Your explanation and step by step is super clear. Outstanding instruction. Redundant timing markings, and in my case, taking pictures as I go, gives me the confidence to reassemble. Thanks!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs then i gotta ask you....i have my top off, but im worry about the vvt the cam whell can turn a little if you know what i mean . when i install it, should i turn the whell all the way to the left before i time the marks or ? hope you know what i mean, but no one has shown that on their videos
Just did my fourth belt today and I wish I would have seen the tip of backing up the crank one tooth for the slack. I fought forever to get the timing right despite using the camshaft locking tool in the back and some sprocket lockers in the front. You'll always learn something new from every video. Thanks a lot dude! BTW the crank nut is 30mm
I can't thank you enough for sharing all this with us. For me it's $2,000 and a long day in an uncomfortable place vs trying it myself in the shade of my driveway and spending $100 (?) or so on parts. I haven't decided 100% either way, but this has been very useful - even if I chicken out and have it done. Edit: slight breather: my Volvo's belt is also original and it's at 125K. So a littler pressure taken off there.
If you do decide to do this, just take your time. Make sure that you have little interruptions so you can focus. Some will take pictures at certain steps to reference if they have questions on how to put it back together. Good Luck
I'm going to give this a go with my 2005 XC90, it only has 87000 kilometers on the clock but has never had a belt change (so 19 years), the original belt shows no cracks that I can see as the belt is still installed. I liked the fact that you've done this without special tools (no rear cam lock and no crank lock).
After you have installed the belt and tensioner properly, it is recommended to put the top cover on and visually inspect your timing marks, then phe crankshaft pully nut in the crank shaft, then using a 30mm socket and large ratchet, turn the crankshaft at least two turns to make sure that the timing marks continue to line back up and there is no binding of the crank or cam shafts. This will give you confidence to eventually fire up the engine without having a disaster.
Always rotate the crankshaft two full turns once you have the tensioner set and before you start putting things back together. You need to make sure things stay lined up after rotating.
Very good video. I'm guessing that you have to remove the serpentine belt first, right? At 5.30, I think you misspoke when you said timing belt tensioner when you really meant drive belt. Another thing for those planning on doing this, get OEM belts and water pump from dealer or good quality parts from FCP Euro or IPD USA. I am now replacing my water pump at 160k (replaced at 100k) because the shop that did it used a NAPA TFW water pump and NAPA belt. The WP is leaking.
Yes, the drive belt needs to come off. Using cheap parts is OK when a car is as old as this one. There is no way it has another 100K in it. But for a newer car, or one that you want to put a lot more miles on, yes, use OEM parts. Maybe not branded parts, but find the original maker of the parts and buy them.
Thanks! I'm about to pull out a engine and put it in another car, Volvo V70 07 diesel. I plan to do the timing belt and the clutch when the engine is out of the car
Thank you Eric for this detailed procedure. I recently replaced O rings in the oil pan and replaced the PCV breather due to low oil pressure. With everything reinstalled, I have no oil pressure at all. I tried turning the engine over with the starter and no coils connected to the plugs; the oil pressure light did not extinguish. Does this sound like the oil pump needs replacing? 2001 V70XC original owner, 173K miles. Thanks!
You likely have crud caught up in the screen for the oil pump from replacing the PCV system. I've had that happen a few times on these cars over the years. You'll need to drop the pan again and remove the oil pick up tube. Once it's out, clean it out with brake cleaner from the top side down to flush out the crud. If you want to try this, sometimes....OK rarely but still. You can instead turn the engine backward by hand (at the crank with a wrench.) By doing this for maybe 1/2 a turn, you are pushing whatever oil is in the pump and system backward back down the oil pickup tube. If you are lucky it will push the crud that is clogging the screen out and the car will have oil pressure. If this works, stop the car and change the oil to try and get that crud out of the pan and keep it from reclogging the screen. Good luck!
Hello Kevin , I wanted to check with you regarding the repair/ solution to your engine oil pressure (warning light on) issue . Can I ask what the fix was ? Any information would be appreciated !
It’s fixed. I removed the pan and cleaned it out again. Replaced o-rings again. This time I also replaced o-rings on the tube in the pan that runs from the oil cooler to the oil filter. They were dried and broken. With everything reassembled the oil pressure is fine. Big relief! Thanks!
@@kevinmcgrath7355 Glad to hear that you have fixed it ! Thanks for sharing this information . I have two Volvos in the family and this information will come in handy !!
