My 1980 Shovelhead Tour Glide is BROKEN... Not Happy...
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2023
- My Shovelhead Tour Glide is BROKEN... Not Happy... The 1980 Shovelhead Tour Glide I bought recently is giving me trouble. Turn signals and Brake lights work, but the running lights and headlights do not. I am thinking the problem lies in the original 43 year old @harleydavidson ignition switch. We'll see! #harleydavidson #TourGlide #Shovelhead #roadglide #streetglide #FLT #FLH #vintagemotorcycles #vintageharley #smokeout
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/ @professionalmonkey - Авто та транспорт
Unplug all your lights. Then turn on the light switch. Now plug each light back in one at a time until the breaker trips. That way you can find the circuit with the short, making it easier to find the short
as a 25 year veteran of the shovelhead war that bike will be a character builder for sure. that evo sportster chopper is nothing compared to the shit storm a shovel can give ya. good luck friend
Straighten the forks and try the lights. The wires break down in the harness at the “pivot point” over time from turning the forks. If that’s the issue, sometimes straightening the forks relieves the pressure on the wires in the harness and things will work. If that’s the case you’ll know where to look for shorts or broken wires.
Good suggestion! One I overlooked in my troubleshooting comment...
I agree. Look for the chaffed or broken wire at the pivot point
Hi, I have one of these 1980 FLT's for 37 years and ride it every year. I am an automotive electrician and you need to pull the fairing plug on the lower right side to break the circuit to head lanps, if the breaker still opens, go to the rear fender plug and do the same. The common places for a short on these is the rear fender harness and he front fender light wire. Good luck it will be the last place you look to find it.
First step is to get a manual with a wiring diagram. Then use a volt ohm meter to check shorts to ground at the connections on the lights. Look for bare wires under the seat and fenders and around the fork that moves when you turn the bars. You can disconnect wires at terminals until it stops tripping the circuit breaker. Take your time and be methodical. Wiring diagram is a must.
Use a test light for continuity instead of throwing parts at it... the test light will tell you what you need to know. Working on old bikes is fun as long as it is not your only ride. Best of luck :-)
The clicking you heard is the breaker tripping What have you touched before the light breaker started to trip? Did you take off the seat? If so then check if you pinched a wire under it when you put it back on. Start with whatever you have messed with, cuz before you touched the bike everything was fine. Think of what has changed. I know this sounds dumb but it's the little things that mess up these old bikes. Good luck
What Maddog said, unplug all the lights (at the bulb) and then add them in one by one to see which is your issue. Good luck.
Check the plugs at each light and make sure they plugs are clean and no breaks in the wires
When the breaker opens, is there a noticeable heat from one of the wires to that breaker? If so, trace that wire.
Also check battery voltage, the battery just may be low enough to have started it but not enough to sustain it
I’ve liked all the comments that include my suggestions Basically this bike has set a spell. Start by checking temperatures at bulb connections and at the rectifier
I would also as suggested by someone to check the front fender and the rear wiring to the respective lamps
I’ve always had a knack for finding wiring issues. I’d like to think I have made suggestions that will be easy and systematic to follow
I’d like to know what you find.
It may well end up neighbors an accumulation of resistance from slightly corroded connections throughout the lighting system.
I assume the bike has hi/low beams. Check the switch. Sometime the switch will short and cause both the high and low bulbs to receive power at the same time which with trip the breaker. It’s rare but I’ve seen it happen on older vehicles. Bike should be much different.
At this point just to avoid any more issues... Wouldn't a complete rewire be the shitty solution... Ya alot of work... But you will know that bike inside and out...and there has to be a wire wizard you know that can do a video with you.. would be great... Great video look forward to more
I think those are circuit breakers, not relays. You are right about a short circuit. That is why the breaker is tripping.
1980 FLT is also the first year of the square backbone frame. Harley Davidson',s first full-fledged touring bike.
🎯 good trivia question!
I would clean all the plugs at the bulbs. If it sat for a while they got corroded and drawing too many amps. Clean your ground to the battery and cross fingers lol
Ignition/lights switch.
