Been in the industry of restorations for almost 40 years now. Good technique. Everyone does it a little bit different, but the basic principles are the same. Stay blessed, God willing sir.
Now this guy. This guy right here. Is the man i want to be taught by. No mask, for a quick show sanding...im sure he wears one when it gets foggy in there. No messing about. Time saving. Best finish. No BS. Ridiculous metaphors. Random shouting. He's an absolute legend! The guy who taught me how to plaster was very similar. Never forgot the man. Owe him everything.
When that primer shrinks you’ll see those 80 grit scratches. I did auto body for 15 years. I been out of it for about 10 years. I used urethane primers that weren’t supposed to shrink but they did. No short cuts. I always sanded to 150-180 before priming
That's WHY you let it SIT and "gas out" 😏 unless "in and out/collision work". Then yeah, 150/180 is a near must before ANY kinda primer. But yeah, IT IS RESTORATION....USE 120/150/180 ta BLOCK YOUR 1ST (or 2nd stage) of PRIMER 💪. Heck, I did MOST my BLACK 55 CHEVY show car with 40 grit and urethane primer 1st stage 😏...BUT? I let that sh.t SIT......"SIT" 😎
Yep, another old schooler here. Clean in up with 180, get your 80 grits and pinholes there.Feather fill can fill little waves too. Never go past 180 after polyester which includes filler and glaze. First cut the feather fill with 180 and guide coat again if you step down, Wet it again with 2k every time you cut through. Keep going like that without cheating out any low spots and you'll have a straight car when it goes in the booth.
We love you, Chad. So please, put a mask on ! I've done that for years and just looking at you doing that, dust is coming out my computer screen. Jolene wants two things : a marvelous car AND a marvelous Chad. Both of them. And for a long time.
I don't mean to be a dickhead here but do you think he can talk with a mask on and video it and have you understand what he is saying . I am sure he uses one when not trying to talk to people on a video . I have a UA-cam channel to and I have tryed it it doesn't work
I learned more on this one video than years of watching and wasting time on sanding blocking and painting! Thank you sir! You are a gentleman and a true craftsman!
I find it hilarious that some guy on his couch is questioning how you do what you do...I have bean painting cars for 20 years now. When I watch you I see a guy who knows exactly what he is doing love your work brotha keep hammering!!!!
Sure wish I would of had someone like you to show me when I was in my twenties . It would have saved me a lot of money and time . Your a great teacher and someone for young people to look up to.
I am a fan of Bad Chad. I have watch all his episodes and can't wait till the next one comes out. His imagination has created some of the coolest cars I have ever seen. This video is very educational for those who are getting into bodywork. Thanks Bad Chad!
36 years doing body and paint . You may be faster than me skipping your sanding a fine step . But my job will look better 20 years down the road. I've always finished in 180 primed then sand 320. My scratches will never come through yours will.
I understand what you mean about the different grit paper being a wood floor sander. You can over sand and not even be cutting the wood. Very informative guys. Watched the whole build
I remember back in the day when all it was lead and lacquer primer and lacquer glaze . I will say now the materials are like working with cement to clay like in the old days and their are a lot of different types of materials that if you don’t know what the uses or apply it at the right stage can be a disaster in the overall system and longevity of the restoration
I agree the method is fast, and what you say about course paper is what cuts strait. But I'd go to from 80 to 120 before primer. Just to make sure sand 80 grit sand scratches dont shrink back over time. Love the content Chad great work.
YES sir, guys on the shrinkage stuff... THAT'S WHY it's SOOO IMPORTANT that you LET THE SH.T SIT....😏 (Give it time to GAS OUT ect.) But YES! IF you don't have AT LEAST A WEEK to let sit? 120 grit IS a GREAT step before high build anyways. 👍 And...? IF you DON'T have at LEAST a week or so to let the panel sit before blocking? Then they SHOULDN'T BE DOING "Auto Body RESTORATION" ANYWAYS! 😒 ALL that "hurry up crap" is just NUTHIN but "Laugh/Smile NOW but Cry LATER"......😎
@@jamescon55 that G2 feather fill is virtually liquid glaze. Like, you said, give it time to cure and all is fine. I only use it on the gnarliest of bodies, but I use it relatively often.
@@aamantium1 Evercoat "polyester primers" has stepped up their line of products in the last decade for sure. I still prefer the Evercoat Super Build 4-1 polyester line vs. ANY that "Featherfill" line. It's waaay more user friendly and you can mix-up small amounts for spot priming and waaay longer pot life time for actual SPRAYING.
