Actually, best hangboard routine I found for me. I was unable to hang ot 20mm with bodyweight before 2 months, now I do max hangs with 10kg and I feel I can do more, but dont want to injury so progressing slowly Now I need to fix mental game THANKS A LOT
I remember Dave MacLeod saying (I think in his "how to hangboard" video) that you're fine with 45-90sec rests for 7-10sec max hangs because time under tension is low and you activate only a relatively small muscle group, compared to e.g. 5 weighted pull-ups that take at least 30sec and require the whole upper body to go almost max. effort. I personally do quite well with 60sec rests so far, but my hangboard experience is admittedly limited. Is there some research that tells us that the standard 3-5 min breaks of max strength workouts should also be applied when hangboarding?
There has been research related both to general physiology of max efforts and with hangboard protocols such as with Dr. Eva Lopez. Our physiology tells us that if we are producing an effort that will cause failure around 10 seconds, we are using an energy system (the phosphocreatine system) that will take longer to recover. We also know that to promote the best adaptations we want to load as much healthy force as possible. Loading the tissue when it is not at it's optimum may not produce optimal results. Only way to truly tell is if you were using a crane scale and measuring your force production with exact reproduction with the variable being the rest time. Of course, there's always variability between persons, but 3-5 min is generally accepted rest for max efforts. Great question!
What's you're stance on doing the lattice one arm 90% max hang protocol before climbing or in the morning and them climbing after a 6-8 hour break? Thanks in advance, Love the content!!!
Not related to that specific protocol, but it is OK to do hangboarding in the morning and then climb in the evening (after 6-8 hours) but I wouldn't plan on your climbing to be a max effort/limit session, but rather a mastery session.
So it really depends on your training goals. If you are trying to improve strength, then you don't want to chase the pump. If you are trying to improve endurance, then that is more appropriate and you want to feel the burn. If you are training for hypertrophy, that is another time when you should feel fatigue/burn. Even with power training you need to be careful not to chase the pump because power requires a ton of rest in between movements so you may not feel super wrecked or burnt out after because that shouldn't be the goal, and isn't the way to build more power.
Hi, so when you climb after the hang board session does it have to be lower intensity, would you run the risk of injury or overtraining if you tried to complete hard boulders afterwards?
So I noticed that the workout that is designed to replace a climbing session requires 48 hours of rest but this one, you can go climbing same day. I can currently get to the gym about 3 times a week. If I want to add hangboarding on days inbetween, should I use this workout or the longer one designed to replace a session? Thanks!
Just started this training to try out (to replace hour long max hang sessions). How long should the rests be between rounds? And do you think I can incorporate a longer max hang session one time per week for more benefit or will that not be necessary if I do this workout twice a week?
The thumbnail almost made it seem like we'd get to see you climbing? Can you add some random climbing clips to some videos? It's nice to see you on a hangboard but how all this training transfers to your climbing would be interesting.
Jason has a severe lack of footage of himself climbing. This is something we’re working to remedy. But also climbing and enjoying the great outdoors > filming yourself climbing 😉 - Emile
@@HoopersBeta Fair! I keep meaning to get footage of myself climbing, if only to review my shortcomings(?) but I get so caught up in climbing it never even comes close to happening!
If you just did a hard day of climbing I wouldn't recommend it because your tissue is going to still be in recovery mode. That, of course, depends on the style of hangboarding you want to do or the intensity of the climbing you did the day prior but generally not ideal.
There's no cookie cutter way to do it. Depends on your experience, prior strength, etc. The safe bet is to start with a low amount of weight and do all your sets with it. If you are exceeding the threshold each time while maintaining good form, it's a good indication you can go lower. If you're newer, instead of adding weight, working through the minimal edge protocol is also a good idea. Check out the show notes on our site, also, I go into more detail about all of that. Cheers.
Hey Hooper, i know with a normal hang board routine you should rest 48-72 hours, is that the same with this one? You said this can be done before climbing, but lets say im on a trip and im climbing every day can I do this hang board routine every day with my climbing?
Same goes for standard routines, should be 48-72 hours rest in between. If you're on a climbing trip and climbing every day I would not do any additional hangboarding. Hangboarding is training and this routine is meant to amp your training up. But definitely not needed on a climbing trip where you are climbing multiple days.
@@HoopersBeta isn't that conflicting? if this hangboard routine is meant as a supplement to your climbing / training, you should be able to add it to your outdoor climbing trip as a warm up as well. So is that routine meant as a supplement to your every-day climbing session as part of a warmup? Or for your 'training days' within your week only?
@@moritzjonathan836 it's a training not a warm up, you should warmup before doing this handboard routine. On a climbing trip you don't train, you just climb.
Actually, best hangboard routine I found for me. I was unable to hang ot 20mm with bodyweight before 2 months, now I do max hangs with 10kg and I feel I can do more, but dont want to injury so progressing slowly
Now I need to fix mental game
THANKS A LOT
Production quality on these videos are fantastic and the content as always is super insightful. Keep up the great work guys !
Really nice videos you guys make, high quality content and editing. Hope your channel picks up in views, you guys really deserve it!
This is helpful, cuz I'm trying to figure out how to schedule hangboarding and climbing.
great video thanks, I always do my hangboard before climbing :) I like to warmup between sets by climbing some easy boulders too
Nice! That's another great idea. Leon is on top of the hangboard game.
