PERFECT BEAM INSTALLS | Best Tricks for FAST PERFECTION
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2024
- In this video we take a deep dive into installing stain grade beams on a tray ceiling. We cover the entire install process from blocking, scribing end cuts, cutting to perfect length, scribing to ceiling, gluing, achieving seamless miters, and more...
Senco 23 GA Pin Nailer - amzn.to/49ovyq2 (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Festool HKC 55 Track Saw - amzn.to/4aJDrY2 (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Klein 9 Inch Torpedo Level - amzn.to/3TIwccd (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Welding Gauge Taper Gauge - amzn.to/3vFAp8o (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Stepped Pipe Gauge 3/4" Width x 4" - amzn.to/3PPt792 (Worth Every Penny!) (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Razor Scribe - amzn.to/43JBsAR (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Razor Scribe Ink - amzn.to/3PMmSCX (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Trend EasyScribe - amzn.to/49rt8ae (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Hock Marking Knife 3/4" - www.highlandwoodworking.com/h...
Fast Cap Glue Bot - amzn.to/4aHv1AB (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
00:00 - Intro - Mitered Box Beam Deep Dive
00:53 - The Process - Start with the End in Mind
02:39 - Why not pre-fabricate the beams?
04:03 - Beam Blocking - Make It Crisp & Easy
11:24 - Beam Side Pieces
15:44 - Measuring & Cutting Side Pieces To Fit
21:59 - Tacking Up Side Beams
26:31 - What Scribing Tool to Use???
30:32 - Best method for cutting to a scribe line???
37:42 - Sanding IS IMPORTANT
38:54 - Install the Side Beams
41:09 - Gluing the miters - Tips & Tricks
45:36 - Assembling Perfect Miters
53:06 - Thoughts on Pin Nailers
56:14 - Finished Product Overview
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THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!!! (Tool Affiliate links below...)
Senco 23 GA Pin Nailer - amzn.to/49ovyq2 (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Festool HKC 55 Track Saw - amzn.to/4aJDrY2 (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Klein 9 Inch Torpedo Level - amzn.to/3TIwccd (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Welding Gauge Taper Gauge - amzn.to/3vFAp8o (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Stepped Pipe Gauge 3/4" Width x 4" - amzn.to/3PPt792 (Worth Every Penny!) (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Razor Scribe - amzn.to/43JBsAR (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Razor Scribe Ink - amzn.to/3PMmSCX (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Trend EasyScribe - amzn.to/49rt8ae (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
Hock Marking Knife 3/4" - www.highlandwoodworking.com/hockunhandledmarkingknife34x7.aspx
Fast Cap Glue Bot - amzn.to/4aHv1AB (Amazon - Earns Commissions)
What laser tape are you using thanks a bunch
@@TekcorFPV Dittos
Looks like a Leica to me.
@@ClaNan TY
Spencer is a true finish carpenter doing real work, no gimmicks.
Why this guy doesn't have a million plus subscribers is beyond me.
You have the rare combination of being highly skilled and a great teacher.
Amen to that
I can’t tell you how much I’ve learned watching your videos. You’re a great carpenter and teach very well. Thank you
These techniques take years to learn and Spence makes it look muck easier than it is ( he’s not joking about glue application being an art ), I would add if it is not to difficult measure all lengths and start with longest beams, if you make a fitting mistake move that to a shorter measurement, this also works with stair builds.
These videos are the absolute best for techniques on UA-cam, I have been a trim carpenter for over 40 years working solo and use the same techniques, I use Cadex nailers in 21 and 23 for almost everything, they shoot up to 2 3/16” Brad heads.
You the man
This validates everything this 69 year old carpenter reaches his sons and grandsons. It amazes me that they will see my instruction as an old man being bossy but after watching your videos realize I wasn't just talking because I like the sound of my own voice. You do a great service to the next generation of fine trim carpenters coming up. Been using Senco since 1978. Great tools.
Hopefully you’re not retired? I am 65 and enjoy it more than I did when I was younger ? Maybe it’s being more secure I don’t know ? But retirement is for sissy’s !