Great explanation ! I have mine to be done asap. As it looks the same. However very tiny budget, can I just replace the timing belt for the time beeing? Also do I need to remove the pulley?
Awesome video - way more helpful than a lot of the big name youtube pages. Attempting this soon on an 05’ XC90. I’ve been hearing about checking the VVT o-rings and seals when doing this job… is that worth it in your opinion or better to leave them alone if not causing problems?
I've got a 2000 S70, does this video cover the VVT engine as well? I have read that you have to "pre-tension" the system first by advancing the engine clockwise to the point where the timing marks line up, then continue clockwise 90 degrees and then rotate the engine back, counterclockwise, to the marks.
Yes, it's the same from 1998 to 2007. No, you don't need to pre-tension anything. I've done maybe 3000 of these belts in the last 20 years. You don't need to do that.
If you don't rotate the gears clockwise before mounting the new timing belt, the timing marks on the gears and engine may not align correctly. This misalignment can result in the engine's valves opening or closing at the wrong time, which can lead to serious engine damage.
I"m doing this, taking copious notes from the video. Given how crucial keeping everything aligned is, wouldn't marking the gears and the BELT and then transferring those belt markings to the new belt be a fail safe way of doing it?
Would this video cover a 2005 XC90 2.9 l t6. We did the belt already but now getting a code saying camshaft crankshaft sensor position. It seems to run fine but when we are doing the original installation of the belt we were looking at a 2.5 l video and now we don't know if the belt is in perfect timing. What do we do if we don't know if the belt is exactly where it should be. Thanks
Yes, this is the same for the 6 cylinder. Did you mark the gears like I did in the video before removal? If so, pull the top cover and rotate the engine by hand until all the marks line up. If they do, you are looking at a VVT solenoid issue. If no, one of the gears is not in the right spot. If you didn't mark the gears....WHY?!?!? You were asking for issues and it looks like you may have found them. You'll have to pull the belt back off and reset your timing.
I don't- I usually just try to find the best price online- I have learned that for a Volvo- it is better to get the name brand parts than to get cheap off brand-
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I have a 05 xc90 with a 2.5t. On Amazon now to order the cam locking tool lol. Thank you for the reply. Appreciate you taking the time
i gotta ask you....i have my top off, but im worry about the vvt the cam whell can turn a little if you know what i mean . when i install it, should i turn the whell all the way to the left before i time the marks or ? hope you know what i mean, but no one has shown that on their videos
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Okey , thanks . Its just that some says it should be turned left before the marks and - sorry but i got confused about it all, and who dosent wanna make it right the first time ? I did what i use to do in my 30 years as a mechanic . made my own marks with the cams locked , its just that whell and all the opinions that makes me confused . i Follow this and cross my fingers - an old car 22 years, but i absolutely love it . except when my wife drives it and the plastic for the coolant hose to cabin breaks and she decide to drive even 5 more minutes or so EVEN if the car says STOP EMIDIETLY !!! women and old cars.....you spend the same amount on money on both !!!
I do, but it varies from year to year. MIne pictured here is a 2004 (late) there is also an early variation with a slightly smaller tensioner. It's best for you to pull the front cover and verify if your car has the early or late tensioner before ordering.
Did you mark the gear like I showed in this video? If so, you can still time it to true TDC. if not, you are right how can you know where TDC is with movable cams?
Figure on about a half day to do it- Please just take your time and you will be fine. I would have the video close by so you can reference it to help out. I just helped a neighbors son do a timing belt and water pump on a Lexus in about 5 hours
What car are you putting this engine into? More crucially… will you still have a Volvo in the garage after that?! Cheers for a another great Volvo video, Eric! Never knew about that trick with tensioning the belt on the crank either!
The 2001 volvo's transmission went out, so I found a 2004 xc70 where the engine went out. So I am swapping the engine from my old volvo to the new one.
I can speak from experience that you can be a notch out on the timing belt without issues oops! 70,000 miles between one change and getting it wrong and the second time where I checked and looked again and did it right the next time. I had always put the drop in performance down to age as it was at about 230,000 miles the time before.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I know! I was kinda thrilled when I took the chance and corrected it because it had run for so long "out", I was then in that area of doubt. Was it actually right or not?
Yes, but you would need an entire donor car for the pedal swap, mount swap, ECU and wiring swap and transmission swap. Totally and 1200% not worth it. Just buy a used manual and drive it!