You need to get yourself a "Power Probe" you can test wires and see if one is broken or if one is grounding out or etc and well as send power or ground to whatever your working on. All with the power probe its by far one of my most used tools EVER
I had a 1986 FLT that made 13 trips to Sturgis. It was a Cadillac but it needed a rebuild at 80k and i bought a 2013 with a 103 engine. Not happy like i was with '86. Its a great bike but only use 45 to 60 days a year now for Sturgis isnt worth it. I had light issue at Sturgis and checed everthing. The mechanic watching me said go get new headlight bulbs. That seamed to fix my wire problem. I remember a pin in one headlight was loose and causing a disconnect. Good luck. Hope you find it quickly before you go nuts!id shake my headlight wire after starting bike and id be fine.
If the tank decal matches 81’ then research paint colors & pinstripe colors available for 81’. Gold on yours might be an 81 color. At body shop I work in, if I can’t find a code for the year I’m working then common practice is to check previous year colors. If close to following year model then I’ll check the following years. Maybe checking 79’ & 81’ color/stripe options will help. If not then My bad for wasting your time lol…. Cool bike tho! Keep on keepin on & safe travels man 🤘🏻
Thanks, that was a great idea. I just checked, unfortunately Tour Glides have never been giold.
Check the wire that runs to the front fender running light, insulation scraped off.
Really glad I met you & the Mrs. in Sturgis! Enjoyed hanging with y'all, and Bill. The Time Machine chopper is killer!
Remove the rectifier to stator plug in at the lower left of the engine case. Clean the terminal pins with dielectric cleaner and a small pin brush. Re install with dielectric grease. Check battery voltage.
But the bike starts and runs fine, just a short in the running lights, why get into the charging system?
@@ProfessionalMonkey
Why ask why Mr. Monkey?!
By the way, I just had a charging system issue on my 2016 Electra Glide Ultra where I had the battery light come on as I was riding on my way home and it was on for about 20 miles!
Took it to the dealership where I bought it, they hooked their computer up to it and found no issues and no stored codes!
They ended up keeping it for two weeks and finally ordered a new stator and regulator and installed them to fix the problem!
It’s always the electrical gremlins that get ya!!!
The light system operates off of a 4 blade latching relay (square type). This relay is fed by a 2 pole rectangular relay ( 1 stud copper colored and 1 stud silver colored ). These two relays can be tested first to elimate a fault in the headlight/running light on/off position of your ignition switch. Also, headlamp plug ground at the plug itself can cause a no headlamp condition. The rectifer/stator connection should be checked and cleaned annually, or anytime electrical gremlins arise. Low or too high AC voltage from the stator can cause the DC relays to fail or operate intermittently. Also, check all grounds for common to the battery ground. Most electrical problems are pretty simple to repair by process of elimination. Good luck with your beautiful FLT!
Check. For power at. Hi beam and low beam. Switch.
Check the ground on the battery
hilarious, it's like I'm actually working on the same crap with the same issues. Found your show a couple weeks ago, I love the authenticity. Thanks for keeping it all real. I learned a lot about Hondas and Yamaha's and of course I know a lot of car stuff, and I always shyed away from harleys. Looking to get into my first soon. All those little facts? those that you give almost apologizing in the videos?, All the ones that you say the old guys know this ,or if you don't know this, or for you newbies, I'm one of those guys and I appreciate all those little drops if knowledge. Appreciate your show and work, and your attitude. F the haters.
Not completely sure if the 1980 will be wired like mine. I have a 1989 Tour Glide. Lights quit on me while out riding to work. After doing everything you just did I found there is a circuit in the lighting that runs through the starter relay. Try replacing the relay under the right side cover. That's what fixed mine.
Love your vids. Brother, you need to go to town and find you a bigger shop! It's time.
Probably could have AC also so you don't sweat your ass of in the Florida humidity. 👍🤟
Crazy history of gold member.
All is old timer’s always locked the covers and they won’t fly off. Lock mine on my 1988. Never have flew away.
