I'm a kiwi,I love seeing American carpentry,you have alot of great timber, concepts and handy gadgets and the professionalism is just super, well done sensei🤙
As someone who is looking to panel a very old UK house, your video has given me some superb tips on how to set out the panelling. What a great idea to vary the thicknesses of the timber. Thank you
Hi - I know this was posted a while ago but wanted you to know I just completed this in my guest bedroom and it turned out amazing. The tip of choosing a wider board for the top was particularly helpful and made the installation go so much faster, plus reveals are so pleasing to the eye. I have watched loads of “board and batten” videos and yours was the most helpful. Just wanted to made sure I thanked you.
Awesome and super practical way to add wainscoting to any project! The layout explanation was great as well, we aren't just carpenters but also designers and learning how to break up a room and trick the eye is an important skill!
This is great stuff! One of the things I struggle with is figuring out appealing details for clients, so this idea of offsetting material thickness, creating an appealing look AND making less labor for yourself, is awesome!
Excellent work. You have oldschool knowledge and technique that is dying out. Getting harder to find quality contractors who do this level of work at an affordable price. Good stuff!
The people that give 👎to your videos are just pure haters! You do amazing work and your videos are so indepth with great explanations not only for the average DIY'er but for other professional carpenters. Keep up the amazing work and I look forward to watching more videos!
Outstanding, love this approach. Your tips and tricks help so much. I tend to follow Brent Hull, Hull Historical, historical architecture guidelines for wainscot height, gives the best look. 28”-30” for 8’-9’ ceilings and 30”-32” for 10’-12’ ceilings.
Has a painting contractor the offsetting of the material is brilliant couple of months ago I did a brand new house with a good amount of wainscoting flush mounted to each other no biscuit joinery or dowels like you mentioned. Within a month I was back putting Bondo on the seams
Great job and the fact is that room is the boss and that room tells us what to cut and where to cut it. The layout is decided by the room not us carpenters or the customer.
Your videos in almost every case relate to some aspect of “value engineering”. Value engineering is fancy / technical term. A process that minimizes labor, material, scrap etc. without compromising end function. My exposure was in aerospace parts manufacturing. Would be interested to hear your introduction to this process. Self taught? Mentored? Education? -- I too wainscot my dining room using current sheetrock wall, glue and power nailer. Spot on regarding joints cracking. I fancied up the top rail perimeter with small crown molded / top self for wife’s collector plates. As you mention outlets create major layout issues. Keep up your great videos.
I’d say I learned value engineering because it’s an essential concept to understand to be successful trimming new homes. Everyone wants to get the most out of their dollar.
I’m starting wainscoting at home. Had planned to build sections of same thickness stiles and rails joining with pocket holes. I think this method, when cut correctly, will be better for working alone. Thank you very much.
I too am in the middle of a home wainscoting project. My guide for this has been @Finish Carpentry TV so I have backer boards to cover the wallboard texture, and pocket holed all my connections. I am glad I did as my walls are not at all flat. For this dude's method your walls better be very flat. I wish you good luck.
@@rebadaddy Right, thank you. I love Finish Carpentry TV. My walls suck. I do plan on installing MDF on walls first, capping top rail to conceal. I’m moving outlets, also cutting wall to correct hallway outlet controlled by switch in a totally separate room, WTF?? Found too many WTFs rebuilding this place. May still use FCTV method, love pocket holes, if I get help. TY
Really fantastic job on explaining layout challenges and solutions. The room looks excellent. Paint and furniture will hide anything you don’t like personally yet highlight the beautiful job you’ve done. Thanks for the nailing info as well.
I gotta say, you are the best. I always get something out of your videos. I have to work alone, as you, so I learn from you how to do it. In this video, I have to do my wainscotting as cheaply as possible. I studied this video a year ago, and I did it againg just now.