Your explanation and step by step is super clear. Outstanding instruction. Redundant timing markings, and in my case, taking pictures as I go, gives me the confidence to reassemble. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
One of the very best Timingbelt change instructions ever. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, I try to make videos that anyone can follow.
Best teacher , blow by blow explanation of each step in perfect detail .
Thanks for the kind words! I tried my best to make a video that anyone would be able to follow.
What a great resource! Very clear and concise. Took me 5 hours for first time.
I have done so many of these in my career. I think I could do them in my sleep
Were you nervous about getting the 3 gears in alignment? Even with all the white markings (which I'd definitely do) it seems a bit iffy.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs then i gotta ask you....i have my top off, but im worry about the vvt the cam whell can turn a little if you know what i mean . when i install it, should i turn the whell all the way to the left before i time the marks or ? hope you know what i mean, but no one has shown that on their videos
Just did my fourth belt today and I wish I would have seen the tip of backing up the crank one tooth for the slack. I fought forever to get the timing right despite using the camshaft locking tool in the back and some sprocket lockers in the front. You'll always learn something new from every video. Thanks a lot dude! BTW the crank nut is 30mm
I am glad that it was helpful, I learned many tricks in my years as a mechanic.
Thank you! This one is actually better then any of the Swedish videos ive seen. Greetings from Sweden
Wow, thanks! I tried to take my time to make it very easy for anyone to follow.
I can't thank you enough for sharing all this with us. For me it's $2,000 and a long day in an uncomfortable place vs trying it myself in the shade of my driveway and spending $100 (?) or so on parts. I haven't decided 100% either way, but this has been very useful - even if I chicken out and have it done. Edit: slight breather: my Volvo's belt is also original and it's at 125K. So a littler pressure taken off there.
If you do decide to do this, just take your time. Make sure that you have little interruptions so you can focus. Some will take pictures at certain steps to reference if they have questions on how to put it back together. Good Luck
I'm going to give this a go with my 2005 XC90, it only has 87000 kilometers on the clock but has never had a belt change (so 19 years), the original belt shows no cracks that I can see as the belt is still installed. I liked the fact that you've done this without special tools (no rear cam lock and no crank lock).
Just take your time and you will be fine.
Great job! The spring clamps are a good idea to keep things aligned.
Thanks! I tried hard to make a video that everyone could follow.
After you have installed the belt and tensioner properly, it is recommended to put the top cover on and visually inspect your timing marks, then phe crankshaft pully nut in the crank shaft, then using a 30mm socket and large ratchet, turn the crankshaft at least two turns to make sure that the timing marks continue to line back up and there is no binding of the crank or cam shafts. This will give you confidence to eventually fire up the engine without having a disaster.
Yup! But if you've marked everything like shown in this video it won't be needed.
Yup,the best! Many thanks for your excellent video.
Look no further than this video for help. He doesn't leave anything out
You're welcome! Glad I could help
Always rotate the crankshaft two full turns once you have the tensioner set and before you start putting things back together. You need to make sure things stay lined up after rotating.
100% correct! The tensioner can change tension, or the gears may no longer line up.
Great video! very informative! will watch this 10X before doing the job. 2007 volvo s60. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words, I try to make these videos so anyone can follow along.
Great INSTRUCTIONAL video. Many thanks
Glad to help!
excellent demo. thank you.
You're welcome, hope it helped
What if i roll the cam wheel backwards while putting on cam locking tool. Like 3/4 of a rotation? Thanks for you info and teaching the world.
No! Don't do that! The springs on those valves are strong enough to bend valves.
Very good video. I'm guessing that you have to remove the serpentine belt first, right? At 5.30, I think you misspoke when you said timing belt tensioner when you really meant drive belt. Another thing for those planning on doing this, get OEM belts and water pump from dealer or good quality parts from FCP Euro or IPD USA. I am now replacing my water pump at 160k (replaced at 100k) because the shop that did it used a NAPA TFW water pump and NAPA belt. The WP is leaking.
Yes, the drive belt needs to come off. Using cheap parts is OK when a car is as old as this one. There is no way it has another 100K in it. But for a newer car, or one that you want to put a lot more miles on, yes, use OEM parts. Maybe not branded parts, but find the original maker of the parts and buy them.
Extraordinary detail !
Super helpful !!
I learned lots !!!
Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥 🧰
Glad that I was able to help you
Thanks! I'm about to pull out a engine and put it in another car, Volvo V70 07 diesel.
I plan to do the timing belt and the clutch when the engine is out of the car
Good idea for sure!
