Now I have a use for that scrap of 2x4 my wife has been telling me to get rid of for five years!! 😂 See, Honey! I knew I'd need that eventually! Mr. Socket got a special encore! 😂
There is always many uses for tools and things not always there designed purpose either. Like the first time I really used one of my school books while in high school. It was a perfect wheel chock, manual trans and no parking brake finally got to use algebra….. well the book 😉
It was in the plans at one time in my life to work as the instructor at the vocational school I went to years ago. The timing when it came available didn’t work out.
Over the entire restoration a couple of extra hours to get your cars gaps and body work dialed is minimal, and can really set it apart from others. Excellent how to again. 👍
Another great video just had to do mine but it was OER from classic Fierbirds it was my second one the first was from National Parts Depo it was really bad I like the socket trick I used this small piece of wood I might get done with this bird by summers end lol keep them coming your advice and teaching all the stuff you have to do to restore a Fierbird or any car is spot on and invaluable! John.🙂
Nothing is better than Low-Tech! I’m headed out to “massage” mine right now. Driver side front corner is up quite a bit. I figure we’re actually bending the hinge lever.
Great work! The great pumpking is really getting there. I just have to say you do some amazing things with a 2x4 and a hammer. Thank you for sharing this.
Using what I have at hand and most people might is what I do best. I am too cheap and try to keep a tight budget. Not to mention it works great. Hope to be painting this car very soon
excellent tip Jon. I had to do this on my 69 Camaro AMD cowl hood a couple years ago. I ended up having to put a skim of filler due to small dents but blocked out nicely. Thanks for sharing and keep saving them birds!
I would rather have a little filler on a panel that fits tight as opposed to a large gap. Just about every replacement panel I have bought needs a little persuasion so figured its good info on a way to make it happen
I found that the socket method created a pretty good dent in my trunk lid. Wound up using my hammer and dolly on the edges to match the contour to the quarter panels. I will use a spot puller to bring those lows up and skim coat. My edges are now where they need to be.
What brands did you try? I have tried a few and most are awful. Has the best luck with the AMD it was the first time I tried one but I have also heard people say they where awful as well.
@@VinylVillageGarage I don't recall, but the Original worked well and the AMD aftermarket did too. The only reason I went with an aftermarket was because I was too lazy to fix all the holes.
Thanks, looks very simple and makes a huge difference! Awesome tip! I don’t understand why but seems like most of these cars end up with Camaro rear spoiler’s myself if I had to have a rear spoiler I would go with the 69 T/A spoiler that way I’m keeping it all Pontiac! Just my 2cents 🤷🏻♂
The 1969 model year the TA spoiler was an option for any car from the dealer. Well that’s what my memory is telling me anyway. Need it dig out my books and find that again to confirm.
Update the book says it was a dealer option to install a 1969 trans am Style spoiler was released October of 1968. It was a kit that included spoiler and trunk springs.
Great tips! I remember the first time I manipulated the edge of a hood. I was in my early 20s and I was scared to death that I was going to ruin my new sheet metal. I was wondering where you purchased the bulk of the metal for this car? I'm getting ready to place an order for my '68 and would like a recommendation for a reputable vendor.
I did a bulk order all from AMD for this car and very very happy with the fitment. 1/4 panels fit exceptionally well to the tail panel. I will be using them again for my next build as well
Who would have thunk a 2x4 could be so handy? I had some scrap Delrin that I rescued from work that's my go to when force is applied by hammer. But your 2x4 action is perfect! Question, I know the rubber trunk seal will compress, but after some whacking does the seal fit change? Or does the latch hold down just squishes it into place? THANKS for your insight, John I can't wait to see the paint after all that work.
This is good question and I almost forgot something. 😬 I normally install the seal And inspect the gap as well, I have had the seal keep the trunk deck up too high. With the seal installed and let it set latched for a couple weeks to compress the seal then inspect and adjust as necessary. I am ordering a trunk seal today!!! Phenomenal question and thanks for asking you might have help save the day.