Your process is amazing Spencer! Making simple decisions on different thickness's of materials ,knowing where they will move and keeping it hidden. Then execution is fantastic 👏. We use PPG paintable caulk on all sides of painted cabinets ,before they hit the paintbooth. This keeps the black crack,away from any movement that may happen
I hear you about the layout having multiple issues to solve and the getting a somewhat even appearance. You got it right. I was told to split the windows in half - run the stile under middle of window - but your approach looks better. The windows also add complexity to layout. About heights. Your doors appear 6’-8” (stock) and windows are same height as doors with maybe a 9’ wall. You’re about 6’ tall (72”) give or take a few. You did top rail slightly above mid door (and mid window) - just below your own height. It divides the wall into halves with smaller half being above top rail. That looks right. I added ship lap in my own bedroom. I had to play with the height (I’m 74” tall) with 9’ ceiling. I kept the top rail slightly below 74” and it looks correct - balanced. To me that’s another issue that’s hard to determine but using the visual you presented here, works well for 9’ ceilings. Crown will also tighten up (lessen) the upper wall distance rather nicely. Thanks for the tips!
I wainscotted our front room recently! Now in process of wainscoting our chimney breast in bedroom. Sort of like a feature wall! Adding adding interior shelves to inside of chimney alcoves. Looking sweet. Just done filling and sanding today, first coat of paint tomorrow.
The biggest thing is always use appropriate size nails especially on older homes because you are not shooting into studs and there are wires , plumbing, gas lines ,etc and you can nail a plumbing pipe and you will never know until the nail rust through and if its under pressure you will have major damage if not caught in time! I know l made that mistake!!! Remember the glue is what holds everything in place not the nails!! Good luck and awesome video!!!
I just wish I could find someone in my area with your skills - I have fault over and over again, getting my trim crews to understand the benefit of different sized mating materials. Nice vid.
So the door / window casing is 1 1/4”, the rails are 3/4”, and the stiles are 5/8”. I do love the chunky casing around doors & windows! Looks great, per usual.
Spencer I recently did two of these? Where were you? No I am throwing down a price 4 a M/B remodel! This will help give the customer a great look & product as opposed to glue on bead board! Thank you Spencer great teaching video! By the way I am Kings Table Custom Finish Carpentry! U know the crazy grandsons!👊
I have seen so many videos on wainscoting for this type of construction. You are very good at your craft and explain small details that do matter. I am thinking of doing my bedroom and I want to do it right! I do have lightly texture walls, any suggestions concerning using board and batter techniques?
Looks great. I don't like using any caulk or wood putty to hide the gaps like it tight joint. Takes a challenge like you said to set up the OC stiles. But you've done a great job.
I want to do some wainscoting in my house. It's a 25-year-old trailer, so I don't want to put a bunch on money into it, but there is wallpaper in the dining room that is damaged along the bottom on one wall. This gave me some great ideas on how to tackle this on a budget.
How are you calculating your spacing to come out equally on all 4 walls especially when each wall may have a unique issue such as a window or a door. Your work is GREAT! I am considering doing my small guest room 11 x 12 but am having a difficult time with the calculations and having equal spacing and still going around doors and windows in the room - any suggestions? Thanks!
Love the tips, and you did a great job on the spacing. Good choices, speaking as an interior designer. It makes sense why you did what you did. I enjoy board and batten style. Very simple but clean look.
I think in a bedroom, which that room looked like it might have been (?), this is a very smart approach. However, in a living room or dining room, unless you go with a darker stain grade (or paint), you’re going to see the slight reveal of the styles butting into the rails. That being said you couldn’t be more right; having to add complex joinery to flush the styles and rails adds an unbelievable amount of time. Good video
been poking around your YT vids for a week now-awesome tutorials and some really, really sweet looking trimwork. I did our master,-the bed wall in wainscot, the walls with a 3/4 height two piece trim, and a simple pediment above the 3 piece patio door. Never realized I used the "value engineered" method! LOL great stuff, man.
As not all houses are straight and square. You also talked about remodels and how some walls are wavy. When you layout the room, do you go for parallel to ceiling and windows for appearance of straight, or do you make sure it's level using your Level?
Question on how to offset material thickness: Original casing around doors was 1" , top rails were 3/4 inch and uprights were 5/8" what was the thickness on the 1 by 6 at bottom 1"? No offset at bottom?
