Thanks, I bought it as an upgrade to my CB500X after UK to India round trip, when I upgraded to more off-road machine I think I need to upgrade my riding as well :) To keep it in sync.. hehe
Solid practical info, I've stuck with the stock fender for all the mentioned reasons & appreciate your testing has proven it to be the right move, thanks.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful, I could not find any real info on the fender, so I had to go through the testing myself. I myself thought it will me much easier to pack the low fender.
After getting stucked in a field once due to mud blocked front wheel I learned it the hard way that some space between mud guard and wheel is a good thing to have
Yep, not dismissing that at all. I'm just not riding in fields usually. And with the changes to the brake lines I need to unscrew few screws to take it off. Although in the fields you probably have a problem with the brakes as well.
@@FARANDFURTHER Brakes worked well but screws were worn so my tools had no grip. Solved it by ripping off the whole mud guard and left this field. Brake hose needed to be replaced as it has been rubbed thin by the tire after a while
Nicely done. Thanks. There are places here in the states that are infamous for sticky mud where a low fender would pack up quickly, however if it's that bad then the rear (and everything else) packs up shortly afterwards regardless.
Thanks for saving me some money in a mod down the road . Like the brake line system change though . Good job staying on in that soup puddle , that looked fun !
Really happy it's useful, it took too much time and mud not to be. Well the FAR part is the travel and the FURTHER (not FARTHER) is the other stuff be it about the bikes or skills or about the people and culture, going a bit deeper than just travel stories, let's see how that concept goes.
Very helpful, thanks. Funny how often the first or simplest option ends up being the one... I like the idea of the split brake lines in case the OEM fender brakes. Cheers
Hi Hugo, shame I had to go full circle but I guess unless one makes personal experience it's difficult to decide as there is so much hype about high options and we also tend to romanicise our riding thinking we do dakar every time we hit the trails :) :) :)
Great video, was thinking about purchasing a high fender but seeing how well the stock fender performed, I am sure it is enough for my needs. Thank you!
Totally agree with you regarding the amount of stuff that gets flung up on the radiator. Still, it's possible you live in an area where the dirt is a different composition, so your mud may not be as sticky as someone elsewhere in the world. I've had TONS of mud packed up around a wheel, so it can happen. I do value the 'hypothesize and test' method, as too many people just buy stuff they may or may not actually benefit from.
Hi Adam, it is for sure very subjective and depends on the location, I'm sure I will eventually pack it with mud somewhere. I find the dirt on the radiator quie a problem after doing some heavy dirt it gets packed completely with fine mud and must be cleaned very well otherwise you loose cooling. That happened in the end to me, however the T7 went through like 2 days of clay bath so no wonder.
Great review agreed depends where you ride. I opted for the large WR450 fender as in Spain in the Berdinas Realas it is a clay type mud. I got that much packed in the mudguard it locked the wheel several times. I had to remove it and then damaged the link pipe on the breaks.
Hi Michael, yes 100% depends where you ride. I know some people from US said no way low fender as they have the clay there as well. The setup I ended up is different brake hoses and low fender because I don't have that much of clay around. Also in case I pack it up with the mud I can take off the low fender easily and I have nothing above the wheel which means I can't damage the brake hose as you mention. Hope it was not serious damage to the hoses...
Its not just mud... I have ripped off a low front fender with a stick and mud build up. Low fenders are for on-road use only. Watch my very old video here from 2 minutes for a look at what happens: ua-cam.com/video/OYVsz507G1c/v-deo.html
there is mud and there is a MUD :) I lost half an hour few days ago to clean low fender on my tenere (xt) when front wheel got locked, for extreme adventure bikes high fender is a must. Will be installing polisport high fender same as on my ktm 500 exc enduro bike. One more thing to consider is cooling - your big one fender covers radiator pretty good, polisport one has some holes in the back for air flow.
In terms of cooling it was my worry with the bigone I had, although it seems that doing a lot of liquid mud will pack up the radiator pretty much completely rendering it useless. Thats the reason my T7 started to overheat in the end, there was no air flowing through the radiator. There are definitely situations where sticky mud will packit but I'm happy with the risk and with the fact I have the brake lines repositioned.