I kept my old trunk seal it wasn't all tore up I had a lot of gutter work they weren't right (national parts depot) and I cut it up because had to do a lot of put in channel take out but I would not recommend National Parts depot to anybody nothing but hate to say but junk AMD or OER I found are the best AMD #1
Great video. Getting ready to start on my 68 bird any day now. quick question, do you strip the edp coating on the underside of your deck lids and inside of your quarter skins?
Not normally on the inside of panels. Edp was designed to just scuff and paint over, I don’t trust it enough for outside panels. It would not hurt to strip the insides and paint them, I see it as I only have a few hours a week to play Cars and feel I can spend that time doing something else.
Thanks John, you definitely have the best most simple videos to follow.
Use what is at hand is the plan.
Great tip. Easy way to make them gaps look great!
Super easy and quick. Plus free!
Simple but clever and smart !
Kept it simple silly, seems to work great for me thanks
Now I have a use for that scrap of 2x4 my wife has been telling me to get rid of for five years!! 😂 See, Honey! I knew I'd need that eventually!
Mr. Socket got a special encore! 😂
There is always many uses for tools and things not always there designed purpose either. Like the first time I really used one of my school books while in high school. It was a perfect wheel chock, manual trans and no parking brake finally got to use algebra….. well the book 😉
@@VinylVillageGarage I make all my metal patches with a framing hammer and a chunk of rail road track as an anvil. 😂
Brilliant!! I love it.
Great advice...
Thanks!
Jon, thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips on body work with tools everyone has. You would of been a great shop teacher.
It was in the plans at one time in my life to work as the instructor at the vocational school I went to years ago. The timing when it came available didn’t work out.
Over the entire restoration a couple of extra hours to get your cars gaps and body work dialed is minimal, and can really set it apart from others. Excellent how to again. 👍
I saw the this technique years ago on a tv show and used it ever since
Incredible John!!👍🏽
Thank you!! It works great
Another great video just had to do mine but it was OER from classic Fierbirds it was my second one the first was from National Parts Depo it was really bad I like the socket trick I used this small piece of wood I might get done with this bird by summers end lol keep them coming your advice and teaching all the stuff you have to do to restore a Fierbird or any car is spot on and invaluable! John.🙂
Glad to help and i do appreciate you keeping tabs on the progress too. Thank you for watching and letting me know how I am doing
Same weather here in Toronto Canada 🇨🇦 😊 JR
lol. Yup 75 yesterday and sunny today 45 and rainy. 🤷♂️ thankful to have a garage.
Thanks for the tips!
Anytime, a few minutes before paint tweaking gaps will pay immensely in the end.
@@VinylVillageGarage
End result will be worth it!
Nothing is better than Low-Tech! I’m headed out to “massage” mine right now. Driver side front corner is up quite a bit. I figure we’re actually bending the hinge lever.
You did replace a lot of metal so it might need additional persuading to get it dialed in.
I learned that from Chip Foose about 10yrs ago and it still blows my mind how this simple procedure is so effective! Great work as always John.
Interestingly enough I saw him do that on a 67 gto on overhaulin years ago that is where I got the idea myself.
@@VinylVillageGarage LOL exact same for me!
@@burntclutches that is where I got my “tips” years ago. UA-cam didn’t exist so I picked all I could wherever I could.
Nice job as always. Thank you.
Anytime, it’s the little things that add up
@Mt.Dew - they should sponsor you! 😊
Yes please!!
My 69 camaro has this problem. Now I know how to fix it. Thanks
Right on.
Great work! The great pumpking is really getting there. I just have to say you do some amazing things with a 2x4 and a hammer. Thank you for sharing this.
Using what I have at hand and most people might is what I do best. I am too cheap and try to keep a tight budget. Not to mention it works great. Hope to be painting this car very soon
@@VinylVillageGarage Looking forward to seeing some paint on it. Been super busy here trying to get my bird ready to travel.
@@shaggyscarshop I bet. Did you get the engine back in?
@@VinylVillageGarage I did, had to take the whole nose and core suppot off, drop the steering rack and fight with one hard to get to bolt lol.
@@VinylVillageGarage Ill send you a pic
excellent tip Jon. I had to do this on my 69 Camaro AMD cowl hood a couple years ago. I ended up having to put a skim of filler due to small dents but blocked out nicely. Thanks for sharing and keep saving them birds!
