can be programmed several days in a row. If you did a full blast hangboard session along with complementary exercises it could take up to 72 hours to recover. In general just feel out how your body feels.
@@TurriPi great response! You're correct. I would only add that it definitely depends on the activities you're doing. Say, for example, you go crazy with climbing 4 days. That doesn't mean you can then go swimming, do a crazy leg day, and then do a long core circuit. You're switching the exercise but your body still has to heal all of that breakdown. So most definitely, the activity you do does matter. Thanks for the comment and replying to their question!
no 4-5 days per year.
DOC you look SUPER handsome in this video
Sure, the video was great, but that haircut? Stole the damn show. :)
wow. 0 dislikes. never seen that before. bonkers. lol
The key is 6 eggs after a full climbing day.
The only way to ensure proper recovery 😅
Stir them into your chalk bag so your hands absorb the protein as you climb
@@kunstkt eat chalk for natural chalk production in fingers