How to REPLACE A YARD HYDRANT | FARMSKILLZ
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
- Step-by-step removal of a failed yard hydrant and the installation of a new Woodford IOWA Y-34 Freezeless Yard Hydrant. Buy one here: amzn.to/2UzvUpp. This video also includes steps to turn off your power at the panel and emptying your pressure tank. All with a little comedy.
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#HowToReplaceAYardHydrant #WoodfordIowa #DIYPlumbing - Навчання та стиль
Why didn’t you check for leaks prior to backfilling
Great point Michael! I failed to record that part, nor did I mention it in the video. Definitely an important step. Thank you.
How is that done? If you don't mind me asking, I'm about to replace one and just making sure I'm going in prepared as can be
Leak check would involve charging the system with water and while everything is closed looking/feeling for drips coming from your plumbing connections, turning on the hydrant and making sure water flows from the hydrant with no problems, turning off the hydrant and making sure water drains from the drain opening before backfilling.
To check is water is draining from hydrant, put your palm on outlet, you should feel suction
If
Thanks so much. This 68 year old gal from Maryland appreciates your help. I dug the hole and am letting the plumber do the rest because I have no wrenches. Really like your sense of humor.
Thanks Christine! I appreciate that. Way to get in there and get dirty. Not a lot of people know how to do that anymore!
I love your work ethic and attention to detail. Thanks very much for the video. Now I just need to find my frost line!
Haha, thanks Deb! I wonder if you find what climate zone you are in if it corresponds with frontline. I know up in Montana and colder climates, water lines are set up to 6’ deep. Yikes!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm I am in the mountains of California where we get snow. I think it might be 2 feet.
Very informative
Thanks Joe!
Assisted a few times on "the dig part" for repair at a friends retreat at Davis Lake. Quite a process.....Great video!
Thanks for the comment Bruce! The dig always needs some good volunteers!
The extra details you add to your videos are extremely helpful. Thank you for "thinking out loud" so that the rest of us can benefit from your experience. I just subscribed.
Thanks for the comment Michael!
Great informative video, dude. Especially that little trick of using pipe dope under the teflon tape. Wish I woulda known that about 40 years ago. Cheers
Thanks Lawrence! Yeah, the pipe dope trick saved me a lot of time over the years. Best to you my friend!
Thanks, excellent video . Picked up lots of tips.
Thank you Glenda! Glad it helped.
Very well done!!! Excellent directions and procedures
Hey, thanks a lot Randy! I appreciate that!
I'm dealing with good ol' springtime in Idaho. Having to replace 2 hydrants, but I've noticed the owner used PVC underground. Your video was entertaining and informative enough that I've subscribed, and look forward to watching more!
Hi Russ! Thanks for the sub! One may consider being pretty careful with the PVC to galvanized joint. I always add an additional stake, t-post chunk or whatever I have laying around to anchor the hydrant at the bottom with pipe clamps around the hydrant and stake so there is little to no movement at that joint. Good luck!
absolutely fantastic! , ive always wanted to see what the install looks like, I wish i could subscribe 15 times. Wilder loves your videos as do I.
Well, you can tell Wilder that I love him very much and I love you too brother!
I appreciate the video. Easy to follow and understand.
Thanks Kyle!
Vey good and informative. Cool rebar trick!
Thanks for the comment Paul!!! I have also used heavy duty concrete stakes and shortened T posts in the past.
well done, that is way better than the way my yard hydrant is presently installed.
Thank you, I hope you can get her squared away before it is too late.
“Don’t fake it….this is real life guys. “. So funny BT. You continue to show what an amazingly genuine guy you are. Miss you bro. Keep it all up.
Not sure who this is, but you sound like family! Much love to you and yours. Thanks for dropping a comment!
great job! I appreciate the info ., yes I will test before back filling!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great job, made it look easy. I Like the tape idea. The support was also a good idea.
Thanks Melvin! I appreciate the kind words. I hope you have a great 2023!
Good job, very informative!!
Thank you!
Excellent demonstration
Thank you. I appreciate that!
Hey Brian. Another helpful "trick up the sleeve" is to use a short length of Sonotube (if it's available of course) to contain the gravel for drainage, provide lateral stability and keep the pipe itself from direct contact with ground water through the backfill.
Nice tip! I never thought about a sonotube for this application. Do you think they will last underground? I know they are harder than all get out to peel off a concrete column. Thank you for the comment!!!
