You don't have to remove the alternator to remove the bottom part of the EGR valve. All you need is a deep well 10mm socket and ratchet. This will save you soo much time and effort and MONEY! Thank you for explaining the EGR valve 😊
Great video! just wanted to give your viewers a shortcut on this job. Alternator removal is not required and you can access bottom egr bolt with a 1/4" drive socket. saves a lot of time rather than removing panels belt alternator. also egr tube on top of intake removal not required. only 4 bolts needed for removal. the two egr mounting bolts and the two tube bolts on the egr. thanks again for all your great videos, hopefully theres more to come. Happy New Year.
Just finished the job. Took 4 hours (with a trip to the parts store to borrow a belt tensioner wrench). I had to do exactly what you show in the video (take the tire off, loosen the alternator, etc) - the lower bolt was 1 or 2 mm shy of clearing the alternator, but not quite enough. Your video was invaluable!
Brian, awesome job on the repair video sir. My 2006 Caravan just popped the P0406 code this afternoon and my wife freaked out because "a light started blinking"; lol. Went straight to UA-cam after pulling the code. Your video was the 1st on the list. No need to view any others because your video was so clear and concise. Good job sir!
Thanks much ... also thanks to the guys who posted about removing the top bolt on the valve and then using a pry bar to twist the unit toward the passenger compartment so you can get to the bottom bolt. Worked like a charm and I was done within 30 minutes total. Great do-it-yourself project. The valve was 70 bucks at Auto Zone.
Thank you for this video. It has saved us hundreds even with paying for the mechanic and part. My brother got a crazy quote and your video showed that there wasn't enough labor to justify a 4x quote. So, we took it to a more trusted mechanic near my house. Thanks so much.
Great video, thanks. I changed by EGR valve today myself. 2007 caravan (I had code P0406). The bottom 10 mm bolt is the toughest to reach. Removed the top 10 mm bolt, then pushed the EGR valve upwards, then I could reach in to remove the bottom 10 mm bolt without having to do anything to the alternator. Very tight, but it came out!
Our 2005 chrysler 300 is at the shop now which I am having the shop change the egr valve due to my time restraints. It does look a little involved and my wife wants the car BACK TIDAY!!!. So I am having the shop do the repair. Thanks for the great tutorial!! Eric, Aiea, Hawaii
Hi Brian I'm So glad that I get a chance to watched your video.I have 2001 T&C 3.8L Got the same codes.Engine light came on (the van ran high rev but doesn't want to move)P04,P06 recently went to Two different shops,The first one wanted to replace my Trans control Module,and solenoid will cost about 1500 bucks,
I am not great at working on cars but I did it! I did not have to remove the alternator on our 2006 T&C. I removed the top 10mm and then pushed the EGR valve back with my hand to loosen and get to the bottom 10mm. It was still a tight fit but it barely came out. It took me a little bit to get the new bolt started because of the tight space but I finally got it. Figured I saved a couple hundred $. Thanks for the video.
Just got my replacement EGR valve in the mail today (ebay $64.12 delivered) and will be doing this this weekend. This video will be invaluable! And I'll stop by the store and get some PB Blaster while I'm at it. Thanks!
Great instruction! Previous "mechanic" broke the lower bolt off in the exhaust manifold. Still had about 4 threads of engagement, so left it alone but didn't put full torque on since it would just be bumping into the tip of the broken bolt. Thanks again, you have saved my hide more than once!
Hye Brian you can save alot of work on those by removing the top bolt of the egr then using a really ling prybar to push the egr valve towards the intake. Once it moves ahead you can remove that bottom bolt with a 1/4 drive 10mm shallow flex socket! I've literally changed hundreds of them at the dealer and you need to do them fast working flatrate to make the time. Nice vids man!
My Town and Country is a 2010, 3.8 liter. The error codes were the same, and the EGR valve is the same. The difference is that the valve is located at the opposite corner of the motor. It's on the driver's side, below and behind the coil pack. The intake plenum tube plugs in the same place as in this video, so just follow it around. Other than that it's the same as this video. Also, my check engine light took about 75 miles and several starts and stops of the motor to go out, so don't panic if it doesn't shut off right away.