Thank you Eric for this detailed procedure. I recently replaced O rings in the oil pan and replaced the PCV breather due to low oil pressure. With everything reinstalled, I have no oil pressure at all. I tried turning the engine over with the starter and no coils connected to the plugs; the oil pressure light did not extinguish. Does this sound like the oil pump needs replacing? 2001 V70XC original owner, 173K miles. Thanks!
You likely have crud caught up in the screen for the oil pump from replacing the PCV system. I've had that happen a few times on these cars over the years. You'll need to drop the pan again and remove the oil pick up tube. Once it's out, clean it out with brake cleaner from the top side down to flush out the crud.
If you want to try this, sometimes....OK rarely but still. You can instead turn the engine backward by hand (at the crank with a wrench.) By doing this for maybe 1/2 a turn, you are pushing whatever oil is in the pump and system backward back down the oil pickup tube. If you are lucky it will push the crud that is clogging the screen out and the car will have oil pressure. If this works, stop the car and change the oil to try and get that crud out of the pan and keep it from reclogging the screen.
Good luck!
Hello Kevin , I wanted to check with you regarding the repair/ solution to your engine oil pressure (warning light on) issue . Can I ask what the fix was ? Any information would be appreciated !
It’s fixed. I removed the pan and cleaned it out again. Replaced o-rings again. This time I also replaced o-rings on the tube in the pan that runs from the oil cooler to the oil filter. They were dried and broken. With everything reassembled the oil pressure is fine. Big relief! Thanks!
@@kevinmcgrath7355
Glad to hear that you have fixed it ! Thanks for sharing this information . I have two Volvos in the family and this information will come in handy !!
Excellent video!! Thank you so much for making it
I am glad I could help. I try to make it easy for someone to do a job
Thank you this is perfect explanation
Glad it was helpful!
The water pump has 7 bolts. Took me a while to find the seventh one. (15:30) in the video
Some of them are kinds hidden- The reason I don't like engineers.
Thanks for sharing, i've learnd a new trixs the markings, would be kind sharing what glue you used for the waterpump gasket pls. Thanks again.
Sorry for the delay. It's called "Copper Coat" and it's like a spray on adhesive that has some copper particles in it as well. Good stuff!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairsthanks for sharing again.
Great explanation ! I have mine to be done asap. As it looks the same. However very tiny budget, can I just replace the timing belt for the time beeing? Also do I need to remove the pulley?
Yes, totally. On a budget just replace the belt and hope that the other stuff hangs on a while longer.
Awesome video - way more helpful than a lot of the big name youtube pages. Attempting this soon on an 05’ XC90. I’ve been hearing about checking the VVT o-rings and seals when doing this job… is that worth it in your opinion or better to leave them alone if not causing problems?
Better to leave alone and instead replace the PVC trap box system. That will keep those seals from going bad
You need to do a XC90 T6 for the real fun!
I've done many! I work at the Volvo dealership from 1997 to 2014.
I've got a 2000 S70, does this video cover the VVT engine as well? I have read that you have to "pre-tension" the system first by advancing the engine clockwise to the point where the timing marks line up, then continue clockwise 90 degrees and then rotate the engine back, counterclockwise, to the marks.
Yes, it's the same from 1998 to 2007. No, you don't need to pre-tension anything. I've done maybe 3000 of these belts in the last 20 years. You don't need to do that.
If you don't rotate the gears clockwise before mounting the new timing belt, the timing marks on the gears and engine may not align correctly. This misalignment can result in the engine's valves opening or closing at the wrong time, which can lead to serious engine damage.
Oh yes, failure to follow these instructions perfectly will cost you an engine real fast.
I"m doing this, taking copious notes from the video. Given how crucial keeping everything aligned is, wouldn't marking the gears and the BELT and then transferring those belt markings to the new belt be a fail safe way of doing it?
You could do that, but you run the risk of getting the belt marks off slightly and then getting confused when doing the job.
Would this video cover a 2005 XC90 2.9 l t6. We did the belt already but now getting a code saying camshaft crankshaft sensor position. It seems to run fine but when we are doing the original installation of the belt we were looking at a 2.5 l video and now we don't know if the belt is in perfect timing. What do we do if we don't know if the belt is exactly where it should be. Thanks
Yes, this is the same for the 6 cylinder. Did you mark the gears like I did in the video before removal? If so, pull the top cover and rotate the engine by hand until all the marks line up. If they do, you are looking at a VVT solenoid issue. If no, one of the gears is not in the right spot.