As a Quebecer (Canada), english is not my first spoken language. But you explain so clearly that your videos are easy to understand. You’re really doing a great job, Spencer!
Being an electrician for 25 years I could not stop looking at the placement of the cans! Lol
"Start with the end in mind!" I love it. I always look at anything I start, with the end in mind. That even includes parking somewhere. I park strategically, not so that I am close to the entrance, rather that I have the clearest access for a speedy exit. It annoys companions on the way in, but they are always thankful on the way out.
This (in my opinion) is at the very top of the list for best video ever. Man Spencer, excellent. Thank you, as I really needed this video and in the detail in which you executed it. You are much appreciated.
Amazing work as always Spencer! Thanks for slowing yourself down to help out us folk out here that are trying to get better.
Working solo on multiple beams like these long before the advent of LDMs, my method was to make up what amounts to a full length version of a stair gauge. This process yielded very precise and reliable results. The gauge simply consisted of a sacrificial length of blocking stock cut a few inches shorter than the finished beam length required along with two cut-offs, each about a foot long. To create each individual template, my process was to screw the long piece to the ceiling blocking in three spots, starting with one at the middle (to hold it up initially) and then one close to each end. Next, with the long piece fixed securely, I would butt the end of each short piece tight to a wall and screw it to the long one, establishing both the finished length and crosscut angles at once. Cutting the ends of the short pieces to the theoretical rake angle on cathedral ceilings allowed this method to work on those too. (Of course, this method would be impractical if you are unable to do the cutting in the same room as the installaton.)
This is classic "how to" content that you are making Spencer.
Spencer:
One of your best videos. Wonderful camera work and audio. You are the best. Thank you.
Impressive video and I really appreciate your post-production efforts to dampen the tool sound. Really appreciate that.
Your work is fantastic. Been watching for a long time. Love what you accomplish by yourself and how methodical and meticulous you are. Great video
You are very talented in so many ways. Keep up the good work!
The most amazing thing is that he did everything himself
QUESTION: you fit the side pieces perfectly, end to end. But then you scribed them to the ceiling, so when you move them up to the ceiling, wouldn’t that throw off the end to end measurement ?
Good job young man.
I love the smell of white oak.
Imagine the old days of using a hammer and nail and set?
I used my block plane a lot when I was in my younger years. And still do today on small stuff.
Thanks a lot for your work.
As an electrian, I'm bummed out because the cans are in the wong places, but your job is top notch.
You always have great advice, and you make it look so easy. When we all know it's not.
Fantastic. Thank you!
Thx for sharing, amazing content!
Beautiful!💯
great job with great tips thanks
As always, absolutely perfection!
Awesome advice/tips Spencer...thank you!
Awesome job. Great detail. Thanks for sharing
Terrific tutorial, thank you!!!
Another great video💯👏👏👏👏👏
Great video!
So well done. Thanks for the amazing info.
Nicely done. Great presentation.
watched your video this morning and had a beam job to do today I normally 45 them this time I did your tip and used 46 degree and what a difference that made .thanks for the tip, please keep them coming
Great work
I picked up some tape and a dispenser from your links, thanks for the videos!
Great video
Very well done
I always learn a lot from your videos. Great job.
Excellent work Spencer, you’re a beast bro !!!🙏🏽😊
Really appreciate this video. The new point of view works well also.
ALWAYS a great day when a Spencer Lewis video is posted 👍💯
The HKC with all the tracks paid for itself the first day I bought it
3 sets of white oak treads and risers
Another absolutely GREAT video with excellent content.
THANK YOU, Spencer!
I'm beaming with all that info. Can't wait to tackle my next beam install. Thanks, you're going to make me look like a genius.
Thanks for doing these!! Amazing to have such a wealth of knowledge explained so well
This is a super helpful tutorial about how to execute this at a high level. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
The end result is always fantastic. I would love to see the beams after stain and painting has been applied.
