I'm a 45 + year combination collision repair, metal and refinish, professional. I started out with lacquer primer and paint on late 60s and 70s vehicles. Your system is awesome, your products are top notch, your tools are state of the art. I'm envious of your paint booth, your dust collection system, and the size of your shop. Your results speak for themselves. I've seen refinish work with those tiny bubbles in 3 to 6 months after being stripped and refinished. Tiny rust bubbles lifting all that expensive material off the metal. Congratulations on your success. Watching you use and teach those tricks I've learned through years in the shop is so cool.
im in the same boat as you 35 years experience i have fixed hundreds of cars for dealers you know how that works anyways i have had bubbles come up the next day after painting more times than i can remember which i didnt care because it was wholesale work the only way to fix bubbles is to cut it out and butt weld or replace it
We used to use Ppg epoxy primer for sealer on metal, as a sealer on top of filler before primer and as a sealer before base coat . That was before the newer lead free version. The old school Ppg epoxy was incredible stuff. Years later I ended up working for Ppg making paint products
The original green gray DP40 with lead and chrome was unreal. It's been decades since I've used it but it was super tough and didn't build as much as the new epoxy technology. That's not necessarily a good or bad thing, but the old DP on chassis parts and frames was perfect. The epoxies from Tamco, Revolt, and Southern Polyurethanes is orders of magnatude better than the modern, denuded garbage. Then again, you can pretty much say that about most ppg products now.
saw you using slick sand,then i knew it would turn out gravy,restored cars for 50 years,if i had ,had that stuff decades ago i'd of got a lot more done that i did,a lot of sanding for nothing,this product save hours and countless hours,i like the way you are using the modern chemicals and hardners for lasting finishes,great work
finally someone on UA-cam doing it right... epoxy should always be used on bare metal... and should always be spotted in after braking threw... slick sand.. feather fill... which ever one you use is a good primmer for filling ... but can not be wet sanded as it can trap water... im not sure if you have used the PPG viberance collection primer... VP2050.. it is a DTM primer... was told epoxy..based but unsure... finish body work to 150 to 180... which should be done anyway to help with products shrinking and showing sand scratches... finalize body work 180... apply this product.. start blocking 180... go to 400... spray sealer .. then base... saves the step of the polyester primer.. then the 2k... its an amazing product you should try this product ... again it is great to see someone doing the correct steps ...
@@kandyman5315 no problem i appreciate you showing people the correct way to do things... there are so many people on here showing people how to do things wrong...
Yeah its interesting. I have done it both ways and no come backs. I was using DTM urethane that when reduced is a sealer. Then mud work followed by the same DTM not reduced for a high build. If finished in 400 I can avoid a sealer before base. The shop Im at now is Epoxy, mud, high build poly then sand to 400 and they then seal and base. The epoxy is really a tough product and I don't see corrosion getting under it. The MIL build with featherfill is impressive with just two wet coats.
Excellent content as always. Add tip sizes also please for us true amateurs and pressure. Even if you add thinner let us know. I recently shot my very first 2 k primer. It went on like sand. I was so freaked I sanded it then shot 2 more coats. This time I shot it at 40 and it laid smooth. The gauge on the gun was from a friend and it’s from the 90’s. Could be bad. I shot down some more over the sand throughs and reduced it and it laid fine at 28. My lid turned out about 70 percent, looks good from 10’. I’m doing the hood and fenders next and I want those to look perfect. Maybe I will drive it up to you. Your 4 hours north or the at paint society. I think he’s around here. I’m in west palm.
Awesome work👍There is always this ongoing debate of epoxy vs Etch or whether filler should go on top of epoxy or bare metal.For restorations I’ve always used epoxy first ,collision work where time is money we use etch and primer I guess it’s a personal preference
Excellent! I been doing wrong, I apply Epoxi Cre-321 and apply over the plastic filler 30 minutes I apply the paint and clear. So far I didn’t have any job back. But thank you for sharing you knowledge.
Thanks for sharing this Kandy Man you have a really nice system where you can use the epoxy as a wet-on-wet over the cut throughs then go straight in with the polyester primer, it must make the process easier, oh and well done on hitting the 5K subs👏🙏👍John UK
I watched your video, and it seems as though you are on the right track and do quality work. The one ting that struct me more than anything is the wet on wet with Slick Sand over epoxy primer. That is Not a recommended procedure. They are two very different types of products, and the epoxy and the MEKP activator in the Slick Sand can actually fight each other. They will dry and cure at very different rates. BTW: if you love the Optex fillers, and putty, you should really try the Optex Super Build polyester. Outstanding product, and not antiquated like Slick Sand.
