All I have to say is THANK YOU FOR YOUR CHANNEL. just came across your channel yesterday. I live just outside of Columbus Ohio so it's nice to have a great youtuber in my state. I have the same style truck as your white crew. I did research on this truck for almost 2 years before ordering it. I ordered the truck with everything I wanted, 5 speed, manual lock outs, tow package and 373 rear ends. My baby turned 27 this year. I love this truck so much. She has been and continues to be a great reliable truck. She's got about 300,000. Frame is real good. Rust on the bottom of a couple doors and a few other small places. Any was, i just want to thank you for what you've created on this channel and look forward to viewing all your videos. Thanks again .
I have to say, you have some really great videos. I loved seeing the towing tests from stock tow to the tuned tow. So basically, I have a stock 1997 Ford F-250 7.3l Powerstroke ZF5 manual truck with 140k. Lately, I've noticed that it is pouring out some pretty good black smoke (especially when you bring it to 3,000 RPM to shift). Even at 1/4 throttle or under load, it will pour out. I really started noticing this after I put 8 reman stock 90cc AA code injectors in the truck. I replaced the Y pipe boots, as well as the turbo compressor seal from the turbo to the Y pipe. I also put a new Motorcraft air filter in the factory air box. Still after those parts, the truck rolls coal. Frankly, it doesn't bother me since I'm 16 and like the smoke, but I unfortunately have to do emissions tests in Colorado. I have scanned for codes several times and had a P0236 code come up. It only came up once and went away. When I researched it I think it had something to do with the boost not matching with the PCM, so I took the map sensor and sprayed it out with contact cleaner. Still after doing that, the truck still rolls black. Truck passes a cylinder contribution test fine. Although on the buzz test, I have been getting many codes. When I do a buzz test from the app Forscan, all the injectors buzz fine but it comes up with a P1271, P1277, P1273,P1275, P1276, P1278, P1293, P1294. Back with the old injectors, when I would do buzz tests, none of these codes came up. It all started after we had a mechanic replace 4 injectors. They thought it was a California truck and put the AB code injectors in. After they put those in, the truck was running one bank with the 120cc AB injectors and the other bank with the 90cc AA injectors. When I did a buzz test after those were replaced, thats when all those injector fault codes popped up. So I ended up replacing all Glow plugs with motorcraft replacements, I put Remanufactured AA injectors from full force diesel, and under valve cover harnesses and gaskets in the truck. (I actually did all the injectors because the old ones were knocking pretty hard, you can hear them knocking away in this video ua-cam.com/video/P6LIKZDI4lw/v-deo.html) I wonder if when the truck was running the mixed injectors, It messed something up in the IDM. So right now, the truck runs pretty good, It has a pesky idle surge that annoys me, but other than that it runs pretty good. I just don't remember it pouring out so much black with the old injectors. Sorry for the long, paragraph. Any ideas? Thanks Alex.
Hi Alex, I think the first thing I would confirm is that the truck is making boost. Black smoke is unburned fuel. If the turbo isn't building pressure (which is what that code you're getting means) then the truck is essentially running rich, which makes black smoke. You can probably read that from the MAP sensor with Forscan. If not, you can plumb in a gauge (or a simple psi gauge on a 30-50 psi scale will work). You should be seeing around 20 psi of boost around 2500-3000 RPM. If it is significantly lower than that, then you're leaking boost somewhere. I have a video on testing for boost leaks as well that shows how you can build an inexpensive tester to locate the leaks. Hopefully that is helpful. Sounds like a nice truck. God bless!
@@diymechanictv1233 Alright I set up the iphones screen recorder and drove it hard with about 3k shifts. I saw 21.9 psi from the map and 135 hertz. At 21.9 psi from the map, the ebpv was 26.6 psi. At idle the map reads about 12 psi and 100 hertz.
If that's 21 psi absolute which includes the barometric pressure (which it sounds like is 12psi for you - you must be a little above sea level) you're only making about 9 psi of actual (gauge) boost. That's about half of what it should be. Check your up pipes for leaks, and check your intakes for boost leaks. You're way down on boost for some reason, which is why you're smoky.
@@diymechanictv1233 Yeah I'm at 7400 feet, the up pipes leak, although they haven't seemed to leak more since they were with the old injectors. I have the clamps all tight. So basically, the 21 psi is not the actual boost?
