Got hold of Lorie at Kibler's and asked about this kit. Within a few hours I got a reply that one was coming to me in the mail that very afternoon. How great of Jim and his crew to do this . . .
Great people for sure and while drilling for the pins might not be very difficult, Jim listened to his customers and designed this tool. Thanks for watching!
Iam going to use The browning solution Jim has in his shop. I was surprised to see the barrel just had a few mill marks I just plan to use sandpaper to even the marks then apply the solution
Well Pete my first day didn't go well! Bolts didn't fit tang and trigger! Good thing Jim sent that tap. I need to go to the hardware store and buy a handle. Other than that stock was Beautiful! The rifle with barrel is surprisingly light and easy to handle!!🤗
Pete what is going on with your colonial rifle build I am missing your progress!!! Iam enjoying Southern mountain rifle and working on loading and target shooting! It shoots great!!! I have shot over 100 times using the same flint!!!🤗
Hi Dan, great to hear from you.. I’m on a bit of a pause as a family member had a health issue and that’s taking up most of my time. I’m sure I’ll get back to it soon I hope! I’m glad your project turned out well. I was wondering about the accuracy and how long a flint might last..
When you get the finish let me know how it worked out. I plan to use the Iron nitrate with the sealer Jim provides. The guys at my Blackpowder club says iron nitrate may make the stock darker than I like I as you ordered the step up curly maple stock for the southern mountain rifle
Dan, I’ll be sure to film it when I get to that step.. stay tuned. I plan to use the iron nitrate and permalyn sealer from Jim also. The iron nitrate should give us the lightest finish. Using the tannic acid as a second step will make the wood very dark. I’m planning on going with just the iron nitrate and see what that looks like.
Well Pete iam to the point of finishing Southern mountain rifle. I am thinking of using the Lancaster maple dye as a base along with the iron nitrate and permalrn finish what do u think
Dan, I just saw a post last night about somebody that built a colonial and wrote an article in black powder cartridge magazine. You can see it here www.Blackpowdercartridge.com/a-covid-19-project The article was ok but he has some nice close up pictures of what the iron nitrate will look like with tried & true varnish oil. I'm struggling with permalyn vs tried & true oil as I've seen Jim use both. I think I'd pick up some maple at Lowes, sand to the same grip as your stock and try the Lancaster and iron nitrate seperately to be sure. I'd like to see how your test comes out if you choose to go that route.
Comment from Jim regarding the clear finish. I have a lengthy answer from Jim: Tried and True oil is going to give you a very slightly less shiny finish. However, it is much more labor-intensive. You have to put each coat on as thin as possible, wiping excess off as you go. You also have a longer drying time between coats. Sometimes being up to 3 days between depending on the weather in your area. Also, you need to rub it back between coats. However this being said, it is the more period correct choice. Permalyn is a tad bit shinier but certainly can be rubbed back. It is much more user-friendly. But you still should apply it in thin layers and make sure it is really dry between the layers. He usually recommends this method over the tried and true. I hope this helps!
Pete I just have a concern about my Southern Mountain rifle build. Watching Jims video he uses a jeweler saw to enlarge the under lug holes iam afraid of making them to big do you have any ideas? The shipment of my kit will be this week looking forward to that!!!!!!! Thank you
Dan, I’m super excited that your rifle is arriving this week!! I don’t think you will have any problem at all with the under lugs. First thing.. your kit should come with Jim’s new drill bushing tool. It’s a foolproof way to go through the pre drilled holes in the stock and get a perfect hole through the under lug (all new kits are coming with the tool + I did a video on how the tool works). Second, once you have the hole through the under lug, that is the pin location that will hold the barrel to the stock. All we are doing with the saw is widening the slot. I’d measure from the bottom of the lug to the center of the pin hole and transfer that dimension along the length of the lug. You just want to extend the pin a hole a little to the left and a little to the right to allow the pin to slide in your new slot. This will let your stock expand and contract a bit. Easy for me to say, but I don’t think you have anything to worry about with this step. By sawing horizontally, you have no chance of making the hole too big. Match your jeweler saw blade with as closely as possible to the pin size. I did see that Jim was considering “improving” his design by pre-slotting the under lugs.. maybe you will be surprised. On the current Colonial rifles, the under lugs are machined into the barrel and are not separate pieces. Jim is always improving and refining based on customer feedback. Good luck with your project!
Hey Dan.. No progress yet, but I do have a day off next week and hope to at least start test fitting. I’m planning to film the process. Is your rifle in yet, or one more week?
Got hold of Lorie at Kibler's and asked about this kit. Within a few hours I got a reply that one was coming to me in the mail that very afternoon. How great of Jim and his crew to do this . . .
Great people for sure and while drilling for the pins might not be very difficult, Jim listened to his customers and designed this tool. Thanks for watching!