Question on next step, so you put the slick sand on, after this do you block it to like 320 then put the epoxy sealer on it and then straight to base coat?
Slick sand then block with 180 or 220, then 2k urethane prime, then finished in 400 to 600 then ready for paint haven't showed 2k step on this job yet👍
Kandyman have you tried HIGHTECK primer that is DTM,SEALER and High build all in one? If so what is your take on it as a foundation? Asking from a backyard painter.
I have used DTM urethane high build that can be reduced for a sealer for years. It works fine and can be wet sanded. I don't think it will resist corrosion as well as epoxy. But it will simplify things to a single product as you can base over it if it in 400 or finer finish. I have since switched to a epoxy, mud, poly high build, seal base coat process.
i watched you video again and i noticed you said that you can put slick sand rigth away after the epoxy coat is flashed so you dont have to sand i just want to make sure so does that mean i can spray epoxy and slick sand same day all together does this work at home ? i am doing a 1972 corvette
If you epoxy the whole car and then go past your seven day window do you have to re-epoxy before putting body filler on it? Or do you just hit it with 80 grit? Would you mind sharing the epoxy brand?
hey hope your days is going great, i have a question I used omni mp182 urathane primer its it ok if i lay my base coat before 24houra lets say like 4 hours before waiting a whole day. y did two heavy coats
and can i use some Spray primer on a small area that needs some glaze so i dont have to wait another 24 hours to prime again i think you said sealer wont cover glaze because its porus and will absorb it
how come you don't epoxy over the bondo i use spi epoxy and they highly recommend epoxy over the bodywork because it creates a solvent and moisture resistant layer over the bondo i have done this with awesome results i have a custom job i did plus many others that i keep my eye on for the past 5 years and they hold up plus minimal shrinkage it's amazing what's your take on this thanks and nice video ps 35 years experience
Fantastic work I wouldn’t do it any differently, I love jobs done with spray polyester Excellent work 👍👍👍 I’ve just started my channel it’s new but I’ve put a video up using a transparent spray filler for carbon fibre on a forged carbon fibre roof on a GR Yaris, if you have time to take a look 👍
So expoxy within 7 day grace, you dont have to sand expoxy before filler work? Then when all bodywork done throw it in slick sand polyester primer then sand with around 180-220 then some high build 2k primer sand finish with around 500 grite and then ready to go ? Also after the slick sand do you recommend letting it sit for few weeks for all shrinking to he done ? Thanks in advance for replying i normal dont do restoration work
method, could you try on door like the one just shown ,when applying filler , skim your lows and just beyond and with the rest applying opposite , you'll find applying and rubbing only once , then just pin holes , then prime interested to know how you go 🤔
@@kandyman5315 I can try to describe it to you the paint job to look absolutely awesome in all aspects except for when you look down the entire side of the car if you squat down from a distance look down the side it has this weird chunky wavy texture to it the whole thing and no I'm not talking about bad body work
Yes that is caused by to much material on the vehicle I mentioned that in my last video on the cutlass at work . That also why I did not flow coat my cutlass. To much produc on job looks worse
@@kandyman5315 I think he wants you to e mail your logo over to him as he wants to airbrush it on aluminium in candy fire him an e mail over bro his e mail address will be on one of his vids at the end 👍👍hope you two can pull this off as you both are my go to u tube viewing 😉😉
Sorry im a noob. My question is why did you put glaze on bare metal. I thought you said you wanted a layer of epoxy between the bodyfiller and bare metal?? I dont know i was just asking if i missed something. I did learn something applying epoxy then filler then level it out and then re epoxy again to cover any bare metal then hit it with 2k high build. ❤
@@kandyman5315 is there any chance for sanding marks or the slick sand hold them up. If you put epoxy than bodyfiller and then 2k primer on top how would you scrach the epoxy before bodyfiller 180 maybe i'm scared becayse 80grid is agresive to put boddyfiller on top if it's not on bare metal. Many thanks for sharing your knowlage with us . Keep doing your great job, your's videos are one of the best out there.