@@dieselwelding431 there are 2 different ways to view the reading from the MAP sensor. Absolute (abs), and Gauge (Ga). Absolute doesn't subtract the (absolute) atmospheric pressure reading that is seen by the BARO sensor under the dash. Gauge reading does subtract that value to give you actually boost. Since you're seeing 12psi at idle on your reading, that tells me you are viewing it as absolute pressure. That means we have to subtract the atmospheric pressure to read your actual boost. Since you're seeing 12 psi at idle, I'm guessing that is about what your BARO sensor is reading so we subtract that BARO reading (12) from your absolute MAP reading (21) to get your actual boost (9). Yous hould be seeing about 20 psi of BOOST which should read more like 33 psi on the MAP in absolute. Does that make sense? It's either that or your MAP sensor is bad, but since your symptom is black smoke, I think it's more likely that youre not making boost. Check to be sure that the o-ring between the turbo outlet and the y that feeds the plenums is in place and not cut, but I think you need to reseal your up pipes (or convert to bellowed up pipes once and be done). Check out Riffraff Diesel's bellowed up pipes if you decide to go that route. Hope that's helpful.
Sorry about the window; make the video as Ive never had to replace one. I've had to replace two cps's. Required equipment in 7.3 glove compartment is a socket wrench,10 mm socket and cps. I also tell people never get one from a parts store. riffraff for the win. God Bless you with two 16year old teenagers. Id put a 4 inch pipe around both vehicles, kinda like a bumper car.
That's a real debate... A sliding wear window doesn't make a ton of sense to me in a crew cab because you can't reach it from the driver's seat to open and close it. In the end, I put a slider in it (just finished as a matter of fact) just because that's what I had in good shape. It will be a temporary solution as I have something else in store for that later on... 😉
@@diymechanictv1233 i was actually having a conversation with my buddy about that recently. I don't think that it being a crew cab makes a lick of difference. It isn't that hard to lean back far enough to open and close it and it helps with airflow. I'm also a firm believer of better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
All I have to say is THANK YOU FOR YOUR CHANNEL. just came across your channel yesterday.
I live just outside of Columbus Ohio so it's nice to have a great youtuber in my state.
I have the same style truck as your white crew.
I did research on this truck for almost 2 years before ordering it.
I ordered the truck with everything I wanted, 5 speed, manual lock outs, tow package and 373 rear ends.
My baby turned 27 this year. I love this truck so much. She has been and continues to be a great reliable truck. She's got about 300,000. Frame is real good. Rust on the bottom of a couple doors and a few other small places.
Any was, i just want to thank you for what you've created on this channel and look forward to viewing all your videos.
Thanks again .
Hey, Thank You for watching and for the encouragement!
I have to say, you have some really great videos. I loved seeing the towing tests from stock tow to the tuned tow. So basically, I have a stock 1997 Ford F-250 7.3l Powerstroke ZF5 manual truck with 140k. Lately, I've noticed that it is pouring out some pretty good black smoke (especially when you bring it to 3,000 RPM to shift). Even at 1/4 throttle or under load, it will pour out. I really started noticing this after I put 8 reman stock 90cc AA code injectors in the truck. I replaced the Y pipe boots, as well as the turbo compressor seal from the turbo to the Y pipe. I also put a new Motorcraft air filter in the factory air box. Still after those parts, the truck rolls coal. Frankly, it doesn't bother me since I'm 16 and like the smoke, but I unfortunately have to do emissions tests in Colorado. I have scanned for codes several times and had a P0236 code come up. It only came up once and went away. When I researched it I think it had something to do with the boost not matching with the PCM, so I took the map sensor and sprayed it out with contact cleaner. Still after doing that, the truck still rolls black. Truck passes a cylinder contribution test fine. Although on the buzz test, I have been getting many codes. When I do a buzz test from the app Forscan, all the injectors buzz fine but it comes up with a P1271, P1277, P1273,P1275, P1276, P1278, P1293, P1294. Back with the old injectors, when I would do buzz tests, none of these codes came up. It all started after we had a mechanic replace 4 injectors. They thought it was a California truck and put the AB code injectors in. After they put those in, the truck was running one bank with the 120cc AB injectors and the other bank with the 90cc AA injectors. When I did a buzz test after those were replaced, thats when all those injector fault codes popped up. So I ended up replacing all Glow plugs with motorcraft replacements, I put Remanufactured AA injectors from full force diesel, and under valve cover harnesses and gaskets in the truck. (I actually did all the injectors because the old ones were knocking pretty hard, you can hear them knocking away in this video ua-cam.com/video/P6LIKZDI4lw/v-deo.html)
I wonder if when the truck was running the mixed injectors, It messed something up in the IDM. So right now, the truck runs pretty good, It has a pesky idle surge that annoys me, but other than that it runs pretty good. I just don't remember it pouring out so much black with the old injectors. Sorry for the long, paragraph. Any ideas? Thanks Alex.
