Master Razor-Sharp Lathe & Bench Chisels Using Your Shopsmith Sharpening Guide
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2023
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: Sharp lathe chisels are essential for turning bowls or spindles. But, how many times have you tried to get that precise cutting edge on a lathe chisel... and failed?
Shopsmith has eliminated the guesswork by developing a guide that lets you put a super sharp cutting edge on all your basic set of five Shopsmith (Buck Bros.) chisels - lathe and bench types. The Sharpening Guide mounts on your Mark 7 or Mark V and has been specially designed to give you a variety of preset angle settings for skew chisels, gouge chisels, round nose chisels, parting tools, bench chisels and even shaper cutters.
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🟢 Shopsmith Sharpening Guide ONLY on Amazon: amzn.to/3p1R8iQ
🟢 🟢 Shopsmith Sharpening Guide Kit, with guide, 12" steel disc, 3 sheets of abrasive on Amazon: amzn.to/43xmsVD
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#Shopsmith #ShopsmithSharpeningGuide #ShopsmithLatheToolSharpeningJig
FYI: The best stuff begins around the 15:00 mark.
What happened at 4:45? Was your camera mounted on the machine? ;)
The stuff with the belt sander starting at 15:00 is what I was waiting for. That will be mounted on my sanding shorty i can move over to where I'm turning and sharpen as I go.
@@edmalin7359 I’m not entirely sure. I suspect that the tripod was either against the bench tubes or the leg. I have so much worthless footage!
Another great video. I hadn't ever seen the sharpening guide in use, or any explanation of it at all so now I'm like the guy with the checkbook - "That's it!"
This might be one of your worst videos but also one of your best videos. Always very informative
Well said, Ron. Thank you for watching. Scott.
That was excellent!! I've had the sharpening guide for some time now but never quite understood how to use it. Played around with it when I first bought it but became frustrated and just hung it on the wall. I started my turning journey with carbide tools and have been using them exclusively and successfully for 2 years now. However I would like to integrate some conventional tools in my turning process but the sharpening has always intimidated me. This will help me immensely. Thanks, Scott for another fantastic video. So appreciated.
Happy to help, John. Yes, carbide tools are quite handy, but they are scrapers so they require a lot more sanding. Shearing is where it's at. Scott
Love it. Using the Skew to scrape off paint. As my dad said one time when he was using a Flat Head Screwdriver to pry off the head of the engine; “Son, This is a good example of what not to use for prying off a head”.
Dad was rarely wrong.
I needed this video! My used Mk V 520 came with the sharpening jig plate, with no hardware (I thought.)
Found the hardware and the instructions & template in a separate box.
I have another jig to sharpen the skews on a bench grinder, but that’s all it will work on. Can’t wait for your solution to mounting the jig on the extension table so that it can be repositioned.
I'd like to know the back story of this jig (if there is one). It's so simple, which makes it cool.
Probably a good idea to remove the dust chute (if there is one) on the belt sander when using this jig with it.
That’s a great point. This sander has an aluminum dust shoot, but the modern plastic dust shoot will certainly melt if exposed to just the right hot embers.
@@MyGrowthRings And. you need to make sure there isn't sawdust in the chute. ;) per Cap'n Eddie
ua-cam.com/video/aaqIGVmVHY8/v-deo.htmlm15s
Also a possible problem causing a fire or explosion in a dust collection system.
@@edmalin7359 For sure, though I have an interesting story to share about that.
Another great video Scott, always lear something new. Thank you !
Thanks, Tom.
Thank you for featuring this Scott. I tend to watch your videos and buy whatever it is that you are using, that's why I'm saving up to make a Chopsmith right now. I'm ordering one of those sharpening jigs next. I had totally forgotten about that one and I was looking at the strip sander version instead. This one is closer to my current budget. The Shopsmith also works great for gunsmithing. You can drill and tap holes for scope rails, refinish metal and wood parts, create grips and stocks, and I'm even going to use it to set the headspace on a Thompson Contender barrel using the strip sander and a simple jig.