Iam going to use The browning solution Jim has in his shop. I was surprised to see the barrel just had a few mill marks I just plan to use sandpaper to even the marks then apply the solution
Well Pete my first day didn't go well! Bolts didn't fit tang and trigger! Good thing Jim sent that tap. I need to go to the hardware store and buy a handle. Other than that stock was Beautiful! The rifle with barrel is surprisingly light and easy to handle!!🤗
Dan, glad to see your rifle arrived and is exactly what you wanted! Have you decided on a wood finish/protective coating and barrel finish?
Pete what is going on with your colonial rifle build I am missing your progress!!! Iam enjoying Southern mountain rifle and working on loading and target shooting! It shoots great!!! I have shot over 100 times using the same flint!!!🤗
Hi Dan, great to hear from you.. I’m on a bit of a pause as a family member had a health issue and that’s taking up most of my time. I’m sure I’ll get back to it soon I hope! I’m glad your project turned out well. I was wondering about the accuracy and how long a flint might last..
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
When I used my "drill guide", the drill "FROZE SOLID" in the guide. I had to use the direct drill technique.
Going with the iron nitrate with Jim's sealer finish. I hope with Covid wrapping up you can work on your rifle
That's the same combo I'm using. What are you doing with the barrel?
When you get the finish let me know how it worked out. I plan to use the Iron nitrate with the sealer Jim provides. The guys at my Blackpowder club says iron nitrate may make the stock darker than I like I as you ordered the step up curly maple stock for the southern mountain rifle
Dan, I’ll be sure to film it when I get to that step.. stay tuned.
I plan to use the iron nitrate and permalyn sealer from Jim also. The iron nitrate should give us the lightest finish. Using the tannic acid as a second step will make the wood very dark. I’m planning on going with just the iron nitrate and see what that looks like.
Well Pete iam to the point of finishing Southern mountain rifle. I am thinking of using the Lancaster maple dye as a base along with the iron nitrate and permalrn finish what do u think
Dan, I just saw a post last night about somebody that built a colonial and wrote an article in black powder cartridge magazine. You can see it here www.Blackpowdercartridge.com/a-covid-19-project
The article was ok but he has some nice close up pictures of what the iron nitrate will look like with tried & true varnish oil. I'm struggling with permalyn vs tried & true oil as I've seen Jim use both. I think I'd pick up some maple at Lowes, sand to the same grip as your stock and try the Lancaster and iron nitrate seperately to be sure. I'd like to see how your test comes out if you choose to go that route.
Comment from Jim regarding the clear finish. I have a lengthy answer from Jim:
Tried and True oil is going to give you a very slightly less shiny finish. However, it is much more labor-intensive. You have to put each coat on as thin as possible, wiping excess off as you go. You also have a longer drying time between coats. Sometimes being up to 3 days between depending on the weather in your area. Also, you need to rub it back between coats. However this being said, it is the more period correct choice.
Permalyn is a tad bit shinier but certainly can be rubbed back. It is much more user-friendly. But you still should apply it in thin layers and make sure it is really dry between the layers. He usually recommends this method over the tried and true.
I hope this helps!
thnx for this
Pete I just have a concern about my Southern Mountain rifle build. Watching Jims video he uses a jeweler saw to enlarge the under lug holes iam afraid of making them to big do you have any ideas? The shipment of my kit will be this week looking forward to that!!!!!!! Thank you
Dan, I’m super excited that your rifle is arriving this week!! I don’t think you will have any problem at all with the under lugs. First thing.. your kit should come with Jim’s new drill bushing tool. It’s a foolproof way to go through the pre drilled holes in the stock and get a perfect hole through the under lug (all new kits are coming with the tool + I did a video on how the tool works). Second, once you have the hole through the under lug, that is the pin location that will hold the barrel to the stock. All we are doing with the saw is widening the slot. I’d measure from the bottom of the lug to the center of the pin hole and transfer that dimension along the length of the lug. You just want to extend the pin a hole a little to the left and a little to the right to allow the pin to slide in your new slot. This will let your stock expand and contract a bit. Easy for me to say, but I don’t think you have anything to worry about with this step. By sawing horizontally, you have no chance of making the hole too big. Match your jeweler saw blade with as closely as possible to the pin size. I did see that Jim was considering “improving” his design by pre-slotting the under lugs.. maybe you will be surprised. On the current Colonial rifles, the under lugs are machined into the barrel and are not separate pieces. Jim is always improving and refining based on customer feedback. Good luck with your project!
Pete how's your build going on Keiber kit
Hey Dan.. No progress yet, but I do have a day off next week and hope to at least start test fitting. I’m planning to film the process. Is your rifle in yet, or one more week?
Wow how the drug people lied to us