Thanks for the video. You are awesome taking time to show your technique for fastest way to do body work. I am starting to restore my 1948 chevy five window pickup again. My dad and me built it together when I was in High School in 1995. I did it the harder way fine sanded with 220 and 320 before primer. I'm going to do it your way this time, save a lot of time and work.
Thanks for explaining the relationship between primer, filler and choice of sandpaper in a way that is easy to immediately understand ! I have done some body work on my projects and realize I always have done it wrong. Polishing instead of straightening and getting those waves you mentioned. Thanks Chad !
Really like he's talking as he doing the work explaining what he is doing and where mistakes can and will happen I am doing a 1958 chevy fleet side long bed hope full to get it done this summer its my first build complet tear down
Would be intresting to see that car few months after its been painted. I have been bodyman/painter for 22 years and seen many cars when people used wrong grit. I agree with Chad that 80 grit will make is straight, but ALWAYS take finer grit 220-240 or 320 BEFORE put primer on. None of excisting primer products on market will work to cover 80 or even 120 grit....It will look great first few days or weeks but it will shrink and show that eventually.
Not if heat treated.. you will see any prob before hand and he will obvioisly fix it.. I do get what your saying but look at the customs he has done already....pretty sure he would of corrected that at this point....but like Chad says always...it might not be the way you like it but it's how he likes it... that's why you do it your way and let him do his
Also these are custom builds not factory perfected...there a lil more loved due to work...if your right hey ...I'll give ya that ..just saying he knows by now what to do an what not I'm sure...hes got super clean builds for most anyone in this labe of fab work..not just body paint garage
Been using feather fill since since 1975. When it hit the market they advertised it to go over 40 grit no problem. Went from bare bondo to paint with a team and best paint in 3 days using feather fill
i've done this for many years and loved this work.... totally agree about 40-80 grid is able to make it straight, but i allways go with sanding blocks instead of a DA sander if it really has to be straight.... the big advantage of this car is that it had no flat surfaces maybe the doorpanel, but that's the only panel that is really flat, a curved surfase is very forgiving for minor imperfections priming after 80 grid works really well especially when you give it a good cure.. nice job
Chad I really appreciate the way you break down the steps and the reason why you do it how you do it. Also love your creative mind. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST AUTOMOTIVE UA-cam CHANNEL OUT THERE. CHAD, YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE GENIUS. JOLENE IS SO SMART TO BE DOCUMENTING YOUR LIFE AS YOU WILL BE KNOWN AS THE GREATEST OF ALL TIME. I CAN'T THANK YOU BOTH ENOUGH FOR THE DAILY INSPIRATION. YOU GUYS ARE THE REAL DEAL.
Love watching your videos. I'm getting ready to do my own body work for the first time and you make me feel comfortable that I won't completely mess this up.
I did a truck 14 years ago same way as him. Wet sand polish finish looked perfect. Once it got out in the sun a year or so the scratches started appearing think from different materials shrinking at different rates.
Wow. I painted my first car and went through all the sanding steps and spent a loooong time. Wish I had seen this video before as I would’ve loved to save some time and work.
Primer filler amen, was waiting for this episode and for you to school the naysayers, in 1977 we were using primer filler to go over filler in the UK body shop I worked in and it saved the day every time. They got better over the years obs but so pleased to see this episode :)
Hey Chad and Jolene......Big fan Seattle! Saw the repeat on Discover Channel of the Pinto build. I watched when it first aired and watched both episodes again!! Great stuff....
Yes the high build has got those scratches out. But over time the primer will sink revealing those scratches all over the car. Invest in some blocks too for the primer, keeps everything nice and straight and flat.
I use 80 on lightweight bog then 150 just to take the 80 scratches out then prime. 240 block primer and depending on the top coat da 400 2k 500 clear over base. Take your time on the 80 and just knock off the top with 150. If you know what I'm saying
Then your waves were always there. 220 is just to remove scratches, that's all. It takes like an hour to run over the car after using 80 with 180 and then again with 220 because all your doing or supposed to be doing with 180 and 220 is removing scratches, that's it. If your fighting waves, you need to sand the car off, get the filler and the 40 grit back out because you weren't done with those yet.
