In the video, you'll notice we used silver metal tees. I didn't link these in the video description, because after reading the reviews for these tees Vincent bought on Amazon, many people said the fittings were slightly undersized and resorted to using a screw-down clamp to get a tighter connection of the hose onto the fitting. When I was sliding the hoses onto the tee fittings, I do remember that the fit felt a bit loose. So, I didn't want to suggest anyone using those tees for this project. I suggest getting the brass tees. You can buy the brass tees as part of a kit from the Cruiser Patch website or you can buy them individually from another Toyota parts seller. We provide the part numbers for all the hoses, tees and clamps in the video description. When burping the system, have the front end higher than the rear. I think I failed to mention that in the video. Since air rises, having the radiator the highest point in the cooling system helps facilitate the removal of air in the system. You could either park on a slope with the front end pointing uphill, or you could jack up the front end of the truck to get the front end higher than the rear.
You've welcome Richard. I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the 100 Series content and thanks for recognizing the detail we put into them. Not many automotive channels offer detail like we do.
Most important PM item on a 100! Also yeah, replacing the hoses is a really good idea. I learned that the hard way, probably still a piece of plastic in my coolant tube floating around.
Yep, every owner of one of these rigs should perform this preventative maintenance if their engine has a ton of miles on it, which most of them do by now.
My brother was driving a 90 La Sabre on the highway when it overheated and died, I took antifreeze and we topped it off but now it won’t start, it cranks but won’t start. Any ideas or advice would be very much appreciated, thank you Timmy you’ve helped me out before so I’m hoping you can advise me again.
Hmmm. It could be you blew the head gasket really bad and the engine can't build enough compression to run. That's just a guess. I would do a compression check of the cylinders and see what you get.
@ I think that V6 has aluminum heads so it’s a possibility he not only blew a head gasket but warped a head but I really appreciate the info. It means a lot to me that you answer my questions, I trust your word sir.
Great video Timmy, thank you for your hard work - I'll be buying you a beer via your link soon I promise! Would this method using the non-spill top up container and heaters on etc be considered a foolproof way of bleeding your system after draining and refilling? Thank you!
@smlelikeyoumeanit3882 Nothing is foolproof because there's a chance something will sabotage the result, like some type of blockage or obstruction in your cooling system. It's about as foolproof as you can get, though. Have the front end higher than the rear. I think I failed to mention that in the video. Since air rises, having the radiator the highest point in the cooling system helps facilitate the removal of air in the system.
@TimmyTheToolman Just so you know, I did research on UA-cam for video samples but my wording wasn't quite right to find yours. Thanks for the link for your video. As you mentioned in your video I did see another UA-cam video where the guy unbent the tabs on the top of the lid. He was able to gain better access could see how well the cleaning process progressed. Plus it went faster. The only drawback was the fact you mentioned about potentially distorting the tabs. I may try his approach my 1st time.
Another great vid. I replaced the T's some years ago and ever since my heater has never got as hot as it used to. My questions are; 1. Which side is the INLET for the firewall heater core? I'll try a reverse flush. 2. As I accelerate away from traffic lights, there is a gurgling sound from the heater core area. I've tried bleeding the system many times with no effect. Regards from Down Under, Al
I honestly don't know which side is the inlet and which is the outlet. When you burped the system, did you have the front end of the truck higher than the rear and did you also have the heater control set to hot? It certainly sounds like you have trapped air in the system.
@TimmyTheToolman Yes to both questions. I have the same filling system as you and revved it at 2000 for about 20 min. I'll try again this time blipping the throttle. Cheers, Al, Brisbane. LX470
@alanhowarth2801 I've heard of people having difficulty bleeding air from their cooling system, but I've never had that issue. More air always naturally works its way out over the next few days. The fact that yours doesn't do that is concerning. Maybe there is some type of obstruction in your heater core piping. I did read a comment on the IH8MUD forum when I posted my video there, and this guy said the radiator needed to be topped off to the very top for the reservoir system to work properly and allow the level to expand when hot and retract when cold. So, after you burp the system and drive for a couple days, take the radiator cap off and top off the radiator and maybe check it a few more times to make sure the level is staying all the way to the top. Maybe doing that will solve your issue.
In the video, you'll notice we used silver metal tees. I didn't link these in the video description, because after reading the reviews for these tees Vincent bought on Amazon, many people said the fittings were slightly undersized and resorted to using a screw-down clamp to get a tighter connection of the hose onto the fitting. When I was sliding the hoses onto the tee fittings, I do remember that the fit felt a bit loose. So, I didn't want to suggest anyone using those tees for this project. I suggest getting the brass tees. You can buy the brass tees as part of a kit from the Cruiser Patch website or you can buy them individually from another Toyota parts seller. We provide the part numbers for all the hoses, tees and clamps in the video description.
When burping the system, have the front end higher than the rear. I think I failed to mention that in the video. Since air rises, having the radiator the highest point in the cooling system helps facilitate the removal of air in the system. You could either park on a slope with the front end pointing uphill, or you could jack up the front end of the truck to get the front end higher than the rear.
