How to Crimp Without Getting Injured
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: www.hoopersbeta.com/
In this episode we talk about several techniques to avoid getting injured when crimping.
Learn the difference between three crimping techniques: • Is Full Crimping Reall...
Here's how to get better at crimping: • How to Increase Crimp ...
Special thanks to The Wall for letting us film! @thewallclimbinggym
For more info visit RockTherapyPT.com
Instagram: @rocktherapypt
Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, CAFS
Filming and Editing by Emile Modesitt
www.emilemodesitt.com
Instagram: @emile166 - Спорт
in case you cut this video in premiere, just add the denoice effect on the soundbar to get rid of the noise in the background
Amazing video. Every beginner-intermediate climber should watch this
I'm extremely happy that I found this channel.
This was an awesome and super informative video! Thank you!!!
Super useful information in this video. Thanks man, please keep making these!
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.
Wonderful info thank you! Subbed!
"30-60min of warmup" 😂 That's how long my trainings are.
Very helpful!
Some proper informations here, nice one !
Thank you! I am glad that you enjoyed it.
Awesome video!
Thumbs up! I'm getting notes! :)
super helpful video, thanks! sorry if you already have a video on this, but you mentioned early in the video that the lumbricals aren't important for climbing and I was kinda taken aback since I strained one of my lumbricals while open hand gripping a few days ago. :( So a video on how to train open hand and pockets without getting injured would be great! And also how to slowly rebuild strength after various finger injuries :)
The lumbricals function as a stabilizer so they are used but yes, don't quite take the strain and stress as the pulley's, flexor digitorum profundus, superficialis, etc. Often times a strain to one of the lumbricals comes from a force load at a specific angle or maybe a sharp increase in the load such as after a foot blow.
Training pockets is a great idea though! We will have to work on it. There are also a few things you can do to rehab the lumbricals.
The "L" position turning tendon gliding activates the lumbricals. Applying light resistance in this position can start to retrain them. You can also safely massage the muscles with an instrument to assist in the healing if the tissue is not acutely inflamed.
@@HoopersBeta awesome, thanks so much for your help!! gonna start doing some massaging and tendon gliding
Great vid! A quick q: when tendon gliding, how much would you recommend squeezing down on the fingers when hitting those three points?
I've been doing 7:3 repeater hangs after my climbing sessions (3x per week) for 3 weeks now, and what you describe is exactly right.
I felt strong quickly, but having had a pulley-injury in the past, I didn't rush into it by taking more and more weight off.
The first weeks I've started increasing sets, started with 3 sets of 6 reps, and worked my way up to 6 this week. Will slowly start taking weight off from here.
This video was a great confirmation and a great source of info on how to train these things the right way, can't wait to do more and get stronger! :)
Still doing it?
@@Jay-vr8it I am, atleast once or twice a week, doing sets of 6x12 now, like the Lattice app prescribes for endurance. Also do max hangs once or twice a week and do pocket training once a week. Noticing steady improvement, using a pulleysystem to not overload on the repeaters.
I’ve had two pulley injuries almost immediately after coming back from a 1 year long climbing hiatus due to surgeries. With both pulley injuries I was properly warmed up, I had no exhaustion, no pain, didn’t shock-load (no foot slip, no dynamic movement). I don’t think I even used a full crimp. Both injuries happened after a few weeks of good progression and getting back into shape. Looks like the neuromuscular adaptations really happen much quicker than connective tissue adaptations.
The only good thing about pulley injuries is that they heal steadily and nicely and you get immediate feedback (pain), though it takes some time (the worse one took almost 5 months to heal).
I'm super curious how much people lose in a hiatus and at what rate - I have also been coming back from non climbing related injuries, and also just refocused to other sports from time to time. So even though it's been over 9 years since I started climbing I don't know how carefully to treat myself. Thankfully my current recovery I'm rehabbing an arm anyways so I had to rebuild slowly. Also focusing a lot on technique to stay interested even as the climbs are "easy".
I've never had a pulley injury, but did have collateral ligament pain twice during my peak skill & practice periods.
If I do a high intensity workout, such as 3 limit boulders on one day then take two days rest, how much difference is it to just do a limit boulder each one of those days with no rest days. Basically spreading training out, but keeping the average daily training volume the same. Is physiologic response different, injuries more likely?
Strong question! So, here's my input. Yes, the physiological response is different but it depends entirely on your effort. So, limit bouldering is meant to be high intensity, max level strength/tension. So, if you are performing 3 limits, you are creating a ton of load/tension and (hopefully) force a physiological adaptation. If you do too much, you start to destroy the tissue until the point where you weaken and risk injury. If you don't do enough, and you won't force a change. If you did enough to create a change, you then need time to rest and recover to heal up to 100% so that you can go hard again. If you don't rest enough, you are just going hard on tissue that's not 100%, so your effort won't be the same. So, the benefit of doing 3 in a day then resting is you are increasing the chance of forcing a physiological change. On the flip side, doing 1per day for 3 days can actually show you if you are making max effort moves. Example: you pick a limit that involves 5 moves and you can't hit the 5th one. Next day, you try again and you can... Well, you probably didn't warm up enough, sleep well, have caffeine... Or you just didn't try hard enough because the next day you hit it. On the other hand, if the next day you get stuck at the 3rd move, then you know that the limit problem you have set is indeed a good limit and you need time to recover from it. (There are of course other factors that go into what will or won't allow you to send as many moves, but it can be a guideline). In summary, both have a benefit if you understand your training and your body, but 3/day with more rest will likely increase your chances of creating a change. Now, to rest my thumbs. Hope this helps!
