New Valair dual disk clutch!! why I chose this over my Clutchmaster FX1200
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2022
- We are installing the New Valair Ceramic dual disk clutch in this video and going over why I chose to remove the Clutchmaster FX1200 clutch that I had put in the truck a year ago. some of the reasons for swapping the clutch you might agree with and some you might disagree with but I really can't bring myself to put the transmission back into the truck and continue to run the FX1200 and I wanted to go over some of the reasons in this video.
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Less surface area on a ceramic clutch means more holding power.
Nice to see that your transmission is back 😬👍🏻
Man looks like those Clutchmasters wearing out pretty fast…
I'm happy it's back, I would have never expected the wear on the clutch that fast...
Thank you for this video. I was torn between this fx1200, but organic, and a valair dual organic quiet. You settled it for me. Looking forward to your superstick install video. I’m a driveway mechanic too. I don’t have a transmission jack, but I think I’ll try to source one before I do my clutch. Thanks again
I need to look into a tranny jack too, its such a pain to do it with a standard jack unless you have a second one set of hands. I'm really looking forward to driving this clutch and comparing it to the fx1200 but I just hope it's nothing like the fx1200....
I just bought the cheap harbor freight transmission jack and it's been great for years so far.
Just went through this on my megacab. I got the truck from grants pass about a year ago. Had 100k on the dd organic non quiet version valair. I knew the clutch was worn, but I could bust loose 4th on dry pavement. And shift super fast. It was a badass clutch. Until Diamond K in Halsey installed a gooseneck hitch and slipped it burning it out completely. Then the nightmare started. The flywheel was smoked in hot spots, and they filled the rivet holes with friction material. It was done. They didn't do anything about it, so after pulling the clutch I decided I'm going to order another. Went with the quiet version and stayed organic. Tow rig with 4.56 and 37s. Previous owner put anti seize all over the input and it wore a groove in the snout. I didn't catch the hub retainer snout and greased everything. First drive I had a disk dragging. So I pulled it again. Cleaned the splines, and replaced the snout with Mercedes part. I got a new mopar pivot ball. Clip. Yes the washer is gone. And new hydraulics. I had bad dual phantom engagement and the trans didn't want to shift since a disk was dragging. The transmission will always be notchy driving it and ive basically parked the truck. I've ordered 3 sets of hydraulics. I killed the nss. Had to use a push button because the rod was all the way short. I even cut the rod on one set. I've never been able to get it back to what it was before. I will say it hops in reverse. And that the owner of valair is really helpful. I have a custom tool to check the travel of the fork, but the truck has been parked, and i havent had time. I've gone amsoil 50 to diamond g56, and all sorts of things to try and fix it. It's super noisy even though it's the quiet version. It was quiet for a couple days. The only time I've had it quiet was during break in.. If I adjust it right to the throwout bearing against the pressure plate. It's quiet and it works okay. After a week or so of driving it starts rattling again. I've probably knocked 10 years off my life from this. Lol. I hope you have a better experience. I too rip the truck occasionally. It's around 550ish. I got rid of my 12mm stroker 05 because I was killing parts for a tow rig. I'm glad I watched this because I was about to buy the fx1200 clutch after watching your video.
Damn man what a headache, I almost want to take my first video down when I installed the fx1200 because I don't want anyone making the same mistake I did but with that clutchmaster it never did shift right, it was always super notchy and unpredictable. Let me know if there is anything I can help you with it doesn't sound like your too far away.
@Cargill450 yeah, I haven't been able to work on it yet. No joke, I had a shop do dynatrac balljoints and new yukon free spin bearings and they screwed it up. I don't have a ton of free time or a shop, and it seems a guy can't even pay for quality work anymore. So I haven't had the truck for a month and half. I just got it back and drove it and I'm losing rail pressure and a ton of white smoke and chunky startup. I gave away my old cp3 when i went to the 12mm exergy pump on my old truck, and i spent 2500 dollars last week on the front end stuff. Was thinking about getting a cp3 today, but I'm going to wait for a balance/kill test next week so im not throwing parts at it. Lol. I was planning on addressing the clutch today, but I got called in for work. Someday soon I'll get it figured out. Your video was helpful for pulling the g56 in my driveway, I appreciate that. And I did the rear main without issue. I can pull and install a g56 in the driveway on blocks in a day start to finish now. The big hf jack is a life saver. Thanks 👊
I have the same clutchmasters FX1200 ceramic and It sounds like a Ducatti with an open basket dry clutch.... crazy loud!!!! Changed From ATF to Delvac 50 and the noise went completely away.... until the Delvac warmed up and the noise was back. I love the clutch, fast shifting, zero slip..... but I can't take the noise.