Thanks for the testing. I was thinking about high fender options. But im fine with the low mount. I might hog out the plastic around the bolt mounts to get a little more hight
Good review...I will stick with the OEM mudguard. The other issue potentially with the bigger high mudguard is stability on the road at speed...it will really catch the wind. Cheers, Steve
Hi Steve, glad it was helpful. I think the "impaler" size could be prone to the side winds at higher speeds, however I could not test it as I have Mitas C-19 & EF-07 on T7 for hard offroad and going fast on the pavement on those is much more dangerous than the fender :)
Just bought my T7 rally, I wanted a high fender but not the problems, you described than I found the Yamaha OEM kit for high fender, it front high and the back of the tire remain low, easy Install, 30 minutes for a mechanic. And looks very nice.
@@EvilFluffy0 yeah, it was about €327 euro here in holland, but the camel adv one is about 200 usd, and then you need to buy a fender, 50 usd, so then its just a little money to get a original one.
Camel kit without fender is €250 in the Netherlands. Just ordered one, and a fender costs €25. Still quite a bit cheaper. But the bad thing about the OEM plastics is the price (really expensive for what you get) and you've still got the brakeline linked right over the front wheel.
The high front / low back combination - I see that on a T700 and it just smacks of being a styling thing and nothing more, which is fair enough if you’re honest about why you’re doing it, but the reality is that it’s the worst of both worlds. The back will clog. The front will cause the front to feel weird at speed (it sure always did on my enduro bikes at speed) as it flaps around. Go one or the other.
I wish you would come to the Southern US and do that test. The clay here will stop a low fender tire in it's tracks. Thanks for the demo very interesting with the back to back approach.
I guess there will be Southern US videos coming up ;) Quite a few people mentioned you clay... To be honest if I'd really try I could pack it up here as well, I'm sure I can find a place full of clay. But... I wanted a test where I go to various off-road scenarios without really thinking specifically to pack it up. I showed it is possible, it's not a myth that it packs but it takes specific conditions which are quite difficult to find... Unless... apparently one lives in Southern US... then long high fender and happy riding :)
Hi, I've not ridden with the high fender much on the highway, I took it for a spin at 130km/h but only briefly which does not really count as a real test. Where it will be noticable with the long high fender would be in heavy cross winds I think. But can't really say.
Here on the L.A. freeways, high enduro-type fenders just look out-of-place to my eye. I'm glad the low OEM fender works OK - especially in our climate.
Yea, it is working very well in its high position. I think what makes this mod worth are the changes brake lines so you can take the fender quickly off of you need so.
Thanks for the info. You mention and it's obvious if you pay attention, that you're using the OEM fender at the higher position. If the height at the front part of the fender is ok but mud is packed at the rear, can 2 spacers be added to lift the rear part too? Would this be helpful?
Yes, the OEM fender must be in the high position. When I was testing the low fender I thought I'll make custom "extension" brackets for the front & rear mounting points so that I'd be able to move it even higher. But as I didn't manage to pack it up I gave up on the idea. I think one would need to lift up the whole fender not only rear as if you lift only rear it would tilt the fender and mud would get stuck under it at the top of the wheel.
So in order to switch back to the OEM fender, you just place it back with a few screws?? All the brake lines stay in the same place?? One more question. What is the front tyre you are using? Thanks for the answers!! Love the look of your bike and i also have an idea to put a sticker of every country i am about to visit :)
Yes, just take off the high fender and put back on with original screws. The brake lines (new ones) will stay in the place no messing with them. With the tire…. Not sure could be Mitas E-13 or even C-19 at that time. Something off-road.
I didn’t really notice any difference. The T-Connector is placed at the bottom of the steering where the bracket of the high fender is. Like Came ADV does it as well.
In my opinion if something is left down in low position I then it will have the same issues as the low fender. When high fender the long one will work and I think it's not practical to come up with complex split system.
Hi Simon, I've not yet modified the sandard fender. There are the metal insets missing in the video but I'm still using it as-is. I thought to make an adapter brackets to get higher positions but as I've not been able to packit/break it... Not sure if it's worth it.
Possibility, but we're talking now about minimising splatter pattern on the bash plate and radiator. I'm currently happy with it's performance and I think adding extension would just make it more prone for branches and rocks as it would sit much lower.
I think that the supermoto fender was way too small ... There are no details on model of fender and I suppose there could be mid length supermoto fenders. And you could also add an extension to the supermoto fender to keep the radiator a bit cleaner. I don't do a lot of mud and I know the low fender is better for spray but the chance a branch can be picked up and under the low fender puts the break lines at risk. Changing the brakes is a must ... see Camel-Adv.com ... They also have some recommendations on fenders.
