What about comparing different bike builds? New/used entry level bike + component upgrades, but must stay under a certain price point. Different GCN presenters could give their opinions of the best use of $1500, $2000, $2500 to get started in cycling.
Sorry, GCN how many times can you make the same ('samish) video. You're doing it on every subject. Maybe reduce the volume of content and focus on the quality. I am watching less and less GCN because of the deja vu quality I get with many video's. You guys can make amazing video's and have a quality team, but I have to dig through to much fluff to find it nowadays.
Love seeing you cover cheaper bikes. This is the kind of content I would share with someone wanting to start cycling. When I started cycling I could barely wrap my head around spending about $1000 for my first road bike and gear. Videos like this I think would help expand the sport to more people.
We love this comment Joshua! It's great to hear that you are keep to help others into this sport🙌 Can you think on any other videos that you would of liked to see when you started?
I worked in bicycle shops in the 1980's According to the inflation calculator $1,000 today would be equivalent to $357 in 1985. The bicycle I sold around that price range was the Centurion Elite RS which was a particularly nice riding bicycle in its day. A modern $1,000 road bicycle is lighter, more aerodynamic and rolls, shifts and stops a lot better than the old Centurion. The truth is that adjusted for inflation bicycles are a great deal and you can get more bike for your money now than ever before. If you go back to the bike boom 1970's bicycles were very expensive and most of them were junk.
@@jacksonbrucea always nice to hear from the oldest ones 👍 and your thought are good to hear. I'm thinking this sentence may sound inappropriate, but I'm French and maybe I don't always use "correct" English. Just think about kindness in my message. Keep riding 😎
Great to see GCN testing entry level bikes. Please do more comparisons of existing entry level bikes from all manufacturers and suggest some modifications which can be done on these entry level bikes so it feels and works great.
Agreed, and it was pleasing to see how positive he was about the triban. It’s easy to become spoilt by high end equipment but the reality is even reasonable entry level bikes today are very good. Triban, pinnacle and vitus all offer excellent bikes, and further up their ranges, some excellent options.
As they have always said, the biggest upgrade anyone can make is tyres.... all bikes feel better and perform better with quality tyres. After that, it's wheels, but you need to love bike to spend that dosh
Check out Frances Cade (Cade Media now) he did an entry level SCOTT not so long ago , an enlightenment for people that don't know that they don't need to buy top of the range unless they are racing for seconds ! Still nice to have the shiniest bike though
There's not much to say on the matter. All these bikes run the same entry microshift components and there's not much difference in the tires/wheels. So, just like they've said now in I-lost-count-how-many videos, upgrade the tires. Then wheels if you want. After that, its not worth it because upgrading the drivetrain (at least until maybe when Shimano CUES is released for road) requires a complete overhall and its more economical just to upgrade the whole bike. There, I've given you the upgrade path for every entry bike. Conversation closed.
Appreciate GCN not using the Eurobike here. The eurobike isn't a true entry level road bike and comparing it with, well, just about anything isn't all that interesting
Euro bike is like if you told target to make a road bike that they would sell for $300, then you sent that design off to a novelty trinket store one might find in an airport, and then tell them to cost it down so they can sell it for $300.
I literally commented ages ago that the euro bike should be finished now and poking fun at it has ran its course... It was on the 'Cheap Bike Pro Rider Vs Super Bike Amateur Rider - Climb Edition!' I am glad they are using a proper entry level bike!
PLEASE make a video of the cheap bike as it is in this video v's top tyre upgrade. Because let's face it, as entertaining as this video was, not many of us are in the market for a custom built retro bike, however many people would be interested in how fast a budget bike could go with a simple tyre upgrade.
How about trying “classic frame new components”? Most of the criticisms related to things like gears, wheels and brakes - how does this frame ride with updated components and wheels?
I’d rather they compared a modern steel frame vs CF frame of equivalent cost with identical or nearly so modern components. In particular I’d like to see them compare a steel bike frame made with Columbus Spirit HSS hydroformed into aero tubes. An XCr frame comparison would be cool too. I’d like to see how modern steel alloy frames compare to a CF bike of equal cost.
Idea for a video series: Each presenter buys a bike for £1000. Then they do a series of rides. A group century. An epic climb. A Gravel ride. A competitive fondo. Between each ride they make upgrades to the bike on a budget. Objective isn’t necessarily to come in first, but to see what bikes and upgrades people made and how they affected their enjoyment of the ride.
that would be cool. Unfortunately one annoying thing is that particularly small men and women can get pretty sweet deals. if you are 180cm bikes can be pretty expensive second hand. If you ride a size S or XS frame you can get some rediculous deals as noone buys such small bikes. Same goes for oversized bikes....
@@kingprone7846 I beg to differ. „Oversized“ bikes, as I would call anything above 61 based on the availability (new as well as second-hand), usually come in either underspecced (and far too expensive for the components) or in race specs, costing € 4000. Hardly a good deal in between. When I change the search filters to smaller frames, especially on second-hand websites - boom, reasonable prices. I guess the market knows that bigger bikes aren‘t produced in the numbers standard-sized ones are and that us tall people really have no choice.
Great to see GCN using Triban as the entry level bike, my first road bike was a Btwin triban, absolute bargain and loved it, for those of us with a limited budget, fantastic bike to own
@@gcn did my first over 30 mile ride and a charity ride to Foulness, an MOD site, really cemented my cycling "bug" now have a Trek road bike "Dave" who is the 2nd love of my life :) :)
@@gcn good enough to get your toes wet, train low intensity, Ride your First Century, Fall over with Flippers Pedals, Sprint above 50kph for the First time, get dropped by a group that is a wee Bit too fast and lose 10kg while doing so.
@@gcn One of my favorite bikes is a 1980s Reynolds 531 lugged steel Falcon frameset, built up with modern 10s Campy components, including a Euros tubular wheelset. But I kept some more retro features like rim brakes, Selle Italia saddle, and a quill stem. It's a blast to ride, and gets a lot of attention.
@@auh2o64 Likewise , one of my favourites is a 1984 Raleigh Road Ace, 531 C but only the main triangle is original. 10 speed Chorus, Profile AC full carbon fork ( 1 inch Steerer) . 3 T bars. Campy Neutron wheels, re finished frame and gets attention at the cafe stops...and still a great ride.
You can't ride a vintage bike? Baloney. I do it every day. GCN has run multiple "how bad was vintage biking" with dried out tires, dried out brake pads and then tells people that old bikes don't work. Take a decent vintage bike and make sure the consumables bits are in good condition and a vintage bike will work just fine. For most people the bike is not holding them back... their legs just aren't strong enough..
Ebay sells replacement fresh rubber brake pads for Campy Super Record calipers. Slide out the dried out rubber and put the new one in and my MAVIC Open pro rims were singing!!!
I cannot agree with you more. I've been wondering if they're afraid to offend their advertisers by the comparison. The comfort and feel of classic steel or titanium, with or without a carbon fork, is way better than carbon or aluminum frames
My go to bike is a vintage gilko framed simonsinni road bike,I've Owned betwins they were OK, I have even owned a carbon framed wonder bike which was more uncomfortable than a Horse hair mattress! And didn't Last long in my ownership, I Agree down tube shifting was a Phaff but if you grew up with them They weren't a problem bikes today are too Complicated and Genraly pretty ugly and extremely Exspensive to maintain. The riders of the 70s/80s had more class generally ,hills have Only got easier today due to the Gearing on new bikes back in the day we could still spin them,as they say ican still remember spinning 60/66 up biggish hills In the 80s. If the brake hoods were good Enough for the likes of Mr merkx Rodger develmick and Lucian van Imp back in the day they are good enough for me today,yes bikes And cycling has improved over The years but steel is real and A lot more comfortable
I think the biggest revelation of this video is that a custom-made steel frame made from modern tubes combined with a high-quality modern mid-tier group may be everyone's "go-to" bike. The classic appearance, ease of maintenance, reasonable price, practical functionality, the weight is not heavy as you thought an "old school" steel frame bike should have, and, most importantly, the size and geometry are made for you. Who would resist such an all-rounder?
Yep, and if you do this yourself, you don't have to put the downtube shifters on, or the small cassette with only a few gears. They only did this in this video to keep it historically accurate, but nothing is stopping you from putting modern shifters and gears on.
IMO aluminum frames took over because they're cheaper to mass produce, not because they perform better. You can get vintage road bikes used for $100-$300 and upgrade the components you don't like, spending a lot less than you would on a modern entry-level road bike in the process. Definitely easier for a novice cyclist with zero maintenance experience to just buy the modern road bike and get riding, however.
I 100% agree, tyres are the upgrade to go for. My first road bike was Triban RC500 (Sora groupset) and the stock tyres the bike came on were awful. Just swapping the tyres for something a bit more nice (Ultra Sport III) completely transformed the bike. At the same effort I could ride longer and futher with much more confidence.
My first 'proper' road bike is a Vitus Razor 2022, one of the things that impressed me was the Kenda tyres. While there is plenty of room to upgrade (I'm thinking Pirelli P Zero) for an entry level bike I was pleased to find the tyres weren't awful, but they will be the first upgrade.
It must be said those Continentals are ridiculously good. They're fast, comfortable, dependable - and all that for not too much money. I like them a lot.
@Phil'O's Garage Snap, been into MTB for years. Just got a Vitus Razor last week and love it. Fast, comfortable and fun without breaking the bank... what's not to love??
@MVM Continental has 2 kinds of bike road tires, one made in Germany and the other cheaper ones made somewhere else - I only use the Grand Prix tires with made-in-Germany only Black Chili compound. Ride safe...
I've got the exact same Triban to use for both commuting and a bit of weekend rides and I'm pleased to hear it actually received some good feedback! I agree tyres are a major point to upgrade, one of my dear cycling friends always says that, no matter how expensive your frame, wheel or components are, the only patch of contact you get with the ground comes from the tyres!
@@gcn 100%! I've changed a few sets in the couple of years, going for 30 or 32 also seemed a good compromise for comfort. I've read some people managed to convert this Triban RC120 to a more gravel set up and fit 38s as well.
@@The_Italian_Job So many people did it with good results they actually sell it as a gravel bike now too, with tubeless ready wheels and Hutchinson Overide 700x38.
I would add tubes as well because they contact the tires. I am not saying that everyone needs latex inner tubes, but the benefits to rolling resistance are enough to improve performance and make a commute feel easier.
Hi there. I buyed the Triban 120 RC in pale grey colour arround 15 months ago and converted it into a gravel bike straight away. I put 38c tyres on it and immediately changed Crankset because I think that for gravel and offroad climbs you have to have minimum 46 30 Crankset. I drove and changed many different road bikes in last 9 years and from my experience Triban rc 120 is a lot of bicycle for such a small money. Yes, changing tyres is a good idea and maybe the Wheels as well. Buying a pair of for example cheap Aksium Disc Wheels would cut another 400gr from the bike and better tyres almost also 400. The only "problem" that i found with Triban is that jumps between gears on such a large cassette with only 8 speed is to much for me. I would just change cassette for maybe 12 30 and there you got it. With some minor changes a perfect, comfortable beginners bicycle, or winter bike, commuter, training bike, etc...
With respect to the hoods and shifter positioning. We rode a lot more on the drops back then. It was easier to get to the down tube shifters from that position and just somehow more comfortable.
@@gregmuon You can’t shift sprockets and rings with just one hand with brifters. I also developed the cunning “technique” of pushing the sprocket lever with my knee if an emergency upshift was needed after say cresting a hill.... sure I’m not the only one.
Never, ever underestimate the greatness of a vintage super bike. A fairly well trained, capable rider on one can kill the ego of everyone on a group ride. Slightly more modern upgrades, like STI levers, better brakes, and a 9/10 speed drivetrain really unlock their potential.
I was in a B group ride. One day a retired Navy SEAL showed up on a mountain bike and left with the A group of very fast men. When our B group returned. We learned that the retired SEAL had come back in with the A group. I've never seen anything like that before or since.
