You used to be able to tell which yanks had climbed with Brit partners because they used double ropes - would have made the runner placement and rope management much easier and safer too. Cool vid though and great climbing.
Yeah, I've definitely never used double ropes in the desert. Most everything there is a single splitter. We stumbled upon this route and just went for it. We've got a much better gear list for next time though :)
I guess technically this is the first free ascent. The first ascent was an hour earlier when I put in the bolts, but I swung over from an adjacent route and onsighted the top half of the route to put the bolts in.
As a climber with glasses myself, are there routes where you just really want to remove them? I tend to have them off for attempts so I can get my head closer to the wall but you seem to do just fine without it
Hmmm, indeed you are correct on that. Sometimes I get lost in all the nuances of terms. Only the second bolt and anchor was placed on lead. I pendulumed over from an adjacent route then led from the chimney to the top.
The first bolt was because the rock was very soft and breakable, and it is a bad landing if you biff it. We had 4 friends try the route on TR, and all took falls there, so very happy for that. The second bolt was because there's not a great spot for a #8 cam, since your body fills the whole chimney, and it would be a dangerous runnout.
I generally find them cumbersome and in the way (the climbing thong). I only use them for bolting, aiding, or big wall type stuff. For cleaning sport routes, I prefer just a spare alpine draw on the harness as it can be used for so many more things, and serves the same function as the single-use PAS. I don't use a pas for a rappel extension either because I use a mega-jul or simul rappel with the grigri.
Small point of course, and you may have cleaned up after the video was made, but I find it a responsible practice to carry a hand brush to clean off the rock dust after drilling. They're cheap and have holes in the handle to tie off. A buddy of mine goes so far as to carry a small Makita blower that does wonders for hole cleaning and takes care of the rock dust super easily. I think tidying up makes for a cleaner aesthetic, and personally my compulsive mind could never be settled red pointing a route until is was dust-free. Camouflaged hardware also doesn't seem to matter as much if there's white streaks of dust that are often noticeably visible even from a ways off. Seeing as how that canyon is a popular hiking zone with long-time locals and tourists alike, it makes for better user group relations to keep things clean and tidy when installing hardware that some folks may have a hard time understanding. I would say this is true in any setting, but particularly in places like the Moab and Indian Creek environs that are so popular. Clean ethics are responsible usership, and I personally think that those with a visible public presence that they promote through platforms like this and social media have a responsibility to represent best practices. This may seem like a small or even nit-pickish issue, but as someone who spent decades in the area I've got strong feelings about responsible route development. The Moab area is in need of stewards who prioritize respect for the landscape and for other user groups.
I am totally with that, 100%. I have that little makita blower, which is amazing. But also this smaller pocket sized blower I got off HowNot2 that works amazingly for that. I’m also a huge proponent of camoflauging hardware. We actually requested and received a grant from the Access Fund for bolt camoflauging for lower visual impact. It was their first time having a request for that. Hopefully not their last!
Amazing climb! Looks really fun! Just spraying advise just ignore it if you feel like it: Blue 3 at 11:00 is definitely overcammed. You would be safer with a 2 there. Same goes for the nr 2 below.
I love placing cams super snug when there's a consequence for walking. I've still never gotten a cam stuck in 16 years of avid trad climbing. Additionally, it has been proven consistently that overcammed cams are not more likely to pull out, just more likely to get stuck, which isn't a problem when the crack opens up right above it.
@@EvanWisheropp Right you lose like 10 percent but that is nothing really. only real risk is multi pitch where you might need it later on another pitch. oh and looking silly but we are finding the hardest way up to the top of things so we are always looking pretty silly )
Why would you put a bolt there? Why not use a micro cam? Micro nut maybe? Maybe just do two moves before you place something? Your third handhold is a "bomber finger lock" which I'm sure will take a .3/.4 depending on your fingers. Seems out of character for the creek.
The first bolt? Just doesn't take any gear at all, plus the rock is really chossy in the first 8 feet. This isn't the creek, but you'll find occasional bolts protecting unprotectable sections there too.
99.9% of the time here in the desert, you’re following a singular crack line. So when you walk up to an unclimbed wall, you’re not really expecting to need double ropes. I’d still just use a single rope though since there was no rope drag and I’m not worried about any pieces getting pulled outward.
