One thing I love about this channel is I always learn something. Thank for walking us through the troubleshooting process. And I had a sneaking suspicion that the cast rockers were going to make their way into this engine, as having only one in there would cause an eye twitch! 😉
I,ve watched all of the Preparation H restoration project, and I have loved it all. I'm looking for Project #47 where you start up the engine and make sure the knock is gone. Your restoration videos are spot on for tractor lovers like me who lack the finances and work space to do my own. You are a master mechanic in all of the skills required and I truly admire your work. Is there a #47 that is on UA-cam somewhere, or has it not been made yet?
Thank you for viewing, #47 has not yet been made due to me having been kept busy this summer getting my new storage building finished up and all the machines put in it before the fall weather gives way to winter - I should be back on the H within the next couple of weeks 👍
Pro move with the band of sleeve retainer at the bottom of the parent bore, and a band on the top of the sleeve. Disaster has come to those who liberally coat the bore and sleeve before installing. It is ready for the next 15,000 hours now. At 150 a year, that’s only another 100 years.
In the comment section of the previous H series video people were adamant not to use an adhesive, e.g. " Never and I mean Never put retaining compound on a sleeve. " I was surprised therefore to see you do just that. It makes sense to me.
I’ll share a little UA-cam secret with you - it doesn’t matter what I do, or don’t do, in any given video - there’s always somebody somewhere that is telling me I did it wrong lol 😂👍
FYI, piston rings rotate on the piston at about 1% of engine rpm, the cross hatching greatly helps with this ring rotation which is designed like this by the manufacturer so that wear in the bore and rings is evened out, especially important on initial break in as vertical scratches in the bore and the corresponding grooves formed in the rings would lock one into to the another preventing ring rotation and leading to uneven wear and bore/ring damage. If the engine manufacturer did not want the rings to rotate they would peg them like on small piston ported 2 stroke engines. The initial assembly advice of staggering the ring gaps is once again to prevent vertical scratches forming in the bore on initial break in. After some running the ring gap positions end up all over the place which no longer matters. This information came from the famous engine developer and all round genius Harry Ricardo's excellent book on 4 stroke engine technology
I was told over 50 years ago that Perfect Circle had determined sometime prior to the 1960s that rings rotate when the engine runs. Seems not unlike any loose washer that spins on its bolt or stud (or the fuel cap on my Farmall Cub!).
A great job keeping your white t-shirt spotless…Knew an old timer who was a painter…He said they wore white t-shirts also to show how good of a painter they were 🤩👍🏻🧐
Toby: You went with the only logical course of action. There should never be a need to pull that sleeve again - at least in any of our lifetimes. As I mentioned in a previous comment, using a rosebud torch and a fair amount of patience you can remove the sleeve if it’s ever necessary. It’s interesting to me that the Ford N series never required undersized or oversize sleeves. I know that Ford “cured” their blocks for at least 90 days prior to boring. They cured axle and transmission castings, too. I wish that knew more about the metallurgy of cast iron.
Disappointing that you suffered that setback but that is exactly the sort of thing that will help dozens of engine builders avoid this issue on their projects in the future. Thanks for sharing!
I had a farmall m with a small crack in the block right below the deck, I put a small amount of silicone between the sleeve and the block where the crack was, after a couple years the sleeve cracked and started eating coolant right where the crack was. So I pulled the old sleeve and put a new one in and didn't put anything on it, it's been going strong for about 10 years now👍👍
I have a tip for you on the pan installation, I found that using longer bolts (with the heads removed) make it easier for one person to manage the pan and gasket. Use 2 or 3 and once you have it pushed into place it's easier to hold it with one hand and put the bolts in with the other. Trick I learned from military experience.
Always had an assortment of long "guide bolts" made in the more popular sizes. Good too for light/heavy hydraulic manifolds that were stacked horizontally/vertically.
Excellent approach on this repair. The E marking on this cylinder was key in determining the issue. I ALWAYS cringe when tearing back into a nicely painted tractor….. OH the HUMANITY …… 😆 But I am getting very good at touch up with a small paint brush !!!! I am so glad this turned out to be an original slightly over bored block cylinder & everything else was in spec. I was concerned about liner protrusion, but even that was in spec. Could have been so much worse.
I really like your assembly videos. Have you ever thought of visiting with or doing a video with Pete from Just A Few Acres Farm? He has a nice IH collection and some great assembly videos. Thank you for the good video.
IH engines as new as the DT407 found in many tractors including the 1256 are still dry sleeve even, I just rebuilt mine so it’s fresh in mind, ended up making my own sleeve puller and then later my own press to put the new ones back in. Running well!