As someone with both vintage and modern bikes I love these videos, the riding enjoyment is very different between vintage and modern, but both are very enjoyable
As someone who rode,raced, and toured on friction shifters and rim brakes it always amazes me how "we couldn't stop, or shift"! That's the way it was! Clipless pedals and moving shifters to the handlebars, two great improvements! For most of us, aero, and frame materials are just something to talk about. Cruising along at 16-18 mph, 26-29 kph the benefits of these technologies are just "lost". Position, tire choice, and saddle choices, that will determine ones comfort on the bike. My days of keeping up with Si are over. I hope his passion, and memories of "time on the bike" equal or exceed mine at 64. Si is always an enthusiastic presenter and a great cyclist in his own right. This was a great segment!
I have several bikes and the analog "friction" shifters are hands down my fav. Once you are used to it, you know exactly how much to move the lever for a clean shift. And they require zero maintenance, never regulation issues ( a gear that doesn't want to go up or down etc) . zero bullshit. I wish I could find more quality modern analog shifters.
@@zaub1 I can shift downtube friction shifters well, they are totally great on a nice day on a quiet road. However, I'm so happy I've switched my bike over to some rsx sti's (period correct for my late 90s steel frame anyway), the ability to easily downshift while braking and maneuvering is totally worth having to twist the adjuster a quarter turn or so every few months. Which is about the interval the downtube shifters needed a retighten to have the right amount of friction...
I raced in college 35 years ago. Life got in the way and I took up riding again 4 years ago but I occasionally still reach for the downtube to shift. I do like DI2 but Si you haven't riding friction shifters enough to appreciate them. The shifts were like an extension of one's arm and it was never out of adjustment.
I’m not at all surprised that a state-of-the-art bike world tour bike from 50 years ago beat an entry-level modern bike. I bought a 1984 vintage Italian race bike from Berlin’s Steel Vintage Bike website, and I swear it feels faster than my modern carbon cx bike. Geezers unite!
That 1976 bike had super record componentry, not record as Si was riding on his 1969 TDF superbike. The 1969 price was probably about £400 with campy brakes (£50).
@@dgillies5420 to be honest, I don’t know the actual spec. But given that £1050 in ‘76 was the equivalent around £9k today, I would like to think it had the top spec.
These RPI comparisons make no sense - yes £9K among a basket of goods but housing was so much cheaper. You could get a house for £10k in 1976 and that’s where the majority of most people’s salary goes.
@@greennoodle69 I think any comparison with houses would be confusing. It would be like a supermarket saying that fruit and veg is falling in price, if compared to house values, when the real time cost of groceries is clearly rising at the fastest rate ever recorded. Far better to compare the cost of bikes in relation to earnings, rather than pick a comparison denominator that, through significant changes in the supply ? demand ratio (like housing for instance) bears little relation to the cost of bicycles. Certainly most inflation calculations are based on the consumer price index, rather than any other index.
@@joules531consumer price index makes more sense. Earnings are well related to markets expectations on how the country is doing overall. Price index is a more approachable proxy for keeping purchase power stored through time, the storing value of money.
I firmly believe that the numbers speak for themselves. I would always go with the lugged steel road bike every day for commuting or flat roads. The only reason I'd go for the new bike is if I had to climb long hills every day. The white "so called" Eddy Merckx just looks so much better too. In many US cities at least, you'd always get more street cred on the Merckx than you would on the new bike. Thanks.
What amazes me is the gears that used to be pushed even into the early 2000s. My first road bike was a steel Peugeot with 52/42 chains set and 14/25 cassette (7spd!) Now I’m riding 50/34 - 12/32 11 sod. Can’t believe how I managed some of the more challenging hills tackled today. Mind you I was 20 odd years younger!
In the summer of 1995, I did a one month long bike tour though southern Germany in Austria. My bike had a Shimano 2 × 7. I don't remember the exact gearing on the cassette, but I know that my easiest gear was 39×28!
With those Granny Gears, you were either a Touring or a Recreational Cyclist thirty years ago. Campagnolo's Single Parallelogram Rear Mech/Derailleur could only accommodate a 25 tooth Maximum. 39 and 41 tooth Inner Chainrings only came available during the Late 1980's. Climbers and GC contenders knew they had to have the Legs to get over the Mountains.
I have my 86 LOOK Bernard Hinault I got for high school graduation in 1988. Basicly Gregs replica. I raced it til 1990 then left cycling for hockey for 30 yrs. I dusted it off and started riding again in 2010 30 yrs older and weighing 100 lbs more( 250) than I did in my racing days. That LOOK got me back in shape and it was only 3 yrs ago I got a modern bike. Now my LOOK gets an occasional ice cream ride and it is SO uncomfortable compared to my new bike. But that was ALL I knew! These 53 yr old bones appreciate the level of comfort. Gears, brakehoods, saddles, low pressure 28mm tubeless has made my rides no pain all gain. Great vid Si
Having both modern and "older" bikes, they both have advantages and disadvantages, Personally, I really like my Carlton Pro Mk5 (1983 f531 frame), runnign 9-spd Campag ergo groupset. Gives the comfort and rideability and straight out friendliness of a good steel frame, with the convenience and friendliness of "proper gears". In fact I liked it so much, I built a Carlton Clubman to the same spec to take mudguards etc for commuting. Not as tight and fast as the Pro, but a good solid comfy ride on a 20mile commute. Both the Carltons run 3x9 groupsets. PLenty of gears, big and small.
From someone who had the RC120 the worst part of the bike is the bottom bracket and the tourney crankset. When I changed it for a tiagra BB with a tiagra crankset it was like I had a new bike It just rolled more freely and smoothly. A nice and worthy upgrade also where the wheels.
Not sure we would get many takers for a retro Roubaix at the office 😆 That is one tough race! We've got this great video of classic vs modern over the cobbles of Flanders 👉 ua-cam.com/video/aubcNAX45NM/v-deo.html
Okay, wow!! Total not expected that result. I love these videos comparing different Era bikes. I have a 1974 ventage Nishiki, and Simon's description of the handle was spot on. With that said, riding an old well maintained bike is still wonderfully fun.
Interesting thanks for the video. I once had a bike with downtube shifters without indexes, I used it to get around town and I would say that when used regularly the system becomes quite easy, reflexive. There's even something nice about the lack of indexing (no click to change gears). When you're used to it, you can find the exact gear, no more being slightly off as with indexing (for someone who doesn't always keep their bike in tip top tuning).
It's like a car with manual transmission vs paddle shifter (usually in combination with an automatic transmission or automated manual like dual-clutch - PDK, DSG, S-Tronic etc.), of course because of the other gearbox these are faster but if you're routined you can also shift a manual very quickly, I can shift up that way by just slightly tapping the clutch pedal and ease the throttle/accelerator for that moment and push the gear knob into the next gear.
Fabulous comparison. I am in my 70s and have health problems so I ride an ebike mostly. But I still love my 50-year-old Falcon with Campy gears and shifters. I did upgrade to 700C from 27x1.
Can’t wait for my boy to grow into his little Triban 3 so he can kick my butt on my vintage french bike. So torn between keeping the simple crisp (indexed) downtube shifters and putting on a modern shimano 11 speed group set. 7 on the back does often find you hunting for a comfy cadence I have to say. Simon is so right though, geometry, determined by the shape of the human, hasn’t changed much in 30 or 50 years, so old frames certainly can romp up a climb.
I did an epic front wheel flip once, when I shifted on the lower tube with a tennis racket in my right hand. In Paris I still see many people commuting with old bikes like that. I perfectly remember how there is no index, but if you remember, first shifters on the bars didn't have Index at first either.
My first road bike was one that I got as a high school graduation gift and was an Eddy Merckx that looked exactly like that frame. Ahh, the memories. I even put Veloflex tires on it, too.
Nice! I'm not surprised by the result - skinny tubulars are indeed really fast. The hoods on old bikes though, are horrible untill early 90s. But the real problem was in bars shape - hands just slide down onto hoods that is painful. Still I'm waiting for a comparison of top 90s and early 2000s racing bikes, cause from my own experience these tend to be real good with tight geometry and compatible with modern groupsets. Also going 1" threadless helps a lot to accomodate new bars&stem and gain a ton of stiffness.
So first off I'd like to say great job to Si for a very nice video, Now I'll translate what Si was saying. " If you raced on the vintage technology your skill level and toughness had to be at a higher level because you had to be more precise shifting, braking, climbing in or out of the saddle because of gearing or lack of!!" As far as the hoods we didn't seem to have a problem with them. Shifting you just got used to how far to throw the lever, I shifted both front and rear at the same time when needed not a big deal. A lot more talent is needed to ride a vintage bike and get the most out of it.
I learned to ride with downtube shifters in the ‘80s. Shifting becomes second nature. Kinda like learning to type. Eventually, you just shift without thinking about it.
I have downtube shifters on my 1987 renyolds 531 and they are ok but the downside is that they are a nightmare to fix and the left lever will tend to have the most problems
@@AngusNolanAddison I have never needed to repair a downtube shifter and I have used them for 50 years. I am using a 35 year old set now. I don't understand what would make them "a nightmare" to fix, as they are very simple and very accessible, unlike a modern integrated shifter - which I have seen break and was not repairable.
@@notmyrealname007update i got them fixed it’s usually when they’re not lubricated for over 30 years it was in the roof of my dad’s garage for 18 years and when i rode it for the first time the downtube shifters had needed a major repair due to the shifter failing to move the chain on the gears and the chain kept on going back to third and most strange of all the shifters were working backwards!😂 in the end i fixed the problem and it rides like just like a new bike. Mine are the original zeus Shifters not the click ones on later renyolds meaning you can just shift from 1st to 5th with a single push of the lever it’s why i like older race bikes!
I love my old Tommasini vintage bike with Campagnolo and Simplex now 38 years old and my now 12 year old Ridley with FSA and Shimano - I agree totally with your comments! They are different experiences - I would urge young cyclists to give a vintage bike a try just for short fun rides !
Agreed; the vintage bike only has a chance of being competitive in a time-trial on flats where you aren't shifting very much, or on a steep uphill where the lighter weight of the vintage bike (in this particular case) would be an advantage. When I watch the tour-de-france lately - it must now be photographed by helicopters to keep up (at 30-40 mph all the time) - I just don't want to ride THAT FAST so there's something to be said about vintage bikes !!
Fun vid. I started with a decent small frame builder Reynolds/Campy bike back in 1972 - Colin Cape, handed down to me by my older brother. I remember all those beautiful bikes from back then. Rode a series of steel frames till I went over to mountain biking back in the 90's. I've been riding a little road lately, but with a three level cervical fusion, I have to have a way more upright position, so it's an old but sweet Specialized Allez steel I picked up for a song and converted to a townie. My brother (RIP) was a more serious roadie, and he kept his early Paramount from all those years back. I have that bike now, a faded but still pretty relic.
Or go for a '90s bike. Even 8-speed Campag and Shimano is a massive step up. My favourite bike (I have many to choose from) is a '90s Merckx with Record 8-speed ergos and 2nd-generation Shamals. Not the fastest, but smooth and comfortable and utterly beautiful.
Once you're used to downtube shifters, they're perfectly adequate. You can drop all the way from smallest to biggest cog in one sweep if you want to. I love the direct feel of them.
@Rek Dem I bought my present MAIN bike in 1996. It came with a 7 speed cassette and STI brifters. I fitted down tube shifters , friction mode, about 15 years ago, when I got fed up with cables going after 4,000 miles or so. Its now usually got a 9 speed cassette on it. I recently fitted most of a 1990s 105 groupset to another bike. Beautiful stuff.
You can drop an entire cassette with one sweep with Campagnolo Record 10 speed. Taking your hands off the bar to change gears isn't exactly ideal. I used downtube shifters for years; pain in the back changing the front derailleur whilst climbing a hill.
On down tube shifting I think it’s all what you are used to. All my bikes, but one are down tube friction shift. I think it’s easy because I am used to it. Just my opinion. Also I don’t race. Ergo shifting is nice, but when the indexing gets off it’s a pain.
This was a fascinating video for me, I have an old Peugeot I have transformed a Neo-retro build with full 105 catalog (groupo, brakes, pedals) and modern rims, stem, saddle and carbon bars.... and I actually made it slower from it's original spec. One of my fastest times over 15km still stands in the original spec, however all the upgrades have made it a pleasure to ride.
