Even though you said its not supposition be instructional, this was sooo informative! Love the wording of your thought and work process in it! I wanna do this too for my local area one day! 😁
@@EvanWisheropp damn no way!! 🤩 Even though I live half way across the globe I’d love to take you up on that someday! Probably never gonna be near but I will remember this for my local people :)
Try using index cards for detailing the glue. You can use them to "slice" the glue away, remove it as it flows out, move it around, and clean the bolt gently so it doesn't move much. Spit on the paper so that the glue doesn't stick to it much. As for the nozzle, wrap the tip in electrical tape to make it wider and be just shy of the hole diameter. It will provide much better feedback as it forces the nozzle out.
Nice vid Evan! I was going to ask a couple details but took the time to read comments and there were properly answered. Keep going man, excellent work!
Great vid, dude! I've snapped a bolt like that while rebolting before as well. I think they are still relatively strong, and I think they would still hold lead falls, but when we torque them like that they snap pretty easily. It might be cool to mention the different type of strain that a wrench introduces.
Cool video. I don’t think people have any idea how much work goes into re-bolting routes, not to mention the cost. You’ve come a long way since the old Granite Arch days ;-)
Thank you, very kind of you. It is the Petzl Partner Pulley. I just saw they have another one now thats even smaller. I'm intrigued to check that out eventually. I've also tested their Rollclip pulley carabiner a bunch, If they made the carabiner much smaller, I'd switch for sure.
@@EvanWisheropp Do you worry about the efficiency as you downsize or is that irrelevant? Besides, I can’t get smaller ‘biners on and off well at the higher clip in point. Also, have you tried the dmm revolver? Keep on keeping on
@evan where did you get those temporary expansion bolts you are using I’m a couple spots? I’ve never seen them before, only the Climbtech removables which I’m not sure they make anymore… would be super helpful!
I used to use those climb tech RBs, but I wore them in and beat them to death, but then they got hard to find and the price went way up. These RBs are a Chinese knockoff of the Petzl ones you found. These are about as strong, but not as long lasting.
@@MrHassancehef Ok, I'll be bolting two more routes in the coming weeks, so I'll make sure to make a detailed video. I'm learning how to film stuff, then try to present it in a useful but not boring way. This'll be good practice
I'm using the 14mm bolts for these hard projects. Using a mix of the 80mm and 110mm, depending on the placement. On the easier climbs with less hangdogging, I'm using the 12mm x 80mm. I'm not a fan of the 12mm x 110mm because the epoxy nozzle won't fit to the back of the hole without using the nozzle extender, which is such a pain..
@@user-xt4ip8un5m When I first started using the 12mm also, I thought they looked so small.. but now I'm not really feeling that anymore. Plus the pull tests are so strong that the 14mm honestly seems overkill. But they still make me feel warm and cozy
@@EvanWisheropp you read my mind, the granite am bolting is so solid, i'm looking at the drill bit going in and thinking this is way longer than necessary. Anyway using pure epoxy so they'll be there for a verrry long time
Ugh but that glue is properly invasive. I haven't come across such a massive soiling of the surrounding rock around the borhak yet. But later in the video we also see some camouflage. Does that mean that the red spot won't stay there?
Hi, so without camoflauging the epoxy, it will fade to a dull light pink in 4-5 years, sooner for the thinner epoxy on the edges. In the meantime, the camouflaging hides the red, and the bolts are very tough to spot from the ground.
You ever used sika -3? We use it in Tasmania over Hilti as its just as good, dries exactly the colour of your rock and easier to work as its more viscous.
No one cares, its a necessary safety precaution. I love trad climbing but losers like you who spit vitriol at the sport climbing community really piss me off.
I love the added pulley for jugging!!! Holy Crap! Never thought about that! Absolutely Great Idea!
Its game changer!!
I always used a carabiner at the higher clip in point but a pulley is way smoother
Support your local Bolters! Especially when they care this much about safety!
Bolters are cool guys. Thats a lot of effort to go to to create fun for other people. ❤
Even though you said its not supposition be instructional, this was sooo informative! Love the wording of your thought and work process in it! I wanna do this too for my local area one day! 😁
@@lovis_hertel Many developers are keen for a helping hand, and wouldn’t mind teaching. If you’re ever in NorCal, I’ll help you bolt a route
@@EvanWisheropp damn no way!! 🤩
Even though I live half way across the globe I’d love to take you up on that someday! Probably never gonna be near but I will remember this for my local people :)
Try using index cards for detailing the glue. You can use them to "slice" the glue away, remove it as it flows out, move it around, and clean the bolt gently so it doesn't move much. Spit on the paper so that the glue doesn't stick to it much. As for the nozzle, wrap the tip in electrical tape to make it wider and be just shy of the hole diameter. It will provide much better feedback as it forces the nozzle out.
Great video!! Lots of good info and cool insights into the bolting experience. Thanks for the work you do!