@@paulmitchell5349 Hahaha! No it does not. So you wouldn't call it a sport route because it only has two bolts in 100', and it's not a trad route because it has two bolts amongst the dozen or so pieces of natural pro. Now then what do you call it?
commentary kept it engaging! and that drone footage is sick
My buddy Rick did a great job flying :)
Didn't notice it was drone footage till I peeped down at ur comment. What a great tool to film a straight vertical climb like this!
Liked seeing the whole thing with no cuts and a great angle. Gives a better feeling on how challenging a lead actually is.
Cool route, great video. I really enjoy your take on story telling, it does a great job of capturing your process in new routing.
I appreciate that, glad you enjoyed it!
That was rad. I was cringing when it turned to off width and just reminded me about how brutal climbing off width is. Big props for such a cool route
Does it really count as offwidth if you can fit your butt inside?
Cool climb, perfect drone shot, and excellent commentary. Great and simple video. Props.
Thank you, I was wondering how the commentary would go over.. Much appreciated!
WOW! One of the best climbing videos I have seen in a while. I absolutely love the format (drone, text commentary, music). Congrats
Thank you, very kind of you. I’m very thankful for your feedback.
Wow that was an amazing route! I'll keep that in my back pocket as my trad skills improve.
Hahaha I love your facial interactions with the camera! Great video and even greater looking climb! I love a good chimney
Beautiful. Loved your commentary.
man! these videos you make are amazing. I am hooked. I just want to come over there and climb with you. ( from greece)
Come on out any time!!!
Enjoyed very much. Trad for the win.
Absolutely amazing route!
You're up next!!
@@EvanWisheropp I will be there soon! Can't Wait!!
Been waiting for this
Beautiful Push. Congrats.
So rad! Nice work
Sweet video..sweet climb!
Makes me want to plan a road trip!
got a sub from me bro. I am a para climber and I am loving off width stuff right now It feels like it almost evens the playing field.
I agree that it really does. I don't know too much about para, seems like a whole different struggle
Really well done.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!
这岩壁太漂亮了，大自然对攀岩者的恩赐！
Liked the music and drone😅
ces quoi ce roche friable Woua bravo un grand respect , il monte un tiramisu ou quoi , ok je sort
That was really cool! :)
Nice send.. man u laced that puppy :-)
I would have placed so much more haha
Awesome climb
Thanks for sharing!
The route keeps getting better and better! But no tape gloves, so must not be Moab. Probably a gym route
😂😂😂 Yessssss lol
What's the correlation with Moab and tape gloves? Is the rock sharp, does it leave a lot of red pigment?
nice!
You used to be able to tell which yanks had climbed with Brit partners because they used double ropes - would have made the runner placement and rope management much easier and safer too. Cool vid though and great climbing.
Yeah, I've definitely never used double ropes in the desert. Most everything there is a single splitter. We stumbled upon this route and just went for it. We've got a much better gear list for next time though :)
wicked, what’s the name?
bro that is siiick af, I wish I can try crack climbing and learn its intricates
A-MAZ-ING!!
Wow, looks like a really fun and unique pitch! Would love to go try this, where's it at? Near Moab?
Yep right next to Moab, I just put it on Mountain Project, it should pop up in Day Canyon
Looks like a fantastic climb! When will it be on mtn project? I'm inspired to climb it
I just got it put up on MP :) Lady Pants, Day Canyon
Long Canyon area, Evan? I've climbed a few things there. Nice looking new route!
Pretty darn close! Day Canyon :)
I thought "first ascent" meant establishing a new route that has never been climbed?
I guess technically this is the first free ascent. The first ascent was an hour earlier when I put in the bolts, but I swung over from an adjacent route and onsighted the top half of the route to put the bolts in.
sickkkk!!!!
Why is there a bolt right there.
For safety.
As a climber with glasses myself, are there routes where you just really want to remove them?
I tend to have them off for attempts so I can get my head closer to the wall but you seem to do just fine without it
In trad style bolts are placed on lead.
Hmmm, indeed you are correct on that. Sometimes I get lost in all the nuances of terms. Only the second bolt and anchor was placed on lead. I pendulumed over from an adjacent route then led from the chimney to the top.
Why did you put the bolt there?
The first bolt was because the rock was very soft and breakable, and it is a bad landing if you biff it. We had 4 friends try the route on TR, and all took falls there, so very happy for that. The second bolt was because there's not a great spot for a #8 cam, since your body fills the whole chimney, and it would be a dangerous runnout.