For touching up scribes, my go-to is the now discontinued Porter Cable 371 corded belt sander. I wish someone would develop a cordless version, maybe even smaller. Same benefits as a block plane but without the possibility of catching and tear-out if the grain changes direction.
I have two of those which I'm carefully husbanding. Don't know what I'll do if/when they wear out or belts become unavailable. Best belt sander I ever had.
Awesome work, as always. Awesome vedeo, as always. Thanks, Spencer..
Too bad the pot lights are in the wrong locations. Hopefully, the taper is as skilled as the trim carpenter.
*Welcome BACK*
Just finished installing 6x8 Doug Fir solid beams in a cathedral ceiling. 12' legs with king post and tie. 3 lifts up and I don't love heights. Unfun in the moment, but pleased with the result.
Thanks for the tips you’re helping me a lot in my career
Glad to hear it
Love the work..and thanks for taking the time. Almost each video you give me a new perspective. On the scaffold safety..I hear you..and in someone's home..I'd get away with it. However, on a house build.. nope..that would get me a $600 fine. Above 8ft not only do I need full floor coverage. I need Fall arrest.
Hey,another fantastic video. One comment on the cordless nailers, I believe the cylinder can be “re-charged”. Well, I know the Metabo HPT ones can because I own them. But I still would not use them on white oak, air for the win, as you said.
Good night. What a great video! Honestly my attention was immediately drawn to your scribing with a table saw. I would love to see an in-depth video on doing that. It seemed to me that not using the fence would get people going crazy.
100 percent agree (both wanting to learn more about the technique, and that I thought people would freak over not using the fence)
I can't remember where I heard this, but when scribing oak, it's better to use a pencil that is not super sharp. The reason being is that the density of oak makes it harder for the pencil to penetrate the wood and leave a mark that you can see and you won't keep snapping the lead. Once again, your attention to detail is top notch. I would never have thought to check the ends for plumb and cut the ends accordingly.
Masters tournament next week Spencer. Time to dust off the clubs. Great vid as always.
And it's my birthday weekend so I'm looking forward to relaxing and watching it on Sunday.
Nice. Was hoping youd go over how to dial in the miter cuts
Great tutorial. On the white oak do the painters fill the nail/screw holes and what do they use?
You answered the question 👍
Whats your opinion on drilling with a 3/8 inch forstner bit into oak treads and risers? Then install Black Walnut plugs for an accent?
You truly earn every dollar they are paying you on this beam work! Great work Spencer! One quick comment/question: How about using a wet rag to clean off the excess glue squeeze out?
It affects the stain after. Everything would need to be sanded really well again if you use water and smear glue.
Excellent work and thank you for showing us your ways... A+
How do you address the holes near the top of the beam? Are they 16 gauge and is the painter filling those?
Yes, Painter fills holes.
Hi Spencer Lewis, nice video and awesome work flow. The only thing is what's happening with the screw and heavy gage nail holes at the top of the beam?
As a cabinet maker and installer, I don't think your finisher is very happy about them. Thanks
They fill just fine. You have to fasten the beams with something.
You just made that look very easy. That’s quite a bit of work even on each beam. Very well done though. I really wish UA-cam would have been around 40 years ago and you were 40 years older. I’m sure you don’t agree. Understandable. 👍. I hope UA-cam and Amazon pay you enough to take the time to teach and profit from it. 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you very much!
Great tutorial. did you use 15 or 16a guage finish nails to tack the side of the beams to the blocking? Also, is there a beam length where you feel you might need a bit of blocking in the center of the beam instead of just on the ends?
It’s kind of a feel thing. It most cases a top cleat will support the e tire beam just fine. Center blocking is more about keeping the beam sides vertical and square.
Another master class from IC!
What did you do with the blow out at 49:50?
Try and back and forth to break off using a chisel. Then set with a nail set if you have to. Wood filler after that.
What is your secret for getting the 46 degree bevel on both sides of your bottom piece? I have had a tough time keeping that 2nd side straight on my table saw. First side is easy because you have a square edge, but with knotty alder, I have struggled with ripping that 2nd edge. Thanks for all you do!