I'm with you on the wheels, and shifting on vintage bikes. Just completed my project on my I think early 90s bianchi repetro course, changed out the bars and put dual control levers on and tubeless rim brakes wheels with some maxxis refuse tires and I have to say that bike is a beast now
@@davidd166 The "Columbus" sticker should be on the seat tube. It will say Columbus Nivachrome with either SLX, TSX, SL, EL, EL (oversized)... in big font. The EL non oversized had a rider weight limit.
Bar end shifters were a thing 50 years ago, José Manuel Fuente was using them against Merckx in '73. They do give a slight weight penalty but they're much nicer to use over the downtube shifters. I'm surprised they weren't more popular early on.
I could imagine bar end shifters might a problem when your enemy wants to accidentally brush past you and knock the shifter. They do ride very close together in the bunch and it would be a shame of your competitor suddenly was in the wrong gear at a critical moment.
The Campagnolo Super Record wasn't a very precise derailleur in the first place. Then add the spongey shift housing and short levers ...well it got worse...advantage goes to being shorter and not having to reach between the knees. The Suntour ratchet bar ends were the best , but not many pro teams used Suntour. Those down tube Suntour Power Shifters with the ratchet mechanism were also superior. Both of these with modern shift housing and cables work pretty nice with modern cassette cogs. When Shimano introduced the hyperglide shift system it was a big improvement and paved the way to the handle bar shift levers.
Si looks sharp on the Mercx! I think the next step, would be to get a vintage road bike and modernize it, spacing out the rear dropouts for modern wheelset, budget friendly groupsets and carbon fork, do all that and actually compete with that setup!!
I love Si videos having someone closer to my age makes gcn more palatable. Perhaps some videos with presenters in 50's, 60's, 70's ... I think would make for interesting videos...
Had the triban for almost a year. Main downside of RC120 for me is the integrated derailleur hanger which puts you in fear of trashing the entire frame in case of a crash or derailleur being hit by something, it also puts you off any big upgrades besides tires for the same reason. Another downside is the rim brake version being phased out which forces you to mechanical discs (hence the almost 11Kg weight). Apart from that, it makes for a good basic touring/ gravel/ commuting/ distance riding bike due to practical gearing and comfortable position. Strongly advise upgrading the tires, since i've put on 32mm Ultrasports the ride quality feels completely different from the crappy stock ones.
100% with you, plus I wouldn't wish onto my worst enemy to have to change a tube due to a flat while on a ride. The stock tires were some of the toughest ones I've ever had to put back. I'm glad I had a spare tube because the first one I put in got punctured while I was trying to put the tyre back on the rim.
I have a 91/92 Eddy Merckx Team Motorola Corsa Extra. It has indexed down tube shifting. It's made out of Columbus Nivachrome Steel that gives a very nice ride. I don't know what that metal does with road shock, but I know it doesn't send it up to my spine. Back then that frame was about $1800. Still a beautiful bike. I haven't been able to ride that bike in several years, thanks for the vid. It brings back memories, good one.
My very first hand-me-down bike was steel, downtube shifters a lot like this. It never really wanted to shift front so you just stuck with it. Breaking downhill was a joke. I loved that thing.
Fun test, although the result wasn't surprising once I saw the VeloFlex Record tires on the Merckx. I'm glad that Si didn't ride old tires since that's dangerous, but you were basically comparing tires. Tire technology has come a huge way since 1969 and the Veloflex record will be miles ahead (and probably 30 watts faster) than the original tires on the old bike. Clearly we need another video with some basic decent road tires on the Triban! Perhaps the Conti UltraSport III! Loving these comparison videos. And Si seems to be having a great time!
Very nice video. Glad you picked that Triban rather than the Eurobike. One point though, the Triban, has been designed by Decathlon to be a bike comfortable for entry level, so the geometry is deliberately more relaxed so will feel more comfortable. That said, I’m not surprised the 50 year old design is faster. Thin steel tubes are still pretty light and can produce a responsive bike. That gearing though 😅. Well done for getting such a good time up that 20% gradient on a 42: 23 ratio, Si!
If I'm not wrong it's the same frame as there entry gravel bike, so it's quite an adaptable thing as well. I'm kind of tempted to pick one up. As my cyclo-cross bike just isn't fitting me to well
Awesome video Si. Since I'm older than the replica bike and I remember down tube shifters,(no tankx), I'll be sticking with my 2022 Atheos thankyouverymuch.
The nice thing about being able to work on my own bike is that, not only could I upgrade the tires to make an entry level bike faster, but I could upgrade the handlebars and shifters on a vintage race bike to bring it up to speed with todays. I am surprised that the steel frame bike was the lighter of the two. Thanks for the video.
Not at all surprised. The AL-frame might not be lighter but a lot stiffer. Additional weight from the cheap disc brakes vs. rim brakes and wider tyres plus iner tubes.
Nice work Simon . Welcome to my world. I believe my bikes came with 52/42 and 13-26 and that's it. Cycling was tough, and it's all we had, so we were just tough. I still ride my vintage bikes, but , they have been upgraded to 25mm tires and Tiagra 10 speed SIS system. One bike is moded with 48/30 and 11-36 . And yes, at age 76, I can still climb some of those hills from my 30's. KB
As someone who has ridden for close to 60 years, and has gone from lugged steel frames, down-tube non-indexed shifting, etc. to modern carbon with all the modern fixings (except I still like rim brakes), I can attest to overall improvements of speed, comfort, handling, etc. that come with modern bikes. What is missing though (at least for me), is a sense of true connection with the bike. I can ride my 2016 Fuji SL all day and not feel beat-up, but it is soul-less. On the other hand, while it sits in the garage looking sad, my '70's-ish Holdsworth 720 Reynolds (and my long gone older French and English bikes) bring back memories of a more heightened riding experience. I was more conscious and aware of when I needed to shift, brake, turn, etc. Even having to stay more focused on my riding position. And while the older bikes required more regular maintenance, that too brought an increased sense of connection by knowing how to make the slightest changes in cable tension or brake spacing, or when to swap rear cogs (I still have two, an 11-25 and a 13-28, both 5 speed) to adapt to a given ride. So not to wax too nostalgic, the bottom line is that it isn't that older or newer is better, just different. Whatever you have, just ride..
Those Triban's really take some beating at the price point. A few years ago I wanted a "proper" but cheap road bike to do a daily commute on and really all things considered (even used bikes) these where the only viable option. Never happened because of Covid but nothing else even came close to fitting the bill.
Absolutely agree. Having a entry level bike with modern Claris 2x8 or Sora 2x9 gearing makes many fun. It's just enough for riding, doing some exercises or bike packing. (No cables for the front roll pack). And remember, you are Not in tour de France. There is Nobody counting your times and laps.
I also have the rc120, and those tires are awful. Rock hard and gave no feeling of security. Even swapping them out with the cheap Goodyears gave me 5km/h on average on the flats, and much more grip. I am sure some lighter inner tubes will also do some wonders. I would really like to see a test on this cheap bike, comparing different cheap upgrades, like tires, tubes and narrower handlebars.
Great to hear from someone who has experience with the bike! Ollie did this video with GCN Tech 👉ua-cam.com/video/zW2AlSWJekc/v-deo.html He took an entry level road bike from Canyon and did some great initial upgrades.
Definitely one of the things I’ve noticed about my older Dawes sport bike is the indexing on the levers for the gears is nice vs none and you always want a gear inbetween what you got
Definitely want to see the Triban retested, same setup and then with fast tubeless tires. If the current wheels aren’t tubeless compatible, swap them but use the same wheel in both tests.
I have the Triban. It is not really a good bike out of the box. But after upgrading the wheels and drive train I'm very happy with it. It won't win races, but I'm not a racer so that's perfectly fine for me.
I watch these videos and as someone who rides a bicycle every day but without wearing special clothes to do it I really enjoy the comparisons. I used to ride what we called 'racing bikes' in the 80's and 90's and was mostly pretty crap at it. However having ridden modern 'road bikes' I feel they've become too specialised, uncomfortable and exclusive. Unless you're competing why would you care about times and power outputs? The joy of cycling lies in freedom and enjoyment of the machine. The exact reason that a vintage 911 with a stick shift is more rewarding than a modern 911 with an auto transmission, ABS, electric power steering and all fun removed linking human to machine.
Air cooled 911>Water cooled 911 any day of the week. I ride my C-Record 56/42 13-18 block Saronni red Colnago Super at my club rides against 15lb. or so modern Asian carbon bikes. A 56 chainring and laying off pizza and ice cream helps tremendously btw. I turn 50 this year and staying in a paceline with 20 somethings keeps me smiling.
100% this I think 'prommuters' have put so many people off cycling to work. Wearing full kit for under 15km of riding is ridiculous to me. I've riden 250km a week for 8 years on a steel Single Speed and love it. And I've never owned any lycra 😅
This was a great comparison. This test goes to show that we can buy a bike as good, if not better than the pros of years gone by. It also proves, that we should spend more time in the saddle and less time in the showroom buying the latest and greatest kit lol.
I have a Schwinn Continental, circa 1973, that I still ride. The gearshift levers are on the stem at handlebar height, and I replaced the tape on the handlebars with a foam grip. Still my favorite bike and it's' fun to ride.
When I saw the title I thought, this will be some great eurobike content, but this was even better. Just having sti shifters and dual pivot brakes (I don't know about disc brakes) make a huge difference, and will trasport any retro bike into the modern era.
Fascinating comparison. I was watching a time trial during the 1960 Tour de France, from my bike very similar to the Merckx, and obviously very familiar with down tube shifters, and I've never forgotten watching a pro changing gear for a change of gradient. His hand just flashed down and up like a snake striking and he never took his eyes off the road ahead. Right gear instantly. I still have a bike with down tube shifters and as you said, sometimes you can't be bothered to change gear - wrong cadence.
Cyclists had more skill back in the day to counter the mechanical difficulties inherent with their technologies. Change of gradient, get up off your bum and start rocking, grab a lower gear right before sitting back down and trim off the rubbing before losing too much pace, we all did it that way.
Hello, Nice too see that triban bikes are very capable. To better cope with rythm changes, the triban would be better with new wheels as theses ones weigh more than 2 kilos ! In France the triban Gravel model sells very well too
Don't forget that you can still upgrade the components of a steel framed bike and it will outlast the aluminium framed bike which will be landfill/recycled in 10 year's time due to metal fatigue.
One thing you didn’t point out was that compared to the Merckx the tribal has aero elements to its design with the shaped downtube, v-section rims and concealed cables at the bars but this didn’t appear to create an advantage on the road. When riding with mates on their carbon bikes I don’t feel at a disadvantage on my old school Colnago but then I’m not competing at the highest level or seeking marginal gains. I’m just riding fast and in comfort and enjoying being out.
I was expecting to hear a phone call to the Merckx builders saying he broke it! Thankfully not, a good video and enjoyed watching and it reminded me of my starter bikes in the late 1970's early 80's with downshifters! I seem to remember having to plan gear changes a bit in advance so no fumbling for the levers when the scenery went vertical! Muscle memory helped and with practice changes could be made fairly accurately. Same today to an extent, but its much easier to change under load without compromising or hitting the jewels on the top tube when it went wrong! When indexed down tube levers came in things changed for the better 😂
I often dabble with the idea of buying a steel frame and mounting contemporary components on it - sort of Battaglin's or Tommasini's way, but preferably with less expensive parts. It could be the best of both worlds.
I have a 95 Bianchi TSX that I used to race with Campy 8 speed Chorus. It sat for 15 years after I changed to a better race bike. five or so years ago, I tore it down and slapped on some old 7700 components that I had.