We called it over spraying not guide coatings. But we were a small hot rod shop. Sure miss it. Keep up the good work cant wait to see that beautiful thing done the right way and looks like your doing it. Much love from one car guy to another. Or one car brother to another. And i only knew how to use a DA not a block. Just what i was taught with. Just have to be careful to not let your fingers get hit by that weight on it lol only takes a few times of losing your finger nail to learn lol
Shops that I have worked at required me to finish the filler with 120-150g before the primer. So I would simply guide coat the filler and DA it till the guide coat is all gone. Painters couldn't believe how straight my bodywork was after finishing with a DA. You are absolutely correct about blocking filler w 150-220g. Paper clogs and won't sand evenly.
When I got my Gamora it was a parts car and everyone said it was going to be a money pit and was junk. I followed you and used G2 and my $375 Urechem kit driveway paint turned out great. Thank you!
I would also reccomend a mask, or if thaťs not an option you could use a Mirka Deros sander with Abranet sanding discs, then you are sanding almost dust free, check out Mirka Deros on you tube.😁👍
ALL materials shrink back... The new materials are amazing, but they also do this to a degree. The effect of this is only seen a few years down the road and shows as sanding scratches. What you are doing is production bodyshop techniques, which is fine, and certainly saves time. For what it's worth, I start with epoxy primer-sealer on the metal. Scuff with 220, followed by spray filler, similar product to what you are using. Wait a few days. Block-sand with 80 and or 120. Spot putty as needed. Apply a final coat of epoxy primer-sealer. Guide coat. Wait a few days. Dry- block with 220, 320. Guide-coat. Wet-sand with 400. Once the surface develops a shine, it can be checked with reflected light for any areas that are not true. Finish with 500 wet. The idea is to finish with an epoxy 'jacket' around the car that stops any who knows what from coming through. That DA on high-crown areas can be tricky to produce a true surface! Great on the low-crown or flat areas though.
Great explanation on the 40 80 paper grip man!!!! I have a 1971 VW Bus that I will subscribe and follow your advise once I start my Peral two tone paint job soon... Cheers man Thanks for the awesome video and WOW that car looks amazing I cannot wait to see the finish product...Cheers man stay safe...
Evercoat feather fill G2 is the best polyester primer out there. It's the only poly that can be wetsanded. The only poly that you can use an etch prime first, then wetsand without it holding in the moisture. Been using it for many many years.
With a hearty Yee Haw & screeching Waa Hoo in her rusty crusty truck, with her faithful Indian companion CROWBAR at her side - The Lone Stranger rattles and rumbles in a cloud of flying debris across Nova Scotia to get in place for the Chad & Jolene daily shindig.
Using a da will always leave waffles in the final paint. Hand block is the only way to finish. Also going to 120 not stopping at 80. Just the way I do it but you are still talented man.
I have seen primer Bridge 80 grit scratches they can shrink and come back after paint and buff with some 2K primers there's a lot of work in between priming,blocking, painting, cutting and buffing to detail the car and set it in the sun find out you're sand scratches came back in your body filler
You are right, I've seen panels primed with 2k primer and after a period of time you can see the sanding marks. I think the thinners in the paint and lacquer soften the primer and allow you to see the sanding marks.
Mirca makes great dustless electric directional action sanders. Less dust in the shop to clean up and less dust in the lungs. I got one for my shop. Its a great investment. If you know what I saying
Polyester filler will crack over time especially in sun light I’ve been building cars for 40 years I started with ppg red oxide then used kondar high build when it became available Now I use nexerra urethane high build I epoxy prime over bondo first 80 grit paper will make something feel strait when it’s not If you’re going to do a perfection job that will pass a fluorescent light test I use white cotton gloves I do agree with guid coat but I finish with 150 or 120 grit it’s just corse enough to get it straight You can’t get something strait with fine paper but once it’s strait polish it with 320 lightly if it’s strait you’ll know it Bondo is very hard to get perfect I work my metal first I use glaze coat instead of polyester filler upole icing is best If I have a area that needs allot of filler I use upol fiberall first Ppg makes a purple glass base filler that’s even better buttttttt $$$$$$ I use urethane high build fillers and I block the first coat with 150 Then re prime 4 to 6 coats with 2.0 tip Dura blocks are the best and I can keep up with you and I’ll have glass surface and I’m 59 I work circles around most I also like using Hutchins inline sander ‘air file Try using a interface pad with Velcro stick-it paper on your DA I use air finsishing da the choice of da can make a difference on getting something strait You get what you pay for with air tools I’ll smoke you on body work sorry sounds harsh but it’s true lol I build show cars --most of my jobs that I’ve done are 10 years old and still look like I painted them yesterday You might be faster but no way you’re straiter and strait is king It’s never done till it’s done right 😀 Easy sand and feather fill are garbage they don’t last Knowing what products to use and how much to put on is a very big deal That wood finishing electric da with a bent pad will make more waves than it gets rid off sorry 😢 Come to my shop in Louisiana for a few days I’ll show you a few things and make you faster
I block almost everything...cant risk it...I have no issues and doesnt take that much more time. I do straighten filler with 80...but i use 180 to take out my 80 scratches...im worried about shrinking primer in that 80 scratches....poly primer is way different then urethane primer. It does fill 80 grit and barely shrinks but you will be sealing or priming again afterwards. Alot of work there. Keep it up.