Installed two hydrants in our area last year to water the livestock. One of the best improvements on the place! However, I didn't even think of taping the pipes! Dang! Must be specific to your area, as I've never heard of it up here in Northwestern Michigan. Good idea on the gravel bucket, too! Great video! Thanks!
Nice! Yeah you should be fine without the tape for a good long while. I think it probably just adds a little extra protection out here. Our soil can be pretty brutal on things as well as the water. Some wells even have an iron eating bacteria! Yikes!
Thanks for the tips!
You betcha! Thanks for watching!
Woodford is a good brand of hydrant for both residential and commercial use..
I have two on my premise that I installed almost 16 years ago..
No problems, just once in a while I would have to Tighten up the retaining nut below the handle and put a little packing in first
Nice! We are heading into our 10th year on 5 of the hydrants here at the farm and they haven’t needed any maintenance yet.🤞
Really helped me
Glad it helped you!
I changed two out at my buddies farm. I use the sonotube but before that; i stabilized the pipe by bounding the steel T-Post deep down the hole and leave about 6in. above ground level and tie it with five screw clamps! Great job tho!
Nice! Sounds like that lil puppy dawg isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Good on ya!
My hydrate just failed and this is exactly the video I needed!
Sorry to hear that your hydrant failed you. Here is to a successful swap! Best
thanks man.
Hey, any old time partner!
Love the rebar cross supports near the top of the hydrant! I'll do that too! Only thing I had trouble with in your video was when you put your pipe wrench on the outside of the pipe of the hydrant. I've been told to NOT do that and to only put a pipe wrench on the hex on the brass part at the bottom of the hydrant. I put a little 2 1/2" brass nipple (1/8" pipe) into the weep hole and then someone said they put a plastic bottle with the side cut out of it to cover the brass nipple and protect the gravel from wedging over the nipple so when you put the bucket over it and fill it with gravel it has some space that the gravel can't get in to block it off. I like your elbow drainage hack. We have a 39" frostline and we had to get a bury 6' Woodford frost free hydrant. We have clay soil so we were disappointed to see NO gravel around our weep hole and no elbow either! It didn't ever break because of the weep hole getting clogged. The handle broke and we can't adjust the nuts to stop it from dripping all the time. We couldn't have gone through this winter like that. We heard that the Woodford brand frost free hydrants are more trouble free and easier to adjust. We decided to go with that since we don't want to do this again. We only have shovels and a post hole digger. My husband dug for 10 1/2 hours doing steps down to the bottom of the hydrant. I'm so happy you posted your install. Thanks so much! We really don't want to do this again! Our old hydrant was a Conrad which I can't find anything about on the internet. The handle was bending out so it was very hard to close the hydrant and then we couldn't even get it to shut off all the way. So frustrating! We'll like this kind where you don't have to lift the handle all the way to get water and you can adjust the flow. Thanks again!
Hi Kathryn! Glad the video helped. 6’ is a long way down!!! I have had really good luck with poly pipe and stainless fittings for the main hookup. The flexibility and durability of the poly makes a great connection that I don’t worry about breaking. I have had to change so many PVC connections at the base, but never any poly or Pex. Thanks for the comment! Hope your project goes super smooth!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thanks! It'll go well with your help! Just have to unhook and put the new one and new nipple on. I'll try the cross rebar too!
Seen some replacing galvi with brass. The galvi developed a hole which caused a leek.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I have heard of some troubles when you start mixing metals.
Thank you for going into the details and explanations. You have a natural talent to teach. Thank you for making the world a little easier.
Nice! Thank you Matthew. I really appreciate that.
Thanks
You betcha Marvin!
good job
Thank you J King!
Genius!
Thanks Dale!
Just seeing how much you saved us all, that watched this. How much would you charge someone to do this if they already bought the new valve?
There are a lot of factors to consider with the cost of an installation like this. If it is just a straight replacement with no problems in the mainline etc. it would probably be somewhere in the ballpark of $240-500 and take approximately 4 hours to complete. However, if there are issues with other plumbing the price could go way up. One may consider hiring a licensed plumber for the job. Best to you Aron!
Hell yeah - I too often toss aside Debras
Haha. Debras everywhere!
helps to make sure the packing nut isn’t frozen before installing … I have two brand new Woodford hydrants that need replaced because the packing can’t be tightened up!
That is a great piece of advice! We had one that needed adjusting and it was already super tight. We just barely were able to get it to stop dripping. Thanks for the comment!!!