Thanks a TON. I just did this on our 2006 Grand Caravan. Your instructions were great. Of course leave it to Chrysler to change things from the 2005 T&C you show and the 2006 GC that I have. The 19mm or 3/4 inch wrench did no good since the tensioner pulley does not have a box end. I had to run to an auto parts store and get a loaner serpentine belt tool. Anyway, used the short bar connected to the pulley, and the long bar connected to the short one and it was cake. A lot of work for 1 bolt.
@Joefish44618 How much was the Napa part? A: to reset the light you can 1. disconnect the battery for 30 seconds 2. use a scan tool to clear the codes. 3. Pull the ECM fuse for 30 seconds.
great video. heads up though. in stead of pulling the alternator you can get at that second bolt with an extension. or by taking the first bolt off and pivoting the egr valve till you have enough space. great video though! very Informative!
Generally yes. It has built in position sensors to monitor it. Symptoms otherwise would be running rough at idle if stuck open or poor highway economy and high NOx emissions if stuck closed.
@TheKuggy For 2002 3.8l They are located just above the alternator (pretty much in the same location.) If yours isn't there it may have been deleted by putting a plate to cover the hole in it's place.
Great video. I have a 2005 Town and Country with 67,000 miles and got the P0404 code. I replaced the EGR valve today. If you are lucky and the bolts are not corroded, it is possible to wiggle out the lower bolt without moving the alternator, so I would suggest trying that first.
Brian this is excellent - your backtracking and explanations are very clear and easy to follow and allows the viewer to quickly determine how the fix will most likely be done and whether they feel they have the skill set to attempt it. Thanks!
@hardboot21 You my friend are correct in that a failed EGR valve will cause excessive oxides of nitrogen, but it main function is to improve highway fuel economy by injecting inert exhaust back through the intake.
Brian, I myself had to deal with that belt tensioner when replacing the water pump over the weekend-- It's a nightmare to replace that thing. Also have changed a few EGR valves myself. Seems there are many common issues with these, power steering res gets blocked, water pump leaks, EGR, and front brakes(I end up going through a set every 6 months, rotors get torn up too). I think when I did the EGR I drove it hard for a bit to heat the head up, lower bolt should come out without much force.
Thanks for your assistance. I was able to get the EGR valve in with out removing the alternator. Thank goodness because I counldn't get that third bolt on it to budge. Now I have to look at the struts. They are starting to creek and make noises.
@linaeme46 They're independent in function, but work in concert to manage air fuel mixture. The EGR works to manage NoX. The MAF meters or measures how much air is incoming so the computer can use that data to inject the right amount of fuel into the intake manifold.
You can jack it by the sub frame, pinch weld, suspension etc. A van that light would do fine on a pair of most any automotive jack stands. 2 ton or 3 ton is what I often use on those.
The replacement alternators leave space for you to put a socket in the lower part of the valve. I had a P0404 code, replaced the valve, then two days later the catalytic converter clogged, causing the van to go a whopping 10mph and an excrutiatingly painful 7mpg! Loosening the four bolts on the cc got me around town until I could replace it, but that same code remained.
Brian this is another nice video.Iam not mechanic i learning from you guys,but in this situation i dont touch any bolt from the alternator just the 2 egr bolts the top first then the lower with a 10mm wrench just take a little more time.God bless you.
Just watched the video, read the comments, got the part and replaced it successfully. It is correct that you can easily get to the bottom bolt without removing the alternator. It is correct that after removing the top bolt simply move the valve toward you to reach the bottom bolt. Thanks to all of you who made those comments. I wouldn't have done it if I needed to remove the alternator and belt!
I have not had to remove so much in order to perform this repair on a 2005 Grand Caravan with the 3.3L engine. It is in the exact same position. The one bolt is very difficult to remove, but it can be done. Great video. Shows exactly where it is.
You can just loosen all bolts except bottom one and use a pry bar to push the egr valve back and this will break bolt free and allow you to loosen easily no need to drop alternator.
thank you very much! because of this video I was able to replace my EGR. Mine is the 3.3 liter and I had to borrow a slim 1/2" drive to release the tention off the belt. The auto parts store let me use the serpentine belt tool kit for free.
hi Brian, what spot do you suggest jacking the van up? floor jack location suggested in service manual? I saw some lifting it from under the shock absorber assembly (if not mistaken)? and then use the jack stands under the flat tire frame lift spot? what do you recommend the capacity on the jack stand for 4700 curb weight?