The CAMERA WORK, you feel like your the person standing with chad while he is explaining …. I feel like I’m standing watching and listening to him and the way she films it’s like I’m there and I would be moving the way she does … may sound crazy but I love it great video.
Can you please ask Chad to respond to this question. what grits n process of paper if I’m trying to paint a car in lacquer primer / paint at home? (Base coat / clear coat system) from bog all the way to buff, Please.
Thank you jolene for asking ther same questions on us novices. I am hopefully see your finished dash soon and the frame come off and see how Chad make the Frame to make it safe and comfortable. Great job promoting HIltz. Barry
It's ironic, because all the tips you're sharing would be considered "hacks" by folks just learning the trade. But, this is the stuff that separates someone at 5 years experience vs 20. Well done, sir.
Been in the industry of restorations for almost 40 years now. Good technique. Everyone does it a little bit different, but the basic principles are the same. Stay blessed, God willing sir.
Now this guy. This guy right here. Is the man i want to be taught by.
No mask, for a quick show sanding...im sure he wears one when it gets foggy in there.
No messing about.
Time saving.
Best finish.
No BS.
Ridiculous metaphors.
Random shouting.
He's an absolute legend!
The guy who taught me how to plaster was very similar. Never forgot the man. Owe him everything.
Jolene does a fantastic job filming. She knows when to get in close which makes it easier to understand what's being discussed.
When that primer shrinks you’ll see those 80 grit scratches. I did auto body for 15 years. I been out of it for about 10 years. I used urethane primers that weren’t supposed to shrink but they did. No short cuts. I always sanded to 150-180 before priming
polyester primer
That's WHY you let it SIT and "gas out" 😏 unless "in and out/collision work". Then yeah, 150/180 is a near must before ANY kinda primer. But yeah, IT IS RESTORATION....USE 120/150/180 ta BLOCK YOUR 1ST (or 2nd stage) of PRIMER 💪. Heck, I did MOST my BLACK 55 CHEVY show car with 40 grit and urethane primer 1st stage 😏...BUT? I let that sh.t SIT......"SIT" 😎
its still in primer now so i think it will fine now it done shrinking
the older type primer will shrink but that poly and catalyst k2 shit don't shrink for decades
Yep, another old schooler here. Clean in up with 180, get your 80 grits and pinholes there.Feather fill can fill little waves too. Never go past 180 after polyester which includes filler and glaze. First cut the feather fill with 180 and guide coat again if you step down, Wet it again with 2k every time you cut through. Keep going like that without cheating out any low spots and you'll have a straight car when it goes in the booth.
We love you, Chad. So please, put a mask on !
I've done that for years and just looking at you doing that, dust is coming out my computer screen.
Jolene wants two things : a marvelous car AND a marvelous Chad. Both of them. And for a long time.
I don't mean to be a dickhead here but do you think he can talk with a mask on and video it and have you understand what he is saying . I am sure he uses one when not trying to talk to people on a video . I have a UA-cam channel to and I have tryed it it doesn't work
If I had it to do again I would use a mask...save your lungs
Well, I think she’s still working on it. Time goes by fast
I learned more on this one video than years of watching and wasting time on sanding blocking and painting! Thank you sir! You are a gentleman and a true craftsman!
I like learning new ways to do something.Chad makes it all look simple.Jolene is always in the right place so we can see.
Everything Chad says makes so much sense. Very good teacher and explainer
I find it hilarious that some guy on his couch is questioning how you do what you do...I have bean painting cars for 20 years now. When I watch you I see a guy who knows exactly what he is doing love your work brotha keep hammering!!!!
Chad you have the right attitude working on the Jag. I think so many over thing and never get anything done on their projects, I'm one of them..