I use a 1.8 but have used a 3.0 for slick sand. I rarely get more than two coat down as it starts to gel if its hot and I wait 15 minutes between coats. It builds great and you have lots of material to get a very straight panel and bury scratches.
Epoxy is non sandable. It’s pretty much a sealer. Especially in painted surfaces, it eliminated blistering and bleed through. Body filler goes on metal, it’s literally designed to be applied on metal.
I notice there was still some filler applied over bare metal in some spots. It seems almost impossible to do filler work on a whole car without eventually having some filler over bare metal. If the epoxy goes over everything again, before polyester primer, that is the same thing in my opinion, because the epoxy will seal everything underneath, so it doesn't matter if you have some filler over bare metal. It is very hard to find a definitive answer to the question of filler over bare steel. It is a matter of preference, as long as epoxy is used at some point before the polyester and urethane primers. It seems highly unlikely that moisture could be trapped or buried in the filler, unless it was applied in a very humid environment and the epoxy was applied to soon after the filler work.
6:28 Taking time to teach others say's alot about Kandy Mans character, your the best Kandy Man.
Thanks for the support
I'm a 45 + year combination collision repair, metal and refinish, professional. I started out with lacquer primer and paint on late 60s and 70s vehicles. Your system is awesome, your products are top notch, your tools are state of the art. I'm envious of your paint booth, your dust collection system, and the size of your shop. Your results speak for themselves. I've seen refinish work with those tiny bubbles in 3 to 6 months after being stripped and refinished. Tiny rust bubbles lifting all that expensive material off the metal. Congratulations on your success. Watching you use and teach those tricks I've learned through years in the shop is so cool.
@michaelphelps5064 thank you
im in the same boat as you 35 years experience i have fixed hundreds of cars for dealers you know how that works anyways i have had bubbles come up the next day after painting more times than i can remember which i didnt care because it was wholesale work the only way to fix bubbles is to cut it out and butt weld or replace it
Thank you for filming how you repair restore , More than helpful defiantly inspiring .
👊
We used to use Ppg epoxy primer for sealer on metal, as a sealer on top of filler before primer and as a sealer before base coat . That was before the newer lead free version. The old school Ppg epoxy was incredible stuff. Years later I ended up working for Ppg making paint products
I've been in the business now many years and ppg has always been one of my favorite
The original green gray DP40 with lead and chrome was unreal. It's been decades since I've used it but it was super tough and didn't build as much as the new epoxy technology. That's not necessarily a good or bad thing, but the old DP on chassis parts and frames was perfect. The epoxies from Tamco, Revolt, and Southern Polyurethanes is orders of magnatude better than the modern, denuded garbage. Then again, you can pretty much say that about most ppg products now.
@@bigblocklawyer DP 40. I have some in my cabinet. I don't know how old it is, but it's old
@michaelphelps5064 lol
saw you using slick sand,then i knew it would turn out gravy,restored cars for 50 years,if i had ,had that stuff decades ago i'd of got a lot more done that i did,a lot of sanding for nothing,this product save hours and countless hours,i like the way you are using the modern chemicals and hardners for lasting finishes,great work
👍👍
Appreciate you taking time at work to make good videos, probably adds a lot to your day
finally someone on UA-cam doing it right... epoxy should always be used on bare metal... and should always be spotted in after braking threw... slick sand.. feather fill... which ever one you use is a good primmer for filling ... but can not be wet sanded as it can trap water... im not sure if you have used the PPG viberance collection primer... VP2050.. it is a DTM primer... was told epoxy..based but unsure... finish body work to 150 to 180... which should be done anyway to help with products shrinking and showing sand scratches... finalize body work 180... apply this product.. start blocking 180... go to 400... spray sealer .. then base... saves the step of the polyester primer.. then the 2k... its an amazing product you should try this product ... again it is great to see someone doing the correct steps ...
Appreciate the support 👊
@@kandyman5315 no problem i appreciate you showing people the correct way to do things... there are so many people on here showing people how to do things wrong...
Yeah its interesting. I have done it both ways and no come backs. I was using DTM urethane that when reduced is a sealer. Then mud work followed by the same DTM not reduced for a high build. If finished in 400 I can avoid a sealer before base. The shop Im at now is Epoxy, mud, high build poly then sand to 400 and they then seal and base. The epoxy is really a tough product and I don't see corrosion getting under it. The MIL build with featherfill is impressive with just two wet coats.