White oak is about $4.50 canadian a foot board in Ottawa. It’s not very expensive. You can also find deals on craigslist for cheaper. For comparison 1x12 primed finger jointed pine cost me $4.93 a foot (to be fair it requires no planing and sanding. Oak does).
Hey Spencer superb concentration of useful information once again. What blade do you use for crosscuts on the HKC 55 just out of curiosity? I've been using a mix of festool and CMT blades on both my track saws but I think the CMT blades have a bit more throw and end up overcutting my splinter guard a bit
Also I don't know if you have already tried it but milwaukee's surge hydraulic impact is a real delight especially for cinchin down screws overhead. A lot less violent than the regular impact and I've sunk six inch GRK lags with it no sweat.
Ooooh, who’s all in a twist about the definition of a beam? What else would you call them?
Great job as always Spencer, when you attaching the pieces I saw two different guns, one looked like a framing nailer and the other a pin nailer (23 gauge) Can you clarify what you used? I would have thought a 16 gauge for the sides and a 16 or 18 for the bottom.
Again awesome video!!
23 for the miter. Framing for blocking. 15 for nailing beam sides to blocking.
What are you using to fill the screw holes that was used for your first fit. Being stain grade. Looks fantastic.
It leaves about the same size hole as a 15 ga nail. Painter will fill it with the same wood filler to match the stain.
It seems like this would have been a good application for lock miter joints. What are the pros and cons for that joint here?
Great job. A ittle suprised you didnt mark ends and rights and lefts before you took them down to cut your scribes.
I'm sure he did.
What is the brand of the fabric flooring protection in your Scribing Baseboard video? Thank you, sir.
Thk u for a great video ! On those rubber mallet ? I found I need to change them out like every year or so? The rubber end becomes as hard as my hammer thus denting my finish ? Maybe it’s mt climate ?
That's interesting, I find the rubber gets softer with time.
@@InsiderCarpentry it’s gotta be climate !
Fuking awesome. What blades did u buy for your track saw??
Hello! I really enjoy your videos...I have a question on frameless windows. Is it best to frame the inside with sheet rock, wood, or tiles? If sheet rock is used for the framed inside, does it need to be treated sheet rock? Thanks very much
5/4 extension jambs before drywall. Prime/seal wood. Rip width of extension to flush out with back side of drywall. Run drywall over extension and corner bead onto extension. Bonding agent in setting type compound. If your drywall finisher is not using catalytic compound on all bead for the first coat, tell them to start. Float mud onto extension jamb. Fast and perfect. No shimming and plenty of space for insulation. No problems with thermal transfer, condensation and deterioration of gypsum. Fast, perfect and best results. Keep drywall off returns. It’s not designed to absorb moisture from condensation. Your bead will hold up much better if it is independent of the framing. Works very well with any window you can fasten extension jambs into and this trimless design is typically used with casement windows. My personal favorite when using this system is a stool and apron because a window looks unfinished otherwise. IMO.
Use screws and drill pilots for extensions.
Can you recommend a digital tape measure ? I don't see one in your product links.
An actual masterclass on box beam installation. I had a few questions that came up in your process: is it efficient; can you elaborate; etc. All I needed to do to find out was keep watching as you went back an answered all of them.
For instance, how did you verify you're blocking, because with my experience those stud finders are never accurate. You came back with a nail to check. I usually skip the stud finder and use magnets to find screws already fastened to it (typically in a few spots on a stud for example to be sure), and if in doubt I use a nail as you have done.
I had a question about what you meant by metering starting further down. The footage was too far and you didn't explain it well first. I was left confused thinking you meant from the bottom as the actual bottom, and not from the bottom of the side of the miter. When you went back to show and point out the miter, then I realized the first 1/8 or so of the face is not mitered, so the cut actually stared on the side instead of the face.
I was also worried about the sharp edges, which is pet peeve I have from all the times I've scraped or even cut myself because of them. You went on to ease the edges. Job well done.