Great video, thanks! Why did you change the 90 degree street elbow, though? Is there often a problem with that being clogged or something?
The water in our area has an iron eating bacteria that causes buildup on the inside of fittings eventually restricting the flow. Any plumbing I get into around here I end up changing out a few fittings. Thanks for the great question!
Curious LOL, the "What can I do now so I'll never have mess with this PITA again" ideas people can come up with . . .
I need you to do a video on the filter. That is interesting. My water is so full of iron its crazy
Next time I install one I will try and make a video about it. Is the iron in particulate form like from the sides of your well casing? Or more of a discoloration?
Awesome video. I'm looking at getting a few of the Y34's. What I can't get my head around is how does the weep hole not leak while the hydrant is in use?
I pondered that for awhile too. Pretty sure the plunger seals against the drain hole opening when the plunger is pulled up and water flows through the Little curved profile part of the fitting. Pretty ingenious design really.
You are correct, the plunger seals the main water line flow when the handle is down and opens the drain hole. When the handle is up the plunger seals the drain hole and allows water to flow through up to the faucet. Very well designed and has been around for years.
@@toneycollins6377 I love good designs that work!
Boy the next guy is gonna hate you in 100 years lol
Haha, that’s the goal. At least it isn’t me!
@@BidwellCanyonFarm You never know. They might forget to turn off the hydrant in a year or two and have you come back and dig out all those rocks again! lol
Pipe dope holds the tepline holds in place that one up on me
It comes in pretty handy!!!
The Teflon tape should be put on first before the dope so it is a tighter bond. Just using the dope is fine on a metal to metal contact. The tape is good on plastic pipes and can be used on metal but isn't really necessary. I use tape only when I fear contamination.
Thanks for the comment! I will probably stick to the tape over the dope, since it has worked for me without fail for nearly two decades, not to mention the time it saves hassling with tape slippage (especially when working in a hole or trench). Is there some science out there with a case for the tape under?
Thx for great video…what would you charge for what ya just did, labor and material, and how long was total job?
There was probably $200 wrapped up in parts and $450 for 6 hours of labor at $75/hr. $650 total for what was done in this video.
I’ve got a slow underground leak running to my hydrant. In your opinion would replacing the plunger possibly fix it? I have noticed a difference in tension opening and closing the lever
Hi Robert, sometimes you can make adjustments to the plunger travel nuts at the handle. These can usually be adjusted to increase travel or decrease travel depending on what you need. You could also get a replacement plunger kit and replace the plunger without having to dig anything up. Hope this helps!
Question - mine just froze and there it’s noticeably cracked on the red portion where it threads onto the steel pipe. Do you think I can just swap out the handle to avoid digging up the entire 5 feet of dirt?
I would say most likely, I have never swapped the head out myself so I don’t know for sure. I hope you find a way to save yourself from digging! Good luck
@@BidwellCanyonFarm The head could be changed if you can get it off. Most likely it is rusted tight. When I had one freeze I removed the handle, pulled the rod out and welded the head. You must use cast iron welding rod. It helps to warm the head up with a torch a bit before you weld it.
I have to replace a hydrant in my backyard it's the only hydrant I have and I'm wondering if I should bleed off the pressure at the hydrant because the pump is under the house in the crawl space then I worry about having to prime the pump afterwards
So Jay, you do not have a submersible pump correct? It is one that sits on top of the well casing and draws water up from the well through a pipe right?
I know this is an old video. There was a hydrant in the yard when I moved in.... although it was run over and just pulled out.... can I dig and put in another hydrant new one due to I have to do another one that froze this winter as well..... or do I have have to dig the whole yard up ...
All you would have to is to dig up each spot where the water line is and you want your hydrants might need to T into the mainline where you want to add the new one, but the location of the old one should be pretty easy. Do you know why it froze? Make sure your water lines are deep enough, or else it might be the whole yard.😬
Just curious as to why you didnt just replace the head and stem instead of whole unit ?? Was it leaking at the well ??
Thanks for the comment. Personally, I would rather put in a new Woodford and let the next generation worry about it. I have no idea what make the original was, nor if I could track down pieces and parts for it. Not quite sure what you mean by leaking at the well? Is that what you call the base of the unit?
I purchased a Woodford Y-34 3 Ft Bury 1in. x 3/4 in NPT x MPT galvanized steel pipe yard hydrant, like the one you installed in this video.
