Yeah man that's why when I change a CV axel in my 08' SLT, I just unbolt the 2 caliper bracket bolts (NoT the caliper bolts) but the two BRACKET bolts, and hang the whole thing from a bungee cord off the coil spring so its out of the way and this way you don't have to mess with brake lines, or slider bolts, or pads, or anything, just leave it all together and hang it there. Crank off the axel nut, pull of the rotor, knock out the upper ball joint, and rotate your knuckle. No messing with unbolting shocks, and sway bar end links, and no fucking up brake lines. But atleast she has perfect brakes now man. Great job and good video man!
Mike, you're a champ. I was about to go to the junk yard to pick up a modulator off of a similar truck as mine. After watching your video, I think I will just have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership. Oh, how I'm dreading it. Also, I was screaming at the video to tell you that the fluid was pouring out the bottom of the truck. HAHAHA!! Thanks for the well informed video. Merry Christmas.
I appreciate the kind words Miguel. I could have edited out my mistakes but I wanted to show all of the realities of doing this job. Glad you found it informative and funny,. Thanks and Merry Christmas to you too!
I live in the same area as you. I just installed a used ABS module and pump unit in my 2001 suburban, that I pulled from a junkyard. However, I believe I have to do the same process as you(program and bleed) this replacement ABS unit. From what I see tech2win is only available to shops? How does a DIYer like myself, gain access to use the software? If it is possible for me to somehow gain access to use the software, where do I purchase the connection to go from ethernet to the diagnostic/programming port on the suburban or from USB port to the diagnostic port/programming port on the suburban. Any help appreciated. Thanks
Good video 👍🏼. Ima about to replace the abs pump Cause their was a blockage on my 2 front wheels .and calipers stays stock close. My question is can I still do the bleeding process or it have to be reprogrammed first? Thank you 👍🏼
I have a 2010 Tahoe and perivious mechanic took off the brake lines going from the master cylinder to the EBCM. The EBCM has the both of the bigger 5/16 brake lines marked as port 1 and port 2, with port 1 being on the top right closest to the frame. Any advice on which port goes to the front of the master. I believe port one goes to the back of the master cylinder next to the powerbooster and port 2 goes on the front side towards the headlights. Thanks for the video btw it was a huge help.
Hey, all, I'm so sorry to jack this thread, but I have run out of places to post this and I think this might be the best place. This has to do with upgrading the rear drums on my 1999 Tahoe 2-dr 4WD to discs...a job I had done last week. So, here is the list of the things I did, in order, to my Hoe reference to its brakes: 1. Upgraded the front discs to Powerstop with bigger rotors and calipers (2014) 2. Converted to the Hydro-boost braking system (hydraulic instead of the old vacuum) (2015) 3. Installed a rear drum to disc conversion kit (last week - July 2018) 4. Upgraded all of the old rubber brake lines to braided steel lines Now, here is the issue I am having. The shop that installed the rear discs could not get them to bleed. They stated they would need a specific hand-tool computer to instruct the ABS system to bleed the brakes. They stated they did not think the new rear brakes were "grabbing" and it was "a hydraulic problem, not a fluid problem." So I had the truck towed to my local dealer, as I was afraid to drive it (I did get in and stepped on the brakes while the engine was running and the pedal was mushy and went close to the floorboard, and the red BRAKE light was lit on my dashboard. So, I went to my local Chevrolet dealer and they were able to bleed the brakes. They stated there was not enough pressure/fluid going from the ABS module/EBCM to the rear calipers and there was nothing else they would or could do. They did suggest I go to a local speed shop (Lopers) to see if they would install an automatic proportioning valve to get more pressure to the rear disc brakes. So, I went to Lopers and they said the dealer was full of shit and they would have to entirely remove the existing ABS system from my Tahoe and "re-plumb it" to the tune of about 2000 dollars. Yikes! So, here is my question: I have to believe there is an easier fix to this than what I am hearing. For example, in 1999, Chevy had disc brakes all the way around on the OBS Suburbans and 3/4 ton and larger pick up trucks, with four-wheel ABS and I have to assume they worked fine and got pressure/fluid. So, basically, what my system is now (with the exception of the stock BPMV, EBCM and ABS module) is what was in a 1999 OBS Suburban or 3/4 ton or larger pick-up truck. Is it just a matter of upgrading my BPMV, EBCM (and having it programmed) and ABS module (I have a Kelsey-Hayes system) to what is in the 1999 Suburban / 3/4 ton truck? Or am I fu**ked? I need info and options, brother. Please help!!!!!