@@joelcullumI have a lathe and a Bridgeport but you could do most of it without them. Made a puller by turning a piece of scrap plate down to fit in the parent bore but big enough to catch on the bottom of the sleeves and then just used all thread to pull them out with a bridge on the deck to clear the sleeve as they came out. Then for the press I got some 3/4” cold rolled round stock, threaded the ends to 9/16” NC to thread into the head bolt holes, made up a plate to bolt down across the top of those 4 rods with a 1” nut welded to the middle to press them back in with all-thread. You can press them in with something flat and then measure your protrusion or you can buy the pre-made sleeve puck from any IH engine parts supplier that sets all that for you. Or if you have a lathe yourself you can make your own. I used my mill to make all the surfaces flat and parallel just to make sure they pressed in square to start with but it probably wasn’t necessary.
I am impressed with your dedication to detail, although l can't imagine putting in this much time and effort into a Farmall H.....maybe a Farmall MTA or something with more hp and value..??
Thanks - this H is a bit special to me because it was my grandfather’s as well as the first tractor I ever drove as a kid, so that illogical sentimental value thing is at play here lol 😂 But in all seriousness, I’m not that into having any T/A type IH tractors due to the problems they always seem to have, plus I stay away from the IH gasoline-start diesels because they’ve almost always got cracked cylinder heads. So that pretty much restricts me to the gas powered straight-geared letter series like the H here, or Super M, or W-4’s 👍
Loctite is some terrifying but incredibly handy stuff. If I remember correctly, there's a video of sleeves getting machined out of a block, (Jim's machine shop I believe it was) to save it. They were successful but it took quite a bit of extra work because the boring machine couldn't reach the bottom of the bores without changing the setup. Those guys are magicians over there LOL
Enjoyed the video! I can't quite remember the Permatex types but one was 3H and the other was 3B i think. Back in the day my flat fender jeep had the L head engine and the previous owner used the 3B permatex to seal the head gasket. I couldn't get it loose, asked a mechanic i knew at the time and he suggested loosen all the head studs a thread or two and sprinkle a tiny bit of water through the carb with the engine idling. It worked! Probably not the safest method.
I saw Warren at Western truck and tractor repair take a cutting torch and lace the sleeve on either side of the sleeve and collapse it to take it out it works well. He is like you a wealth of knowledge.
That is going to work and run fine. The correct gasket and bit of retainer will do all that's needed to keep the liner in place. It's a low RPM, low output, low compression engine. At absolute worst, the piston will run a tad hotter but it will do so for a loooong time.
When I tore down our M in 1981, it had been running a loose sleeve for over 10 years. The rings were worn out on all 4 cylinders but there was virtually no wear ridge in the sleeves. The decision was made to just put a set of rings in it and hone the sleeves. It had never caused a problem and the only other thing of note was that the outside of the loose sleeve had oil all the way up to the ridge. Capillary attraction basically filled the space between the parent bore and the sleeve with oil. I can't say say how long she would have held up like that because 3 years after I rebuilt her, somebody used that tractor for target practice and when they were finished there weren't enough salvageable parts to even think of repairs. All that was left were a bunch of cracked and broken castings.
@@danielbutler578 A moron or morons doing that need a little return action. Then there's the a-holes who shoot farmers livestock. I heard of one city moron having a horse or something strapped to his vehicle thinking he had shot an elk or something! Long time ago so i forget exactly the circumstances. I recall my Dad losing a stack of bales to cigarette smoking hunters, who were out from the city hunting prairie chicken. My Uncle happened to catch them and made them cough up some cash. Whether it actually covered the cost of the bales BUT not the point when losing that feed for the winter.
Just a comment from an old engine recoditioner. As you were fitting the cylinder head I noticed that the head gasket did not fit close around the lip of the dry sleeve. In my thoughts the head gasket would not be able to clamp the sleeve to the block. Is there a slightly smaller head gasket that would fit more closely to the sleeve? May be I am too old to mack such a comment. Carl Bliim Woy Woy Australia.
Glad to see there wasn't any damage visable. I was worried that the sleeve/block bore was all chewed up. Hopefully with the right gasket and the retainer it holds.
Great information about the sleeves and makings. Always enjoy your videos. Yes time to get back to the building sight. Thinking before fall you will get dads yard tidied up of awesome machinery.