This is what I did. I had an old bike with an aluminium frame which I didn't trust so I ditched it for an even older steel frame from 1986, spread the rear triangle, added a long arm derailleur, cobbled together a custom cassette that goes up 36 tooth, subcompact chainset, old shimano brake/shifter, SPD clipless pedals. I ended up with a very comfortable and fast bike that cost very little money and still able to climb steep hills. Most of the parts I scrounged from reuse shops, ebay, and aliexpress. Don't believe the hype that expensive components are necessary.
what i want to see is, you take a retro frame built to accept a modern group set, gears breaks, di2, tires, the works, and see how close a retro steel frame could be, performance wise, to a modern super-bike. with environmental concern about building carbon fiber bikes, and steel being far more eco-friendly, it would be a worthwhile test.
just finished restoring a vintage steel race bike with friction dt shifters. Your comment about not wanting to shift is spotv on. the amount of energy to reach down, bslsnce, execute the shift and come back adds up. Its like riding 12 different singlespeeds.
I would expect a small advantage for the Merckx in the hub and BB bearings. Campy bearings have always been magically smooth, while the chinese hubs tgat come on most modern inexpensive bikes are tight and crunchy. If you guys took the time to open the hubs up and lube and properly adjust the bearings, it might close this gap a bit. I can only guess at the actual size (in W) of this advantage... 10W?
I doubt it is even that great, there is so much leverage working against the bearings in both the wheels and the crank that the actual impact of any difference is bound to be slight. I've repaired bikes that you couldn't turn an axle or spindle by hand, while the owner couldn't even tell there was anything amiss. I think the choice of grease would likely make a bigger difference than bearing quality.
Every cup and cone hub I have ever used came tight from the factory, not just cheap Chinese ones. The Shimanos I build wheels from all need a proper adjustment after laceup so they don't destroy themselves. But the wattage loss there is minimal, and not even quantifiable compared to the difference owed to a 1kg weight difference or cheap tires vs. sewups.
@@jbarner13 That still absolutely counts for a couple of watts, and that was friction with no load. With 50kg of weight pushing down and 200 watts of power pulling forward bearings do make a difference. People who ride bikes with axles that can't be turned by hand and don't notice are by definition not good judges of proper bike function.
@@krisjones74 You just keep telling yourself that. Seriously, though, I recall working with a guy who prided himself in his ability to get a "perfect" adjustment with a Campy Record hub, until one day we showed him that he needed to adjust the hub so it was correct AFTER clamping down the QR. Even that amount is not a difference the rider would ever notice, though it might be possible to measure. He certainly didn't comment on how much faster his bike seemed to be after he changed his adjustment technique--probably because he couldn't tell the difference.
Fascinating vid thanks for making. About tube shifters - having had them for about 20 years including overlapping with indexed handlebar ones, I think the lack of indexing is a red herring. Moving your hand away from the brakes is a bigger issue IME. Not to mention getting stabbed in the knee if you come off unlucky (happened to me, needed stitches). BUT overall you can manage fine with them. Also, encourages you to plan your shifts ahead of time, not just reacting. No bad thing.
The times were better on the lugged steel frame because of a tighter modulus of elasticity. Stretching out puts more weight on the handlebars, plants the front wheel on the ground, increases control without bouncing the bike back and forth , thus speed. You also looked like you were climbing in the same cadences, mentioning you had a couple of gears lower than what you were climbing on on the modern bike. IOW, 42-23 was faster than 39-28 or whatever lower gears. The steel bike climbs better because it springs back energy, whereas the aluminum rig steals energy on every stroke. So basically, the lugged steel Columbus frame is superior to it's cheap aluminum counterpart, and at mile 85, probably more comfortable. 32 spoked wheels are stiffer and deliver power to the road more efficiently and climb better than those cheaper wheels on the modern bike. Down tube friction shifters are a piece of cake once you learn how to work them. The short cable run makes shifting very responsive. When the cable frays at the shifter, it's very easy to replace. The levers never wear out.
Some great insight here Paul! Sounds like a you are a steel bike lover! Have you got any nice retro bikes or are you rocking a modern steel rig? 👀 The Triban is a great option for those that are looking for an affordable bike for day to day life, the retro build is a real collectors item that can still hold it's own 🙌
@@gcn Well, I bought a DeRosa, SL, SLX seat tube, when Gita started importing his frames in '84, all Campy Super Record, the obvious best option back then, the same model Eddy Merckx rode at the end of his racing career. I' paid $1400 for it assembled by the local bike shop, rode it 75,000 miles, never looked back, and still have it, never feeling the urge to "upgrade" to aluminum or carbon. Your tests reveal the truth! Built up another custom frame, SL, SLX, SP, a year later with fenders, rack, and 28mm tires, Campy Record components, also ridden about 75,000 miles, mostly commuting. The DeRosa was always the long distance adventure bike. Flat fork crowns are amazing shock absorbers. Haven't "raced" in years, so the 22-24 pound weights are not a handicap. 36 spoke wheels are bulletproof. I've maintained the bikes fully with a small collection of tools Campy made in the '80s. No proprietary parts, all still available, including cup and cone threaded bottom brackets and 6 speed freewheels. How many gears do you need? Both bikes are great examples of Grant Peterson's "manual bikes." Steel is real. Your example is a work of art! It stole the show!
Also consider, the Triban can be fitted with racks, wider tires for gravel, swap cassettes for range or closer spacing, mud guards....you can the same bike for many types of rides. The same cannot be said of the vintage super bike.
Ah, my first road bike, a steel Peugeot, had shifters on the down tube - definitely agree indexed shifters were a massive leap forward, but it's quite fun when you get a lever shift spot on!
Will say this Simon, if you have or had the 'privilege' of keeping that extraordinary Merckx bike for your personal collection, replica or not, you are a very lucky man indeed. Watching you ride the Merckx...I grew up riding bikes of this genre, its looks so much cooler than the modern bike. There are many factors as you suggest that comprise a 'metric' basis for the time difference between bikes. A list of probably 10 factors. But it runs both ways because of time lost due to gearing and fumbling on the Merckx for the best gear where gear choices were more limited. To me, a split the baby compromise as to best bike scenario would be...a more modern mechanical Campagnolo groupset...10 or 11s on that Merckx chassis with ordinary albeit sporty clinchers would be the sweet spot. Softness aka flex of steel is such a joy to ride. Cake and eat it too. Cheers from America.
It's a super cool bike isn't it! What was your favourite retro bike that you got your hands on? - If you would like to see more of this bike Si's GCN+ doc is the place to catch it 👉 gcn.eu/1969 - You can't beat a neo-retro build 🙌 What would your dream retro build be?
My solution to handlebar hood position on my vintage bike, new when purchased 😊 has always been to tighten the clamp so the bars can be moved with a bit of effort, tight enough so they never ever slip, it’s great for climbing out of the saddle then when I push drops down a touch to raise the hoods😀
I would choose the Eddy Merckx every day. Just a gorgeous looking bike. I much prefer my "velo ancien" over my carbon fibre modern one. More comfortable, and feels more responsive. Love the beeps, by the way...🤣
3:58. Actually, the non-index shifters were often on the handlebars before they were moved to the down tube and replaced with index shifters in the late 1980s, early 1990s.
I'll take the vintage steel bike any day of the week. Did you find that the fork might have been a bit more compliant? With the 24 or 22 to 42 ratios, you also had to develop some strength too and not just spin. It was more of a mix between cadence and bruit strength. If you didn't grow up with that you just didn't develop it. I will give it to the first index shifting on the brake levels and hyper glide, it was a real game changer.
@@stefunkypunky116 the way the chain transitioned into the next gear was smoother due to better arrangement of the teeth and the little shaved bits off the teeth ends made the chain engagement so much smother. Now its a given and everyone is doing it. I've got an older DuraAce free wheel that predates that knowledge. It works but its just not as quick or smooth to transition. The cassettes are also a lot nicer to work with. Free wheels are a real bugger to remove most times.
@Chris Harper I am building up a nice Pinarello steel bike with Shimano 600 tricolore group (2x8, uniglide) from around '90 combined with a Shimano Claris break lever and shifter. Do you think that combination will shift that much worse? (When I had it SIS frame shifter, it switched really crispy and fast)
@@stefunkypunky116 I would think you'll be okay. Uniglide lead into HG and things became more standardized. UG won't fit a HG hub but if you have UG on hand, go for it. Check HG chain compatibility but I suspect it would work just fine.
Got the Triban RC120 in 2021 for commuting, i changed the Brakes for some cheap cable activated hydraulic ones and the tires to tubeless Schwalbe pro one i had lying around, very good cheap bike!
What comparisons would you like to see us do next? 👇
Entry level modern bike (alou frame) vs advanced level 10 years old bike (carbon frame)
Same price around 1000£.
What about comparing different bike builds? New/used entry level bike + component upgrades, but must stay under a certain price point.
Different GCN presenters could give their opinions of the best use of $1500, $2000, $2500 to get started in cycling.
We are still waiting for the previous comparison . With same tires 😐
Sorry, GCN how many times can you make the same ('samish) video. You're doing it on every subject. Maybe reduce the volume of content and focus on the quality. I am watching less and less GCN because of the deja vu quality I get with many video's.
You guys can make amazing video's and have a quality team, but I have to dig through to much fluff to find it nowadays.
Do an entry level cx bike vs entry level road bike comparison video pls. I also really like your videos GCN keep up the good work
Love seeing you cover cheaper bikes. This is the kind of content I would share with someone wanting to start cycling. When I started cycling I could barely wrap my head around spending about $1000 for my first road bike and gear. Videos like this I think would help expand the sport to more people.
We love this comment Joshua! It's great to hear that you are keep to help others into this sport🙌 Can you think on any other videos that you would of liked to see when you started?
Mobility gonna change in next 10-20 years. Bike will be a brick of it, mandatorily.
@@mcenini21 more like public transport
I worked in bicycle shops in the 1980's According to the inflation calculator $1,000 today would be equivalent to $357 in 1985. The bicycle I sold around that price range was the Centurion Elite RS which was a particularly nice riding bicycle in its day. A modern $1,000 road bicycle is lighter, more aerodynamic and rolls, shifts and stops a lot better than the old Centurion. The truth is that adjusted for inflation bicycles are a great deal and you can get more bike for your money now than ever before. If you go back to the bike boom 1970's bicycles were very expensive and most of them were junk.
@@jacksonbrucea always nice to hear from the oldest ones 👍 and your thought are good to hear.
I'm thinking this sentence may sound inappropriate, but I'm French and maybe I don't always use "correct" English. Just think about kindness in my message.
Keep riding 😎
Great to see GCN testing entry level bikes. Please do more comparisons of existing entry level bikes from all manufacturers and suggest some modifications which can be done on these entry level bikes so it feels and works great.
Agreed, and it was pleasing to see how positive he was about the triban. It’s easy to become spoilt by high end equipment but the reality is even reasonable entry level bikes today are very good. Triban, pinnacle and vitus all offer excellent bikes, and further up their ranges, some excellent options.
As they have always said, the biggest upgrade anyone can make is tyres.... all bikes feel better and perform better with quality tyres. After that, it's wheels, but you need to love bike to spend that dosh
@@mickwilson2170 absolutely!
Check out Frances Cade (Cade Media now) he did an entry level SCOTT not so long ago , an enlightenment for people that don't know that they don't need to buy top of the range unless they are racing for seconds ! Still nice to have the shiniest bike though
There's not much to say on the matter. All these bikes run the same entry microshift components and there's not much difference in the tires/wheels. So, just like they've said now in I-lost-count-how-many videos, upgrade the tires. Then wheels if you want. After that, its not worth it because upgrading the drivetrain (at least until maybe when Shimano CUES is released for road) requires a complete overhall and its more economical just to upgrade the whole bike.
There, I've given you the upgrade path for every entry bike. Conversation closed.
Ive put brand new 105, modern wheels, tubeless racing tyres etc on a vintage Reynolds 531c frame. Just the most gorgeous ride ever.
Appreciate GCN not using the Eurobike here. The eurobike isn't a true entry level road bike and comparing it with, well, just about anything isn't all that interesting
"Entry level bike vs Eurobike" coming soon
@@SkaughttoTHAT would actually be interesting to see!
I completely agree with you.
Euro bike is like if you told target to make a road bike that they would sell for $300, then you sent that design off to a novelty trinket store one might find in an airport, and then tell them to cost it down so they can sell it for $300.
I literally commented ages ago that the euro bike should be finished now and poking fun at it has ran its course... It was on the 'Cheap Bike Pro Rider Vs Super Bike Amateur Rider - Climb Edition!' I am glad they are using a proper entry level bike!