I am changing the module on my 08 Yukon XL denali. The pump is good but the module is bad. I do not have access to a tech 2 . Can this be driven to the dealer after for programming?
Great video! I put a good salvaged EBCM in my tahoe after my original EBCM failed. Exact same part number etc. It works fine with no abs issues at all, but gives me a yaw rate error C0196 keeping stabilitrak and traction control saying service. I'm certain this is due to the used module swap. Do these chevy factory modules have the ability to relearn or be programmed to work with other modules in a different vehicle or did I mess up by saving money to get a used module only to have the stabilitrak and traction control stay on for the rest of the vehicles existence. Thanks again for the informative video.
I have good brakes in my 08 yukon xl denali and all new rotors and pads. but my service brake soon is on. i recently replaced my right front caliper ... can it needing properly bled cause the light?
How much would you charge to do a job like this I have a 2010 Chevy avalanche 4x4 and it seems as though all of gm’s trucks from 07-13 are plagued with this same issue just random when the problem occurs Btw I’m in the Phila pa area so wouldn’t have a problem driving to you to get the work done
Where did you find the replacement part? Seems like none of the auto parts stores have them in stock. I tried looking online but only find 25912640 instead of 25949516. Thank you
I used gmpartsdirect.com. It'll allow you to enter the VIN for your vehicle and it'll list the parts that are a direct fit for your vehicle. It's possible that 25949516 has been superseded and is no longer available. I hope this helps.
I just acquired a 2002 Tahoe and need to replace the ABS module just as you did. I've never used a computer to bleed brakes. Is that program something available to the general public? If so, how much would it cost me? Thank you for the great video.
You don't necessarily need the computer to bleed the brakes. Most quality scan tools have that function. Programming the module to the vehicle is where most folks get tripped up. All manufacturers offer their programming software to the repair industry but programming requires a J2534 pass-through device in order to communicate with the vehicle. Pass-throughs are not cheap so it may not make sense to purchase one if you'll only use it once. I'd suggest contacting local shops to see who can program the unit. If they don't have the equipment, see if there is a mobile service like mine, Eye Can Fix That, LLC that can come to you to do it.
Working on a 09 tahoe for police department.. Traction control and ABS light come on scan tool says CAN bus A U0073 I was gueesing this module was bad but i dont like to guess how can i test this issue???
Big man I just recently replaced the EBCM and I have the Autel maxisys scan tool. I can read the live data and error codes and do automatic bleed but how to I program the EBCM I don’t see the function
I have a 2007 sierra 1500 that has no power from ebcm to the left front wheel sensor. I replaced the ebcm and still have same result . Can someone let me know which wire is for the left front wheel sensor that feeds into the ebcm . thank you.
It'll probably have to go to the dealer but you can try to call a few local body shops to see if they have any mobile companies that they use for module programming.
This is horrible...this shouldn't be that complicated, and they shouldn't hold this kind of monopoly on this kind of critical part. I've been reading several boards, and this thing ABM module seems to fail quite often. In August 2016, I replaced the front rotors and brakes, and the problem ended--until two weeks ago. The silly lights came back on for a day or two, then went back off. Now they're on again. But what I've learned is that this part is in a lot of other manufacturers' vehicles, all with the same problem.
It's probably driveable after you bleed it thoroughly, but I'm really not sure and I wouldn't recommend it. You'll never be able to get all of the air out without doing the bleed procedure with a scan tool, and you probably can't do the bleed procedure until the control module is properly programmed.
I’m just replacing the ebcm, not the whole assembly so no bleeding necessary. Would that still require the programming or was the reason you had to go through that only to re-bleed the system after replacing the abs valve?
I use a Drew Technologies Cardaq M as the vehicle interface then I log into ACdelco tds, pay the subscription and then do the configuration and programming work there. then I used a good quality aftermarket scan tool to clear all the codes, monitor the data stream and verify that everything is working properly.
