If you don't want to remove your pads etc and still keep them from getting contaminated, just wrap the caliper with a piece of cling film covering the pads, pop the bleed valve through the wrap and it will stop any accidental fluid to pad contamination.
This is perfect Information, delivered concisely and to the point, which is precisely what I was looking for. I clicked a number of American videos first, and each of them was about 15 minutes long, and spent a long time waffling or going step by step from unboxing to fitting, which is not necessary. Just the information about how to actually fill it once it's all installed was all I needed. Thank you
There are some missing steps here as others have said! You should purge any air from the syringe before pushing through the caliper. You are missing the steps of passively releasing air (and a little mineral oil from the caliper) and positioning and flicking the levers several times to remove any remaining air in the reservoir. You should most certainly remove the wheel and pads and secure the proper bleed block between the caliper pistons...
Thanks for this video. I decided to get my bike, that had been abandoned for 2 years, going again and the brakes didn't work at all. I wasn't sure how to fix them. I used your advice and now it's all good again!
Good and concise video! But I would highly recommend removing the brake pads and using a bleed block. It's true that once you get good at bleeding, your chances of contamination get pretty low, but why risk it? It only adds 30 seconds or so to the procedure and it's worth eliminating that potential trouble spot, especially if you're not experienced with bleeding.
Thank you so much for this video. It's the exact model calipers I have and I've never done this before. I spent about an hour just trying to find a video or manual that made this simple to understand. Your video nailed this in less than 5 minutes. Now I feel so much more confident knowing how to fix this next time without having to look anything else up online.
Great tutorial, even though my Deore M575s are a little different configuration, you provided enough information about why you did the specific steps for me to figure out the things that were different. Specifically, the valve release is a nut just behind the feed nipple, not a hex screw on top. Otherwise, after a slow step by step for the rear, I was able to breeze through the front with no help! Thank you for sharing!
Was totally unfamiliar with bleeding bike brakes, but I got a kit for $20 and followed the video and they're good as new. A few videos I watched before this were much longer and involved removing the pads and using spacers which I wanted to avoid doing.
So what abut the pad position? If the pads are worn and you bleed the system and then try to replace the pads won't the system be overfilled? Also, maybe remove the pads before the bleed so you can pump the pistons back into battery and you also don't inadvertently spill fluid on the pads.
Head over to your local bike shop. They should be able to help with the part and may even have a couple spare lying around. If not, the shop you bought it from, or the distributor in your area should be able to help out.
I think a series were every week you do a few parts on building a bike and after about 20 episodes you have built a full bike. That would be great considering i am going to build a cylocross bike
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
very helpful- watched a few times before I got the steps in my mind, but worked well and sorted the problem. used the tip below about cling film to minimise any contamination
sue him :-)) honestly, the wheel plus the brake pads should be removed beforehand, otherwise the rotor or the pads would get contaminated. Then a plastic bleed spacer should be placed between the pistons to avoid any moving of them
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and it definitely saves time and money taking care of your breaks yourself I really appreciate your time and sharing your video podcast I'm going to be ordering my break fluid bleeding kit. God-bless.
New to mountain bikes but have bleed many brakes on vehicles. I've seen a few videos and I'm always surprised by the given technique. Why don't people just use a syringe to push the new fluid into the reservoir and out the caliper and/or pump it out with the brake handle while filling the reservoir?
I'd be taking the brake pads out during the process, replacing them with the yellow plastic block that Shimano make for the purpose. One drop of oil on the pads and they're stuffed.
Sooo...what happens when your Trek has Shimano hydraulic brakes and there is no bleed plug to screw the cup into on the reservoir end...? Two Philips screws holding on the reservoir cover 0n - and that's it. Any ideas??
Just a note. If you have cheaper oil use it in the top cup to fill it just a bit. Then push the new oil in and when all bubbles and old oil is out shut the valve. You're just gonna toss the oil in the cup anyway, and none of the cheap oil will go down. No sense tossing the expensive oil.
Yes, that is right! I also use masking tape around and below the brake system so any leaks can be blocked and absorbed by the tape, and will not get to parts that will affect braking and soak in to the pads (this will be, like you say permanently absorbed, and cause less friction and squeaking. Also masking tape adhesive is not going to mark the paintwork.
