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Evan Wisheropp
Приєднався 6 лип 2013
Trad Climbing First Ascent in Moab, UT
Tune in and watch a somewhat uncut video of the first ascent of "Lady Pants" 5.11-. I thought we'd try something different and add in some commentary text regarding my thought process during the climb. I hope you enjoy!
There is an adjacent route, from which I was able to swing over and lead the last little bit of the climb to install a lead bolt and anchors. This enabled me to lower off and install the first bolt. This lap is the first lead of the route.
There is an adjacent route, from which I was able to swing over and lead the last little bit of the climb to install a lead bolt and anchors. This enabled me to lower off and install the first bolt. This lap is the first lead of the route.
Переглядів: 27 421
Відео
Offwidth, Killer.
Переглядів 2,3 тис.Місяць тому
Tune in this Halloween and watch as this obsessive offwidth climber trains his friends in this spooky form of climbing, hoping to create the perfect offwidth partner.
Looking Glass Rock 5.4 -- Moab
Переглядів 5532 місяці тому
I finally edited the first video I've filmed for this channel way back when. I hope you don't mind the shaky camera and enjoy watching my wife and aunt enjoy this wonderful three pitch climb.
Gnarly Moab OFFWIDTH - Exit Wound 5.12
Переглядів 3 тис.2 місяці тому
In part one, we saw Evan and Mary sending Pitch 2, "Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12-), in part two here Mary (@tradprincess) and Sam (@adventuresam) battle through the gnarly Pitch 4 offwidth roof.
King Salmon 5.12 - Promontory, CA
Переглядів 9023 місяці тому
Another new ultra-classic line at Promontory. The route is long and pumpy, but with three good rests. Fellow locals asked for it to be well-bolted to make the line more comfortable and convenient, and so it is! With a good soft catch, skipping clips is actually a-ok on this one! Get out there an enjoy!!
Shiny bolts are OVERRATED! - Camoflauging climbing bolts
Переглядів 7 тис.3 місяці тому
Not everyone is a great fan of bolts, and well it does make sense... Some walls sparkle in the sunlight with shiny bolts. Well, we see that and understand. With help from a grant from the Access Fund, we've been painting/camoflauging bolts to help them blend nicely into the rock. Often times, camoflauged bolts are nearly impossible to see, unless you are actively looking for them. This way, we ...
When Pigs Fly 5.11b - Promontory, CA
Переглядів 6483 місяці тому
Here's a new route we just bolted right above the tide pools. It requires either a really good low tide or really flat seas (no swell is swell). The name is indicative to how often you'll be able to climb this wonderful route. I was excited to lead the route, so I placed temporary removable bolts (concrete screws). We missed low tide by a few hours, but it was just fine. I removed the temporary...
Climbing "Great White" 5.12b at Promontory
Переглядів 1,3 тис.4 місяці тому
Hey friends, here's a beta video of Great White at Promontory. Sorry for the low production value on this one, but locals hopping to get on the route should enjoy it.
Bolting a Sport Route with Titanium Glue-ins
Переглядів 10 тис.4 місяці тому
This has been a real tricky project to bolt. Lots of complications and road blocks, but I'm glad to finally be able to record part of the process of bolting with glue-ins is like. I've bolted and rebolted 105 routes with glue-ins, totaling 829 glue-ins, and gotten quite efficient, but still there are plenty of small efficiency errors. I've left them in to give a good glimpse of a real bolting m...
Pure Vessel, V3 DWS
Переглядів 6554 місяці тому
Pure Vessel is a super classic Deep Water Solo (DWS) at Footsteps Rock. As far as we know, my buddy Kyle Fisher was the first to climb it. Since then, it feels crazy not to do a lap or ten every time we are there.
The Road To THE CLEAVER (5.13b) - Moab's Brutal New Offwidth
Переглядів 28 тис.7 місяців тому
This is the story of my journey to send The Cleaver; a brutal 5.13 offwidth roof in Moab. There were ups, downs, and plenty of challenges. Hopefully, it'll inspire you to get out and try something that pushes your limits. Chapters: 00:00 - Opening scene 00:37 - Intro/Background 02:09 - Mary’s experience with The Cleaver 03:10 - First ascent with Sam Foreman 03:26 - Think Tank Rotation 180 50L 0...
Revolutionary New Climbing Guidebook
Переглядів 2,7 тис.8 місяців тому
Watch as we show off this revolutionary, NEW climbing guidebook design. This new idea is sure to change climbing guidebooks FOREVER. We are honored to partner on this guide with the one and only, Ethan Pringle. Download your copy this fall! Edit: If you couldn't tell by the posting date, the immense sarcasm, or the end of the video, this was an April Fools video.
"Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12a) - Epic New Spooky Offwidth w/ Trad Princess
Переглядів 29 тис.8 місяців тому
I found this spectacular, and spectacularly spooky splitter and knew we had an ephemeral classic on our hands. Watch as Evan Wisheropp makes a first ascent and Mary Eden follows it up quickly with the second ascent. After the crux second pitch, you can continue for two more pitches, culminating in a 20' 5.12 roof offwidth pitch landing you on the rim. The second pitch flake "feels" solid, but w...
Offwidth Climbing Fanatic Teaches His Friends To Do Crack
Переглядів 1,2 тис.9 місяців тому
Far North Climbing Gym has a campus board for normal people, but hidden behind that campus board is an unintended offwidth roof that's great for training. Watch as I share the fine "art" of offwidth roof climbing with some very good friends.
"Prom Date" (5.12b/c) at Promontory, California
Переглядів 5454 роки тому
"Prom Date" (5.12b/c) at Promontory, California
Super sick route!!
You used to be able to tell which yanks had climbed with Brit partners because they used double ropes - would have made the runner placement and rope management much easier and safer too. Cool vid though and great climbing.
Yeah, I've definitely never used double ropes in the desert. Most everything there is a single splitter. We stumbled upon this route and just went for it. We've got a much better gear list for next time though :)
Got wet hands.
Why would you put a bolt there? Why not use a micro cam? Micro nut maybe? Maybe just do two moves before you place something? Your third handhold is a "bomber finger lock" which I'm sure will take a .3/.4 depending on your fingers. Seems out of character for the creek.
The first bolt? Just doesn't take any gear at all, plus the rock is really chossy in the first 8 feet. This isn't the creek, but you'll find occasional bolts protecting unprotectable sections there too.
Evan! Excellent job having the vision for this route 🤙🏻
Thanks, I've been eying it for 10 years lol. Just glad I had the height!
Grade inversely proportional to climber's height.
Makes me want to plan a road trip!
Absolutely amazing route!
You're up next!!
@@EvanWisheropp I will be there soon! Can't Wait!!
Beautiful Push. Congrats.
Liked seeing the whole thing with no cuts and a great angle. Gives a better feeling on how challenging a lead actually is.
The route keeps getting better and better! But no tape gloves, so must not be Moab. Probably a gym route
😂😂😂 Yessssss lol
What's the correlation with Moab and tape gloves? Is the rock sharp, does it leave a lot of red pigment?
nice!
such a unique and cool looking climbing!!!
A-MAZ-ING!!
So rad! Nice work
这岩壁太漂亮了，大自然对攀岩者的恩赐！
Sweet video..sweet climb!
should have casted me for your one legged climber but other then that this is top notch cinematic delicacy
🤣🤣
got a sub from me bro. I am a para climber and I am loving off width stuff right now It feels like it almost evens the playing field.
I agree that it really does. I don't know too much about para, seems like a whole different struggle
Nice send.. man u laced that puppy :-)
I would have placed so much more haha
Enjoyed very much. Trad for the win.
Thanks for sharing!
Long Canyon area, Evan? I've climbed a few things there. Nice looking new route!
Pretty darn close! Day Canyon :)
Hahaha I love your facial interactions with the camera! Great video and even greater looking climb! I love a good chimney
In trad style bolts are placed on lead.
Hmmm, indeed you are correct on that. Sometimes I get lost in all the nuances of terms. Only the second bolt and anchor was placed on lead. I pendulumed over from an adjacent route then led from the chimney to the top.
Cool climb, perfect drone shot, and excellent commentary. Great and simple video. Props.
Thank you, I was wondering how the commentary would go over.. Much appreciated!
WOW! One of the best climbing videos I have seen in a while. I absolutely love the format (drone, text commentary, music). Congrats
Thank you, very kind of you. I’m very thankful for your feedback.
Small point of course, and you may have cleaned up after the video was made, but I find it a responsible practice to carry a hand brush to clean off the rock dust after drilling. They're cheap and have holes in the handle to tie off. A buddy of mine goes so far as to carry a small Makita blower that does wonders for hole cleaning and takes care of the rock dust super easily. I think tidying up makes for a cleaner aesthetic, and personally my compulsive mind could never be settled red pointing a route until is was dust-free. Camouflaged hardware also doesn't seem to matter as much if there's white streaks of dust that are often noticeably visible even from a ways off. Seeing as how that canyon is a popular hiking zone with long-time locals and tourists alike, it makes for better user group relations to keep things clean and tidy when installing hardware that some folks may have a hard time understanding. I would say this is true in any setting, but particularly in places like the Moab and Indian Creek environs that are so popular. Clean ethics are responsible usership, and I personally think that those with a visible public presence that they promote through platforms like this and social media have a responsibility to represent best practices. This may seem like a small or even nit-pickish issue, but as someone who spent decades in the area I've got strong feelings about responsible route development. The Moab area is in need of stewards who prioritize respect for the landscape and for other user groups.