I will be going with the Valair quite organic dual disk.
Yeah I can't take the noise and you hit the nail on the head on how it sounds too, I am really looking forward to this new clutch.
@@Cargill450 we chatted about the noise this summer.... I thought I messed up the install ha
Yeah I remember that conversation, turns out that's just how the dumb things are......
Ducati!!! Now I know exactly how that sounds! Well done
@@davedavidson9638 you're hearing gear rollover, not midplate rattle. ANY clutch other than the factory dual mass flywheel setup will cause the G56 to have gear rollover. It is alleviated some by running 50 weight as it's a little thicker than ATF, more so when the fluid is cold, but you'll never completely get away from it.
When the time comes to replace my clutch I plan on using the valair dual disc, bit I think im going with the organic one. I've read a ton of good reviews about them
I have too and it's mostly why I didn't go southbend but honestly after running the clutchmaster I'm super nervous about what it's going to feel like
@@Cargill450 the southbend is just too noisy for my taste, and the valair isn't supposed to rodeo in reverse.
Thats one thing I was afraid of but your always going to get a little bit of noise but it would be nice if the thing didn't try to hump you to death in reverse
@@Cargill450 I have no clue what clutch I have now, but it bucks so hard in reverse.. its noisy when I first start it but after I engage it once it shuts up lol
Mine had a southbend in it when I bought it and it wasn't too bad, it would buck a bit in reverse but it wasn't bad, it was noisy though. Then we had the clutchmaster...... the noise was horrible and reverse was a horrible experience haha
That clutchmasters clutch wasn’t getting an even clamp load, as if there was slight preload on the fingers. If youre running extra washers under your pivot ball you might actually have preload from the throwout.
How would you fix that, I didn't have any washers under the pivot ball 🤔
Pretty sure stock setting for pivot ball is one small washer
Just a heads up ceramic clutches are not good for daily driving use. They are made for beating on the truck and “racing”. If you would have got the organic fx1200 you probably would have a different outcome.
I 100% agree buy I will say this ceramic Valair is night and day as far as drivability.
Did you ever swap your short shift out for the factory one and do some driving with the factory shifter on the clutchmasters? If so did it seem make a difference for you or did you prefer one or the other
I like the factory shifter over the shorter shifter, you had me thinking on that one because I couldn’t remember if I did or not
@@Cargill450 yeah I’m currently torn between doing another one of the fx1200 organic clutches but driving a little smart or doing the ceramic fx1200. My power levels technically should have a ceramic but the organic held pretty well until I did stupid things while driving with it. Like not downshifting when I should to pull with someone on the highway and heat soaked the clutch really bad. I’m running the b&m short throw shifter and absolutely love it. It takes a couple thousand miles to break it in so it’s not so stiff but once you get it worn in it’s a dream shifting
@TheWheeler2299 they are tough clutches that’s for sure but just be ready for the thing to be a light switch on engagement. I really want to do the B&M tower one of these days, I have heard nothing but good about them.
So after a couple months how has it treated you? I just received mine today, and would like to know what to expect
This clutch has been great! Still quiet and for a full ceramic clutch it's very drivable, not too grabby at all. It doesn't drive like an organic clutch by any means but compared to some of the other clutches I have been around this one is by far the best to drive.
Do you still like the valair clutch I'm getting ready to change my clutch in my 4th gen ram and want a good pulling clutch as I work it hard daily with about 10,000 lbs. Or more hooked on its back. I am not sure what I have now but I have been lucky enough to get the last 175 thousand miles out of it hoping to find a replacement to last that again.
I really enjoy the valair clutch I have in my truck but that being said you don't have to go ceramic like I did. I think depending on the power the organic version would 100% be a rock solid option.
Cool video thanks a lot. You’ll be fine with the organic valair clutch towing 10000 lbs. The last thing I worry about is the clutch. It holds strong when towing with a tuned truck even on max effort.