I would rather have a little filler on a panel that fits tight as opposed to a large gap. Just about every replacement panel I have bought needs a little persuasion so figured its good info on a way to make it happen
I found that the socket method created a pretty good dent in my trunk lid. Wound up using my hammer and dolly on the edges to match the contour to the quarter panels. I will use a spot puller to bring those lows up and skim coat. My edges are now where they need to be.
Thank you , i have to create the leading edge arch onbthebtrunk lid to match the gap panel
Cutting and welding to modify the gap works the best for me.
Cool video brother I have to try a BFH one day on these old bird's
It works great, especially on aftermarket panels
Whats the Amazon Link for that 2x4 and Brick? lol great video... Me learning!!!
They are on sale buy one get on free plus it comes with assistance too. For the small price of a plane ticket
Took me a few trunk lids to get one that fit good and I still had to manipulate it a bit.
What brands did you try? I have tried a few and most are awful. Has the best luck with the AMD it was the first time I tried one but I have also heard people say they where awful as well.
@@VinylVillageGarage I don't recall, but the Original worked well and the AMD aftermarket did too. The only reason I went with an aftermarket was because I was too lazy to fix all the holes.
@@GoGoGarage I understand, I did a replacement because of rust issues. Glad to her that AMD was decent. I will stick with them for future builds too.
Thanks, looks very simple and makes a huge difference! Awesome tip! I don’t understand why but seems like most of these cars end up with Camaro rear spoiler’s myself if I had to have a rear spoiler I would go with the 69 T/A spoiler that way I’m keeping it all Pontiac! Just my 2cents 🤷🏻♂
The 1969 model year the TA spoiler was an option for any car from the dealer. Well that’s what my memory is telling me anyway.
Need it dig out my books and find that again to confirm.
Update the book says it was a dealer option to install a 1969 trans am
Style spoiler was released October of 1968. It was a kit that included spoiler and trunk springs.
Great tips! I remember the first time I manipulated the edge of a hood. I was in my early 20s and I was scared to death that I was going to ruin my new sheet metal. I was wondering where you purchased the bulk of the metal for this car? I'm getting ready to place an order for my '68 and would like a recommendation for a reputable vendor.
I did a bulk order all from AMD for this car and very very happy with the fitment. 1/4 panels fit exceptionally well to the tail panel. I will be using them again for my next build as well
I am having that problem on the drivers side closing. the corner will not go down
Is it the original trunk lid ?
Do you have another to try the car? Trying to figure out is it the hinge or the deck lid. Then fix accordingly
Whack a thon! Very nice trick and quick. How does it latch up?
Hopefully good I have not installed the latch yet. I don’t for see any issues
Who would have thunk a 2x4 could be so handy? I had some scrap Delrin that I rescued from work that's my go to when force is applied by hammer. But your 2x4 action is perfect! Question, I know the rubber trunk seal will compress, but after some whacking does the seal fit change? Or does the latch hold down just squishes it into place? THANKS for your insight, John I can't wait to see the paint after all that work.
This is good question and I almost forgot something. 😬 I normally install the seal
And inspect the gap as well, I have had the seal keep the trunk deck up too high. With the seal installed and let it set latched for a couple weeks to compress the seal then inspect and adjust as necessary. I am ordering a trunk seal today!!! Phenomenal question and thanks for asking you might have help save the day.
I kept my old trunk seal it wasn't all tore up I had a lot of gutter work they weren't right (national parts depot) and I cut it up because had to do a lot of put in channel take out but I would not recommend National Parts depot to anybody nothing but hate to say but junk AMD or OER I found are the best AMD #1
Great video. Getting ready to start on my 68 bird any day now. quick question, do you strip the edp coating on the underside of your deck lids and inside of your quarter skins?
Not normally on the inside of panels. Edp was designed to just scuff and paint over, I don’t trust it enough for outside panels. It would not hurt to strip the insides and paint them, I see it as I only have a few hours a week to play Cars and feel I can spend that time doing something else.
Any shims between the lid and hinges?
I haven’t used them. I have seen car with them it’s a plausible solution
😎
👍 appreciate it
It's just sheet metal , not magic to make it straight.
Yup a little persuasion makes it happen.