In General Motors-Holden (GMH) 1950's Australian made "Grey motors" each letter stamping on the block deck referred to the finished bore size & the hand matched piston of that size that would go in that bore. G.M.H did away with hand matching bores to pistons in the late 1960's as machining processes became more accurate or GMH just didn't care as much about longetivity & tolerances of their motors and slapped together what they had supplied by parts manufacturers. I had a 1954 Holden FJ ute that that was still running on it's original bore & pistons in 2015.
Good thinking exactly what I would have done especially about the rockers if they fit good if not maybe you can find some new bushings or just make some "let er eat"
Manufacturer grading parts to keep specs in tolerance. Like Ford grade crank, rod bearings, main bearings, main bearing bores, rod bearing bores, pistons, piston rings and the block
Thanks for the update Toby! Glad to hear things checked out well and getting back together. It’ll be worst it in the long run to know you addressed everything. Can’t wait for the next video!
Virtual identical as a Detroit diesel with sized sleeves, Detroit used a number stamp adjacent to each bore and had I think 5 different sizes. 71 series is also a dry sleeve engine
I know the Detroit diesel fuel injectors were also boxed with a letter. Forget how many. Whenever our Detroit engine builder was doing an engine, he preferably wanted the same letter size out of our "stores". They had a pile in stock that had been sent out for rebuild and returned. All under the same stock number, of course, but various letter sizes on the box for when the rebuilder calibrated them.
@@KStewart-th4sk ya the Detroits use a unit injector, the numbers on them indicate the type, nozzle size, amount of holes and the fuel flow rate for example HV7, N65, N70 and so on. Comparable to a carburetors jet sizes for example
Love your videos. I have learned a lot from you. My families farmall lineup includes a Cub, A, 2-B's, 2 H's, 3-M's, and a 560. I know you love caterpillar tractors. I was looking through a box of manuals I bought at a local swap meet, and I have a Servicemen's Reference Book. I thought you might want to have it. Let me know.
I bet you feel better getting that fixed and back together, even if you haven't started it yet. Thanks for the detailed explanations about your thought process as always. I can only guess they didn't want people replacing the bushings in those stamped pieces because they might bend too easily if not properly supported? Or maybe the wall is so thin it expands from the initial bushing press and after that you wouldn't get a tight fit? Hope you are enjoying the new building, looks great!
Squatch, i prefer Loctite 640 to the Permatex as the Loctite seems to set slower, allowing more time to get the sleeves in and correctly positioned. This was on blocks with shims for deck height, so if the protrusion was not correct, it was easier to get the sleeve back out to change the shims.
Hey up sq those rod bearing's were in excellent condition for such an old engine! Piston's used to be graded not sure if that's still a thing these days, enjoyed this fault finding content very much even though it sucked up your time
Thanks - like I said before, this engine only has about 250 hours’ run time on it since I rebuilt all that stuff 18 long years ago so I wasn’t expecting to find much wear on them 👍
My neighbor that is long gone now had one of these tractors, might of been a bit bigger. About 60 years ago my father was on a near by woodlot and got his tractor stuck, he had me take neighbors Farmall over there to pull it out, on the way over and on a dirt road, I was going in high gear and hit some bumps, the Farmall bounce it self sideways right into the ditch, that was my first tractor mishap..........
I remember a kid (about 16 years old) getting killed driving a tractor at high speeds when it left the road and pinned him. It was a hilly area. Many years later, a guy who married the neighbor's daughter, told us he had arrived on scene to see the poor kid kicking his last, pinned underneath. Nothing he could do. This was back in the 1960's. I would have been about the same age, he was a good fastball pitcher. That happened in the summer when school was out. Very sad day for that family. I am awful at remembering names but still recall his to this day.
@@KStewart-th4skI also know of someone young back in the 60s that a tractor did him in. I was around 10 when I put that Farmall in the ditch back in the 60s, it was my first of many very close calls, I could wright a whole page of close calls, only God knows why I'm still here, .....
There’s too high a chance of cylindrical distortion when knurling such a thin walled sleeve, in other words it would cease being perfectly round and start to develop ripples causing high and low spots around the perimeter.
No doubt by this time you have had many reports by the "Experts" about No3 cylinder. I began my apprenticeship as a Fitter and Machinest in an Engine reconditionering and I feel I must past on some information to you so that the engine will continue to perform as expected. Firstly Dry cylinder liners must be pressed in with an interference fit of around .002/.004 thou. to prevernt them moving and to allow the correct heat transfer to the cooling jacket. As you know wet liners are located into the crankcaes and sealed by O rings but located in place by the cylinder head gasket pressing on the raised lip. The head Gasket I noticed when you were fitting the head did not cover the lip on your cylinder liner. The problem you have will reappear very shortly afte you start the engine again.If the engine is allowed to run the expansion of the piston due to the heat of combustion will move this loose no3 sleeve until the lip breake off and the sleeve is pulled into the crankcase. Sorry about the long explanation but it is better to correct the problem now than latter which will bw a much bigger then. Carl Retired Automative Engineer. Woy Woy Australia.