Magic boxes rarely go bad. They can…just rarely. And something simple like an old/low battery can make them trip on and off. But more than likely a short or overload causing the issue. Got a 78 sporty and an 88 Electra that’s had both problems.
I have an 1986 tour glide and had a similar problem you should also replace the 552 solenoid. there's also a collective ground that goes to the neck that may need to be cleaned.
Gold member is a beast.
Heres what I would check. You mentioned sometimes it just cuts off? Check the relay that runs from your battery positive terminal and start checking all of your relays, as sometimes relays just simply need to be unplugged or the type with nuts that hold the wires on re surged with a wire you can use that goes to your battery
The bike runs fine, it’s only the lights that cut off.
Might have a dead short causing the circuit breaker to pop then reset.
I’m on my 3 road glide and it’s the oldest one so far
Would love to have the shovel version
I had a72 flh for 19 years
Miss that bike
Being a tech in the auto, truck, and equipment industry and a Motorcycle enthusiast for over 20 years, older is usually simpler, but if you think about it, look at the longevity of newer vehicles. The technology has made them much more reliable. Wiring is wiring, older wiring is usually problematic from age and use. Add in the corrosion and it's a PITA. The newer vehicles are just as problematic after 10 years of use. Older is better when you're a hands on rider / mechanic. But anything with an engine can be a PITA if you're not familiar with it.
The decal on your FLT tank is from a 81’-82’, FLH-80. The 81’ (FLH-80) decal (p/n 61900-81) left , has an “AMF” decal (p/n 61906-81) added above “Harley Davidson Motor Cycles” under the clear coat. In 1982 (AMF bought out) same decal and “AMF” decal was dropped from it. Can’t tell for sure, but it appears that someone has redone the FLT tank with a 81’~82’ FLH-80 decal without the “AMF” decal.
My parts catalog, FL Models 1941 to 1984 (p/n 99456-84B) does not reference a FLT directly. The best I can tell, this is the original decal (p/n 61327-79) left upper, (61328-79) left lower for a FLT.
Awesome that Bill is taking it home to do work on it. 🔥
Check the Bulbs 💡 being it happened so quicky
Ahhh, yes!!! old bikes and their gremlins... My first bike (and first HD) was a '92 Softail that had a salvage title, been rewired, lowered, cam, etc... I was always working on something but damn it was fun to ride (just not fun for my back). Now I ride a '97 Road King, I've modified and worked on it a ton, but it's so much fun... And for those that don't think old bikes are easier to work on. My oil pump drive gear on the crankshaft exploded in mid-April this year destroying the oil pump. I rebuilt the bottom end up before a Memorial Day poker run. Ran it 250 miles alongside a TC110 Road Glide and a brand new Challenger. I had no problem keeping up and I got way more comments than they did :) Then the 3 of us rode down to Sturgis. Again, had no problem running with my buddies on their much newer and fancier machines.... There's just something about a carb'd and cammed Harley.
Someday I'll get a chopper frame and do a Pan, Shovel, or EVO chopper build.... someday...
Gold member seems to be all stock. I recently saw the exact same bike with exact same gold color and brown seat for sale in Wisconsin.
Same thing happened when I took my heritage to pikes peak Harley in Colorado Springs 🤬🤬
The Tour Glide was introduced in 1979 and only 19 FLT's were produced that year. In the following year Harley produced 4480.
Yup, as a 1980 model year. All FLTs produced in 1979 are black also
@@ProfessionalMonkey good stuff
Great share Fam 🤙🏾
Thanks 💯
I found a 100w bulb in a 40w socket in a headlight in my 2000 VFR800 it shorted the ground from the back of the headlight to the frame. People do dumb shit to old bikes😂
Man your getting an impressive collection of bikes. Not a thing wrong with that. Hmmmmm seem maybe a new Garage in your future?....lol gotta have room for the toys. Great idea changing them all, after all the other ones will never go bad hahahahaha Fix it once and done. Great video man. Sorry not been on UA-cam in a bit...stuff happening ....you know STUFF....lol. Little tip on older bikes.....wires rot..hahahahahhaaha and then they short....may be fun....Check any point where they are bound, like Harness and or holders to keep them in place.