As for the gluing, I'm not biased towards the finger or a brush, either will do, its more the execution, which you are correct is an art applying it. I see other with either too much or not enough, though the amount needed varies on the project. In this case, good glue coverage on both mating pieces, on each side.
I would want to make sure the beam isn't going anywhere, so glue and nails. And oak is heavy, so if it did fall, those eased edges will make it a bit less painful, even just at a micro level. Sometimes it comes down to fractions between a hit or a miss, like hitting a puck with only a fraction either direction leads to a score or not.
Using glue and nails was a great call imo because it is more efficient, and more economical. You're running a business, so you need to be as productive as possible. Using tape is not only a waste, but glue alone in this case isn't structural enough for more: I tend to over-engineer. Not to mention, the need to come back, but also because oak splinters easily, you need to be careful peeling the two so as not to take any grains with you.
However, this is one other thing because applying glue I'm nether for nor against. The beams could be rustic as far as I'm concerned. Both natural and finished can look good, and some people rather not even stain wood at all. For me, it all depends on what the client is looking for: it's aesthetics and either can be fine.
This is perhaps the best "class" video I've seen on your channel.
Thanks for the insight and keep up the good work!
I didnt see a link for the laser tape measure in the description. Am I missing it?
Guess I should have watched to the very end……pin nailer 🙂 got it.
Spencer, you are an excellent communicator and it's much apreciated. I do not necessarily come for the information as much as I do the quality of your presentation. Nonetheless, I usually end up learning something worthwhile. I am known to joke with other carpenters by stating that some of the better ones remind me of a "watered down" version of myself. I would, however, make the claim that you are on par with me, lol. Thanks again, as always. PS: Do you remove the safety on your Senco 23 gauge pin nailer?
No, I don't remove it. I manage to shoot myself already WITH the safety. No safety would likely cost me an eye eventually. LOL
I subcontracted trim work in the Lansing area for a few years. Back then everything was stain-grade red oak. The woodworking traits are similar.
a wet rag is essential to glue removal.....
Forgive me but what laser measurement device do you use
Hey Spencer. Where did you get the milled lumber at such long lengths? I’m trying to create x2 box beans across the bottom of cathedral ceiling (only fixed at 2 points) at 12.8 feet length and 10” wide. Im having a tough time finding solid milled lumber. I love it in Walnut but I’d take what I can get that won’t sag over such a long run.
This is actually a new product. It is jointed material with a 3/16 veneer that is bookmatched on the face. White oak is hard to find long and wide. This allows for longer boards to be glued up made into wider boards.
The pin nail holes may not be visable, but what about the larger screw holes. Are they visable from the floor?
Cabinet head GRK screws have a very narrow shaft. They leave about the same size hole as a 15 gauge nail. Easy to fill and make disappear.
How do you like that Milwaukee framing gun??
It's insanely heavy, but for what I do I like it.
@insidercarlentry What laser tape are you using? I don't see it in your description.
What is the laser device you use for measurements, i dont seem to see a link in the description.
You were getting your angle by plumbing from the corner bead which was 1/8” proud of where the beam was gonna be.
When you mentioned this in a previous video I thought you said you were going to cut the drywall pocket? I can see how the corner bead would prohibit that.
I did that on the previous job. Similar flat beam install but it had more space. The beams were distressed so they had to be preassembled. It worked great for that job.
The best on the internet
@@InsiderCarpentry Watching so many videos they are running together in my head. Now I remember that job. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
49:50 your side nail caught the grain and raised up the wood on the bottom piece. How do you fix that with a pin nail and stain grade?
Try and back and forth to break off using a chisel. Then set with a nail set if you have to. Wood filler after that.
Picasso with glue!
wow, those recessed light locations really bother me. Nice work on the beams!
You are using a goldblatt level but you link is for Klein??
The goldblatt is currently listed as unavailable unfortunately.
What decide the thickness size of the scribe block used?
Basically you are guessing on how much you think the maximum you would need to take off to make everything scribe tight, but not much more. Another way to describe it it he difference between the high point and low point of the ceiling, that is how much you scribe thickness needs to be. But you want to go with a little bit more than that just in case.