I've mentioned both high fender models and the part numbers in the texts in the video. I know about CamelADV list and if you look closer you will find those fenders in the CamelADV list. The long high fender worked well so I assume upgrading the SuperMoto one with extension could work but in that case I'd opt for the long fender anyway. As I said in the video, yes with low OEM there are risks, but for my overlanding I can live with them and manage it, as a matter of fact I didn't break the low fender on my motorcycles in 130000km including roundtrip to India.
Regarding the large high fender options - Polisport is making universal one with some sort of perforation in order to let the air onto the radiator. But either way I think the low fender is the best option overall. Great review! www.polisport.com/en/off-road/front-fenders/freeflow-universal-front-fender-black_p3958.html?id=551&cat=541&pc=1
The problem with the perforation is that the radiator will be all mess. What I liked on the full size fender I tested was it kept everything very clean (until it fell off) and I think that was the biggest advantage. I agree that for traveller, the low fender with changed brake lines is the best.
Hi Simon, no I did not loose the ABS, I had made custom steel braided brake lines and replaced the line directly from the ABS unit to the front brakes. I have single line from ABS going to T junction to split to left & right calliper.
@@lefterisbampaidis5446 Hello, I have to say that very subjectively the braking feel & response is better. But it's not like the bike was not braking before and now it suddenly stops immediately. If you know what I mean.
Hi Andrew, no I have not used Camel ADV kit. The cost of it + shipping it to Czechia is a bit prohibitive. I have just custom polycarbonate block which was supposed to hold the high fender but now it only holds the new brake lines. I measured and ordered custom brake lines which go from ABS unit to T junction and from there it goes to each calliper. The polycarbonate block now only holds the T junction.
Hi, I don’t have measurements with me. It has been done by the workshop and they measured the lines. The guy is now in hospital. Once I have it I’ll let you know.
@@FARANDFURTHER I think he means mounting on both fenders simultaneously but cutting off the front of the stock fender and the rear of the high fender. Just like what Yamaha did on the XT660R/X and the WR125X at the time.
Aaaaaha… I never tried that combination. But in that case how it protects you against mud buildup? That’s probably the main reason people are thinking about he high fender.
@@FARANDFURTHER I don't know, I never tried it either. But I'd think it wouldn't have a real advantage over the full stock fender or nothing significant in that regard. The main point of this mod surely is the aesthetic. You'll keep most of the protection of the stock fender while making it less conspicuous, and you'll have the aggressive look of the high fender without blocking any air flow to the radiator. That said, it might be a compromise worth trying 🤷
![Yamaha Tenere 700 - Long Term [66,000km] Owners Review](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2Oj8ka2F9Pc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Yamaha Tenere 700 - Long Term [66,000km] Owners Review](/img/tr.png)
I think it's great that you are using this bike in a way that most romanticize on but never do.
Thanks, I bought it as an upgrade to my CB500X after UK to India round trip, when I upgraded to more off-road machine I think I need to upgrade my riding as well :) To keep it in sync.. hehe
Clear, open and honest statement! Thank you!
My pleasure!
Excellent review. Thank you.
Great video! Thanks for doing this “in the name of science.” I like how you get to the point and show first-hand knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it and the video was helpful.
Very useful analysis! Thank you! 🙏🏼🤩
Glad it was helpful!
Solid practical info, I've stuck with the stock fender for all the mentioned reasons & appreciate your testing has proven it to be the right move, thanks.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful, I could not find any real info on the fender, so I had to go through the testing myself. I myself thought it will me much easier to pack the low fender.
After getting stucked in a field once due to mud blocked front wheel I learned it the hard way that some space between mud guard and wheel is a good thing to have
Yep, not dismissing that at all. I'm just not riding in fields usually. And with the changes to the brake lines I need to unscrew few screws to take it off. Although in the fields you probably have a problem with the brakes as well.
@@FARANDFURTHER Brakes worked well but screws were worn so my tools had no grip. Solved it by ripping off the whole mud guard and left this field. Brake hose needed to be replaced as it has been rubbed thin by the tire after a while
Great vid, thank you for sharing your experiences, much appreciated! Regards from Austria!
Very glad it was helpful/useful. On the fenders I really found that it's just by trying to figure out what works for me...