I'm about to buy one of these. Black and white two tone
I like the idea of checking while moving the forks. Any ground wires up there in the breadbox looking cruddy?
We've given HD archives information to disprove some of their production numbers on their bikes yet they didn't even bother to say..."Thank you" or anything, they totally suck...
Check all ground to frame connections
I truly dislike chasing electrical gremlins. I once had to repair all the lights on a fleet of semi trailers. Simple wiring you would think, but there 30’ of trailer 13.5’ high so there’s lots of places for things to wear out.
@DWinthekeys
Only 30’???
I’d think even for a 30’ trailer the wiring would be longer than 30’!
How many trailers were part of that fleet???
I’m sure it was no easy task regardless!
@@AzzKicker-bz1cb the trailers were short because we pulled them in a double trailer set up. It was a small fleet, 10 trailers, 3 tractors, and 3 converter dollies (the part the connects the 2 trailers). No one had done any maintenance on them in years and I was tired of getting stopped by the highway patrol.
At least you didnt release the magic smoke yet. So, thats a plus.
Just bypass it for a temp lighting job run a wire with a switch lol
That is the original seat. I had a factory brown seat on my '79, that was ribbed. For pleasure. Push up your glasses one more time. Shovelhead's nickname is Troublehead.
This one isn’t original. The FLTs all had ribbed black seats
uh huh.@@ProfessionalMonkey
Let me know if you need anything from '80 FLT OEM literature (i.e. wiring diagram,etc.) I can scan a few pages as needed & email,etc. > Dirty or loose connection (especially at bulb sockets=usually just a single lamp out going on that theory) Grounds?...MAYBE contacts for lamp position at switch...Check batt V & cables/grounds,etc. That delayed click in center breaker with old AND the new seems like a good clue. Dirty cruddy contacts at on/off switch in lamp position would be my guess since no lamps at all & IF motorcycle starts up & runs normally...??? >> Not saying the '80 FLT did not have a very few special colors produced by dealer or factory but was told by dealership owners BACK IN 1980 (saw mine roll off the truck in 1980 = blue) The '80 FLT came in only 2 colors = either black or blue.Larger dealers got 1 of each color , smaller Mom & Pop were lucky to get 1...I HAVE seen 1 brown '80 FLT that sure as heck looked like OEM paint to me complete with OEM "orange peel" ???(LOL!) > IF HD factory archive people said they came in red & brown = go with that info as they should know & have record of it..If so most likely by request as your gold one might be.
I think you've got it. Pins in the socket were Mines problem.( 86flt).
I changed all of mine a few months ago, cuz mine are all under the outer fairing. Not hard job but fiddly. Mine is an 87 flhtp, with only 170,000 miles.
All i own is knuckles pans and shovelheads all the wiring you have done on the new shit you should be able to figure this out w/ no problem, like your channel.
(Along with Bulbs - the solder on the back of the bulbs, especially if they have started to "black") If you've not already, check the back of the Ignition Switch, a basic switch can yield simple wire contact / short problems (the handlebar cluster / high/low can throw up issues too, though that's generally a broken wire / connection causing smoke and engine cut out problems 😉), I'd start either end starting with the ignition switch and bulbs).
..And why does that Motorcycle seem so familiar to me?
Don’t know??
The manual for my 86 says that if there is an electrical problem the breaker will continue to trip until it's fixed and eventually it will drain your. That is from the factory manual on an 86 though.
Good video
Glad you enjoyed
Did you Check output from light position on switch?
Since I haven’t seen a video on it yet, I guess I’ll just ask… How did Mrs. Monkey do at the Biker Belles Bike Show at the Chip? Only asking because you mentioned (a couple of times) that she registered her white bike in the show.
Yes you have a short
How about the ignition switch
Maybe they burnout, the head light and run light 😊
Got my handlebars wired off the bike. Got them back and right signal and no power to the starter switch. Took the entire bike back to have a plug repinned. Got the bike bike and no left turn signal and the two driving lights aren't working.. . . . .ugh.