Brian, thanks for the video, Is there a sign of an EGR valve failure? I mean could it fail or about to, but still no codes? my 2009 T&C has 76K, not sure, it could be it's original EGR, I had changed oil, transmission fluid, air filter, and soon spark plugs & wires to improve MPG. the question is, if there are no codes, don't change it?... Thanks,
good job on the vid. I did this though without messing with the alternator. 1/4" socket, extension, and 10 mm shallow was what I used to get to the bottom bolt. Removed top bolt rather easily. Then I just grabbed the valve and moved it back and forth a bit to loosen it up. Then the bolt loosend a bit so that it could be removed. If it wasn't for the bottom bolt this would be a very easy fix.
Man, This video was excellent. Afetr watching it. I went out and it was exactly like you described in your video. Took about half hour total and done. Light went off and good to go. Thank you. I subscribed to your channel. Best mechanic video I ever seen.
Brian, I'm sorry, I have a question not related to this, how do you suggest taking the rest of the coolant out of the engine block, or same taking the flushing water out? in my case a 2009 T&C van.. so I can maintain a 50/50 new coolant to water mix?
thank-you from watching the video this was a simple job, I also did not have to remove the other bolts on the alt just used the extender. so thanks for your time and effort to show this.
Hey thank you very much. After watching this video everything went smooth. The only hard part was the short altenater bolt. So far no engine light. Looks like it worked.
AWESOME information!!! The code we had was only p 0404, my husband wants to know can he just disconnect the hose and spray it out with throttle body & air-intake cleaner then replace the hose. Do you think that will fix the problem. we noticed today the air condition would only really blow when we were driving (not sure if that is because of this problem or not) If you think we should DEFINATELY replace the EGR valve thingy how much do you think a mechanic would charge? Looks like a big job!
Thats a really well done Video Brian, what time should I have it by for you to work on. No seriously though thx. I think its one Il take a pass on and just give it to a properly set up shop. If I had better equipment available I wouldnt hesitate to take it on by your explanation. Thx from all us shade tree mechs.
Thanks for the vids Brian. As for the 2005 Town and Country - are they vehicles that tend to have a lot of problems? Reason I ask, I have a buddy as work that's trading his in and he offered to let me have it for 2 grand. It has 204k miles on it, great shape. He has had it serviced regularly and has new tires. If I buy it, it would be a commuter vehicle and a travel van for our family to visit other family 500 miles away. If your opinion and knowledge of these vehicles, do u recommend I buy?
hey Brian I Did Same Job On Same Engine Same Car Couple Of Times. Little Tip Instead Taking Alternator Off You Can Just Use 3/8 Extension And 3/8 Short Socket. Comes Out Very Easy BDW Great Video Thanks...
hi brian if you have a flexible 10mm snap on socket, you can just remove the EGR valve without removing the ALTERNATOR. Just did it Yesterday. It took 15 minutes to complete the job. I got my EGR valve from O'riley auto parts for $75.00 + tax
Thanks so much. This is going to save me a few bucks. I just bought a code scanner, looked up the code, found your video, and I should be set. I'll by through your amazon link if it's a competitive price.
Hey Brian I'm getting a p401 code. I just had the alternator, belt and intake gasket replaced. Could this be the EGR valve as well? Thanks for the help if you can!
Hey great video, but just a heads up, there is no need to anything with the belt, alternator, the bottom bolt can b remove with 1/4 drive with extension and 10mm socket, just take it slow and saturate bolts with pb blaster prior to removing.
Tim LeFever maybe true on some vans where the bolt isn't so long that it hits the alternator before disengaging from the engine. With so may people saying it can be done without removing the alternator some must be made with a shorter bolt. but mine had a half inch left in the engine. Very frustrating.
I have the 1999 chrysler T&C with the 3.8 Is the EGR valve even located on the engine where it is accessible and i dont have to rip apart the engine to replace it or should i use the Chrysler Recall get the part and let crysler fix their mistake?