I pop wheelies on my bike and I noticed that when both wheels are on the ground break lever feels good but when I put the bike in the wheelie position my break lever gets really spongy what does this mean and how can I fix ?
I've used vegtable oil in all my bikes that take mineral oil for 30 years now, it's never caused any problems or ever caused Corrosion in my parts or o rings and works extremely well i would go to say it works better and gives to good stiif non spongy breaks
What is that black part you used to keep the hose on the caliper nipple? I don't see that in the funnel bleed kit or am I mistaken and it comes with it.
Cheers for clearing up my questions I had running around in my head. First bike I've had in many years and tech has come along a fair bit. Curious that dot 5 silicon based fluid isn't used but no doubt there's a reason.
After turning 1 round anti-clockwise for the valve at the brake device below, did you forget to tighten the valve back (@video 2:33) when putting on the rubber dust cap?
I ordered oil brakes got them today but the piston is stuck closed what do I do ? I also let out a lot of fluid by mistake if I replace the fluid will it open up again
I'm looking at doing this today/ most likely tomorrow. Towards the end of the bleed, whats to stop air infiltrating the system when removing the funnel from the bleed port on the lever itself?
My Shimano brake fluid's colour has changed into yellow. If I apply this procedure to my brakes, will the old fluid and the new fluid get blended?? If so, what can I do to prevent it from happening right from the start?? PLS answer me soon! TKS a lot
If your worried about it mixing run new fluid from top to bottom first then bleed the brake to remove the bubbles. I did this on a set of zee I bought second hand and they run really nice now with new fluid in them.
Should you not remove the brake pads before bleeding the brakes, so that they won't get contaminated ? Shimano also give the plastic spacer that fills the gap between the two pistons (where the pads been) - you don't seem to use it. I've seen shimano deore bleeding video and it looks quite different.
For us across the pond - chuffed adjective 1 pleased, delighted; flattered; very excited. Originally northern English dialect meaning 'proud', adopted by military, then wider society.
My shimano brakes haven't got a whole to put the funnel on only 2 screws for the cap to come off the reservoir, I can't seem to find a video on this sort of brake can anyone give me some advice?
It seems my bleed valve is leaking. Every time i break i can see fluid squirting out. I tried different levels of tightness on the valve and the problem persisted. Is this a common mistake? Do i have to purchase a new valve?
i have a e bike that i use for my daily commute avg of 14miles each way. been considers purchasing hydraulic brakes.. should I? how often would i have to bleed? Would it be better if i stick with my mechanical disc brakes?
i heard that everytime you add fluid or change it out you have to bleed the brakes.. see that would make a huge difference for me because i literally do 28 miles a day. for someone that rides a bike here and there it would be such an issue atleast this is what i was told
whats the size of the allen key you use to get the bolt off and bleed pump on i dont have that size allen key so need to know so i can buy one Please Thanks
"careful not to spill any fluid" then yanks the tube away like a mad man
02:24 😂
Lmao it wasn't that bad but your statement killed me 🤣🤣🤣
couple drops due to small tools being used
Best style - thanks! No bs, no ads, no slow blah-blah - awesome job!
If you don't want to remove your pads etc and still keep them from
getting contaminated, just wrap the caliper with a piece of cling film
covering the pads, pop the bleed valve through the wrap and it will stop
any accidental fluid to pad contamination.
thank you!
Now you tell me😢
As a bike mechanic myself, this is a great informative video.
This is perfect Information, delivered concisely and to the point, which is precisely what I was looking for.
I clicked a number of American videos first, and each of them was about 15 minutes long, and spent a long time waffling or going step by step from unboxing to fitting, which is not necessary. Just the information about how to actually fill it once it's all installed was all I needed.
Thank you
There are some missing steps here as others have said! You should purge any air from the syringe before pushing through the caliper. You are missing the steps of passively releasing air (and a little mineral oil from the caliper) and positioning and flicking the levers several times to remove any remaining air in the reservoir. You should most certainly remove the wheel and pads and secure the proper bleed block between the caliper pistons...
You are a legend. Thank you for the advice 7 years later.