8:47 a "simple" method to get a sleeve out is to take a microwave transformer, ditch the thin coils, replace them with thick welding wire with at least two turns, then power a large copper coil between them from 220v (online calculators exist). You put that inside the sleeve and let it radiate heat into the sleeve and it will slide out - by (gloved) hand. As always, when dealing with electricity, one must exercise caution. I know this works, i've done it at least 5 times (iirc) when i was afraid that pulling or hitting on the sleeves would result in damage, either because of the way the engine was designed (bottom jutting too thin or the sleeve itself was too thin). One last warning, do not try this on car engines. They are way too fragile too try this and it may result in actually breaking the engine block in some parts - don't ask me how i know. Expansion of metals is a powerful force.
About two years ago a super M in my area had a loose sleeve and it ended up breaking the collar at the top. The sleeve slipped down and it collided with the crankshaft and ended up looking like potato chips in the oil pan. Complete overhaul after that. It wasn't pretty!!
One thing I love about this channel is I always learn something. Thank for walking us through the troubleshooting process. And I had a sneaking suspicion that the cast rockers were going to make their way into this engine, as having only one in there would cause an eye twitch! 😉
Even learn something we didn't even think we needed to know!
Fun stuff!!
Oil pan did not leak till removal. Dry sleeve are very common in a lot of tractors from early 1900's to the 70's. Keep up the good work
Your way to work is outstanding. very interesting. and very well explained, THANK YOU.
Oh how I wish all engines were this easy to work on. EVERYTHING is accessible.
What memories. In 1963, I was an eleven year old kid looking at the IH catalog, and seeing these parts for what would be absurdly low prices today.
I,ve watched all of the Preparation H restoration project, and I have loved it all. I'm looking for Project #47 where you start up the engine and make sure the knock is gone.
Your restoration videos are spot on for tractor lovers like me who lack the finances and work space to do my own. You are a master mechanic in all of the skills required and I truly admire your work. Is there a #47 that is on UA-cam somewhere, or has it not been made yet?
Thank you for viewing, #47 has not yet been made due to me having been kept busy this summer getting my new storage building finished up and all the machines put in it before the fall weather gives way to winter - I should be back on the H within the next couple of weeks 👍
Pro move with the band of sleeve retainer at the bottom of the parent bore, and a band on the top of the sleeve. Disaster has come to those who liberally coat the bore and sleeve before installing. It is ready for the next 15,000 hours now. At 150 a year, that’s only another 100 years.
In the comment section of the previous H series video people were adamant not to use an adhesive, e.g. " Never and I mean Never put retaining compound on a sleeve. " I was surprised therefore to see you do just that. It makes sense to me.
I’ll share a little UA-cam secret with you - it doesn’t matter what I do, or don’t do, in any given video - there’s always somebody somewhere that is telling me I did it wrong lol 😂👍
@@squatch253 Haha, for what it's worth, I admire your skill and always enjoy your videos. Looking forward to the rock crusher restoration , hint hint.
It is so satisfying to watch a genuinely skilled mechanic at work.
FYI, piston rings rotate on the piston at about 1% of engine rpm, the cross hatching greatly helps with this ring rotation which is designed like this by the manufacturer so that wear in the bore and rings is evened out, especially important on initial break in as vertical scratches in the bore and the corresponding grooves formed in the rings would lock one into to the another preventing ring rotation and leading to uneven wear and bore/ring damage. If the engine manufacturer did not want the rings to rotate they would peg them like on small piston ported 2 stroke engines. The initial assembly advice of staggering the ring gaps is once again to prevent vertical scratches forming in the bore on initial break in. After some running the ring gap positions end up all over the place which no longer matters. This information came from the famous engine developer and all round genius Harry Ricardo's excellent book on 4 stroke engine technology
I was told over 50 years ago that Perfect Circle had determined sometime prior to the 1960s that rings rotate when the engine runs. Seems not unlike any loose washer that spins on its bolt or stud (or the fuel cap on my Farmall Cub!).
Electro Motive Diesel (EMD), does something similar with their engines, except it's the piston that rotates in the bore.