Hey Brin this is Gerry from BC, Canada, Great video as always. Question: My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 ltr has what looks like oil on the outside of the intake manifold by the gasket. Would replacing the EGR valve solve that problem or is it from something else? I can send you pics for clarification if needed. Cheers.
Replaced my valve 1 yr ago and took a rode trip and the engine light came on..Apparently Chrysler 3.3 motors are notorious for this issue..Thx for ur video
@mrexecutive1 Can I get alternator out without removing egr valve? What is best way to remove bottom bolt of alternator, the one facing the front of the van below manifold. What is best sequence remove all 3 bolts and then move forward the alt. and then find access to the lower egr bolt. Is it necessary to put in new egr gasket?
Watched the video, everything was flying and it looked like a 45 minute job with my friend. Then came the belt tensioner. No 3/4 inch (19 mm) Nub to grab with the wrench or accessible 1/2 inch square hole to insert the end of a breaker bar. Wasted over an hour and he just left to borrow a Belt Tension tool (or whatever it's called, my wife calls it a thingie) from the parts store where he bought the EGR valve So close and yet so far. Thanks for the great video. Next video.. This situation! LOL
Hello! Thanks for the video. It was truly the egr-valve in my 2006 chrysler voyager. I also loosened the lower bolt by turning the hole valve. in germany the motorpart was 100 euro in the bay. At the mercedes benz service they take 3 times more, i think.
No need to remove the alternator. Just take off the top bolt of the EGR component, and use a pry bar to easily move the EGR back (toward the firewall) and expose the Lower bolt for easy removal. This whole process should be fast and easy.
+Mike Brown Thank you, Mike. You were spot on. I still needed to thread it out with fingers after using a narrower socket, but this beats moving the alternator! For the upper 10mm bolt, I've used a bulkier one ($2.50 at Home Depot) as it crippled its weaker, narrower sibling. Also, moving the EGR toward the firewall made a huge difference. I was able to get to the bottom bolt using a narrower 10mm socket and it moved with little resistance until
(continue) The other said Exhaust flow insufficient so it seems cat clogging up need to replace that and it's about $350-400 dollars.Should i stay away from these people.?(Because I honestly don't have 1500 Dollars).Should i start with the code P04 EGR valve first? Appreciated very much Brian.
You don't have to remove the alternator to remove the bottom part of the EGR valve. All you need is a deep well 10mm socket and ratchet. This will save you soo much time and effort and MONEY! Thank you for explaining the EGR valve 😊
Great video! just wanted to give your viewers a shortcut on this job. Alternator removal is not required and you can access bottom egr bolt with a 1/4" drive socket. saves a lot of time rather than removing panels belt alternator. also egr tube on top of intake removal not required. only 4 bolts needed for removal. the two egr mounting bolts and the two tube bolts on the egr. thanks again for all your great videos, hopefully theres more to come. Happy New Year.
Just finished the job. Took 4 hours (with a trip to the parts store to borrow a belt tensioner wrench). I had to do exactly what you show in the video (take the tire off, loosen the alternator, etc) - the lower bolt was 1 or 2 mm shy of clearing the alternator, but not quite enough. Your video was invaluable!
Brian, awesome job on the repair video sir. My 2006 Caravan just popped the P0406 code this afternoon and my wife freaked out because "a light started blinking"; lol. Went straight to UA-cam after pulling the code. Your video was the 1st on the list. No need to view any others because your video was so clear and concise. Good job sir!
Thanks much ... also thanks to the guys who posted about removing the top bolt on the valve and then using a pry bar to twist the unit toward the passenger compartment so you can get to the bottom bolt. Worked like a charm and I was done within 30 minutes total. Great do-it-yourself project. The valve was 70 bucks at Auto Zone.
Thank you for this video. It has saved us hundreds even with paying for the mechanic and part. My brother got a crazy quote and your video showed that there wasn't enough labor to justify a 4x quote. So, we took it to a more trusted mechanic near my house. Thanks so much.
Great video, thanks. I changed by EGR valve today myself. 2007 caravan (I had code P0406). The bottom 10 mm bolt is the toughest to reach. Removed the top 10 mm bolt, then pushed the EGR valve upwards, then I could reach in to remove the bottom 10 mm bolt without having to do anything to the alternator. Very tight, but it came out!