Nicely done. Thanks. There are places here in the states that are infamous for sticky mud where a low fender would pack up quickly, however if it's that bad then the rear (and everything else) packs up shortly afterwards regardless.
Awesome! Extremely useful! Thank you very much!
You're very welcome! Thanks for support!
Thanks for saving me some money in a mod down the road . Like the brake line system change though . Good job staying on in that soup puddle , that looked fun !
Glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for a great and unique summary. I though far&further meant only travels but I understand now it also includes your reviews. :)
Really happy it's useful, it took too much time and mud not to be. Well the FAR part is the travel and the FURTHER (not FARTHER) is the other stuff be it about the bikes or skills or about the people and culture, going a bit deeper than just travel stories, let's see how that concept goes.
@@FARANDFURTHER Ah of course! Didn't get the farther/further. Thx. Great concept so keep it up!
Very helpful, thanks. Funny how often the first or simplest option ends up being the one...
I like the idea of the split brake lines in case the OEM fender brakes. Cheers
Hi Hugo, shame I had to go full circle but I guess unless one makes personal experience it's difficult to decide as there is so much hype about high options and we also tend to romanicise our riding thinking we do dakar every time we hit the trails :) :) :)
Great video, was thinking about purchasing a high fender but seeing how well the stock fender performed, I am sure it is enough for my needs. Thank you!
Most welcome, just keep an eye on it if you venture into sticky clay conditions ;)
Nice video thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Totally agree with you regarding the amount of stuff that gets flung up on the radiator. Still, it's possible you live in an area where the dirt is a different composition, so your mud may not be as sticky as someone elsewhere in the world. I've had TONS of mud packed up around a wheel, so it can happen. I do value the 'hypothesize and test' method, as too many people just buy stuff they may or may not actually benefit from.
Hi Adam, it is for sure very subjective and depends on the location, I'm sure I will eventually pack it with mud somewhere. I find the dirt on the radiator quie a problem after doing some heavy dirt it gets packed completely with fine mud and must be cleaned very well otherwise you loose cooling. That happened in the end to me, however the T7 went through like 2 days of clay bath so no wonder.
Great review agreed depends where you ride. I opted for the large WR450 fender as in Spain in the Berdinas Realas it is a clay type mud. I got that much packed in the mudguard it locked the wheel several times. I had to remove it and then damaged the link pipe on the breaks.
Hi Michael, yes 100% depends where you ride. I know some people from US said no way low fender as they have the clay there as well.
The setup I ended up is different brake hoses and low fender because I don't have that much of clay around. Also in case I pack it up with the mud I can take off the low fender easily and I have nothing above the wheel which means I can't damage the brake hose as you mention.
Hope it was not serious damage to the hoses...
I use the world raid edition fender(s) - best of two worlds when it comes to wet conditions.
Its not just mud... I have ripped off a low front fender with a stick and mud build up. Low fenders are for on-road use only. Watch my very old video here from 2 minutes for a look at what happens: ua-cam.com/video/OYVsz507G1c/v-deo.html
Yes the sticks or other stuff is a real danger apart from the mud.
there is mud and there is a MUD :) I lost half an hour few days ago to clean low fender on my tenere (xt) when front wheel got locked, for extreme adventure bikes high fender is a must. Will be installing polisport high fender same as on my ktm 500 exc enduro bike. One more thing to consider is cooling - your big one fender covers radiator pretty good, polisport one has some holes in the back for air flow.
In terms of cooling it was my worry with the bigone I had, although it seems that doing a lot of liquid mud will pack up the radiator pretty much completely rendering it useless. Thats the reason my T7 started to overheat in the end, there was no air flowing through the radiator.
There are definitely situations where sticky mud will packit but I'm happy with the risk and with the fact I have the brake lines repositioned.
Thanks for the testing. I was thinking about high fender options. But im fine with the low mount. I might hog out the plastic around the bolt mounts to get a little more hight
Yes, that is also an option. For me splitting the brake line is the main advantage as that will make taking it off easy.
great - thanx
You are welcome! Glad to share.
With the setup you run even if it packs up you can take it off clean the packed mud and put it back on. Looks like the way to go.
Exactly that is my backup plan, the re-routing of the brake hoses makes it possible.