I don't have it yet and am wondering what size are the threads at the bottom where it will connect to a 90 degree street elbow. I want to make sure I
can get the correct fittings for my installation. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi there Rich, thanks for the comment! You are going to want to pick up a 3/4” NPT street 90. The 3/4” MPT (Male Pipe Thread) on the bottom of the hydrant is also a NPT (National Pipe Tapered) fitting. It just lets you know if it is male or female.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thank you for your quick response to my question. Your expert video and tips on this installation will assist any novice to
accurately replace any similar yard hydrant. I have subscribed and will watch more of your videos, also recommending you to my friends.
@ Brian - I installed my yard hydrant just the same as you did here including the rebar braces which help to secure side to side support. Also I used a plastic bucket with cleaned washed gravel in the hole around the bottom of the hydrant for necessary drainage. My old pump failed because of dirt in the small drain hole and froze in winter months. Your installation video was a great help and I hope you continue to provide similar videos. Thank You !.
What exactly was the layment you put on top of the gravel bucket ? Also is making the standpipe connection to a poly pipe mainline the same process ?
Hi Carlos, that product is called prodex. It was a scrap piece of house wrap radiant barrier i had leftover from a job. It is not for this application but it works. You can use anything that won’t allow fine dirt or silt into the gravel in the bucket. It probably isn’t even necessary, but i like to put something over my buckets. I actually have a video connecting poly pipe to a yard hydrant. The process is a bit different. Let me know if you find it. 🙏
@@BidwellCanyonFarm thanks , just got done watching it , very informative .
✊
🤙
Nice job! What do you charge for this job? thanks.
I charge time and materials as well as a materials handling fee so i think all in all this came out right around $500.
Can you put a link for the 90-degree elbow into the drain valve please? Thank you!
amzn.to/3LdzvEi 1/8” Street elbow
@@BidwellCanyonFarm Thank you!
Hey what size 90 degree elbow (threads ) did you use for the drain port on the hydrant
Hey Mike, it is a 1/8” iron pipe thread. I like to use a street 90 coming out of the hydrant in stainless or brass then a short nipple facing downward, a 2 to 3” oughta do the trick.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm also my area calls for a 36 inch depth pipe but the spec sheet says that will give you a 27 inches above ground for the Spicket. Would it be OK if I went with the next size longer hydrant so it’s higher off the ground I don’t need to bend over as far for every time for hooking it hose up.
I have a tiny leak at the elbow on mine and it has only been in the ground for a few years. I dug it up and found a small drip, is there a way to seal the leak without digging up more and replacing anything? A friend said he could touch weld it at the spot it's leaking and seal it as it isn't spraying just dripping about a drip every 1.5 -2 seconds. Thanks for any help.
Not that i know of William. Sometimes sediment from the wall will plug it up over time without having to do anything. Are you on a well? Or city water?
@@BidwellCanyonFarm City water, i counted and the little triangle on the meter makes a complete turn in 10 seconds. Will a drop every second or two do this? or will it be a bigger leak? Thank you so much for your help, I am on a fixed income and any help is greatly appreciated as I have to do the work myself.
Whats the size of that drain elbow? 1/8in?
Yes. 1/8" drain elbow. I like using stainless even though it is a bit more expensive. Brass would be the next best. I also like to put a 2" nipple pointing down out of the bottom of the elbow to make it extra hard for sediment to travel up the drain spout. Thanks for the comment!
Where did you pick up the stainless steel drain plug/valve?
Hi Daniel, I swooped those lil puppy dogs up on Amazon. Got them awhile ago. Not sure what the availability/price is looking like these days.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm, thank you!
Ugh. I am watching this because our hydrant just like that failed. That plunger thing bent, so it can turn on, but good luck shutting it off! We got a different kind to match the rest of our hydrants (that all work great and can’t bend at that weak point), but we only got the top part, thinking we could just unscrew the top and screw on a new one....apparently that’s not how this is going to work and we need the whole giant expensive thing. It’s in a bad spot so we might just cap it and not use it.
Bummer! Sorry to hear that. Hope you figure out a good solution so you never have to go there again. Best of luck homie!
what size was that drain plug elbow?
Drain plug is a 1/8” stainless street 90
Priming the well after?
Do you have any sort of shutoff between the pump and the hydrant? Just close that, then turn off water heater breakers, then undo hydrant. Might have to wait awhile till the water drains into the soil.
Can't you just replace the faucet itself or you have to do the whole stem?