Hey, the next time you go poop, let me know because I want the diamonds.
Thanks for this video. I decided to get my bike, that had been abandoned for 2 years, going again and the brakes didn't work at all. I wasn't sure how to fix them. I used your advice and now it's all good again!
Good and concise video! But I would highly recommend removing the brake pads and using a bleed block. It's true that once you get good at bleeding, your chances of contamination get pretty low, but why risk it? It only adds 30 seconds or so to the procedure and it's worth eliminating that potential trouble spot, especially if you're not experienced with bleeding.
Good advice.
This
I absolutely ruined my brake pads the first time I tried this so I definetly support your statement
I know a person who's addicted to brake fluid. He can't stop himself.
YoloMcSwaggins Ayyyyy
Alex Greenwood good one
Gimme a brake !!
Eyyyyyyy!
Daaaaaaaaaaaad!!
You definitely need to remove your rotor (wheel) and your pads and place them in another town while you do this. The mineral oil gets EVERYYYYYYWHERE!
dudewheresmybee
Be sure not to spill any fluid
That's common sense.. It's like saying be careful not to put some brake fuel into your mouth and swallowing it once it did.
Thank you so much for this video. It's the exact model calipers I have and I've never done this before. I spent about an hour just trying to find a video or manual that made this simple to understand. Your video nailed this in less than 5 minutes. Now I feel so much more confident knowing how to fix this next time without having to look anything else up online.
me too
And me too. No faffing around, did front and back brakes on first attempt in less than 10 minutes - nice sharp brakes now.
Great tutorial, even though my Deore M575s are a little different configuration, you provided enough information about why you did the specific steps for me to figure out the things that were different. Specifically, the valve release is a nut just behind the feed nipple, not a hex screw on top. Otherwise, after a slow step by step for the rear, I was able to breeze through the front with no help! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks guys. I'm The World's Worst Home Mechanic & that took me about 15 minutes. 👍
Was totally unfamiliar with bleeding bike brakes, but I got a kit for $20 and followed the video and they're good as new. A few videos I watched before this were much longer and involved removing the pads and using spacers which I wanted to avoid doing.
Nice short, simple and foremost a encouraging video.
So what abut the pad position? If the pads are worn and you bleed the system and then try to replace the pads won't the system be overfilled? Also, maybe remove the pads before the bleed so you can pump the pistons back into battery and you also don't inadvertently spill fluid on the pads.
This My Homie CJ!! This is how a tutorial should be done, Top Man Alan, 5 Golden Stars From Me
Thanks that took less than 5 minutes now my brakes work perfectly.
Head over to your local bike shop. They should be able to help with the part and may even have a couple spare lying around. If not, the shop you bought it from, or the distributor in your area should be able to help out.
The procedure should be pretty much the same, yes - I'm not sure of the specifics of the SLX brakes though.
Can't get any easier than that. Just watched a sram bleed video, too complicated. Shimano all the way! Thanks this very helpful guys!
+thebowhunter888 I used to have Sram - never again. I bled my shimano rear brake today - no problem.
I think a series were every week you do a few parts on building a bike and after about 20 episodes you have built a full bike. That would be great considering i am going to build a cylocross bike
This was easy after watching the video. Thanks much! My rear brake action is firm. Ready for stabilizing during riding.
Thanks this fixed my rear brake, only problem is every time I brake it sounds like a crying ghost. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Does the lack of oil affects the quality of the brake?
Thank you. First time adjusting hydraulic brakes and your video made it simple and done in 5 minutes!
Simple, easy to understand guide to follow. Thank you
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
Helped sort my front shimano with minimum effort. Thanks guys!
you're very welcome stephen
very helpful- watched a few times before I got the steps in my mind, but worked well and sorted the problem. used the tip below about cling film to minimise any contamination
I did everything he said now I'm in a hospital bed in a body cast
sue him :-)) honestly, the wheel plus the brake pads should be removed beforehand, otherwise the rotor or the pads would get contaminated. Then a plastic bleed spacer should be placed between the pistons to avoid any moving of them
Uwe Gablenz honestly the worst video I’ve ever seen.