Our 2005 chrysler 300 is at the shop now which I am having the shop change the egr valve due to my time restraints. It does look a little involved and my wife wants the car BACK TIDAY!!!. So I am having the shop do the repair.
Thanks for the great tutorial!!
Eric,
Aiea, Hawaii
Hi Brian I'm So glad that I get a chance to watched your video.I have 2001 T&C 3.8L Got the same codes.Engine light came on (the van ran high rev but doesn't want to move)P04,P06 recently went to Two different shops,The first one wanted to replace my Trans control Module,and solenoid will cost about 1500 bucks,
I am not great at working on cars but I did it! I did not have to remove the alternator on our 2006 T&C. I removed the top 10mm and then pushed the EGR valve back with my hand to loosen and get to the bottom 10mm. It was still a tight fit but it barely came out. It took me a little bit to get the new bolt started because of the tight space but I finally got it. Figured I saved a couple hundred $. Thanks for the video.
Just got my replacement EGR valve in the mail today (ebay $64.12 delivered) and will be doing this this weekend. This video will be invaluable! And I'll stop by the store and get some PB Blaster while I'm at it. Thanks!
Great instruction! Previous "mechanic" broke the lower bolt off in the exhaust manifold. Still had about 4 threads of engagement, so left it alone but didn't put full torque on since it would just be bumping into the tip of the broken bolt. Thanks again, you have saved my hide more than once!
I paid $80 for it...
Everything works awesome.. Reset the light by disconnecting the battery... Thanks for the Vid.... helped immensely!!!
THANK YOU FOR CLARIFYING THIS. I APPRECIATE YOUR INPUT AND THE WISDOM YOU BRING WITH YOUR COMMENT. WHY ARE WE YELLING?
Hye Brian you can save alot of work on those by removing the top bolt of the egr then using a really ling prybar to push the egr valve towards the intake. Once it moves ahead you can remove that bottom bolt with a 1/4 drive 10mm shallow flex socket!
I've literally changed hundreds of them at the dealer and you need to do them fast working flatrate to make the time.
Nice vids man!
My Town and Country is a 2010, 3.8 liter. The error codes were the same, and the EGR valve is the same. The difference is that the valve is located at the opposite corner of the motor. It's on the driver's side, below and behind the coil pack. The intake plenum tube plugs in the same place as in this video, so just follow it around. Other than that it's the same as this video. Also, my check engine light took about 75 miles and several starts and stops of the motor to go out, so don't panic if it doesn't shut off right away.
@TheKuggy Has the computer been replaced or re flashed? There's a recall on some of them. If it wasn't equipped with one then your ECM is bug.
Great job! Would I also need to replace the egr valve sensor too?
Thanks a TON. I just did this on our 2006 Grand Caravan. Your instructions were great. Of course leave it to Chrysler to change things from the 2005 T&C you show and the 2006 GC that I have. The 19mm or 3/4 inch wrench did no good since the tensioner pulley does not have a box end. I had to run to an auto parts store and get a loaner serpentine belt tool. Anyway, used the short bar connected to the pulley, and the long bar connected to the short one and it was cake. A lot of work for 1 bolt.
@TheKuggy Is yours a 3.0 liter? If so it may be on the back of the motor on the drivers side.
thanx dude im doing mine in a few days. im so thankful for guys like you on youtube who are kind enough to share your knowledge!
@Joefish44618 How much was the Napa part? A: to reset the light you can 1. disconnect the battery for 30 seconds 2. use a scan tool to clear the codes. 3. Pull the ECM fuse for 30 seconds.
great video. heads up though. in stead of pulling the alternator you can get at that second bolt with an extension. or by taking the first bolt off and pivoting the egr valve till you have enough space. great video though! very Informative!
I do them from underneath. It's pretty easy except for the far passenger side one. You have to be creative with extentions on that one.
Generally yes. It has built in position sensors to monitor it. Symptoms otherwise would be running rough at idle if stuck open or poor highway economy and high NOx emissions if stuck closed.
@TheKuggy For 2002 3.8l They are located just above the alternator (pretty much in the same location.) If yours isn't there it may have been deleted by putting a plate to cover the hole in it's place.