Mike... That’s for that video... 100% I have a 05 Yukon Denali XL I have a CODE: C0131 with “NO” ABS/BRAKE Warning lights on Dash. (NEW CALIPERS and PADS) Brakes fill like they’re LOCKED can’t more the vehicle. Any suggestions would be HIGHLY appreciated...
Hello, i have 2017 equinox and i believe i have issues with my ABS module, my question is, will I be able to drive my car after i replace the module without programming it? I can replace it my self but then i will have to drive it to the dealer to program it. Also will they be able to program the used module?
I strongly recommend against using used electronic parts. However, yes, it will be drivable but the antilock brakes will not work. You should call your dealer first to see if they'll program a used part. A lot of times they won't do it. I know for certain that a used part CAN be reprogrammed, so don't let them tell you it can't.
So dealer was not able to programed it, but at least he did not charge me. I managed to remove plastic cover, then read the eprom info and pasted it into the new (used) abs module and it worked! No lights and abs working properly.
Drew Honnoll The pads and rotors were only about 6 months old. I guess the video makes them look worse than they are. I just drove the truck 400 miles to Asheville, NC on those same pads and rotors so I’m positive they are still good.
This video sucks I am replacing my ab module in a 08 yukon denali I'm going on day 3 and still not done. I've been doing it on my back this whole time.
Yeah man that's why when I change a CV axel in my 08' SLT, I just unbolt the 2 caliper bracket bolts (NoT the caliper bolts) but the two BRACKET bolts, and hang the whole thing from a bungee cord off the coil spring so its out of the way and this way you don't have to mess with brake lines, or slider bolts, or pads, or anything, just leave it all together and hang it there. Crank off the axel nut, pull of the rotor, knock out the upper ball joint, and rotate your knuckle. No messing with unbolting shocks, and sway bar end links, and no fucking up brake lines. But atleast she has perfect brakes now man. Great job and good video man!
Mike, you're a champ. I was about to go to the junk yard to pick up a modulator off of a similar truck as mine. After watching your video, I think I will just have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership. Oh, how I'm dreading it. Also, I was screaming at the video to tell you that the fluid was pouring out the bottom of the truck. HAHAHA!! Thanks for the well informed video. Merry Christmas.
I appreciate the kind words Miguel. I could have edited out my mistakes but I wanted to show all of the realities of doing this job. Glad you found it informative and funny,. Thanks and Merry Christmas to you too!
this was very helpful
I live in the same area as you. I just installed a used ABS module and pump unit in my 2001 suburban, that I pulled from a junkyard. However, I believe I have to do the same process as you(program and bleed) this replacement ABS unit. From what I see tech2win is only available to shops? How does a DIYer like myself, gain access to use the software? If it is possible for me to somehow gain access to use the software, where do I purchase the connection to go from ethernet to the diagnostic/programming port on the suburban or from USB port to the diagnostic port/programming port on the suburban. Any help appreciated. Thanks
Good video 👍🏼. Ima about to replace the abs pump Cause their was a blockage on my 2 front wheels .and calipers stays stock close. My question is can I still do the bleeding process or it have to be reprogrammed first? Thank you 👍🏼
Well just like you, I've got a bad EBCM on my 08 SLT, but thankfully I won't be messing with the BPMV (Brake Pressure Modulator Valve )
I have a 2010 Tahoe and perivious mechanic took off the brake lines going from the master cylinder to the EBCM. The EBCM has the both of the bigger 5/16 brake lines marked as port 1 and port 2, with port 1 being on the top right closest to the frame. Any advice on which port goes to the front of the master. I believe port one goes to the back of the master cylinder next to the powerbooster and port 2 goes on the front side towards the headlights. Thanks for the video btw it was a huge help.
Hey, all, I'm so sorry to jack this thread, but I have run out of places to post this and I think this might be the best place. This has to do with upgrading the rear drums on my 1999 Tahoe 2-dr 4WD to discs...a job I had done last week.