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and it definitely saves time and money taking care of your breaks yourself I really appreciate your time and sharing your video podcast I'm going to be ordering my break fluid bleeding kit. God-bless.
I used a rag instead of a reservoir, and a medical syringe, and an old fuel hose, worked like a charm.
Excellent! Worked for me!
Slightly different all-in-one nipple/bleed valve arrangement with my brakes, which worked nicely.
Thanks for the video and your time, newbie here needing to service my brakes.
Great help thanks. Nice, sharp front and rear brakes now in less than 10 minutes at the first attempt. Cheers!👍
New to mountain bikes but have bleed many brakes on vehicles. I've seen a few videos and I'm always surprised by the given technique. Why don't people just use a syringe to push the new fluid into the reservoir and out the caliper and/or pump it out with the brake handle while filling the reservoir?
Like a car?
I'd be taking the brake pads out during the process, replacing them with the yellow plastic block that Shimano make for the purpose. One drop of oil on the pads and they're stuffed.
I might need a brake from this video but I can't stop watching
Hi. So my front right works but the the lever is sloppy and doesn't pop out as the other side does. Your thoughts ?
can you send a link to a hose-locking device, please?
So what's about the one way in built valve ? How can you tell if it's damaged?
Sooo...what happens when your Trek has Shimano hydraulic brakes and there is no bleed plug to screw the cup into on the reservoir end...? Two Philips screws holding on the reservoir cover 0n - and that's it. Any ideas??
Just a note. If you have cheaper oil use it in the top cup to fill it just a bit. Then push the new oil in and when all bubbles and old oil is out shut the valve. You're just gonna toss the oil in the cup anyway, and none of the cheap oil will go down. No sense tossing the expensive oil.
Do you have to do this every x years or miles?
Why have i seen clips using syringe to extract old fluid from the caiper while topping reservoir up
Thanks for direct and simple instruction. Making things possible
This is a great tutorial given that you're not an idiot and use common sense when changing the fluid.
You should really remove the pads before you do this.
I'd concur, and I remove the wheel too. Brake fluid is impossible to remove from a brake pad. The rotor is cleanable, but its best to not have too.
Yes, that is right! I also use masking tape around and below the brake system so any leaks can be blocked and absorbed by the tape, and will not get to parts that will affect braking and soak in to the pads (this will be, like you say permanently absorbed, and cause less friction and squeaking. Also masking tape adhesive is not going to mark the paintwork.
And he skipped how to remove the air trapped, there is a way....to do it
Are you questioning GCN??? Fite me rite now!
please make a video on campanyolo hydraulic disc brakes.
I pop wheelies on my bike and I noticed that when both wheels are on the ground break lever feels good but when I put the bike in the wheelie position my break lever gets really spongy what does this mean and how can I fix ?
Short, simple and to the point. Need more people with this approach and not 10 mins of talking just because.
Can the old oil be reused by any means? If so, what are the potential drawbacks?
Great vid. Just did the job in 10 minutes thanks to your instructions. Thanks!
Hi, Could you do a video on installing Hydraulic hose cable into brake levers and calipers?
What if your brake doesn't have the top Allen key for the cup +?????
Just perfect. Short and to the point.
i was thinking about upgrading to shimano xtr M988, i wonder if u still bleed the brake as he did.
Alright but how to you do the bleed point on the calliper?
Can You Tell Me Which Hex Key Consider To Use For I am Doing That? Thank You
whats that black thing he is using to told the bleed point in place?
I've used vegtable oil in all my bikes that take mineral oil for 30 years now, it's never caused any problems or ever caused Corrosion in my parts or o rings and works extremely well i would go to say it works better and gives to good stiif non spongy breaks
Just what I needed for my BR-M447 brakes. Thanks.
Any videos out there showing how to bleed the system with the caliper off the frame, like he mentioned in the end?
What is that black part you used to keep the hose on the caliper nipple? I don't see that in the funnel bleed kit or am I mistaken and it comes with it.
Thank you again. It was sooooo dirty. So stoppie now!!
Brake Bleed Funnel (Shimano) are not the same threads. Therefore to casually screw on is not always possible. To find the correct adaptor is a sod
Cheers for clearing up my questions I had running around in my head. First bike I've had in many years and tech has come along a fair bit. Curious that dot 5 silicon based fluid isn't used but no doubt there's a reason.