Great video. I have a 2005 Town and Country with 67,000 miles and got the P0404 code. I replaced the EGR valve today. If you are lucky and the bolts are not corroded, it is possible to wiggle out the lower bolt without moving the alternator, so I would suggest trying that first.
Brian this is excellent - your backtracking and explanations are very clear and easy to follow and allows the viewer to quickly determine how the fix will most likely be done and whether they feel they have the skill set to attempt it. Thanks!
@hardboot21 You my friend are correct in that a failed EGR valve will cause excessive oxides of nitrogen, but it main function is to improve highway fuel economy by injecting inert exhaust back through the intake.
Brian, I myself had to deal with that belt tensioner when replacing the water pump over the weekend-- It's a nightmare to replace that thing. Also have changed a few EGR valves myself. Seems there are many common issues with these, power steering res gets blocked, water pump leaks, EGR, and front brakes(I end up going through a set every 6 months, rotors get torn up too).
I think when I did the EGR I drove it hard for a bit to heat the head up, lower bolt should come out without much force.
Thanks for this video. It really helps to understand why it costs $45/hour to get this work done.
Thanks for your assistance. I was able to get the EGR valve in with out removing the alternator. Thank goodness because I counldn't get that third bolt on it to budge.
Now I have to look at the struts. They are starting to creek and make noises.
@linaeme46 They're independent in function, but work in concert to manage air fuel mixture. The EGR works to manage NoX. The MAF meters or measures how much air is incoming so the computer can use that data to inject the right amount of fuel into the intake manifold.
Good job Thank you
You realy helped clarify what's involved in replacing an erg valve. Is a Dodge caravan 3.6 L erg valve easy to replace ?
You can jack it by the sub frame, pinch weld, suspension etc. A van that light would do fine on a pair of most any automotive jack stands. 2 ton or 3 ton is what I often use on those.
On the money. Quick and to the point. Just what I needed! Thank you!
Welcome!
@Gardensynergy It can be. Power loss off the line would be too.
The replacement alternators leave space for you to put a socket in the lower part of the valve. I had a P0404 code, replaced the valve, then two days later the catalytic converter clogged, causing the van to go a whopping 10mph and an excrutiatingly painful 7mpg! Loosening the four bolts on the cc got me around town until I could replace it, but that same code remained.
This is a great video man, thanks. i wasn't sure how to replace the EGR valve on my parents T&C, now i feel a bit more confident. thanks again.
Thanks Juan - I really appreciate your support!
Brian this is another nice video.Iam not mechanic i learning from you guys,but in this situation i dont touch any bolt from the alternator just the 2 egr bolts the top first then the lower with a 10mm wrench just take a little more time.God bless you.
Just watched the video, read the comments, got the part and replaced it successfully. It is correct that you can easily get to the bottom bolt without removing the alternator. It is correct that after removing the top bolt simply move the valve toward you to reach the bottom bolt. Thanks to all of you who made those comments. I wouldn't have done it if I needed to remove the alternator and belt!
Where do you buy that? I'd love to try it.
I have not had to remove so much in order to perform this repair on a 2005 Grand Caravan with the 3.3L engine. It is in the exact same position. The one bolt is very difficult to remove, but it can be done. Great video. Shows exactly where it is.
That's true, but often times getting more out of the way makes the job go faster and helps you not miss small details.
You can just loosen all bolts except bottom one and use a pry bar to push the egr valve back and this will break bolt free and allow you to loosen easily no need to drop alternator.
thank you very much! because of this video I was able to replace my EGR. Mine is the 3.3 liter and I had to borrow a slim 1/2" drive to release the tention off the belt. The auto parts store let me use the serpentine belt tool kit for free.
@ndorowamwari You're welcome. Thank you so much for being awesome and taking on a challenge like that. YOU are the man!
Great video. I'm glad I watched it before breaking something trying to get that bottom bolt.
hi Brian, what spot do you suggest jacking the van up? floor jack location suggested in service manual? I saw some lifting it from under the shock absorber assembly (if not mistaken)? and then use the jack stands under the flat tire frame lift spot? what do you recommend the capacity on the jack stand for 4700 curb weight?