Hello Spence, I understand keeping the stiles a tad thinner than the rails so that chaulking will cover the differnce in thicknesses, but how about if one uses stained oak trim and chooses a thinner stile. How can I assure it joint wont separate? I may be good at measuring twice and cutting once, and making sure things are level and true but I feel I'm gonna experience some temperature or moisture movement in my project. I want to do wainscoting just below the steps of my oak staircase, and we walk by that hallway 90 times a day and I would hate to see separation in joinery. Plus, we experience temperature changes in the house since we heat 100% with a wood burning stove. So sometimes the indoor air is 74 degrees, and might drop to 64 degrees by morning here in Michigan.
Hi How do you line up the horizontal boards on the corners. Do you set one board flush against the other or do you leave that corner gap like you did for the vertical corner? Thank you
Definitely offset or use joinery. MDF expands and contracts a ton. It will look absolutely terrible if you install flush with no joinery as it expands and contracts and opens and closes.
I really like the video! Would you care to show your scribing technique in the corners? Or in another video? Im curious what you are using to scribe and how you determine which board to scribe.
Do you have a picture of the final product painted? Did you use white paint in satin or semi gloss finish? Was your drywall smooth skim coated as well?
What do you think about using a planar for shaving down to your scribe line? I've tried a several methods. Giving the planar a try. I went with the Bosch 12v planar. I'm hoping it's less stressful, maybe even efficient. I'm considering the Thingamagig scribing tool, looks easy and precise. Keep on being heroic!
I'm a kiwi,I love seeing American carpentry,you have alot of great timber, concepts and handy gadgets and the professionalism is just super, well done sensei🤙
As someone who is looking to panel a very old UK house, your video has given me some superb tips on how to set out the panelling. What a great idea to vary the thicknesses of the timber. Thank you
The idea to use offset material thickness is outstanding.
So obvious but genius
🎯💯
I always use this method when I do door casing and baseboards. But not for the smart reason he does. I just think it looks better haha
Hi - I know this was posted a while ago but wanted you to know I just completed this in my guest bedroom and it turned out amazing. The tip of choosing a wider board for the top was particularly helpful and made the installation go so much faster, plus reveals are so pleasing to the eye. I have watched loads of “board and batten” videos and yours was the most helpful. Just wanted to made sure I thanked you.
Glad to hear it turned out well for you and thanks!
Your spacing compromises logic is spot on.
Awesome and super practical way to add wainscoting to any project! The layout explanation was great as well, we aren't just carpenters but also designers and learning how to break up a room and trick the eye is an important skill!
This is great stuff! One of the things I struggle with is figuring out appealing details for clients, so this idea of offsetting material thickness, creating an appealing look AND making less labor for yourself, is awesome!
Excellent work. You have oldschool knowledge and technique that is dying out. Getting harder to find quality contractors who do this level of work at an affordable price. Good stuff!
The people that give 👎to your videos are just pure haters! You do amazing work and your videos are so indepth with great explanations not only for the average DIY'er but for other professional carpenters. Keep up the amazing work and I look forward to watching more videos!
Facts. Well said.
Outstanding, love this approach. Your tips and tricks help so much. I tend to follow Brent Hull, Hull Historical, historical architecture guidelines for wainscot height, gives the best look. 28”-30” for 8’-9’ ceilings and 30”-32” for 10’-12’ ceilings.
Has a painting contractor the offsetting of the material is brilliant couple of months ago I did a brand new house with a good amount of wainscoting flush mounted to each other no biscuit joinery or dowels like you mentioned. Within a month I was back putting Bondo on the seams
This video answered a bunch of questions I had on how I should do this in one of my bedroom walls. Thanks a lot!
I’m so glad I watched this video first before I started my board and batten! Awesome ideas! AMAZING!!
Great job and the fact is that room is the boss and that room tells us what to cut and where to cut it. The layout is decided by the room not us carpenters or the customer.
disregard the previous questions. If I had listened to the entire video before asking the questions, I would have my answers. great video.