That's attention to detail at its finest, ,very time consuming, don't know how you put a price on such a job!!! Thumbs up
Thank you
Excellent content as always. Add tip sizes also please for us true amateurs and pressure. Even if you add thinner let us know. I recently shot my very first 2 k primer. It went on like sand. I was so freaked I sanded it then shot 2 more coats. This time I shot it at 40 and it laid smooth. The gauge on the gun was from a friend and it’s from the 90’s. Could be bad. I shot down some more over the sand throughs and reduced it and it laid fine at 28. My lid turned out about 70 percent, looks good from 10’. I’m doing the hood and fenders next and I want those to look perfect. Maybe I will drive it up to you. Your 4 hours north or the at paint society. I think he’s around here. I’m in west palm.
Awesome work👍There is always this ongoing debate of epoxy vs Etch or whether filler should go on top of epoxy or bare metal.For restorations I’ve always used epoxy first ,collision work where time is money we use etch and primer I guess it’s a personal preference
Filler is made for bare metal epoxy is great to seal a car project that you won t work on for a while ,, it is not a primer
Kandy knows his business. Substance always.
Excellent! I been doing wrong, I apply Epoxi Cre-321 and apply over the plastic filler 30 minutes I apply the paint and clear. So far I didn’t have any job back. But thank you for sharing you knowledge.
Glad I could help
Filler on bare metal why would you apply a epoxy on it then apply filler to sand it all off
KANDY MAN THE BEST I"VE EVERY SEEN!!! WONDER JOB!!
Appreciate the support 👊👊
I got a lot out of it!!! Thank you 🙏
NOWWWWWW💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽THATS HOW ITS DONE 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽incredible preparation Kandyman an thank u for shearing all ur knowledge God Bless💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Appreciate the support
Thank you for posting this. It's extremely valuable to me. I'm a novice. Learning lots from your work. Thank you again!
Glad to hear💯
Kandy man you are definitely the best painter on you tube without a doubt
That quarter on the bmw was really bad! Was it fixed or replaced ?
Fixed
@@kandyman5315 top
Notch work
We've got some great bodymen
Excellent video pretty much the same as do my older cars love your work
I use the same procedure too get my panels pin straight, it takes a lot off hours but worth it in the end . 👍jim uk
Another excellent video!!! - much appreciated
Brother you channle is amazing and you guys do EVERYTHING by the book. Hats off to you
Thanks for the support 👍
I‘m so happy to find your Channel 😊 you did a Great Job 👍 Greetings from Germany 🙋🏻♂️
Appreciate it
Thanks for sharing this Kandy Man you have a really nice system where you can use the epoxy as a wet-on-wet over the cut throughs then go straight in with the polyester primer, it must make the process easier, oh and well done on hitting the 5K subs👏🙏👍John UK
Most all of the epoxy I've seen is wet on wet.. you dont have to use evercoat, but it is good stuff. I rattle can spray max 2k
I watched your video, and it seems as though you are on the right track and do quality work. The one ting that struct me more than anything is the wet on wet with Slick Sand over epoxy primer. That is Not a recommended procedure. They are two very different types of products, and the epoxy and the MEKP activator in the Slick Sand can actually fight each other. They will dry and cure at very different rates. BTW: if you love the Optex fillers, and putty, you should really try the Optex Super Build polyester. Outstanding product, and not antiquated like Slick Sand.
👌
Great details here! Thank you again 😁
Very nice job as usual !! Great content
Congrats on 5K followers!! Well deserved!
Thank you
What an amazing facility
U r the best kandy man número uno
Painting a Willys jeep. First car spray job. What size tip do you use for the epoxy primer and Slick sand?
1.8 or 2.0
Thanks for those videos, what grit do you use over epoxy to accept the filler?
180 grit👊
@@kandyman5315 perfect! Thank you so much
I need more video of the cutlass!!!.
Bmw looks clean, no dirt, even texture.
Question on next step, so you put the slick sand on, after this do you block it to like 320 then put the epoxy sealer on it and then straight to base coat?
Slick sand then block with 180 or 220, then 2k urethane prime, then finished in 400 to 600 then ready for paint haven't showed 2k step on this job yet👍
@@kandyman5315 looking forward to seeing those next steps man, going to try this method on painting my truck
Kandyman have you tried HIGHTECK primer that is DTM,SEALER and High build all in one? If so what is your take on it as a foundation? Asking from a backyard painter.
