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How to Repair the Woodford Y34 Frostproof Hydrant
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
- When a frostproof hydrant develops a drip or won’t shut off completely, the repair is probably easier than you think! In the rare case that the cast head cracks, that’s an easy replacement too! We’ll show you!
#yardhydrant #frostprooffaucet #woodford
Most of the time for these types of yard hydrants, the repair isn’t a repair at all; it’s a simple adjustment! These durable devices are serviced up top at the handle, without digging anything up, except for VERY rare cases.
In this episode, we’ll show you both how to do adjustments to the faucet head, as well as replace the entire head. If the casting on the main faucet head is cracked (like ours), the top part of the faucet needs to be replaced. Even so, due to the ingenious design of these types of faucets, you WON’T have to dig up the faucet - all the work is done at the top of the unit. Spiffy, huh?
There are several manufacturers of frostproof yard hydrants, including Merrill Manufacturing® (www.merrillmfg.com), Woodford Manufacturing® (www.woodfordmfg.com), as well as Home Depot’s brand (Everbilt®), and Lowes ProPlumber®.
We were able to obtain replacement parts easily from Woodford Manufacturing. Simply visit their website at www.woodfordmfg.com to get started.
While they have different appearances and features (our Woodford® sports a handy adjuster for setting the “full-open” flow rate, as well as stopping accidental openings of the valve), they all operate using similar methods.
The valve body is located below the frost line in the soil. Various depths are available to suit your situation. The valve body is actuated by a pull rod that is attached to the handle. The valve is turned on and off using the handle that has an off-center cam that applies needed pressure to shut off the valve when the handle is in the off position.
In addition, the valve body is designed to drain water into the soil when the valve is shut off. This evacuates water from both the riser pipe (the pipe that extends from the valve body up to the handle/spigot assembly) and the valve body itself. This all but eliminates the possibility of freezing the valve, rendering it inoperable, as well as splitting the riser in freezing temperatures.
If your valve starts dripping or won’t shut off properly, the odds are highly in your favor that all that is needed is an adjustment of the pull rod to allow it to close more. WARNING! Be sure to turn off the water to your valve before making this adjustment or you will “enjoy” a flood of water!
Here are the basic steps to adjusting the pull rod
Here are the basic steps to replacing the cast head of the Woodford® Hydrant:
Have these tools and supplies on hand: two large pipe wrenches, an adjustable wrench, pipe compound or plumbing tape, and a flat-blade screwdriver.
Turn off the water supply and open the hydrant using the lever.
Loosen the cam and clevis assembly with the adjustable wrench.
Loosen the packing nut using the same wrench.
Use the two large pipe wrenches, in an opposing grip, one on the riser pipe and the other on the main cast faucet head.
Rotate the head counter-clockwise to remove it and the operating pipe assembly.
Separate the head and rod components. Inspect the components while the unit is disassembled, and service as needed.
Dig out the packing material using the flat-blade screwdriver. Make sure that no pieces of the packing material remain.
Put the bottom packing nut washer in the packing nut recess, then the packing material, then install and HAND-TIGHTEN the packing nut.
Place the operating assembly back into the riser pipe.
Clean the riser pipe threads and apply fresh pipe thread compound or plumbing tape
Slip the cast hydrant head down over the rod and through the packing material and nut, taking care to not damage the packing material.
Thread the faucet head casting onto the riser pipe and tighten properly by using the pipe wrenches in opposing grips on the faucet head and riser pipe and turning the head clockwise.
Turn the main water valve back on, and check for leaks. Tighten the packing nut only enough to stop leaking.
Enjoy your well-adjusted and durable yard hydrant!
If you’d like to see a repair overview video from Woodford Manufacturing, visit the link just below. You’ll learn 3 different procedures: 1.) Adjusting the pull rod to get the correct “snap” that will assure the valve is closed properly in the valve body below the frost line; 2.) How to remove and replace the plunger that operates within the valve body, and, 3.) how to remove, replace, and adjust the main cast head in case of damage or cracking.
• Woodford Y34 IOWA Yard...
Sure, you can call a plumber to do this repair for you, but why? With what you’ve learned from Dirtfarmer Jay, you can JUST DO IT YOURSELF.
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Very well made and edited video. Excellent repair demo!
