I would love to work along side this man. I would work for free just for the opportunity to pick his mind because this knowledge is golden. Too much knowledge leaving all skilled trades not being passed down to anyone.
My radial drill press is a #4 Morse Taper spindle. To pick up a center punch with it, I bought a #4MT dead center. I just pop it in the spindle, center it up in the punch mark and most of the time im good to go. For more accuracy, I built a guide for a center punch to be sure that it is at near perfect 90°.
The sound from the drill press sounds like a pully is loose on the shaft. Great video!!!! I appreciate you as an expert in the field imparting your knowledge to us. I have learned alot from your videos!!!!
So many would benefit from the past. Just get a copy of the 1915 brown and sharp toolmaker book there’s no end to the enormous amount of ideas for working with machines and fixtures and designs that are still valid in today’s workshop. My shop had to get a micro finish on a gear shaft typical od grinder was only able to get close the finish had to be highly polished like 10-15 um and grinding was only going to get to 35-45. The manual from 1915 gave me the answer seahorse hide’s on wooden wheels and 3000 fpm. So of course you can’t buy seahorse hides. Use a sewn cotton buff and get the rotating speed by changing the speed on the spindle with different pulley sizes. By running the parts after initial grinding and working them dry putting the parts in varsol too cool them between working the finish and holding the.0002 tenths tolerance the problem was resolved by an idea that was 70 years old at the time. CnC tools are great but they aren’t a panacea. Drill fixtures are fast and more accurate than the CnC.
ANSI Y14.5 - “GO for Comment!!!” I have found that most shops assume it to be high tolerance (not necessarily the case) and have little understanding. Used correctly, it actually gives more latitude albeit “conditionally”… I have made several trips to shops to explain what it means and tell them it is actually to their benefit. Some shops see those little “planet boxes” (as we called them) and just price the job as if it was a tight tolerance…. to their detriment.
When I worked at a production factory I would hard mill a hole and a spigot on worn out press die punches at 60HRC with a long reach relieved neck end mill. I had no problem getting 5μm of diameter deviation by interpolating on a DMG M1 (but it wasn't ideal either to be honest and general use carbide tools would last for only about a dozen of them at best) before parting them off with an angle grinder, rounding the entry hole portion with a small round rotary stone and fine emery papers and lapping the final few microns of the bore to match the largest toleranced drill we had to use. They kept a steeply angled hole in the exact size and position for more than 100.000 parts each
Honestly CNC seems to be more trouble and expense than it is worth much of the time. Still plenty of operator induced screw ups, I see it every day. CNC can do some amazing things, but in my own private shop it is ALL manual equipment. Great video Howie!
I guess you have to deal with temperature extremes, weather, and new employees. Alaska, must be a hard place, for any business. And I would think, that there would be snow days. Hang in there.
We always do our drill bushings in house, since it seems cheaper that way. Just turn and drill some high-carbon raw stock and bob's your aunty. Sometimes we even surface harden them to make them last a little longer.
It's like the old saying about "if the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer" but now the only tool a lot of people want to use is CNC. Yes, it is very nice. You can do some pretty amazing things with them. It isn't terribly hard to program if you have the right software. However, there are a lot of times that the precision it can offer is not necessary for the job. What does unnecessary precision cost the customer? More money.
I truly hope the CEO of that last company sees this video. For some reason I do not think he knows what could've been saved had his lead let you guys build a jig.
This is a very tough situation, many people on phones won't watch the full width videos. We are experimenting, but I personally prefer the wider format same as You do.
God bless you, passing down all this knowledge.
I would love to work along side this man. I would work for free just for the opportunity to pick his mind because this knowledge is golden. Too much knowledge leaving all skilled trades not being passed down to anyone.
What a fantastic wealth of knowledge.
I'm sure to use the dancing technique to center the bit for my one-off parts!
I like your channel! It's like hanging out in the shop shooting the shit. Very cool! Keep up the good work!
My radial drill press is a #4 Morse Taper spindle. To pick up a center punch with it, I bought a #4MT dead center. I just pop it in the spindle, center it up in the punch mark and most of the time im good to go. For more accuracy, I built a guide for a center punch to be sure that it is at near perfect 90°.