This was excellent!
Thanks!
Thanks Scott for the info & demo of the sharpening jig. Ages ago, I was able to attend the 1st day of a traveling seminar w/Doug Reid and I think I remember that he suggested/preferred some angles on the jig other than 0 for the different chisels. In the Q&A, could you demonstrate the jig's angle adjustments? I've been following you since way, way back on the Mr. Toolhunter blog and have learned so much from the blog, but especially your videos. I'm definitely more of a visual learner so they have provided such a boost in my education on how to use the SS and its many accessories. Keep up the good work!
That’s great to hear that we’ve been together that long. Yes, I’m talk about the jig’s adjustments and limitations in the follow-up.
Thank you Scott, I just purchased one of these a few months back and have not used it yet. Thanks for show us how too.
Perfect timing. Time to make sawdust!
I prefer the belt sander as well. Remember, when using the disc sander, only use a disc that has the adhesive backing-not the velcro. You risk digging in and getting a catch because the velcro backed disc is softer then the it would be if sandpaper is glued or adhered. Great stuff!
Excellent reminder.
This was a very good episode. I think a great video would be to show the correct way to change grits on the disk. Thanks!
Thanks Berry. I actually did cover that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/KAuJQSs1U8E/v-deo.html
Great explanation. I simply could not catch the nack for this jig.
It does take practice.
Keep trying, with your level of expertise you will get it.
@@williamSmith-fv5hi I’ve pretty much given up on this jig. I need a system that also can grind bevels on plane irons, chisels, and non-shopsmith (mate) turning chisels.
@@woodshopnerdery I must confess to having a Work Sharp system for chisels and plane irons. It does a great job.
Thanks again
You are welcome.
Great video, Scott.
Thanks, Brad.
Thank you for this video. I have the jig and wondered about using my belt sander for the very reason you stated; maintaining a low temp. With that said, I did follow Doug Reid’s suggested “adjusted” angles for each chisel. Perhaps, in the follow-up, you could speak to the benefits behind his suggestions.
🎵Shake, Rattle, and Roll"!😅 Seriously, Scott, Thanks for this great video. I really learned a lot. My brother has this jig and no directions. We'll have to get together and try it out.
Rock on!
Great little tutorial on using that SS sharpening jig. I really never knew that the sanding disk could be used to sharpen & shape our lathe gouges & chisels. Ive gone to proper grinding wheel & nice stones and free hand the edge. One key to good lathe work is using sharp tools! Sharpen often.
Are these jigs still sold?
Yep. SS sells them though their website and through Amazon: amzn.to/3WZfHtz
Thanks, and you are spot on.
I never got this jig but I have always been pretty decent at sharpening chisels and drill bits. I use to use my disk sander then I built a 2x 72 knife grinder. OMG it is much much easier to use a belt than a disk. I have a few carbide cutters but to be honest... Nothing makes as good of a cut as high speed steel. Even in machine shop at tech school the best surface finishes on metal came from High speed steel. Carbide just hold up longer but they are impossible to get a razor sharp edge. I use to use a trizact A30 (800) belt on my skew. You could shave with it. That belt is also great on hand planes too.
Great Video I have not seen that jig used in a many of years. One thing about it if you are going to get into turning you need to get a proper setup for grinding and get good at it. But their
Thanks for the video. I’ve also seen a video where they used the strip sander.
Yep, but that’s slightly less convenient due to the lack of a miter slot. It works very well for longer tools like the bowl gouge when equipped with the dedicated support.
I had followed Doug's 3 part video on sharpening and found as a beginner it was easier using carbide tip tools. I know it the easy way out, BUT it does take some skill to sharpen HSS or Mild Steel lathe tools. AND remember to keep the tool cool when sharpening.
My grandkids also use carbide turning tools, so I get it.
Good video! Using the knob screws to attach jig to holes drilled on the side table I’m able to change angles.
Of course. Did I say you couldn't? If so, it was late!