Haven't tried it. Sorry, sounds good
@@kandyman5315 thank you sir!
its all the same shit. there are only a few chemical companies that mix the stuff. you want cheap and good results. speedokote.
I have used DTM urethane high build that can be reduced for a sealer for years. It works fine and can be wet sanded. I don't think it will resist corrosion as well as epoxy. But it will simplify things to a single product as you can base over it if it in 400 or finer finish. I have since switched to a epoxy, mud, poly high build, seal base coat process.
i watched you video again and i noticed you said that you can put slick sand rigth away after the epoxy coat is flashed so you dont have to sand i just want to make sure
so does that mean i can spray epoxy and slick sand same day all together does this work at home ? i am doing a 1972 corvette
@@yohalmobarrera1849 yes
If you epoxy the whole car and then go past your seven day window do you have to re-epoxy before putting body filler on it? Or do you just hit it with 80 grit? Would you mind sharing the epoxy brand?
Yes sanding is then necessary
hey hope your days is going great, i have a question I used omni mp182 urathane primer its it ok if i lay my base coat before 24houra lets say like 4 hours before waiting a whole day. y did two heavy coats
and can i use some Spray primer on a small area that needs some glaze so i dont have to wait another 24 hours to prime again i think you said sealer wont cover glaze because its porus and will absorb it
Yes be careful of lifting from the 1k can
@@kandyman5315 thank you for always taking the time to reply, i ll just reprime it again its a 2022 tahoe so i am not taking my chances then 😁
@@yohalmobarrera1849 good choice
how come you don't epoxy over the bondo i use spi epoxy and they highly recommend epoxy over the bodywork because it creates a solvent and moisture resistant layer over the bondo i have done this with awesome results i have a custom job i did plus many others that i keep my eye on for the past 5 years and they hold up plus minimal shrinkage it's amazing what's your take on this thanks and nice video ps 35 years experience
I like epoxy on metal .and polyester, and 2k on filler .if your method is successful. Keep on keeping on 💪🙌🙌
First time in candy land. Man he sprays with the nozzle right on the panel
So to be clear, If I just shoot the epoxy, after it dries, you'd recommend scratching it up a bit before laying down a filler?
Yes
Fantastic work I wouldn’t do it any differently, I love jobs done with spray polyester
Excellent work 👍👍👍
I’ve just started my channel it’s new but I’ve put a video up using a transparent spray filler for carbon fibre on a forged carbon fibre roof on a GR Yaris, if you have time to take a look
👍
So expoxy within 7 day grace, you dont have to sand expoxy before filler work? Then when all bodywork done throw it in slick sand polyester primer then sand with around 180-220 then some high build 2k primer sand finish with around 500 grite and then ready to go ? Also after the slick sand do you recommend letting it sit for few weeks for all shrinking to he done ? Thanks in advance for replying i normal dont do restoration work
Also follow up questions seems like all the expoxy primer I used gums up sandpaper to scuff it up for primer
Yes that with ppg dp
Kandy man I always thought that epoxy can't be sanded,or it sands like a gummy bear,also is there a waiting time before spraying the ppg epoxy.
Yes it can be sanded . And this product has no induction period
Hope this helps
Thank you
Do you sand the epoxy before laying the glaze/bondo on it?
Yes 180 grit
method, could you try on door like the one just shown ,when applying filler , skim your lows and just beyond and with the rest applying opposite , you'll find applying and rubbing only once , then just pin holes , then prime
interested to know how you go 🤔
Nice prep! I thought the DP had an induction time before shooting it? (Like 2 hrs in the cup minimum?)
Some do not this product
Mr. Kandy man , can I use alcohol if don't have anay automotive paint degreaser for it.?
Isopropyl alcohol
What size tip are you using to spray the slicksand?
1.8
What guns did you use for the epoxy and the Slick Sand? They looked like they hadn't been cleaned in decades.
Lol
subbed, nice content!