Whew! glad the H has only a minor hiccup. Gonna be a show piece when done. Thx.
A great job keeping your white t-shirt spotless…Knew an old timer who was a painter…He said they wore white t-shirts also to show how good of a painter they were 🤩👍🏻🧐
A good painter always has a rag, a bad painter always needs one
Easy to keep a white T-shirt clean if you only use white paint 😀
Never knew there was such a thing as sleeve retainer---Learn something new every day !!
I expected to see one of the Loctite retainers if he was going that route but i guess Permatex makes their version.
@@KStewart-th4sk Both are good, quality products. Aviation Form A Gasket is a Permatex product as well.
Toby, I’m glad everything checked out fine on the piston/sleeve assembly. I can’t wait to hear her run. Very enjoyable video. Thanks
Toby:
You went with the only logical course of action. There should never be a need to pull that sleeve again - at least in any of our lifetimes. As I mentioned in a previous comment, using a rosebud torch and a fair amount of patience you can remove the sleeve if it’s ever necessary.
It’s interesting to me that the Ford N series never required undersized or oversize sleeves. I know that Ford “cured” their blocks for at least 90 days prior to boring. They cured axle and transmission castings, too. I wish that knew more about the metallurgy of cast iron.
Beautiful tractor, it's such a joy to see the old iron ,better than brand new. 😊
Toby .. you are a walking ENCYCLOPEDIA of knowledge .. Man Oh Man .. the knowledge/info that you take time to SHARE !!! AMAZING !!! Tks a bunch .. 👊🍺🍺
Disappointing that you suffered that setback but that is exactly the sort of thing that will help dozens of engine builders avoid this issue on their projects in the future. Thanks for sharing!
I had a farmall m with a small crack in the block right below the deck, I put a small amount of silicone between the sleeve and the block where the crack was, after a couple years the sleeve cracked and started eating coolant right where the crack was. So I pulled the old sleeve and put a new one in and didn't put anything on it, it's been going strong for about 10 years now👍👍
I have a tip for you on the pan installation, I found that using longer bolts (with the heads removed) make it easier for one person to manage the pan and gasket. Use 2 or 3 and once you have it pushed into place it's easier to hold it with one hand and put the bolts in with the other. Trick I learned from military experience.
It appears that he uses a single "stud" for that.
Always had an assortment of long "guide bolts" made in the more popular sizes. Good too for light/heavy hydraulic manifolds that were stacked horizontally/vertically.
Excellent approach on this repair. The E marking on this cylinder was key in determining the issue.
I ALWAYS cringe when tearing back into a nicely painted tractor….. OH the HUMANITY ……
😆
But I am getting very good at touch up with a small paint brush !!!!
I am so glad this turned out to be an original slightly over bored block cylinder & everything else was in spec. I was concerned about liner protrusion, but even that was in spec.
Could have been so much worse.
I really like your assembly videos. Have you ever thought of visiting with or doing a video with Pete from Just A Few Acres Farm? He has a nice IH collection and some great assembly videos. Thank you for the good video.
Pete and I know each other 👍
Thanks for recapping the a,b,c,d,e of the bore.
Great common-sense troubleshooting. Thanks for the video.
IH engines as new as the DT407 found in many tractors including the 1256 are still dry sleeve even, I just rebuilt mine so it’s fresh in mind, ended up making my own sleeve puller and then later my own press to put the new ones back in. Running well!
How did you fabricate it? I am going to be removing and installing in the next few days. Thx!🤠👍
@@joelcullumI have a lathe and a Bridgeport but you could do most of it without them.
Made a puller by turning a piece of scrap plate down to fit in the parent bore but big enough to catch on the bottom of the sleeves and then just used all thread to pull them out with a bridge on the deck to clear the sleeve as they came out.
Then for the press I got some 3/4” cold rolled round stock, threaded the ends to 9/16” NC to thread into the head bolt holes, made up a plate to bolt down across the top of those 4 rods with a 1” nut welded to the middle to press them back in with all-thread. You can press them in with something flat and then measure your protrusion or you can buy the pre-made sleeve puck from any IH engine parts supplier that sets all that for you. Or if you have a lathe yourself you can make your own.
I used my mill to make all the surfaces flat and parallel just to make sure they pressed in square to start with but it probably wasn’t necessary.
I am impressed with your dedication to detail, although l can't imagine putting in this much time and effort into a Farmall H.....maybe a Farmall MTA or something with more hp and value..??