Definitely going to give the jog a try, it has been in the drawer since I got my machine, been using my Tormek but don’t like the hollow grind and started using a Work Sharp that was given to me, all of these other sharpening systems require more setup time and/or jigs for each job.
I also dislike a hollow ground on a turning tool.
thanks Scott, I inherited that guide/jig in one of my Shopsmith purchases. Charlie in Central Ohio
Do you turn?
@@MyGrowthRings - Scott, that is the only operation I have NOT done yet on the ShopSmith !!
I have one of these in my drawer that it's time to sell.
Scott, you answered two of my questions.
1. I passed on getting the SS sharpening jig because I didn’t know it could be used while in lathe mode. Had I known that… I might not have spent the money on upgrading my Tormek!
2. The Scraper is useless to me with the factory grind. Trying to scrape with its sharp edge always catches and scares the be-Jesus out of me. Blunting and burring the tip might let me finally use it with confidence.
I do still have a question… What is the angle for the tip grind on the scraper?
Thanks for the tips bud!
I agree with your number 2 statement. By presenting the tool at the center, never above, of the workpiece is a big help. To make it a better tool for me I ground it to be a double bevel scraper. Lot more forgiving. IMHO
The angle isn’t critical at all. As long as you have a back bevel, the scraper works fine with a very blunt edge.
@@dwightl5863 thanks.
Again, no matter how hard I try, you aways teach me something. This time, two things. REMOVE THE GARD SO YOU DON'T MELT IT! Use a piece of plywood covered with aluminum foil to protect the way tubes.
Thanks for the video ! Should be very helpful for the SS lathe chisels and would most likely work on other brands .
We have bought a special grinder and jigs to attain the correct angle,but very confusing coming up with the proper settings.
Maybe sometimes SS means super simple! Will be giving it a whirl !😉
Great point!
OMGosh I saw one of those at a garage sale and walked right by it. If i remember correctly it was priced at 20 dollars. Palm in face!!
Also regarding belt sander sharpening, i hope you will mention what Geoffrey Baker has done. He has made significant modifications and uses non shopsmith accessories but i really believe he has come up with an excellent sharpening system. This really is leading into a whole other topic including what one might do beyond tuneups to improve the beltsander…
He has taken it to the extreme, hasn’t he?
Time for some rust remover. The redo video sounded a little better, least on my to me.
Thanks for the “sharp” presentation! I guess this might also be a reason to pickup a second machine, or engineer a shorty.
That’s not a bad idea. A sharpening/sanding center is always handy.
@@MyGrowthRings A second (and third) Shopsmith are extremely useful! Dedicated drill press, sanding station, infeed/outfeed support, backup unit... the possibilities are endless. With 5, you can have one in each setup!
Another great video! I inherited a Craftsman set of turning chisels. Unfortunately they are too short to work with this jig!?!
Bummer.
I wish you went thru this with the HF chisel set. First not sure if this jig can work with all of those chisels as they exceed the variety of the 5 shopsmith set. Their optimal geometry maybe different, and finally im not completely sure i am even identifying each chisel correctly! This is an excellent very helpful topic! Thanks alot!
Todd, I’ll address that in the follow-up, but the jig isn’t very useful beyond the five piece set from SS.
When you stand in front of a Shopsmith your only limitation is your imagination.
Scott, will you cover the jig for the strip sander in the Q/A? I've come across the sharpening jig accessory but not found any resources on how it is used. Thanks for another great demo.
I will one of these days. Currently I don’t own it.
Thanks Scott, that's just what I needed to finally do some turning. I still have to figure out how to raise the ShopSmith to a height that is comfortable for my 6'2" frame and yet retain some mobility so I can wheel it outside my shop every time I want to use it. This is not so easy when you've only got a few square inches of shop space to work in. Looking forward to your follow up video.
I suggest making a couple blocks to lift the machine up once you get it into position.
That’s what I did made two platforms on for each side to the height I needed.