I am totally with that, 100%. I have that little makita blower, which is amazing. But also this smaller pocket sized blower I got off HowNot2 that works amazingly for that. I’m also a huge proponent of camoflauging hardware. We actually requested and received a grant from the Access Fund for bolt camoflauging for lower visual impact. It was their first time having a request for that. Hopefully not their last!
That was rad. I was cringing when it turned to off width and just reminded me about how brutal climbing off width is. Big props for such a cool route
Does it really count as offwidth if you can fit your butt inside?
I thought "first ascent" meant establishing a new route that has never been climbed?
I guess technically this is the first free ascent. The first ascent was an hour earlier when I put in the bolts, but I swung over from an adjacent route and onsighted the top half of the route to put the bolts in.
I’m not a climber so forgive the dumb question: does painting the bolts make it harder to visually assess their condition/level of wear and tear?
Why is there a bolt right there.
For safety.
What makes you say you are not a PAs fan?
I generally find them cumbersome and in the way (the climbing thong). I only use them for bolting, aiding, or big wall type stuff. For cleaning sport routes, I prefer just a spare alpine draw on the harness as it can be used for so many more things, and serves the same function as the single-use PAS. I don't use a pas for a rappel extension either because I use a mega-jul or simul rappel with the grigri.
Was watching and just made the connection. I’m the Patrick’s point guide guy. Thought the name was familiar.
Hey!!! That's me :) Ocean Overhang at PP was my training ground for this climb
ces quoi ce roche friable Woua bravo un grand respect , il monte un tiramisu ou quoi , ok je sort
wicked, what’s the name?
Sweet looking line. Climbed smooth. Can I ask who makes that helmet?
This is one of the Black Diamond MIPS helmets. They’re super safe, so a very good friend bought this one for me :)
Beautiful. Loved your commentary.
sickkkk!!!!
Funny how Americans don’t understand double rope technique. So much safer and faster.
sometimes, sometimes not, depending on what you are doing. here prob yes lol
Funny how some climbers are Caren’s
99.9% of the time here in the desert, you’re following a singular crack line. So when you walk up to an unclimbed wall, you’re not really expecting to need double ropes. I’d still just use a single rope though since there was no rope drag and I’m not worried about any pieces getting pulled outward.
Been waiting for this
Amazing climb! Looks really fun! Just spraying advise just ignore it if you feel like it: Blue 3 at 11:00 is definitely overcammed. You would be safer with a 2 there. Same goes for the nr 2 below.
I love placing cams super snug when there's a consequence for walking. I've still never gotten a cam stuck in 16 years of avid trad climbing. Additionally, it has been proven consistently that overcammed cams are not more likely to pull out, just more likely to get stuck, which isn't a problem when the crack opens up right above it.
@@EvanWisheropp Right you lose like 10 percent but that is nothing really. only real risk is multi pitch where you might need it later on another pitch. oh and looking silly but we are finding the hardest way up to the top of things so we are always looking pretty silly )
Why did you put the bolt there?
The first bolt was because the rock was very soft and breakable, and it is a bad landing if you biff it. We had 4 friends try the route on TR, and all took falls there, so very happy for that. The second bolt was because there's not a great spot for a #8 cam, since your body fills the whole chimney, and it would be a dangerous runnout.
Trad means ZERO BOLTS. Otherwise, nice route.
If its 1m from ground it is not counted
I'd say not always, but that's a fair point. IMO Traditional climbing is the style, not just the protection.
@@paulmitchell5349 Hahaha! No it does not. So you wouldn't call it a sport route because it only has two bolts in 100', and it's not a trad route because it has two bolts amongst the dozen or so pieces of natural pro. Now then what do you call it?
@@mikesnyder6358 it's called mix
no it does not lol even if bolts if they are not around crux it might not even be much of a mixed route.
Awesome climb
Really well done.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!
Looks like a fantastic climb! When will it be on mtn project? I'm inspired to climb it
I just got it put up on MP :) Lady Pants, Day Canyon
commentary kept it engaging! and that drone footage is sick
My buddy Rick did a great job flying :)
Didn't notice it was drone footage till I peeped down at ur comment. What a great tool to film a straight vertical climb like this!
Looks cool, but I`d never climb it😅
Cool route, great video. I really enjoy your take on story telling, it does a great job of capturing your process in new routing.
I appreciate that, glad you enjoyed it!