Sure wish I would of had someone like you to show me when I was in my twenties . It would have saved me a lot of money and time . Your a great teacher and someone for young people to look up to.
I agree, I could have built a lot more cars. Eye opening and motivating.
I am a fan of Bad Chad. I have watch all his episodes and can't wait till the next one comes out. His imagination has created some of the coolest cars I have ever seen. This video is very educational for those who are getting into bodywork. Thanks Bad Chad!
36 years doing body and paint . You may be faster than me skipping your sanding a fine step . But my job will look better 20 years down the road. I've always finished in 180 primed then sand 320. My scratches will never come through yours will.
I see some people saying no but all car truck you done be out this world giving all tricks up for free thanks for video on here love channel
High build primer is a god send when you're deadline becomes reality.. I love my Flexi sander for curvy surfaces
I will admit , your videos is most educational. You don’t do short cuts. Very great job
Now you can start block sanding by hand, D A only good on flat surface!
I use to say that until seeing Chad’s results. It’s as good as anyone does using flex blocks by hand.
I think is good with single stage
I understand what you mean about the different grit paper being a wood floor sander. You can over sand and not even be cutting the wood. Very informative guys. Watched the whole build
I remember back in the day when all it was lead and lacquer primer and lacquer glaze . I will say now the materials are like working with cement to clay like in the old days and their are a lot of different types of materials that if you don’t know what the uses or apply it at the right stage can be a disaster in the overall system and longevity of the restoration
I agree the method is fast, and what you say about course paper is what cuts strait. But I'd go to from 80 to 120 before primer. Just to make sure sand 80 grit sand scratches dont shrink back over time. Love the content Chad great work.
Agreed..
agreed. 40 & 80 can, & do shrink, & it shows later after the sun hits it. Shrinkage demons.
YES sir, guys on the shrinkage stuff... THAT'S WHY it's SOOO IMPORTANT that you LET THE SH.T SIT....😏 (Give it time to GAS OUT ect.) But YES! IF you don't have AT LEAST A WEEK to let sit? 120 grit IS a GREAT step before high build anyways. 👍 And...? IF you DON'T have at LEAST a week or so to let the panel sit before blocking? Then they SHOULDN'T BE DOING "Auto Body RESTORATION" ANYWAYS! 😒 ALL that "hurry up crap" is just NUTHIN but "Laugh/Smile NOW but Cry LATER"......😎
@@jamescon55 that G2 feather fill is virtually liquid glaze. Like, you said, give it time to cure and all is fine. I only use it on the gnarliest of bodies, but I use it relatively often.
@@aamantium1 Evercoat "polyester primers" has stepped up their line of products in the last decade for sure. I still prefer the Evercoat Super Build 4-1 polyester line vs. ANY that "Featherfill" line. It's waaay more user friendly and you can mix-up small amounts for spot priming and waaay longer pot life time for actual SPRAYING.
It's a pleasure watching you work my friend, you're a true artist and have produced some beautiful machines.
RETIRED NOW, BUT HAVE BEEN USEING 80 GRIT MYSELF AND GREAT RESULTS , GREAT WORK AND IDEAS , THANKS
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. You are awesome taking time to show your technique for fastest way to do body work. I am starting to restore my 1948 chevy five window pickup again. My dad and me built it together when I was in High School in 1995. I did it the harder way fine sanded with 220 and 320 before primer. I'm going to do it your way this time, save a lot of time and work.
Bad chad,
Thank you for your channel and showing folks what really goes into a restoration. When people haven’t done this they have no clue.
it is a pleasure watching and listing to you
Thanks for explaining the relationship between primer, filler and choice of sandpaper in a way that is easy to immediately understand ! I have done some body work on my projects and realize I always have done it wrong. Polishing instead of straightening and getting those waves you mentioned. Thanks Chad !
Really like he's talking as he doing the work explaining what he is doing and where mistakes can and will happen I am doing a 1958 chevy fleet side long bed hope full to get it done this summer its my first build complet tear down
Whenever I see Chad, I feel inspired.
Great job so far. What a beautiful car you're building !
Would be intresting to see that car few months after its been painted. I have been bodyman/painter for 22 years and seen many cars when people used wrong grit. I agree with Chad that 80 grit will make is straight, but ALWAYS take finer grit 220-240 or 320 BEFORE put primer on. None of excisting primer products on market will work to cover 80 or even 120 grit....It will look great first few days or weeks but it will shrink and show that eventually.