Your videos in almost every case relate to some aspect of “value engineering”. Value engineering is fancy / technical term. A process that minimizes labor, material, scrap etc. without compromising end function. My exposure was in aerospace parts manufacturing. Would be interested to hear your introduction to this process. Self taught? Mentored? Education? -- I too wainscot my dining room using current sheetrock wall, glue and power nailer. Spot on regarding joints cracking. I fancied up the top rail perimeter with small crown molded / top self for wife’s collector plates. As you mention outlets create major layout issues. Keep up your great videos.
I’d say I learned value engineering because it’s an essential concept to understand to be successful trimming new homes. Everyone wants to get the most out of their dollar.
I’m starting wainscoting at home. Had planned to build sections of same thickness stiles and rails joining with pocket holes.
I think this method, when cut correctly, will be better for working alone. Thank you very much.
I too am in the middle of a home wainscoting project. My guide for this has been @Finish Carpentry TV so I have backer boards to cover the wallboard texture, and pocket holed all my connections. I am glad I did as my walls are not at all flat. For this dude's method your walls better be very flat. I wish you good luck.
@@rebadaddy Right, thank you. I love Finish Carpentry TV. My walls suck. I do plan on installing MDF on walls first, capping top rail to conceal. I’m moving outlets, also cutting wall to correct hallway outlet controlled by switch in a totally separate room, WTF?? Found too many WTFs rebuilding this place. May still use FCTV method, love pocket holes, if I get help. TY
Really fantastic job on explaining layout challenges and solutions. The room looks excellent. Paint and furniture will hide anything you don’t like personally yet highlight the beautiful job you’ve done. Thanks for the nailing info as well.
Thanks for all the detailed info you provided. The 2 different thicknesses of the wood is genius. Very helpful.
I gotta say, you are the best. I always get something out of your videos. I have to work alone, as you, so I learn from you how to do it. In this video, I have to do my wainscotting as cheaply as possible. I studied this video a year ago, and I did it againg just now.
Glad it added some value Russ!
Your process is amazing Spencer!
Making simple decisions on different thickness's of materials ,knowing where they will move and keeping it hidden.
Then execution is fantastic 👏.
We use PPG paintable caulk on all sides of painted cabinets ,before they hit the paintbooth.
This keeps the black crack,away from any movement that may happen
I hear you about the layout having multiple issues to solve and the getting a somewhat even appearance. You got it right. I was told to split the windows in half - run the stile under middle of window - but your approach looks better. The windows also add complexity to layout. About heights. Your doors appear 6’-8” (stock) and windows are same height as doors with maybe a 9’ wall. You’re about 6’ tall (72”) give or take a few. You did top rail slightly above mid door (and mid window) - just below your own height. It divides the wall into halves with smaller half being above top rail. That looks right. I added ship lap in my own bedroom. I had to play with the height (I’m 74” tall) with 9’ ceiling. I kept the top rail slightly below 74” and it looks correct - balanced. To me that’s another issue that’s hard to determine but using the visual you presented here, works well for 9’ ceilings. Crown will also tighten up (lessen) the upper wall distance rather nicely. Thanks for the tips!
I wainscotted our front room recently!
Now in process of wainscoting our chimney breast in bedroom. Sort of like a feature wall!
Adding adding interior shelves to inside of chimney alcoves. Looking sweet.
Just done filling and sanding today, first coat of paint tomorrow.
By far my favorite UA-cam carpenter
Viewing this again want to offer it in the options and it is a perfect solution to ppl on a budget giving me a good profit margin still
Thk u Spencer!
The biggest tip is the multi-thickness of the trim!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
The biggest thing is always use appropriate size nails especially on older homes because you are not shooting into studs and there are wires , plumbing, gas lines ,etc and you can nail a plumbing pipe and you will never know until the nail rust through and if its under pressure you will have major damage if not caught in time! I know l made that mistake!!! Remember the glue is what holds everything in place not the nails!! Good luck and awesome video!!!
Thank you for talking through your problem solving on how you broke things up around the windows, doors, and outlets
I just wish I could find someone in my area with your skills - I have fault over and over again, getting my trim crews to understand the benefit of different sized mating materials. Nice vid.
well thought out and some great finish carpentry tips, you are very easy to follow in the video.
I love the use of that scrap wood for _engineered wood_ !