PLEASE make a video of the cheap bike as it is in this video v's top tyre upgrade. Because let's face it, as entertaining as this video was, not many of us are in the market for a custom built retro bike, however many people would be interested in how fast a budget bike could go with a simple tyre upgrade.
How about trying “classic frame new components”? Most of the criticisms related to things like gears, wheels and brakes - how does this frame ride with updated components and wheels?
They already have done that, on the GCN Tech. The video is called ''Can a Retro Bike Handle a Modern Groupset & Disc Brakes?''
@@philipcooper8297 But If i remember correctly that was a terrible quality beater of a bike frame. Not a nicely crafted race machine!
I’d rather they compared a modern steel frame vs CF frame of equivalent cost with identical or nearly so modern components. In particular I’d like to see them compare a steel bike frame made with Columbus Spirit HSS hydroformed into aero tubes. An XCr frame comparison would be cool too.
I’d like to see how modern steel alloy frames compare to a CF bike of equal cost.
Ot would be a good ride. steel is real
@@philipcooper8297 the man on the bike is 90% the bike is 10%
Idea for a video series:
Each presenter buys a bike for £1000. Then they do a series of rides.
A group century. An epic climb. A Gravel ride. A competitive fondo.
Between each ride they make upgrades to the bike on a budget. Objective isn’t necessarily to come in first, but to see what bikes and upgrades people made and how they affected their enjoyment of the ride.
Top gear but on bikes
that would be cool. Unfortunately one annoying thing is that particularly small men and women can get pretty sweet deals. if you are 180cm bikes can be pretty expensive second hand. If you ride a size S or XS frame you can get some rediculous deals as noone buys such small bikes. Same goes for oversized bikes....
@@kingprone7846 it's not annoying for small people.
@@kingprone7846 I beg to differ. „Oversized“ bikes, as I would call anything above 61 based on the availability (new as well as second-hand), usually come in either underspecced (and far too expensive for the components) or in race specs, costing € 4000. Hardly a good deal in between. When I change the search filters to smaller frames, especially on second-hand websites - boom, reasonable prices. I guess the market knows that bigger bikes aren‘t produced in the numbers standard-sized ones are and that us tall people really have no choice.
Great to see GCN using Triban as the entry level bike, my first road bike was a Btwin triban, absolute bargain and loved it, for those of us with a limited budget, fantastic bike to own
It's a great first bike, what sort of adventures did you have? 👀
@@gcn did my first over 30 mile ride and a charity ride to Foulness, an MOD site, really cemented my cycling "bug" now have a Trek road bike "Dave" who is the 2nd love of my life :) :)
@@gcn good enough to get your toes wet, train low intensity, Ride your First Century, Fall over with Flippers Pedals, Sprint above 50kph for the First time, get dropped by a group that is a wee Bit too fast and lose 10kg while doing so.
The vintage steel bike looked great flying along. My favourite is a vintage frame with modern components..the retromod bike.
Can't go wrong with mix of both! What retro bike would you use a base? 😎
@@gcn One of my favorite bikes is a 1980s Reynolds 531 lugged steel Falcon frameset, built up with modern 10s Campy components, including a Euros tubular wheelset. But I kept some more retro features like rim brakes, Selle Italia saddle, and a quill stem. It's a blast to ride, and gets a lot of attention.
@@gcn The one featured here is fine. May need the rear of the frame tweaking for a modern wheel and forks changed for threadless. 🤠
@@auh2o64 Likewise , one of my favourites is a 1984 Raleigh Road Ace, 531 C but only the main triangle is original. 10 speed Chorus, Profile AC full carbon fork ( 1 inch Steerer) . 3 T bars. Campy Neutron wheels, re finished frame and gets attention at the cafe stops...and still a great ride.
For the record I had the rear end pulled out to 130 mm, from the original 126 mm. Also on speedplays, toeclips are a death trap....
You can't ride a vintage bike? Baloney. I do it every day. GCN has run multiple "how bad was vintage biking" with dried out tires, dried out brake pads and then tells people that old bikes don't work. Take a decent vintage bike and make sure the consumables bits are in good condition and a vintage bike will work just fine. For most people the bike is not holding them back... their legs just aren't strong enough..
Ebay sells replacement fresh rubber brake pads for Campy Super Record calipers. Slide out the dried out rubber and put the new one in and my MAVIC Open pro rims were singing!!!
I cannot agree with you more. I've been wondering if they're afraid to offend their advertisers by the comparison. The comfort and feel of classic steel or titanium, with or without a carbon fork, is way better than carbon or aluminum frames
I ride a Schwinn steel frame and Campy road bike on a regular basis. There's nothing slow about it
My go to bike is a vintage gilko framed simonsinni road bike,I've
Owned betwins they were OK,
I have even owned a carbon framed wonder bike which was more uncomfortable than a
Horse hair mattress! And didn't
Last long in my ownership, I
Agree down tube shifting was a
Phaff but if you grew up with them
They weren't a problem bikes today are too Complicated and
Genraly pretty ugly and extremely
Exspensive to maintain.
The riders of the 70s/80s had more class generally ,hills have
Only got easier today due to the
Gearing on new bikes back in the day we could still spin them,as they say ican still remember spinning 60/66 up biggish hills
In the 80s.
If the brake hoods were good
Enough for the likes of Mr merkx
Rodger develmick and Lucian van
Imp back in the day they are good enough for me today,yes bikes
And cycling has improved over
The years but steel is real and
A lot more comfortable
I think the biggest revelation of this video is that a custom-made steel frame made from modern tubes combined with a high-quality modern mid-tier group may be everyone's "go-to" bike. The classic appearance, ease of maintenance, reasonable price, practical functionality, the weight is not heavy as you thought an "old school" steel frame bike should have, and, most importantly, the size and geometry are made for you. Who would resist such an all-rounder?
100%
Yep, and if you do this yourself, you don't have to put the downtube shifters on, or the small cassette with only a few gears. They only did this in this video to keep it historically accurate, but nothing is stopping you from putting modern shifters and gears on.
Dentists
IMO aluminum frames took over because they're cheaper to mass produce, not because they perform better. You can get vintage road bikes used for $100-$300 and upgrade the components you don't like, spending a lot less than you would on a modern entry-level road bike in the process. Definitely easier for a novice cyclist with zero maintenance experience to just buy the modern road bike and get riding, however.
That's what I ride. My current favorite is a 1982ish Mikkelsen with 12s Campy parts. Just a joy to ride. And even in my size less than 20 pounds.
I 100% agree, tyres are the upgrade to go for. My first road bike was Triban RC500 (Sora groupset) and the stock tyres the bike came on were awful. Just swapping the tyres for something a bit more nice (Ultra Sport III) completely transformed the bike. At the same effort I could ride longer and futher with much more confidence.
My first 'proper' road bike is a Vitus Razor 2022, one of the things that impressed me was the Kenda tyres. While there is plenty of room to upgrade (I'm thinking Pirelli P Zero) for an entry level bike I was pleased to find the tyres weren't awful, but they will be the first upgrade.
It must be said those Continentals are ridiculously good. They're fast, comfortable, dependable - and all that for not too much money. I like them a lot.
Agreed the ultra sport lll. Are fast and cheap
@Phil'O's Garage Snap, been into MTB for years. Just got a Vitus Razor last week and love it. Fast, comfortable and fun without breaking the bank... what's not to love??
@MVM Continental has 2 kinds of bike road tires, one made in Germany and the other cheaper ones made somewhere else - I only use the Grand Prix tires with made-in-Germany only Black Chili compound. Ride safe...
I've got the exact same Triban to use for both commuting and a bit of weekend rides and I'm pleased to hear it actually received some good feedback! I agree tyres are a major point to upgrade, one of my dear cycling friends always says that, no matter how expensive your frame, wheel or components are, the only patch of contact you get with the ground comes from the tyres!
We're tired of talking about it ... 😉 but tyres are the first upgrade anyone should look at 🙌 Did you upgraded yours?
@@gcn 100%! I've changed a few sets in the couple of years, going for 30 or 32 also seemed a good compromise for comfort.
I've read some people managed to convert this Triban RC120 to a more gravel set up and fit 38s as well.
@@The_Italian_Job So many people did it with good results they actually sell it as a gravel bike now too, with tubeless ready wheels and Hutchinson Overide 700x38.
I would add tubes as well because they contact the tires. I am not saying that everyone needs latex inner tubes, but the benefits to rolling resistance are enough to improve performance and make a commute feel easier.
Hi there. I buyed the Triban 120 RC in pale grey colour arround 15 months ago and converted it into a gravel bike straight away. I put 38c tyres on it and immediately changed Crankset because I think that for gravel and offroad climbs you have to have minimum 46 30 Crankset.
I drove and changed many different road bikes in last 9 years and from my experience Triban rc 120 is a lot of bicycle for such a small money. Yes, changing tyres is a good idea and maybe the Wheels as well. Buying a pair of for example cheap Aksium Disc Wheels would cut another 400gr from the bike and better tyres almost also 400. The only "problem" that i found with Triban is that jumps between gears on such a large cassette with only 8 speed is to much for me. I would just change cassette for maybe 12 30 and there you got it. With some minor changes a perfect, comfortable beginners bicycle, or winter bike, commuter, training bike, etc...
The frame builder did a great job 😍 that Merx is gorgeous
the red fork tube, with white bars and forks is 🤌
Looks beautiful doesn’t it? Would actually be interesting to see how it fairs with modern Campagnolo
You might recognise the frame builder 👉gcn.eu/1969
@@gcn watched this last night, afer seeing this. Epic film
Loads of old bikes just as good on ebay
Kudos for the consistency in power output across different scenarios. I was expecting the Triban to perform better uphill with that gearing.
With respect to the hoods and shifter positioning. We rode a lot more on the drops back then. It was easier to get to the down tube shifters from that position and just somehow more comfortable.
Just watch your fingers on the front tyre though! 😳
Yeah, and you had to move your hand like 6 inches to shift. NBD. Also, you just got used to it...
@@gregmuon You can’t shift sprockets and rings with just one hand with brifters.
I also developed the cunning “technique” of pushing the sprocket lever with my knee if an emergency upshift was needed after say cresting a hill.... sure I’m not the only one.
If you look at TdF photos from those days, you'll see they used the tops of the bars way more than people do today also .
@@DavidMartin-tk4fs Top marks for technique! 🙌
Never, ever underestimate the greatness of a vintage super bike. A fairly well trained, capable rider on one can kill the ego of everyone on a group ride. Slightly more modern upgrades, like STI levers, better brakes, and a 9/10 speed drivetrain really unlock their potential.
Cope harder boomer
I was in a B group ride. One day a retired Navy SEAL showed up on a mountain bike and left with the A group of very fast men.
When our B group returned. We learned that the retired SEAL had come back in with the A group.
I've never seen anything like that before or since.
As someone with both vintage and modern bikes I love these videos, the riding enjoyment is very different between vintage and modern, but both are very enjoyable
Glad you liked it! There's definitely reasons for enjoying both vintage and modern bikes!
As someone who rode,raced, and toured on friction shifters and rim brakes it always amazes me how "we couldn't stop, or shift"! That's the way it was! Clipless pedals and moving shifters to the handlebars, two great improvements! For most of us, aero, and frame materials are just something to talk about. Cruising along at 16-18 mph, 26-29 kph the benefits of these technologies are just "lost". Position, tire choice, and saddle choices, that will determine ones comfort on the bike. My days of keeping up with Si are over. I hope his passion, and memories of "time on the bike" equal or exceed mine at 64. Si is always an enthusiastic presenter and a great cyclist in his own right. This was a great segment!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for the comment
Every dog has his day😅.
I have several bikes and the analog "friction" shifters are hands down my fav. Once you are used to it, you know exactly how much to move the lever for a clean shift. And they require zero maintenance, never regulation issues ( a gear that doesn't want to go up or down etc) . zero bullshit. I wish I could find more quality modern analog shifters.
@@zaub1agree, I loved my friction shifters. It's really easy to get the hang of. However, having them on the down tube annoyed me to no
end.