Brian, thanks for the video, Is there a sign of an EGR valve failure? I mean could it fail or about to, but still no codes? my 2009 T&C has 76K, not sure, it could be it's original EGR, I had changed oil, transmission fluid, air filter, and soon spark plugs & wires to improve MPG. the question is, if there are no codes, don't change it?... Thanks,
good job on the vid. I did this though without messing with the alternator. 1/4" socket, extension, and 10 mm shallow was what I used to get to the bottom bolt. Removed top bolt rather easily. Then I just grabbed the valve and moved it back and forth a bit to loosen it up. Then the bolt loosend a bit so that it could be removed. If it wasn't for the bottom bolt this would be a very easy fix.
Man, This video was excellent. Afetr watching it. I went out and it was exactly like you described in your video. Took about half hour total and done. Light went off and good to go. Thank you. I subscribed to your channel. Best mechanic video I ever seen.
Thanks Fish Man!
You saved me a ton of money. So thank you
@Blockhead2231 There is. It's a lead based exhaust type gasket.
Brian, I'm sorry, I have a question not related to this, how do you suggest taking the rest of the coolant out of the engine block, or same taking the flushing water out? in my case a 2009 T&C van.. so I can maintain a 50/50 new coolant to water mix?
@hydraulix78 You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
thank-you from watching the video this was a simple job, I also did not have to remove the other bolts on the alt just used the extender. so thanks for your time and effort to show this.
Hey thank you very much. After watching this video everything went smooth. The only hard part was the short altenater bolt. So far no engine light. Looks like it worked.
It's an EGR code that means the flow is insufficient. You may have black carbon build up in the ports of the intake manifold.
AWESOME information!!! The code we had was only p 0404, my husband wants to know can he just disconnect the hose and spray it out with throttle body & air-intake cleaner then replace the hose. Do you think that will fix the problem. we noticed today the air condition would only really blow when we were driving (not sure if that is because of this problem or not) If you think we should DEFINATELY replace the EGR valve thingy how much do you think a mechanic would charge? Looks like a big job!
Replaced the EGR and still have the check engine light on. Any recommendations?
Thats a really well done Video Brian, what time should I have it by for you to work on. No seriously though thx. I think its one Il take a pass on and just give it to a properly set up shop. If I had better equipment available I wouldnt hesitate to take it on by your explanation. Thx from all us shade tree mechs.
Could also be a fuel pump or ignition control module.
Thanks for the vids Brian. As for the 2005 Town and Country - are they vehicles that tend to have a lot of problems? Reason I ask, I have a buddy as work that's trading his in and he offered to let me have it for 2 grand. It has 204k miles on it, great shape. He has had it serviced regularly and has new tires. If I buy it, it would be a commuter vehicle and a travel van for our family to visit other family 500 miles away. If your opinion and knowledge of these vehicles, do u recommend I buy?
Welcome- Good luck Brian!
hey Brian I Did Same Job On Same Engine Same Car Couple Of Times. Little Tip Instead Taking Alternator Off You Can Just Use 3/8 Extension And 3/8 Short Socket. Comes Out Very Easy
BDW Great Video Thanks...
There's a plug on the cylinder head behind/below each exhaust manifold on the engine block.
@GerryJ08 It's more likely to be the Valve Cover Gasket that's leaking.
Good job Thank you
You realy helped clarify what's involved in replacing an erg valve.
I changed this last weekend. I used a 1/4 ratchet and a cheap thin walled socket and I didn't have to take off the alternator. Much easier
hi brian if you have a flexible 10mm snap on socket, you can just remove the EGR valve without removing the ALTERNATOR. Just did it Yesterday. It took 15 minutes to complete the job. I got my EGR valve from O'riley auto parts for $75.00 + tax
How did you pick the right one since there are two for the t/c van and they both look the same
Thanks so much. This is going to save me a few bucks. I just bought a code scanner, looked up the code, found your video, and I should be set. I'll by through your amazon link if it's a competitive price.
@BrotherApps You're welcome. Thanks for your gracious feedback!
EXCELLENT - u spoke in "I don't know shit and I'm not a mechanic" much appreciated !!!
Hey Brian I'm getting a p401 code. I just had the alternator, belt and intake gasket replaced. Could this be the EGR valve as well? Thanks for the help if you can!