Thanks - this video, for me, was the easiest to follow.
Bleed oil brake is same change oil brake?
After turning 1 round anti-clockwise for the valve at the brake device below, did you forget to tighten the valve back (@video 2:33) when putting on the rubber dust cap?
2:05
But if i refill the brake fluid, i only need to open the brake cover and filled it, and pump with brake slowly
And its working
How do you know you're not pushing out fresh fluid into the reservoir?
How often do you need to do this
How much mineral fluid do you need to suck with the syringe to successfully bleed the brakes.
It's not a huge amount - really all you're looking to do is get rid of the air from in the system.
About 25ml
I've never had to bleed a brake before as I've always had cables. Excellent Video. Very simple straight forward instructions. Thank You.
I ordered oil brakes got them today but the piston is stuck closed what do I do ? I also let out a lot of fluid by mistake if I replace the fluid will it open up again
Short and to the point. Thanks Dan, top stuff.
I'm looking at doing this today/ most likely tomorrow. Towards the end of the bleed, whats to stop air infiltrating the system when removing the funnel from the bleed port on the lever itself?
gravity
do bleeding kits fit most hydraulic systems
Do you have to remove the brake pads?
what is the small alan key bolt on the top of the lever called
My Shimano brake fluid's colour has changed into yellow. If I apply this procedure to my brakes, will the old fluid and the new fluid get blended?? If so, what can I do to prevent it from happening right from the start?? PLS answer me soon! TKS a
lot
If your worried about it mixing run new fluid from top to bottom first then bleed the brake to remove the bubbles. I did this on a set of zee I bought second hand and they run really nice now with new fluid in them.
Remove the Wheel and Breakepads before to bleed in order to avoid a contamination!!
Gonna do this tomorrow, new discs n fluid on my Scott, great vid, to the point
I dont have shimano oil can I use something else instead ?
What if the oil leaked out? Will this fix that?
What happens if I use autotive brake fluid instead of mineral oil in my brake system?
Should you not remove the brake pads before bleeding the brakes, so that they won't get contaminated ? Shimano also give the plastic spacer that fills the gap between the two pistons (where the pads been) - you don't seem to use it. I've seen shimano deore bleeding video and it looks quite different.
I did this today.I was really chuffed with myself that I managed to do it myself.I removed the pads though.
For us across the pond - chuffed adjective 1 pleased, delighted; flattered; very excited. Originally northern English dialect meaning 'proud', adopted by military, then wider society.
Does it matter in what position pad pistons are?
My shimano brakes haven't got a whole to put the funnel on only 2 screws for the cap to come off the reservoir, I can't seem to find a video on this sort of brake can anyone give me some advice?
you probably want to gravity bleed it. Just make sure the fluid in the reservoir doesn't run out when you do.
It seems my bleed valve is leaking. Every time i break i can see fluid squirting out. I tried different levels of tightness on the valve and the problem persisted. Is this a common mistake? Do i have to purchase a new valve?
Try wrapping the thread in teflon (PTFE) tape first, or some other sealant. See if that helps.
I did not received hose locking device with my bleeding kit...
i have a e bike that i use for my daily commute avg of 14miles each way. been considers purchasing hydraulic brakes.. should I? how often would i have to bleed? Would it be better if i stick with my mechanical disc brakes?
daspecialist1220 mechanical disc brakes are rubbish. Proper hydraulic disc brakes are amazing. Once bled you should never need to bleed it again.
i heard that everytime you add fluid or change it out you have to bleed the brakes.. see that would make a huge difference for me because i literally do 28 miles a day. for someone that rides a bike here and there it would be such an issue atleast this is what i was told
Angelo Ramirez you don't have to add or change the fluid very often or at all in fact. Once you have blead up, that's it.
no bleed block ...?
Can i use dot 4?
whats the size of the allen key you use to get the bolt off and bleed pump on i dont have that size allen key so need to know so i can buy one Please Thanks
I seem to remember that it was a 2mm allen key.
My brake leaver has quite some "travell" before the brakes do anything, is there any way to fix that?