@@zaub1 I can shift downtube friction shifters well, they are totally great on a nice day on a quiet road. However, I'm so happy I've switched my bike over to some rsx sti's (period correct for my late 90s steel frame anyway), the ability to easily downshift while braking and maneuvering is totally worth having to twist the adjuster a quarter turn or so every few months. Which is about the interval the downtube shifters needed a retighten to have the right amount of friction...
I raced in college 35 years ago. Life got in the way and I took up riding again 4 years ago but I occasionally still reach for the downtube to shift. I do like DI2 but Si you haven't riding friction shifters enough to appreciate them. The shifts were like an extension of one's arm and it was never out of adjustment.
Do you think you'll be going back to friction shifters? When you get used to them it can be great fun 🙌
@@gcn have actually been thinking of putting the old bike back in service... Vitus 979 with Campy paired with Modolo shifters and brakes.
I’m not at all surprised that a state-of-the-art bike world tour bike from 50 years ago beat an entry-level modern bike. I bought a 1984 vintage Italian race bike from Berlin’s Steel Vintage Bike website, and I swear it feels faster than my modern carbon cx bike. Geezers unite!
"Entry level" is the only level many, many people can afford and/or need. It's good to know that it's comfier and easier to use than a fancy one. 🙂
Worth noting that the Eddy Merckx team replica cost a whopping £1050, in 1976, here in the UK. Which, in today's money, is around £9,000.
That 1976 bike had super record componentry, not record as Si was riding on his 1969 TDF superbike. The 1969 price was probably about £400 with campy brakes (£50).
@@dgillies5420 to be honest, I don’t know the actual spec. But given that £1050 in ‘76 was the equivalent around £9k today, I would like to think it had the top spec.
These RPI comparisons make no sense - yes £9K among a basket of goods but housing was so much cheaper. You could get a house for £10k in 1976 and that’s where the majority of most people’s salary goes.
@@greennoodle69 I think any comparison with houses would be confusing. It would be like a supermarket saying that fruit and veg is falling in price, if compared to house values, when the real time cost of groceries is clearly rising at the fastest rate ever recorded.
Far better to compare the cost of bikes in relation to earnings, rather than pick a comparison denominator that, through significant changes in the supply ? demand ratio (like housing for instance) bears little relation to the cost of bicycles.
Certainly most inflation calculations are based on the consumer price index, rather than any other index.
@@joules531consumer price index makes more sense. Earnings are well related to markets expectations on how the country is doing overall. Price index is a more approachable proxy for keeping purchase power stored through time, the storing value of money.
I firmly believe that the numbers speak for themselves. I would always go with the lugged steel road bike every day for commuting or flat roads. The only reason I'd go for the new bike is if I had to climb long hills every day. The white "so called" Eddy Merckx just looks so much better too. In many US cities at least, you'd always get more street cred on the Merckx than you would on the new bike. Thanks.
What amazes me is the gears that used to be pushed even into the early 2000s. My first road bike was a steel Peugeot with 52/42 chains set and 14/25 cassette (7spd!) Now I’m riding 50/34 - 12/32 11 sod. Can’t believe how I managed some of the more challenging hills tackled today. Mind you I was 20 odd years younger!
I've still got a Vitus, 12- 18 block. I only used the front 42 cog.
48x52 (T.A. 'Professionel' chainset) with 14-16-18-21-24 in my young days in the 1960s - like you, I don't know how I did it!
30 rpm!!!
In the summer of 1995, I did a one month long bike tour though southern Germany in Austria. My bike had a Shimano 2 × 7. I don't remember the exact gearing on the cassette, but I know that my easiest gear was 39×28!
With those Granny Gears, you were either a Touring or a Recreational Cyclist thirty years ago. Campagnolo's Single Parallelogram Rear Mech/Derailleur could only accommodate a 25 tooth Maximum. 39 and 41 tooth Inner Chainrings only came available during the Late 1980's. Climbers and GC contenders knew they had to have the Legs to get over the Mountains.
I have my 86 LOOK Bernard Hinault I got for high school graduation in 1988. Basicly Gregs replica. I raced it til 1990 then left cycling for hockey for 30 yrs. I dusted it off and started riding again in 2010 30 yrs older and weighing 100 lbs more( 250) than I did in my racing days. That LOOK got me back in shape and it was only 3 yrs ago I got a modern bike. Now my LOOK gets an occasional ice cream ride and it is SO uncomfortable compared to my new bike. But that was ALL I knew! These 53 yr old bones appreciate the level of comfort. Gears, brakehoods, saddles, low pressure 28mm tubeless has made my rides no pain all gain. Great vid Si
A part of me died inside when the Merckx replica fell over. Should have used a shadow stand, Si!
What an amateur 😉
Having both modern and "older" bikes, they both have advantages and disadvantages, Personally, I really like my Carlton Pro Mk5 (1983 f531 frame), runnign 9-spd Campag ergo groupset. Gives the comfort and rideability and straight out friendliness of a good steel frame, with the convenience and friendliness of "proper gears". In fact I liked it so much, I built a Carlton Clubman to the same spec to take mudguards etc for commuting. Not as tight and fast as the Pro, but a good solid comfy ride on a 20mile commute. Both the Carltons run 3x9 groupsets. PLenty of gears, big and small.
From someone who had the RC120 the worst part of the bike is the bottom bracket and the tourney crankset. When I changed it for a tiagra BB with a tiagra crankset it was like I had a new bike It just rolled more freely and smoothly. A nice and worthy upgrade also where the wheels.
+1
Do more with this retro bike ! Paris-roubaix would be fascinating- always seemed nuts to do it 50 year ago!
Not sure we would get many takers for a retro Roubaix at the office 😆 That is one tough race! We've got this great video of classic vs modern over the cobbles of Flanders 👉 ua-cam.com/video/aubcNAX45NM/v-deo.html
Okay, wow!! Total not expected that result. I love these videos comparing different Era bikes. I have a 1974 ventage Nishiki, and Simon's description of the handle was spot on. With that said, riding an old well maintained bike is still wonderfully fun.
Have you got a retro bike? 👀 Like you said, look after it and it can be a lot of fun!!!
Seriously, I have a early 70's Raleigh and I love it. But the levers are so hard and narrow. Otherwise it is super fun to ride.
My road bike is a Raleigh Technium and I have a fixed gear based on a 1986 League Fuji with a VaLite frame. I love the old bikes.
I ride a 1981 nishiki, never tried anything other than so can't compare but i do love it, of course with modern tires
Interesting thanks for the video. I once had a bike with downtube shifters without indexes, I used it to get around town and I would say that when used regularly the system becomes quite easy, reflexive. There's even something nice about the lack of indexing (no click to change gears). When you're used to it, you can find the exact gear, no more being slightly off as with indexing (for someone who doesn't always keep their bike in tip top tuning).
It's similar to how a bass guitarist can play a fretless bass, after awhile you just know the positioning.
It's like a car with manual transmission vs paddle shifter (usually in combination with an automatic transmission or automated manual like dual-clutch - PDK, DSG, S-Tronic etc.), of course because of the other gearbox these are faster but if you're routined you can also shift a manual very quickly, I can shift up that way by just slightly tapping the clutch pedal and ease the throttle/accelerator for that moment and push the gear knob into the next gear.
Fabulous comparison. I am in my 70s and have health problems so I ride an ebike mostly. But I still love my 50-year-old Falcon with Campy gears and shifters. I did upgrade to 700C from 27x1.
Can’t wait for my boy to grow into his little Triban 3 so he can kick my butt on my vintage french bike.
So torn between keeping the simple crisp (indexed) downtube shifters and putting on a modern shimano 11 speed group set. 7 on the back does often find you hunting for a comfy cadence I have to say.
Simon is so right though, geometry, determined by the shape of the human, hasn’t changed much in 30 or 50 years, so old frames certainly can romp up a climb.
I did an epic front wheel flip once, when I shifted on the lower tube with a tennis racket in my right hand.
In Paris I still see many people commuting with old bikes like that.
I perfectly remember how there is no index, but if you remember, first shifters on the bars didn't have Index at first either.
My first road bike was one that I got as a high school graduation gift and was an Eddy Merckx that looked exactly like that frame. Ahh, the memories. I even put Veloflex tires on it, too.
My hubby as a old steel Peugeot from the early 90's. Down tube levers etc!. Loves it!!!
Nice! I'm not surprised by the result - skinny tubulars are indeed really fast. The hoods on old bikes though, are horrible untill early 90s. But the real problem was in bars shape - hands just slide down onto hoods that is painful. Still I'm waiting for a comparison of top 90s and early 2000s racing bikes, cause from my own experience these tend to be real good with tight geometry and compatible with modern groupsets. Also going 1" threadless helps a lot to accomodate new bars&stem and gain a ton of stiffness.
Honestly, I really like downtube shifters.
I grew up with those type of shifters. 2 x 5. They were a leap up from the Sturmey Archer 3 speed.
Me too. Being all we knew, they weren't 'dangerous' or a faff to operate either.
So first off I'd like to say great job to Si for a very nice video, Now I'll translate what Si was saying. " If you raced on the vintage technology your skill level and toughness had to be at a higher level because you had to be more precise shifting, braking, climbing in or out of the saddle because of gearing or lack of!!" As far as the hoods we didn't seem to have a problem with them. Shifting you just got used to how far to throw the lever, I shifted both front and rear at the same time when needed not a big deal. A lot more talent is needed to ride a vintage bike and get the most out of it.
This channel makes me appreciate being in the US because I have never seen you all bike on a completely dry road 😭
I learned to ride with downtube shifters in the ‘80s. Shifting becomes second nature. Kinda like learning to type. Eventually, you just shift without thinking about it.
But then you try integrated shifters...and they're just better
Just with everything really. Same goes for clipping in and out of pedals!
I have downtube shifters on my 1987 renyolds 531 and they are ok but the downside is that they are a nightmare to fix and the left lever will tend to have the most problems
@@AngusNolanAddison I have never needed to repair a downtube shifter and I have used them for 50 years. I am using a 35 year old set now. I don't understand what would make them "a nightmare" to fix, as they are very simple and very accessible, unlike a modern integrated shifter - which I have seen break and was not repairable.
@@notmyrealname007update i got them fixed it’s usually when they’re not lubricated for over 30 years it was in the roof of my dad’s garage for 18 years and when i rode it for the first time the downtube shifters had needed a major repair due to the shifter failing to move the chain on the gears and the chain kept on going back to third and most strange of all the shifters were working backwards!😂 in the end i fixed the problem and it rides like just like a new bike. Mine are the original zeus Shifters not the click ones on later renyolds meaning you can just shift from 1st to 5th with a single push of the lever it’s why i like older race bikes!
I love my old Tommasini vintage bike with Campagnolo and Simplex now 38 years old and my now 12 year old Ridley with FSA and Shimano - I agree totally with your comments!
They are different experiences - I would urge young cyclists to give a vintage bike a try just for short fun rides !
Agreed; the vintage bike only has a chance of being competitive in a time-trial on flats where you aren't shifting very much, or on a steep uphill where the lighter weight of the vintage bike (in this particular case) would be an advantage.
When I watch the tour-de-france lately - it must now be photographed by helicopters to keep up (at 30-40 mph all the time) - I just don't want to ride THAT FAST so there's something to be said about vintage bikes !!
Fun vid. I started with a decent small frame builder Reynolds/Campy bike back in 1972 - Colin Cape, handed down to me by my older brother. I remember all those beautiful bikes from back then. Rode a series of steel frames till I went over to mountain biking back in the 90's. I've been riding a little road lately, but with a three level cervical fusion, I have to have a way more upright position, so it's an old but sweet Specialized Allez steel I picked up for a song and converted to a townie.
My brother (RIP) was a more serious roadie, and he kept his early Paramount from all those years back. I have that bike now, a faded but still pretty relic.
Would love to see a neo-retro build with the Merckx! 12-speed, deep wheels on an old steel frame? Best of both worlds.
Or go for a '90s bike. Even 8-speed Campag and Shimano is a massive step up. My favourite bike (I have many to choose from) is a '90s Merckx with Record 8-speed ergos and 2nd-generation Shamals. Not the fastest, but smooth and comfortable and utterly beautiful.