Sweet looking line.
Climbed smooth.
Can I ask who makes that helmet?
This is one of the Black Diamond MIPS helmets. They’re super safe, so a very good friend bought this one for me :)
Looks cool, but I`d never climb it😅
What makes you say you are not a PAs fan?
I generally find them cumbersome and in the way (the climbing thong). I only use them for bolting, aiding, or big wall type stuff. For cleaning sport routes, I prefer just a spare alpine draw on the harness as it can be used for so many more things, and serves the same function as the single-use PAS. I don't use a pas for a rappel extension either because I use a mega-jul or simul rappel with the grigri.
Small point of course, and you may have cleaned up after the video was made, but I find it a responsible practice to carry a hand brush to clean off the rock dust after drilling. They're cheap and have holes in the handle to tie off. A buddy of mine goes so far as to carry a small Makita blower that does wonders for hole cleaning and takes care of the rock dust super easily. I think tidying up makes for a cleaner aesthetic, and personally my compulsive mind could never be settled red pointing a route until is was dust-free. Camouflaged hardware also doesn't seem to matter as much if there's white streaks of dust that are often noticeably visible even from a ways off. Seeing as how that canyon is a popular hiking zone with long-time locals and tourists alike, it makes for better user group relations to keep things clean and tidy when installing hardware that some folks may have a hard time understanding. I would say this is true in any setting, but particularly in places like the Moab and Indian Creek environs that are so popular. Clean ethics are responsible usership, and I personally think that those with a visible public presence that they promote through platforms like this and social media have a responsibility to represent best practices. This may seem like a small or even nit-pickish issue, but as someone who spent decades in the area I've got strong feelings about responsible route development. The Moab area is in need of stewards who prioritize respect for the landscape and for other user groups.
I am totally with that, 100%. I have that little makita blower, which is amazing. But also this smaller pocket sized blower I got off HowNot2 that works amazingly for that. I’m also a huge proponent of camoflauging hardware. We actually requested and received a grant from the Access Fund for bolt camoflauging for lower visual impact. It was their first time having a request for that. Hopefully not their last!
Got wet hands.
Amazing climb! Looks really fun!
Just spraying advise just ignore it if you feel like it: Blue 3 at 11:00 is definitely overcammed. You would be safer with a 2 there. Same goes for the nr 2 below.
I love placing cams super snug when there's a consequence for walking. I've still never gotten a cam stuck in 16 years of avid trad climbing. Additionally, it has been proven consistently that overcammed cams are not more likely to pull out, just more likely to get stuck, which isn't a problem when the crack opens up right above it.
@@EvanWisheropp Right you lose like 10 percent but that is nothing really. only real risk is multi pitch where you might need it later on another pitch. oh and looking silly but we are finding the hardest way up to the top of things so we are always looking pretty silly )
Why would you put a bolt there? Why not use a micro cam? Micro nut maybe? Maybe just do two moves before you place something? Your third handhold is a "bomber finger lock" which I'm sure will take a .3/.4 depending on your fingers. Seems out of character for the creek.
The first bolt? Just doesn't take any gear at all, plus the rock is really chossy in the first 8 feet. This isn't the creek, but you'll find occasional bolts protecting unprotectable sections there too.
Funny how Americans don’t understand double rope technique. So much safer and faster.
sometimes, sometimes not, depending on what you are doing. here prob yes lol
Funny how some climbers are Caren’s
99.9% of the time here in the desert, you’re following a singular crack line. So when you walk up to an unclimbed wall, you’re not really expecting to need double ropes. I’d still just use a single rope though since there was no rope drag and I’m not worried about any pieces getting pulled outward.
Trad means ZERO BOLTS. Otherwise, nice route.
If its 1m from ground it is not counted
I'd say not always, but that's a fair point. IMO Traditional climbing is the style, not just the protection.
@@paulmitchell5349 Hahaha! No it does not. So you wouldn't call it a sport route because it only has two bolts in 100', and it's not a trad route because it has two bolts amongst the dozen or so pieces of natural pro. Now then what do you call it?
@@mikesnyder6358 it's called mix
no it does not lol even if bolts if they are not around crux it might not even be much of a mixed route.
such a unique and cool looking climbing!!!