Can I fill crimp at 9 months? Training 2-3 times a week for about 2 hours. Have on sighted two 5.11a. 5.10a and 5.10b feel moderately challenging. Top roped 5.10d with multiple falls. Physically is good shape. Hope that paints a picture of where I’m at. Curious what is the healthy place to be for pushing finger strength? No injuries yet.
That will be different very everyone based upon their genetics, history with athletics, etc. Best way to formulate it looks roughly like this: intensity + volume = total work. In this sense, full crimping is more intense on your pulley's and joints, but if you keep the volume low, then the total increase in work on your pulley's and joints may be OK. The problem is that most people don't monitor that volume well enough so they drastically increase the total work and cause injuries. Basically, "it depends". It depends on the aforementioned equation and how well you manage it. If you did a full crimp that was only 10% of your body weight and only did it twice, you'd probably be fine :) If you did a full crimp that was 50% of your body weight and did it 15 times.... well, that's a different story :) Hope this helps!
Edit: Also, forgot to mention. Don't forget that being patient is progress. And strengthening your open hand and FDP muscles is extremely helpful with climbing. Don't just go for the send if it requires you to half crimp. Be patient with your strength gains and improvements.
@@HoopersBeta thanks so much!!
okay so I get that you shouldn't be crimping when you barely start out and it's a different story when you've been climbing for 20 years. When is the appropriate time to start trying then? Kind of a wide range you gave us. Is it depending on the grade you can do?
Good question. This is going to vary person to person. I say that because there is more than 1 variable. In preferable scenario? You would have ~6 months climbing experience under your belt, you're climbing no more than 3x/week, and your starting with recruitment pulls into the open crimp position so that you can slowly build up your tolerance. You do that training once or twice a week, and you slowly work that up and integrate the half crimp position into your climbing, and you're incorporating plenty of rest in between. As you progress with this and months go by, you can start that same cycle over but with the closed crimp or full crimp position but only doing that 1x/week. Again, to allow your tissue to slowly adapt to it. There is no "perfect" answer for this because as mentioned, everyone's genetics are different, training patterns differ, sleep matters, relative health matters, etc. Hopefully that gives you some guideline, although.
Side note: the "grade" you climb isn't a great scale because grades can vary from gym to gym or crag to crag.
Can you do a video on how to train towards two, and then, one finger crimps. I feel strong with three fingers on each hand, but as soon as I drop one i hurt myself:-(
Just to confirm: you're looking for training towards two finger crimps not two finger pockets?
@@HoopersBetayes, but if you have tips on two finger pockets I'll be happy to hear them! Thank you for responding!
nice
What's a cross-training session? Just a general body workout, or also includes some specific exercises for grip strength, for example?
Typically involves antagonistic muscle groups but it can also be agonistic. For example: you may do some wrist extension training which you may think of as the antagonistic muscle, but really, we couldn't generate much force with our grip without the extensors, so it's helping us, not acting against us. It may also be a general body exercise, such as doing a deadlift to train tension in the posterior chain, it may not be perfectly climbing specific but it is going to improve your climbing. Good question though! I hope this helps clarify that!
Oops. I started climbing about 2-3 months ago and am around a v4-v5 level. I definitely have started working into problems that incorporate crimpy holds. Should I back off?
Try and use an open hand grip on the holds; at some point you will have to start crimping but that early in your climbing you can still make gains on your open hand position
I agree with Squirg! Try to use an open hand grip and get stronger in that regard. It is safer and very beneficial down the road. Work on your technique, and slowly integrate crimping but avoid overuse or overdependency on that position :)
Wish I'd seen that before spraining my A2 pulley 😂 Did my first V5 3-4 weeks ago and I started to try V6-V7 problems, as well as 5.11a toprope climbs while using crimps excessively.
how long is ok before i should start training my fingers i have only been climbing for about 5 months but i can onsite 11c and have just climbed a 12
Sounds like you're progressing quickly! There are many factors that go into initiating finger training and if you're serious about it you may want to get a climbing coach who can factor in your age, weight, training frequency, etc.
@@HoopersBeta thank you!
You love hearing you talk
hi 👋
Im kindda’ new to climbing, and this is exactly what happened to me, I became stronger really fast, so I started doing harder problems, now my left elbow and my ring fingers A1 pulley hurts,
Please help, what should I do ?
u fixed it?
I was trying to send you guys some photos along with the following question but I couldn't find an mail address, so I hope you see this comment!
So my question is: what is the correct way to "half crimp"? I know, everybody says that the fingers should bend 90°, but what about the wrist? for me hanging with completely straight wrists feels good, but not that much stronger than open hand. So i think the mechanical advantage from the half crimp comes from bending the wrist aswell. For me this feels a bit more sketchy and of it as "not so safe" as it's closer to a full crimp position. So which way is the correct way to train?
TLDR: my half crimp with straight wrist feels very weak on the wall on tiny crimps, am I crimping wrong?
I hope you can help
Cheers guys!
I think it is highly dependend on the individual. I feel like with four fingers i naturally go into a full crimp position because my pinky is too short.
The three finger drag feels a little better but kinda awkward instead of the half crimp.
not getting injured is aid
Oddly specific that you mention the brand of the watch.
In my experience, these tips are the most important too :)
Also, DRINK A LOT
water or booze?
I do love warming up... but I'm a nerd
Nerds unite!
It's the t in anatomy silent? Can't hear him pronouncing the t. Sorry for the question, I'm not a native speaker.
No not silent :) Sometimes I just speak quickly?
The t in "anatomy" is pronounced different from the t in "tick". Native English speakers won't even notice but it's a completely different sound. The first sound clip in this link comparing "latter" vs. "ladder" is great. "Anatomy" is pronounced more like "anaddomy"