YES! Great video topic! Thanks y'all
Really nice! Gonna test it tomorrow!
I've never heard of those nordic curls, I'll have to try those!
Definitely! They are easily a favorite of mine.
@@HoopersBeta What makes this program specifically meant for climbing the same day? Is it just less time spent on the max strength hangs?
I remember Dave MacLeod saying (I think in his "how to hangboard" video) that you're fine with 45-90sec rests for 7-10sec max hangs because time under tension is low and you activate only a relatively small muscle group, compared to e.g. 5 weighted pull-ups that take at least 30sec and require the whole upper body to go almost max. effort. I personally do quite well with 60sec rests so far, but my hangboard experience is admittedly limited. Is there some research that tells us that the standard 3-5 min breaks of max strength workouts should also be applied when hangboarding?
There has been research related both to general physiology of max efforts and with hangboard protocols such as with Dr. Eva Lopez. Our physiology tells us that if we are producing an effort that will cause failure around 10 seconds, we are using an energy system (the phosphocreatine system) that will take longer to recover. We also know that to promote the best adaptations we want to load as much healthy force as possible. Loading the tissue when it is not at it's optimum may not produce optimal results. Only way to truly tell is if you were using a crane scale and measuring your force production with exact reproduction with the variable being the rest time. Of course, there's always variability between persons, but 3-5 min is generally accepted rest for max efforts. Great question!
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the detailed answer! I'll try out resting a bit more in the next sessions then :)
really useful video.
Yay! Glad to hear it
What's you're stance on doing the lattice one arm 90% max hang protocol before climbing or in the morning and them climbing after a 6-8 hour break?
Thanks in advance,
Love the content!!!
Not related to that specific protocol, but it is OK to do hangboarding in the morning and then climb in the evening (after 6-8 hours) but I wouldn't plan on your climbing to be a max effort/limit session, but rather a mastery session.
When should we chase a pump in climbing training/bouldering?
So it really depends on your training goals. If you are trying to improve strength, then you don't want to chase the pump. If you are trying to improve endurance, then that is more appropriate and you want to feel the burn. If you are training for hypertrophy, that is another time when you should feel fatigue/burn. Even with power training you need to be careful not to chase the pump because power requires a ton of rest in between movements so you may not feel super wrecked or burnt out after because that shouldn't be the goal, and isn't the way to build more power.
Hi, so when you climb after the hang board session does it have to be lower intensity, would you run the risk of injury or overtraining if you tried to complete hard boulders afterwards?
So I noticed that the workout that is designed to replace a climbing session requires 48 hours of rest but this one, you can go climbing same day. I can currently get to the gym about 3 times a week. If I want to add hangboarding on days inbetween, should I use this workout or the longer one designed to replace a session? Thanks!
Just started this training to try out (to replace hour long max hang sessions). How long should the rests be between rounds? And do you think I can incorporate a longer max hang session one time per week for more benefit or will that not be necessary if I do this workout twice a week?
+25% on a 15mm edge!!??!!
Jaysus Hoop! How hard do you climb?
Not hard enough.
@@HoopersBeta isn't that always the case
@@ryanj9571 lol sadly yes, you are correct.
The thumbnail almost made it seem like we'd get to see you climbing? Can you add some random climbing clips to some videos? It's nice to see you on a hangboard but how all this training transfers to your climbing would be interesting.
Jason has a severe lack of footage of himself climbing. This is something we’re working to remedy. But also climbing and enjoying the great outdoors > filming yourself climbing 😉
- Emile
@@HoopersBeta Fair! I keep meaning to get footage of myself climbing, if only to review my shortcomings(?) but I get so caught up in climbing it never even comes close to happening!
Any thoughts on hangboard after a day of climbing?
If you just did a hard day of climbing I wouldn't recommend it because your tissue is going to still be in recovery mode. That, of course, depends on the style of hangboarding you want to do or the intensity of the climbing you did the day prior but generally not ideal.
What would I do without you!
How should I figure out how much weight to add for my hangs?
There's no cookie cutter way to do it. Depends on your experience, prior strength, etc. The safe bet is to start with a low amount of weight and do all your sets with it. If you are exceeding the threshold each time while maintaining good form, it's a good indication you can go lower. If you're newer, instead of adding weight, working through the minimal edge protocol is also a good idea. Check out the show notes on our site, also, I go into more detail about all of that. Cheers.
@@HoopersBeta I think, you should perform some testing before starting some quality hangboarding.
Hey Hooper, i know with a normal hang board routine you should rest 48-72 hours, is that the same with this one? You said this can be done before climbing, but lets say im on a trip and im climbing every day can I do this hang board routine every day with my climbing?
Same goes for standard routines, should be 48-72 hours rest in between. If you're on a climbing trip and climbing every day I would not do any additional hangboarding. Hangboarding is training and this routine is meant to amp your training up. But definitely not needed on a climbing trip where you are climbing multiple days.
@@HoopersBeta isn't that conflicting? if this hangboard routine is meant as a supplement to your climbing / training, you should be able to add it to your outdoor climbing trip as a warm up as well.
So is that routine meant as a supplement to your every-day climbing session as part of a warmup? Or for your 'training days' within your week only?
@@moritzjonathan836 it's a training not a warm up, you should warmup before doing this handboard routine.
On a climbing trip you don't train, you just climb.
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