Not if heat treated.. you will see any prob before hand and he will obvioisly fix it.. I do get what your saying but look at the customs he has done already....pretty sure he would of corrected that at this point....but like Chad says always...it might not be the way you like it but it's how he likes it... that's why you do it your way and let him do his
Also these are custom builds not factory perfected...there a lil more loved due to work...if your right hey ...I'll give ya that ..just saying he knows by now what to do an what not I'm sure...hes got super clean builds for most anyone in this labe of fab work..not just body paint garage
Would be nice if you spelled interesting proper
@@Wheelerdealer2 yeah sorry if my very disturbing misspelling destroyed your day. get a life dude
@@jockejohansson5957 yeah you don't even know me and you ruined my life with your spelling error get with the program man
I love your show and how your mind works when creating something unusual. Nice that joline is by your side. Keep doing it.
You show me a lot i love your honesty and work ty for all the time you use to show us how to doit
Been using feather fill since since 1975. When it hit the market they advertised it to go over 40 grit no problem. Went from bare bondo to paint with a team and best paint in 3 days using feather fill
1975 wow didn't know it was around that long. Good stuff ! 😉
I used to use the fill n sand lacquer. The polyester is way better.
i've done this for many years and loved this work.... totally agree about 40-80 grid is able to make it straight, but i allways go with sanding blocks instead of a DA sander if it really has to be straight.... the big advantage of this car is that it had no flat surfaces maybe the doorpanel, but that's the only panel that is really flat, a curved surfase is very forgiving for minor imperfections
priming after 80 grid works really well especially when you give it a good cure..
nice job
Chad I really appreciate the way you break down the steps and the reason why you do it how you do it. Also love your creative mind. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST AUTOMOTIVE UA-cam CHANNEL OUT THERE. CHAD, YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE GENIUS. JOLENE IS SO SMART TO BE DOCUMENTING YOUR LIFE AS YOU WILL BE KNOWN AS THE GREATEST OF ALL TIME. I CAN'T THANK YOU BOTH ENOUGH FOR THE DAILY INSPIRATION. YOU GUYS ARE THE REAL DEAL.
Love watching your videos. I'm getting ready to do my own body work for the first time and you make me feel comfortable that I won't completely mess this up.
I did a truck 14 years ago same way as him. Wet sand polish finish looked perfect. Once it got out in the sun a year or so the scratches started appearing think from different materials shrinking at different rates.
Wow. I painted my first car and went through all the sanding steps and spent a loooong time. Wish I had seen this video before as I would’ve loved to save some time and work.
I am getting to this stage on some old rusty Vw double cabs. I see your sanding logic. Will give it a try.. Thanks for your time.
Great to see that somebody else uses a 6" da and a 8" da for body work and blocking primer. I even use my 6"da to initially block my clearcoat.
Primer filler amen, was waiting for this episode and for you to school the naysayers, in 1977 we were using primer filler to go over filler in the UK body shop I worked in and it saved the day every time. They got better over the years obs but so pleased to see this episode :)
We still use polyester primer on show cars. These techniques he is using are why he works for himself. Any shop would laugh at him.
Fussy pedantic perfectionist grand master of body work , bloody enjoyed every minute.
Hey Chad and Jolene......Big fan Seattle! Saw the repeat on Discover Channel of the Pinto build. I watched when it first aired and watched both episodes again!! Great stuff....
Yes the high build has got those scratches out. But over time the primer will sink revealing those scratches all over the car.
Invest in some blocks too for the primer, keeps everything nice and straight and flat.
I'm glad they asked, I learn more with a little antagonism, My Dad was a Marine. lol Good stuff Bad Chad.
I am kicking myself for going down to 240. Now I am fighting the waves. Thanks for show how simple and fast it can be.
I use 80 on lightweight bog then 150 just to take the 80 scratches out then prime. 240 block primer and depending on the top coat da 400 2k 500 clear over base. Take your time on the 80 and just knock off the top with 150. If you know what I'm saying
Then your waves were always there. 220 is just to remove scratches, that's all. It takes like an hour to run over the car after using 80 with 180 and then again with 220 because all your doing or supposed to be doing with 180 and 220 is removing scratches, that's it. If your fighting waves, you need to sand the car off, get the filler and the 40 grit back out because you weren't done with those yet.
Got it.... Guide coat shows the imperfections and allows you to smooth better.... Dude you are awesome!!!