Hey Tiger, often times you can replace just the guts. I’m this instance the top was cracked and could not be fixed.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm ok thanks the problem im having with mine is I can open it up all the way but there's not a whole lot of pressure like there used to be and when I turn it off it doesn't leak so I'm not sure what the problem is with that.
How you know there no leaks b4 u fill it in
I tested the pressure while the camera battery was kaput, backfilled the hole etc. and didn’t feel like digging it back up to film the pressure test. Oops!
I used a brass elbow for the drain, any ideas how it compares to SS. Anyway my wife didn’t want me install like I did before, the PVC broken, lasted 8 years. I’m a cancer survivor and lost a lot of strength. The company that did didn’t recommend the bucket/gravel even though I used it before.
Hi Mark, Brass makes for a fine drain as well. I really like the poly pipe for my hydrant installs nowadays. For one, it is way cheaper than pvc right now and the natural flexibility of it alleviates the cracking like you get with the pvc. As long as you install it in a bed of sand, which helps avoid rocks from kinking it, i feel like it will last a long long time. I have always used the gravel and bucket method, but i am sure you will be fine without it, as long as there is not a lot of clay or fines in your sand that could potentially plug it up. Glad to hear you made it through the battle with cancer. Next step get your strength back. Maybe some yoga? Thanks for the comment! Best to you and yours. -Brian
Thanks I had metastatic melanoma, cured now after 5 years. Immunotherapy made me weak, the Yervoy. They wrote down to use 1/2 play sand then 1/2 topsoil. Red dirt (clay) in Oklahoma. Would that be Ok, to not use gravel. They used pex to make the connection. I’m on a well, and yes they checked the well tank.
Also please wear sunscreen, a big hat and good sun glasses.
@@markpurdin9900 Copy that!
Where did you buy the stainless steel elbow that you screwed into the elbow at 7:45 into the video? Thanks!
Why did you not simply service the existing hydrant? How did it "fail?"
Hi Gary. Apparently the hydrant split after a hard freeze with a hose connected to it. No service could bring that baby back.
Why do you need to replace the elbow ?
The water is super hard on galvanized fittings out here. I have found some of them nearly sealed shut from mineral buildup. I found it easier to replace them while I am down there.
hey, do you know the make and model of the hydrant you took out?"
Wish i could help you, but i can’t. I might be able to find it online tho.
@@BidwellCanyonFarm i've been looking for a long time but cant, i have the same one and have a part on it broken, been trying to find replacement parts for it
Absolutely no galvanized fittings!
I agree! Been using a lot of stainless fittings lately! How about you?
how much do you charge for a job like this?
With labor, materials, travel, etc. you can expect to pay $500-750 if you hire this out. If you DIY, you are looking at $250-$350 depending on fittings needed, etc..
plumb
Yep
Problem never disclosed…. Water table, (sewer affluent), etc., will enter your drain, freeze and burst your hydrant.
Eww sounds gruesome! Luckily this one didn’t have anything like that going on. It was a cracked head. I think it must have had a hose hooked to it when the temperature dropped below freezing and split the head wide open.
Must be nice not to have your hole full of water because the previous owner buried it next to the well!
You betcha!
Oh...is THAT why I'm digging in a foot and a half of wet clay right now?
I knew what I was getting into with digging a 2x2x2 hole by hand in my region (well, I did forget about the whole network of pine tree roots and runners from all the bushes planted around it), but I didn't reckon on it filling with water faster than I could dig.
My main concern is that I can't see anything in the hole as I dig. The well guy told me I need to watch for an electrical wire. I thought he meant running to the hydrant, but now I'm thinking he means the wire going from the house to the pump. Either way there will also be the pipe coming in and probably a wire somewhere running from/to whatever.
Maybe I should turn the power off for the last 8 inches or so of the hole depth?
No leak check prior to filling in your hole? Maybe you didn’t video it.
By the time I realized the camera was not recording, i had already backfilled the hole. 😬 so i went with it.
Hii man! hope you are well! nice channel like the video also! keep it up! if you have time please visit my new commercial video about bmw and corona haha i hope you like it
Thanks dude! I will scope it out.
MASSIVE pipe wrench?
Sure, there’s bigger pipe wrenches out there Early. I take it you have used some?
Good advice with water heater breaker, pipe dope, bucket of gravel, rebar, and tape. Why not just rebuild the valve with new packing rings, nuts, and dick?? Replacing the whole thing, buried elbow and all seem over kill.
Hi Jerry, The head was cracked on the old hydrant, think it must have froze with a hose hooked to it. 😬