Thanks - this H is a bit special to me because it was my grandfather’s as well as the first tractor I ever drove as a kid, so that illogical sentimental value thing is at play here lol 😂 But in all seriousness, I’m not that into having any T/A type IH tractors due to the problems they always seem to have, plus I stay away from the IH gasoline-start diesels because they’ve almost always got cracked cylinder heads. So that pretty much restricts me to the gas powered straight-geared letter series like the H here, or Super M, or W-4’s 👍
M&W makes nice overhaul sets as does HyCapacity.
Loctite is some terrifying but incredibly handy stuff.
If I remember correctly, there's a video of sleeves getting machined out of a block, (Jim's machine shop I believe it was) to save it. They were successful but it took quite a bit of extra work because the boring machine couldn't reach the bottom of the bores without changing the setup. Those guys are magicians over there LOL
At least your getting the feel of being a Farmall technician back in the 50's working on them when they were new
This is why your channel is one of the very best channels out there. Well done.
Nice to have a definitive answer, and I'm certain that with the right gasket it'll be just as good as it was before for another 18 years. 👍
Keep on keeping on ! Old iron needs a second chance!
Enjoyed the video! I can't quite remember the Permatex types but one was 3H and the other was 3B i think. Back in the day my flat fender jeep had the L head engine and the previous owner used the 3B permatex to seal the head gasket. I couldn't get it loose, asked a mechanic i knew at the time and he suggested loosen all the head studs a thread or two and sprinkle a tiny bit of water through the carb with the engine idling. It worked! Probably not the safest method.
Normally my luck would dictate a full rebuild but i completely agree with how you are going about this. Hopefully your luck is better than mine😂
Exactly what I thought you would do. And now there is no doubt that everything is as perfect as it can be.
Sorry for your troubles with this engine but I am enjoying the videos.
I saw Warren at Western truck and tractor repair take a cutting torch and lace the sleeve on either side of the sleeve and collapse it to take it out it works well. He is like you a wealth of knowledge.
Yes, Western Truck and Tractor Repair is a Channel i like watching too. South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Diagnostics, Watch Wes Work, ScannerDanner.
Nice work, and spot on assessment with the rebuild or not
Sir,Thank you for taking us along on this journey. Sure hope the “H” behaves itself and runs as it should. Always good vids here.
Progress is progress. What you found really makes sense as to why is was happening.
Nice troubleshooting, reass'y observations and interesting manufacturing history.
Thanks for the update on the H Toby! Fingers crossed, there's no noise after this. Cheers
Hey Toby. It's a good plan. Total engine rebuild on a tractor seeing gentle use seems a little spendy. It'll be Squatched,,so it'll be better.
A very competent way to solve a problem, and all it mostly cost was a bit of extra time.
Damm good sealer ....quality workmanship , im sure the engine will be fine.!!!
I have had good luck with the sleeve retainer. You should be fine.
Wow! I learned something today! Good job! Glad you referred to it as a engine and not a motor! Best of luck on this project
That is going to work and run fine. The correct gasket and bit of retainer will do all that's needed to keep the liner in place. It's a low RPM, low output, low compression engine. At absolute worst, the piston will run a tad hotter but it will do so for a loooong time.
When I tore down our M in 1981, it had been running a loose sleeve for over 10 years. The rings were worn out on all 4 cylinders but there was virtually no wear ridge in the sleeves. The decision was made to just put a set of rings in it and hone the sleeves. It had never caused a problem and the only other thing of note was that the outside of the loose sleeve had oil all the way up to the ridge. Capillary attraction basically filled the space between the parent bore and the sleeve with oil. I can't say say how long she would have held up like that because 3 years after I rebuilt her, somebody used that tractor for target practice and when they were finished there weren't enough salvageable parts to even think of repairs. All that was left were a bunch of cracked and broken castings.
@@danielbutler578 A moron or morons doing that need a little return action. Then there's the a-holes who shoot farmers livestock. I heard of one city moron having a horse or something strapped to his vehicle thinking he had shot an elk or something! Long time ago so i forget exactly the circumstances. I recall my Dad losing a stack of bales to cigarette smoking hunters, who were out from the city hunting prairie chicken. My Uncle happened to catch them and made them cough up some cash. Whether it actually covered the cost of the bales BUT not the point when losing that feed for the winter.
Just a comment from an old engine recoditioner. As you were fitting the cylinder head I noticed that the head gasket did not fit close around the lip of the dry sleeve. In my thoughts the head gasket would not be able to clamp the sleeve to the block. Is there a slightly smaller head gasket that would fit more closely to the sleeve? May be I am too old to mack such a comment. Carl Bliim Woy Woy Australia.