Thanks Spencer. Really like all the thinking you do to make the project all it can be. Great video.
So the door / window casing is 1 1/4”, the rails are 3/4”, and the stiles are 5/8”. I do love the chunky casing around doors & windows! Looks great, per usual.
Nice work as usual. I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks. Keep up the Great work and Great videos.
Spencer I recently did two of these? Where were you? No I am throwing down a price 4 a M/B remodel! This will help give the customer a great look & product as opposed to glue on bead board! Thank you Spencer great teaching video! By the way I am Kings Table Custom Finish Carpentry! U know the crazy grandsons!👊
😂 It’s so hard to connect the dots between usernames fromIG to UA-cam. 👊
I have seen so many videos on wainscoting for this type of construction. You are very good at your craft and explain small details that do matter. I am thinking of doing my bedroom and I want to do it right! I do have lightly texture walls, any suggestions concerning using board and batter techniques?
I know when I see you that you are showing the right way to do things
Helpful video, thank you i like the tip about different thickness of timber so you dont need pocket screws
As a siding guy who does b/b with engineered wood or Hardie I can agree on the layout aspect with symmetry.
Very good video Spencer! I really like your narriative explaining your thought process. The room turned out great, would like to see the room painted.
Looks great…. Yep always have fudge factor panel sizing around all kind of issues.
Really like that solution for the weird corner/window asymmetry
Fantastic advice on the different thicknesses of the top rail and stiles! How DIY videos I found online don't mention this.
Clever approach to maintaining an appearance of symmetry around the windows and the corner. Thanks for the video!
Looks great. I don't like using any caulk or wood putty to hide the gaps like it tight joint.
Takes a challenge like you said to set up the OC stiles. But you've done a great job.
Out standing. You answered my questions.
I want to do some wainscoting in my house. It's a 25-year-old trailer, so I don't want to put a bunch on money into it, but there is wallpaper in the dining room that is damaged along the bottom on one wall. This gave me some great ideas on how to tackle this on a budget.
I learn something new every day!
How are you calculating your spacing to come out equally on all 4 walls especially when each wall may have a unique issue such as a window or a door. Your work is GREAT! I am considering doing my small guest room 11 x 12 but am having a difficult time with the calculations and having equal spacing and still going around doors and windows in the room - any suggestions? Thanks!
Hey Spencer. I’d love to see a video of you doing a walk through in pricing a job and your process through doing that! Thanks for the vids!
Love the tips, and you did a great job on the spacing. Good choices, speaking as an interior designer. It makes sense why you did what you did. I enjoy board and batten style. Very simple but clean look.
What size is the nails in inches ?I'm a Diy.. Great work
Thank you very much for going into detail. It’ll help me tremendously.
I think in a bedroom, which that room looked like it might have been (?), this is a very smart approach. However, in a living room or dining room, unless you go with a darker stain grade (or paint), you’re going to see the slight reveal of the styles butting into the rails. That being said you couldn’t be more right; having to add complex joinery to flush the styles and rails adds an unbelievable amount of time. Good video
Thanks. I’ve found that after doing this style for a handful of years, no one has ever disliked the reveal.
@@InsiderCarpentry Gotya, good to know
You’re the best, I liking to much, your detail , step by step
I was not critiquing the layout. But I was curious how you came up with it. Really solid what you came up with, considering what you had to work with.
Great video - not clear the size of the rails? I know they are 3/4" thick. Base perimeter is 1"x6". Stiles are 5/8" thick and measure 3 1/4" wide.
Cool approach for a economy install
You rock, material thickness tip is gold!
That's great. I usually prime and paint for paintable finish
been poking around your YT vids for a week now-awesome tutorials and some really, really sweet looking trimwork. I did our master,-the bed wall in wainscot, the walls with a 3/4 height two piece trim, and a simple pediment above the 3 piece patio door. Never realized I used the "value engineered" method! LOL great stuff, man.
A final look of how it turned out would be great!
I HATE when we're not shown the end result.
That method seams good for a very basic install. Gets it done, looks good.
Definitely always good to have different methods to do things, also depends on how much the customer is willing to spend on the job.