Can you do a video on urethane wave phenomenon if you know about it I've only ran across at maybe five times in 20-plus years
You mean to much clear
@@kandyman5315 I can try to describe it to you the paint job to look absolutely awesome in all aspects except for when you look down the entire side of the car if you squat down from a distance look down the side it has this weird chunky wavy texture to it the whole thing and no I'm not talking about bad body work
Yes that is caused by to much material on the vehicle I mentioned that in my last video on the cutlass at work . That also why I did not flow coat my cutlass. To much produc on job looks worse
So, did you block the car after the first coat of epoxy to know where body filler needed to be applied?
The epoxy has a low gloss so you can see them
@kandyman5315 so basically your fixing the visible ones then reapplying epoxy then spraying the slicksand and blocking out?
Yes
At 4:50 you say you’re using an “alcohol cleaner”, what is this product exactly, and why do you use this instead of prepsol?
Thanks!
Cleaner solvent fast evaporation
Meticulous prep k man love it 😊😊😊😊😊
Dont know if you've seen the comments on your last vid from dred he's trying to get in touch with you
Didn't see it
@@kandyman5315 I think he wants you to e mail your logo over to him as he wants to airbrush it on aluminium in candy fire him an e mail over bro his e mail address will be on one of his vids at the end 👍👍hope you two can pull this off as you both are my go to u tube viewing 😉😉
It was on the vid you colabed with paint society
Don't see it I would love that
now thats a paint booth
Sorry im a noob. My question is why did you put glaze on bare metal. I thought you said you wanted a layer of epoxy between the bodyfiller and bare metal?? I dont know i was just asking if i missed something. I did learn something applying epoxy then filler then level it out and then re epoxy again to cover any bare metal then hit it with 2k high build. ❤
It's very hard not to have any bare metal through the process. That is ok as long as it is not left open and treated as in the video
what grid yall use on the epoxy primer before filler?
80 180
NICE JOB❤,ALSO WHAT MODEL THAT 3M VERSAFLO
What size tip do you use for the slick sand
The bigger the better
Ok thank you
@@kandyman5315 is there any chance for sanding marks or the slick sand hold them up. If you put epoxy than bodyfiller and then 2k primer on top how would you scrach the epoxy before bodyfiller 180 maybe i'm scared becayse 80grid is agresive to put boddyfiller on top if it's not on bare metal. Many thanks for sharing your knowlage with us . Keep doing your great job, your's videos are one of the best out there.
I use a 1.8 but have used a 3.0 for slick sand. I rarely get more than two coat down as it starts to gel if its hot and I wait 15 minutes between coats. It builds great and you have lots of material to get a very straight panel and bury scratches.
So you still went with bondo over bare metal on that door when you skimmed it?
It will be all sanded off and just stay in the lows then epoxy again
@@kandyman5315 Would it just be easier using DTM high build of a primer?
Hi what epoxy are you using
Ppg dp
What alcohol cleaner do you use?
Sx103
💯💯💯💯💯
Can I make a scientific question?was anything wrong in this video based on old school painting?
?
@@kandyman5315 not your answer please
What speed setting on Festool sander?
I like mine on the slowest settings
Dig it. 😎
In the first stage I I will use high solid zincs rich Epoxy primer last forever .
Different but interesting
👍
👍✌️
👊
Why didn't you use the Sherwin Williams epoxy primer on this car instead u used ppg.
I spray ppg products at this shop
You do nice work but I’d buy a new door before I put all the time and labor into all that body work, plus all the filler in the door
This was a thin coat you'd be hard pressed to find a clean door as this car had
A new door may be expensive and difficulty finding one… plus even a “new” door isn’t perfect enough for paint
If you are doing this kind of a paint job you would still need to coat a new door with bondo.
What yellow tape do you recommend?
Epoxy is non sandable. It’s pretty much a sealer. Especially in painted surfaces, it eliminated blistering and bleed through. Body filler goes on metal, it’s literally designed to be applied on metal.
👌
I’m not painting a cutless
🤫
I notice there was still some filler applied over bare metal in some spots. It seems almost impossible to do filler work on a whole car without eventually having some filler over bare metal. If the epoxy goes over everything again, before polyester primer, that is the same thing in my opinion, because the epoxy will seal everything underneath, so it doesn't matter if you have some filler over bare metal. It is very hard to find a definitive answer to the question of filler over bare steel. It is a matter of preference, as long as epoxy is used at some point before the polyester and urethane primers. It seems highly unlikely that moisture could be trapped or buried in the filler, unless it was applied in a very humid environment and the epoxy was applied to soon after the filler work.
I agree 💯