Good review...I will stick with the OEM mudguard. The other issue potentially with the bigger high mudguard is stability on the road at speed...it will really catch the wind. Cheers, Steve
Hi Steve, glad it was helpful. I think the "impaler" size could be prone to the side winds at higher speeds, however I could not test it as I have Mitas C-19 & EF-07 on T7 for hard offroad and going fast on the pavement on those is much more dangerous than the fender :)
Just bought my T7 rally, I wanted a high fender but not the problems, you described than I found the Yamaha OEM kit for high fender, it front high and the back of the tire remain low, easy Install, 30 minutes for a mechanic. And looks very nice.
Same here, not wanting the issues with brakelines changing, oem fits great and the low guard keeps the bike clean
@@dutchyFal the only sad part is the price of the kit.
@@EvilFluffy0 yeah, it was about €327 euro here in holland, but the camel adv one is about 200 usd, and then you need to buy a fender, 50 usd, so then its just a little money to get a original one.
And excluding the shipping to europe offcourse
Camel kit without fender is €250 in the Netherlands. Just ordered one, and a fender costs €25. Still quite a bit cheaper.
But the bad thing about the OEM plastics is the price (really expensive for what you get) and you've still got the brakeline linked right over the front wheel.
The high front / low back combination - I see that on a T700 and it just smacks of being a styling thing and nothing more, which is fair enough if you’re honest about why you’re doing it, but the reality is that it’s the worst of both worlds. The back will clog. The front will cause the front to feel weird at speed (it sure always did on my enduro bikes at speed) as it flaps around.
Go one or the other.
Hi, so basically, Acerbis all the way or balls cause the oem one is the worst of both combo.
Thanks bro
I wish you would come to the Southern US and do that test. The clay here will stop a low fender tire in it's tracks. Thanks for the demo very interesting with the back to back approach.
I guess there will be Southern US videos coming up ;) Quite a few people mentioned you clay... To be honest if I'd really try I could pack it up here as well, I'm sure I can find a place full of clay.
But... I wanted a test where I go to various off-road scenarios without really thinking specifically to pack it up. I showed it is possible, it's not a myth that it packs but it takes specific conditions which are quite difficult to find...
Unless... apparently one lives in Southern US... then long high fender and happy riding :)
Low fender does fine in GA clay. If you can "lock up the front wheel", I'd love to see it. Tires are a different story.
Great video. Thank you. How was riding with the long high fender on the freeway, or highway speeds?
Hi, I've not ridden with the high fender much on the highway, I took it for a spin at 130km/h but only briefly which does not really count as a real test. Where it will be noticable with the long high fender would be in heavy cross winds I think. But can't really say.
Here on the L.A. freeways, high enduro-type fenders just look out-of-place to my eye.
I'm glad the low OEM fender works OK - especially in our climate.
Yea, it is working very well in its high position. I think what makes this mod worth are the changes brake lines so you can take the fender quickly off of you need so.
Thanks for the info.
You mention and it's obvious if you pay attention, that you're using the OEM fender at the higher position. If the height at the front part of the fender is ok but mud is packed at the rear, can 2 spacers be added to lift the rear part too?
Would this be helpful?
Yes, the OEM fender must be in the high position. When I was testing the low fender I thought I'll make custom "extension" brackets for the front & rear mounting points so that I'd be able to move it even higher. But as I didn't manage to pack it up I gave up on the idea.
I think one would need to lift up the whole fender not only rear as if you lift only rear it would tilt the fender and mud would get stuck under it at the top of the wheel.
So in order to switch back to the OEM fender, you just place it back with a few screws?? All the brake lines stay in the same place??
One more question. What is the front tyre you are using? Thanks for the answers!! Love the look of your bike and i also have an idea to put a sticker of every country i am about to visit :)
Yes, just take off the high fender and put back on with original screws. The brake lines (new ones) will stay in the place no messing with them.
With the tire…. Not sure could be Mitas E-13 or even C-19 at that time. Something off-road.
With the brake line T-connector placed higher up (where did you put it?), was bleeding the front brake lines easier or harder?
I didn’t really notice any difference. The T-Connector is placed at the bottom of the steering where the bracket of the high fender is. Like Came ADV does it as well.
Can you put the original cut from behind and on top one cut from the front that protects only the back?
In my opinion if something is left down in low position I then it will have the same issues as the low fender. When high fender the long one will work and I think it's not practical to come up with complex split system.
on the standard fender it looks like you have opened up the mounting holes to get as much lift as possible?