Can you find/buy an old service manual? I also believe there is a company that sells wiring diagrams for all model Harley’s online.
Also, what have you moved/taken off/or messed around with BEFORE it stopped working? Good luck.
Yes a wiring diagram would be helpful.
Yup you have to be part electrician, mechanic, engineer, machinist, painter...to own any Harley...if your a lawyer, doctor etc...have deep pockets lol
Try hi &lo beam can you unplug tail light at seat if so try tat
Sometimes if a bulb is faulting it will cause issues... check the bulb contacts and add electrical grease
Glad the Sturgis break is over . Let's see what you get yourself into again 😂
Check the ignition switch.....
Just one more thing, this came from the factory with black oil tank and electrical panels black in color, and if Harley special painted this one they would not have painted over the saddle bag lid stainless latch.
The latches aren’t painted, and the oil tank/battery tray is under fiberglass bodywork.
you have miss understood, the oil tank cover and the electrical cover were black and the front saddle bag hook latch is bright stainless not painted over.@@ProfessionalMonkey
Most likely a short in the tail light is usually the culprit because of all the dirt and water. The short is probably in the tail light
Check all the grounds make sure they are Connect it. If you have not done that yet.
Up and coming drummer in early 80s Milwaukee? Victor DeLorenzo?
Ground wire
head light ?
Do the little holders act as a ground for the relay to complete the circuit??🤷
Short circuits will pop fuses or cause circuit breakers to open up due to excess current flow. A broken wire is an "open" -no current will flow.
Homie here actually rides a trike with an oxygen bottle on the back, he's just not ready to show y'all yet 🤣
???
@@ProfessionalMonkey The old boy in Sons of Aristocrats rode one.. So you gettin your bottom rocker soon hey? 😅
My 1980 FLT shorted the ignition switch to the rocker box. Then the battery low tension to the starter. Then the wires inside the head lamp.
I'm looking forward to the next fun thing the wiring harness delights me with next.
But it is still the best Harley ever made.
I'd love to tell you more about it, but I'm off to the garage to shim my rockers....
Sounds like maybe you don't have a gremlin bell on brown sugar 🤔
New name for the bike: The Gremlin.
Around heat, oil, gas and time the insulation on wires break down and short, even new bikes after years. It's time to buy a complete wire harness and replace the entire thing. Or you're going to be chasing hard to find issue from now on. Like you did by replacing all 3 breakers, replace the harness. It's not as hard as you'd think
See if you have a constant duty Solenoid
Here is how you fix it. Grab a beer and look at it then grab another beer. Repeat steps until drunk and say do I really need lights? I can tape a Olight to front and call it good.
😂😂😂
I should go to bills and put a hidden signature on brown sugar
Good with me!
Switch
I'm Going to guess Victor DeLorenzo/Violent Femmes
Bad ignition
Is it getting hot
You should have taken the bike to Wheels Through Time and had Matt work on it. You want to talk about vintage bike experts I wouldn't take my vintage to anyone else.
Start with disconnecting lites then reinstall one by one till it flips the circuit breaker...problem solved
Coming out to biketoberfest this year?
Nope, I’ll be in Australia for work unfortunately!
Bummer … hope to catch ya an event eventually, gotta check out the bikes in person.
If not the tail light pop the seat and check it where the wiring goes through back fender and into the tail light. Bet you the short is at the tail light or leading up to the tail light.
Unplug the bulb and see if it's curroted if thats not it then unplug the tail light wires under seat at the fender.
If it's in the bread box good luck that is the worst case scenario
Same with BROWN SUGAR. I would check the wires that are running along the fender for wires rubbed first. Work outside in before going to worst case scenario
Old bikes are better to work on.... meaning, anything before a Shovelhead, and the old Evos 😅
is it not illegal to run even in the daylight without lights on now?
It's illegal in Alaska and most state as I know it.
OK...just a thought. Maybe a voltage surge? Might check the headlight bulb and other bulbs and see if they're blown.
Probably a Ground wire issue. I'm currently dealing with that myself.
Edited my previous comment a few times
I don’t see anything other than this?