@jcanivan It's near impossible on a 3.6L because you just can't find one! On the 3.8 however it's not too bad.
This will be a stupid question but anyway...Is the EGR valve the same in the Canadian vehicle as in the US vehicle...(Dodge Caravan 3.3)....
Very handy. Its nice to say what sizes the bolts are instead of having to go through looking for the right size.
Hey great video, but just a heads up, there is no need to anything with the belt, alternator, the bottom bolt can b remove with 1/4 drive with extension and 10mm socket, just take it slow and saturate bolts with pb blaster prior to removing.
Tim LeFever maybe true on some vans where the bolt isn't so long that it hits the alternator before disengaging from the engine. With so may people saying it can be done without removing the alternator some must be made with a shorter bolt. but mine had a half inch left in the engine. Very frustrating.
I have the 1999 chrysler T&C with the 3.8 Is the EGR valve even located on the engine where it is accessible and i dont have to rip apart the engine to replace it or should i use the Chrysler Recall get the part and let crysler fix their mistake?
Check for blocked EGR/intake manifold passages.
Thanks for posting that. Took all the mystery away. Totally doable. You da MAN!
Sir, this was VERY helpful. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise.
YOU are welcome. Thanks for clicking the thumbs up & subscribing!
always my friend always happy thanksgiving for you and all your family members God bless you !!
Hey Brin this is Gerry from BC, Canada, Great video as always. Question: My 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 ltr has what looks like oil on the outside of the intake manifold by the gasket. Would replacing the EGR valve solve that problem or is it from something else? I can send you pics for clarification if needed. Cheers.
Just what I needed to learn today for my '06!
Replaced my valve 1 yr ago and took a rode trip and the engine light came on..Apparently Chrysler 3.3 motors are notorious for this issue..Thx for ur video
Welcome Daren!
So how long can I let this go for? It doesn't seem like something I need to replace soon.
is it similar to a 4.0 L as well? Are they in the same place on this engine?
@nickbuol Cool. You're welcome and thanks for posting here.
Way to go Brian!
@mrexecutive1 Can I get alternator out without removing egr valve? What is best way to remove bottom bolt of alternator, the one facing the front of the van below manifold. What is best sequence remove all 3 bolts and then move forward the alt. and then find access to the lower egr bolt. Is it necessary to put in new egr gasket?
Watched the video, everything was flying and it looked like a 45 minute job with my friend. Then came the belt tensioner. No 3/4 inch (19 mm) Nub to grab with the wrench or accessible 1/2 inch square hole to insert the end of a breaker bar. Wasted over an hour and he just left to borrow a Belt Tension tool (or whatever it's called, my wife calls it a thingie) from the parts store where he bought the EGR valve So close and yet so far. Thanks for the great video. Next video.. This situation! LOL
Hello! Thanks for the video. It was truly the egr-valve in my 2006 chrysler voyager.
I also loosened the lower bolt by turning the hole valve. in germany the motorpart
was 100 euro in the bay. At the mercedes benz service they take 3 times more, i think.
No need to remove the alternator. Just take off the top bolt of the EGR component, and use a pry bar to easily move the EGR back (toward the firewall) and expose the Lower bolt for easy removal. This whole process should be fast and easy.
+Mike Brown
Thank you, Mike. You were spot on. I still needed to thread it out with fingers after using a narrower socket, but this beats moving the alternator! For the upper 10mm bolt, I've used a bulkier one ($2.50 at Home Depot) as it crippled its weaker, narrower sibling. Also, moving the EGR toward the firewall made a huge difference. I was able to get to the bottom bolt using a narrower 10mm socket and it moved with little resistance until
Wow! Thanks for this great video! Going to attempt to replace mine this weekend now that I know how to do it.
That was a great thorough video my friend thank you kindly for the information I was looking for😎
@jeffsmopar1 So this would alleviate the need to mess underneath or with the alternator? if so I would love a how to video for this!
Great video...but you don't mention how to reset the codes after cleaning/reinstallation of the EGR valve?
(continue) The other said Exhaust flow insufficient so it seems cat clogging up need to replace that and it's about $350-400 dollars.Should i stay away from these people.?(Because I honestly don't have 1500 Dollars).Should i start with the code P04 EGR valve first? Appreciated very much Brian.