Couldn’t agree more! Can’t wait for the next video 😮
Really liked watching this video, throughly enjoyed every second of it!
Amazing video man, hope to be doing this one day, and getting a brief glimpse of the scope and problem solving that comes with it is such a treat.
Nice vid Evan! I was going to ask a couple details but took the time to read comments and there were properly answered.
Keep going man, excellent work!
Great video
Great vid, dude! I've snapped a bolt like that while rebolting before as well. I think they are still relatively strong, and I think they would still hold lead falls, but when we torque them like that they snap pretty easily.
It might be cool to mention the different type of strain that a wrench introduces.
This crag looks sweet, Evan!
you da man evan
Love to see the progress!
Thanks for the video, I'll also try your jugging method next time I'm bolting!
LOVE IT!
Great video! 😄
Cool video. I don’t think people have any idea how much work goes into re-bolting routes, not to mention the cost. You’ve come a long way since the old Granite Arch days ;-)
Hey!!! indeed it's been a while! I still love stopping by GA every time I'm in Sacramento
Hi, very nice vid. Any particular reason for using that kind of gringing wheel?
And don't forget to pack out what you pack into nature.
Really good setter, underrated channel.
What kind of micro pulley is that on the ascender? Thanks
Thank you, very kind of you. It is the Petzl Partner Pulley. I just saw they have another one now thats even smaller. I'm intrigued to check that out eventually. I've also tested their Rollclip pulley carabiner a bunch, If they made the carabiner much smaller, I'd switch for sure.
@@EvanWisheropp Do you worry about the efficiency as you downsize or is that irrelevant? Besides, I can’t get smaller ‘biners on and off well at the higher clip in point.
Also, have you tried the dmm revolver?
Keep on keeping on
@EvanWisheropp at first sight It looked like Petzl Mobile to me.
@evan where did you get those temporary expansion bolts you are using I’m a couple spots? I’ve never seen them before, only the Climbtech removables which I’m not sure they make anymore… would be super helpful!
Actually I think I found them, Petzl Couer? Thing is trick! Thanks for beta!
I used to use those climb tech RBs, but I wore them in and beat them to death, but then they got hard to find and the price went way up. These RBs are a Chinese knockoff of the Petzl ones you found. These are about as strong, but not as long lasting.
The RE500 goes a dark brown after a very sort period once its dried. Its always good to carry spare nozzles. If its not RE what brand is it?
How did you camouflage them at the end?
What wall is this? and what country?
Now i'm curious how do you paint it.
@@timycic I should do a full video on that, thanks for the suggestion. I’ve done some short Instagram videos, but not fully informative
@@EvanWisheropp very interest also!
@@MrHassancehef Ok, I'll be bolting two more routes in the coming weeks, so I'll make sure to make a detailed video. I'm learning how to film stuff, then try to present it in a useful but not boring way. This'll be good practice
Hey Evan what size glue ins are those from Martin in Titan Climbing?
I'm using the 14mm bolts for these hard projects. Using a mix of the 80mm and 110mm, depending on the placement. On the easier climbs with less hangdogging, I'm using the 12mm x 80mm. I'm not a fan of the 12mm x 110mm because the epoxy nozzle won't fit to the back of the hole without using the nozzle extender, which is such a pain..
Thought they looked like 14mm! Might try the 12mm am finding my drill batteries especially in granite are wearing out with the 14mm drill bit!
@@user-xt4ip8un5m When I first started using the 12mm also, I thought they looked so small.. but now I'm not really feeling that anymore. Plus the pull tests are so strong that the 14mm honestly seems overkill. But they still make me feel warm and cozy
@@EvanWisheropp you read my mind, the granite am bolting is so solid, i'm looking at the drill bit going in and thinking this is way longer than necessary. Anyway using pure epoxy so they'll be there for a verrry long time
Where is this route? Looks sick
It’s at a crag called promontory in Northern California, super sick spot if you ever get out there
I’ve got a dollop on the tip. #sarcasm
Ugh but that glue is properly invasive. I haven't come across such a massive soiling of the surrounding rock around the borhak yet. But later in the video we also see some camouflage. Does that mean that the red spot won't stay there?
Hi, so without camoflauging the epoxy, it will fade to a dull light pink in 4-5 years, sooner for the thinner epoxy on the edges. In the meantime, the camouflaging hides the red, and the bolts are very tough to spot from the ground.
@@EvanWisheroppthank you for the clarification (:
You ever used sika -3? We use it in Tasmania over Hilti as its just as good, dries exactly the colour of your rock and easier to work as its more viscous.
The only thing worse than glue is ... nothing
Great video, but man you need to be careful with al that epoxy all over your hands that stuff is toxic as ****
Man, I hate sports climbing
I find it disgusting.
I find high rises, freeways, and suburbia disgusting.
No one cares, its a necessary safety precaution. I love trad climbing but losers like you who spit vitriol at the sport climbing community really piss me off.
Really good setter, underrated channel.
What kind of micro pulley is that on the ascender? Thanks