So, here is the list of the things I did, in order, to my Hoe reference to its brakes:
1. Upgraded the front discs to Powerstop with bigger rotors and calipers (2014)
2. Converted to the Hydro-boost braking system (hydraulic instead of the old vacuum) (2015)
3. Installed a rear drum to disc conversion kit (last week - July 2018)
4. Upgraded all of the old rubber brake lines to braided steel lines
Now, here is the issue I am having. The shop that installed the rear discs could not get them to bleed. They stated they would need a specific hand-tool computer to instruct the ABS system to bleed the brakes. They stated they did not think the new rear brakes were "grabbing" and it was "a hydraulic problem, not a fluid problem." So I had the truck towed to my local dealer, as I was afraid to drive it (I did get in and stepped on the brakes while the engine was running and the pedal was mushy and went close to the floorboard, and the red BRAKE light was lit on my dashboard.
So, I went to my local Chevrolet dealer and they were able to bleed the brakes. They stated there was not enough pressure/fluid going from the ABS module/EBCM to the rear calipers and there was nothing else they would or could do. They did suggest I go to a local speed shop (Lopers) to see if they would install an automatic proportioning valve to get more pressure to the rear disc brakes.
So, I went to Lopers and they said the dealer was full of shit and they would have to entirely remove the existing ABS system from my Tahoe and "re-plumb it" to the tune of about 2000 dollars. Yikes!
So, here is my question: I have to believe there is an easier fix to this than what I am hearing. For example, in 1999, Chevy had disc brakes all the way around on the OBS Suburbans and 3/4 ton and larger pick up trucks, with four-wheel ABS and I have to assume they worked fine and got pressure/fluid.
So, basically, what my system is now (with the exception of the stock BPMV, EBCM and ABS module) is what was in a 1999 OBS Suburban or 3/4 ton or larger pick-up truck. Is it just a matter of upgrading my BPMV, EBCM (and having it programmed) and ABS module (I have a Kelsey-Hayes system) to what is in the 1999 Suburban / 3/4 ton truck? Or am I fu**ked? I need info and options, brother. Please help!!!!!
I am changing the module on my 08 Yukon XL denali. The pump is good but the module is bad. I do not have access to a tech 2 . Can this be driven to the dealer after for programming?
Great video!
I put a good salvaged EBCM in my tahoe after my original EBCM failed. Exact same part number etc. It works fine with no abs issues at all, but gives me a yaw rate error C0196 keeping stabilitrak and traction control saying service. I'm certain this is due to the used module swap. Do these chevy factory modules have the ability to relearn or be programmed to work with other modules in a different vehicle or did I mess up by saving money to get a used module only to have the stabilitrak and traction control stay on for the rest of the vehicles existence.
Thanks again for the informative video.
I have good brakes in my 08 yukon xl denali and all new rotors and pads. but my service brake soon is on. i recently replaced my right front caliper ... can it needing properly bled cause the light?
Wish I would have seen your video BEFORE I did this job...
How much would you charge to do a job like this I have a 2010 Chevy avalanche 4x4 and it seems as though all of gm’s trucks from 07-13 are plagued with this same issue just random when the problem occurs
Btw I’m in the Phila pa area so wouldn’t have a problem driving to you to get the work done
Dang that’s a good camera 🎥 what kind is that
What would I need to do if I can’t get the line to tighten back on cause every time I try to tighten the line the bolt just slides up on me
Where did you find the replacement part? Seems like none of the auto parts stores have them in stock. I tried looking online but only find 25912640 instead of 25949516. Thank you
I used gmpartsdirect.com. It'll allow you to enter the VIN for your vehicle and it'll list the parts that are a direct fit for your vehicle. It's possible that 25949516 has been superseded and is no longer available. I hope this helps.
I just acquired a 2002 Tahoe and need to replace the ABS module just as you did. I've never used a computer to bleed brakes. Is that program something available to the general public? If so, how much would it cost me? Thank you for the great video.
You don't necessarily need the computer to bleed the brakes. Most quality scan tools have that function. Programming the module to the vehicle is where most folks get tripped up. All manufacturers offer their programming software to the repair industry but programming requires a J2534 pass-through device in order to communicate with the vehicle. Pass-throughs are not cheap so it may not make sense to purchase one if you'll only use it once. I'd suggest contacting local shops to see who can program the unit. If they don't have the equipment, see if there is a mobile service like mine, Eye Can Fix That, LLC that can come to you to do it.
Working on a 09 tahoe for police department.. Traction control and ABS light come on scan tool says CAN bus A U0073 I was gueesing this module was bad but i dont like to guess how can i test this issue???