Glad to see there wasn't any damage visable. I was worried that the sleeve/block bore was all chewed up. Hopefully with the right gasket and the retainer it holds.
Wow... Great story on the Farmall H engine... But the best part was the engine was so clean and beautiful...
everything sure does look good, i eagerly await the next video and the sound of that h running properly. best wishes.
Great information about the sleeves and makings. Always enjoy your videos. Yes time to get back to the building sight. Thinking before fall you will get dads yard tidied up of awesome machinery.
Keep on juggling those projects, it always amazes me what you get accomplish.
Excellent video that is the right way to do the repair without doing a full complete engine rebuild keep up the great videos
In General Motors-Holden (GMH) 1950's Australian made "Grey motors" each letter stamping on the block deck referred to the finished bore size & the hand matched piston of that size that would go in that bore. G.M.H did away with hand matching bores to pistons in the late 1960's as machining processes became more accurate or GMH just didn't care as much about longetivity & tolerances of their motors and slapped together what they had supplied by parts manufacturers. I had a 1954 Holden FJ ute that that was still running on it's original bore & pistons in 2015.
Absolutely use sleeve retainer! It will be fine.
Good thinking exactly what I would have done especially about the rockers if they fit good if not maybe you can find some new bushings or just make some "let er eat"
Don’t you love that Aviation gasket cement 👌clean surfaces new gasket … no leaks !
Manufacturer grading parts to keep specs in tolerance. Like Ford grade crank, rod bearings, main bearings, main bearing bores, rod bearing bores, pistons, piston rings and the block
Thanks for the update Toby! Glad to hear things checked out well and getting back together. It’ll be worst it in the long run to know you addressed everything. Can’t wait for the next video!
Virtual identical as a Detroit diesel with sized sleeves, Detroit used a number stamp adjacent to each bore and had I think 5 different sizes. 71 series is also a dry sleeve engine
I know the Detroit diesel fuel injectors were also boxed with a letter. Forget how many. Whenever our Detroit engine builder was doing an engine, he preferably wanted the same letter size out of our "stores". They had a pile in stock that had been sent out for rebuild and returned. All under the same stock number, of course, but various letter sizes on the box for when the rebuilder calibrated them.
@@KStewart-th4sk ya the Detroits use a unit injector, the numbers on them indicate the type, nozzle size, amount of holes and the fuel flow rate for example HV7, N65, N70 and so on. Comparable to a carburetors jet sizes for example
learned a couple of things, thanks
Thanks
Wow. A dry sleeve. Never thought about that. A great fix.
Thanks for Sharing! 👍
Love your videos. I have learned a lot from you. My families farmall lineup includes a Cub, A, 2-B's, 2 H's, 3-M's, and a 560. I know you love caterpillar tractors. I was looking through a box of manuals I bought at a local swap meet, and I have a Servicemen's Reference Book. I thought you might want to have it. Let me know.
I really like how meticulous you are . Now a days every thing just gets slaped together . Your videos are awesome. Denis from Santa Rosa Ca
Great repair and reassembly. We all hope it runs perfectly on next start up.
Excellent video Squatch 253 (Toby :) ) thank you share this information and yes very good information also interesting to watch on your findings !
Methodical, logical, systematic diagnosis!
Yeah once you start the launch sequence with loctite it's game on, the clock is ticking and fast in my educational experiences.
Fastest (and best) engine assembly in the West. Well, in Minnesota. Thanks for the video
Very very interesting. I did not know about sleeve retainer compound. Seems like they’ve got something for everything!!
A belt and suspenders approach to engine conditions. Well Done.! 14:34.
I seem to learn something new every time I watch one of Squatchs videos. Great channel.
That was great....cannot for the life of me figure out why you don't have 400,000 subs!!
I bet you feel better getting that fixed and back together, even if you haven't started it yet. Thanks for the detailed explanations about your thought process as always. I can only guess they didn't want people replacing the bushings in those stamped pieces because they might bend too easily if not properly supported? Or maybe the wall is so thin it expands from the initial bushing press and after that you wouldn't get a tight fit? Hope you are enjoying the new building, looks great!
As you were reinstalling the head, I had visions of squashed Squatch fingers!
I love this channel so much!! You are a regular Squatch-a-pedia....Amazing!! I wish I knew 1/10 of the stuff you've forgotten!!! Many Thanks!
Great episode, learning something new each time!