It would look pretty special ... we would have to take apart a beautiful old school build 😭
Got to have the skinny wheels or spoil the look
@@qigong100 DA 7400 with brifters would absolutely be a great all round vintage bike, while still keeping most of the modern conveniences
Once you're used to downtube shifters, they're perfectly adequate. You can drop all the way from smallest to biggest cog in one sweep if you want to. I love the direct feel of them.
Yes. I’ve got an ‘84 Trek that’s silky smooth on the downtube shift.
Well I upgraded my shifters on my bike from 89 to an old shimano 105 groupset from 1995. Feels like I'm in a racecar instead of a rattling Lada.
@Rek Dem I bought my present MAIN bike in 1996. It came with a 7 speed cassette and STI brifters. I fitted down tube shifters , friction mode, about 15 years ago, when I got fed up with cables going after 4,000 miles or so. Its now usually got a 9 speed cassette on it. I recently fitted most of a 1990s 105 groupset to another bike. Beautiful stuff.
I can shift em with my knee😂
You can drop an entire cassette with one sweep with Campagnolo Record 10 speed. Taking your hands off the bar to change gears isn't exactly ideal. I used downtube shifters for years; pain in the back changing the front derailleur whilst climbing a hill.
On down tube shifting I think it’s all what you are used to. All my bikes, but one are down tube friction shift. I think it’s easy because I am used to it. Just my opinion. Also I don’t race. Ergo shifting is nice, but when the indexing gets off it’s a pain.
This was a fascinating video for me, I have an old Peugeot I have transformed a Neo-retro build with full 105 catalog (groupo, brakes, pedals) and modern rims, stem, saddle and carbon bars.... and I actually made it slower from it's original spec. One of my fastest times over 15km still stands in the original spec, however all the upgrades have made it a pleasure to ride.
I'm with you on the wheels, and shifting on vintage bikes. Just completed my project on my I think early 90s bianchi repetro course, changed out the bars and put dual control levers on and tubeless rim brakes wheels with some maxxis refuse tires and I have to say that bike is a beast now
Which one? Usually the name was just the steel type used. My silky puma is an EL/OS.
@@escgoogle3865 all I see is 18 MCDC6
@@davidd166 The "Columbus" sticker should be on the seat tube. It will say Columbus Nivachrome with either SLX, TSX, SL, EL, EL (oversized)... in big font. The EL non oversized had a rider weight limit.
Choose any Rim Brake Bike over Disc any Day, Currently Replacing my Disc Bikes with Rim at the Moment.
Bar end shifters were a thing 50 years ago, José Manuel Fuente was using them against Merckx in '73. They do give a slight weight penalty but they're much nicer to use over the downtube shifters. I'm surprised they weren't more popular early on.
I could imagine bar end shifters might a problem when your enemy wants to accidentally brush past you and knock the shifter. They do ride very close together in the bunch and it would be a shame of your competitor suddenly was in the wrong gear at a critical moment.
Possibly because their location makes them potentially dangerous. Something pointy to land on.
The Campagnolo Super Record wasn't a very precise derailleur in the first place. Then add the spongey shift housing and short levers ...well it got worse...advantage goes to being shorter and not having to reach between the knees. The Suntour ratchet bar ends were the best , but not many pro teams used Suntour. Those down tube Suntour Power Shifters with the ratchet mechanism were also superior. Both of these with modern shift housing and cables work pretty nice with modern cassette cogs. When Shimano introduced the hyperglide shift system it was a big improvement and paved the way to the handle bar shift levers.
Index shifting was a game changer when introduced I have vintage bikes with upgraded groupsets
Si looks sharp on the Mercx! I think the next step, would be to get a vintage road bike and modernize it, spacing out the rear dropouts for modern wheelset, budget friendly groupsets and carbon fork, do all that and actually compete with that setup!!
What's so good about a carbon fork?
I love Si videos having someone closer to my age makes gcn more palatable. Perhaps some videos with presenters in 50's, 60's, 70's ... I think would make for interesting videos...
Si's getting there... 😅
Had the triban for almost a year. Main downside of RC120 for me is the integrated derailleur hanger which puts you in fear of trashing the entire frame in case of a crash or derailleur being hit by something, it also puts you off any big upgrades besides tires for the same reason. Another downside is the rim brake version being phased out which forces you to mechanical discs (hence the almost 11Kg weight). Apart from that, it makes for a good basic touring/ gravel/ commuting/ distance riding bike due to practical gearing and comfortable position. Strongly advise upgrading the tires, since i've put on 32mm Ultrasports the ride quality feels completely different from the crappy stock ones.
Origin8 makes a der-hanger emergency replacement which can be epoxy applied for permanent use
Decathlon gives you life warranty for the frame, so in case of crashing the frame you will just have a new one
100% with you, plus I wouldn't wish onto my worst enemy to have to change a tube due to a flat while on a ride. The stock tires were some of the toughest ones I've ever had to put back. I'm glad I had a spare tube because the first one I put in got punctured while I was trying to put the tyre back on the rim.
@@Roman-ig9hf I have never dealt with Triban, but manufacturers warranties generally don't cover crash damage.
New tyres are the way to go! Do you think you'll get a new bike or are you happy with the Triban?
8:30 you just made me go off on a tangent and watch "How To Install Tubular Tires With Glue". Never heard of that before!
To get a better result you'll need to use the same gear ratios as well perhaps 42/52 - 13/23 On both rigs.
I have a 91/92 Eddy Merckx Team Motorola Corsa Extra. It has indexed down tube shifting. It's made out of Columbus Nivachrome Steel that gives a very nice ride. I don't know what that metal does with road shock, but I know it doesn't send it up to my spine. Back then that frame was about $1800. Still a beautiful bike. I haven't been able to ride that bike in several years, thanks for the vid. It brings back memories, good one.
My very first hand-me-down bike was steel, downtube shifters a lot like this. It never really wanted to shift front so you just stuck with it. Breaking downhill was a joke. I loved that thing.
Fun test, although the result wasn't surprising once I saw the VeloFlex Record tires on the Merckx. I'm glad that Si didn't ride old tires since that's dangerous, but you were basically comparing tires. Tire technology has come a huge way since 1969 and the Veloflex record will be miles ahead (and probably 30 watts faster) than the original tires on the old bike.
Clearly we need another video with some basic decent road tires on the Triban! Perhaps the Conti UltraSport III!
Loving these comparison videos. And Si seems to be having a great time!
Very nice video. Glad you picked that Triban rather than the Eurobike. One point though, the Triban, has been designed by Decathlon to be a bike comfortable for entry level, so the geometry is deliberately more relaxed so will feel more comfortable. That said, I’m not surprised the 50 year old design is faster. Thin steel tubes are still pretty light and can produce a responsive bike. That gearing though 😅. Well done for getting such a good time up that 20% gradient on a 42: 23 ratio, Si!
Thanks for the comment Alex! We're glad you enjoyed the video 🙌 What bike would you choose to ride?
@@gcn The Eddy merckx replica. So unique. I'd prefer modern Campag on that incline though 😅
If I'm not wrong it's the same frame as there entry gravel bike, so it's quite an adaptable thing as well. I'm kind of tempted to pick one up. As my cyclo-cross bike just isn't fitting me to well
Awesome video Si. Since I'm older than the replica bike and I remember down tube shifters,(no tankx), I'll be sticking with my 2022 Atheos thankyouverymuch.
Would love to see it on uprated tyres. Suspect it would make up most of the difference
The nice thing about being able to work on my own bike is that, not only could I upgrade the tires to make an entry level bike faster, but I could upgrade the handlebars and shifters on a vintage race bike to bring it up to speed with todays. I am surprised that the steel frame bike was the lighter of the two. Thanks for the video.
Not at all surprised. The AL-frame might not be lighter but a lot stiffer. Additional weight from the cheap disc brakes vs. rim brakes and wider tyres plus iner tubes.
Nice work Simon . Welcome to my world. I believe my bikes came with 52/42 and 13-26 and that's it. Cycling was tough, and it's all we had, so we were just tough. I still ride my vintage bikes, but , they have been upgraded to 25mm tires and Tiagra 10 speed SIS system. One bike is moded with 48/30 and 11-36 . And yes, at age 76, I can still climb some of those hills from my 30's. KB
Nothing wrong with a neo-retro build!!! Sounds like a great bike, Is it in the bike vault? We'd love to see it 👉gcn.eu/app
@@gcn submitted twice haven't seen it yet.KB
@@gcn just uploaded my 1990 Concorde Astore again. KB
As someone who has ridden for close to 60 years, and has gone from lugged steel frames, down-tube non-indexed shifting, etc. to modern carbon with all the modern fixings (except I still like rim brakes), I can attest to overall improvements of speed, comfort, handling, etc. that come with modern bikes. What is missing though (at least for me), is a sense of true connection with the bike. I can ride my 2016 Fuji SL all day and not feel beat-up, but it is soul-less. On the other hand, while it sits in the garage looking sad, my '70's-ish Holdsworth 720 Reynolds (and my long gone older French and English bikes) bring back memories of a more heightened riding experience. I was more conscious and aware of when I needed to shift, brake, turn, etc. Even having to stay more focused on my riding position. And while the older bikes required more regular maintenance, that too brought an increased sense of connection by knowing how to make the slightest changes in cable tension or brake spacing, or when to swap rear cogs (I still have two, an 11-25 and a 13-28, both 5 speed) to adapt to a given ride. So not to wax too nostalgic, the bottom line is that it isn't that older or newer is better, just different. Whatever you have, just ride..
Those Triban's really take some beating at the price point. A few years ago I wanted a "proper" but cheap road bike to do a daily commute on and really all things considered (even used bikes) these where the only viable option. Never happened because of Covid but nothing else even came close to fitting the bill.
Absolutely agree. Having a entry level bike with modern Claris 2x8 or Sora 2x9 gearing makes many fun. It's just enough for riding, doing some exercises or bike packing. (No cables for the front roll pack).
And remember, you are Not in tour de France. There is Nobody counting your times and laps.
I also have the rc120, and those tires are awful. Rock hard and gave no feeling of security. Even swapping them out with the cheap Goodyears gave me 5km/h on average on the flats, and much more grip. I am sure some lighter inner tubes will also do some wonders.
I would really like to see a test on this cheap bike, comparing different cheap upgrades, like tires, tubes and narrower handlebars.
Great to hear from someone who has experience with the bike! Ollie did this video with GCN Tech 👉ua-cam.com/video/zW2AlSWJekc/v-deo.html He took an entry level road bike from Canyon and did some great initial upgrades.
Definitely one of the things I’ve noticed about my older Dawes sport bike is the indexing on the levers for the gears is nice vs none and you always want a gear inbetween what you got
Definitely want to see the Triban retested, same setup and then with fast tubeless tires. If the current wheels aren’t tubeless compatible, swap them but use the same wheel in both tests.
Should the Triban replace the Eurobike? 👀
@@gcn yeah, I think it should - it is more representative of an entry bike honestly.
I have the Triban. It is not really a good bike out of the box. But after upgrading the wheels and drive train I'm very happy with it. It won't win races, but I'm not a racer so that's perfectly fine for me.
I watch these videos and as someone who rides a bicycle every day but without wearing special clothes to do it I really enjoy the comparisons. I used to ride what we called 'racing bikes' in the 80's and 90's and was mostly pretty crap at it. However having ridden modern 'road bikes' I feel they've become too specialised, uncomfortable and exclusive. Unless you're competing why would you care about times and power outputs? The joy of cycling lies in freedom and enjoyment of the machine. The exact reason that a vintage 911 with a stick shift is more rewarding than a modern 911 with an auto transmission, ABS, electric power steering and all fun removed linking human to machine.
Air cooled 911>Water cooled 911 any day of the week.
I ride my C-Record 56/42 13-18 block Saronni red Colnago Super at my club rides against 15lb. or so modern Asian carbon bikes. A 56 chainring and laying off pizza and ice cream helps tremendously btw.
I turn 50 this year and staying in a paceline with 20 somethings keeps me smiling.