We called it over spraying not guide coatings. But we were a small hot rod shop. Sure miss it. Keep up the good work cant wait to see that beautiful thing done the right way and looks like your doing it. Much love from one car guy to another. Or one car brother to another. And i only knew how to use a DA not a block. Just what i was taught with. Just have to be careful to not let your fingers get hit by that weight on it lol only takes a few times of losing your finger nail to learn lol
I always love listening to you Chad! Thank you for everything! Like always Jolene, great video!
Thanks for ur tips n tricks ! It takes alot of hours to build a car so every tips is like gold . thanks!
It's always great going back in time to see the stages of the build.
i like you talking about what your working on . Chad, you should be a body shop school teacher.
Shops that I have worked at required me to finish the filler with 120-150g before the primer. So I would simply guide coat the filler and DA it till the guide coat is all gone. Painters couldn't believe how straight my bodywork was after finishing with a DA. You are absolutely correct about blocking filler w 150-220g. Paper clogs and won't sand evenly.
Thanks Chad and Jolene! Cheers 🍻
Another great video. Thanks for sharing
When I got my Gamora it was a parts car and everyone said it was going to be a money pit and was junk. I followed you and used G2 and my $375 Urechem kit driveway paint turned out great. Thank you!
I'm a body tech watch your show love your work bro and you are old school and it works don't change my man
You are absolutely correct.
If you call 2k primer company's they will tell you 2k primers can fill 80 grit scratches. 36, 80, prime 180, 400 paint.
Congratulations on the 60k Chad & Jolene! Another great episode!
I would also reccomend a mask, or if thaťs not an option you could use a Mirka Deros sander with Abranet sanding discs, then you are sanding almost dust free, check out Mirka Deros on you tube.😁👍
ALL materials shrink back... The new materials are amazing, but they also do this to a degree. The effect of this is only seen a few years down the road and shows as sanding scratches. What you are doing is production bodyshop techniques, which is fine, and certainly saves time. For what it's worth, I start with epoxy primer-sealer on the metal. Scuff with 220, followed by spray filler, similar product to what you are using. Wait a few days. Block-sand with 80 and or 120. Spot putty as needed. Apply a final coat of epoxy primer-sealer. Guide coat. Wait a few days. Dry- block with 220, 320. Guide-coat. Wet-sand with 400. Once the surface develops a shine, it can be checked with reflected light for any areas that are not true. Finish with 500 wet. The idea is to finish with an epoxy 'jacket' around the car that stops any who knows what from coming through. That DA on high-crown areas can be tricky to produce a true surface! Great on the low-crown or flat areas though.
Great Lesson and Advice. Love The Progress on A Brilliant Project👍👍👍
Great explanation on the 40 80 paper grip man!!!! I have a 1971 VW Bus that I will subscribe and follow your advise once I start my Peral two tone paint job soon... Cheers man Thanks for the awesome video and WOW that car looks amazing I cannot wait to see the finish product...Cheers man stay safe...
Great thinking Chad good old fashioned Canadian engineering! Thanks for the sanding lesson
Thanks Chad for showing this you sure are right
Evercoat feather fill G2 is the best polyester primer out there. It's the only poly that can be wetsanded. The only poly that you can use an etch prime first, then wetsand without it holding in the moisture. Been using it for many many years.
Bro, I dig the part about tilting the sander. I have constant arguments with my guys. I believe in flat all the way to 1500 grit
Chad, you are an artist. Congratulations and thank you for sharing your art and knowledge with us. Best regards and stay healthy.
thanks for the vid chad..very good and educational
With a hearty Yee Haw & screeching Waa Hoo in her rusty crusty truck, with her faithful Indian companion CROWBAR at her side - The Lone Stranger rattles and rumbles in a cloud of flying debris across Nova Scotia to get in place for the Chad & Jolene daily shindig.
You're a nut. Lol
fantastic video as always
just learning, doing lots of research and have a good tip. Apparently, the powder guide coat doesn't clog the sand paper like the spray on.
Looking Bloody Good Chad...Good on you mate!!!
Using a da will always leave waffles in the final paint. Hand block is the only way to finish. Also going to 120 not stopping at 80. Just the way I do it but you are still talented man.
Very interesting didn’t understand glide coat but I do now I’ll try that next time thanks so much
Very nice work!!!👍👍👍
Another awesome video 👍👍
You guys are doing a great job. Chad you're a great teacher and Joleen you do a great job filming
I have seen primer Bridge 80 grit scratches they can shrink and come back after paint and buff with some 2K primers there's a lot of work in between priming,blocking, painting, cutting and buffing to detail the car and set it in the sun find out you're sand scratches came back in your body filler
Primer let sit for a month then sand
@@mathewgoff1444 just feather edge it with 180 or 220 and you don't have to worry about it
You are right, I've seen panels primed with 2k primer and after a period of time you can see the sanding marks. I think the thinners in the paint and lacquer soften the primer and allow you to see the sanding marks.