@@craigkrohn2710 I think that’s the most logical approach, though I’d love to see other ideas.
interesting comment...I'm 5'4" and I'm thinking about construction a wooden cabinet to replace the legs and then set the headrests onto that cabinet so I can LOWER my ShopSmiths !!
@@everydaylifewiththebensons285 I’ve seen it done successfully, I’ve even seen it lowered onto two cabinets with the front bench tube removed for better wheelchair access.
Hmm I maybe doing this wrong but ruffing gouge I think is 13degrees to the left of zero same with the spindle gouge. Skew is 11 degrees? Parting I'm not sure. Round nose at zero? I use a grinder to get a burr free hand. This jig works well for shaping the bevels using 60 grit disks. A fine grinding stone to sharpen while turning. Please fell free to correct me. Every so often I use this setup to reset the bevels. Works fine.
This jig, set at 0 degrees will grind the tools at their factory angle. You are free to adjust them to any angle you prefer. I no long use the jig or the carbon steel tools sharpened with it because this jig taught me all I needed to know about sharpening and now I do it freehand.
On the follow-up, be sure to show your home-made sanding dingus, and how you use it for honing. I copied it and find it more useful while turning.
I think it deserves it’s own build video.
I have one of these and never used it...thanks! I'll try it out now. What about bowl gouges? do you freehand those?
Hey Jim. Actually, I now freehand all of my tools, and this jig really doesn’t work with bowl gouges at all. It’s ideally suited for the five piece beginners set, and after using it a while, I think most people graduate to sharpening freehand.
Dude, I didn’t think the video was shaking. I thought we were having an earthquake.
you must live in California?...jim
Great video Scott, I use mine on the backside and rather than mounting it to the extension table, I mounted it on a piece of 1/4' plywood and clamp that to the extension table. I struggle to keep the roughing gouge in position when sharpening and consequently I've moved the point off center and can't seem to get it back no matter what I do. What do you think I'm doing wrong?
That’s very similar to my approach. It can be tough to sharpen roughing gouges. I start in the center and rotate left, then back to the center and rotate right. If you try to go from one side to the other it’s easy to get it out of balance.
Great video (AGAIN). Quick question: Where do you find 320 grit, 12" sanding discs. ShopSmith appears to only go to 120 grit.
I buy them on Amazon and at a semi-local woodworking store.
My question (one of many) is how do you change the sandpaper on the disc? I inherited a Shopsmith and the lathe tools (I did have to find the sharpening jig on Ebay) many years ago and the sanding disc is quite worn...
5:59 ... and it's important to have your pipe in it's proper guide groove!! 😉
I’ve done a video on that very topic. Might be the follow-up to this one.
When using the jig attached to the extension table, couldn't you just lower the table to get a fresh area of the sandpaper?
You would think so, but not without modifying the jig. I’ll have to show that as well in the follow up video.
Hey Scott, OMG…..today I bought shopsmith, a 500. The machine was purchased new way back, I don’t know the year. Every possible attachment, there are items that I have know idea what they are or what they do. I’m not kidding about every possible add on attachment. Imagine starting a 1965 corvette that has less than 100 miles on it, that’s what the motor sounds like. No rust anywhere. Sad story about the original owner, he got sick, entered a nursing facility and his house sat unused for years. The shopsmith was in his work shop.
How do I date the shopsmith? How do I identify the parts and odd attachments?
Wow, good for you! Depending on how old it is, there is either a serial number on the left-hand side of the head stock on a chrome ring that surrounds the lower driveshaft. The newer units have a white sticker, usually found near that lower shaft, that have either a serial number or a manufacture date. You can search for these on the Shopsmith website..
When I got my shopsmith from my dad all the tools were in "used" condition. I need to find (or make) one of these jigs. As I know Shopsmith often produced plans for useful jigs I was wondering if you knew of anyone that recreated this (in either wood, or a 3d model I could print).
Something similar was featured in early printings of Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone.