Tim praying for everyone in LA area! Hope you’re all safe and all is well! Give us an update on your next vod…🙏🏼😔
@kflo1219 I'm in NorCal. The SoCal area has major devastation.
Yep, Patch Agan (Cruiser Patch) is the best for these parts
This was the second thing I did after changing the oil on my 100. Thank you Timmy!
Smart man! You're welcome!
The front suspension and link arms look beautifully reworked! Great video Tim!
Thanks.
Tim and Sean, thanks again for the great videos for the 100 series Land Cruiser. Love the detail!
You've welcome Richard. I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the 100 Series content and thanks for recognizing the detail we put into them. Not many automotive channels offer detail like we do.
Most important PM item on a 100! Also yeah, replacing the hoses is a really good idea. I learned that the hard way, probably still a piece of plastic in my coolant tube floating around.
Yep, every owner of one of these rigs should perform this preventative maintenance if their engine has a ton of miles on it, which most of them do by now.
My brother was driving a 90 La Sabre on the highway when it overheated and died, I took antifreeze and we topped it off but now it won’t start, it cranks but won’t start. Any ideas or advice would be very much appreciated, thank you Timmy you’ve helped me out before so I’m hoping you can advise me again.
Hmmm. It could be you blew the head gasket really bad and the engine can't build enough compression to run. That's just a guess. I would do a compression check of the cylinders and see what you get.
@ I think that V6 has aluminum heads so it’s a possibility he not only blew a head gasket but warped a head but I really appreciate the info. It means a lot to me that you answer my questions, I trust your word sir.
Great video Timmy, thank you for your hard work - I'll be buying you a beer via your link soon I promise!
Would this method using the non-spill top up container and heaters on etc be considered a foolproof way of bleeding your system after draining and refilling? Thank you!
@smlelikeyoumeanit3882 Nothing is foolproof because there's a chance something will sabotage the result, like some type of blockage or obstruction in your cooling system. It's about as foolproof as you can get, though. Have the front end higher than the rear. I think I failed to mention that in the video. Since air rises, having the radiator the highest point in the cooling system helps facilitate the removal of air in the system.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you! Probably poor choice of wording on my part :) Really appreciate another great video.
Hey Timmy. Have you ever cleaned the screen/filter and power steering reservoir on the 5VZ-FE engine?
Yes, actually I have and we made a video that shows it. ua-cam.com/video/5k61KXRK8bM/v-deo.htmlsi=c-f_9HHuakOJwvYL
@TimmyTheToolman Just so you know, I did research on UA-cam for video samples but my wording wasn't quite right to find yours.
Thanks for the link for your video. As you mentioned in your video I did see another UA-cam video where the guy unbent the tabs on the top of the lid. He was able to gain better access could see how well the cleaning process progressed. Plus it went faster. The only drawback was the fact you mentioned about potentially distorting the tabs. I may try his approach my 1st time.
ua-cam.com/video/7u6za7NxUJU/v-deo.html&si=E-pdFYU7K81enuFP
@@richardramon2175 Good luck!
@TimmyTheToolman I think I will adopt the every 4th or 5th time I flush the reservoir I will open the top, method. To avoid opening every time
Another great vid. I replaced the T's some years ago and ever since my heater has never got as hot as it used to. My questions are; 1. Which side is the INLET for the firewall heater core? I'll try a reverse flush.
2. As I accelerate away from traffic lights, there is a gurgling sound from the heater core area. I've tried bleeding the system many times with no effect.
Regards from Down Under, Al
I honestly don't know which side is the inlet and which is the outlet. When you burped the system, did you have the front end of the truck higher than the rear and did you also have the heater control set to hot? It certainly sounds like you have trapped air in the system.
@TimmyTheToolman Yes to both questions.
I have the same filling system as you and revved it at 2000 for about 20 min. I'll try again this time blipping the throttle. Cheers, Al, Brisbane. LX470
@alanhowarth2801 I've heard of people having difficulty bleeding air from their cooling system, but I've never had that issue. More air always naturally works its way out over the next few days. The fact that yours doesn't do that is concerning. Maybe there is some type of obstruction in your heater core piping.
I did read a comment on the IH8MUD forum when I posted my video there, and this guy said the radiator needed to be topped off to the very top for the reservoir system to work properly and allow the level to expand when hot and retract when cold. So, after you burp the system and drive for a couple days, take the radiator cap off and top off the radiator and maybe check it a few more times to make sure the level is staying all the way to the top. Maybe doing that will solve your issue.
Where are you in San Jose? You guys are local to me.
Near Campbell, close to Bascom and Hamilton.
Good car, look like come from plant yestoday, not rust
Calfornia vehicles last a long time. No salting of the roads.
Those plastic tees become brittle with age after so many thermal cycles
Yes indeed. Using brass tees is a much better way to go.
1st! ;_)
No, no, no Bro! My pinned comment was the first, so I won the prize, which there is no prize for commenting first.