Squatch, i prefer Loctite 640 to the Permatex as the Loctite seems to set slower, allowing more time to get the sleeves in and correctly positioned. This was on blocks with shims for deck height, so if the protrusion was not correct, it was easier to get the sleeve back out to change the shims.
good info Squatch! you the man. good content as always
Good call! I'm sure that will work, and I won't be around to see you re-visit it.
Hey up sq those rod bearing's were in excellent condition for such an old engine! Piston's used to be graded not sure if that's still a thing these days, enjoyed this fault finding content very much even though it sucked up your time
Thanks - like I said before, this engine only has about 250 hours’ run time on it since I rebuilt all that stuff 18 long years ago so I wasn’t expecting to find much wear on them 👍
Very nicely done!
Hope u had a good time at almelund thrashing show saw you looking at the repair manuals you and senior was very focused enjoy all ur videos
Oh, I forgot to say.... What a beautiful tractor.
I love how your “H”is so clean. A pleasure to work on, I bet. 😊
I agree. Cleaning up an engine before working on it always makes the job go smoother.
Tyvm Squatch..... !!!!
Hope it works. I’ll sure remember those meanings. 👍🏻
My neighbor that is long gone now had one of these tractors, might of been a bit bigger. About 60 years ago my father was on a near by woodlot and got his tractor stuck, he had me take neighbors Farmall over there to pull it out, on the way over and on a dirt road, I was going in high gear and hit some bumps, the Farmall bounce it self sideways right into the ditch, that was my first tractor mishap..........
I remember a kid (about 16 years old) getting killed driving a tractor at high speeds when it left the road and pinned him. It was a hilly area. Many years later, a guy who married the neighbor's daughter, told us he had arrived on scene to see the poor kid kicking his last, pinned underneath. Nothing he could do. This was back in the 1960's. I would have been about the same age, he was a good fastball pitcher. That happened in the summer when school was out. Very sad day for that family. I am awful at remembering names but still recall his to this day.
@@KStewart-th4skI also know of someone young back in the 60s that a tractor did him in. I was around 10 when I put that Farmall in the ditch back in the 60s, it was my first of many very close calls, I could wright a whole page of close calls, only God knows why I'm still here, .....
Extremely educational episode.
Good job there Toby
Great video, thanks for the update!
Would knurling the cylinders on the outside surface work? Seems that would work as well. Nothing wrong with what you're doing.
There’s too high a chance of cylindrical distortion when knurling such a thin walled sleeve, in other words it would cease being perfectly round and start to develop ripples causing high and low spots around the perimeter.
No doubt by this time you have had many reports by the "Experts" about No3 cylinder. I began my apprenticeship as a Fitter and Machinest in an Engine reconditionering and I feel I must past on some information to you so that the engine will continue to perform as expected. Firstly Dry cylinder liners must be pressed in with an interference fit of around .002/.004 thou. to prevernt them moving and to allow the correct heat transfer to the cooling jacket. As you know wet liners are located into the crankcaes and sealed by O rings but located in place by the cylinder head gasket pressing on the raised lip. The head Gasket I noticed when you were fitting the head did not cover the lip on your cylinder liner. The problem you have will reappear very shortly afte you start the engine again.If the engine is allowed to run the expansion of the piston due to the heat of combustion will move this loose no3 sleeve until the lip breake off and the sleeve is pulled into the crankcase. Sorry about the long explanation but it is better to correct the problem now than latter which will bw a much bigger then.
Carl Retired Automative Engineer. Woy Woy Australia.
8:47 a "simple" method to get a sleeve out is to take a microwave transformer, ditch the thin coils, replace them with thick welding wire with at least two turns, then power a large copper coil between them from 220v (online calculators exist). You put that inside the sleeve and let it radiate heat into the sleeve and it will slide out - by (gloved) hand. As always, when dealing with electricity, one must exercise caution. I know this works, i've done it at least 5 times (iirc) when i was afraid that pulling or hitting on the sleeves would result in damage, either because of the way the engine was designed (bottom jutting too thin or the sleeve itself was too thin). One last warning, do not try this on car engines. They are way too fragile too try this and it may result in actually breaking the engine block in some parts - don't ask me how i know. Expansion of metals is a powerful force.
Wouldn’t heating the sleeve make it even tighter in the bore? Metal grows with heat.
About two years ago a super M in my area had a loose sleeve and it ended up breaking the collar at the top. The sleeve slipped down and it collided with the crankshaft and ended up looking like potato chips in the oil pan. Complete overhaul after that. It wasn't pretty!!
I love loctite, good work!