The sound from the drill press sounds like a pully is loose on the shaft. Great video!!!!
I appreciate you as an expert in the field imparting your knowledge to us. I have learned alot from your videos!!!!
Your. Videos are great. Lots of good info.
Thanks for sharing.
Bob
So many would benefit from the past. Just get a copy of the 1915 brown and sharp toolmaker book there’s no end to the enormous amount of ideas for working with machines and fixtures and designs that are still valid in today’s workshop. My shop had to get a micro finish on a gear shaft typical od grinder was only able to get close the finish had to be highly polished like 10-15 um and grinding was only going to get to 35-45.
The manual from 1915 gave me the answer seahorse hide’s on wooden wheels and 3000 fpm.
So of course you can’t buy seahorse hides.
Use a sewn cotton buff and get the rotating speed by changing the speed on the spindle with different pulley sizes. By running the parts after initial grinding and working them dry putting the parts in varsol too cool them between working the finish and holding the.0002 tenths tolerance the problem was resolved by an idea that was 70 years old at the time.
CnC tools are great but they aren’t a panacea. Drill fixtures are fast and more accurate than the CnC.
Such wisdom! I wanna see a bushing demo now!
ANSI Y14.5 - “GO for Comment!!!”
I have found that most shops assume it to be high tolerance (not necessarily the case) and have little understanding. Used correctly, it actually gives more latitude albeit “conditionally”…
I have made several trips to shops to explain what it means and tell them it is actually to their benefit. Some shops see those little “planet boxes” (as we called them) and just price the job as if it was a tight tolerance…. to their detriment.
When I worked at a production factory I would hard mill a hole and a spigot on worn out press die punches at 60HRC with a long reach relieved neck end mill. I had no problem getting 5μm of diameter deviation by interpolating on a DMG M1 (but it wasn't ideal either to be honest and general use carbide tools would last for only about a dozen of them at best) before parting them off with an angle grinder, rounding the entry hole portion with a small round rotary stone and fine emery papers and lapping the final few microns of the bore to match the largest toleranced drill we had to use. They kept a steeply angled hole in the exact size and position for more than 100.000 parts each
Honestly CNC seems to be more trouble and expense than it is worth much of the time. Still plenty of operator induced screw ups, I see it every day. CNC can do some amazing things, but in my own private shop it is ALL manual equipment. Great video Howie!
I've used a step drill to line up a piece and hold it in place as I clamped it down
I guess you have to deal with temperature extremes, weather, and new employees. Alaska, must be a hard place, for any business. And I would think, that there would be snow days. Hang in there.
We always do our drill bushings in house, since it seems cheaper that way. Just turn and drill some high-carbon raw stock and bob's your aunty. Sometimes we even surface harden them to make them last a little longer.
Great tips. Thank you
Oh the mcmaster bags… always got those around lol
Is it my hearing or do you need new bearings in your drill press?
"What I need to do is-" Raise the table and shorten the quill extension to help decrease deflection and runout-
Could you do a video on using a boring head basic set up feeds and speeds maybe?
Maybe after a couple of weeks. What kind of boring head do you have? what machine do you want to use it on?
Often seems people have serious misconceptions about CNC, what it's good for and what it isn't.
Lames "know" only one thing: CNC = "precision" (and it's "impossible" to achieve any other way).
It's like the old saying about "if the only tool in your toolbox is a hammer" but now the only tool a lot of people want to use is CNC. Yes, it is very nice. You can do some pretty amazing things with them. It isn't terribly hard to program if you have the right software. However, there are a lot of times that the precision it can offer is not necessary for the job. What does unnecessary precision cost the customer? More money.
They can have there cnc, I'm manual only shop and I still get it done, I'm a machinist not a programmer..
Not a writer, either.
Don't you love it when the customer knows more than you!!! Why don't they do it themselves???
Hi
Drilling quotation
Do you know breakthrough space under plate for drill how much it is say for 1 inch drill ?
I truly hope the CEO of that last company sees this video. For some reason I do not think he knows what could've been saved had his lead let you guys build a jig.
If it's not a UA-cam 1 minute short for God sake stop filming vertical!
This is a very tough situation, many people on phones won't watch the full width videos. We are experimenting, but I personally prefer the wider format same as You do.