Do you still have your old abs
Big man I just recently replaced the EBCM and I have the Autel maxisys scan tool. I can read the live data and error codes and do automatic bleed but how to I program the EBCM I don’t see the function
It has to be done with a factory scanner
I have a 2007 sierra 1500 that has no power from ebcm to the left front wheel sensor. I replaced the ebcm and still have same result
. Can someone let me know which wire is for the left front wheel sensor that feeds into the ebcm . thank you.
So, what do you do if you don't have the program to reconfigure a new part?
It'll probably have to go to the dealer but you can try to call a few local body shops to see if they have any mobile companies that they use for module programming.
This is horrible...this shouldn't be that complicated, and they shouldn't hold this kind of monopoly on this kind of critical part. I've been reading several boards, and this thing ABM module seems to fail quite often.
In August 2016, I replaced the front rotors and brakes, and the problem ended--until two weeks ago. The silly lights came back on for a day or two, then went back off. Now they're on again. But what I've learned is that this part is in a lot of other manufacturers' vehicles, all with the same problem.
you have to take it to gm dealer so they can write the VIN into the new module
Is it driveable without being calibrated? I ask because I'm 30miles from the nearest dealership that could program it after I finish my install.
It's probably driveable after you bleed it thoroughly, but I'm really not sure and I wouldn't recommend it. You'll never be able to get all of the air out without doing the bleed procedure with a scan tool, and you probably can't do the bleed procedure until the control module is properly programmed.
I’m just replacing the ebcm, not the whole assembly so no bleeding necessary. Would that still require the programming or was the reason you had to go through that only to re-bleed the system after replacing the abs valve?
What are you using for the handshake?
I use a Drew Technologies Cardaq M as the vehicle interface then I log into ACdelco tds, pay the subscription and then do the configuration and programming work there. then I used a good quality aftermarket scan tool to clear all the codes, monitor the data stream and verify that everything is working properly.
@@eyecanfixthat8802 Thank you. I had purchased a Tech 2 clone, but think I want to move to a good MDI.
How would I find myself a fella like yourself here in Sacramento Ca? Like what do I google?
Does anyone know if you have to do the programming on a 2009 Suburban 1500 LT
Yes, if you're replacing the module it definitely needs to be programmed.
Mike... That’s for that video... 100% I have a 05 Yukon Denali XL I have a CODE: C0131 with “NO” ABS/BRAKE Warning lights on Dash. (NEW CALIPERS and PADS) Brakes fill like they’re LOCKED can’t more the vehicle. Any suggestions would be HIGHLY appreciated...
Also C0279 code
Hello, i have 2017 equinox and i believe i have issues with my ABS module, my question is, will I be able to drive my car after i replace the module without programming it?
I can replace it my self but then i will have to drive it to the dealer to program it.
Also will they be able to program the used module?
I strongly recommend against using used electronic parts. However, yes, it will be drivable but the antilock brakes will not work. You should call your dealer first to see if they'll program a used part. A lot of times they won't do it. I know for certain that a used part CAN be reprogrammed, so don't let them tell you it can't.
So dealer was not able to programed it, but at least he did not charge me. I managed to remove plastic cover, then read the eprom info and pasted it into the new (used) abs module and it worked! No lights and abs working properly.
@@kozak1265 Where in the software did you do that?
@@bobbyrebussini1466 I used car prog...google it
@@kozak1265 Which one was it?
6:13 no PBBlaster? 7:10 that's what she said.
23:18 top right you can see it leaking dot3 all over your floor lol.
We had to bleed at the master cylinder with it installed.
I'm watching the bottle and noticed the puddle of fluid under the truck
Should have just took the caliper off and tied it back out of the way.
Most GM Vehicles!
Wow new calipers but not new discs or turn them and new pads. Those rotors are SCORED UP BAD
Drew Honnoll The pads and rotors were only about 6 months old. I guess the video makes them look worse than they are. I just drove the truck 400 miles to Asheville, NC on those same pads and rotors so I’m positive they are still good.
All you had to do was put some grease in the boot and clean up the outside of the boot and cover the tear with some silicone and seal the tear. Duh!
Простите, но я НИЧЕГО не понял 🤔
This video sucks I am replacing my ab module in a 08 yukon denali I'm going on day 3 and still not done. I've been doing it on my back this whole time.
Your not Avery good mechanic!