This isn’t 2k primer
@@matthemberry surely it's a form of 2k primer he adds a harder to make it go off.
Mirca makes great dustless electric directional action sanders. Less dust in the shop to clean up and less dust in the lungs. I got one for my shop. Its a great investment. If you know what I saying
“If you know what I’m trying to tel ya” lol i love when he says that!
Love the detail, inculding specific materials. Your are a good teacher, and a good teamwork. I need to paint a car now !
Polyester filler will crack over time especially in sun light
I’ve been building cars for 40 years I started with ppg red oxide then used kondar high build when it became available
Now I use nexerra urethane high build I epoxy prime over bondo first
80 grit paper will make something feel strait when it’s not
If you’re going to do a perfection job that will pass a fluorescent light test
I use white cotton gloves
I do agree with guid coat but I finish with 150 or 120 grit it’s just corse enough to get it straight
You can’t get something strait with fine paper but once it’s strait polish it with 320 lightly if it’s strait you’ll know it
Bondo is very hard to get perfect
I work my metal first
I use glaze coat instead of polyester filler upole icing is best
If I have a area that needs allot of filler
I use upol fiberall first
Ppg makes a purple glass base filler that’s even better buttttttt $$$$$$
I use urethane high build fillers and I block the first coat with 150
Then re prime 4 to 6 coats with 2.0 tip
Dura blocks are the best and I can keep up with you and I’ll have glass surface and I’m 59
I work circles around most
I also like using Hutchins inline sander ‘air file
Try using a interface pad with Velcro stick-it paper on your DA I use air finsishing da the choice of da can make a difference on getting something strait
You get what you pay for with air tools
I’ll smoke you on body work sorry sounds harsh but it’s true lol
I build show cars --most of my jobs that I’ve done are 10 years old and still look like I painted them yesterday
You might be faster but no way you’re straiter and strait is king
It’s never done till it’s done right 😀
Easy sand and feather fill are garbage they don’t last
Knowing what products to use and how much to put on is a very big deal
That wood finishing electric da with a bent pad will make more waves than it gets rid off sorry 😢
Come to my shop in Louisiana for a few days I’ll show you a few things and make you faster
I block almost everything...cant risk it...I have no issues and doesnt take that much more time. I do straighten filler with 80...but i use 180 to take out my 80 scratches...im worried about shrinking primer in that 80 scratches....poly primer is way different then urethane primer. It does fill 80 grit and barely shrinks but you will be sealing or priming again afterwards. Alot of work there. Keep it up.
Chad you are preaching….. I am converted to your church. Great job!
Smart idea on the sanding. I'm going to try that Feather Fill.
Love the electric DA Chad! I use the same, for the same reasons you do. I like Makita though. Keep up the great work!
What brand is that
The CAMERA WORK, you feel like your the person standing with chad while he is explaining …. I feel like I’m standing watching and listening to him and the way she films it’s like I’m there and I would be moving the way she does … may sound crazy but I love it great video.
Really enjoy Brad. Cheers. Mike in Oz
Just watched this video , nice work mate , well informative , and is that a cattle dog 🐶, 🤘🤘
Can you please ask Chad to respond to this question. what grits n process of paper if I’m trying to paint a car in lacquer primer / paint at home? (Base coat / clear coat system) from bog all the way to buff, Please.
I've understood that sanding the guide coat by hand will leave finger impressions in the finish not flat like a board sanding would.
I'm looking forward to the end result.🥰❤
Also use a respirator while mixing and spraying all materials.
The Mr. Rogers of custom paint and body. Would you do my body work. Lol. Very different style I can appreciate. Carry on.
Thank you jolene for asking ther same questions on us novices. I am hopefully see your finished dash soon and the frame come off and see how Chad make the Frame to make it safe and comfortable. Great job promoting HIltz. Barry
What works for you! And you are happy at the end
Amazing! What a work of art! Pure genius!
It's ironic, because all the tips you're sharing would be considered "hacks" by folks just learning the trade. But, this is the stuff that separates someone at 5 years experience vs 20. Well done, sir.
Awesome PEPSI tool bin !