If you want to turn chain adjustment into an all-day project, follow this video. I'd never done it before and now wish I'd never seen this. He's using the chain alignment tool backwards. Every other video has the tightening screw being adjusted from the outside of the bike as opposed to having to reach through the wheel. That makes all the difference. The way this fellow is doing it, it's nigh impossible to get the alignment tool properly seated on the sprocket--you think your chain/sprocket is out of alignment when it really is not, and so, as per this guy's suggestion, you kick the wheel (which I now believe is a bad idea) only to find out that it's even more out of whack. You end up having to start from scratch, as if you'd removed the wheel. All those careful equal turns on the adjustment bolts, equally on either side, are for naught. If you've never done this, check out Revzilla's video, among othes, before you start. You'll save yourself a ton of time and frustration.
Buy yourself a 24mm socket and breaker bar to undo the rear axle nut and a torque wench set to 88NM to tighten it back up. Plus you measure the slack (40mm) between the middle of the two sprockets, you are far too close to the rear and it looks too tight.
The bike is up on its center stand. The swing arm should be supported by a Paddock Stand OR as the workshop manual says on its side stand
If you want to turn chain adjustment into an all-day project, follow this video. I'd never done it before and now wish I'd never seen this. He's using the chain alignment tool backwards. Every other video has the tightening screw being adjusted from the outside of the bike as opposed to having to reach through the wheel. That makes all the difference. The way this fellow is doing it, it's nigh impossible to get the alignment tool properly seated on the sprocket--you think your chain/sprocket is out of alignment when it really is not, and so, as per this guy's suggestion, you kick the wheel (which I now believe is a bad idea) only to find out that it's even more out of whack. You end up having to start from scratch, as if you'd removed the wheel. All those careful equal turns on the adjustment bolts, equally on either side, are for naught. If you've never done this, check out Revzilla's video, among othes, before you start. You'll save yourself a ton of time and frustration.
Buy yourself a 24mm socket and breaker bar to undo the rear axle nut and a torque wench set to 88NM to tighten it back up. Plus you measure the slack (40mm) between the middle of the two sprockets, you are far too close to the rear and it looks too tight.
I agree, those poor bearings 🥴
Hi ,if you push the bar the other way ,the screw will be on the other side ,so much easier ,great video ,thank you :)
Merci beaucoup l'Ami !
Chain adjustment should be done with bike using sidestand not centre stand
Very helpful video, thank you.
Thz yaa...new knowledge...
That lock nut what size boss?
12 mm & 14 mm boss
Thanks mate..
Wasted. No money to buy torque wrench