100% this I think 'prommuters' have put so many people off cycling to work. Wearing full kit for under 15km of riding is ridiculous to me. I've riden 250km a week for 8 years on a steel Single Speed and love it. And I've never owned any lycra 😅
This was a great comparison. This test goes to show that we can buy a bike as good, if not better than the pros of years gone by.
It also proves, that we should spend more time in the saddle and less time in the showroom buying the latest and greatest kit lol.
I have a Schwinn Continental, circa 1973, that I still ride. The gearshift levers are on the stem at handlebar height, and I replaced the tape on the handlebars with a foam grip. Still my favorite bike and it's' fun to ride.
When I saw the title I thought, this will be some great eurobike content, but this was even better.
Just having sti shifters and dual pivot brakes (I don't know about disc brakes) make a huge difference, and will trasport any retro bike into the modern era.
Fascinating comparison. I was watching a time trial during the 1960 Tour de France, from my bike very similar to the Merckx, and obviously very familiar with down tube shifters, and I've never forgotten watching a pro changing gear for a change of gradient. His hand just flashed down and up like a snake striking and he never took his eyes off the road ahead. Right gear instantly. I still have a bike with down tube shifters and as you said, sometimes you can't be bothered to change gear - wrong cadence.
Cyclists had more skill back in the day to counter the mechanical difficulties inherent with their technologies. Change of gradient, get up off your bum and start rocking, grab a lower gear right before sitting back down and trim off the rubbing before losing too much pace, we all did it that way.
Hello, Nice too see that triban bikes are very capable. To better cope with rythm changes, the triban would be better with new wheels as theses ones weigh more than 2 kilos ! In France the triban Gravel model sells very well too
Do you think the gravel version is a more versatile bike for the most people? 🤨
Don't forget that you can still upgrade the components of a steel framed bike and it will outlast the aluminium framed bike which will be landfill/recycled in 10 year's time due to metal fatigue.
One thing you didn’t point out was that compared to the Merckx the tribal has aero elements to its design with the shaped downtube, v-section rims and concealed cables at the bars but this didn’t appear to create an advantage on the road.
When riding with mates on their carbon bikes I don’t feel at a disadvantage on my old school Colnago but then I’m not competing at the highest level or seeking marginal gains. I’m just riding fast and in comfort and enjoying being out.
I was expecting to hear a phone call to the Merckx builders saying he broke it! Thankfully not, a good video and enjoyed watching and it reminded me of my starter bikes in the late 1970's early 80's with downshifters! I seem to remember having to plan gear changes a bit in advance so no fumbling for the levers when the scenery went vertical! Muscle memory helped and with practice changes could be made fairly accurately. Same today to an extent, but its much easier to change under load without compromising or hitting the jewels on the top tube when it went wrong! When indexed down tube levers came in things changed for the better 😂
I often dabble with the idea of buying a steel frame and mounting contemporary components on it - sort of Battaglin's or Tommasini's way, but preferably with less expensive parts. It could be the best of both worlds.
I have a 95 Bianchi TSX that I used to race with Campy 8 speed Chorus. It sat for 15 years after I changed to a better race bike. five or so years ago, I tore it down and slapped on some old 7700 components that I had.
This is what I did. I had an old bike with an aluminium frame which I didn't trust so I ditched it for an even older steel frame from 1986, spread the rear triangle, added a long arm derailleur, cobbled together a custom cassette that goes up 36 tooth, subcompact chainset, old shimano brake/shifter, SPD clipless pedals. I ended up with a very comfortable and fast bike that cost very little money and still able to climb steep hills. Most of the parts I scrounged from reuse shops, ebay, and aliexpress. Don't believe the hype that expensive components are necessary.
5:00 grinding big gears and spinning wildly, that's just how most of us live life 😂
what i want to see is, you take a retro frame built to accept a modern group set, gears breaks, di2, tires, the works, and see how close a retro steel frame could be, performance wise, to a modern super-bike.
with environmental concern about building carbon fiber bikes, and steel being far more eco-friendly, it would be a worthwhile test.
Steel is too compliant. Bikes with frames build from steel will always lose in power transfer and acceleration.
@@kpsig let's see it in practice then.
just finished restoring a vintage steel race bike with friction dt shifters. Your comment about not wanting to shift is spotv on. the amount of energy to reach down, bslsnce, execute the shift and come back adds up. Its like riding 12 different singlespeeds.
I would expect a small advantage for the Merckx in the hub and BB bearings. Campy bearings have always been magically smooth, while the chinese hubs tgat come on most modern inexpensive bikes are tight and crunchy. If you guys took the time to open the hubs up and lube and properly adjust the bearings, it might close this gap a bit. I can only guess at the actual size (in W) of this advantage... 10W?
I doubt it is even that great, there is so much leverage working against the bearings in both the wheels and the crank that the actual impact of any difference is bound to be slight. I've repaired bikes that you couldn't turn an axle or spindle by hand, while the owner couldn't even tell there was anything amiss. I think the choice of grease would likely make a bigger difference than bearing quality.
Every cup and cone hub I have ever used came tight from the factory, not just cheap Chinese ones. The Shimanos I build wheels from all need a proper adjustment after laceup so they don't destroy themselves. But the wattage loss there is minimal, and not even quantifiable compared to the difference owed to a 1kg weight difference or cheap tires vs. sewups.
@@jbarner13 That still absolutely counts for a couple of watts, and that was friction with no load. With 50kg of weight pushing down and 200 watts of power pulling forward bearings do make a difference.
People who ride bikes with axles that can't be turned by hand and don't notice are by definition not good judges of proper bike function.
@@krisjones74 You just keep telling yourself that. Seriously, though, I recall working with a guy who prided himself in his ability to get a "perfect" adjustment with a Campy Record hub, until one day we showed him that he needed to adjust the hub so it was correct AFTER clamping down the QR. Even that amount is not a difference the rider would ever notice, though it might be possible to measure. He certainly didn't comment on how much faster his bike seemed to be after he changed his adjustment technique--probably because he couldn't tell the difference.
Fascinating vid thanks for making. About tube shifters - having had them for about 20 years including overlapping with indexed handlebar ones, I think the lack of indexing is a red herring. Moving your hand away from the brakes is a bigger issue IME. Not to mention getting stabbed in the knee if you come off unlucky (happened to me, needed stitches). BUT overall you can manage fine with them. Also, encourages you to plan your shifts ahead of time, not just reacting. No bad thing.
The times were better on the lugged steel frame because of a tighter modulus of elasticity. Stretching out puts more weight on the handlebars, plants the front wheel on the ground, increases control without bouncing the bike back and forth , thus speed.
You also looked like you were climbing in the same cadences, mentioning you had a couple of gears lower than what you were climbing on on the modern bike. IOW, 42-23 was faster than 39-28 or whatever lower gears. The steel bike climbs better because it springs back energy, whereas the aluminum rig steals energy on every stroke.
So basically, the lugged steel Columbus frame is superior to it's cheap aluminum counterpart, and at mile 85, probably more comfortable. 32 spoked wheels are stiffer and deliver power to the road more efficiently and climb better than those cheaper wheels on the modern bike.
Down tube friction shifters are a piece of cake once you learn how to work them. The short cable run makes shifting very responsive. When the cable frays at the shifter, it's very easy to replace. The levers never wear out.
Some great insight here Paul! Sounds like a you are a steel bike lover! Have you got any nice retro bikes or are you rocking a modern steel rig? 👀 The Triban is a great option for those that are looking for an affordable bike for day to day life, the retro build is a real collectors item that can still hold it's own 🙌
@@gcn Well, I bought a DeRosa, SL, SLX seat tube, when Gita started importing his frames in '84, all Campy Super Record, the obvious best option back then, the same model Eddy Merckx rode at the end of his racing career. I' paid $1400 for it assembled by the local bike shop, rode it 75,000 miles, never looked back, and still have it, never feeling the urge to "upgrade" to aluminum or carbon.
Your tests reveal the truth! Built up another custom frame, SL, SLX, SP, a year later with fenders, rack, and 28mm tires, Campy Record components, also ridden about 75,000 miles, mostly commuting. The DeRosa was always the long distance adventure bike. Flat fork crowns are amazing shock absorbers.
Haven't "raced" in years, so the 22-24 pound weights are not a handicap. 36 spoke wheels are bulletproof. I've maintained the bikes fully with a small collection of tools Campy made in the '80s.
No proprietary parts, all still available, including cup and cone threaded bottom brackets and 6 speed freewheels. How many gears do you need?
Both bikes are great examples of Grant Peterson's "manual bikes." Steel is real. Your example is a work of art! It stole the show!
I’d love to see this Triban compared with entry level, mid range, high end bikes from the 80s, 90s, 00s, maybe even the 10s.
Also consider, the Triban can be fitted with racks, wider tires for gravel, swap cassettes for range or closer spacing, mud guards....you can the same bike for many types of rides. The same cannot be said of the vintage super bike.
very true! Versatility is super important for lots of riders... one bike certainly makes a better commuter!
Ah, my first road bike, a steel Peugeot, had shifters on the down tube - definitely agree indexed shifters were a massive leap forward, but it's quite fun when you get a lever shift spot on!
Will say this Simon, if you have or had the 'privilege' of keeping that extraordinary Merckx bike for your personal collection, replica or not, you are a very lucky man indeed. Watching you ride the Merckx...I grew up riding bikes of this genre, its looks so much cooler than the modern bike. There are many factors as you suggest that comprise a 'metric' basis for the time difference between bikes. A list of probably 10 factors. But it runs both ways because of time lost due to gearing and fumbling on the Merckx for the best gear where gear choices were more limited.
To me, a split the baby compromise as to best bike scenario would be...a more modern mechanical Campagnolo groupset...10 or 11s on that Merckx chassis with ordinary albeit sporty clinchers would be the sweet spot. Softness aka flex of steel is such a joy to ride. Cake and eat it too.
Cheers from America.
It's a super cool bike isn't it! What was your favourite retro bike that you got your hands on? - If you would like to see more of this bike Si's GCN+ doc is the place to catch it 👉 gcn.eu/1969 - You can't beat a neo-retro build 🙌 What would your dream retro build be?
My solution to handlebar hood position on my vintage bike, new when purchased 😊 has always been to tighten the clamp so the bars can be moved with a bit of effort, tight enough so they never ever slip, it’s great for climbing out of the saddle then when I push drops down a touch to raise the hoods😀
I would choose the Eddy Merckx every day. Just a gorgeous looking bike. I much prefer my "velo ancien" over my carbon fibre modern one. More comfortable, and feels more responsive. Love the beeps, by the way...🤣
3:58. Actually, the non-index shifters were often on the handlebars before they were moved to the down tube and replaced with index shifters in the late 1980s, early 1990s.
I'll take the vintage steel bike any day of the week. Did you find that the fork might have been a bit more compliant? With the 24 or 22 to 42 ratios, you also had to develop some strength too and not just spin. It was more of a mix between cadence and bruit strength. If you didn't grow up with that you just didn't develop it. I will give it to the first index shifting on the brake levels and hyper glide, it was a real game changer.
Why hyperglide? Could you explain it a bit more in detail?
@@stefunkypunky116 the way the chain transitioned into the next gear was smoother due to better arrangement of the teeth and the little shaved bits off the teeth ends made the chain engagement so much smother. Now its a given and everyone is doing it. I've got an older DuraAce free wheel that predates that knowledge. It works but its just not as quick or smooth to transition. The cassettes are also a lot nicer to work with. Free wheels are a real bugger to remove most times.
@Chris Harper I am building up a nice Pinarello steel bike with Shimano 600 tricolore group (2x8, uniglide) from around '90 combined with a Shimano Claris break lever and shifter. Do you think that combination will shift that much worse? (When I had it SIS frame shifter, it switched really crispy and fast)
@@stefunkypunky116 I would think you'll be okay. Uniglide lead into HG and things became more standardized. UG won't fit a HG hub but if you have UG on hand, go for it. Check HG chain compatibility but I suspect it would work just fine.
Got the Triban RC120 in 2021 for commuting, i changed the Brakes for some cheap cable activated hydraulic ones and the tires to tubeless Schwalbe pro one i had lying around, very good cheap bike!