Hi Alex, I think the first thing I would confirm is that the truck is making boost. Black smoke is unburned fuel. If the turbo isn't building pressure (which is what that code you're getting means) then the truck is essentially running rich, which makes black smoke. You can probably read that from the MAP sensor with Forscan. If not, you can plumb in a gauge (or a simple psi gauge on a 30-50 psi scale will work). You should be seeing around 20 psi of boost around 2500-3000 RPM. If it is significantly lower than that, then you're leaking boost somewhere. I have a video on testing for boost leaks as well that shows how you can build an inexpensive tester to locate the leaks.
Hopefully that is helpful. Sounds like a nice truck. God bless!
@@diymechanictv1233 Alright I set up the iphones screen recorder and drove it hard with about 3k shifts. I saw 21.9 psi from the map and 135 hertz. At 21.9 psi from the map, the ebpv was 26.6 psi. At idle the map reads about 12 psi and 100 hertz.
If that's 21 psi absolute which includes the barometric pressure (which it sounds like is 12psi for you - you must be a little above sea level) you're only making about 9 psi of actual (gauge) boost. That's about half of what it should be. Check your up pipes for leaks, and check your intakes for boost leaks. You're way down on boost for some reason, which is why you're smoky.
@@diymechanictv1233 Yeah I'm at 7400 feet, the up pipes leak, although they haven't seemed to leak more since they were with the old injectors. I have the clamps all tight. So basically, the 21 psi is not the actual boost?
@@dieselwelding431 there are 2 different ways to view the reading from the MAP sensor. Absolute (abs), and Gauge (Ga). Absolute doesn't subtract the (absolute) atmospheric pressure reading that is seen by the BARO sensor under the dash. Gauge reading does subtract that value to give you actually boost. Since you're seeing 12psi at idle on your reading, that tells me you are viewing it as absolute pressure. That means we have to subtract the atmospheric pressure to read your actual boost. Since you're seeing 12 psi at idle, I'm guessing that is about what your BARO sensor is reading so we subtract that BARO reading (12) from your absolute MAP reading (21) to get your actual boost (9). Yous hould be seeing about 20 psi of BOOST which should read more like 33 psi on the MAP in absolute. Does that make sense?
It's either that or your MAP sensor is bad, but since your symptom is black smoke, I think it's more likely that youre not making boost.
Check to be sure that the o-ring between the turbo outlet and the y that feeds the plenums is in place and not cut, but I think you need to reseal your up pipes (or convert to bellowed up pipes once and be done). Check out Riffraff Diesel's bellowed up pipes if you decide to go that route.
Hope that's helpful.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Sorry about the window; make the video as Ive never had to replace one.
I've had to replace two cps's. Required equipment in 7.3 glove compartment is a socket wrench,10 mm socket and cps. I also tell people never get one from a parts store. riffraff for the win. God Bless you with two 16year old teenagers. Id put a 4 inch pipe around both vehicles, kinda like a bumper car.
Hahaha, I hope we don't need that, but I purposely didn't get either one of them anything TOO nice...
Will you swap to the sliding back glass or stay with solid rear window?
That's a real debate... A sliding wear window doesn't make a ton of sense to me in a crew cab because you can't reach it from the driver's seat to open and close it.
In the end, I put a slider in it (just finished as a matter of fact) just because that's what I had in good shape. It will be a temporary solution as I have something else in store for that later on... 😉
@@diymechanictv1233 i was actually having a conversation with my buddy about that recently. I don't think that it being a crew cab makes a lick of difference. It isn't that hard to lean back far enough to open and close it and it helps with airflow. I'm also a firm believer of better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
@@redkw3608 I'll have to give it a shot now that I have a slider!