Our secret was to paint the panels and wainscot high gloss and paint the wall above it in low sheen. It makes the panels looks like timber panels.
Making the best of the layout buddy. Thanks for the tips as always
Where can we buy/find Value Engineered Wainscoting?
appreciate the layout explanation..I was wondering how those short legs ended up being so symmetrical under the window. Great work.
Great job!! Love the different thicknesses
As not all houses are straight and square. You also talked about remodels and how some walls are wavy. When you layout the room, do you go for parallel to ceiling and windows for appearance of straight, or do you make sure it's level using your Level?
Great job and your tips are greatly appreciated for us do-it-your-selfer’s!
Question on how to offset material thickness: Original casing around doors was 1" , top rails were 3/4 inch and uprights were 5/8" what was the thickness on the 1 by 6 at bottom 1"? No offset at bottom?
Very well planned, thanks for the education.
Backbanding the casing is an option, do you add a cap and cove molding to this f/e install?
Nice to see your techniques/get your thoughts.
Hello Spence, I understand keeping the stiles a tad thinner than the rails so that chaulking will cover the differnce in thicknesses, but how about if one uses stained oak trim and chooses a thinner stile. How can I assure it joint wont separate? I may be good at measuring twice and cutting once, and making sure things are level and true but I feel I'm gonna experience some temperature or moisture movement in my project. I want to do wainscoting just below the steps of my oak staircase, and we walk by that hallway 90 times a day and I would hate to see separation in joinery. Plus, we experience temperature changes in the house since we heat 100% with a wood burning stove. So sometimes the indoor air is 74 degrees, and might drop to 64 degrees by morning here in Michigan.
Thanks, enjoy all your videos, thanks for explaining your spacing, it looks great.
Thank you for sharing and fully explaining your approach.
Hi Spencer, do you have a link or spec for the boards used in this wainscott job?
Looks amazing love the size anything lower is outdated
My husband and I can NOT find any suitable wood to use for this project! Can you help us out as to where you found your wood in those dimensions?
Do you have a video on that outfeed set up?
I been thinking to do one wall. Thanks , now I have an ideal. The wall is very tall. So what length. Is better.? That's the ideal I wanted to do.!
I’m having trouble wrapping my head around the relief cuts. How does the adhesive secure itself to the wall if it’s placed within the groove?
Great video. Good to see how another carpenter does it.
Hi
How do you line up the horizontal boards on the corners. Do you set one board flush against the other or do you leave that corner gap like you did for the vertical corner?
Thank you
Would love to see a finished look on this.
How bout with the super DIYer method of using MDF, how important is offsetting thickness and would joinery still be recommended?
Definitely offset or use joinery. MDF expands and contracts a ton. It will look absolutely terrible if you install flush with no joinery as it expands and contracts and opens and closes.
Another great video. Thanks for explaining everything in great details.
Great job!
Very helpful tips!
Once again great Job! Very detailed and great job explaining your process.
I really like the video! Would you care to show your scribing technique in the corners? Or in another video? Im curious what you are using to scribe and how you determine which board to scribe.
I use an easy scribe jig. But anything works.
Do you have a picture of the final product painted? Did you use white paint in satin or semi gloss finish? Was your drywall smooth skim coated as well?
Like the relaxing tunes. What's the track?
I love this! I have knock down texture walls. Would it look bad to keep that texture with this style? Have you ever seen it done that way?
What would you suggest for a top cap on this installation ? Thanks
having watched much of Finish Carpentry TV, i had often wondered how you did yours...
I greatly appreciate both channels and methods. Thank both of you.
Music game on point...good vibes on this video
It's an amazing job. I learned a lot. Thank you so much.
What do you think about using a planar for shaving down to your scribe line? I've tried a several methods. Giving the planar a try. I went with the Bosch 12v planar. I'm hoping it's less stressful, maybe even efficient. I'm considering the Thingamagig scribing tool, looks easy and precise. Keep on being heroic!
I have used a planer many times but it’s not my preferred method. I like table saw, or for large stuff a circ saw and finish with a block plane.
Hey, is there a program or app that will measure spacing and design?