Thanks so much for your common sense approach to this repair! I can't thank you enough for your experience, your confidence and being an all around nice man! God bless you and yours!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I was able to fix a hydrant at the barn I volunteer at using the info you provided at the 13:30 mark.
Glad it helped!
Thanks so much for doing this video! We bought a Woodford Y34 for our farm hydrant because our old one wouldn't stop dripping no matter what we tried. I'm so glad to see that the new hydrant we installed can be repaired from the top. Ours is a bury 6' so we don't want to dig down that deep again! There was no way to fix the old hydrant! I'm even more sure that the hydrant we picked is the one we need!
That is awesome! Our Woodford is a great unit and we think you'll have the same experience. Best, DFJ
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
Morning!
Thank you for "hearing" bout shuting off the water b4 working on it
You bet
Thank you just want I needed 🙏
Woodford hydrants are the best
David, I agree with you. They are the standard that others are measured against. Best, DFJ
When we have the plunger out and it's dirty, does it work to turn the water on for a few seconds to help clean it out
Yes, you can do that. It will just make the area around the hydrant muddy unless you have gravel or bark to work on. And, you'll need only a few seconds. Best, DFJ
@DirtFarmerJay I did that before I put the new plunger back in, cause the old one was covered in rust bits. Didn't want that junk to be left down there and ruin the new one
Will the adjustment made at the end of the video help if the snap is adjusted too tight and is making it extremely difficult to open and close? It’s summertime and the farm we just bought requires a lot of force to open and close and I am suspecting that the linkage for the snap is adjusted way too tight
Yes it will. You'll need to experiment a bit, but when properly adjusted, the snap is pretty easy to accomplish and is easier on the hydrant components. Let me know how it turns out! Best, DFJ
If you dont pull the plunger/rod out do you still need to shut the water off? I only need to replace the head.
Yes, you'll need to turn off the water. As soon as the tension is released on the connecting rod to the valve body, you'll have quite a geyser. Best, DFJ
Dumb question. Where do you turn the water off?? In a house you have a valve but this is outside? Would like to add an external water source to my lake homes existing well. For if/when SHTF scenario or lose electricity. Thanks. Luv your channel!
Tom, I'm sorry I didn't get to this until now. I'm not sure where it would be on your property, but a typical layout is that there is a main shut off inside the house. If the house has a basement, it's typically there, somewhere near the utility room. As for the outside, I've seen it in a sprinkler/utility box somewhere near the front door, as it is where irrigation systems are plumbed and wired to. Since you've written this 2 months ago, have you had any success in locating your lines? Thanks for the kind comment as well. Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay Thanks for responding. My main shutoff is in the basement utility room. I’m trying to see if/where I could place a hand well pump in case electricity goes out. Would I need a separate well or can I tie into my existing well? Guessing a new well would be needed. Great channel. How long have you been doing this? Great topics with clear simple directions!! Love the channel!!
Agreed Tom, Dirt Farmer is my new Go To Guy! @@tomhorrigan5769
Can this model be used in reverse ? … ie., as a way to periodically feed water into the system by attaching a garden hose from an outside faucet to the hydrant outlet, when finished detaching the hose , shut off the hydrant, and outside faucet …Does it have a backflow preventer?
I don't know. It doesn't have a backflow preventer, but you could add one. I don't see why you couldn't, it doesn't depend on the direction of the flow of the water to operate correctly. I hope this helps!
What would cause the water to just let a small stream come out when open
I suspect your handle is set to not open the valve enough when you put the valve in the upright position. Is this something new, or has the hydrant been "misbehaving" for some time? You need to position the lifter rod a bit higher in the handle so when you lift the handle, the plunger at the end of the rod down in the valve body opens more and lets a full stream of water flow. Let me know how this turns out for you! Best, DFJ
Before y'all start working on these things, make sure you got a couple of BIG pipe wrenches. I'm off to H freight and spend 50 more bucks on this primitive piece of junk. I'm used to dealing with ball valves 😉
LOL!
DOES THIS SUCK WATER OUT OF THE GROUND?
Nope, this is connected to the water system but the lines to it are buried below the frost line so that the hydrant has access to unfrozen water even with the temps above ground are below freezing. Make sense? Best, DFJ