@@MyGrowthRings I will have to go look for it, thanks!
I have my 12" sanding disc set up with hook and loop system and wondered if this alternative would work. I've got a smaller lathe faceplate (not sure if it is 4 - 5") and wondered if I got the right sandpaper if I could mount it instead and grind? I suppose one danger might be the worry about a tool catching on one of the mounting holes on the faceplate.
I’ve actually done exactly this approach. One tip would be to use the best plywood you can find, apply a plastic laminate like Formica to the back before mounting the faceplate. Don’t just screw the faceplate but also use double sided tape so it can’t shift. True the edge round and the face flat and then apply plastic laminate lto the face. That will produce an excellent sanding disc.
If a person could only have an extendable coupler and not have to move the headstock to the belt sander. Also, I assume I’m forgetting the jig can be used for bench chisels as well?
Yes, if you had an extendable couple you could connect it while turning. And also yes, you can sharpen bench chisels as well as shaper cutters with it.
Hi Scott, great video! How do you determine the correct position or stick out of the round-nose scraper in the jig? Since it pivots around the bolt on the jig, it seems you'd get a different radius on the tip depending on how far that tip is from the pivot. Thanks!
Ben, you are absolutely right. I actually discussed that in a portion of the video that was unusable, but will address that fact in the follow-up video. Thanks for the reminder. Scott
Looking forward to it, thanks!
Is there any way to use this jig to sharpen bench chisels? I did not see that in your video.
There is, and I’ll show it in the follow-up video.
I used the sharpening guide early on. It always seemed complex. Like, when do you change it from zero and how far? As a started buying more expensive turning tools I just abandoned it for a dedicated grinder. It really was user error. I could never get the skew symmetrical, and the gouge would have an irregular bevel across. You made it seem so rudimentary
I've had some practice. Again, this jig is fine for the basic set of five, but once you get going in turning you really should graduate to freehand sharpening, but having used the jig I believe you build some valuable experience and muscle memory. Scott
Question. First great video ove the inclusion of the mistakes.
All of the expensive grinders and sharpening systems grind in line with the tool (the wheels spin from the point tward the handle.) Is there a difference in grinding across the tool 90 degrees to the tool. If there is could you raise the table and mive the jig forward to where the tool contacts the disk inline to the tool?
Hope im being clear?
Yes you are being perfectly clear. You can play around with the angle of attack within some limits by doing just what you propose.
But does it make a difference or is it one of those we've always used a grinder so thats how we do it. Lol
@@samspade2519 It really doesn’t make a difference.
Thanks scott
What about a bowl gouge? How do you sharpen those?
This jig won’t sharpen them but SS has another jig that works on the strip sander. I just freehand them myself.
Hey Scott. Amazon says out of stock on sharpening guide. Any other places to get?
Check www.shopsmith.com
Scott, I noticed that you kept the settings for all grinds at zero degrees. When I watched the Doug Reid videos, he advocated for the gouges at 10 degrees L, Skew 13 degrees L, and the parting tool 8 degrees L. I did that but don't know what impact that has on my cuts, as I'm somewhat new to turning on the SS. Can you comment or explain why he did that?
I addressed that very question in the follow up video. When I’m not using the sharpening jig, I also use a more aggressive grind, but the purpose of my video was to demonstrate the use of the jig. I haven’t used the jig in 20 years, but it did help me get started in learning how to approach the abrasive properly.
What is The angle set on the curved gouges?
The angle on the jig is 0. I’m not sure what the angle that is produced at that setting.
Will this work well for a bowl gouge?
Not at all. It was designed exclusively to sharpen the basic, five piece, spindle, turning set, and the round nose gouge from Shopsmith. Not useful for bowl gouges.
Hey Scott, is there an explanation why Doug Reid sets the tool holder at different angles in his sharpening video and you always have yours set at zero?
Yes. In this demo I was returning the tools to the factory angle. In “real life” I use a much lot aggressive angle, but I mostly use high speed steel tools today.