Hi Simon, I've not yet modified the sandard fender. There are the metal insets missing in the video but I'm still using it as-is. I thought to make an adapter brackets to get higher positions but as I've not been able to packit/break it... Not sure if it's worth it.
How about OEM fender + fender extender? Maybe next thing to test?
Possibility, but we're talking now about minimising splatter pattern on the bash plate and radiator. I'm currently happy with it's performance and I think adding extension would just make it more prone for branches and rocks as it would sit much lower.
Some "proper" test conditions right there !!!!
Hehe, and the proper cleaning still continues... :)
I think that the supermoto fender was way too small ... There are no details on model of fender and I suppose there could be mid length supermoto fenders. And you could also add an extension to the supermoto fender to keep the radiator a bit cleaner. I don't do a lot of mud and I know the low fender is better for spray but the chance a branch can be picked up and under the low fender puts the break lines at risk. Changing the brakes is a must ... see Camel-Adv.com ... They also have some recommendations on fenders.
I've mentioned both high fender models and the part numbers in the texts in the video. I know about CamelADV list and if you look closer you will find those fenders in the CamelADV list.
The long high fender worked well so I assume upgrading the SuperMoto one with extension could work but in that case I'd opt for the long fender anyway.
As I said in the video, yes with low OEM there are risks, but for my overlanding I can live with them and manage it, as a matter of fact I didn't break the low fender on my motorcycles in 130000km including roundtrip to India.
Regarding the large high fender options - Polisport is making universal one with some sort of perforation in order to let the air onto the radiator. But either way I think the low fender is the best option overall. Great review!
www.polisport.com/en/off-road/front-fenders/freeflow-universal-front-fender-black_p3958.html?id=551&cat=541&pc=1
The problem with the perforation is that the radiator will be all mess. What I liked on the full size fender I tested was it kept everything very clean (until it fell off) and I think that was the biggest advantage.
I agree that for traveller, the low fender with changed brake lines is the best.
Díky Amigo :-)
Není zač, díky za zkouknutí.
It looks way much better with the high fender.
It is more aggressive/enduro look, mostly the personal preference. I did like the look.
Did you lose your abs with the two brake lines?...do they come straaight from the master cyclinder?
Hi Simon, no I did not loose the ABS, I had made custom steel braided brake lines and replaced the line directly from the ABS unit to the front brakes. I have single line from ABS going to T junction to split to left & right calliper.
@@FARANDFURTHER did you notice any difference with the s.s. lines?
@@FARANDFURTHER ok thats great info thank you.
@@lefterisbampaidis5446 Hello, I have to say that very subjectively the braking feel & response is better. But it's not like the bike was not braking before and now it suddenly stops immediately. If you know what I mean.
@@FARANDFURTHER I do. Thanks for always getting back to me and all the fellas.
Keep it up!
How did you move the brake lines? Camel high fender?
Hi Andrew, no I have not used Camel ADV kit. The cost of it + shipping it to Czechia is a bit prohibitive. I have just custom polycarbonate block which was supposed to hold the high fender but now it only holds the new brake lines.
I measured and ordered custom brake lines which go from ABS unit to T junction and from there it goes to each calliper. The polycarbonate block now only holds the T junction.
@far&further can you please show the measurement of the brakelines thanks in advance!
Regards
Matte
Hi, I don’t have measurements with me. It has been done by the workshop and they measured the lines. The guy is now in hospital. Once I have it I’ll let you know.
@@FARANDFURTHER Thanks man, by the way great Summary of high vs low fender
Thanks, glad I can put out something with information value 😂
I think a combination works great, high front fender and low back fender
Low back fender?
@@FARANDFURTHER I think he means mounting on both fenders simultaneously but cutting off the front of the stock fender and the rear of the high fender. Just like what Yamaha did on the XT660R/X and the WR125X at the time.
Aaaaaha… I never tried that combination. But in that case how it protects you against mud buildup? That’s probably the main reason people are thinking about he high fender.
@@FARANDFURTHER I don't know, I never tried it either. But I'd think it wouldn't have a real advantage over the full stock fender or nothing significant in that regard.
The main point of this mod surely is the aesthetic. You'll keep most of the protection of the stock fender while making it less conspicuous, and you'll have the aggressive look of the high fender without blocking any air flow to the radiator.
That said, it might be a compromise worth trying 🤷
hi guys i need a link where i can buy the brake line extension kit please , cant find it on ebay :/