If you didn't mark the gears....WHY?!?!? You were asking for issues and it looks like you may have found them. You'll have to pull the belt back off and reset your timing.
Would you have more info (like a product sku) or a link to the timing belt kit you bought for the car?
I don't- I usually just try to find the best price online- I have learned that for a Volvo- it is better to get the name brand parts than to get cheap off brand-
Well done video! Is there any difference between your video and a 2004 Xc90 2.5 engine?
Nope! Your tensioner may look a little different, but the job is identical.
Great video but just noticed that Aisin waterpump, they did the waterpump but not the timing belt lol????
That is correct-
How is the crankshaft pulley held in place in order to remove the crankshaft bolt?
I just hit it with an air gun and it comes loose. It's not like a Honda crank bolt. Comes off easy.
valvo s60 T20 2003 model standing on road. When I started again, the engine was heavy, tell me about the timing

If the belt breaks, the head will have to come off for repairs.
My exhaust side blew a front cam seal. Is there a way to replace without having to lock the cams in the rear?
If it has a VVT hub, then the answer is NO. If it is a regular gear, then YES
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I have a 05 xc90 with a 2.5t. On Amazon now to order the cam locking tool lol. Thank you for the reply. Appreciate you taking the time
Glad I could help
Does the Aisin water pump come supplied with a gasket?
Yes.
i gotta ask you....i have my top off, but im worry about the vvt the cam whell can turn a little if you know what i mean . when i install it, should i turn the whell all the way to the left before i time the marks or ? hope you know what i mean, but no one has shown that on their videos
Follow exactly what I do here in this video with the marks and it won't matter if it moves. You'll have your marks to line it back up.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Okey , thanks . Its just that some says it should be turned left before the marks and - sorry but i got confused about it all, and who dosent wanna make it right the first time ? I did what i use to do in my 30 years as a mechanic . made my own marks with the cams locked , its just that whell and all the opinions that makes me confused . i Follow this and cross my fingers - an old car 22 years, but i absolutely love it . except when my wife drives it and the plastic for the coolant hose to cabin breaks and she decide to drive even 5 more minutes or so EVEN if the car says STOP EMIDIETLY !!! women and old cars.....you spend the same amount on money on both !!!
got a link to the kit you bought?
I do, but it varies from year to year. MIne pictured here is a 2004 (late) there is also an early variation with a slightly smaller tensioner. It's best for you to pull the front cover and verify if your car has the early or late tensioner before ordering.
Hey mine doesn't have the exaust vvt thing ! Also mine is not turbo but with time do they need adjustment?
They are still interference engines, so yes, they need to be timed.
But what about how the Fazer move back and forth, how us time true?
Did you mark the gear like I showed in this video? If so, you can still time it to true TDC. if not, you are right how can you know where TDC is with movable cams?
thanks for the video .
I hope it helped!
does this video help for volvo xc70?
Yes, that is what was filmed here. A 2004 Volvo XC70.
How long does this take for someone who has never done a belt?
Figure on about a half day to do it- Please just take your time and you will be fine. I would have the video close by so you can reference it to help out. I just helped a neighbors son do a timing belt and water pump on a Lexus in about 5 hours
What car are you putting this engine into? More crucially… will you still have a Volvo in the garage after that?!
Cheers for a another great Volvo video, Eric! Never knew about that trick with tensioning the belt on the crank either!
The 2001 volvo's transmission went out, so I found a 2004 xc70 where the engine went out. So I am swapping the engine from my old volvo to the new one.
Ah alright! Will you be filming the engine transplantation?@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs
I can speak from experience that you can be a notch out on the timing belt without issues oops! 70,000 miles between one change and getting it wrong and the second time where I checked and looked again and did it right the next time. I had always put the drop in performance down to age as it was at about 230,000 miles the time before.
Oh man! That's a long time to run one a tooth out!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs I know! I was kinda thrilled when I took the chance and corrected it because it had run for so long "out", I was then in that area of doubt. Was it actually right or not?
parts used?
amzn.to/48bXUES
Mine has 210 and original timing belt ill be not driving it till i have time to change it
Holy cow! Yes!!! Don't drive it until you do that belt!
Hello. Is it possible to swap out the CVT on a new Mitsubishi Mirage and implant a manual transmission?
Yes, but you would need an entire donor car for the pedal swap, mount swap, ECU and wiring swap and transmission swap. Totally and 1200% not worth it. Just buy a used manual and drive it!
Thank you
Why is the diagram shaped like a pp
The engineers were men?