Thanks Scott, makes sense why I struggled a little with new Shopsmith tools. When I thought I was sharpening the new tools, I was actually regrinding the bevels using the Doug Reid’s angles.
@@steveparmelee4871 That’s exactly right. It takes quite a bit of work to get those edges re-shaped.
A second thought…
I had stayed away from this jig, because somewhere I heard you needed the tapered sanding disk. Apparently this isn’t true? Will the sharpening jig work as well on a model 10?
This jig was not intended to be used with the tapered desk, and yes, you absolutely could use this on a 10ER.
You need the conical sander to use with the jointer/planar blade sharpening jig. And it works very well! jim
I noticed that the speed was low,on belt sander. Is it the same for the disk sander?
Yes, for sharpening that's all that's needed.
@@MyGrowthRings Hey Scott, roughly how slow? About 450-500 rpm?
@@markb8954 The idea of slow is to reduce heat and reduce the amount of metal removed.
Does this work with tools of other manufactures?
There’s no guarantee, but Buck Bros made turning tools for Craftsman and several hardware store chains. Likewise, many of the Taiwanese importers copied the Buck Bros geometry, and a I’ve found that the lowest grade tools from Harbor Freight are a perfect match, so the jig works on those too.
Thank you
@@WilsonPhotography1 You are welcome.
Where can I find that specific jig?
@Shopsmith still makes it, or you can look for one on eBay. The SS site is still under construction, but this is the current link: shopsmith.com/product/sharpening-guide/
Hey, Scott.... I read or thought I read or dreamed that one can grind the chisels to a point of reaching unhardened metal. Any truth to that concept?
As long as you don’t overheat the carbon steel tools you can grind them to a nub and they’ll still hold an edge. I would assume the same is true for high speed steel tools.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks!
@@edlivesay3743 You are welcome.
This machine is in current production?!?
Yep. Well, a newer version with electronic variable speed is.
I don’t think that I have 320 Grit. I think I have 150 and 220.
220 will make quick work of reshaping the tool and will leave a better edge than a dull tool. It's a good place to start.
Scott,
First of all, your lathe tools look terrible! Need some elbow grease to remove the rust!
I turn a lot and decided to get a slow speed grinder so I do not have to mess with reset every time I need to sharpen. I started with a jig, but have learned to free hand most tools, so it just takes a few seconds to touch up the tool. Grinders are not too expensive unless you move to CBN wheels.
They sure do! These are no longer in service and have long been replace by HSS. I agree that the best thing I learned from using this tool was the proper approach and the muscle memory. I now freehand sharpen all my tools. I used to own a Tormek and have been considering a knock-off, and CBN wheels sure beat the need to keep the wheel wet. Do you use water with yours or run it dry? What grit do you use? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Dry CBN wheels on Rikon grinder. I think they are 180 and 600. 600 is really a bit too fine, but I do use it carefully and it does not leave a bunch of steel on the floor! Not sure how you would use water on vertically spinning stone wheels. I use HSS too but I do like the Shopsmith roughing gouge. Woodturners Wonders supplied the wheels and they have lots of great products for turners.
totally wank way of sharpening lathe tools (from a 20 year turner) Sometimes it feels like you're working overly-hard to make your Shopsmith a 'genius ' machine,
What you’re missing is the “rest of the story“ that I will talk about in the follow up.
How is it "overly hard"?
This channel is a wealth of information and has been exceptionally informative. I recently ordered a new Mark 7 (has not arrived yet) and included a basic set of SS wood chisels in the order. The chisels I ordered are the 8 pc Benjamen's Best 556463. I just tried to order the guide you are demonstrating and in the process may have discovered that this guide will not work with the new basic SS wood chisels I ordered. I am absolutely new to wood turning and have no idea if this guide will work for me. Can someone point me in the right direction........should i return the chisels when they arrive or will this guide work for me?
I own the Benjamin’s Best set and it is good. You are correct, the SS guide will not work with most if not all of them, so I would return it. Scott